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HIS BOOK contains 677 pages, 24 of which will be found 
in the front, numbered in Roman characters. The work 
is divided into twenty tours and seventy-one chapters, and 
embraces twenty-five countries ! A table of contents and an index 
pf 146 illustrations in front, and a general index of subjects in 
the last part of the book, makes it of unusual convenience. 
As a work of both travels and history, it is full of interest, 
and the information given upon a vast number of subjects, 
makes it invaluable as a book for reference. It is meeting with 
rapid sale, and receiving the commendation of the Clergy, the 
Press, and Professors in Institutions of learning. It should be 
in every home and every Library. - 



Digitized by the Internet Archive 
in 2011 with funding from 
The Library of Congress 



http://www.archive.org/details/tenyearstravelarOOwell 




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TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 










Is 



— OR — 

Fi'oni Land to Land, Igle to Igle and j&a to $ea, 

EMBRACING 

TWENTY TOURS - 

In England, Scotland, Ireland, France, Prussia, Belgium, Denmark, 

Sweden, Poland, Switzerland, Austria, Italy, Greece, Russia, 

Turkey, Holy Land, Syria, Egypt, India, Singapore, 

Java, Australia, South America, Central America, 

Sandwich Islands and North America. 



TRAVELS AND HISTORY. 



Over One Hundred ind Forty Choice Illustrations. 



—BY— , / 

MRS. SAKAH FURNAS WELLS, M. D., 

Formerly Of The Women's Medical College, New York. 



INTRODUCTION BY -. ^ q C» -{£&, 

REV. E. J. SCOTT, Editor of The Morning s/ar. 



WEST MILTON, OHIO. 

MORNING STAR PUBLISHING CO. 

1885. 



Entered According to Act of Congress, in the Year 1885, by 

E. J. SCOTT, 

In the Oiriee of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. 



/ 



u 



fa 

MY HUSBAND 1 
AND COMPANION IN 
TRAVEL ; TO MY MANY KINDRED 
FRIENDS, SCATTERED THROUGHOUT THE LAND',' 
TO 
MY STUDENTS, CLASS- 
MATES AND FELLOW TEACHERS 
WITH WHOM I HAVE SPENT HAPPY 
DAYS, AND TO WHOM MY HEART IS ATTACHED: 
TO 
MINISTERS OF THE GOS- 
PEL, MISSIONARIES AND CHRISTIAN 
WORKERS,WHO HAVE GIVEN ME SYMPATHY 
AND ENCOURAGEMENT IN THE JOURNEY OF LIFE! 
TO 
MY FRIENDS IN 
THE MEDICAL PROFES- 
SION, AND TO ALL LOVERS 
OF HISTORY AND TRAVEL. THIS 
VOLUME IS AFFECTIONATELY DEDICA- - 
TED, WITH THE DESIRE THAT WHEN LIFE'S 
JOURNEYINGS BELOW ARE ENDED, WE MAY 
MEET ON THE SHORES OF THE HEAVENLY LAND.' 



PREFACE. 



\ ."Vl'lIEX I entered un<m my first tours through Europe, I Was 
/ VrPf- 
vvf-ilvM actuated only by the laudable desire to advance the interests 

l - cfiW-J of the Institution with which I was then connected ; and 

the dissemination of a knowledge of the science of medicine among my 

own sex. At that time I had no thought of becoming a great traveler, 

much less of giving this volume to the public. But, as I now believe, 

the hand nf a kind Providence has led me through the years, from 

nation to nation and land to land, until I have seen much of the world 

and my feet have compassed the earth. When contemplating the 

golden opportunities which I have had, and the marvelous scenes which 

I have witnessed. I have ever felt an earnest desire to give to others the 

enjoyments and advantages of my experience. Thus I have been led to 

deliver various lectures, describing the places I have visited, and the 

treasures of the ancient and modern world, which I have seen. From 

the churches of principal cities from the Atlantic to the Pacific, and 

from the North to the South, — from every place where my lectures have 

been delivered, the urgent request has been made for their publica* 

tion in book form. In England, where I spent the past year, I met 

with the same kind reception and request. This public approval 

and esteem has my due appreciation, and with a desire to give to others 

the benefit of my travels in a more perfect and comprehensive manner 

than I have been able to do by oral discourses, I now offer this volume 

to the public. 

In obtaining the information herein given, risks have been made, and 

dangers encountered; but neither pestilence, famine, war, earthquakes, 

savage tribes, nor venemous reptiles have deterred, or turned aside from 

my purpose. In searching after knowledge, I have met and diligently 

studied the various ranks and phases of life, from the humblest peasant 

and most deluded pagan, to the highest and most civilized in the 

mansions and palaces of millionaires and kings, queens and princes. In 

my travels and researches, I have been accompanied by my husband, 



vi PREFACE. 

Dr. Rufus G. Wells, to whom I am indebted for many advantages, 
especially in gaining favorable reception by kings and princes, and for 
our residence in their palaces. 

In preparing this work, it has been my aim to give a true presentation 
and history of the countries and places visited, and the experience 
gained, so far as my limited space would allow. I have endeavored to 
select from my stores that which I believed would most interest and 
benefit the reader. For confirmation of statements, and the verification 
of dates and measurements, reference has been had to the best libraries 
of history and travel in this country, and to the British Museum Library 
of London. 

In the work of reviewing and publishing, I acknowledge the special 
care and kindness and valuable assistance of Rev. E. J. Scott, President 
of the Morning Star Publishing Company. It has been our constant 
desire to make the work pure in sentiment and elevating in tone, as 
well as instructive ; desiring that the reader may gather from its pages 
new truth to be added to his store of knowledge, and thereby be inspired 
to a higher and nobler life. Feeling that I have been specially guided 
and preserved from dangers seen and unseen, and the recipient of 
abundant mercies, enabling me to complete the task, I uplift n\y heart 
and voice in grateful praise to our Heavenly Father. And now, as I 
send forth my book to the world, I pray that God may send blessings 
henceforth upon the writing, even as He has upon the writer. 

Sarah Furnas Wells. 



CONTENTS, 



FIRST TOUR— EUROPE. 



CHAPTER I. 

Ocean Voyage — Among the Icebergs — A Storm at Sea — A Terrible 
Disaster — First Sight of Land — Arrival at Glasglow — Railway 
Novelties — From Scotland to Vienna 1 

CHAPTER II. 

Wonders oi Vienna — Excursion to Italy — Crossing the Alps — ■ 
Venice and its Novelties — Festival on the Water — Journeyings 
in Italy — View of the Eternal City — Visit to the Catacombs 9 

CHAPTER III. 

The Campagna — Naples and its Beauties — Night View of Vesuvius 
— Sight-seeing — An Attempt at Robbery — Ascent of Vesuvius 
— Its Wonderful Eruptions — The Buried Cities 24 

CHAPTER IV. 

« 

Mont Cenis and its Railway — Difficulties in Travel — Paris After 
the Siege — Dublin — Edinburg — Monument of Sir Walter Scott 
— Second Voyage Across the Atlantic — Our Captain Lost at 
Sea — Again in New York 36 



SECOND TOUR— EUROPE. 



CHAPTER I. 

Muller's Work of Faith — One Day in Bristol — Grandeur of Paris 

— Column Vendome — Cathedral of Notre Dame 45 



viii CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER II. 
The Pantheon— Church of the Madeleine — National Burying 
Ground — Pick-pocket Disappointed — Easter and its Festivals 
— Gobelin's Cloth ... 52 

CHAPTER III. 

In Northern Waters — Sunny Italy — Lingering Twilight — Sights in 
Denmark — Difficulties of Passpons — A Drunkard's Terrible 
Fate— The Drosky and Driver — The Light House— A Light in 
the Window 57 



THIRD TOUR— EUROPE. 



CHAPTER I . 
A Ride Through France — Mountain .Scenery— Geneva — Again in 
France— Along the Mediterranean Sea — Marseilles — Nic — A 
Favorite Winter Resort — Genoa — A City of Palaces — Pisa — 
Leaning Tower 67 

CHAPTER II. 
Florence — Rome and its Wonders — St. Peter's Cathedral — Bones 
of the Apostles St. Peter's Chair — Palace of the Vatican — 
Pope in Procession — Noted Churches — Venerated Stairway — 
Mamertine Prisons — Bambino — The Pantheon — Colosseum... 73 

CHAPTER III. 
Bologna — Venice — Cathedral of St. Mark — Bridge of Sighs — The 
Gloomy Prison — Abhorrence of Romanism — Churches and 
the Confession Box — A Glittering Girdle 87 

CHAPTER IV. 

Leaving Venice — Grecian Islands — Greek Brigands — In the Arch- 
ipelago — Constantinople — Beauties of the Bosphorus — Odessa 
— Kief — Suhterranean Homes — Pilgrims — Russian Wedding — 
Berlin- -Dresden — Cremation of Bodies — Leipsic and Ham- 
burg 92 



FOURTH TOUR— PALESTINE. 



CHAPTER I. 

Glaciers of Switzerland — Mont Cenis Tunnel — Cathedral of Milan 
— A Royal Festival — Mementoes From a King's Dinner — Suez 
Canal — A Serious Incident — First View of the Holv Land 105 



CONTENTS. ix 

CHAPTER If. 
Landing at Jaffa— The Housetop Where Peter Prayed — The Rose 
of Sharon — Tower of Forty — A View From the Tower — Off <o 
the Holy City — Entrance of Jerusalem 115 

CHAPTER III. 

Damascus Gate — Church of the Holy Sepulcher — Other Holy 
Places — Mount Moriah — The Ancient Temple— Mosque of 
Omar — The Sacred Rock — Praying Before the Mosque — An 
Ancient Church — Solomon's Stables — Wailing Place of the 
Tews 123 

CHAPTER IV. 
The Golden Gate — Subterranean Chambers — A Sorrowful Way — 
Pool of Hezekiah — Pool of Bethesda — Pools of Gihon — Pool 
of Siloam- — Sepulcher of David— Place of the Last Supper — 
Ancient and Modern Jerusalem 140 

CHAPTER V. 
Garden of Gethsemane — Tomb of Absalom — Ancient Tombs — 
Mount of Olives — A Visit to Bethany — House of the Sisters 
and Tomb of Lazarus 153 

CHAPTER VI. 
Excursion Across the Country — Tomb of Rachel— Bethlehem — 
Church of the Nativity— Pools of Solomon — Hebron— Excur- 
sion to the Jordon and the Dead Sea— Ancient and Modern 
Jericho— The Sacred Jordan— Pilgrims' Visits— The Dead Sea.. 162 

CHAPTER VII. 

A Horseback Ride to Damascus— Tombs of Prophets and Kings- - 
Last View of Jerusalem— Bethel— On the Border Land— Ruins 
of Shiloh— Valley of Shechem— Joseph's Tomb— Nablus— Mis- 
sionaries— Samaria— Mount Taboi —Nazareth — Syrian Water 
Carriers— Mission School 178 

CHAPTER VIII. 
The Sea of Galilee— Galilee By Moonlight— Tiberias— Prophecy Ful- 
filled—Wayside Fountain— The Jordan Without a Parallel- 
Plains of Bash an -Caravan and Camels— Deserted Towns and 
Cities— Our Capture by the Arabs— Taken to Their Tents— An 
Hour of Awful Suspense— An Arab Encampment— Arabs Set- 
ting up Tents 194 

CHAPTER IX. 

A Village in Bashan— Desolation— Sublime Scene— Volcanic Region 

—Old Roman Road— Pharpar and Abana Rivers— Dam ascus- 
b 



x CONTENTS. 

Damascus History— A Holy City—Saul at Damascus—" Street 
Called Straight "—Old Testament History— Arrival at Damas- 
cus-Life in Damascus— Divan or Reception Room— Mosques- 
Massacre of the Christians— Christian Missions— Roman Cath- 
olics—The Bazaars of Damascus— Commodities of Damascus- 
Gate of St. Thomas— A Lady of Romance— An Adventure at 
Night 210 

CHAPTER X. 

Leaving Damascus— Ruins of Baalbec— Temples of Baalbec— Mod- 
ern Town of Baalbec— Poe/n -Baalbec to Beirut— The Lebanon 
Mountains— Splendid Bouquet— Beirut— Harems in Beirut— 
The Effendi's Servants— Luxuries of Harem Life— Jealousies 
Among the Harem Wives— Women Excluded From Heaven- 
Plurality of Wives and Strange Customs— Bad Fitting Gar- 
ments—Early Marriages and Superstitious Ignorance— Reflec- 
tions 228 



FIFTH TOUR— THE LEVANT. 



CH A.PTER I. 

The Sail from Beirut to Smyrna— Island of Cyprus— Island of 
Rhodes— Statues of Rhodes - Detained by Quarantine— The 
Seven Churches— Smyrna— Ephesus— Temple of Diana— Paul 
at Ephesus. 243 

CHAPTER II. 

From Smyrna to Greece— Among the ''Isles of the Sea"— Athens 
and the Acropolis~One Month at Athens— Greek Costumes- 
Opening of Parliament — Mars' Hill— Paul at Mars' Hill — Ruin- 
ed Temples— Parthenon— Missionaries— Island of Syra— The 

Sirocco— Starting for Constantinople 252 

CHAPTER I'll. 

Constantinople— Mosque of St. Sophia— Sultan Going to Mosque- 
Moslem Cemeteries— Women Weeping at the Tombs— Cros.-ing 
the Bosphorus at Night— The Ramadan and Illuminations- 
Origin of the Crescent— The Sultan's Palace— Visit to the 
Sultan-The Harems 263 



SIXTH TOUR— EGYPT. 



CHAPTER I. 

Second Voyage to Egypt— Alexandria— Pharos— The Land of Egypt 

—House-tops— People— Antiquities— Pompey's Pillar 274 



CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER II. 
Modern Alexandria— The Nile— Overflow of the Mle— The Delta- 
Buildinyrd— Customs— Trees— The Khedive 



CHAPTER III. 
Cairo— Bazaars— Return of Pilgrims— Dancing Dervishes— A Fearful 
Ride— Islamism— Revelations to Mohammed— Teachings of the 
Koran— The Gieen Flag— Propagation— The Christian Religion 291 

CHAPTER IV. 

Mosques of Cairo— Citadel— Mamelukes— Pilgrims to Mecca- 
Strange Funeral Customs— Wedding Peculiarities— Schools- 
Drives in Cairo— Royal Palaces 303 

CHAPTER V. 

Old Cairo— Women Grinding at the Mill— A Land of Flowers- 
Island of Rhoda— Heliopolis— A Visit to the Pyramids— Cheops, 
the Great Pyramid— Gloomy Chambers of Cheops — Theories 
About Founding the Pyramids 314 

CHAPTER VI. 
The Sphinx— Memphis Antiquities— Origin of Heathen Worship 
and Temples— Sand Storm— Land of Goshen— On the Way to 
India— A View of Mount Sinai— Sunset on the Red Sea— Pass- 
ing Scenes— Indian Ocean 323 



SEVENTH TOUR— INDIA, 



CHAPTER I. 

Landing at Bombay— A Bevy of Waiters— The Cave of Elephanta— 
Hindoo Trinity— Rock Temples— In the Mountains and Jungles 
of Central India— Mote Bungalow— Attended by a Dozen Ser- 
vants—The Water Carrier— Feast of the Mohurrum— Fete to 
the Prince of Wales— Guests of the Queen of Bhopal 331 

CHAPTER II. 

City of God— Sacred Ganges— Throwing Children Into the River— 
A Lucrative Business for Priests— Hook Swinging— A Dreadful 
Massacre— Marvelous Palaces and Tombs of Lucknow— Trop- 
ical Vegetation; Palm Trees— Cocoanut Palm and its Uses- 
Manner of Climbing a Palm Tree— The Date and Catechu Palm 
—The Cocoa— Big Trees of India— The Bamboo— The Banyan 
and Other Remarkable Trees— Splendid Roads 343 



xii CONTENTS. 

CHAP TEE III. 

Plants of Commerce— Rice and its Culture— The Production and 
use of Opium— Cotton Fields and Manufactures— Dyes— Tea- 
Sugar Cane— The Rose and the Jessamine— Monsoons— Guests 
of a Kinc— Kristna Lifting a Mountain— Killing a Lizzard God 359 

CHAPTER IV. 

Delta of the Ganges— Animals and Royal Menageries— Tiger Hunt- 
ing—Trapping Wild Animals— The Royal Chase— Elephants and 
Camels— The Birds of India and Their Tricks— The Climbing 
Fish— A Terrible Flood— Garrisoning a City With Crocodiles— 
A Cobra in Bed With a Landlord— Serpent Charmers 369 

CHAPTER V. 

Jeypore and Agra— The Fort and Judgement Hall at Agra— A k bar's 
Throne— The Tombs of the Emperor and the Priest— The Taj 
Mahal, or Finest Tomb in the World— Born in a Desert— Loved 
by a Prince, but Wedded to Another— A Tragic Story— Lost 
Love Regained..... 382 

CHAPTER VI. 

Delhi, the Imperial City of India— Scenes on Broadway— Mosques 
and Mohammedan Worship— Mogul Palace— Peacock Throne— 
A View From the Highest Column in the World— Hotel Life 
at Delhi— A Visit to the Zenanas— Revenge Upon a Wayward 
Son-indaw— Habits anb Pastime of the Harems— A Visit to the 
Home of Fifty Wives— Privacy and Protection of the Women 
—The Mutiny of 1857— An Odd Scene in a Church— A Golden 
Temple— Cashmere Shawls 392 

CHAPTER VI. 
Lahore and Its Fame— A Wonderful Palace— Peril and Rescue- 
Guests of a King— Attractions of Jummoo— Hindoo Prince 
and Spearmen— Cholera and Supers: ition— Prejudice of Hindoo 
Religion— Ladies' Dress and Ornaments— Stage Drive up the 
Himalaya Mountains— A Grand View— Imperial Assemblage at 
Delhi— Gorgeous Tents— Arrival of the Viceroy— The Day of 
Proclamation— Lord Lytton's Throne— Grand Illumination and 
Display of Fire-works 406 

CHAPTER VIII. 

A Journey to the " City of God "—Benares, a Sacred City— The 
Ghats— Tour to Calcutta— Christian Mission at Serampore— 
Opposition to the Work— Human Sacrifices— Calcutta, the Cap- 
ital of British India— The Black Hole of Calcutta— The Ganges 
—India a Remarkable Land 418 



CONTENTS. xiii 

EIGHTH TOUK— JAVA. 



CHAPTER 1. 

Last View of India— A Garden of Reptiles— Great Banyan Trees- 
Burial of a Young Lady at Sea— Arrival at Penang— One Week 
at Singapore— The Temperature and Beauties of Singapore— A 
Religious Pantomime— From Singapore to Java— Landing and 
Life at Batavia— Seasons and Temperature— Commercial Rela- 
tions and History— General Customs of the Natives— National 
Costumes— Javanese Amusements— Visit to a Wealthy Javan- 
ese Lady 432 

CHAPTER II. 
An Excursion to Buitenzorg— Mountains and Volcanic Eruptions- 
Visit to a Wealthy Tea Estate— Tea Culture— A Thunder Storm 
—Visit to Other Estates— Carried in a Tando— Batavia— Voyage 
Along the Coast— Visit to a Millionaire— Chinese Temple.. 442 

CHAPTER III. 

Visit to the Emperor— Mountain Scenery— The Emperor and His 
. Court— The Emperor's Harem— Great Lizards— Beauties of 
Rural Homes— Trees and Flowers— Traveler's Palm— The 
Deadly Upas 457 



NINTH TOUR— AUSTRALIA. 



CHAPTER I. 

Voyage Fom Java to Australia— Islands and Tropical Seas— Theory 
of the Archipelago— Port Darwin— Pearl Divers— Island of 
New Guinea—Perils of the Sea— First Visit to Sydney— Metrop- 
olis of the South Pacific— History of Melbourne and San 
Francisco Compared 464 

CHAPTER II. 

Delightful Gardens— Reverses of Nature— Dust Storms— Public In- 
stitutions—The Liquor Traffic— Horse Racing— Jeweled Ladies 
—Great Telescope— Agricultural Exposition— Ostrich and Emu 
—The Kangaroo— Return to Sydney— Botanical Gardens— Lyre 
Bird— Anniversary Day 469 



TENTH TOUR— CHILI. 



HAPTER I . 
Forty-three Days on the Pacific— The Albatross— Two Fridays in 
One "Week— Our Landing at Valparaiso— The Andes— Political 



CONTENTS. 

Tnm I ile.*— A Visit to Santiago— Burning of a Jesuit Church- 
Voyage From Chili to Peru— Arica— Great Tidal Wave 475 



ELEVENTH TOUR— PERU. 



CHAPTER I . 
Callao— The Buried Citv— Scenes in the Valley of the Rimac— Span- 
ish Houses— The Climate of Peru— Ladies of Peru— Churches 
and the Tomb of Pizarro— Festivals at Lima— Patron Saint of 
Lima— The Egg Festival— Good Friday and Easter— A Fallen 
Angel 481 

CHAPTER II. 

Plaza de Torus— Exposition Palace and Garden— Funeral Scene of 
Atahualpa— Four Days' Reign of Terror— Treasures— Temnle of 
me Sun 489 

CHAPTER III. 
Ascent of the Andes— Taking the Elevation and Temperature— The 
Highest Iron Bridge in the World— Up Among the Clouds— 
The Scene at Night— Chicla— Valley of the Amazon— Ascent of 
San Cristobal 493 

CHAPTER IV. 
A Dreadful Tiagedy— Exciting Funeral Procession— Threatening 
Scenes at the Cathedral— The Burial— Signs of the Times— The 
War With Chili-Great Earthquake 500 



TWELFH TOUR— OCEAN" VOYAGE AND 
CENTRAL AMREICA. 



CH APTER I. 

Leaving South America— A School of Whales — Crossing the Equa- 
tor the Second Time — Thirteen Volcanoes in One View — The 
Rainy Season — Becalmed — Terrors of a Storm in Tropical Seas 
—A Poem of the Sea 505 

CHAPTER I [ . 
Phosphorescent Lights — Followed by Dolphins and Sharks — Bril- 
liant Sunsets— Mirage— " The Golden Gate" 511 



CONTENTS. xv 

THIRTEENTH TOUR— HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 



CHAPTER I. 

Sailing for Honolulu — Nearing the Hawaiian Islands — A Tropical 
Eden — The Candle Nut Tree— A Native Beverage— Pepper 
Fruit— The Castor Oil Tree— Delights of the Climate— Native 
Dress and Habits— The Devil Fish 516 

CHAPTER II. 

Visit to Queen Emma — Laying ot the Corner Stone of the Royal 
Palace — Environs of Honolulu — The Palior Precipice — Great 
Volcanoes 522 

CHAPTER III. 
Christian Missions — Remarkable Building of a Church — Spread of 
Christianity — Voyage 10 San Francisco— A Man Lost Over- 
board 527 



FOURTEENTH TOUR— CALIFORNIA. 



CHAPTER I . 
Bay of San Francisco— The Metropolis of the West — Golden Gate 
Park — Wonderful Lily — A Salubrious Climate — Chinese Em- 
igration 532 

CHAPTER II. 
The Sacramento River — The Largest Steamboat in the World — The 
City of Sacramento — The Capitol — First Discovery of Gold — 
Cities and Agricultural Items — An Excursion to Los Aneelos 
— The Big Trees — Yosemite Valley — Great Water Falls — Snow 
Shoes — Adventure With a Bear — A Fearful Ride Among the 
Canvons 537 

CHAPTER III. 
Founding the Woman's Medical College — Incorporation Papers — 

Opening Address 547 



FIFTEENTH TOUR— SAN FRANCISCO 
TO NEW YORK. 



CHAPTER I. 

Grandeurs of the Mountains — On the Summit of the Sierra Moun- 
tains — Avalanches and Snow Sheds— Deserts— Connection of 



xvi CONTENTS. 

the Trans-Continental Railways — Salt Lake City — Mormon 
Tabernacle — Tne Great Temple — Zion's Co-operative Mercan- 
tile Establishment — Mormonism — Environs 554 

CHAPTER II. 
Journey to Omaha — Summit of the Rocky Mountains — Prairie 
Doers- -Indian Babies — Omaha — Cyclones — Excursion to Atch- 
son and Kansas Citv — Steamboat Ride Down the Missouri 
River — iSt. Louis — Tour of the World Completed — Exposition 
at Cincinnati and Louisville — Meeting Relatives — A Visit to 
the Old Homestead— Bi-Ceatennial, Philadelphia— Return to 
New York 561 



SIXTEENTH TOUR— THROUGH THE SOUTH, 



CHAPTER I. 

Washington City— The Capitol— Senate Chamber— Library Room- 
Magnificent View of the City— Executive Mansion— Treasury 
Department— Post-Office Department— The Place of Lincoln's 
Assassination— The Observatory 571 

CHAPTER II. 
The Journey Continued to the South— Richmond Virginia— Two 
Weeks at Charleston— Visit to Savannah and Florida— Jackson- 
ville-The Tour Ended at New Orleans 577 



SEVENTEENTH TOUR— NEW ORLEANS 
TO RUSSIA. 



CHAPTER I. 
Ocean Voyage to New York— Nearing the Coast of Florida— In New 
York— Embarked for Russia— Fairly out at Sea— Meditations- 
Sunset on the North Sea 582 

CHAPTER II. 
Difficulties of Travel in Germany— Bremen— Hamburg Items— Ar- 
rival at Lubeck— A Wonderful Clock— Across the Baltic Sea to 
Stockholm— At Abo on the Coast of Finland 588 



EIGHTEENTH TOUR— RUSSIA. 



CHAPTER I. 
Moscow— Passport System— Securing Seats for the Fetes— Com- 
mencement of the Fetes— Coronation Day— The Imperial Party 



CONTENTS. xvii 

in Precession— Opening Coronation Ceremonies— The Crown— 
A Historic Diamond— The Thrones— The Closing Ceremonies- 
Grand Illumination of Moscow at Night 593 

CHAPTER II. 

The Imperial Party in Procession for the Opera— Scenes at the 
Kremlin— A Visit to the Palace of the Czars— Bells of Moscow 
—Czar's Feast for the People— A Shrine of Marvelous Wealth... 600 

CHAPTER III. 

The Imperial Party at St. Petersburg — Items of St. Petersburg — St. 
Isaac's — Russian Worship — Worship in the Greek Church — 
Marriage Ceremonies — Winter Palace 605 



NINETEENTH TOUR— ENGLAND. 



CHAPTER I. 

Departure for England — The Thames — London — Underground 
Railways — The British Museum — The Largest Library in the 
World--Westminsfer Abbey— St. Paul's 610 

CHAPTER II. 

The Tower of London — Crowns and Jewels — British Parliament — 

Opening of Parliament— Bank of England... 616 

CHAPTER III. 

Crystal Palace — Bunyan's Tomb — Temperance Lectures — Jottings 
on Tours in England — Falls of Lodore — Visit to Iron and Steel 
Works— Descent Into a Salt Mine 620 



TWENTIETH TOUR— LONDON TO NEW 
ORLEANS. 



CHAPTER I. 

Object in Returning to my Native Land — Fifth Voyage Across the 
Atlantic — Missionary Service on Board of Ship— Tossed Upon 
the Seas — Two Sabbaths on the Ocean — Landing in New York 
— The International Electrical Exhibition — Continuing the 
Journey — A Quiet Retreat — 626 

CHAPTER II. 

Beginning of a Tour in the South — A Stage Drive — Arrival at Mam- 
moth Cave — Entering the Cave — Awed bv Subterranean Won- 
ders— The Rotunda— The Methodist Church— The Giant's 
Coffin — Strange Illusions in the Star Chamber — Gothic Chapel 
—Bridal Altar— Side Saddle Pit— Bottomless Pit 632 

CH APTER III. 

Continuing the Journey— Arrival at New O-leans — The Ex- 
position Grounds — Exposition Buildings — Marvelous Exhibits 
— Illuminations 639 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 



Adventure Witi- a Grizzlv 545 

Ancient Parchment 317 

Ancient Scroll 185 

Arabs Setting up Tents 208 

Arch of Titus 85 

Athens With the Acropolis 253 

Athenian Costumes 254 

Attacked by Indians 555 

Bambino 82 

Bethlehem 165 

Bread Fruit Tree 519 

Bridge of Sighs 90 

Bunvan's Tomb 621 

Cairo 292 

Camels 203 

Capernaum 199 

Car of Juggernaut 423 

Carob Tree 288 

Catacombs 22 

Cathedral of Milan 108 

Church of the Holv Sepulcher 125 

Church of the Madeleine 53 

Chine-e Temple 455 

Chinese at Worship 449 

Climbing a Palm free 35i 

Colosseum 84 

Constantinople 96 

Court in an Eastern House 312 

Craer of Vesuvius 30 

Damascus Gate 124 

Damascus 214 

Dancing Dervishes 294 

Dead Sea 176 

Divan or Reception Room 220 

Eastern Gate of Damascus 224 

Egyptian Captives 289 

Egyptian Donkey 279 

Fakir on a Bed of Spikes 425 

Feast of the Mohurrum 339 

Fountain and Oratory 452 

Galilee from Tiberias 195 

Galilee by Moonlight 198 



Golden Gate 141 

Government Building 641 

Greek Brigands 93 

Herod's Colonnade at Samaria. 187 

Hindoo Bride 398 

Hindoo Deities..: 333 

Hindoo Princess 342 

Hindoo Prince 410 

Hindoo Spearman 411 

Hindoo Temples 409 

Holy Sepulcher 128 

Hook Swinging in India 345 

Horticultural Hall 642 

Indian Chiefs 564 

Javanese Tando 450 

Jerusalem 121 

Jerusalem, Plan of 131 

Jerusalem. N. E 150 

Juggernaut Idols 424 

Jopua 113 

Jordan at Bet habara 173 

Light House 64 

Lyre Bird 473 

Mai hie Canvon 562 

Mar's Hill..". 256 

Mexican Building 642 

Mexican National Building 643 

Monastery or Convents 166 

Monkey in a Mission Meeting.. 422 
Monument of Sir Waller Scott 41 
Moslems Praying on Ship ... 275 

Moslems at Prayer, No. 1 299 

Moslems at Prayer. No. 2 299 

Moslems at Prayer, No. 3 303 

Mosque of Omar 133 

Mosque of St. Sophia 264 

Mother'- Sacrifice 344 

Mount of Olives 158 

Nazareth 189 

Nile 285 

Obelisk at On 318 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 



xix 



Offering to the Ganges.. 353 

Offering to the Goddess Kali... 427 
Olive Tree in Garden of Geth- 

semane 155 

Oriental Dress— Turkey 272 

Oriental House-top 278 

Pah — Precipice 525 

Pantheon 81 

Parthenon 259 

Pisa 71 

Place de ia Concorde 48 

Plowing in India 360 

Pools of Gihon 145 

Pool of Siloam 146 

Pools of Solomon 169 

Pompey's Pillar 280 

Pope in Procession 79 

Praying Before the Mosque 135 

Pyramids and Island of Rhoda 320 

Road in a Tropical Forest ,. 357 

Rock Temples in India 334 

Scene in the Andes 496 

Scene on the Ganges 420 

Sepulcher, Open and Closed... 179 

Serpent Charmers 380 

Sheik Before His Tent 205 

Sheik Riding Over Men 296 

Shepherds and the Angels 168 

Sleighing in Russia 61 

Smyrna 248 

Spanish Man of War 513 

Sphinx 323 

Stage Driving Trough the Big 

Tree 541 



Statue of Ramese« and Site of 

Memphis 325 

Stone in the Quarry at Baalbec 229 

St. Peter's Cat liedral , 76 

Street Called Straight 218 

Suez Canal Ill 

Sun Rise in the Arctic Regions 591 
Swiss Mountains and Peasant 

Family 68 

Syrian Women Water Carriers 191 

Tea Plant 446 

Temple at Baalbec 230 

Temple of Diana 250 

Temple of the Sun 491 

The ArtGallerv 641 

The Main Building 640 

Tiger Hunting in India 370 

Tomb of Rachel 163 

Tower of Fortv 117 

Traveler's Palm 461 

Tropical Foliage 506 

Tropical Forest 498 

Via Dolorosa 143 

Valley of Sbechem 183 

Wailing Place of the Jews 138 

Water Carrier 337 

Wayside Fountain 200 

Westminster Abbey 613 

Women Grinding Corn 315 

Women Weeping at the Tombs 265 
Worship on Mount Gerizim.... 186 

Yosemite Falls 543 

Zayat or Rest House 451 



INTRODUCTION. 



t^TE ARE aware that some, on reading the title page of 

TTOfyfi this work, may ask, " Why another book of Travels?" 

r4p?H To such a question we answer that we believe there 

are many good and valid reasons, among which we offer the 

following : 

First, At this age, books are an essential requisite for the 
dissemination of knowledge and truth; and books of travel 
have ever been regarded with favor by the intelligent mass of 
the people. They satisfy the desire for something new — some- 
thing that will interest the reader, employ the leisure 
moments, and impart knowledge to the mind. With almost 
every thoughtful person, there is a desire to know more of 
that which lies beyond the line of his or her own observation 
in the great world around them. But all have not the time, 
and means, and strength, and fortitude to gain this knowledge 
by a visit to distant lands, and the author, who speaks from 
extensive experience in travel, relating with ready facility 
that which is of special merit, introduces the reader to 
treasures of knowledge boih interesting and profitable. And 
therefore, as a charming narrative of travel and adventure, 
containing also history and" biography, which makes it doubly 
valuable, this volume is offered to the public in much confi- 
dence. 

Second, Most works of travel have been prepared by those 
who have made but flying visits to the countries of which 
they have written, but the author of this work speaks from an 
experience of nearly fourteen years' constant travel, study and 
research. During this time she has not only gone around the 
world, but all her travels combined would encircle the globe 



xxii INTRODUCTION. 

many times. Through some of the countries mentioned, 
repeated journeys have been made, and in chief cities and at 
places of special interest, days, weeks, and in some places, even 
months were spent. In all her travels and in every place of 
sojourn, the author has been a diligent searcher after knowl- 
edge and truth. Museums, art galleries, antiquities, libraries, 
the physical geography of the country, and the habits and 
customs of the people, have been carefully studied. From all 
these sources a mass of rare and valuable information has been 
gained, and the countries and places seldom visited, and about 
which comparatively little has been written, described in this 
work, make it one of special merit. 

Third, A thorough collegiate education, familiarity with 
foreign languages, and an extensive knowledge of history, 
have been invaluable aids in gathering the contents of this 
work. Another peculiar advantage which opened the way 
to many places of interest not usually accessible to the 
traveler, and to favor among heathen tribes, was a knowledge 
of the science and practice of medicine. This prepared the 
way for admission into the harems and zenanas, where a 
knowledge of the private life of oriental women— around 
which hangs so much of enchantment and mystery — was 
obtained. This was a privilege never granted to one of 
the opposite sex, and which lifted the veil from mystic life in 
many places never before witnessed by any English speaking 
traveler, either man or woman. The reader of this volume is 
thus introduced into new fields of thought and knowledge. 

Fourth, In various parts of the world, the author was the 
guest of kings, queens, and princes, and was everywhere intro- 
duced into the society of the educated and the wealthy. 
This furnished unexampled facilities for gaining reliable 
information , and for becoming familiar with most interesting 
features and customs of life. This can but aid in making the 
work one of peculiar interest and worth. 

Fifth, Another interesting feature of this work is the 
description of a number of great and magnificent gatherings 
of people, which were witnessed by the author in various 
countries. Among them the Coronation of the Czar of Russia 
at Moscow ; the Reception of the Emperor of Austria and 



INTRODUCTION. xxiii 

the King of Italy at Venice ; the Mohammedan Festival 
at Cairo on the return of the pilgrims from Mecca; the 
Funeral Ceremonies of the Ex-President of Peru at Lima. 
South America; and the Imperial Assemblage at Delhi, India, 
where there were present one hundred native kings, one 
hundred thousand soldiers, and a vast company of people 
estimated at one million J 

About three years were occupied among the grandeurs, the 
magnificent edifices, and the archives of learning in Europe. 
A tour was then made through Egypt into Palestine. In that 
land extensive journeys were made, and three months spent 
in careful study and observation. The description of places of 
sacred history, and the travels in that country, will be found 
full of instruction and interest. Here the author was captured 
by the wild Arabs on the plains of Bashan. In Syria, many 
days were occupied in traveling and obtaining information 
concerning places of interest to every Bible reader. From 
Asia Minor, a tour was made into Greece, and then a second 
tour through Egypt where the winter was spent in visiting 
the chief cities, the pyramids, and other places of interest. 
Next, a tour was made to India, where she remained more 
than a year among the wonders of that enchanted land. This 
tour will be found full of facts that can not fail to aston- 
ish and instruct the mind of the reader. From India, the 
journey was continued to Penang and Singapore, and then 
to the Island of Java — the u Queen of the Eastern Archi- 
pelago." A summer was spent on this beautiful island, 
studying its wonders, beauties ind grandeurs — its towering- 
mountains and thundering volcanoes. From Java, the voyage 
was continued to Australia, where nature reverses her seasons, 
and where summer blooms in greatest profusion while snows 
cover our land. Four months were spent at Melbourne, Sydney, 
and other principal cities. An ocean voyage of forty-three 
days was next made to South America. More than one year 
was spent in that country, in principal cities and in other 
interesting fields of thought, during which time an ascent of 
the Ancles was made, the ancient mounds of the Ineas visited, 
ex-presiclent Parclo assassinated, the spirit of revolution became 
rife, and the war between Peru and Chili broke out. A voyage 



xxi v I NTROD UCTION. 

was next made to Central America, on which the Equator 
was crossed the second time, thirteen volcanoes seen at one 
view, and other remarkable things witnessed. From Central 
America the voyage was continued to California. This 
voyage occupied one hundred and three days ! The experience 
of two and one half years in the torrid and south temperate 
zone, is full of instruction and adds much to the merit of the 
book. 

A tour was made from San Francisco to the Hawaiian 
Islands, where four months were spent at various places, and 
amid scenes of remarkable interest, after which the author re- 
turned to San Francisco. About two years were occupied among 
the wonders and beauties of California, and in founding the 
Woman's Medical College. A tour was next made across the 
continent to New York On, this many principal cities 
and places of interest were visited, among which was Salt 
Lake City, where Mormon life became a subject of investiga- 
tion. From New York, a tour was made down the coast to 
Florida, and across the Gulf of Mexico to New Orleans. A 
voyage from New Orleans to Russia, by way of New York, was 
next. On this, her second tour in Russia, the Coronation of 
the Czar was witnessed, and many of the principal cities 
visited. A tour was next made to England, where one year 
was spent in delivering public lectures, and in extensive travel. 
This completed a fifth tour through that country, and altogether 
about four years in England and various countries of Europe. 
A fifth voyage was then made across the Atlantic, on a return 
to the United States. From New York, another tour was made 
through the Central States to Mammoth Cave, Kentucky ; and 
to the World's Exposition at New Orleans. This closes the 
twentieth tour of this work, making nearly fourteen years of 
travel, study and research, and more than twenty thousand 
miles since the completion of the tour of the world. 

This work is now presented as a selection of gems gathered 
by experience, observation and study, both on land and sea, 
during all these years of travel. 

E. J. Scott. 

West Milton, Ohio, June, 1. 1885. 



FIRST TOUR-EUROPE. 



CHAPTER I. 



Ocean Voyage — Among the Icebergs — A Storm at Sea — 
A Terrible Disaster — First Sight of Land — Arrival 
at Glasgow — Railway Novelties — From Scotland to 
Vienna. 

.-T^aN the twenty-tilth of March, 1871, I stepped on board 
Ww) ^ ne s ^ eamer India, at New York, and gave myself to 
■^p 1 the pleasures and perils of an ocean voyage. A large 
number of medical students, friends and classmates, were on 
the pier to bid me good-by. At an hour like this, fond 
associations grow stronger and dearer than ever before. 
Kindred faces rushed before my memory, and my thoughts 
lingered around pleasant scenes of earlier days. It was only 
a sense of duty, with bright hopes and future visions, that 
nerved me for the hour of parting. When the time of 
departure was at hand the bridge was lifted, the cable 
dropped, the engine plied its heavy strokes, we waved 
adieu, and the India was off on her voyage of three thousand 
miles across the trackless deep. Familiar faces and scenes fast 
faded from view, and we were soon rocked amidst the billows, 
while the wide-extended waters and the deeo blue sky were 
all the world about us. 

In the evening I went on deck to watch the sun drop out of 
sight behind the waves, and with vision unconfined by narrow 
streets and massive walls, to view the broad expanse around 
us, and gaze amidst the stars, as their wondrous brilliancy — 
undimmed by the smoke of the city — shone in splendor above 
our heads. Such a scene is one well fitted to impress the 
mind with deepest reverence for the Maker of worlds, and 
indelibly stamp upon the mind the truth of the words of 
Revelation, "Great and marvelous a~e thy works, Lord God 



2 TEX YEARS' TRAVEL 

Almighty." Whilst musing on friends left behind, with a 
sense of loneliness stealing over me, and looking up into 
heaven's deep dome, amidst shining worlds, unto Him who 
"holdeth the waters in the hollow of his hand," I resolved to 
shun all evil, and gather from everything possible only the 
good, useful, and beautiful, ever remembering that this mission 
is not for myself alone, but for the good of others. Although 
my visionary dreams were bright, I did not then think that 
the next ten years of my life would be spent in traveling 
from land to land, from isle to isle, and from sea to sea, until 
I had compassed the earth. 

When entering upon a sea-voyage, passengers usually 
imagine that they shall be sea-sick — and their expectations 
are generally fully realized; but I have been so fortunate that 
I barely know what it is to be sea-sick. I find one of the best 
preventives to be temperate and careful habits of life. The 
sensation produced by sea-sickness can not well be described. 
Henry Ward Beecher, on being asked how he felt when 
sea-sick, replied, "The first day I thought I should die, and 
the second day I wished that I had." It is said that Cato 
repented of but three things during his life, one of which was 
having gone by sea when he might have gone by land. 

AMONG THE ICEBERGS. 

Four days after sailing we were among the icebergs. It 
rarely happens that they are seen as far south so early in the 
season. These huge piles or mountains of ice come floating- 
down from the polar ice-fields and glaciers. Great masses of 
ice in the North, becoming detached and floating toward the 
South, constitute the icebergs which sometimes make naviga- 
tion dangerous even in this part of the Atlantic. Our captain 
said that one of the smallest which floated about us was 
sufficient to crush the ship if it should strike her, but if the 
night was clear he apprehended no danger, as he should 
remain on the bridge and keep watch until morning. We 
were about one day and night in passing them. One of the 
largest came between our vessel and the setting sun. Its 
tall pinnacles of the most fantastic shape, presenting the 
appearance of dazzling snowy whiteness, and reflecting the 



AROUND THE WORLD. 3 

prismatic colors, was a scene of majesty and great beauty. 
From calculations of their specific gravity, it has been 
determined that about eight times the volume of an iceberg 
floats beneath the water. 

A STORM AT SEA. 

For days the white-crested waves ran high and lashed about 
the steamer. The passengers talked of the dreadful storm 
that was raging, but the officers said, " It is only high cross- 
currents." 

A barometer hung in the cabin, and the passengers on 
learning its use were quite as diligent in watching its 
variations as the officers themselves. One day when in the 
middle of the Atlantic, about 2:00 p. m. the mercury was 
observed to be very low, having sunk suddenly. Our fears 
of a coming storm were soon confirmed by the noise on deck. 
The sails were taken in, the doors of the cabin secured, 
canvas was drawn over the sky-light and fastened down, 
and we were left in darkness, with the exception of a flickering 
light from the lamp, which swayed back and forth, suspended 
from the ceiling. All things were made ready, just as a 
tremendous gale struck the steamer. The roaring and shrieking 
of the wind, the booming of the waves, the rolling and 
creaking of the vessel, seemed to threaten with certain 
destruction. The officers had to hold to ropes stretched across 
the deck to keep from being washed overboard. A cannon 
on deck, which was used for a signal-gun, was carried off — 
being lifted b}^ a wave and landed in the water without 
touching the bulwarks. The fierce winds piled up the waters 
like mountains. The storm-beat waves rose high, often 
breaking over the steamer. Tons of water poured from the 
deck during the night. The waves struck with such force 
that the captain had to turn the steamer and take a course 
in which she was most protected. Up and down she went, 
tossed like a leaf upon a storm y billow — first climbing the 
mountains of dark leaden waters, next plunging down as 
if seeking a watery abyss. Though great were her dimensions 
and of many tons' weight, yet she seemed but a toy with 
which the winds were wont to play. 



4 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

Passengers and their baggage were pitched about, the stout- 
hearted grew faint, and the more timid screamed with fright. 
It seemed as if all the world was in mad convulsions. The 
passengers kept their state-rooms during the storm. When it 
was over, many said they had been thrown from their berths, 
while others held on until their arms were bruised and sore. 

In one of the state-rooms was a very intemperate man from 
Texas. His mother, a wealthy woman, having tried everything 
she could to break up the evil habits of her only son, decided 
upon sending him to Europe to try the effect of an ocean 
voyage. All through the raging of the storm, the cries and 
groans of this man could be heard, forcibly illustrating what 
a fearful thing it is to be brought face to face with death 
while the conscience is burdened with the terrible record of a 
drunkard's life. 

TERRIBLE DISASTER AT SEA. 

The captain of the India was at one time captain of a 
steamer on the Anchor Line, when the vessel and crew met 
with a terrible disaster. So appalling was the scene that he 
could not be induced to describe it, and only made brief 
replies to questions that were asked him concerning it, and 
then he would go on deck and walk to and fro in a silent, 
pensive mood. 

The circumstances of the wrecking of the steamer were about 
as follows: During a voyage from New York to Glasgow. 
with six hundred passengers on board the ship, the shaft 
of the propeller broke, causing such damage to the vessel that 
the waters rushed in; and the ship sunk, and all on board 
except three — the captain, and an aged man and his wife — were 
lost. The captain made his escape in a boat by himself, and 
the aged people in another. The boats were soon separated, 
and drifted about, driven by the wild ocean-waves for many 
days, when the three survivors were landed on the northern 
coast of Ireland, in a famished condition. 

THE FIRST SIGHT OF LAND. 

One day as the purple hues of evening were gathering in the 
East, and the golden beams of the setting sun illumined the 



ABOUND THE WORLD. 5 

clouds with surpassing beauty, the cry "Land in view!" 
brought us all on deck. Before us lay the northern coast of 
Ireland, grand and beautiful, though wrapped in transparent 
haze. thou Emerald Isle, rising out of the swelling flood, 
how the heart leaps for joy as the e}^ catches a glimpse of thy 
shores! No wonder that Moore should immortalize this his 
native isle with song. 

None except those who have been out at sea can know the 
rapturous joy that crowds the heart at first sight of land. 
But Ireland's shores were not our place of landing, and so Ave 
bore off to the North, to make our way to Glasgow, one of 
Scotland's chief cities. 

The incidents of an ocean voyage have been so often given, 
and are so similar, that we will omit them here; for we have 
many other interesting things to say to our readers who 
accompany us in our various tours, and in our journey around 
the world. I can only say that of the five times I have 
crossed the Atlantic, this first voyage was by far the most 
stormy and perilous. 

Early the next morning after the first sight of land, we 
entered the mouth of the Clyde, and sailed up to Glasgow, 
some twenty miles distant, where we landed. The river Clyde 
was formerly so shallow that boys could wade it, but it has 
since been deepened and widened at enormous expense, until 
ocean steamers, three hundred feet in length, and drawing 
twenty-three feet of water, easily pass along its channel, and 
steamers and sail- vessels from almost all parts of the world 
may be seen in the harbor. This enterprise is characteristic 
of the persevering energy of the Scotch. 

o L a s g o w 

Is called the "Industrial Metropolis of Scotland," and is in 
many respects one of the most important cities of the 
kingdom. It is principally situated on the north side of the 
river, but with extensive and populous suburbs on the south 
side. The situation of Glasgow is mostly quite level, excepting 
the more northern part. The harbor, almost constantly 
crowded with vessels, gives the appearance of a forest of masts 



6' TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

and steaming flues, and for many miles down the river the 
banks are covered with ship-yards. The clang and clatter of 
thousands of hammers, the streets thronged with noisy 
carts, cabs, and omnibuses, clouds of smoke rising from 
smelting furnaces, chemical works, and the many founderies 
and workshops, make it a city not the most desirable as a 
place of rest for an American lady after a long sea-voyage. 

Glasgow is of quite ancient date, yet for many centuries it- 
was but a very insignificant town. In a little more than half 
a century it has quintupled in dimensions, and now has a 
population exceeding 500,000, and abounds with many costly 
edifices. It has many extensive manufactories; and the largest 
chemical works in the world are located here. They cover 
twelve acres of ground and employ upward of one thousand 
men. Some of the chimney-stacks rise to the wondrous height 
of four hundred and forty to four hundred and sixty feet, and 
are the highest in Great Britain. Vast columns of smoke rise 
from its thousands of furnaces, wrapping the city in a gloomy 
mantle, and giving the sun the appearance of a great bronze 
shield. The city is supplied with water at the rate of thirty- 
two million gallons per day. The University building is a 
magnificent one, costing (with the grounds) more than twenty- 
three million dollars. But we can not dwell longer on the 
description of Glasgow, for we must hasten on. 

RAILWAY NOVELTIES. 

I took the train for Leith, a port on the North Sea, 
situated on the opposite coast of Scotland from Glasgow. The 
cars, called "Railway Carriages," are first, second, and third 
class, divided into compartments capable of holding ten 
persons, and opening on the side. The conductor is called a 
"guard." He examines the tickets and then locks the doors 
of the carriages before the train starts. This is the style in 
Europe and Great Britain, with the exception of Russia, where 
the American system has been introduced by Messrs. Harrison 
of Philadelphia and Winans of Baltimore. 

Having to change cars on the way, I pulled the bell-rope to 



AROUND THE WORLD. 7 

call the guard, who approaching me inquired, "How have you 
booked?" — equivalent for, "to what place is your ticket?" 

FROM SCOTLAND TO VIENNA. 

I crossed the North Sea on the steamer Florence, for 
Hamburg, a distance of five hundred miles. An unclouded 
sky, smooth crystal waters, and the many sail-vessels all about 
us, with their canvas swelling in the breeze, gave the appear- 
ance of a grand fleet, and made the voyage a delightful one. 

On the second morning we reached the river Elbe. Its bright, 
smooth, yellow waters, in contrast with the dark-green banks, 
gave the appearance of emerald set with a band of gold. This 
was relieved by the appearance, now and then, of a quaint 
German town upon the banks. 

Hamburg is situated on the river Elbe, some seventy-five 
miles from where it empties into the German ocean, and is the 
largest of the free cities, and the greatest commercial port of 
Germany. As I visited Hamburg in tours made after this, I 
shall treat of it more fully in a future chapter. Having my 
ticket, which I had purchased in New York for Vienna and 
return, properly stamped, I took the train for Berlin in the 
afternoon, arriving there at 10:00 p. m. Here I changed trains. 
The drive from one depot to the other was through the 
principal part of the city, and occupied about one hour. 
Berlin is a beautiful place. The streets are regular, broad, and 
well paved, having blocks of large and elegant buildings. 

On getting out of the carriage at the depot, I inquired for 
the train to Vienna. I addressed a Frenchman, who replied, 
(C Ne comprenez vous pas, madarne," which being interpreted means, 
"I do not understand you, madam." A porter came to me, to 
whom I showed my ticket. On reading it he said, "Ganz richtig, 
Wien, Schnellzag, wagen fuer Frauen" wmich from my knowledge 
of German I understood to be, "All right, Vienna, express- 
train, carriage for women." 

Traveling all night, and the next day until noon, brought 
us to Oderburg, on the border of Austria. Here I had to pass 
the custom-house officers, who were careful to ask if I carried 
cigars and opium. Not heeding the negative reply that I 
gave, they commenced a rigid search of 1113^ baggage. Under- 



8 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

standing them, and having some change in small coins, I 
slipped them into their hands. The effect was indeed magical. 
They at once replaced the things, locked and strapped my 
boxes, and passed me on with many polite expressions. 
The remainder of the journey the scenery was delightful. 
The broad, beautiful valley of the Danube, with mountain 
ranges lying to the north and to the south, with towns 
and villages and quiet rural homes, make a scene most 
picturesque and lovely. I arrived at Vienna at 5:00 p. m., 
having been twenty-four hours en route from Hamburg. 
Taking a cab, I went to the general hospital, called the 
Allgemeines Krankenhaus. Here my journey of nearly three 
weeks was ended; and indeed it seemed a happy privilege to 
enjoy a quiet rest amid the bursting flowers and beauties of 
spring. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



CHAPTER IL 

Wonders of Vienna — Excursion to Italy — Crossing the 
Alps — Venice and its Novelties — Festival on the 
Water — Journeyings in Italy — View of the "Eternal 
City" — Visit to the Catacombs, 

pi XI'ECTING to meet my classmate, Mary J. Safford, at the 
lllf/l general hospital, I was disappointed to find that she 

^5pi had gone to Breslau, I was among strangers, and had 
to speak altogether in the German language* But I found the 
Viennese a most hospitable people* I engaged boarding in 
the family of an officer of the hospital. I was told that the 
celebrated Dr. Braun, one of the professors of the university, 
had refused to again admit a lachy student to his department; 
but I was received with great courtesy, and found no difficulty 
in gaining admission to his clinics; and I enjo} T ed the 
advantages of that great hospital in the pursuit of my studies. 
For the cause of woman I had ventured much, and that there 
were now no barriers to my advancement was very gratifying. 
The opportunities here far surpassed anything I had dared to 
hope for. I occupied a chair by Professor Braun at his clinics 
—a privilege granted to no one else excepting Dr. Barclay, of 
Baltimore. There were hundreds of students, gathered from 
all parts of the world, attending the clinics and lectures, by 
all of whom I was treated with due courtesy. 

The hospital is an immense building, capable of holding 
three thousand patients. It is arranged around numerous 
quadrangular courts, covering several acres of ground. The 
hospital receives thirty thousand patients annually, and 
employs more than fifty physicians and four hundred nurses. 
The museum contains a highly valuable collection of 
pathological and anatomical specimens, and about three 
thousand surgical instruments. I finished my course, passed 



10 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

my examination, and received certificates as the men students, 
among whom was Dr. Johnson, of Washington City, I). C. 

WONDERS OF VIENNA. 

Before leaving Vienna I took occasion to visit its principal 
places of interest, of which there are many. The city occupies 
a beautiful situation at the foot of Mount Kahlenberg, on the 
banks of the Danube. It comprises the ancient city with 
nine suburbs, and is inclosed by a wall twelve feet high, 
having fifteen gates. The ancient or internal city occupies 
the center of this great metropolis. It was formerly separated 
from the suburbs by fortifications fifty feet high, furnished 
with eleven bastions, and surrounded by a deep ditch. 
Between the ditch and the suburbs was a space of open 
ground, overgrown with grass and planted with trees. In 
1858, by order of the emperor, the wall was demolished and 
the ditch filled up. A boulevard — the Ringstrasse — occupies 
the space, and in many places is more than two hundred feet 
in width ; and in magnificence it is not surpassed by any street 
in Europe. It is a grand thoroughfare for carriages, and has 
two lines of tram-cars. Its broad side-walks with excellent 
pavement and shade-trees, form a delightful promenade. 
Vienna is a city of ancient origin, and has been the scene of 
many interesting historical events. The most memorable, and 
one largely influencing the interests of Christianity, was its 
famous siege in 1683, by a Turkish army two hundred 
thousand strong, which was forced to surrender by the timely 
arrival of the king of Poland, who defeated the besiegers with 
great slaughter. 

The established religion of the empire is Roman Catholic. 
Vienna is the home of a Roman Catholic archbishop, who 
bears the title of prince. Many church -festivals, called Eeirtags, 
are celebrated during the year; and it is not unusual for two 
days out of the week to be given to them; the principal 
one is Corpus Christi. 

CORPUS CHRISTI-CHURCH FESTIVAL. 

On the day of this festival I went early in the morning 
to secure a place to view the procession, which gathered at 



AROUND THE WORLD. 11 

St. Stephen's Cathedral, in front of which I obtained a seat 
at a cost of one florin. The commencement of this splendid 
edifice dates back to 1144 It is 354 feet long, 229 feet broad, 
and 80 feet high, and is one of the finest monuments of the 
middle ages. Its spire rises to the height of four hundred and 
fifty feet, having many carved pinnacles and statues. Its 
great dome has thirty-one windows and five porches, and is 
ornamented with various groups of historical figures. The 
large bell in the tower was cast from one hundred and eighty 
cannon taken from the Turks. 

The firing of the cannon was the signal for the procession 
to form. The first to arrive were detachments of the city 
garrison, which is twenty thousand strong. These were 
followed by the Hungarian Horse-Guards, in showy uniform, 
with high bear-skin caps, scarlet coats, and leopard-skins 
stretched diagonally across the back from the right shoulder. 
Salutes were fired to announce the arrival of the imperial 
party, which was preceded by guards, aids de camp, counselors 
and chamberlains, all in costly uniform of brilliant colors. 
The various orders of the priesthood were in the procession, 
having for their central figure the archbishop. He was clad in 
the richest robes, indicative of his office, and walked under a 
canopy of gold cloth, carried by the bishops. The monks 
from the monasteries of the city followed in the train. As the 
emperor and empress came in view, a joyful shout went up 
from the multitude, as they exclaimed "Kaiser!" " Kaiserina J '" 
which means emperor and empress. The imperial retinue 
approached, led by the cavalry in Austrian uniform, 
brilliant coats with heavy epaulets braided with gold, and 
burnished helmets. Next came a number of carriages, each 
drawn by four horses, with ladies and gentlemen from the 
palace, then the emperor with his attendants, in a carriage 
drawn by eight white horses. The dress of the emperor was 
the uniform of an Austrian military commander ; that of the 
empress was of white, with a court-train falling gracefully 
from her shoulders, several yards in length, and borne by two 
young men called pages, in handsome costume. 

The services in the church were of a very imposing 
character, lasting about three hours. From this place the 



12 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

procession went to other churches, and engaged in similar 
service. Thus the time was spent until about 4:00 p. m., before 
the services of the day were ended and the procession 
dispersed. 

NOTED CHURCHES. 

One of the most elegant churches in the city is the Votive. 
This was ei*ected in commemoration of the rescue of the 
emperor — Francis Joseph — from the hands of a man who 
attempted to stab him while walking on the ramparts 
adjoining his palace, in 185S. For its construction more 
than six hundred thousand dollars were raised by subscription. 
I frequently attended the Court-Chapel in the Imperial Palace, 
where the best classical music is executed by twenty-six 
musicians, eighteen singers, and two leaders. 

The Church of the Capuchins contains the imperial vault, 
which consists of a long archway with about eighty coffins 
arranged along the sides. Among them are the tombs of the 
only son of Napoleon I. and of the unfortunate Maximilian. 
Here is also the remarkable funeral car of the Empress Maria 
Theresa and her imperial consort. 

Vienna abounds with numerous public and private gardens, 
where concerts are given. The Peoples' Garden, called 
Volksgarten, is most magnificent. In the center is the temple 
of Theseus, in imitation of the one at Athens. It contains a 
beautiful group in white marble, representing Theseus killing 
the centaur. In this garden Strauss' Orchestra gave concerts 
twice each week during the season. There is no city in 
Europe that has so large a number of resident nobility as 
Vienna. There are nearly two hundred families of princes, 
counts, and barons, who make Vienna their residence the 
greater part of the year. It is said, with the exception of 
London the citizens of Vienna are the richest in Europe. 
From its size and wealth Vienna comes nearer London and 
Paris than any other European city. 

THE IMPERIAL PALACE 

Gives accommodation to eighty -five families, numbering 
about three hundred persons. The building consists of 



AROUND THE WORLD. 13 

various parts, erected at different periods. The oldest 
portion dates back to the beginning of the thirteenth century. 
The room containing the chancery of the empire is consid- 
ered the finest specimen of architecture in Germany, while 
that of the Imperial Library is a master piece of art. The 
large room of the library is two hundred and forty feet long, 
and its ceiling is supported by eighty columns, adorned with 
statues representing the princes of the House of Hapsburg. 
The collection of books consists of four hundred and ten 
thousand volumes, more than twelve thousand of which were 
printed before the year 1500. In the absence of the emperor 
and his family, the imperial apartments are open to visitors. 
The Imperial Treasury contains many historical and 
valuable relics. These are arranged in glass cases and protected 
by guards. Among them are the regalia of Charlemagne, 
consisting of a crown adorned with unpolished stones, an orb, 
a scepter and a sword; the coronation crowns of Ferdinand 
I. and his empress. The crown, orb and scepter, studded 
with costly gems, worn by the German emperors. The crown 
of Francis Joseph, the reigning sovereign, contains twenty 
large diamonds and five hundred and four small ones, one 
hundred and twenty-two large pearls and seven hundred and 
forty-five small ones. In other cases is the regal attire worn 
b} r Napoleon I. at the time he was crowned king of Milan; 
the silver cradle of the king of Rome, son of Napoleon I. ; the 
saber of Tamerlane, and the historical diamond called the 
Florentine, lost by Charles the Bold at the battle of Grandson, 
which was picked up by a soldier, who, not knowing its value, 
sold it for five florins — equal to about $2.50.* Its weight is one 
hundred and thirty-three, carats, and it is valued at one 
million florins. There is also an emerald weighing two 
thousand nine hundred and eighty carats. 

MAMMOTH OPERA AND DWELLINGS. 

Characteristic of the musical tastes of the citizens of 
Vienna are its theaters and operas. The new opera-house, 
previous to the construction of the Grand Opera in Paris, 
was the best and grandest in Europe. It gives accommodation 
to three thousand persons and has apartments for the royal 



14 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

family, grand corridors for promenading, apartments for the 
manager and other dependencies. It is decorated with gilded 
carvings, statues, frescoes, and paintings. 

The building called the Freihaus dates from 1788, and is the 
largest dwelling-house in Vienna, having twenty courts and 
homes for two hundred families, which are occupied by about 
twelve hundred persons. It is said that as far back as twenty- 
five years ago it yielded its owner — an Austrian prince — the 
income of one gold ducat, or two dollars, an hour. 

The Imperial Gallery at Belvedere contains three thousand 
paintings. Different sovereigns have contributed to this 
gallery from the most valuable works of the old masters of 
this art. It is impossible to give an idea of the richness of 
the collection. 

The environs of Vienna are picturesque and beautiful. The 
view is bounded on the east by the Carpathean Mountains, 
and on the west by a series of undulating hills, while from 
the north flows the Danube, winding its course through the 
valley. A charming place to visit is Schonbrunn and its 
Imperial Palace, completed by Maria Theresa in 1744. It is a 
grand structure, containing fourteen hundred and forty rooms 
and one hundred and forty kitchens. In this palace, in 1832 
Napoleon II. died on the same bed that his imperial father 
occupied in 1809. The park is one of the finest in Europe. 
The tall trees bordering the avenues have their boughs 
interlaced as compactly as a well-trained hedge and trimmed 
to represent a perpendicular wall of living green. Fountains, 
statues, and parterres embellish the grounds. It contains a 
botanical garden and a menagerie. On an eminence in the 
rear of the park stands the Glorietta Temple, from wh'ich may 
be obtained a fine panoramic view of the city and the 
surrounding landscape. The Prater, probably the largest park 
in Europe, is where the World's Exposition was held in 1873. 
It consists of the remaining portion of a large forest, intersected 
by six broad avenues. The chief of these (Hauptallee), 
the longest and finest, is divided into three sections. The 
avenue in the center is for carriages, the right for equestrians, 
and the left for pedestrians. These three avenues terminate 
in a circular platform called the Rondeau. On the pleasure- 



AROUND THE WORLD. 15 

grounds of the Prater of a summer evening thousands of 
persons are often assembled, listening to the bands of music 
and taking their suppers at the cafes. The Viennese are 
sociable and vivacious in their manners, and are fond of 
mingling together in the enjoyments of outdoor life, 
especially eating and drinking, with music and dancing. 

EXCURSION TO ITALY. 

I had a desire before returning to New York to visit Italy. 
In this I was encouraged by some of my friends, while others 
imagined that I would fall a victim to some misfortune, as 
sun-stroke, or Roman fever. I had been in the midst of 
the epidemic of typhus fever that had raged in Vienna, 
causing many deaths in the hospital, besides other maladies 
of patients in the Avards, and I had no fears of going to Italy. 
Before starting I obtained information respecting the journey, 
and where to find reliable parties and places in the different 
cities that I intended to visit. 

CROSSING THE ALPS. 

Leaving Vienna by the Southern Railway, I was soon in the 
midst of the Austrian Alps — a region noted for its grand 
and picturesque scenery. It was delightfully grand to view 
the towering pinnacles, with their snowy, cloud-wreathed 
crests; to see the thundering cataracts, as the waters went 
tumbling down the mountain-side, dashing off into sheets 
of spray and reflecting the rainbow colors; to behold the 
massive rocks that had been hurled from their native bed by 
nature's tremendous convulsions; to gaze down into deep, 
dark gorges that lay at our feet, or look away over the 
beautiful landscapes and fruitful valleys, dotted with villages 
and quiet homes, and mark the path of meandering streams, 
while our train in its winding course went sweeping on, 
darting in and out of mountain tunnels. 

The Alps extend in a semi-circular, unbroken chain from 
the mouth of the Rhone, in France, to the plains of Hungary. 
Their breadth varies from one hundred to one hundred and 
thirty miles; their mean height is about eight thousand feet, 
being but little below the limit of perpetual snow. Numerous 



16 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

summits exceed ten thousand feet in height. The scenes 
along our route were too grand for pen to portray. 

Upon the shore of the Adriatic, a few miles from Trieste, 
stands the castle of Miramar, which was the summer residence 
of Maximilian, the ill-fated emperor of Mexico. A journey 
of a few hours more through the luxuriant plains of 
Lombardy brings to view the city of Venice, resting like a 
queen of beauty upon the water. The Ponte della Lac/una 
— Bridge of Lagoons — was built for the Lombardo Venitian 
Railway, and constitutes the link which binds this city of the 
sea with the main land. It is over two miles long and about 
thirty feet wide. It is built of Istrian marble, which is very 
durable. It has five expansions besides the abutments, and is 
supported by two hundred and twenty arches, with two 
hundred and sixteen pillars* Marble balustrading incloses 
the sides. 

GONDOLAS OF VENICE. 

Having crossed the bridge, Ave are in the midst of the novel 
scenes of this wonderful city of enchantment. Horses and 
cabs not being used in Venice, I took my seat in a gondola 
and was rowed along the Grand Canal to the hotel. This 
eanal, called the Canalazzo, divides the city into two unequal 
parts, and is the great highway for business and pleasure. Its 
breadth varies from one hundred to one hundred and eighty 
feet. It is intersected by one hundred and forty-six smaller 
canals which are the water streets of Venice; by them 
passengers are conveyed to any part of the city. The canal is 
the street and the gondola is the cab or carriage. There are 
three hundred and six bridges across the canals; of these. 
three cross the Grand Canal — the Rialto, or stone bridge, and 
two iron bridges. Access can be had by land to all parts of 
the city through the narrow streets, and across the canals by 
the bridges. 

The gondola is a long, narrow, light boat, having a singular 
shaped head, resembling an ancient battle ax. In the center 
is a cabin nicely fitted up with cushioned seats, and windows 
curtained or with blinds. The gondola cuts its way rapidly 
through the water and sweeps gracefully around the corners. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 17 

The gondolier stands up at one end and rows with a single 
oar. With my knowledge of the Italian language, I made 
myself understood without difficulty, and soon found the 
place to which I was directed. I engaged a guide, who 
conducted me to all the principal places of interest in the 
city — the palaces, churches, art galleries, and scenes of noted 
historical event. The time was the second of July, when the 
great festival was given in honor of the occupation of Rome 
by Victor Emanuel and the Italian troops, headed by 
Garibaldi. No city can display a greater number of beautiful 
flags and banners than Venice, and no people seem more 
happy on festive occasions than the Venetians. I took my 
stand upon the Rialto, for the procession was to take place on 
the Grand Canal. A great multitude of people, clothed in 
their gayest holiday attire, had assembled to witness the scene 
on the water. The canal was soon filled with gondolas, 
Literally bridging it over from shore to shore, each having 
a flag of beautiful color, which waved gracefully in the 
gentle breeze. They passed up to the Piazza di St. Marco — 
Square of St. Mark — whence the procession was to start, 
which soon came. In the center was a grand state barge, like 
a floating palace, decorated with beautiful flags and banners, 
with bands of music, and crowded with the nobility of Venice 
in their costly robes. It was rowed by plumed gondoliers 
as in the palmy days of the republic. Clustering around 
the barge were the gondolas with ladies and gentlemen in 
bright and handsome costumes. This brilliant panorama was 
one third of a mile wide, and two or three miles long. 
Echoing to the music and songs on the water were the joyful 
acclamations of the thousands on shore. When this fairy-like 
picture had vanished, it seemed more like a dream than a 
scene from real life. 

A new era had dawned upon Italy; a new life and a new 
spirit animated the people, who were now freed from the 
temporal power of the pope. Heretofore the pope had been 
considered under four titles: first, as chief of the church; 
second, as patriarch; third, as bishop of Rome; fourth, as a 
temporal prince. As primate, he is the superior of all the 
Romish churches; as patriarch, his rights extend over the 



18 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

kingdoms and provinces within the pale of the church; as 
bishop, he exercises in the diocese of Rome the ordinary 
functions of that dignitary, which he has not a right to 
exercise in other dioceses; as a temporal prince, he was 
sovereign of Rome and the states which have been acquired 
by donation or proscription. It was the departure of his 
power as temporal prince that was the cause of Italy's great 
rejoicing. 

On my tours, three and four years later, I revisited Italy, 
embracing in all a period of three months in this land of 
beauty and poetry — "the cradle of the arts." 

A JOURNEY THROUGH ITALY. 

From Venice I continued my journey to Florence, Rome, 
and Naples. From Bologna to Florence the railway lies in the 
midst of some of the grandest scenery of the Apennines. 
Seventy-three tunnels have been cut through the mountains 
— in some places so near together that the train is scarcely out 
of one before it enters another. In the valleys are luxuriant 
vineyards and orchards of the olive and fig. The olive is 
interesting as being one of the first trees mentioned in the 
Scripture, and for having been used since the flood as the 
most universal emblem of peace. It is an evergreen tree — 
seldom more than thirty feet in height. In shape it is 
something like an apple tree. The leaves resemble those of 
the willow; being dark green on the upper surface, and 
a silvery hue on the under side. It blossoms profusely 
and bears fruit every other year. The flower is at first 
yellow ; but as it expands it grows whiter, leaving a yellow 
center. The olive is principally valuable for the oil it 
produces. An ordinary sized, vigorous tree, is said to yield 
one thousand pounds of oil during a season. Both the olive 
and the fig thrive in poor soil, even on the side and top 
of rocky hills, where there is but little earth. Hence the 
expression, "Oil out of the flinty rock." One peculiarity of 
the fig tree is that the fruit comes before the leaves. The fig 
,ree with leaves but without fruit is known to be barren for 
he season. 
To Florence has been awarded the title of the " Fairest Citv 



AROUND THE WORLD. 19 

of the Earth." It is situated in the rich valley of the Arno, 
surrounded by beauties of nature and enriched with treasures 
of art. 

COMPANIONS — AN EDITOR AND HIS WIFE. 

At the hotel where I stopped I met a Mrs. K and her 

husband, from Michigan. He was about fifty years of age, 
and was once an editor; but he had disease of the brain, and 
was so deaf that he had to use an ear-trumpet. He was 
near-sighted, bald-headed, and had a poor memory. Mrs. 

K was an intelligent, fine looking lady, with abundant 

black hair and black eyes, and but twenty-two years of age. 
This seemed a sad illustration of the misfortune of being 
unequally yoked in marriage. They had spent several months 

in Italy. Mrs. K — was well versed in the history of 

various places of interest usually visited by tourists. We 
decided to go in company to Rome, and took the night train 

to avoid traveling in the heat of the day. Mr. K was 

quite anxious to talk; and whatever we said must be repeated 
through the trumpet, which was very amusing. Sometimes 
he imagined that his ticket was lost, and had our things 
thrown into confusion until it was found. 

APPROACHING ROME. 

As the morning dawned we were anxious to catch a 
glimpse of the "Eternal City." As the train swept across the 
Campagna, the dome of St. Peter's loomed up in view. The 
place was pointed out to us where it is said that Constantine 
the Great was standing with his army when the luminous 
cross appeared in the heavens, encircled by these words, in 
Greek, "By this conquer" — a circumstance which led him to 
embrace Christianity. This inscription he put upon the 
imperial standard in place of the Roman eagle, and under it 
led his armies on to victory. 

Modern, like ancient Rome, is surrounded by a wall, — in 
some places fifty feet high, — which is built chiefly of brick, and 
has thirteen gates and nearly three hundred towers. The 
railway enters the city by the gate called Porta Maggiora. 

DETAINED BY GUARDS. 

On leaving the train we had to pass another gate where our 



20 TEN YEARS' 5 "RAVEL 

tickets must be given up. A porter had gone on with our 

baggage, and when we reached the gate Mr. K exclaimed, 

"Oh, my ticket is gone!" A fruitless search — with the sun 
pouring his fervid heat upon our heads — proved that this 
was no false alarm. We explained to the guards at the 
gate what had happened, but after a long parle} r they 
demanded that the ticket be produced before we could be 
permitted to enter. It was trying to be detained on the very 
portal of the city by this circumstance, and we decided to force 

a passage. Watching an opportunity, with Mr. K 

between us, we dashed through, but were pursued by the 
guards, who were fierce-looking men, and armed with rifles 
and bayonets. I turned, and facing them, said that I should 
not be detained, for I had presented my ticket, which was 
taken at the gate. By this time my companions had stepped 
into a carriage and driven away some distance, where I soon 
joined them. 

I had a reference to an English family, where I intended 
to remain during my stay in the city, but being urged by 

Mrs. K to join them I consented to take breakfast at the 

place where they stopped. 

It was near noon when I went out to look for the address of 
Mrs. Marguerita Polk, u via: del Babaino, numero primo cinco 
primo, quarto piano" which interpreted is, "Street Babuino, 
No. 151, fourth floor." The citizens of Rome generally 
prefer to live on the upper floor, knowing that the higher the 
altitude the greater the freedom from malaria. When I 
reached the house and rang the door-bell, according to the 
custom in Rome, a side window above was thrown open and 
the inquiry made, "Who is there?" This precaution is taken 
to prevent annoyance from the importunities of mendicants, 
or the intrusion of undesirable persons. I was received into 
the house; and the place proved to be a suitable one for a 
home, so I decided to stop there dining my visit at Rome. 

Boarding in the same house was a Dr. Phillips, from 
Leghorn, who suggested that I secure some relic from Rome, 
in the medical line, to take back to New York, and proposed a 



AROUND THE WORLD. 21 

visit to the Catacombs. Our party was soon formed and we 
arranged to drive out in carriages. 

APPIAN WAY. 

Some of the most interesting of the Catacombs lie along the 
Appian Way, which was one of the most celebrated lines of 
communication that led from the capitol of the Roman world. 
It was commenced B. C. 312. It was the oldest of the Roman 
roads. Its foundation was admirably laid, the loose soil 
having been removed and a bed of cement prepared, on top of 
which was placed the pavement, consisting of large blocks of 
stone, composed chiefly of basaltic lava nicely joined together, 
giving a smooth surface. The natural obstructions in the way 
of this road were very great, and it must have been built at 
enormous cost. It extended to southern Italy and Greece, 
and was continued to the most eastern possessions of the 
Roman empire. In time of the wars and sieges of ancient 
Rome, this grand causeway was obstructed by ruins for miles 
beyond the city, until it was almost obliterated, being marked 
only by the line of ruined sepulchers, which form picturesque 
objects in that solitaiw waste. During the reign of Pius IX. 
extensive excavations were made, and the road opened for 
several miles, to aid in the study of archaeology. In one place 
there are monumental tombs which continue for nearly four 
miles. Much of the ancient pavement still remains on the 
road. 

The Catacombs are widely distributed around Rome, num- 
bering in all about sixty. They consist of an immense 
net-work of subterraneous passages, or galleries, intersecting 
each other at right angles, and sometimes diverging from a 
center. In general they are eight feet high by three to five 
feet wide. The roof is either horizontal or slightly vaulted. 
Their extent within the vicinity of Rome has been estimated 
at five hundred and eighty miles. They served as places of 
refuge, of worship, and of burial for the Christians, from the 
earliest period of Christianity to the sixth century of our era, 
during the persecutions they had to suffer under the predeces- 
sors of Constantine the Great. 

Padre Marchi, a celebrated Italian archaeologist, supposed 



22 



TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



that each Catacomb contains one hundred thousand grave.-,, 
and that the total number buried here amount to six millions. 
This ancient city of the dead is indeed a gloomy place. A 
short time previous to our visit a party of seven were lost in 
these subterraneous passages,, and were never found. St. 
Callixtus is the largest and most interesting of the Catacombs. 
We explored this and others with torches and lighted tapers. 
The graves are arranged in tiers eight feet in length,, and when 
found undisturbed are closed with marble slabs or tiles. In 



* to**~-^ 




some places we came to vaults, and in others to chapels. 
Passing a gallery we entered what is called the Pontifical < 'rypt 
— the burial place of several of the popes. It was in this place 
that the doctor, who was seeking a relic for me, obtained a 
fine specimen, a portion of the humerus, or arm-bone, clean 
and white, and in a good state of preservation. Bones which 
have been buried so long usually -crumble on exposure to the 



AROUND THE WORLD. 23 

raix, so we handled this with great care. The doctor, desiring 
that I should be able to carry the bone in safety, attended to 
the packing of it, A digression may be made here to trace the 
further history of this bone, I carried it with me in my tour 
in Europe and Great Britain for two months, and on my return 
across the Atlantic. At different times during the winter I 
-exhibited it before the students in the New York Medical 
•College, and in the Free Medical College for Women — institu- 
tions in which I held a professorship. At the time of my 
first experience in the anatomical room, at the Woman's 
Medical College, Philadelphia, I obtained a portion of the bones 
of a human skeleton, which, in addition to the specimen from 
Rome, I took to my father's home in the State of Ohio. After 
his death, and while I was in India, — and my friends seldom 
hearing from me, — these bones were discovered among my 
personal effects; and those not of the medical profession being 
Averse to having even a part of a human skeleton in the 
house, interred them. So the bone that was laid in the tomb in 
the Catacombs near Rome — perhaps about the beginning of 
the Christian era— is now buried near West Milton, Ohio. 

The more I saw of Italy the more I liked it, and the more J 
knew of Rome the more the fascination grew upon me, until I 
exclaimed : 

"I am in Rome! oft as the morning ray 
Visits these eyes, waking at once I cry, 
Whence this excess of joy? what has befallen me? 
And oft within a thrilling voice replies, 
Thou art in Rome ! A thousand busy thoughts 
Rush on my mind, a thousand images, 
And I spring up as girt to run a race. 
Thou art in Rome! the city that so long 
Reigned absolute mistress of the world ; 
The mighty vision that the prophet saw, 

And trembled. 
The city that, by temperance, fortitude, 
And love of glory, towered above the clouds, 
Then fell ; but falling kept the highest seat, 
And in her loneliness, her pomp of woe, 
Where now she dwells, withdrawn into the wild, 
Still o'er the mind maintains from age to age 
Her empire undiminished." 

Having visited Rome on a future tour, at which time I 
remained longer in the city, I shall leave its further descrip- 
tion for another chapter. 



24 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



CHAPTER III. 

The Campagna — Naples and its Beauties — Night View 

of Vesuvius — Sight-seeing — An Attempt at Robbery — 
Ascent of Vesuvius — Its Wonderful Eruptions — The 
Buried Cities. 

fHE accounts given of the grandeur of Mount Vesuvius 
in eruption, led me to undertake an excursion to 
?^P Naples, -on which I was accompanied by my hostess. 
The time from Rome to Naples by railway is about seven 
hours. The.route is through the Campagna, a low, unhealthy, 
undulating, and uncultivated plain, which surrounds Rome. 
The extent is about one hundred miles long by forty miles 
wide. The ground rises but little above the sea-level, and is 
almost entirely volcanic, being covered with rocks, ashes, and 
scorise, thrown out at different periods. Its lakes are formed 
by craters of extinct volcanoes. In ancient times independent 
towns dotted the Campagna; but it is now bare and desolate, 
without trees and but few inhabitants. The streams running 
through these low lands are dull and sluggish. A miasma arises 
from the grounds, which is the cause of the much dreaded 
Roman fever, which prevails during the summer months. 

On the west of the Campagna the ground rises higher than 
the Roman hills, and on the north-east the Sabine Mountains 
surround it like an amphitheater. Beyond these grandly rise 
the Apennines, with a summit like a snow-crested wall. To the 
south the wide plain extends to the Mediterranean, which can 
be distinguished by the light reflected from its waters; and 
through it from north to south the Tiber winds its way. 

On leaving the Campagna we enter the region of the 
Apennines, the place of many a daring adventure with bands 
of roving brigands, which infest the country. These men 
often enter the surrounding towns in disguise and mingle 



AROUND THE WORLD, 25 

with the inhabitants, then retire to their hiding-places in the 
wild gorges and dark recesses. One peculiar feature of Italy 
is the fact that the towns and cities are built upon hills,, 
illustrating the language of the Savior, " A city set on a hill 
can not be hid." The distant view of these towns is very fine. 
The white houses on the mountain-side rising one above 
another, reflecting the sun-light, form a beautiful contrast 
with the blue sky, the green grass, and the rich verdure of 
the vineyards. When many miles away we could see Mount 
Vesuvius sending up volumes of smoke and ashes, which 
were floating off and settling in a dark cloud, extending 
along the horizon. 

ARRIVAL AT NAPLES. 

At 5 p. m. we arrived at Naples, the place clothed by poetical 
genius in the brightest hues of enchantment, thus: 

"This region, surely, is not of earth. 
Was it not dropped from heaven ? Not a grove, 
Citron, or pine, or cedar — not a grot, 
Sea-worn, and mantled with the gadding vine, 
But breathes enchantment. Not a cliff but flings 
On the clear wave some image of delight, 
Some cabin-roof glowing with crimson flowers, 
Some ruined temple or fallen monument, 
To muse on as the bark is gliding by. 

Here the vines 
Wed each her elm, and o'er the golden grain 
Hang their luxuriant clusters, checkering 
The sunshine." * * 

The wonders and beauties surrounding Naples, the delicious 
softness of the climate, and the clearness of the atmosphere, 
have given it a place among the famed cities of the world. It 
is built near the Bay of Naples, which is an indentation of the 
Mediterranean Sea. Its buildings are partly at the base of 
the mountain and partly upon its sides, rising in the form of 
a pyramid, in beautiful contrast with the blue waters of the 
bay and the green foliage. The city is divided into the old 
and the new town, or east and west crescents, by a range of 
heights projecting into the sea. The eastern division is the 
most ancient and most densely populated, and contains the 

4 



m TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

principal public buildings, and is intersected by the splendid 
Via, or Street Toledo. The western, or modern section, 
contains the Riviera di Chaija, the fashionable drive or 
promenade. We went to a hotel fronting on the street, with 
balconies on the opposite side, overlooking the charming bay 7 
famed throughout the world for its beauties. 

At the dinner table I attracted the attention of the guests by 
declining to take a glass of wine. That any one in this land 
of celebrated wines should refuse the national beverage, seemed 
an unexpected surprise, and arguments were at once intro- 
duced in its support, such as, "0, it's so delicious; it's good to 
stimulate the appetite, to build up the strength, to keep oft 
fever, to beget cheerfulness, and to induce sleep." But 
knowing the pernicious effects of intoxicating drinks, I 
maintained my principles, and called for a cup of tea. After 
much delay a pot of very bad tea was brought, for which I 
was charged about twice as much as the price of the wine. 

NIGHT VIEW OF VESUVIUS. 

The evening was one of the most delightful of that lovely 
clime. We remained on the veranda until a late hour, 
listening to the music of instruments and the sweet songs 
coming up from the bay below us, where a party of ladies and 
gentlemen were spending the evening rowing over the waters. 
Before us lay old Vesuvius — the burning, thundering, smoking^ 
destructive Vesuvius. The mountain set in the back-ground 
b}^ the darkness of night, and flashes of light, and dense 
columns of smoke rising upward, and fiery streams rolling 
down its sides, made a scene at once grand, awful, and 
terrific. 

SIGHT-SEEING. 

Early the next morning we started on the round of 
sight-seeing. In any Italian city we can find something of 
special interest in the churches. . Here is to be seen the 
grandest works of art, finest specimens of architecture, and 
the costliest decorations. Naples has three hundred churches. 
They contain a collection of tombs and monuments that 
are not surpassed by those of any city in Italy. The 



AROUND THE WORLD. 27 

cathedral dedicated to St. Gennaro is noted as being the scene 
— twice a year — of one of the greatest impostures practiced by 
the priests upon the people, who crowd the church by 
thousands on these occasions. Gennaro is one of their most 
venerated saints. Over the high altar in the cathedral is a 
painting of the Savior, with one of St. Gennaro on the right. 
In a tabernacle behind the altar two vials are kept, which art 
said to contain the blood of St. Gennaro. The priests take 
these out for eight days in succession on the two annual 
festivals, and assume that the blood, which is dry, becomes 
liquefied by a miracle. 

The veneration for the Madonna is universal at Naples. In 
almost every shop may be seen a picture of the " Madre di Dio " 
— mother of Jesus — with lamps burning constantly before it. 
The Royal Palace, the museum, and St. Carlo — the Grand 
Opera-house — are the most important and interesting buildings 
to visit in Naples. The Chiaja is a spacious and splendid street, 
following the semi -circular outline of the bay for three miles, 
on one side having a row of palaces, and on the other a 
beautiful pleasure-ground, extending to the sea. It is 
adorned with temples, fountains, and groups of statuary, 
interspersed among the acacia, myrtle, and orange groves. On 
this avenue is a plaza, or square, where there is music every 
evening, and where may be seen Turks, Mohammedans, Greeks, 
Americans, and others, each in his native costume, presenting 
a striking and grotesque appearance. Every evening the 
Neapolitans turn out for a drive on the avenue. People of all 
grades and ranks may be seen here. One moment dashing- 
livery, dazzling beauty, and a profusion of the richest silks, 
costliest laces, and most brilliant diamonds attract the 
attention; the next, a donkey drawing a rickety little cart, 
upon which is huddled a number of the most squalid, ragged- 
looking people, who are also out for pleasure. 

ATTEMPT AT ROBBERY, 

Many of the streets of the old part of the town are so narrow 
that there is scarcely room for those on foot when a carriage 
is passing. One evening we engaged a man who was waiting 
with his carriage before the hotel, to drive us through some of 



28 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

the principal streets. We had gone some distance along one 
of the avenues, when he turned suddenly into one of these 
narrow streets. On being spoken to about leaving the main 
street, he made excuse by saying that he had to do so because 
there was not room to turn the carriage. Soon I observed 
three men walking by the carriage on the side where I was 
sitting. They were keeping a close watch on me, but my 
suspicions were not yet aroused. In a few moments, while I 
was looking on the other side, I felt a hand cautiously 
searching for my pocket. I turned suddenly, and throwing 
out my hand, hit one of the pick-pockets in the face. They 
seemed very bold, and were not inclined to get out of the way. 
Mrs. Marguerita, who was my companion, ordered them off, 
appeaLing to the driver for protection, who said, "You can not 
expect me to help you, you must take care of yourselves." He 
at last spoke to the men, but used the Neapolitan dialect, 
which we did not understand. The men dropped back and 
we thought they had left us. On the hand next to Mrs. 
Marguerita, I wore a valuable ring that had been presented to 
me by the ladies of the New York Medical College for Women. 
We had gone several blocks, and were not apprehending any 
further trouble from the pick-pockets, when they again came 
up behind the carriage, and one of them, climbing up on the 
back of it, made an attempt to seize my hand. Mrs. Marguerita 
rose and struck him over the head with her parasol; but even 
then they made no attempt to escape. Without a moment's 
delay I shouted at the top of my voice, ^Police/ 'police!'" which 
had the effect of scattering the thieves. I did not suppose that 
there was any one near who understood English, but I hoped 
that the noise would bring some of the Italian guards. In this 
I was not mistaken, as an officer soon came to us, who, on being 
told of our trouble, said that the driver was doubtless in league 
with the thieves. So he was held under arrest until he had 
taken us out of that street, and was then dismissed without 
being permitted to collect the fare. 

ASCENT OF MOUNT VESUVIUS. 

From Naples we drove out to Resina, a village six miles 
distant, which lies at the foot of Mount Vesuvius, where 



AROUND THE WORLD. 29 

we engaged a light conveyance drawn by two beautiful ponies. 
These little animals being strong and nimble, make the ascent 
of the mountain rapidly. 

Mount Vesuvius is situated near the Bay of Naples, and is 
about six miles from the city. It is a solitary mountain, rising 
up from the plain, having a circumference at the base of about 
thirty miles. Near the summit it divides into two cones — 
Somma and Vesuvius proper. The mountain rises by rapid 
ascent to an elevation of two thousand feet — bare and rugged 
in appearance, with its blackened and fiery sides, in striking 
contrast with the fertile region of luxuriant vineyards sur- 
rounding it. In some places it is covered with fields of lava, 
which has been scattered in a thousand fantastic shapes, 
bearing striking resemblance to animals, wierd figures, broken 
trunks, and upturned roots of old trees. In this region the 
superstitious mind has located many a spectre. 

In about an hour and a half after leaving Resina we reached 
the hermitage, a convent where a few monks keep an inn for 
visitors, to w T hom is offered the Lachrymae Christi — a luscious 
wine made from the grapes grown upon the mountain. The 
total height of the mountain ranges from three thousand five 
hundred to four thousand feet, according to the frequent 
variations made by its eruptions, which are constantly 
changing the height of the cone. The cone has at the present 
time an elevation of about fifteen hundred feet. Its sides are 
steep and uniform, and covered with lava and volcanic ash 
thrown out by the many eruptions which it has undergone. In 
the great eruption of 1822 it lost about eight hundred feet of its 
summit, most of which has been restored by subsequent 
eruptions. Visitors leave their carriages at the hermitage and 
are carried up to the crater in chairs, or make the ascent on 
foot.* Our visit was in July previous to the great eruption of 
April, 1872. Owing to th§ dense volumes of smoke and flashes 
of fire issuing from the mouth, and accompanied by rumbling 
and trembling of the cone, we were prevented from reaching 



* Since my visit to Vesuvius, an inclined railway has been constructed 
for the accommodation of visitors. The ascent is at an average of about 
fifty-three degrees. The coaches are operated by powerful steam works, 
and so arranged that while one ascends another descends until they 
meet. 



30 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

the great crater. We employed guides, who conducted us as 
far as we could go in safety. Over the lava a crust had formed 
that bore us up by our walking rapidly. We climbed over 
gnarled, knotted, and twisted fragments, and stepped from 
mass to mass while the burning lava glowed in the chinks and 
fissures. We had taken the precaution to put on thick-soled 
boots, yet our feet were blistered. Mrs. Marguerita slipped 
down, and her hand coming upon a block of hot lava, a hole 
was burned in her red glove in an instant. We reached a 
broad, open stream of molten lava, which glowed with intense 
heat, and sent forth a hot blast like that of a mighty furnace. 
Sulphurous fumes and noxious gases were emitted from small 
craters which had opened in the side of the cone. The guides 
procured specimens for us by slipping copper coins into a stick, 
split at the end, which they put into the fiery mass and twisted 
round rapidly until the coin was encrusted with the lava. 




dEa^Tin^ op -^r:ss"C"~.7'X"i3- 

The great crater presents the appearance of an 'immense pit 
or caldron, elliptical in form, dropping down into the cone to 
the depth of two thousand feet, and with a circumference of 
three miles, and a diameter of about one mile. Vesuvius has 



AROUND THE WORLD. 31 

periods of inactivity, at which times visitors may enter the 
crater and walk about over its bed, as in a deep valley. In 
some places it is covered with ashes and scorise, and in 
others it is in a molten state, glowing with heat and emitting 
noxious gases. Our illustration shows the upper portion of 
the cone, with the crater as a great basin with the bottom 
crusted with lava, while in the. center rises a second cone, 
dividing into two summits with smoking craters. 

ERUPTIONS OF VESUVIUS. 

The first recorded eruption of Vesuvius was in A. D., 79, 
when the cities of Pompeii and Herculaneum were destroyed. 
Previous to this Vesuvius was not suspected to be a volcano. 
Its sides were covered with vines and its crater partly filled 
with water, and was the stronghold of the rebel chief, 
Spartacus. In 472, A. D., an eruption occurred, being of such 
power that ashes were borne even to Constantinople, causing 
great alarm there. In 1538 the summit known as Monte 
Nuovo was forced up to the height of four hundred and 
thirteen feet in two days, with a circumference of eight 
thousand feet. One of the most famous eruptions was in 1779. 
In the spring of that year it began to pour forth lava ; this 
was followed by rumbling noises and puffs of smoke; then 
jets of ashes and red hot stones were ejected. This went on, 
increasing in intensity, until August, when it reached its 
climax. Then lava ran from the crater in torrents down 
the sides of the cone, while columns of fire shot upward to 
a height of more than two miles. Showers of stones, scorize, 
and ashes were thrown out with tremendous force, one mass of 
rock being one hundred and eight feet in circumference and 
seventeen feet high. A still more terrible eruption took place 
some fifteen years later, and various others since that time. 

In 1872 a stream of lava poured from the crater one 
thousand yards wide and twenty feet deep, which moved down 
the mountain at the rate of four miles per hour. The lava 
thrown out in this eruption would cover an area of two square 
miles to a depth of thirteen feet. 

Such destructive eruptions, by which whole cities have 
been buried and thousands of lives lost, have not been 



32 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

sufficient to prevent the people from living about this 
mountain ; and at its base and upon its sides are villages and 
country homes, aggregating a population estimated at sixteen 
hundred to the square mile. Beautiful vineyards are to be 
seen upon the mountain-side, and the ground is in a high 
state of cultivation, yielding of some vegetables three crops in 
a year. Many plants are found in this region that are not 
known elsewhere, while the mineral specimens discovered are 
greater in number than is found in an equal area in any other 
portion of the globe. 

How awfully grand, how overwhelmingly great and terrible, 
is old Vesuvius. What appalling waste, what fearful doom 
has poured forth from this burning, smoking, thundering 
mountain. Could the entombed thousands who have been 
deluged by those streams of fire and death,^awake and tell us of 
the awfulness of the hour, when, with relentless fury his wrath 
was poured out upon them, how terrible would be the story. 
Age after age his fires have been burning, until history has 
forgotten their beginning. Sinking down into quiet slumber 
for hundreds of years, proud cities have been builded at the 
mountain's base; but when trie inhabitants had forgotten God, 
and were reveling in sensuality and wickedness, in a moment 
least to be expected, streams of fire, fury, and death have been 
poured upon them, and their cities have been wasted and 
forgotten! How like the approaching judgement, when wrath 
shall be poured out upon a guilty world. 0, Vesuvius — thou 
who hast licked up the beauties that bloomed upon thy lap, and 
wasted populous cities at thy feet — how terrible has been thy 
mission upon our earth! O, when shall it be at an end? 
Thousands have been buried beneath thy mighty torrents of 
burning lava and wasting fury, and we can but wonder how 
many more will yet be overtaken. How deceitful has been thy 
slumber of ages, and oh, how terrible thy waking hours! 
Where thy fires have been gathering up their elements of 
destruction in the centuries past, and what awful dangers still 
lurk in thy bosom, none living can declare. 

THE BURIED CITIES. 

Having witnessed . something of the awful majesty of 



AROUND THE WORLD. 33 

Vesuvius, I desired to see the cities which had beeu buried in 
a vast tomb by its eruptions. Our first visit was to Pompeii, 
which is located near the base of the mountain — perhaps a 
mile away. The distance from Naples to Pompeii is about 
fourteen miles, with Vesuvius lying between the two places. 
Of the early history of Pompeii little is known. Its pop- 
ulation has been placed at about thirty thousand. At one 
period it was inhabited by the Grecians; but at the time of its 
destruction it was the home of wealthy Romans. On 
February fifth, A. D. 63, the city was seriously damaged by an 
earthquake, and it was totally destroyed by a terrible Vesuvian 
eruption, occurring August twenty-fourth, A. D. 79. In its 
destruction there first came a shower of ashes three feet deep, 
followed by another of red hot cinders, sand, and ashes, 
aggregating a depth of eight feet. This was increased by oft 
repeated eruptions and the accumulation of centuries, until it 
became buried to the depth of from fifteen to twenty feet 
above the tops of the houses. 

For more than sixteen hundred years this doomed city was 
lost to the world — even for centuries the very site was 
unknown. The terrible eruption of Vesuvius had hurled 
back the Sarnus river from its ancient bed, giving it a course 
some distance from the city, whose walls it was wont 
to skirt. By the same convulsion the sea-beach was heaved 
up to a considerable height, extending the coast into the bay a 
mile away from where fishermen used to spread their nets. 
These changes increased the difficulty of discovering the true 
position of Pompeii. In A. D. 1689 some ruins were noticed, 
but excavations were not made until A. D. 1775. Since that 
date they have been continued until the present time, and of 
late with increased energy. About half the ruins have been 
uncovered, and they exhibit a true picture of a Roman city, 
with its temples, baths, theaters, basilicas, and courts of 
justice. The showers of ashes, sand, and cinders, so com- 
pletely covering the place, and finding way into every nook 
and corner, as it were, hermetically sealed it, owing to which 
fact the ruins are in a remarkably good state of preservation. 
The city is surrounded by a wall about two miles in circum- 
ference, with six gates and eleven towers. In the autumn of 



34 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

1864 more than two hundred skeletons were found in the 
temple of Juno, whither the victims had evidently gone to 
implore the protection of the goddess. In another place was 
the villa of Diomedes, where his skeleton, and that of his 
attendant were found, one holding in his hand the keys of the 
villa, and the other a purse containing one hundred gold and 
silver coins. The catastrophe was so sudden that in one house 
seven persons, in their attempts to escape, were pressed against 
the wall by the flood of ashes and scorise, where the outline of 
their forms may still be seen like a dark shadow. The houses 
that have been excavated are roofless, but the walls are in a 
good state of preservation, while many of the frescoes and 
paintings are still quite perfect. Like modern Italian 
dwellings, the rooms are arranged around a court, into which 
they open. Many of the floors are paved with marble, in 
mosaic of different patterns. The name of the owner is carved 
on the stone door-sill of many of the dwellings. In one wine 
shop, is a marble counter with the stains of the glasses yet 
upon it. In a baker's shop the oven is still in a state of 
preservation, containing loaves of bread. In other shops are 
large wine and oil jars. The baths are very spacious and 
elegant, divided into various apartments, and adorned with 
fountains and statues of marble and bronze. In one of these 
a thousand lamps were found, and a basin ten feet in diameter, 
lined with white marble. In one portion of the town there is 
an amphitheater with a seating capacity for ten thousand 
people. This building is more ancient than the coliseum at 
Rome, which was not completed until a year after the destruc- 
tion of Pompeii. The forum — now an imposing ruin — was a 
most magnificent building. In the sentry-box near the forum, 
were found the remains of a guard, with his skeleton hand 
still grasping a lance. In the prison were two skeletons in 
chains. Others were found inclosed in molds of volcanic paste, 
which preserved the individual forms. Into these molds 
plaster of paris was run, by which perfect casts have been 
obtained. I secured a photograph showing one with the hands 
spread in an attitude of great terror, and the other with his 
face buried in his hands, just as he fell on that dreadful night. 
The streets of Pompeii are narrow, and the pavements are 



AROUND THE WORLD. 35 

deeply grooved by the wheels of the carriages which rolled 
through them centuries ago. Here stands the old stone pump, 
worn by the hands of those who stopped to quench their 
thirst so long ago. As we walked through this ancient — this 
mysterious city of the dead — treading the halls which for long 
ages have been silent — panoramic views of the awful scenes 
of that fateful night rolled before our vision. 

RUINS OF HERCULANEUM. 

On my return from Pompeii to Naples, I visited the ruins of 
Herculaneum. This city was buried by the eruptions of 
Vesuvius at the same time that Pompeii was destroyed. It is 
located a little more than five miles east of Naples, at the base 
of the mountain. It was overwhelmed by mighty torrents of 
volcanic mud, or tufa, and is now buried at a depth of from 
seventy to one hundred and twenty feet. Like Pompeii, its 
site was long lost to the world, and above its ruins, on the 
modern surface, have sprung up the two large villages of 
Portici and Resina. In this latter village in 1706, on the 
occasion of deepening a well, some remnants of mosaics were 
brought up, which proved to be from the theater. It was not 
until 1738 that systematic excavations were made. Owing to 
the great depth of the ruins and the hardness of the tufa, 
and the fear of undermining the dwellings, the excavations 
have been carried on to only a limited extent. The theater 
has been fully explored, and from it several statues, both in 
bronze and marble, have been obtained. This building was 
quite large, containing eighteen rows of stone seats, sufficient 
to accommodate eight thousand persons. A basilica, some 
temples, and a villa have been discovered, and from them 
many remarkable paintings and other treasures have been 
obtained. 



36 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



CHAPTER IV. 

Mount Cenis and its Railway — Difficulties in Travel — 
Paris After the Siege — Dublin — Edinburg — Monument 
of Sir Walter Scott — Second Voyage Across the 
Atlantic — Our Captain Lost at Sea — Again in New 
York. 

From Naples we returned to Rome, where I remained a few 
days, before going to Paris. My route from Italy to France 
took me again across the Alps. At Susa — a city of Northern 
Italy, with a little more than three thousand population — I 
stopped during the night. The town stands at the foot of the 
Cottian Alps, on the right bank of the Dora Riparia. It is of 
very ancient date, and was founded by the Celts. In it stands 
a cathedral consecrated in 1028, more than eight hundred and 
fifty years ago. The road over Mount Cenis — opened in 1810 
— begins here. The Alpine scenery about Susa is very grand. 
Some of the mountain peaks rise up grandly and reach the 
limit of perpetual frosts. On the lower hills are forests of 
evergreens. Down the mountain sides, through deep ravines 
and over granite walls, come leaping and roaring torrents, fed 
from the melting snows above. 

MOUNT CENIS AND ITS RAILWAY. 

The balmy coolness of the air, the music of the water-falls, 
the delightful grandeur of nature, all seemed admirably fitted 
to induce quiet and refreshing slumber. When the morning 
had dawned we were ready to commence the * ascent of Mount 
Cenis. From Susa our train was a lighter one, with but 
one passenger coach. With a circuitous way, we went 
winding about the mountain side, ascending higher and 



* A tunnel nine miles in length has been cut through the rnountain 7 
and the principal travel is now along this route. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 37 

higher, until we could look down on the valley stretching -out 
far below us, like one grand panorama. The culminating 
point of the pass on Mount Ceni- reaches a height of six 
thousand seven hundred and seventy-five feet above the sea. 
It is the safest and most frequented road across the Alps. 

This pass is the site of a remarkable railroad enterprise. An 
English engineer, under permission from the Italian and 
French governments, constructed a railway extending over 
the Alps along Napoleon's carriage-road. The railing is laid 
in the ordinary way, with the addition of a third rail between 
the two outer ones, but raised nearly a foot higher. The 
driving-wheels strong, y grip this rail, by which means the 
trains safely traverse very sharp curves and descend grades as 
steep as one foot in twelve. From Susa, for a distance of some 
twenty miles, the road runs over curves so numerous and so 
sharp that the scene is changed nearly every minute. On the 
summit of this route there are some five miles of nearly level 
road. On the French side the descent is about five thousand 
feet in seven miles. The trains descend by the force of their 
own weight, the speed being regulated by the brakes. This 
road has since been superseded by one running through the 
great tunnel. 

DIFFICULTIES IN TRAVEL. 

Passports were demanded at the station on the frontier of 
France. Many passengers, not aware that this system was in 
force, had failed to provide themselves with passes, and were 
compelled to wait until they could be procured from their 
nearest consulates. Being myself without a pass, I should 
have shared the same fate but for the kindness of a French 
family, who were also going to Paris, and who took me through 
on their passport. 

The difficulties of traveling in foreign countries without a 
knowledge of the languages, may be illustrated by the 
following incident: A pastor of one of the churches in New 
York, who was in great haste to return home, had for two 
days been detained on the way, and w r as then carried back to 
Susa, resulting from his lack of a knowledge of French and 
German. He was rejoiced to find that I could interpret tor 



38 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

him, and joined our party until we reached Paris. Some 
persons who are close observers and quick to comprehend, do 
succeed with but little knowledge of foreign languages, as did 
the Englishman who knew but two words in German — the 
one being brod, for bread; the other bett, for bed; and, as he 
said, "traveled all through Germany, ate plenty, slept well, 
and grew fat." 

PARIS AFTER THE SIEGE. 

The time of our arrival at Paris was just after the fall of the 
Commune. During the siege of the city food had become so 
scarce that many of the horses had been served up under the 
name of beef-steak, and I was subject to much delay after 
reaching the place, before I could obtain a cab to take me to 
the hotel. During my stay here I visited a number of the 
principal places of interest, including the ruins of many 
elegant buildings, monuments of art, and the mounds where 
the recent slain were buried. I visited the streets where six 
hundred people had been drawn up in line and shot down. 
The communists of Paris had been surrounded on the twenty- 
second of May by an army ninety thousand strong, and after 
five days fighting they were compelled to surrender, and 
twenty-five thousand of them were taken prisoners; some of 
whom were put to death and others sentenced to banishment. 

When we arrived in Paris the clash of arms had barely 
ceased, and the smoke was still rising from some of the ruins. 
Fierce animosities seemed only like the slumber of volcanic 
fires, ready to break forth at any moment. As I visited Paris 
on subsequent occasions, I think it best to defer further 
description to my second tour. 

From Paris I set out for London. That I might not be 
detained on my journey, I went to the American ambassador 
and obtained a passport before leaving. On arriving at 
London I went to the Friends' Institute, where I w r as a 
guest during the several weeks that I spent in the city. On 
subsequent tours I visited London six times, and also made 
my home there during the past year. I shall therefore devote 
an entire chapter to London and travels in England. 

From London 1 went to Dublin to visit the hospitals. I 



AROUND THE WORLD. 39 

was received with much courtesy by the medical professors, 
and favored with opportunities to learn the general manage- 
ment of the hospitals. The intelligence, hospitality, and 
refinement of the better class of the Irish impressed me very 
favorably. 

DUBLIN. 

Dublin covers an area of thirteen hundred acres. Its 
parliamentary boundary comprises about five thousand acres. 
Much of the land upon which the city is built is reclaimed 
from the sea. In the newer portions of the city the streets are 
remarkable for their breadth and beauty. The most imposing 
one is Sackville street, which is one hundred and twenty feet 
wide. Dublin has numerous and spacious squares which are 
well kept. Among its parks is the Phoenix — noted in Irish 
history as the scene of many tragic events — with a magnificent 
area of nearly two thousand acres. In some parts the park is 
level, in others broken; and it has a large amount of timber 
and brushwood, sheltering immense herds of deer. One 
peculiar feature of Dublin is its squares, which are numerous, 
spacious, and kept in neat order. The public buildings are 
famed for their number and grandeur. 

The River Liffey runs through the town, dividing it into two 
equal parts. Throughout the whole of the city the river is 
faced with granite walls and parapets. 

The environs of Dublin are splendid; in fact the city 
as a whole, with its magnificent bay — in beauty often 
compared to that of Naples — its massive public buildings, 
spacious squares, clean and elegant quays, splendid parks, 
and palatial residences, is. one of the most attractive and 
delightful capitals of Europe. More than one-half of the 
population are catholics. 

The common class of Irish in America, especially those who 
have largely made our railroads and public highways — 
although by this they have added much to the development 
of our national resources — are by no means to be taken as an 
average of the Irish people. The opinion generally held by 
Americans that our railroad-Irish are a fair type of the people 
in Ireland, is as void of truth as the opinion of the doctor in 



40 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

London, who said, "I should never have fancied you were 
from the States, as you do not use slang phrases.' 1 

EDINBURG. 

From Dublin I went to Edinburg — -the capital of Scotland. 
While tnere I was a guest in the family of Mr. Maclaren, who 
was at that time a member of Parliament. Mrs. Maclaren, 
being deeply interested in the contest that was going on 
with reference to the admission of ladies to the privileges and 
degrees of the medical department of the University of 
Edinburg — and having learned that I had been admitted to 
the advantages of the great hospital and University of Vienna 
— visited me while I was in London. I had received an invita- 
tion to make my home with them when I went to Edinburg, 
and upon my arrival I found they were expecting a lengthy 
stay from me. They had planned various excursions, and 
Miss Maclaren took me in the carriage for daily drives, until I 
had seen the chief public buildings, scientific institutions, and 
places of historical note in the city. 

Edinburg is called the "Modern Athens" — a name appro- 
priately applied. Like Athens, it is a famous seat of science 
and literature, and the center of important historical associa- 
tions. It is unrivaled among the cities of the north in beauty 
of location, in gracefulness of architecture, and in the number 
of its monuments. 

Edinburg was once a fortified city, and from this cause it 
became densely populated, the buildings rising to an unusual 
height that the people might rind place within the walls for 
the sake of protection. Most of the houses consisted of a suc- 
cession of floors— -each being a separate dwelling — and often 
rising to ten <>r twelve stories. Their height is rendered still 
more imposing by reason of being built on an eminence. 

Many modern improvements have been made to Edinburg, 
and these portions of the town possess much regularity. The 
buildings are erected of durable sandstone from neighboring- 
quarries, and present an appearance of great solidity. 

i visited the castle, which stands upon a rock several 
hundred feet high. This quaint-looking building was, at a 
remote period, used as a. fortress, and then as a royal palace. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



41 



We were shown the apartments of Mary, Queen of Scots, and 
the room where James VI. was born in 1566. He was the last 
of the monarchs of Scotland, and although attempts were made 
to destroy Ids life, he became the first ruler of the United 





Xv£©I>TT7 - :C^r:E3iTT OS SIS TTTV^IjTSS SCOTT. 

Kingdom of Great Britain. The castle contains the parliament 
house, and in it are kept the ancient regalia of Scotland, the 
crowns, coronation robes, and jewels, the sword of state, and 



42 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

the scepter. In the castle grounds lies the great cannon, called 
"Mons Meg," which was captured in the war of 1497. 

Holyrood Palace was the favorite home of the Scottish 
sovereigns, and dates from 1128. The apartments of Queen 
Mary are kept, with the furniture, as she left them. In the 
little silver crib of the infant king is still to be seen the silk 
patch-work which she made. A stain on the floor in one of 
the rooms is pointed out as Rizzio's blood, and is said to be 
the place where the Italian musician, the queen's favorite, was 
slain. 

The monument to Sir Walter Scott is one of the finest and 
most artistic in the British Isles. It is in the form of a 
monumental cross, two hundred feet high, with four arches, 
that support the tower. Beneath the central arch stands a 
marble statue of Sir Walter Scott and his dog, Maida. It is a 
master piece of art, which cost ten thousand dollars, while the 
monument cost seventy-eight thousand two hundred and fifty 
dollars. 

Among the venerated buildings of Edinburg is the house of 
John Knox, Scotland's great reformer. He lived during the 
sixteenth century, and was contemporary with Luther of 
Germany, and Calvin of Switzerland. We approached the 
old house reverently; for, as the poet says, ''Time consecrates, 
and what is gray with age becomes religious." The house is 
four stories high, including the attic. It has projecting 
windows and a stairway on the outside. 

SECOND VOYAGE ACROSS THE ATLANTIC. 

From Edinburg I went to Glasgow, where I embarked on 
the Britannia for New York. Among the passengers was a 
French lady whose trunk had been put into the hold of 
the vessel. On seeing the men lower larger trunks she became 
alarmed, fearing that hers would be crushed and her treasures 
lost. She appealed to them in most earnest terms to restore 
to her the trunk. The sailors not understanding French, 
went on with their work, and her appeals were of no avail. 
Addressing her in her native tongue, I offered my assistance, 
which she received with the deepest gratitude. I spoke to the 
captain about it, and her trunk was soon sent to her state- 



AROUND THE WORLD. 43 

room in good condition, by which she was greatly rejoiced. 
But a sad misfortune awaited her in New York. When she 
landed she was beset by a bevy of hotel runners and hack- 
drivers, and at last she fell into the hands of a set of rascals, 
who succeeded in robbing her of her trunk and all her 
cherished mementoes. 

OUR CAPTAIN LOST AT SEA. 

The captain of the Britannia was first officer of the India at 
the time I went to Europe. He had been promoted during 
the summer to the office of captain of the Britannia. Our 
voyage was a delightful one, and the hours went merrily by 
until we were near the middle of the Atlantic. One day 
while we were at the dinner table, our vessel was struck by a 
gale and everything was set in commotion. The captain put 
on his water-proof coat and sea boots, and went on deck. 
Little did we think that he was wrapping himself in a winding 
sheet for a tomb beneath the ocean-waves, and yet such proved 
his sad fate. Two ladies ventured on deck, and one of them, 
seeing her husband sea-sick and holding to the bulwarks, 
started toward him. At this moment a wave struck the 
steamer, and the lady was dashed against the railing and was 
falling overboard, when the captain sprang forward and 
caught her by one arm, and with the aid of her husband 
saved her from a watery grave. Not so with our captain. 
Losing his hold, he was plunged into an angry sea. For a 
moment he was seen with his pale face turned toward the 
ship, trying to swim; but alas! the waves dashed over him 
and we saw him no more. The alarm was given, the steamer 
was stopped, life-preservers and buoys were thrown out, the 
life-boat was lowered and the mate and three men went out 
dashing among the waves. The boat sank from sight, and 
then rose again, buffeted by the billows like a toy at their 
mercy. Knowing that all attempts to save the captain were 
useless, and that others were only risking their lives in vain, 
the passengers had a signal given for them to return. Just as 
they sprang on deck the life-boat was dashed to pieces against 
.the side of the steamer. The storm passed, and we reached the 
port in safety. But how sad the news that was borne back 



44 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

to a widowed mother in Glasgow, that her only son — the 
bright promise of her life — had been thus suddenly and 
sadly cut off in the glory and strength of his youth. 

After the loss of our captain, the mate took command of the 
vessel. Through the remainder of our journey the weather 
was fine, the sea calm, and we had a delightful voyage. Our 
vessel rode gaily into port, and I was again among my friends 
in New York. 

POSITION IN THE COLLEGE. 

Soon after my arrival, the opening exercises of the winter 
term of the New York Medical College for Women took place. 
At this meeting I delivered my first public address. I had 
been duly elected as a professor and physician of the college, 
and was warmly greeted by many friends who awaited my 
return. To the duties of the position to which I had been 
chosen I gave myself with untiring devotion, until in the 
month of February I was prostrated by Cerebro- Spinal 
Meningitis — a disease which prevailed in the city. For many 
days my physician despaired my recovery. After the acute 
stage of the disease was past, paralysis supervened, lasting 
for two months. During the summer my health was partially 
restored, and I again took my place in the college for the 
ensuing winter; but I was soon convinced that only rest, 
change, and travel would bring full return of health. With 
this in view, and with a desire for further study and research, 
I left New York for a second tour in Europe, which led to my 
travels in other lands, and to my tour around the world. On 
this I was accompanied by my husband, Rufus Gibbon Wells, 
himself a distinguished traveler, lecturer, and writer. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 45 



SECOND TOUR-EUROPE. 



CHAPT E R I. 



Muller's Work of Faith — One Day in Bristol — 
Grandeur of Paris — Column Vendome — Cathedral 
of Notre Dame. 

JN the twenty-seventh of March, 1873, I sailed on the 
steamer Arragon, from New York for England. There 
were no heavy storms, but frequent gales on the voyage. 
Dark, lowering clouds and the angry-swelling billows seemed 
to lock together, closing our vision from the great world of 
waters. Sea birds circled about our vessel, and swooping 
down, flapped their white wings on the black, surging waves. 
An incident in my own experience may serve to illustrate the 
motion of the steamer in riding over rough seas. One 
morning, on stepping out of my state-room, the rolling of the 
steamer dashed me across the cabin against the wall on the 
opposite side. Before I could recover, another wave struck the 
vessel, giving it a sudden bound, and sending me back to the 
place from whence I was first thrown. 

MULLER'S WORK OF FAITH. 

After a voyage of fifteen days we reached the mouth of the 
Avon late in the evening, where we anchored until morning. 
We then sailed up the river and landed at Bristol. Our readers 
Avill remember that the world-renowned Muller Orphanage is 
located here. The history of this work is of so remarkable a 
character that I cannot refrain from making a few statements 
with regard thereto. George Muller — its founder — while 
pastor of a church, gave up his pew rents and depended wholly 
on voluntary contributions for his support. His means were 



4G TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

often reduced to a few shillings; but he made his wants known 
only to the Lord, and they were always supplied. His faith in 
God continued to increase, and his heart went out in sympathy 
for poor orphan children. In 1835 he published a proposal to 
erect an orphan -house for destitute children bereft of both 
parents. Without solicitation the means were furnished, and 
on May eighteenth, 1836, his first orphan-house was opened. 
In one year there were sixty-four children in the home, for 
the support of which funds were voluntarily given. Other 
additions were made to the buildings, and at the end of 1838 
there were eighty-six orphans therein. The work went on, 
growing in magnitude and interest, until in 1856 the 
inmates numbered two hundred and ninety -seven. In 1875 
there were two thousand children lodged, fed, and educated in 
the "Orphan Homes" under the care of Mr. Muller. All this 
has been done without a shilling of endowment, without a 
committee, and without an organization. The means have been 
unsolicited, but have been drawn from all parts of the world. 
Mr. Muller refuses to make any appeal, or hold any meetings 
to solicit funds, but relies wholly on the efficacy of faith and 
prayer. He believes that he is an instrument in God's hand, 
called to this work of faith, and refuses to issue advertisements 
or hand-bills setting forth his needs. With hundreds of 
orphan children dependent upon him to be warmed and 
fed and cared for, and at times with his supplies all 
exhausted — with unwavering faith he has gone to God in 
earnest prayer, and means to carry on the work have always 
been supplied. 

ONE DAY IN BRISTOL. 

I spent but one day in this city, visiting some of the 
principal places of interest, among which was the Cathedral 
and the ancient church of St. Mary's Redcliffe, noted for its 
fine Gothic architecture. The Avon river, with its beautiful 
scenery, has upon its bank the town of Stratford, famed 
for being the birth-place, home, and burial-place of Shakes- 
peare. 

From Bristol I went to Paris, stopping over night at London. 
It was on the morning of April twelfth that I left London. I 



AROUND THE WORLD. 47 

took the train over the Dover & Calais Railway, reaching the 
French metropolis the same evening. 

In my journey through England and into the heart of 
France, I was delighted with the country, clothed in the 
beauties of spring, contrasting so agreeably with the ice and 
snow in New York. In this brilliant capital I spent more 
than four months. Obtaining tickets from the administra- 
tion, I attended the clinics of the different hospitals in the city. 
These are held by some of the most eminent and skillful 
doctors of medicine in Europe. 

GRANDEUR OF PARIS. 

It has been said of Paris that "as a city, it is the crowning 
glory of the earth; it is beauty, brilliancy, grandeur, and 
splendor all harmoniously combined." Also, that "Paris is as 
sublime and inexhaustible as the ocean. Man appears to have 
done enough in Paris to astonish the earth and heaven 
together." That we may realize the force of these expressions 
we have only to view the wonders of this marvelous city. We 
may take for our place of starting the Arc de VEtoile. This is 
one of the grandest triumphal arches in the world. It was 
designed by Napoleon I. to commemorate his campaigns and 
conquests. He began its erection in 1806, but it was not 
completed until 1836. The total expense amounts to more 
than two million dollars. It is one hundred and fifty-two feet 
in height, and one hundred and thirty-seven in breadth, and 
is profusely adorned with groups of statuary, in which some 
of the figures are eighteen feet high. 

Radiating from this arch are twelve grand boulevards, which 
traverse the city. It was. left for Napoleon III. to beautify 
Paris with these splendid and commodious streets with their 
magnificent buildings of the most graceful and approved style 
of modern architecture. Commencing also at the arch, is the 
grand avenue Imperatrice — nearly one mile in length and 
one thousand feet wide — which leads to the Bois de Bologne, 
the favorite park of the city. On reaching the summit of this 
grand arch of triumph, the beholder is enraptured with the 
view of Paris, which lies mapped out below him like a 
charming panorama. 



f.s 



TES VEAKS' TRAVEL 



Through the midst of the city flows the Seine. It is 
spanned by twenty -eight bridges, all handsome structures, 
adorned with military and naval statues. These are com- 
memorative of events and victories achieved during the 
imperial days of France. The banks of the Seine and the 
avenues are planted with trees and adorned with fountains 
and statues, and furnished with seats. The palaces, public- 
squares, and monuments viewed from the top of the Arc de 
Ij Etoile give special beauty to the city. The public buildings, 
as well as the private dwellings, are built of a light-colored 
limestone, easily wrought and carved. They are arranged in 
blocks, rising to the height of six or seven stories. Each 
floor constitutes a distinct dwelling, to which access is gained 
by a common stairway. A porter, having charge of the various 
apartments, has his room at the entrance. 




rF'Xj^.ciE: 



COITCOSUB. 

Most noted among the public squares is the Place de la 
Concorde. It connects the gardens of the Tuileries with the 
Champs Elysees, and embraces a magnificent view of some of 
the finest buildings and gardens of Paris. In the center stands 
the famous obelisk of Luxor — a granite column made from a 



AROUND THE WORLD. 49 

single stone, seventy-three feet high, covered with hieroglyphics. 
It is one of the monoliths that stood in front of the great 
temple of ancient Thebes — the modern Luxor — where it was 
erected fifteen hundred and fifty years before Christ, by 
Sesostris, or Rameses III. This monument stand-; on the site 
of the guillotine erected during the "Reign of Terror," in the 
latter part of the eighteenth century. By this instrument 
of death were beheaded Louis XVI. and his unfortunate queen, 
Marie Antoinette, Beauharnais — husband of Josephine — and 
three thousand men and women of different ranks in life, and 
finally the tyrant Robespierre — the leader of the Jacobins. 

The palaces of Paris are marvels of architectural beauty. 
On the banks of the Seine in the center of the city, stood the 
renowned palaces of the Tuileries, and the Louvre. In the 
halls of these buildings shone wealth, beauty and brilliancy, 
adorning France during three centuries of her imperial 
greatness. The Tuileries were set on fire during the war of the 
Commune, and it is now r a picturesque and imposing ruin. The 
palace of the Louvre was enriched by the various French 
sovereigns from the time of Francis I. When Napoleon's 
victories in Italy gave him the spoils of its works of art, he 
restored the Louvre and made it the repository of the art 
works of France. Its museums and galleries now embrace the 
most extensive and valued works of art in the world, the 
collection having been made chiefly during the present 
century. 

The palace of Luxembourg, built in the early part of the 
seventeenth century by Marie de Medicis, is also used as a 
treasury of art. It contains many choice works of living 
artists. The garden of Luxembourg is adorned with fountains, 
flowers and orange trees. Upon these terraces stand twenty 
statues in marble of celebrated French women. In this garden 
is the national observatory, in which is a new telescope — one 
of the largest in the world — costing nearly forty thousand 
dollars. 

COLUMN VKNDOME. 

One of the grandest monuments erected by Napoleon I. was 
the Column Vendome. This was thrown down and broken 

7 



50 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

during the war of the Commune, but it has since been 
restored. It was erected in commemoration of the campaign of 
Austerlitz. The height is one hundred and thirty-five feet. 
The original casing of the monument was composed of 
twelve hundred pieces of cannon, taken from the Russian and 
Austrian armies by Napoleon. The column is set with two 
thousand statues, three feet high, arranged on the column in 
spiral form, from the bottom to the top, and displaying in 
chronological order the principal battles of Napoleon, an 
imposing statue of whom stands on the top of the column. 

CATHEDRAL OF NOTRE DAME. 

First among the churches of Paris is the Cathedral of Notre 
Dame. Its age, the majesty of its proportions, and the stirring 
scenes of more than seven centuries, during which time it has 
stood, make it one of the most remarkable monuments of 
the world. History, indeed, does not reach back to the time 
when its site was not occupied by a sanctuary. As early as 
the year A. D. 375 the ruins of a temple and other relics of 
pagan worship were found here; and on this site was erected 
achurch, supposed to have been the first Christian sanctuary 
in Northern France. The first glass window now known in 
France was placed in a church erected here in the year A. D. 
520. 

In A. D. 1163 the foundations of the present cathedral were 
laid. Its corner stone was placed by the hands of Pope 
Alexander III. The work was pushed rapidly, and the body 
of the church completed in a little less than twenty years. 
Yet the grandest part of the cathedral — its western front 
with the two towers — was commenced only in A. D. 1208. 
It rose at about the rate of one story in a generation. Other 
portions of the building were erected during succeeding 
centuries. This vast edifice is four hundred and thirt} r feet 
long, and one hundred and seventy feet wide at the transept. 
tt covers an area of more than sixty-four thousand square 
feet, and its towers are two hundred and twenty-three feet 
high. The year 1882 was the seven hundredth anniversary 
of its consecration. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 51 

In 1804 the brilliant and imposing ceremonies of the coro- 
nation of Napoleon I. and Josephine took place in this 
cathedral. It has stood to witness the glory and fall of 
Napoleon's empire, and the subsequent revolutions by which 
Paris has suffered. The coronation robes of Napoleon and 
Josephine are kept in one of the chapels in the building. By 
paying a small gratuity we were permitted to view them. The 
cathedral is richly embellished with statues, paintings, frescoes, 
and finely colored glass, making it like a grand gallery of art, 



•52 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



CHAPTER II. 

The Pantheon — Church of the Madeleine — National 
Burying -ground — Pick -pocket Disappointed — Easter 
and its Festivals- — Gobelin's Cloth. 

Wa OVERS of history delight to visit the Hotel des Invalides 
if If — the home of invalid and disabled soldiers — where lie 
53^ the mortal remains of Napoleon I. He was buried here 
in accordance with his last request while in the solitude of his 
exile at St. Helena, that his "ashes might repose upon the 
banks of the Seine in the midst of the French people whom 
he loved." The tomb is in the church St. Louis — the chapel 
of the "Soldiers Home." Entering the door of the chapel, 
before us appears an open marble vault, which contains the 
tomb of Napoleon. This rests upon a green granite base; a 
flight of white marble stairs leads down to it. The vault is in 
circular form, and around its sides stand twelve colossal 
statues representing the emperor's twelve principal victories. 
Around this vault, and rising up from the floor of the chapel, 
is a white marble railing. On the tomb lie the sword and hat 
of the great general. On one side of the chapel, in a black 
marble vault, stands a white marble statue of Napoleon, 
clothed in coronation robes, and holding the sword of 
Austerlitz. These various works of art are the grandest 
monuments ever ei-ected to military genius. 

THE PANTHEON. 

The Pantheon is a magnificent and imposing temple. It 
was built in 1757, modeled from the Pantheon at Rome, from 
which it takes its name. It was dedicated to. the great men of 
the nation, but was restored to the church by Napoleon III. 
and rededicated to St. Genevieve, the patroness of Paris, and 
is now used as a church. The Pantheon stands on the highest 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



53 



eminence in the city. Its dome was a good mark for the balls 
of the Prussians during the siege of Paris, but fortunately it 
was but little damaged. 




One of the grandest buildings in Paris is the Madeleine. It 
is three hundred feet in length and is one of the most perfect 
models of ancient Greek architecture. It is entirely sur- 



54 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

rounded by a row of magnificent Corinthian columns, seven 
feet in diameter and fifty feet high. Above the columns, and 
in a recess at the end of the building, there is a magnificent 
group of statuary. The interior is gorgeously furnished with 
gildings, frescoes, carvings and marble statues. Over the 
grand altar is a magnificent figure representing Christ, sur- 
rounded by a group of angels, all in white marble. 

This edifice was commenced by Louis XV. Napoleon I. 
converted it into a temple of glory and dedicated it to the 
grand army. It lias since been restored and is now used as a 
church. We attended the illumination of the Madeleine one 
Christmas eve. The services were grand and imposing. Large 
wax candles, several feet in height, and ornamented with 
figures and inscriptions, and set in silver sockets, were placed 
in various parts of the building, with several groups of 
smaller ones. The priests were arrayed in costly robes, set 
with glittering trappings. The m.usic was given by the 
orchestra, the exercises continuing until after midnight. 

Pere la Chase — the national buryinsj ground, embraces an 
area of one hundred acres. Its walks and streets are paved, 
and the tombs which are above ground, are arranged in rows 
along their sides. As we passed through the cemetery we truly 
felt that this was the city of the dead. The number buried here 
is equal to about one- half of the population of Paris. It is the 
custom in France for the mourners to walk in the funeral 
procession with uncovered heads. During the Christmas 
holidays, the funeral of the son of Victor Hugo took place in 
this cemetery, which we attended. It was affecting to see the 
distinguished author — father of the deceased — walking through 
the streets on a cold day without his hat. 

A PICK-POCKET DISAPPOINTED. 

On my way from the funeral I looped up my skirt to keep 
it from being soiled. While looking at some curiosities 
arranged on the side-walk, where the people gathered in 
crowds, a whole loop of my dress — a good black silk moire— 
was cut away by a professional pick-pocket. No doubt he was 



AROUND THE WORLD. 55 

a little disappointed when he found that the piece taken was 
only a fold of the dress and not my pocket. 

EASTER AND ITS FESTIVALS. 

On this day I attended service at the Madeleine and other 
churches. The altars were decorated in artistic style, with 
flowers, wax candles, laces, and eucharistic ornaments, named 
" le tombecm " — the tomb. 

In the church St. Eustache, I observed a number of people 
kneeling before an altar, above which were inscribed the words, 
"messes pour les arnes du purgatoire" — which interpreted means 
"prayers for souls in purgatory." This may serve as an 
example to illustrate the depth of ignorance and superstition 
which prevails in the Romish church. The belief that the 
priest is able to pray a soul out of purgatory is very deep- 
seated among the members of the church. One means of 
being delivered from sin extensively practiced, is to buy a 
candle and place it before the image of some saint, and offer 
prayer while it burns. It is astonishing, and even appalling to 
learn how much liberty of sinful thought and action is 
indulged where such systems of faith prevail. 

The Monday after Easter is the opening day of the gay 
season in Paris. During the forty days of Lent, just 
preceeding Easter, festivities are but little engaged in, and 
business is quite dull. It is a time of general church-going by 
Catholics, and religious rites are much observed. After Easter 
every body seems relieved from religious restraint, and general 
gayety prevails. The opening of the races takes place in the 
park, and is attended by the elite of the city, at which 
time the Parisians turn ouc to display their spring fashions. 
At such times the avenues are thronged with pleasure seekers 
in carriages, on horseback and on foot, and serious accidents 
sometimes occur; for when least expected shafts of death 
are hurled amidst the dazzling crowd. At the time I attended 
this annual fete, a gentleman on horseback met with a fatal 
accident, by his horse rearing and falling backward upon him 
and crushing him. Brandy and water were administered, he 
opened his eyes and breathed for a moment, but was soon 
dead. 



56 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

France is a great wine producing country, and in the HalU 
aux Vins of Paris, is stored the choice wines. The hall is 
divided into streets, each street being named according to the 
wine its division contains. There are ninety cellars in the 
building, with a capacity for four hundred and fifty thousand 
casks. 

GOBELIN'S CLOTH. 

Among the interesting manufactories of Paris is that of the 
Gobelins, where a kind of rich tapestry is made from original 
patterns of finest paintings, which are often of so intricate a 
nature and such a variety of colors, that a single piece requires 
the labor of from two to six years to complete it, and the cost 
amounts to a sum of from twenty thousand to forty thousand 
dollars. To produce the cloth, a series of threads is arranged 
vertically in a frame like the warp of a loom. The pattern 
is placed near the workman for reference. To form the 
design, he has a number of wooden needles threaded with the 
material and colors required, and these are passed through the 
upright warp-threads until the necessary colors are woven in. 
It is done with such nicety and perfection, that but little 
difference can be detected between the tapestry picture and the 
painting from which it was copied. 

We were in Paris during a change of administration. It was 
at the time of the resignation of M. Thiers, and the accession 
of McMahon. A revolution was hourly expected to break out, 
and the city was placed under military control. An attempt 
at insurrection was made, and after the hour of midnight a 
force w r as called out to quell it, making the streets resound 
with the tramp of horses, the mustering of troops and the 
clang of arms. 

At Versailles, twelve miles from Paris, is one of the most 
noted and historic palaces of France. It was used as a 
national museum. It has several miles of rooms and galleries 
filled with works of art. The park, with its grand avenues, 
fountains and kiosks, is the most lamed in Europe. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 57 



CHAPTER III. 

In Northern Waters — Sunny Italy — Lingering Twilight 
— Sights in Denmark — Difficulties of Passports — A 
Drunkard's Awful Fate — The Drosky and Driver— 
The Light-house — A Light m the Window. 

fROM Paris we set out for St. Petersburg, stopping on the 
way at Rouen, Havre, Copenhagen, and Cronstadt. At 
-j^ Rouen I spent one day, visiting the various places of 
interest, among them the statue of Joan d' Arc, who was 
burned alive at the stake in A. D. 1431, as a witch, in the square 
of the city. Havre is ®ne hundred and thirty-four miles from 
Paris by rail. Next to Marseilles, it is the chief emporium 
of France, and was founded by Louis XII. in A. D. 1509, 

IN NORTHERN WATERS, 

We sailed from Havre through the English Channel and 
the Straits of Dover, across the North Sea, and through the 
channels Sagerack and Categat, which lie between Denmark, 
Norway, and Sweden. In four days we reached latitude 60°, 
north of Denmark. It was in the month of June, and the 
waters which are ice-bound half the year, were charming as 
an inland sea. The atmosphere was warmer than that of 
London or Paris— balmy even as sunny Italy. The gorgeous 
sunsets were like those of a tropical land. The hues of the 
rainbow illumined the clouds, and the waters were smooth as a 
mirror. It was in the season of the long days, when twilight 
lasts all night. While we waited in the stillness, watching 
the glories of the departing day, with their hallowed and 
enchanting influence, a stronger light broke upon the scene. 
Long, luminous bands of glowing colors — radiant and spark- 
ling — shot upward, and with the heavens all aglow, the sun 
again appeared above the horizon. 

On the coast of Denmark we passed the town of Elsinore, 



o<n TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

where the scene is laid of Shakespeare's Hamlet. The steamer 
remained one day at Copenhagen. We spent the time in sight- 
seeing. The royal palace is very extensive,, and contains a 
picture gallery embracing many noble works of art. From 
the Castle of Rosenborg, we obtained a tine view of the city 
with its handsome surroundings. The museum of northen 
antiquities is unrivaled of its kind. It contains an admirably 
arranged collection of stone weapons and ornaments, reaching 
back to five hundred years before Christ. 

SIGHTS IN DENMARK. 

Taking the steamer, we proceeded to Cronstadt, passing 
through the Baltic Sea. This city is the port of St. Petersburg, 
and twenty miles distant. Our steamer had barely cast anchor 
before the custom house officers were on board, who examined 
the baggage of the passengers, and placed upon each parcel the 
seal of Alexander. The passports were then called for, and 
after being handled by many officers in uniform, were 
registered, stamped, and returned, with a copy of printed 
instructions for their future use. Of the stringency of the 
passport system in Russia we have an illustration in the 
experience of an Englishman, who reached Cronstadt just 
before our arrival. Fie presented his passport, which 
bore his own name, and to which was appended "wife and 
family." But the officers requested him to show his wife's 
name on the document, saying, "How can you prove that this 
lady is your wife, and that these are your children?" All 
proffered bribes proving useless, there was no alternative left 
him, but to go back b}~ steamer to the nearest port where there 
was an English consul, and there have the name of each 
member of his family added to his passport. 

Cronstadt is situated on an island about five miles in length, 
at the mouth of the Neva river. It was founded by Peter the 
Great in A. D. 1810, who took the island from the Swedes. It 
is the greatest naval station of Russia, and its most flourishing 
commercial sea-port. It is defended by numerous batteries, 
built of granite. During the Russian war of 1854 it was 
considered impregnable by the British. 

To speak of Russia without making mention of public # 



AROUND THE WORLD. 59 

©ffieeirs -and military men, would be* to draw a picture of a 
scene and leave out the leading characters. Russia has strictly 
a military government. To enter the country, to leave it, to 
go from one city to another, or even to move from one hotel or 
residence to another in the same city, are regarded as business 
transactions which must be committed to government officials, 
who enforce a strict compliance with their regulations, 

A PRUNKARD'S AWFUL FATE-. 

As an example of restrictions of the laws and the amount 
of red tape required to do business in Russia, the following 
may serve as an instance; 

"An awful occurrence is reported from a Russian town, 

which for thrilling details outrivals all we have ever heard 

or read; and the story, besides the horror of it, shows how 

utterly helpless the Russian system of government renders 

the people for whose benefit it is designed. A man drank 

heavily and had an epileptic fit, from which he apparently 

' died. To avoid keeping the supposed corpse in the house it 

was decided to lay him in the ground that very night, and 

arrangements were made accordingly. The body was removed 

to the cemetery church, where the priest read the service for 

the dead. He was laid in the grave, and it being late, a few 

shovels of earth were thrown over the coffin. .Next morning 

when the grave-digger went to complete his work, he heard a 

terrible groaning and struggling in the grave. Instead of 

forthwith releasing the poor, wretched man, the sexton ran to 

a priest to ask leave to disinter him. This request the priest 

refused, on the ground that he dare not touch a, body once 

buried without permission of the police. The sexton then 

informed the wife, and together they went to the chief of the 

local police, who said it was quite out of his power to grant 

the request, and he referred, them to the archimandrite, who 

in turn referred them to the procurator, through whom at last 

the agonized wife procured the authorization without which 

no one could exhume her husband. Five hours had elapsed 

since the grave-digger heard the first groans, and when the 

coffin was at last opened, a most heart-rending sight greeted 

the eyes of the grief-stricken wife. The poor fellow, in his 

frantic struggles, had turned over in his coffin, and in his 

despair had bitten his fingers and torn his flesh and clothing; 

but was at last quite dead. This fatality was- due to no other 

cause than the senseless formalities which prevail in every 

branch of Russian administration. Think of running to a 



<J0 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

priest first to ask. the privilege of digging up a man buried 
alive, and then wasting five hours running about to untwist 
red tape, with a man struggling in his coffin for a breath of 
fresh air. His wife has sued the priest on the ground that he 
caused her husband's death by too slavishly obeying the letter 
of his instructions. He will probably sue the police, and the 
police the archimandrite, who in turn may sue the procurator 
for permitting the body to be exhumed at all, and by the time 
they get it all settled, the wife will probably be dead!" 

From Cronstadt we went up to St. Petersburg in a .steam- 
boat — none of the large steamers being permitted to pass 
beyond the port of entiy. The day was charming and the 
view was fine, both upon the sparkling water of the Gulf ol 
Finland, and its shores, diversified by forests and towns. Ar» 
we were nearing St. Petersburg our eyes were dazzled by the 
appearance of two rising suns. This would have seemed a 
strange and startling phenomenon, had we not before heard ol 
the gold plated dome of St. Isaac's Cathedral, giving the 
appearance of a rising sun. 

THE DROSKY AND DRIVER. 

On landing we were surrounded by the Drosky men. Their 
dress consists of a dark blue cloth suit lined with sheep-skin, 
and a broad-brimmed hat. The drosky, or cab, is no less a 
novelty than the driver. It is a small four-wheeled vehicle 
with fiys at the side and but one seat. This is without a back, 
and barely large enough for two persons. From the shafts rises 
a hoop, coming over the shoulders of the horse and containing 
rings through which the lines are passed. The driver sits 
upon a raised seat in front. 

Our illustration shows the manner of winter travel in 
Russia. The style of harness is the same as that used with 
the drosky. 

During this visit we spent three months at St. Petersburg, 
visiting the hospitals and medical institutions, and enjoy- 
ing the charms of the summer season. I shall leave the 
description of this and other cities of Russia to a future 
time. 

In September we went to Moscow, where I obtained my 
first glimpse of Oriental life, so richly displayed in the style of 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



61 



architecture and in the manners and customs of the people of 
this ancient Russian metropolis. 

From Moscow we went to Warsaw, the capital of Poland. 
This city has more than thirty palaces, of noble architecture, 
in which are valuable treasures of art. The cathedral, which 
dates from A. D. 1250, is a gothic building of great beauty 




The 
fine 



SLEIGHI1TC- Z£T ET7SSIA. 

containing many interesting statues and monuments 
citadel erected by Nicholas of Russia commands 
panoramic view of the city. 

Poland was at one time an independent monarchy, with an 
enterprising and wealthy people. Finally, through wars with 
other nations, it became weakened and fell a prey to the united 
powers of Russia, Prussia, and Austria, and the territory was 



62 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

divided between them. It is nearly seven hundred miies 
square, and in 1859 had a population of twenty-four million. 
From Moscow we went to Vienna and remained one month, 
attending the World's Exposition. Having described that 
city in my first tour, I shall not detain my readers with furher 
details. 

BEAUTIES OF THE RHINE 

From Vienna we went to Antwerp through the valley of the 
Rhine — a land fraught with historical renown — a seat of science, 
music and the arts. Like a charming panorama, beautiful 
scenes unfolded as we passed up this celebrated river, with its 
renowned ruins from which has sprung many a poetic and 
legendary tale. The Rhine is the most important river of 
Germany, taking its rise in the Swiss canton of the Grisons, 
running a north-west course for eight hundred and fifty miles ; 
and emptying into the German ocean. The river has aboui 
twelve thousand tributaries. The head-waters of one branch 
of the Rhine rises on Mount Crispalt, seven thousand five 
hundred feet above the level of the sea, and they come bursting 
like a torrent through a deep ravine. Farther down and with 
other tributaries, the waters go rushing over a rock seventy 
feet high. The picturesque scenery through which the Rhine 
flows has made it very celebrated. But who has not heard of 
the grandeur of the Rhine? The poet has expressed in the 
following lines something of the beauties of this river : 

"The river nobly foams and flows, 
The charm of this enchanted ground, 
And all its thousand turns disclose 
Some fresher beauty varying round 
The haughtiest breast its wish might bound 
Through life to dwell delighted here ; 
Nor could on earth a spot be found 
To Nature and to me so dear, 
Could thy dear eyes in following mine, 
Still sweeten more these banks of Rhine," 

MAMMOTH CATHEDRAL. 

At Cologne is one of the most celebrated cathedrals in 
Europe. It was commenced during the twelfth century, but 



AROUND THE WORLD. 63 

was not completed until A. D. 1863. The body of the church 
measures five hundred feet in length, and two hundred and 
thirty feet in breadth. The towers are above five hundred feet 
in height. The cost is estimated at thirty-five million dollars. 
One of the important manufactures of this place is the 
celebrated eau-de-Cologiie, a favorite perfumery the world over. 

On the way from Cologne to Antwerp we had a collision of 
trains — the only like accident happening to us during our tour 
around the world. A very dense fog prevailed, obscuring the 
approaching train. Both were running at good speed, and the 
sudden collision and check of the train threw the passengers 
from their seats. I was hurled against the door, but was 
not seriously injured. The fireman and engineer were disabled. 
After a brief delay we proceeded to Antwerp, arriving there 
in a few hours. This city is the chief commercial port of 
Belgium. It has a population of one hundred and fifty 
thousand. Among its manufactures are those of carpets, 
gold and silver lace, and point lace. The cutting of diamonds 
and other precious stones, and ship building may also be 
mentioned. 

From Antwerp we sailed for London by steamer, across the 
North sea. Our voyage occupied about twenty-four hours, 
during which time the sea was quite rough. The passengers 
were generally sea-sick. Stimulants were extensively resorted 
to as a supposed preventive; wine, brandy, and especially 
English stout were freely used by the ladies. In all my 
travels I have been an abstainer, never using any kind of 
liquor; and on this as on other occasions, I declined to take it. 
My experience has confirmed my conviction that liquor is 
injurious instead of helpful in sea-sickness. I have spent 
more than one year on the water in various parts of the world, 
and while strictly adhering to principles of total abstinence, I 
have never tailed in a single instance to enjoy my meals. This 
voyage was no exception, and those who freely used stimulants 
suffered severely, while those who abstained fared much 
better. 

All day long our vessel had been rocked by the billows, and 
when night came on the tempest was unabated. The winds 
blew and the great waves dashed about us. The night was 



64 



TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



dark and stormy; but as we neared the mouth of the Thames? 
our hearts were gladdened by the rays from the light-house, 
which came shining across the sea. They pointed out our 
dangers, and told us that we were near the shore. 0, those dear 
old light -houses — how many fainting hearts they have 
comforted. How many mariners — rocked by the stormy 
waves — have they guided to port. But alas! how many 
have gone down amidst the darkness of night, beneath the 
waves of a stormy sea, all for want of a light to warn them of 
danger and guide them to shore. No one can understand the 
value of the light-house but those who have been at sea, or who 
know the dangers of the deep. Very grave is the responsibility 

of him who has charge 
of such a light. How 
forcibly do the words of 
the keeper of the Calais 
light-house at the en- 
trance of the Straits of 
Dover, between France 
and England, illustrate 
this responsibilty. An 
admiring visitor — to 
whom he had been show- 
U ing this lofty " Beacon of 
__ the Seas'- — said, *' What 
H| if your light should go 
out somestormv night?" 



The astonished keeper 
^exclaimed: ''What! mni 
*. light go outf 

"Why, yes; don't 
your lamps sometimes 
go out?" 

"No! No J— What, my 
amps go out? Never/ 




THE LI3-HT-HO~SE. 



If on any night they should cease to burn for a single hour, 
vessels might be wrecked and hundreds of lives lost! For 
months — perhaps for years hence — letters of inquiry might 
come from other lands — even from the other side of the globe 



AROUND THE WORLD. 05 

— inquiring after a husband, a wife, a child, or a friend; and 
the news must be borne back, that on a certain night, on board 
the ship, they sailed through the Straits of Dover into the 
English Channel, and the light in Calais light-house had gone 
out! Darkness was over the waters, the vessel was wrecked, 
and those on board perished amid the storm!" 

A LAMP IN THE WINDOW, 

1 can not refrain from mentioning here the stoiy of a 
fisherman off the coast of Scotland, who was overtaken by a 
storm before which he drifted at the mercy of the winds. 
Dense darkness covered the sea, and there was no light to 
guide him back to the harbor: His frail fishing-smack 
began to leak, and could not long stand the storm, and unless 
he was quickly brought to shore he must perish. It was an 
hour of deep suspense. Silently the poor fisherman prayed for 
deliverance. Soon his son cried out, "Father, I see a light." 
It was even so. The father guided his boat toward it, and was 
soon brought to the very harbor where stood his home. The 
light which saved him was a lamp, by accident — : or rather by 
providence — set in his own window. During the rest of his 
life, the fisherman kept a light in his window, and after his 
death it was succeeded by the Rocky Shore Island Light. 
How many storm-beaten mariners this light has safely brought 
to land, no one may know. When viewing these ocean beacons 
belonging to various nations of the world, I have thought of 
the many weather-beaten and storm-tossed vessels which their 
lights have safely brought into port. And as I have listened 
to the expe v ience, and learned of the hopes of Christians in 
many lands and isles of the sea, and remembered that Christ 
has said "I am the light of the world," I can but believe that 
many storm-tossed souD are safely guided by His light into the 
haven above. And now I long that when my travels on earth 
are ended — when I shall no more be guided into the harbor by 
the lights upon this mortal shore— that the light of Christ may 
direct me safe into the celestial port above, where I can 
spend eternity's years in looking upon the Maker of this earth, 
and the grander beauties of the "heavenly world. 



66 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

As our vessel moved into port in London, amidst the forests 
of masts, we were glad to think our voyage — though brief — 
was ended. We stepped ashore and plunged into the busy, 
restless life of the world's metropolis. Here I met with many 
friends whose acquaintance I had made before, and had the 
pleasure of forming many new and happy associations. My 
time during the winter was mostly spent in writing and in 
the pursuit of my medical profession, and in giving physi- 
ological lectures among ladies. I made my first tour to 
Birmingham, Manchester, and Liverpool, and visited many 
places of interest, of which I shall speak in the future. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 67 



THIRD TOUR-EUROPE. 



CHAPTER I. 



A Ride Through France — Mountain Scenery — Geneva— 
Again in France — Along the Mediterranean Sea — 
Marseilles — Nice — A Favorite Winter Resort — Genoa, 
a City of Palaces — Pisa — Leaning Tower. 

|j| FTER a stay of about two months in London we set out 
.VA on our third tour through Europe, in which we 
■^^ spent one year visiting the capitals and principal places 
of interest in France, Switzerland, Italy, Austria, Turkey, 
Russia, Poland and Germany. We first stopped at Paris, 
remaining there about seven weeks, during which time I was 
mostly employed in delivering physiological lectures. 

A RIDE THROUGH FRANCE. 

Leaving Paris on the seventh of February, for Geneva, 
Switzerland, we passed through the charming land of France. 
The farms on this route are as carefully cultivated as a series of 
delightful gardens. The lines of separation are made by rows 
of Lombardy poplars. No fences are to be seen along the way. 
The rivers are spanned by elegant bridges, and the towns and 
rural homes bespeak taste and refinement, for which the 
French are noted. On the second day after leaving Paris we 
reached the Swiss mountains. The railway passes through 
many tunnels, and under arches, as it winds among the Alps. 
In quick succession appear high, rugged mountains, shelving 
rucks and cultivated terraces, far up along their sides. 
Cottages are half buried in the ground among the yineyards, 
thatjthey may not be swept by the storms and rains into the 



68 



TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



valleys below. There are stupendous walls of solid rock, 
shutting out all but the blue sky. and little lakes of emerald, 
blue, violet, silver or golden waters, such as one might believe 
are to be seen only in paintings, but paintings are not to be 
com pared with these works of nature's great Artist". 






i||ll''«#fl 




."•• . ' ' ■• 

We spent a few days at Geneva, visiting the principal places 
of interest. The city is situated on a lake of the same name, 
which lies at an elevation of 1150 feet above the sea. Rising 
to the south is the snowy peak of Mont Blanc, with an 
elevation of 15,810 feet — the loftiest summit of -the Alps. 

The Rhone river flows through Lake Geneva. On entering 



AROUND THE WORLD. 69 

the lake the waters are of a dark yellow; but on leaving it 
they are clear like glass, but of a blue tint. We visited the 
cathedral where Calvin — Switzerland's great reformer— held 
the multitudes enraptured by his doctrine and his eloquence. 

ALONG THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA. 

From Geneva we made a second journey to France, stopping 
first at Lyons. This is one of the most important manu- 
facturing cities of France, noted for its silks and velvets. 
Continuing our journey, we reached the Mediterranean sea, 
stopping a while at Marseilles, the chief commercial sea- 
port. This town is four hundred and ten miles in a direct 
line south of south-east from Paris. It has a magnificent 
harbor, capable of accommodating twelve hundred vessels. 
Its warehouses are the finest in Europe. About nine thousand 
large ships and steamers enter its port annually. Marseilles 
in number of inhabitants is the third town in France, having 
a population of nearly three hundred thousand. From the 
harbor the ground rises on all sides, forming a kind of amphi- 
theater. Beyond the city proper the hills are seen, covered 
with beautiful gardens and vineyards, and dotted with white 
farm houses. The public library contains seventy-eight 
thousand volumes. 

Leaving the city, we passed through a succession of groves 
and vineyards, which yield the celebrated Mediterranean 
fruits, such as grapes, oranges, and olives. A more charming 
view rarely meets the eye of the traveler. It is like an 
Eden crowned with the beauties of an eternal spring, set 
around upon the north-east by the picturesque Alps, and 
skirted on the south by the blue waters of the Mediter- 
ranean. 

A FAVORITE WINTER RESORT. 

About twelve hours by rail brought us to Nice, where we 
remained several weeks. The salubrity of the climate 
makes this place a favorite winter resort. In the suburbs of 
the town there are orange groves aggregating ten to twelve 
thousand acres. Lemon, myrtle, almond, pomegranate, and 
palm trees abound. The country is covered with wild 



70 TEJS YEARS' TRAVEL 

geraniums, violets, roses and jessamines; while the air is 
perfumed by wild thyme, rosemary, and lavender, which grow 
on the rockiest hills. The luxuriant vegetation imparts to 
winter the appearance of spring. Lady Montague expressed 
her delight with the climate and scenery at Nice, in the 
following beautiful lines: 

"The summer reigns with one eternal smile; 
Succeeding harvests bless the happy soil; 
Fair, fertile fields, to which indulgent Heaven 
Has ever, charm of every season given ; 
No killing colds deform the bounteous year; 
The springing flowers no coming winter fear ; 
But as the parent ruse decays and dies. 
The infant bud with lighter colors rise, 
And wiih fresh sweets the mother's scent supplies." 

At Nice 1 met the Princess Dolgorouki, who married 
Alexander II. of Russia. I was giving a course of physiolog- 
ical lectures, which the princess attended, and she became 
deeply interested in the subject. There was also present, Miss 
Bourra, the English author of "Cross Currents.' 1 

CITY OF PALACKS. 

From Nice we continued our journey along the shores of the 
Mediterranean, passing through delightful regions — abounding 
with luxuriant olive and orange vineyards — to Genoa, the 
birth-place of the renowned discoverer of America, Christopher 
Columbus. This place deserves mention for the beauty of its 
surroundings and the elegance of its architecture. It is called 
•'La Superba" — the Superb — and the ''City of Palaces." The 
Via Nuova — the principal street — is adorned with marble 
dwellings, and some of their gates of entrance are forty feet in 
height. Tlie roofs are Mat, and frequently terraced and 
adorned with shrubs and tropical trees. Among them is the 
oleander, which often attains a height of twenty to twenty-five 
feet. These delightful terraces are refreshed by fountains of 
sparkling water, conveyed in pipes from the mountain springs 
near the town. The ground on which the city is built rises 
to the height of live hundred feet, being bounded by the 
Maritime Alps, which form a back-ground. On the brow of a 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



71 




72 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

distant hill — called II Paradiso — is a villa which was occupied 
by Lord Byron. The market-places of Genoa are bright with 
flowers and with the rich golden fruits of the tropics. The city 
is noted for the beauty of its women. They have jet black 
hair, and fairer complexions than do those of other Italian 
towns. Their charms are increased by large, thin, white veils, 
which they wear about their heads in the place of hats or 
bonnets. The plazas, or squares, are adorned with numerous 
columns and statues, one of the most beautiful of which is a 
white marble monument erected to the memory of Christopher 
Columbus. 

We left G-enoa in the evening, and sailed for Leghorn, 
arriving there early next morning. Here we stopped to see 
the statue of Cavour, erected in one of the public squares; 
arid then hastened on to Pisa, glad to get away from the swarm 
of beggars that infest the town to the great annoyance of 
tourists. 

THE LEANING TOWER. 

« 

We ascended the Campanile, or Leaning Tower of Pisa, 
which is considered among the wonders of the world. The 
ascent is made .by two hundred and ninety-five steps. The 
tower is eight stories high, with outside galleries projecting 
about seven feet. It is only one hundred and ninety feet 
in height, but the view from the top is very grand. The 
topmost story overhangs the base fifteen feet on one side; but 
it is so constructed that the other side extends ten feet within 
the base. It has stood in this leaning position for six 
centuries. 

Two other places of historic interest in Pisa we must not 
omit to notice, one of which is the cathedral, built in the 
eleventh century, where still hangs the large bronze lamp, the 
swinging of which first suggested to Galileo the theory of 
the pendulum, when he was but eighteen years of age. The 
other is the Campo Santa — a place of burial — -from which 
almost every other place of interment in Italy derives its name. 
It is covered with earth which was brought from Jerusalem in 
fifty ships as long ago as A. D. 1228. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 73 



CHAPTER II. 

Florence — Rome and its Wonders — St. Peter's Cathedral 
— Bones of the Apostles — St. Peter's Chair — Palace 
of the Vatican — Pope in Procession — Noted Churches 
and Venerated Stair-way — Mamertine Prisons — Bam- 
bino — The Pantheon — Colosseum. 

J/4EAVING Pisa in the afternoon we took the train for 
Wl/fl Florence, arriving there in the night. This city is best 
;5^ seen by ascending one of its lofty towers, or from the 
surrounding mountains. Its river, the golden Arno, runs 
through the center of the city, and then winds its way along 
the fruitful valley to the sea. 

The Golden age of Florence dates from the middle of the 
seventeenth century under Cosmo de Medici, whose life 
stands out amid Florentine history as a bright star, and 
who founded the famous Medici family. Florence became 
a power in Italy during their rule and enjoyed a great degree 
of peace and prosperity. The memorials of this family are 
seen in the palaces of art which they founded and enriched, 
and in the Mausoleum which holds their dead. 

The Medicean Chapel was designed for the Holy Sepulcher 
in 1604, which Ferdinand I. — the Tuscan ruler — intended 
stealing from Jerusalem; but he failed in the plot, being 
detected after the work of detaching the tomb from the church 
had been commenced. It is one of the richest sepulchers in 
Italy. The walls are covered with Florentine mosaics of the 
most expensive marble and precious stones. The roof and the 
dome are embellished with frescoes and ornamented with gems. 
There are urns and cenotaphs of six successive grand dukes 
interred in the crypt beJow the chapel. It was the power of 
the Medici family which made Florence a city of palaces and 
her environs a garden of delight. 



74 TEN YEARS" TRAVEL 

The imperial gallery, called the Uffizi, and the Pitti Palace 
contain the richest and most varied collection of paintings in 
the world, with miles of statuary, tapestry and choice works of 
art. 

Florence has eighty-seven cathedrals. The Duomo, or 
cathedral of Santa Maria del Flore, is huilt of marble of various 
colors. It is eight hundred years old, and is not yet 
complete; its dome is one of the largest in the world. Near 
the cathedral is the Campanile, or hell-tower, 275 feet in 
height, witli six great hells. The ascent is made by a stair- 
case of above four hundred steps. The Baptibteiy by the Duomo 
is of circular form, and was formerly open at the top like the 
Pantheon at Rome. It is celebrated for its great bronze doors, 
covered with figures representing portions of Bible history, 
such as the creation of man, Noah alter the deluge, Joseph 
and his brothers, and the Queen of Sheba's visit to Solomon. 
Michael Angelo, speaking of these doors, declared them worthy 
of being the gates of Paradise. 

All the baptisms of the city are performed in this church, the 
number annually being about four thouband five hundred. 
On one occasion the poet Dante saved a child from drowning 
in the fount. 

The church of Santa Croce contains monuments erected to 
the memory of some of the most celebrated men of Italy. 
Byrcn alludes to it in the following lines : 

" In Saute Croce's holy precincts lie 
Ashes which make it holier, dust which is 
Even in itself an immortality 

Ihough there were nothing save the past and this, 
Tire particles of those sublimities 
Which have relapsed to chaos: here repose 
Angelo's, Alriero's bones and his 
The starrv Gaiileo, with his woes; 
Here Machiavelli's earth returned to whence it rose." 

Florence has ever been the home of celebrities and lovers of 
art. We visited the house of Michael Angelo — the great 
genius in painting, sculpture and architecture, the house of 
Galileo, the illustrious astronomer — where he entertained 
Milton the poet; the house where Dante was born, the house 



AROUND THE WORLD. 75 

of Mrs. Browning, and the home of Hiram Powers, and those 
of other authors and artists. 

The grand drive or promenade. of Florence is the Caseine, 
which runs for two miles along the bank of the Arno. It is 
shaded by magnificmt trees, by which it is divided into 
separate avenues for carriages, horsemen and pedestrians. 
About midway the grounds are laid out in a circle with stands 
for music and seats for spectators. In the afternoon the hand 
performs here, and the place is crowded with the citizens and 
visitors of Florence. It was here that I first saw the late king, 
Victor Emanuel, attended b} T his body-guard in uniform. We 
made three visits to Florence, occupying in all a period of one 
month. Some of the prominent ladies, knowing of my 
medical profession, arranged for me to give a series of lectures 
on physiology in one of their drawing-rooms, to females. 
About thirty were present, among them some titled Italian 
ladies. 

From Florence we went to Rome by the route described in 
the first tour. On this occasion we remained there for six 
weeks, during which time I was engaged in giving physiolog- 
ical lectures, and in viewing the places of special interest and 
studying the history of the city. There is no lack of objects 
of interest here, for churches, palaces, monuments, ruins, and 
the modes and customs of the people abound with that which 
is ancient, grand, or novel. 

BASILICAS AND CHURCHES. 

Rome has five grand basilicas, and sixty-five churches. At 
the time of this visit, in 1874, the churches were all Roman 
Catholic. Protestant churches at that time were not tolerated 
within the walls of the city, and English and American 
churches were in the suburbs. Since that time Protestantism 
has gained a much firmer foothold in Rome, and has also 
spread rapidly in other parts of Italy. The basilicas are 
magnificent buildings which at different periods have served 
the purpose of heathen temples, courts of justice, and the 
palaces of princes; but they have since been transformed into 
churches. 

The largest and richest of the churches is St. Peter's 



76 



TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



Cathedral. It is impossible to give a true idea of the splendor 
or magnitude of this great edifice, with its surrounding 
colonnades, and its obelisk and fountains. The colonnades- 
two hundred and eighty-four in number, besides sixty-four 
pilasters, form two great rings or semicircles, extending out 




from the front of the church. The colonnades are forty-eight 
feet high and upon the top of them there are one hundred 
and ninety-two marble statues of saints, each twelve feet 
hicrh In the center of the open court, within these rows of 



AROUND THE WORLD. 77 

colonnades, stands an Egyptian obelisk. This inclosure is 
paved, arranged in beautiful walks, and furnished with 
fountains. 

The dimensions of this cathedral are very great, its length 
exceeding seven hundred feet, and its breadth being about 
four hundred. Its seating capacity is fifty-four thousand five 
hundred. The height of the building, from the basement to 
the summit of the cross, is four hundred and thirty-six feet. 
The dome is one hundred and thirty-eight feet in diameter. 
The ball, above the cupola and just below the cross — though 
appearing small from below— is large enough to admit sixteen 
persons at the same time. The cross above the ball is sixteen 
feet in height. I made the ascent to the great dome, and 
entered the ball with fifteen other persons. 

BONES OF THE APOSTLES. 

In the interior of the church there is a grand nave running 
through the center, with a row of the finest marble columns on 
each side. In the nave, under the dome, is the baldachin, 
rising to the height of ninety-five feet, and supported by 
ornamental columns. Beneath it is a tomb which Catholics, 
claim to hold the bones of St. Peter and St. Paul. The tomb 
is constructed of white marble, with balustrades of alabaster 
columns on each side of the entrance. The bones are taken 
from the tomb once a year and exhibited to the people, who 
throng the church in vast numbers. In one of the other 
cathedrals it is claimed that the heads of the Apostles are 
preserved, and there is an annual exhibition of the same. We 
wonder that they do not claim to have the body of Moses, 
or the dust of the ancestors of our race hidden away in some 
mysterious crypt. 

ST. PETER'S CHAIR. 

Over the tomb in the Cathedral of St. Peter's, there is an 
altar to which the common people are forbidden to approach, 
the pope only ascending to celebrate mass. Behind this 
baldechin, and elevated and supported by four statues, stands 
the great chair of St. Peter. This, it is claimed, the holy 



78 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

apostle occupied while upon earth. It has been encased in 
glittering bronze and gildings, said to have cost one hundred 
thousand dollars. When a pope has reigned for twenty-rive 
years he is honored by a seat in this chair, and a jubilee is 
held. This honor was awarded to Pope Pius IX. This may 
have been an honor to the pope, but we should think not 
much honor to the apostle Peter. On the right of tin- 
nave and fronting the great altar is a bronze statue of St. Peter, 
the big toe of which is worn bright and smooth by the 
kisses of the people — some say by "silly women," but I 
have seen men kiss the toe with as much devotion as ever a 
silly woman could do. The church contains man)' costly 
statues, paintings and mosaics ; among them are mosaic 
medallions of the apostles with their emblems. These statues 
are sixteen feet in height. St. Luke stands among them 
holding in his hand a pen seven feet long. 

The site of St. Peter's was occupied by a chapel dedicated 
to the apostle as early as A. D. 90. A basilica was erected 
here by Constantine the Great. The genius of Michael Angelo 
was employed upon its design in the seventy-second year of 
his age. After his death, various artists and architects were 
emplo} r ecl daring the three hundred and fifty years of its 
construction — a period extending over the reign of no fewer 
than forty-three popes. The building is said to have cost 
fifty 'million dollars, and its present annual expense amounts to 
about forty thousand dallars. The exterior of the building is 
illuminated twice each year — on Easter and during the 
festival of St. Peter, held June twenty-ninth. Six thousand 
eight hundred lamps are employed in the illumination, and 
three hundred and eight)- men are required to do the lighting. 
Of this magnificent building, one author has said, "Take all 
the colossal beauty and strength and masterly proportions 
of the cathedrals of Europe and combine them into one, 
and you have a conception of St. Peter's church." 

THE PALACE OF THE VATICAN. 

Adjoining the Cathedral of St. Peter's is a group of massive 
buildings, called the Vatican. They were erected by the 
reigning pontiffs of different periods, and contain four 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



79 



thousand four hundred and twenty-two rooms, eight grand 
stairways, and two hundred smaller ones. There are connected 
with the buildings a vast museum of antiquities, many corri- 
dors, and twenty open courts. In one of its rooms — the Sixtine 
Chapel— is the renowned painting of Michael Angelo, showing 
the last judgment. The Vatican contains the largest and finest 




POPE IIT PEOCESSIOIT. 

collection of art in the world. This has been the home of the 
popes for more than five hundred years, and St. Peter's has 
been their place of burial, in which lie entombed one hundred 
and thirty-two successors of the famous apostle. 

Our illustration shows the pope entering the portal of the 
Vatican. Clad in robes of purple and gold, he stands in his 



80 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

gilded chariot, drawn by four white horses in costly trappings. 
Accompanying him in the procession are cardinals in scarlet 
robes, bishops, priests, and soldiers in uniform as his attend- 
ants. As he passes along the streets the people drop upon 
their knees to do him homage. 

NOTED CHURCHES. 

The basilica of St. John of Lateran, was founded by 
Constantine the Great, and is one of the grandest among the 
great cathedrals of Rome. Here the popes have been crowned 
for fifteen hundred years. It contains many relics and is 
richly adorned with statues of the apostles and other 
monuments. 

The Baptistery of St. John, which stands near the basilica, 
contains the font in which Constantine the Great was 
baptized. He was the first Roman emperor who was converted 
to Christianity. To commemorate this event, the mother of 
Constantine sent from Jerusalem the stair-way that was in 
the house of Pontius Pilate. It is called the Scala Santa, and 
i^ held in great veneration, because it is said that Jesus 
ascended and descended upon it when he was condemned by 
Pilate. It consists of twenty-eight marble steps. Upon them 
are three stains, said to have been made by the blood of Christ. 
No person is permitted to place his feet upon this stair-way, but 
must go up and down on his hands and knees. I visited it 
and ascended in this uncomfortable and tedious manner. 
Vividly it brought to my memory the experience of Martin 
Luther. At the top of the stairway is a painting of Christ, 
before which a light is constantly kept burning. It is said to 
have been painted by St. Luke. 

The basilica of St. Maria Maggiore, is one of the richest of 
the great cathedrals. Pius IX. selected it as his place of 
sepulture. His tomb is one of the most gorgeous structures in 
existence, being of gold, po'ished marbles, and gems, with 
many columns of malachite and lapis lazuli. 

St. Paul's is one and a half miles beyond the walls of Rome. 
It surpasses the other basilicas in its grand colums of Oriental 
alabaster, statues, and richly stained glass windows. A place 
near St. Paul's is said to be the spot where the apostle was 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



81 



beheaded. There are three springs of water near together, and 
the story is told that St. Paul's head rebounded when it was 
severed from the body, and struck the ground in the three 
places, where the water afterwards burst forth. 

A house in Rome is pointed out as St. Paul's own "hired 
house." The ceiling is supported by rows of polished and 
beautiful columns of Oriental jasper. It is said by some 
Bible commentators, that six of the fourteen epistles of St. 
Paul were written while he was in Rome, namely : Ephesians, 
Phillippians, Second Timothy, Philemon, Collossians, and 
Hebrews. 

THE PANTHEON. 




The Pantheon, for 
age and perfect preser- 
vation, excels any 
other building in 
Rome. It has been 
standing there f o r 
almost two thousand 
years. It was dedi- 
cated as a heathen 
temple to all the gods, 
and in it were enshrin- 
ed the images of Mars, 
Venus and other 
heathen deities. It 
was built by Agrippa, 
27 B. C. For about twelve hundred years it has been dedicated 
and used as a Christian church. Its walls seem to have been 
built to defy time, being twenty feet thick. Its portico, 
shown in our illustration, is more than one hundred feet wide 
and forty-two feet deep. It has sixteen Corinthian columns 
of granite, four feet four inches in diameter and thirty-nine 
feet high. The building is lighted through an aperture in its 
dome, which is one hundred and forty-two feet in diameter 
and the same in height. In this grand temple lie buried the 



82 



TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



remains of Victor Emanuel, the first king of Italy, and the 
artist Raphael. 

A favorite image 
of the Romish 
church is the ''most 
holy Bambino." The 
word Bambino is sim- 
ply the Italian for 
child, and is applied 
to the particular im- 
age of the holy child 
Jesus. It is an im- 
age made of wood 
and is about two feet 
in length. On its head 
is a royal crown of 
gold, studded with 
rubies, emeralds, and 
diamonds. It is 
dressed in richest ap- 
parel and covered 
with jewels, and cost 
many thousand dol- 
lars. Believers in 
Rom an ism have 
great faith that the 
Bambino has mirac- 
ulous power of heal- 
ing the sick, or de- 
termining the results 
of the case. Large 
sums are charged by 
the monks for mak- 
ing visits with this 
image. They take 
it in a coach quite as 
fine as those used by 
cardinals or the pope, 
costly robes 




b -a. :m: :e 1 2>r o . 
The priest carrying it, is dressed in very 
This image is held in such sacred veneration 



AROUND THE WORLD. 83 

that while it is being conveyed through the streets, every head 
is uncovered and every knee is bent. The Bambino generally 
represents a swaddled figure like that in our illustration. The 
one in the church of Ara Coeli is said to have been carved 
from a tree that grew on. Mount Olivet, and the painting to 
have been done by St. Luke. This Bambino is said to draw 
more in the shape of fees, at the annual festival held at the 
Epiphany, than the most successful practitioner in Rome. 

MAMERTINE PRISONS. 

The tradition of the church has consecrated this prison as 
the place in which St. Peter was confined in the reign of Nero. 
The pillar to which he was bound is shown; also a fountain 
said to have miraculously sprang up to enable him to baptize 
the jailor. The prison consists of two cells, excavated in the 
rock, and placed one over the other. The lower one is twenty 
feet in diameter. In the center of the vault is a circular 
aperture, through which it is supposed the prisoners were let 
down. It is hardly possible to imagine a more horrid dungeon, 
The Mamertine prisons were reserved exclusively for State 
criminals — political prisoners. 

COLOSSEUM OR AMPHITHEATER. 

The Colosseum, or Amphitheater, is one of the most 
impressive structures in the world. It was completed by 
Titus in the year A. D. 80, ten years after the destruction of 
Jerusalem, and the opening of it was celebrated by gladiatorial 
combats, in which five thousand wild beasts were slain, the 
games having lasted for about one hundred days. The 
building is of an elliptical form, and covers about five acres 
of ground. The most reliable measurements give its greatest 
length at six hundred and twenty feet, and its greatest breadth 
at five hundred and thirteen feet. The height of the exterior 
wall at the highest point is one hundred and sixty feet The 
Colosseum was capable of containing about eighty-seven 
thousand persons. The arena in the center is two hundred 
and seventy-four feet across. Beneath the arena were cells, 
passages, and caverns for wild beasts. For four hundred years 



84 



TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



this building was used for gladiatorial combats. During the 
persecution of the Christians, it was the scene of awful barbar- 
ities. Close by the place where the wild beasts were kept in 
hunger, were the prisons where condemned Christians were 
confined, and where all the night long they could hear the 
roaring of the beasts that were soon to destroy them. From 
the arena tiers of seats, four in number, rise to the top of the 
outside wall, and from these seats eighty-seven thousand 
spectators might look down upon the awful scenes enacted 
below. The groans of dying gladiators, and condemned 
Christians, as they were torn and devoured by wild animals, 




THE COLOSSEIT1I. 



ascended to the ears of the lookers-on. To stand upon the height 
of this Colosseum and look down upon the arena, and contem- 
plate the terrible deeds of its early history, is enough to 
make the heart sick. But there is this thought to cheer the 
Christian while dwelling upon this awful picture, and that 
is the fact that in A. D. 1750 this Colosseum was dedicated to 
the memory of the seventy thousand Christian martyrs who 
perished within it. There now stands in the center of the 
arena a cross, and also fourteen representations of our Lord's 
passion are placed around it. I attended evangelical services 
here, and the very thought of Christian worship in this 
building, which eighteen hundred years ago was dedicated 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



85 



as the greatest heathen temple for gladiatorial shows, is 
of itself very impressive. While many valuable portions 
of the Colosseum have been detached and borne away, as a 
ruin it is in a remarkable state of preservation. The visitor is 
impressed with the force of these lines, written so long ago : 
" While stands the Colosseum, Rome shall stand ; 

When falls the Colosseum, Rome shall fall; 

And when Rome falls, the world." 




iiECE: O ^ TITTJS. 

Near the Colosseum stands the Arch of Titus, the most 
elegant of all the triumphal arches of Rome. It consists of a 
single arch of white marble, with fluted columns on each side, 
and was erected to commemorate the conquest of Jerusalem by 
Titus. As a confirmation of Scripture, it is one of the most 



86 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

interesting ruins of Rome. On the inside of the arch are sculp- 
tures representing the golden candle-stick and other sacred 
utensils of the temple at Jerusalem, with their captors as they 
carried them into Rome. 

Close beside the Arch of Titus is the Roman Forum — her 
legislative haJl — now a group of interesting ruins. This was 
the cradle of the power of an cient Rome, the place around 
which were gathered all her most glorious works, and where 
some of the most stirring events in the history of the 
empire were enacted. The place is still pointed out in the 
Forum where "Great Csesar fell," at the foot of the statue of 
Pompey, which now stands in the Spada palace. It is of 
Greek marble, and is eleven feet high. 

" And thou dread statue ! yet existent in 
The austerest form of naked majesty, 
Thou who beheldest 'mid the assassins' din, 
At thy bathed base the bloody Ctesar lie, 
Folding his robe in dying dignity, 
An offering to thine altar from the queen 
Of gods and men, great Nemesis ! did he die, 
And thou, too, perish, Pompey?" 



AROUND THE WORLD. 87 



CHAPTER III. 

Bologna — Venice — Cathedral of St. Mark — Bridge of 
Sighs — The Gloomy Prison — Abhorrence of Romanism 
Churches and the Confession Box — A Glittering 
Girdle. 

iURING the summer months the fever prevails in Rome, 
.|JJ and English and American tourists generally go to 
other places, so we directed our course to the north. 
We stopped at Florence, where we renewed the acquaintance 
of friends whom we had met on a former tour, and enjoyed a 
pleasant visit of two weeks. Our next stopping place was at 
Bologna, one of the most ancient and important cities of Italy. 
It is finely situated at the foot of the Apennine mountains, 
between the rivers Reno, and Savena. The town was 
founded by the Etruscans, and, one hundred and ninety years 
before Christ, it was conquered by the Romans. Its present 
population is about one hundred thousand. Among the 
places of interest in Bologna, is the University, which is the 
most ancient in the world, and .at one time was the most 
celebrated. In A. D. 1216 its pupils numbered ten thousand. 

VENICE. 

From Bologna we went to Venice. This was my second 
visit to this city. We spent a week in sight-seeing and in 
looking after business interests. Venice is situated on a group 
of about one hundred islands. Unrivaled in beauty and 
situation, it is called " Queen of the Adriatic." A hundred 
palaces rise out of the water, whose history possesses all the 
startling brilliancy of romance, and verifies the poetical 
expression, " Truth is stranger than fiction." The charm of 
former greatness is still comparatively unbroken. Venice is 
to-day what Goethe, the great German poet, called it, "A grand 



88 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

and collective work of human effort, a glorious monument, 
not of a ruler but of a people." Many places of interest in 
Venice are clustered around the square of St. Mark — an oblong 
space six hundred by three hundred feet — the only public 
square of much size in the city. On one side is a cathedral 
dedicated to St. Mark, the patron saint of Venice. It is said 
that the bones of that apostle are buried in this church. 
A legend among the Venetians says at the time of the 
founding of the city, which was in A. D. 450, a priest 
dreamed that an angel told him that until the remains of 
St. Mark were brought to Venice, the city could never rise to 
high distinction among the nations. 

One expedition after another was sent to Alexandria in 
Egypt, where the apostle was said to have been martyred, in 
search for his body; but for four hundred years these efforts 
proved fruitless. However, the project was not abandoned, 
and it is said that at last the body was secured by strategy, 
brought to Venice, and deposited in the vault of this cathedral, 
which had been built to receive it. Among the grandeurs of 
this church are six hundred polished columns of precious 
marble, which have been brought from Jerusalem, Constanti- 
nople, and other places in the east. On the outside of the 
building, in a gallery of marble across the front, are the bronze 
horses of historical renown. Great interest attaches to these 
statues from the fact that Venice is a city in which there are 
no horses. History shows that these horses, although of 
bronze, have been great travelers. They first appeared at 
Antioch, from whence they were taken to Rome as trophies of 
war, and where they decorated Nero's triumphal arch. 
Constantine the Great took them to Constantinople, where 
they stood for years in the Hippodrome. Next they were 
brought as a prize to Venice, when the Crusaders took 
Constantinople. Napoleon I. took them to Paris in A. D. 
1797. Francis I. caused them to be brought back to Venice 
in 1815, and the}' have ever since stood in the Church of St. 
Mark. Adjoining this church is the Ducal Palace, an 
imposing edifice with its massive walls, supported by a double 
row of arches, resting upon a series of columns. We ascended 
the royal stair-way, walked through the halls, and viewed the 



AROUND THE WORLD. 89 

treasures of art. We passed into the council-chambers, where 
sat the inquisitors, robed in scarlet cloaks and masked, when 
in the silence and darkness of night they condemned to death 
the innocent Christians. 

BRIDGE OF SIGHS. 

Connecting the Ducal Palace and the prison on the opposite 

side of the canal, is the "Bridge of Sighs." This is a covered 

gallery across which prisoners were led from their cells to the 

palace to be sentenced. The bridge has a double passage 

within, arranged so that prisoners might not meet nor see any 

one while being conducted across it. It is a handsome arched 

structure as seen from the gondola below. The fact that many 

manacled prisoners, with sad and hopeless hearts, have 

passed this gloomy wa}^ under sentence of death, torture, or 

imprisonment for life, very properly designates it as the 

i; Bridge of Sighs." The cells were without criminals when I 

visited them ; but as I went through the dismal dungeons— 

a number being below the level of the water, where the 

light of day never enters — and viewed the implements of 

torture and death used in the days of the inquisition, I could 

but recoil at the scenes that were brought before me. Standing 

in the very cells where hundreds have lingered in pain and 

suspense — many of them confined for conscience' sake — until 

they met a mysterious or dreadful death, it seemed that the 

horrors of those awful days Avere gathering near, and the 

fear came stealing over me that my own life was in peril. 

Like Byron, who it is said had himself enclosed in one of 

thes<' dungeons, that he might obtain a knowledge of the 

feelings of a prisoner, I can exclaim : 

"I stood in Venice, on the 'Bridge of Sighs,' 
A palace and a prison on each hand." 

But the delightful thing to me, was again to be free from 

these dismal abodes, and walk out amid the sunlight and 

enjoy the glories of a clear Italian sky. 

ABHORRENCE OF ROMANISM. 

In our description of Italian cities we have said much about 
churches and palaces, vet we would not convey the idea that 

12 



90 



TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 




BEIDG-E O^ SIG-HS 



we are in sympathy with Romanism. It is a system of faith 
and practice that we hold in the deepest abhorrence, for we 
regard it as one form of paganism. To the Protestant mind, 



AROUND THE WORLD. 91 

the Romish churches are not so much places of worship as grand 
centers of the life and history of the country. Here are the 
links which bind us to the ages that have passed — the 
paintings, sculptured marble, frescoes, carvings and gildings. 
These marvelous creations of heaven-born genius, can not 
fail to awaken in the aesthetic mind the refined and ennobling 
qualities of the soul ; and yet there is much associated with 
the forms and creed of the Romish Church that is low and base, 
and leads to bondage. 

CHURCHES AND CONFESSION BOXES. 

The churches in this land have marble floors and pews. 
They have grand columns and lofty arches, and richly stained 
glass in the windows. Along the sides there are altars 
dedicated to some saint and decorated in a costly and elegant 
manner. Interspersed among these are the confession boxes, 
which resemble a wooden cabinet, with a rich, heavy curtain 
in front, and in each side a wire screen, about one foot 
square. Just underneath the screen, on the floor, is a Ioav 
bench on which the penitent kneels and makes confession to 
the priest, who sits on the box, wrapped in his priestly robe. 
The whole land groans under bondage to the priesthood, who 
gather the wealth and center it in the churches and employ it 
to enrich the monasteries and convents. In the congregations 
gathered at the church service are seen, in striking contrast, 
lavish wealth and squalid poverty. Music is given by the 
greatest masters and the best singers. 

If we were to collect together and arrange along a single 
avenue, all that is to be seen in Italy in the way of churches, 
basilicas, tombs, palaces, prisons, ruins, relics, galleries of art, 
with studios of sculpture and painting, and shops of 
antiquities, we should have a glittering girdle that would span 
the whole country, from one end to the other — from the 
Alps on the north to the Bay of Naples on the south. 



92 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



CHAPTER IV. 

Leaving Venice — Grecian Islands — Greek Brigands — In 
the Archipelago — Constantinople — Beauties of the 
Bosphoros — Odessa — Kief — Subterranean Homes — Pil- 
grims — Russian Wedding — Berlin — Dresden — Cremation 
of Bodies — Leipsic and Hamburg. 

Jjl|||N the evening of May twenty-first, we sailed on the 
WrJ/ steamer Venezia for Trieste. It was one of the 
■^p b charming nights for which that land is noted. We 
took the last view of Venice by moonlight, watching it fade 
away as it appeared to sink beneath the sparkling waters. 
The next morning we arrived at Trieste. On leaving romantic 
Italy and passing into Austria, with its exhilarating atmos- 
phere and wide-awake people, I felt as if I were entering upon 
the visions of a fanciful dream. Trieste — the commercial 
capital of Austria- -is situated on the north-east shore of the 
Adriatic. 

After spending one month there we took passage on a 
steamer bound for Odessa, a port of Russia on the Black Sea. 
It was after midnight when we left Trieste. The city, which 
rises up from the water in the form of an amphitheater, with 
its broad avenues circling round the hill, and lighted up by 
gas, made a scene of great brilliancy and beauty. The light- 
house which stood on the coast, sending its rays across the sea, 
and the glittering stars shining down from the heavens above, 
made that scene more impressive and sublime. Enraptured 
with this view we took our midnight leave of the place. 

GRECIAN ISLANDS. 

Our route took us through the Adriatic sea and among the 
Grecian Islands. The scenery of these islands is as charmin^ 
to-day as when it attuned to song the soul of many an ancient 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



98 



bard. Our steamer stopped at Corfu to take on cargo. Corfu is 
the largest island of the group. A royal palace on this island 
is one of the favorite resorts of the king and queen of Greece. 
Some of the natives came on board of our vessel with oranges 
for sale. They wear long, loose garments, with a covering for 




|§g£§l!§§pl^sf' 

the head made of the same material. Many of the inhabitants 
of Corfu are disreputable and dangerous characters. A number 
of our company desired to go on shore and see the town; but 
the captain assured them that thieves and robbers infest the 



94 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

island, and that their lives would be endangered. Strangers 
are often decoyed and led into the hands of lawless men by 
the boatmen and others in whom they confide. 

Our illustration shows some of these daring marauders, with 
their weapons and in their usual costume. The mountainous 
parts of Greece, which are difficult of access, abound with 
these brigands, or highway robbers, who come down from the 
mountains and not only rob travelers, but also waylay and 
carry off rich people or their children, and release them only 
on the payment of a large sum of money. They have been 
known to cut off the ears or fingers of their captives, and send 
them in a letter to their relatives, the further to excite their 
pity; and when the payment of the money was still delayed, 
they have cruelly put their victims to death. 

In the island of Sicily, too, highway robbers are so numerous 
that scarcely any foreigner or wealthy native can travel in 
safety; and the custom of some of them is to give large sums 
to the robber-chiefs that they may travel unmolested. 

IN THE ARCHIPELAGO. 

On the way we came in view of the heights of Missolonghi, 
crowned by the ruins of the fortress where Lord Byron died 
with yearnings for the freedom of his adopted home, the land 
of Greece. On July second we passed the southern coast of 
Greece and continued to sail among the charming isles of the 
Archipelago. They are not only bright gems of the sea, but 
places whose associations are interwoven with the lives 
of noted men and women. The Isle of Samos is where 
Herodotus wrote mauy of his valuable histories, and Lesbos 
was the home of Sappho, the Greek poetess. Next we entered 
the Hellespont, the channel made familiar to many by 
the story of Leander, the gay hero, who for love, nightly swam 
its waters, until at last, battling with the storm he sank 
beneath its waves. The place was also pointed out to us 
where Lord Byron swam the Hellespont. We cast anchor at 
Constantinople in the night. The next day was the Fourth 
of July. In the morning, as the silvery mist dispersed before 
the rising sun, I obtained my first view of the city, which for 
situation, is one of the loveliest on the globe. It liea between 



AROUND THE WORLD. 95 

two continents and two seas, and its white marble palaces are 
washed by the blue waves of the Bosphorus. The dark green 
foliage of the cypress trees forming a back-ground and inter- 
spersed among the white houses of the city, makes a charming 
picture. 

CONSTANTINOPLE. 

We had but one day to spend in the city, and were "anxious 
to reach the shore. Our boat was lowered from the steamer 
and we were rowed among the great war ships stationed in the 
harbor; and on reaching the dock we stepped on shore and 
made good use of the time in sight-seeing. My husband was 
familiar with the various places of interest, having visited 
Constantinople before. 

Oar illustration shows Pera, the new port, in the fore-ground, 
separated from Stamboul, the Mohammedan quarter, by the 
Golden Horn and the Sea of Marmora. I saw many strange 
scenes in this day's visit to Constantinople, and left it 
with a feeling of regret that I could not stay _ longer. My 
description of the city will be given in my tour of the 
following year. 

BEAUTIES OF THE BOSPHORUS. 

Continuing our journey we had a delightful vo3^age through 
the Bosphorus. This channel is eighteen miles in length and 
unites the waters of the sea of Marmora with the Black Sea. It 
is famed for its charming variety of scenery aud for the palaces, 
castles, and villages upon its shores. The Bosphorus is on eof 
the finest channels in the world. The distance from Constan- 
tinople to Odessa is three hundred and fifty miles. We spent 
one da}- and two nights in crossing the Black Sea. The bodies 
of water through which we passed on this vo} y age show a 
difference in color, some being a light and others a dark 
blue, according to their densit} r . The Adriatic and fhe 
Mediterranean seas contain a very large amount of salt — seven 
pounds to thirty-six gallons of water. At Constantinople the 
water contains only three and a half pounds to thirty-six 



9(5 



TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 












S3 




Jh: II WlJIif 



^rfv L 



il'BpM 



AROUND THE WORLD. 97 

gallons, while the water of the Black Sea at Odessa is so clear 
and sweet that the cattle drink it. 

ARRIVAL AT ODESSA. 

We arrived at Odessa on July sixth, having completed the 
voyage of one thousand three hundred and sixty miles in 
eight days. A brisk breeze was blowing from the shore, which 
for several hours prevented our landing. The custom house 
officers came on board and made a careful examination of the 
baggage of the passengers. On landing we had to go to the 
custom house, where it was examined the second tim£, and 
each parcel sealed and stamped. Before we could enter the 
cicy our passport also had to be examined. The passport 
•system of Russia yields to the government annually an average 
of two million roubles, equal to one million six hundred 
thousand dollars. 

Odessa is an important sea-port and commercial city. It 
contains many handsome edifices and has some good bazaars. 
Although Odessa is in latitude 46° 29', the heat becomes very 
intense in summer, the temperature often rising to 120°. This, 
with the dryness of the soil, makes vegetation very poor. The 
population is near two hundred thousand. 

A JOURNEY TO KIEF. 

After spending one month at Odessa we went to Kief. 
This journey by rail was four hundred and ninety miles, and 
occupied one day and night. Our route took us through a 
fine agricultural region, and forests of pine, birch and oak. 
Kief is the chief town of the government of that name, and 
had a population in 1874 of -a little more than one hundred 
and twenty thousand, one-third of whom are Poles. It was 
here that the Russian faith was kept alive during the 
persecution by the Tartars, and the place is held sacred in the 
memory of her people; and for this reason some writers have 
denominated it the "Jerusalem of Russia." It possesses a charm 
which can not fail to interest the most casual observer, and to 
fascinate him who carefully studies its present and holds in 
view the legends and events of its past. The city consists of 
three distinct parts or towns: Podal, the business quarter; 

13 



98 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

Pechera, where there are two of the finest convents in Europe, 
and which are visited annually by thousands of pilgrims and 
monks; and Vich Gerod, where stood the palaces of the 
Tartars in the days of Asiatic rule. Here statues were 
erected and worship offered to pagan gods. I was present at 
one of the great gatherings of the pilgrims and monks at the 
convents. It was a fine summer morning and the drive was 
delightful, along broad avenues bordered with beautiful trees, 
among palatial mansions with their handsome grounds and 
parks, and through charming villas. 

SUBTERRANEAN HOMES. 

The convents are two in number, to each of which there has 
been erected a magnificent church, or cathedral. They have 
their origin from two monks — Anthon and Feodosia — who fled 
from the persecutions by the Tartars and hid themselves in the 
caves among the cliffs of the Dnieper river. Here their 
followers gathered about them in great numbers, and made for 
themselves homes by turning the caves into a labyrinth of 
rooms. These subterranean homes became also their tombs. 
In after years, when the Tartars had been expelled and the 
Russian power was supreme, these catacombs became places of 
veneration. Large sums of money were raised to erect over 
them the convents and churches, which are now annually 
visited by immense bands of pilgrims and believers in the 
Greek faith, from all parts of Russia. 

The catacombs are many feet under ground; and with the 
pilgrims we descended into these dismal abodes. Here lie 
buried the bones of hundreds of the so-called saints, or holy 
men. These damp, gloomy cells, excluded from the world, 
and shut in from the sunshine above, impressed us with the 
self-denial and suffering of the devotees of a strange faith. 
The same spirit ol consecrated devotion seems to actuate the 
poor pilgrims who come here to offer their prayers and shed 
their tears. 

RUSSIAN PILGRIMS. 

The cathedrals are very spacious, and finished in magnificent 
style. They have ten golden domes, and others of green and 



AROUND THE WORLD. 99 

blue, set with glittering crosses. The interior of these 
structures is quite equal to the grandeur of the domes and 
other ornamental designs of the exterior. As we neared the 
place, dense crowds of pilgrims from all quarters pressed 
toward the sacred shrines. Their numbers were so great that 
it Was with difficulty we gained admission to the places they 
held in such sacred reverence. The large and spacious 
churches were crowded until there was no standing room. 
The priests in costly robes conducted the service suited to the 
saint of that day-; for in Russia each day of the year is dedi- 
cated to some departed saint. The pilgrims in turn pressed 
forward to hear the discourse of the priest, and then passed 
round to the altars on the sides of the church, bowing 
reverently before the images of the saints, and repeating their 
prayers. These altars are decorated with costly ornaments 
and illuminated with wax candles. 

The pilgrims of Russia number many thousands. They 
spend the year in going from, one holy place to another, 
traversing the land from the Arctic Ocean to the shores of the 
Black Sea, and even to Jerusalem. They make their journeys 
on foot and carry their personal effects with them in a bundle, 
hung on a staff or thrown over the shoulder. The clothing of 
both the men and the women is of sheep-skin, with the wool 
inside, being made much alike. These garments are worn as 
long as they last, without change or cleansing; and but little 
more attention appears to be given by many of the pilgrims 
to the cleanliness of their persons. We cannot wonder that 
many among the lower classes of the Russians give themselves 
up to this wandering life and deep fanaticism, while the priest- 
hood leads them on, and the Czar of all the Russias goes down 
on his knees to kiss the images and reverence the shrines 
of the so-called saints. 

RUSSIAN WEDDING. 

While at Kief I attended a Russian wedding. The church was 
opened at 7 p. m. The bride and her attendants entered first. 
She was dressed in white with a bridal veil set with orange 
flowers, and she waited just within the doors of the church for 
the bridegroom. On his arrival they walked up before the 



100 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

iconostis, or golden screen, where they were met by the priest 
in costly robes, who performed the marriage ceremony. This 
consisted of a number of formalities, reading from the Bible, 
prayers and blessings, to which the couple responded by 
bowing and crossing themselves many times. Rings were 
given to them by the priest and exchanged with each other. 
The Bible and golden crosses were held for them to kiss. 
Gilded crowns, which they first kissed, were held over their 
heads while they joined their hands. They were then con- 
ducted by the priest three times round the altar. The crowns 
in the mean time were carried over their heads, and given 
to them when they stopped. A final blessing from the priest 
ended the ceremony. In some instances the crowns are 
worn for one week and then returned to the vestry, where 
the priest receives them and bestows his blessing. Weddings 
among the Russians are usually the occasion of great rejoicing, 
and much time is spent in singing and dancing. 

JOURNEY CONTINUED. 

From Kief we continued our journey through Russia to 
Warsaw, stopping one month at Berdecheve and Jitomer. 
These are towns of considerable size and importance, but of 
less historical note than Kief. Berdecheve is a Jewish city. 
We arrived there on Friday night and found it impossible to 
obtain anything warm for supper, as the Jews' sabbath com- 
mences at 6 p. m., after which time they do not light a fire for 
twenty-four hours. 

There being no railway from Berdecheve to Jitomer, our 
passage was made in a tarantass — a sort of covered wagon. 
This is made by lashing a raft of poles to the axles of two 
pairs of wheels, about ten feet apart, on top of which is placed 
the bed, which is made in shape of the letter V and filled with 
straw, upon which the traveler sits. 

Along our route the country was quite open and level. The 
farms were large and fine, and without fences; the timber was 
good and the general appearance like that of America. 

When the traveler starts out to see the world, he might just 
as well make up his mind in the beginning that before he gets 
around he will have to "rough it" on some occasions, and so 



AROUND THE WORLD. 101 

be able to meet it. If he rides only in palace cars, and sleeps 
on downy beds, he will know much less than half of the 
world when he reaches home. As for myself, my experience 
has certainly been varied enough, from the highest style with a 
train of fifteen servants, down to the very roughest fashion. 

Our travels in Russia on this tour occupied a period of four 
months. We left the land of the Czar at Warsaw, where we 
remained one week. 

BERLIN. 

From Warsaw we went to Berlin, the capital of Prussia and 
the seat of the imperial government of Germany. This is one 
of the finest and most important cities of Europe. It is built 
upon a fiat sandy plain, like a dreary waste, on the banks of 
the Spree river. The streams here are so sluggish that their 
motion is hardly perceptible. The sandy character of the soil 
and its flatness make it an unsuitable place for a city. In 
summer the heat arising from the sand is very intense, and 
in the winter the cold is equally so. It being so extremely 
level, water stagnates in the streets, proving detrimental to 
the health of the inhabitants. Notwithstanding all the disad- 
vantages, Berlin has rapidly increased, and of late years its 
advancement has been extraordinary. Its present population 
is about one million. 

Berlin has one of the finest streets in Europe, " Unter den 
Linden.'' It is divided into double avenues by rows of lime 
trees. On this street are the royal palace, the emperor's 
palace, the palace of the queen of Holland, and that of the 
crown prince, with many other magnificent buildings. Chief 
among the monuments of- Berlin is the colossal equestrian 
statue of Frederick the Great. On the pedestal are groups in 
bronze — life size — of the leading generals and statesmen who 
were prominent during the seven years' war. The monument 
erected in commemoration of the great victories of 1870-71, 
in the war with France, is one hundred and ninety feet high. 
The column is made of cannon taken in the engagements. 

About ninety per cent, of ihe population of Berlin are 
protestants; but only about two per cent, of this number, on 
an average, attend divine worship on Sundays! while her 



102 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

eighteen theaters (in 1870) were well patronized. I saw the 
Emperor William in the royal palace, while at Berlin. 

During the time of our visit we made a trip to Potsdam, 
sixteen miles distant. This is the handsomest and best built 
town in Prussia. It is situated on an island at the junction 
of the Nuthe and Havel rivers. Its population is near fifty 
thousand. The usual summer residence of the royal family of 
Prussia and also the «eat of the imperial court are here. 

Potsdam is a picturesque place, surrounded with pleasant 
public walks and gardens, wooded heights, and vine-covered 
banks. While here I saw the crown princess of Germany. 
Here is the palace in which Frederick the Great lived, and 
where he died. His room is preserved in the condition in 
which he left it at his death. His clocl#, that he used to wind, 
is still there; the hands point to 2:20, the hour at which he 
died. He was interred at Potsdam. His tomb is a plain 
sarcophagus, and upon it lay his sword until it was carried 
away by Napoleon I. 

DRESDEN. 

From Berlin we went to Dresden, a distance of one hundred 
and sixteen miles. Dresden is the capital of Saxony and is a 
beautiful place, located on the Elbe river. It is one of the 
greatest centers of art in Germany, and Saxony is one of the 
wealthiest kingdoms in the German confederation. The Saxon 
princes who amassed great wealth, employed it in enriching 
their capital. In one room of the royal palace there are treasures 
estimated at fifteen million dollars. One of the largest known 
pearls in the world is in this palace. The room called the 
"Court of the Great Mogul" is a marvel of splendor. It 
contains gold and gems to the amount of forty-five thousand 
dollars. The Dresden gallery of art ranks among the first in 
Europe. The great admiration of the Saxons for the fine arts 
is equaled only by their love for music. I attended worship 
one Sabbath at the Court Chapel when the king and queen, 
and the king's mother were present. The music was given by 
a grand orchestra. 



.AROUND THE WORLD. 103 

The many attractions of Dresden render it one of the 
fashionable winter resorts tor foreigners. 

CREMATION, OR BURNING OF BODIES. 

During the year in which we visited Dresden, the subject of 
cremation — burning of the dead instead of their burial— was 
being discussed. In three instances cremation had been per- 
formed at the Dresden glass factory. We visited the place and 
obtained from the manager the following facts: The first body 
burned was sent from England — cremation not being permitted 
there. It was the body of Lady Dilke, wife of Lord Dilke. She 
was a handsome lady, thirty years of age. H erself and husband 
had made an agreement that at death their bodies should be 
burned. A few months after this she died, and according to 
agreement her body was sent to Dresden. It was placed in an 
oven constructed of stone. Oxygen gas, heated to a tempera- 
ture of from eight hundred to one thousand degrees Fahrenheit, 
was turned upon it. Immediately the fire took hold of it, 
burning with a red flame. At the end of one hour and fifteen 
minutes the burning was complete. The body was entirely 
incinerated, leaving only a little mineral substance of the 
bones. The husband of this lady, at last account, was still a 
member of the British Parliament, and has his second wife. 

The cremation of human bodies appears to have been a 
general practice in early times, with the exception of in Egypt, 
where they were embalmed ; Judea, where they were laid away 
in sepulchers; and in China, where they were buried in the 
earth. At Rome, burning was the rule down to the end of the 
fourth century after Christ. Even the Jews used cremation in 
the vale of Tophet when the people were destroyed by a plague. 
There can be but little doubt that the practice in some coun- 
tries has been prevented in a great measure by convictions 
associated with the Christian doctrine of the resurrection 
of the body. 

LEIPSIC AND HAMBURG. 

On our way from Dresden to Hamburg — three hundred 
miles distant — we stopped at Leipsic. This city is situated in 
a large and fertile plain, about sixty-five miles west of north- 



104 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL . 

west from Dresden. It is noted as the principal seat of book 
selling and publishing in Germany, and in this respect it 
ranks third among the cities of the world, London being 
the first and Paris the second. Upwards of three hundred 
houses are engaged in the book trade in Leipsic. There are 
also fifty printing establishments. While here I attended 
service in the old Gothic church where Martin Luther 
preached. 

At Hamburg we remained one week and witnessed the 
interesting preparations for the Christmas holidays. This was 
my second visit to that city; but I made still another after 
this, and prefer to leave its description for a future tour. 

From Hamburg we sailed for Hull in England. We were 
two days and one night on the North Sea, which was my third 
voyage on these waters. We spent one day and night at Hull, 
and then sailed for London. This voyage occupied twenty- 
four hours, and we were again in the great metropolis. For 
three months we settled down to the enjoyment of home life, 
during which time my husband was engaged in writing for 
a monthly magazine published in the city. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 105 



FOURTH TOUR-PALESTINE. 



CHAPTER I. 



Glaciers of Switzerland — Mont Cenis Tunnel — Cathedral 
of Milan — A Royal Festival — Mementoes From a King's 
Dinner — Suez Canal — A Serious Incident — First View 
of the Holy Land. 

j|4EAVING London on the twenty-seventh day of March, 
Mrftf 1875, we set out for a tour in the Holy Land; and with 
"^Sr" but little exception our course was ever onward toward 
the east, until we had completed our tour around the world. 
We first bought tickets for Paris. This was my fifth time over 
this route, and I have before described the principal places of 
interest along the way. Sixteen hours after leaving London 
brought us to Paris. We remained here two days, and then 
proceeded to Venice over the Geneva railway. This was the 
same route over which we passed in our last tour, excepting in 
the western part of Switzerland. Here our course was through 
Savoy and into Italy through the Mont Cenis tunnel. 

GLACIERS OF SWITZERLAND. 

Savoy is the most elevated tract of land in Europe. Its 
scenery is very picturesque. It embodies the beautiful, the 
grand, the mysterious and the sublime. Stupendous moun- 
tains are piled up, range upon range, until their summits are 
so far above the earth's surface that they glitter with perpetual 
snows. But above them all rises Mont Blanc, towering 
nearly three miles toward the heavens. Immense beds and 
piles of ice form in these mountain regions. 

The glaciers originate in the regions of eternal frost, but 



106 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

descend far below the line of perpetual snows, the lowest 
limit of which in the Swiss Alps is about eight thousand five 
hundred feet above the level of the sea. The glacier descends 
about one thousand five hundred feet below this. They are 
not composed of solid ice, but consist of a mixture of ice, 
snow and water, being from three to twenty miles long, and 
from one to two miles wide, and vary in thickness from one 
hundred to six hundred feet. They come moving down the 
mountain sides with an onward flow like a river, but the 
movement is very slow, not usually more than a foot in 
twenty-four hours. From these glaciers, as they are melted 
and the waters rush down the mountain sides in mighty 
torrents, some of the principal rivers are fed. Beautiful 
cascades may be seen on these heights, rushing over rocks, and 
dashing away, breaking into spray, and adding beauty and 
grandeur to the wondrous scene. 

Lyell, the celebrated English geologist, has described the 
glacier in the following language: "When they descend steep 
slopes or precipices, or are forced through narrow gorges, the 
ice is broken up, and assumes the most fantastic and 
picturesque forms, with lofty peaks and pinnacles projecting 
above the general level." 

MONT CENIS TUNNEL. 

On April first we passed through the tunnel of Mont 
Cenis. The length of this remarkable tunnel is nine miles. 
The time occupied in passing through it was twenty minutes. 
The labor and expense required to construct this subteranean 
passage was very great, and it is one of the greatest achieve- 
ments of the nineteenth century. It links together two 
nations separated by these wondrous mountain barriers. 

We spent the night at Turin. Before leaving the next 
morning we had opportunity of viewing the city. It is a fine 
and large place. We visited the cathedral where King 
Umberto — the present ruler of Italy — was married. In this 
church his mother, the queen, is buried. 

After a journey of six hours from Turin we arrived at Milan 
just in time to see the great cathedral illuminated by the rays 
oi the setting sun. In former tours through Europe we have 



AROUND THE WORLD. 107 

given the description of many cathedrals, and we would not 
now detain our readers with further description, only we have 
come to one that is a marvel of architecture, the 

CATHEDRAL OF MILAN. 

This building has been aptly called an "Anthem sung in 
stone," "A poem wrought in marble." It is of white Carrara 
marble, which under an Italian sky has preserved its white- 
ness. Of the cathedrals of Europe it is next in size and 
magnificence to St. Peter's at Rome. The roof has more than 
one hundred Gothic spires. On the top of each spire and over 
the doors, and in many other places about the building, there 
are very fine marble statues. These number four thousand five 
hundred, many of which are of life size. Besides these statues 
there are a number of carvings of wondrous beauty. The 
cathedral is four hundred and eighty-five feet in length, and 
two hundred and fifty-two feet in width, while the height of the 
tower is three hundred and fifty-five feet. The reader can form 
some conception of the matchless beauty of this building from 
our fine illustration. There are fifty-two massive pillars, which 
support the interior arches. Each one of these is twelve feet 
in diameter and the tops are mounted with marble statues. 
Under the grand altar is the remarkable tomb of St. Carlo 
Borromeo, bishop of Milan. His benevolence was particularly 
noted during the plague of Milan, about three hundred years 
ago. The people idolized him and lavished their wealth upon 
his tomb. The walls are faced with bass relief, representing 
scenes in his life, wrought in silver. By turning a windlass 
the sarcophagus opens lengthwise, disclosing a coffin of rock 
crystal. Within lies the body, covered with costly robes 
embroidered with gold and starred with scintillating gems. 
Over the head is a crown sown thick with flashing brilliants, 
and upon the breast are crosses of gold, resplendent with 
emeralds and diamonds. The furniture of this chamber of 
death is valued at one million two hundred thousand dollars. 
In another room there are statues of saints and bishops, of life 
size, made of solid silver, and candle-sticks eight feet high in 
solid gold, set with brilliants and precious gems. 

A stair- way of two hundred steps reaches the roof from the 



108 



TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



mi 



mmm 



I SMI 




CATHEDEAL OP tVIXIj^-XT. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 109 

Inside, and three hundred steps more on the outside bring us 
into the tower overlooking the city and the regions far beyond. 
I made the ascent and walked among the tall spires. From the 
tower we had a view of surpassing grandeur spread out before 
the eye. In the east was the dim outline of the Apennines, and 
in the west the bold form of the Alps. Mont Blanc and Monte 
Rosa, with their snow-covered summits, were in full view. 
Stretching away to Switzerland were the towering peaks of the 
Alps, with their snows sparkling and glistening in the sunlight 
like a mountain of diamonds. The stupendous form and mag- 
nificent grandeur of the Milan cathedral, are enough to fill the 
mind with wonder at the achievements of man; but to ascend 
the tower and view the indescribable and awe inspiring 
greatness of nature, must fill the mind with reverence for the 
Maker of worlds. 

A ROYAL FESTIVAL. 

Leaving Milan, one day's journey brought us to Venice. We 
were there at the time the grand festival was given to the king 
of Italy and the emperor of Austria. Early in the morning of 
the day when these royal persons were to arrive, the streets 
were filled with people. Banners, flags, and decorations floated 
to the breeze from every house. The procession was to pass 
from the railway station to the square of St. Mark, along the 
Grand Canal. The houses were draped with gorgeous material, 
and the balconies crowded with ladies and gentlemen in rich 
attire, all along the route. We took our position upon the 
Rialto. While surveying the smooth waters of the Grand 
Canal, the royal guests of Italy and the emperor of Austria 
and his courtiers came suddenly into view, like one grand 
panorama. They came gracefull}'- moving up in their gondolas. 
Those occupied by the king and his guests were lined and 
cushioned with blue satin. Thirteen others from the Sindico 
were adorned with a variety of rich decorations. One repre- 
sented Egypt, and another China; one was fully decorated with 
silver trappings, and another with gold; others were in red, 
green, blue, purple, yellow, and violet. Others had a variety 
of colors blended in most beautiful harmonj.'. At the royal 
palace these honored guests were received and entertained with 



110 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

a banquet. In the evening the rewas a fine exhibition of fire- 
works. 

The scene was very grand and everything seemed to be 
suddenly transformed into a picture of great beauty. The old 
time-stained marble palaces, blackened by the mould of ages, 
appeared to possess the magnificence of newly erected temples. 
with finest carvings of alabaster, emerald, ruby and gold. This 
scene was witnessed by the imperial and royal parties who 
appeared before the crowd on the balconies of the palace. 

MEMENTOES FROM A KING'S DINNER. 

The following day a dinner was given to the king and the 
emperor at Ledo, on the sea-shore. While the king and his 
guests were enjoying the baths ; other rooms in the building 
were opened for the crowd, and they were being admitted by 
tickets when a rush was made for the door, the guards were 
overpowered and the thronging mass of waiting people pressed 
in, surrounding the table prepared for the king and the emperor, 
and carrying away mementoes from the flowers and other 
decorations. The guards were soon sufficiently reinforced, and 
the crowd were driven to other rooms by the persuasive 
influence of weapons. The king and the emperor remained 
for six days, and on the last day the king held a general 
review of the Italian troops. On the following morning these 
titled guests left the city amid great demonstrations of honor,, 
and the firing of salutes from the gun-boats lying at anchor in 
the harbor. 

After six days in Venice we went by rail to Trieste. We 
remained here one day and then sailed on the steamer Espero, 
for Alexandria, Egypt. This was my second voyage through 
the Adriatic sea, and among the isles of Greece. In crossing 
the Mediterranean we passed near the island of Candia, (the 
ancient Crete) adorned with statety groves and tropical fruits, 
and crowned with the snow-capped crest of Mount Ida. The 
voyage occupied five days- We landed at Alexandria on 
April fifteenth and spent two weeks in viewing the wonders of 
Egypt. We went from Alexandria to Cairo, and visited the 
Pyramids, and Memphis. Leaving Cairo we passed through 



AROUND THE WORLD. Ill 

Goshen to Ismalia. This town has sprung up in the desert 
at about the central point on the Suez Canal. 

The continents of Asia and Africa, are separated, and the 
Mediterranean and Red seas are connected by this canal. It is 
about eighty-five miles in length, with a depth below the 
water level of twenty-six feet, and a width at the bottom of 
seventy-two feet. The deepest cut along the line is about 
eighty-five feet, with a width of five hundred feet at the 
summit-level. The total cost was a little more than fifty-five 
million dollars. The canal tax for freight is ten francs (about 
two dollars) per ton, and the same per head for passengers. 
The receipts average about five million dollars per annum. 




3 XT 3B Z C -A. IT «&. Xj . 

By this canal the route from London to Bomba}^ is shortened 
by twenty-four days, and from Marseilles or Genoa, about 
thirty days. 

We left Ismailia by the steamboat at 5 p. m., and arrived at 
Port Said at 1 a. m. the next day. Our voyage would have 
been pleasant enough but for the vast number of mosquitoe?, 
which kept an incessant buzzing about us. But while awake 
fighting these intruders, we were favored with a view of the 
desolate waste of sand through which this canal passes; and 
we also had a view of some fine steamers which passed us 
during the night. This canal runs through what is commonly 
received as the fertile Goshen of antiquity; but it is now a 



112 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

wretched, uninhabitable waste, consisting of sand and stone, 
interspersed here and there with salt swamps or lakes. 

THK ANCIENT CANAL. 

It is certain that in ancient times a canal, connecting the 
Mediterranean and Red seas, did exist. Some writers fix the 
time of its execution to six hundred years B. C. under Pharoah 
and Necho. This in time became choked up with sand, but 
was again restored by Trojan early in the second century. 
This was again obstructed, and remained unused until the 
conquest of Egypt by Amrou — the Arab general of the calif 
Omar — when it was again re-opened, and continued in use 
for more than one hundred years. It was then [again 
blocked by the unconquerable sands, after which it was never 
opened. 

At Port Said — the port of entry on the Mediterranean — we 
waited for the steamer to Jaffa. Port Said has sprung up since 
work on the Suez Canal was commenced, but now has a popu- 
lation of ten thousand. The splendid light-house here rises to 
a height of one hundred and sixty feet, and is lighted by a 
revolving electric light, which every twenty seconds flashes a 
gleam upon the Mediterranean. The machine for generating 
the electricit}^ cost ten thousand dollars, and was made by a 
Frenchman. 

A SERIOUS INCIDENT. 

While we were at Port Said, a tragic event occurred, illus- 
trating the evils of misplaced affection. We put up at a hotel 
at which the officers of a Portugese steamer were staying while 
their vessel was under repairs. One of the young men, who 
had a wife in Lisbon, frequented the theater at which a 
German dancing girl was engaged. Becoming enamored by 
this actress, but finding that his love was not returned, his suit 
being finally rejected, he grew desperate and resolved to end his 
life. During the day he managed to borrow a double-barreled 
pistol of the doctor in the company, and at the dinner table 
he assumed great levit}^; but going to his room, he wrote a 
very touching note to the girl, and also letters to some of his 
friends. Laying, them ®n the table, he took the pistol, and 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



113 



turning the muzzle to his face, discharged the weapon. One 
ball knocked out two of his teeth and dropped to the floor, 
while the second, entering the mouth, lodged under the skin 
on the side of the neck. It is curious how the ball could reach 
that place Avithout vital injury; but there it was. The surgeon 
Who attended him 4nvited me to see him the next morning. 
He had some fever and headache; but his ''heart-ache," he 













said, was entirely cured, and he hoped to live to be a better 
man. 

FIRST VIEW OF THE HOLY LAND. 

At the time of our sailing from Port Said, the weather was 
father stormy ; the sea was quite rough, the breakers were 

15 



114 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

running high, and lashing against the shore when I took my 
first view of the Holy Land. It was 11 a. m. April twenty- 
ninth when we landed at Jaffa — the historical old Joppa of 
the Bible, one among the oldest towns of the world. Its 
history, which I had learned when but a school-girl away back 
in the State of Ohio, associated with the thought of now 
walking through its streets, awakened feelings too sacred to 
describe. To say nothing of its history during the days of 
Joshua; or when Solomon commenced building the house of 
the Lord, and the cedars which the king of Tyre cut upon 
Lebanon were floated down to Joppa; or when Jonah sailed out 
from its harbor in his attempt to flee to Tarshish, instead of 
going to Nineveh — the New Testament history itself is enough 
to make the place sacred. Here dwelt Tabitha, named also 
Dorcas, whom Peter raised from the dead. It was here that 
Simon the tanner lived, at whose house Peter lodged. It was 
here that the wonderful mercy and wisdom of heaven was 
revealed by the great sheet let down before the apostle. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 115 



CHAPTER II, 

Landing at Jaffa — The House-top Where Peter Prayed 
— The Rose of Sharon— Tower of Forty — A View From 
the Tower — Off to the Holy Gity — Kirjath-Jearim — 
First Sight of the Holy City — Entrance of Jerusalem. 

tOON after landing we went to the Latin convent, where 
I we stored all our baggage not needed in the tour 
•*%.* in Palestine. At most places in the Holy Land 
Land travelers must stop at Catholic convents, unless they are 
provided with their own tents, there being no hotels nor houses 
in which strangers may lodge, After our goods were safely 
stowed away 5 and we had enjoyed a little season of rest, we 
went out to view the city. 

Joppa is built upon a rocky hilL on the very edge of the 
Mediterranean Sea, The streets are narrow and winding. The 
houses are principally built of gray stone and with flat roofs. 
There is nothing specially attractive about the place excepting 
its past history. Groves of orange, lemon, citron, fig, and pom- 
egranate trees form a broad belt on the east side of the town. 
The oranges that grow here are of immense size and rich in 
flavor, and famed throughout all Syria. The plain of Sharon, 
with its lovely flowers and bright verdure, stretches inland 
eastward from the city, while the mountains of Ephraim 
rising up toward the sky form a beautiful back-ground and 
make a lovely picture. 

THE HOUSE-TOP WHERE PETER PRAYED. 

We were shown a house, on top of which it is said Peter was 
praying when the remarkable vision occurred. The house is 
built of stone and has several apartments and a flat stone roof. 
Whether or not this was really the house on which Peter was 
in prayer when the great sheet was let down, filled with all 



116 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

manner of four-footed beasts and creeping things, we can not 
say, but it certainly answers well to the New Testament 
description. It is a very ancient one, and being strongly 
built of stone, it is well calculated to endure the wear of ages. 
The house stands close by the sea-shore, and its terraced front 
is washed by the waves. As I stood upon this roof and 
meditated upon events that so long ago transpired here, it 
seemed to bring over me a feeling of holy reverence. I took a 
drink from the well from which it was said Peter used to 
drink. It is supplied by a spring, which has furnished water 
sufficient for the tanner's trade ever since the days of the 
apostle. 

Jaffa is the port of Jerusalem, from which it is thirty-six 
miles, or twelve hours distant. Distances in this country 
are measured by time, three miles to the hour. There are only 
two carriage roads in Syria. One of these is from Jaffa to 
Jerusalem, the other from Damascus to Beyrout over the 
Lebanon Mountains. Tourists generally start from Jaffa to 
Jerusalem in the after noon, and rest for the night at Ramleh. 
By leaving Ramleh early in the following morning they reach 
Jerusalem in the afternoon. We adopted this plan, and made 
the journey on horseback. Most of the traveling in that 
country is done either on foot, or on horses, mules, camels, or 
donkeys. 

Our route lay across the Plain of Sharon. It is a long, low, 
plain, running southward to Philistia. In the early history 
of Israel it was noted for its pasturage. This is the Sharon 
of which the prophet Isaiah spoke many hundreds of years 
before Christ. 

THE ROSE OF SHARON. 

At the time of our journey all nature was wrapped in the 
bright green mantle of early spring. Numerous flowers of 
many hues were to be seen on every hand. I wondered if 
among them grew the Rose of Sharon, that renowned and 
beautiful flower of Old Testament note. There were the lily, 
the tulip, the hyacinth, and a score of other flowers; and there 
too, was a rose, but who could tell whether it were the flower 
to which Solomon likened his beloved. Those best informed 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



117 



say that it is impossible now to determine just what flower was 
meant. Sure it is that Solo non has passed away and the 
knowledge of the particular flower may have been lost, but 
the God who made it can never die, nor His gloiw fade away. 



TOWER OF FORTY. 



At Ramleh we spent the night at the convent. The monks 
were pleased to find that we could speak with them in French, 

Italian and Spanish, and 

they prepared us a good 

supper of chicken, olives, 

figs, and many nice things. 

At this town there are the 

- t ,^-,/j ruins of a tower, called the 

%J^}j^ "Tower of the Forty," so 

named from the tradition 

that forty martyrs were 

buried here. It stands 

amidst ruins said to be 

I those of a mosque. 

| Ramleh is thought to be 

\ the Arimathea of the New 

| Testament, and the home 

| of Joseph in whose tomb 

Hi; the body of Jesus was laid. 

It is also supposed to be the 

birth-place of the prophet 

Samuel. In more modern 

days it holds a prominent 

place in the history of the 

invaded that district, and, 

It 
The invaders entered and 




TO"WS:E2, OF 7 FOETT. 

Crusaders. In A. D. 1099 they 

approaching the city, found it deserted by the inhabitants. 

was a walled town, with four gates. 

found rest and refreshments. 



A VIEW FROM THE TOWER. 

The Tower of the Forty is a hundred feet high. We went 
to the top to get a fine view of the country, and watch the 
setting sun as he went down in the glory of his majesty. The 



118 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

view was a fine one. The Sharon plain lay before us, the blue 
Mediterranean waters spread out like the sky to the west, and 
the barren mountains of Jndea rose up in the east, while to 
the north-east the village of Lydda appeared in view. It was 
at this latter place that Peter said to one afflicted, " Eneas, 
Jesus Christ maketh thee whole," and he rose up immediately 
and all that dw<4t at Lydda and Sharon saw him and turned 
to the Lord. It was from this place and soon after this occur- 
rence, that Peter was called to Joppa and raised Dorcas from the 
dead. Across over the country were to be seen flocks of sheep 
and goats, returning to the fold. Vividly did it bring to 
memory the words of the prophet : " Sharon shall be a fold for 
flocks," and also the forcible lessons taught by our Savior from 
the shepherd and his flock. Around the town are large 
gardens, enclosed with enormous cactus hedges, which present 
a very singular appearance. 

OFF TO THE HOLY CITY, 

The next morning we were up early, and before sunrise we 
were on our way to the Holy City. It was the first day of 
May and a bright and lovely morning. 

Adjacent to Ramleh, are extensive burial places. As we 
passed out of town, beggars and lepers came from the tombs 
with doleful cries. With extended hands, which disease had 
eaten away, joint by joint, they begged for alms. Scattering 
a few coins amongst them, we hastened away from a scene too 
horrible to contemplate. 

Soon after leaving Ramleh the country is quite rough. 
The road winds through crooked ravines, over rocky hills and 
along rugged banks. It continues to ascend until we reach 
Jerusalem, which has an elevation of two thousand five 
hundred feet above the level of the sea. The road leads 
through the valley Ajalon, where, at the command of Joshua, 
the sun and moon stood still in the heavens while Israel 
defeated their enemies-, Ajalon, is a broad valley, inclosed by 
bounded hills. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 119 

Passing through one of the wild ravines of this section we 
came upon 

KIRJAT H— J EARIM. 

This is a small village, but of very ancient date. It was at 
this place that the Ark of the Covenant rested for twenty 
years after being recovered from the Philistines, before its 
removal to Jerusalem by David. Near three thousand years 
ago the Ark had been taken from the tabernacle at Shiloh, 
and borne before the armies of Israel. They trusted in this 
symbol of God's presence to secure to them victory, but Israel 
had sinned against the Lord, and His presence went not with 
them. They were overcome in battle and the Ark was taken 
by their enemies. It was carried about from place to place, 
but God never intended that the profane hands of unbelievers 
should pollute it. It was the consecrated symbol of His 
presence and glory, and wherever it went His judgments came 
upon the people. At last great fear took hold of them and 
they sent it back to its own people. It was taken to the house 
of Abinadab in Kirjath-Jearim, and Eleazer, his son, was sanc- 
tified to keep it until David became king and prepared a place 
for it on Mount Zion. Its removal to Jerusalem was attended 
with sacred ceremonies, and it is supposed that the one hundred 
and thirty-second Psalm was written on the occasion of 
placing the ark in the temple. The thought of this being the 
resting place of the ark seemed to impart something of a 
peculiar sanctity, and almost made us desire to linger there; 
but the place where it stood for hundreds of years as the 
center of Israel's worship had not yet been reached, and we 
must press on. 

Our way led us along rocky hill-sides and mountain passes, 
and down into deep glens. A dense, tangled growth of 
dwarfish bushes, and wild grottoes, and jagged rocky cliffs 
make this region a fit place for robbers and banditti, for which 
in years past it has been noted. 

FIRST VIEW OF THE HOLY CITY. 

As we ascended a lofty precipitous mountain, about 3 p. m., 
a broad plateau spread out before us, and the Holy City burst 



120 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

upon our view ! With emotions, such as I never felt before, 1 
viewed the hallowed spot of our redemption. With the 
psalmist I could but exclaim, "Beautiful for situation, the joy 
of the whole earth I " Rising up before us were the walls and 
houses and domes and pinnacles of the Holy City, with the 
Mount of Olives just beyond. How the history of past ages 
came crowding upon my mind. As I viewed the place of 
many a sacred scene and tragic event, the words of the Italian 
poet were verified in my experience ; 

"At first transported with the pleasing sight, 
Each Christian bosom glowed with full delight; 
But deep contrition soon their joy suppressed, 
And holv sorrow saddened every breast ' f 
Scarce dare their eyes the city walls survey, 
Where clothed in flesh, once their Redeemer lay." 

Much depends upon the side from which Jerusalem is 
approached as to the view it presents. From the north on the 
Damascus road, or from the Mount of Olives on the east, the 
scene is grand and impressive. 

We entered the Jaffa gate, and remembering the beautiful 
words, " Our feet shall stand within thy gates, Jerusalem,' 7 
I could but lift my heart in thanksgiving to Him who had 
directed my feet and led me within these walls. The medita- 
tion of my heart was soon broken by the confused scenes 
around us. Just within the gate were seated the toll collectors, 
and crowds of people were passing to and fro with camels, 
horses, donkeys and mules ; there were women with bundles 
of wood on their heads, which they had gathered on the hills : 
there were beggars and lepers, all of which helped to make up 
the strange medley. 

VIEW OF JERUSALEM. 

OHir illustration shows the entrance to Jerusalem by way of 
the Jaffa gate, just to the right as you enter is the remarkable 
lower of Hippicvjs, sometimes called the "Tower or Castle of 
D'avid." If is built of massive stone, and for a considerable 
height above its foundation, it is formed of the natural rock,, 
hewn and faced into shape. This tower is very ancient, for it 
g-tood there in the days- of Jo?ephus.. Some date its origin 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



121 




122 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

back even to the time of David. How strange are the feelings 
that come over us, as we stand gazing upon structures of 
such wonderful antiquity. 

On the left was the American Consulate, from which the stars 
and stripes were floating. We went to this place to obtain a 
permit to visit the mosque of Omar. For the permit and an 
attendant, we were charged five francs. During the ten days 
we spent in Jerusalem, we made our home at the Casa Nuova, 
in the Latin quarter. Here we obtained comfortable rooms, 
and met some parties belonging to a company of Mr. Cook's — 
the renowned tourist. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 123 



CHAPTER III. 

Damascus Gate — Church of the Holy Sepulcher — Turkish 
Guards — The Holy Sepulcher — Other Holy Places — 
Mount Moriah — The Ancient Temple — Mosque of Omer 
— Sacred Rock — Praying Before the Mosque — An 
Anceint Church — Solomon's Stables — Wailing Place of 
the Jews. 

fERUSALEM is truly an ancient city, and there clusters 
around its history associations that make it the dearest 
place in the world. It seems almost irreverent to walk 
through its streets without uncovered heads. The city is still 
defended by massive walls, about nine feet in thickness and 
averaging forty feet in height. As we read of the vast multi- 
tudes which assembled there in the time of our Savior, and 
of its greatness and grandeur, it is hard to divest the mind of 
the idea that it is a very great city, but the present dimension 
of its walls is only about two and one-half miles in circum- 
ference. Of ancient Jerusalem, Josephus says, that the area 
within its walls did not exceed one mile square, and yet we are 
informed that two and a half millions of people were assembled 
there at the Passover when Festus was governor. The city 
has four principal gates. On the west is the Jaffa Gate, on 
the north the Damascus Gate, on the east St. Stephen's Gate, 
on the south the Gate of Zion. 

DAMASCUS GATE. 

Our illustration gives a fine view of this, the most elegant 
entrance to the city now in use. It is the thoroughfare of 
travel from the northern country. On each side of the gate 
are massive towers for the protection of this entrance. A 
portion of the walls, together with their towers, are shown in 
connection with the gate. They are of gray limestone rock. 



12:4 



TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



Not only the Avails of the modern city, but many of the' 
houses and streets, are made of the remains of ancient 
Jerusalem, among which are the fragments of the temple. On 
the east, in the wall of the Mosque of Omar,, columns of finest 
marble of porphyry and serpentine (from the ancient ruins) 
are built in among the limestone. In some places these 





' ! M 



ft f w:# 



columns are whole and erect; in others they are broken off and 
laid in the Avail horizontally, AA r ith the ends projecting. 

What was called the pinnacle of the temple in the NeAV 
Testament, is noAA r the south-eastern portion of the wall of the 
Mosque of Omar, and is nearly eighty feet high. This is a 
most imposing relic of ancient Jerusalem. 



CZHZtTPSCrEa: OE^ TEEES EEOEj-E" SEPXTLCHEB. 



12S 



126 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

In our first walk through this wonderful city, we were 
drawn by a crowd of pilgrims to the Church of the Holy 
Sepulcher. This church is a vast structure, with numerous 
chapels, and is built over the reputed tomb oi our Savior. For 
fifteen hundred years this has been the chief place of attrac- 
tion for the Christian pilgrims. The place of this church was 
fixed upon by Constantine, and the date of its dedication 
was A. D. 335. Since that time it has undergone many 
changes. The church is about two hundred and thirty 
feet long from east to west, and two hundred from north to 
south. It has two domes, the largest of which is sixty-five feet 
in diameter, and stands over the holy sepulcher; the smaller 
is over the Greek church. The entrance is by way of a double 
door on the south. On each side of the door are columns 
standing out from the wall and supporting richly sculptured 
mouldings also figures, representing Christ's triumphant entry 
into Jerusalem. Over the doors are two corresponding 
windows, all of which may be better understood by reference 
to our illustration. 

TURKISH OUARDS. 

Turkish guards in uniform, with guns and gleaming- 
bayonets, are stationed on the inside of the door to keep rival 
Christian sects from quarreling over the tomb of their Savior. 
Some of these guards are seated on cushioned divans, 
smoking their pipes and drinking coffee. It may seem strange 
to our readers that these military men should be stationed 
about the tomb of the Prince of Peace to preserve order among 
those who come to worship at this shrine. But thousands 
with conflicting opinions and interests come here to worship 
or view the place. A variety of Christian sects congregate 
and have their chapels, altars, and paraphernalia of worship 
about this immense structure. Deeply seated jealousies and 
prejudices have often led to controversies and unholy strife, 
and these soldiers have sometimes been compelled to quell 
bloody feuds at the point of the bayonet. 

In front of the door of this sacred structure, is a large fiat 
stone, placed in the floor, over which a number of lighted 



AROUND THE WORLD. V27 

lamps hang ; this is called the stone of unction. It is said to 
be where the body of our Lord was laid for anointing, and 
preparation for burial. 

THE HOLY SEP'JLCHER. 

A little farther on, and immediately under the great dome, 
stands a miniature chapel of the Holy Sepulcher. It is twenty- 
six feet long and eighteen feet broad, and profusely orna- 
mented. The whole exterior is nearly covered with pictures, 
crucifixes, and images, while gold and silver lamps — presented 
by the sovereigns of different lands — hang all about the 
building, and standing by it are several monstrous wax 
candles, almost as large as a man's body, and eight or ten feet 
high. The chapel is made of rose-colored marble, and 
surmounted by a crown-shaped cupola. 

It contains two small chambers. The first we come to on 
entering, is called the "Chapel of the Angel," and said to be 
the place where the angel sat after he had rolled away the 
stone. This room is ten or twelve feet square, and contains 
what is reputed to be a part of the stone rolled from the door 
of the sepulcher. 

Through a low door we entered a smaller room, called the 
"Chapel of the Sepulcher," which is about six by seven feet. 
This contains the tomb itself. The entire floor, walls, and 
ceiling of this room are lined with white polished marble, 
and the walls of the "Chapel of the Angel" are of the same. 
Forty-two lamps of gold and silver, richly carved, are 
suspended over an elevated marble slab, running along the 
right side of the chapel as you enter. A number of these 
lamps are kept constantly- burning, shedding a mellow light 
about the room. This marble slab is said to cover the place 
where the body of our Lord was laid. Whether this is true 
or not I can not tell, and yet I felt a solemn reverence while 
here; and beside the marble slab we knelt, and, repeating 
the Lord's prayer, offered our humble tribute of thanks for the 
goodness and merciful protection of an Allwise Providence 
during our travels. What reflections crowd in upon the mind 
at such an hour as this no tongue can tell. Scenes of the 
tragic event when the mangled and bleeding form of the 



i-> 



TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



world's Redeemer hung upon the cross, and when he wa^ 
borne by his afflicted disciples to this receptacle of the dead, 
and when the angel hands rolled away the ponderous stone, 
and when the conquering Son of God rose triumphant over 
the last enemy, these— all these — with a hundred others that 
cluster about them, can but awaken the deepest and most 
solemn thoughts. 

Was it here that the weeping Marys came at the approaching 
dawn to embalm the boclv of their Lord '? Was it here that 



--5! 




THE SOL? 'SS^-ZTLCEuISlS,. 

the terrified keepers fell as dead men before the presence of the 
angel sent from the courts of glory? Is this the spot where. 
Mary came so early to weep, and saw the burial-clothes lying, 
after her risen Lord had gone? If this be the place, then I 
was kneeling where death was vanquished, and where the hope 
of a glorious immortality burst in upon the world ! 0, blessed 
thought! 0, hallowed spot! if here the bands of death were 
u. «.. .: ..:.'. .'...■ :;:'.'■• \ <?1 >rv sot ajar. , But how chano;ed is 



AROUND THE WORLD. 129 

the place since that sorrowful Sabbath, when the body of our 
Lord lay there! The hand of the architect has cut and carved 
away all of its unadorned simplicity. A longing to see the 
place just as it was on the morning of the resurrection came 
stealing over me. 

" O ! for that tomb in its simple guise, 

Where the earliest of his mourners came — 
Came ere the stars of Syria's cloudless skies 
Grew pale before the morning's burst of flame." 

On the marble slab at the side of the sepulcher are placed 
silver plates, in which visitors may deposit offerings. At one 
end of this slab or elevation, a monk, in his long gown, stands 
with perfumed or holy water, and with a kind of wand 
sprinkles the visitors. As I cast in my coin and received the 
sprinkling of the perfumed water, I remembered that the 
offering which would be acceptable to Him who rose from this 
tomb was my own life, and the incense that of a contrite and 
adoring heart. 

Around the Holy Sepulcher tradition has located numerous 
holy places, such as the place where Jesus was scourged, and 
where he was crowned with thorns, and the place of His 
crucifixion, and the tomb of Adam, and of Joseph of 
Arimathea, and many others. These are all covered by the 
Church of the Holy Sepulcher. Only a few yards from the 
tomb of the Savior, a flight of steps lead up to the Chapel of the 
Crucifixion, said to cover Calvary. This room is forty feet long 
and about fifteen feet wide. At one end of this room there is 
a platform ten feet long and six feet wide, upon which stands 
a very richly decorated altar. Beneath this platform there is 
a hole in the stone floor, cased with silver, and this is said to 
be the place where the cross of Jesus stood. A few feet from 
this are shown the places where the crosses were erected on 
which the two thieves were crucified. Near by is shown a rock 
with a long rent in it, said to have been made at the time of 
the crucifixion. 

In another part of the Church of the Sepulcher, and far 
below the level of the floor — even sixteen feet below the Chapel 
of the Sepulcher — is the Chapel of St. Helena, and thirteen feet 
below this is a cavern in the solid rock, about twenty -four feet 

17 



130 TEN YEARS 7 TRAVEL 

square, where, it is asserted, the cross of Christ was found 
Much vagueness, and even the most glaring superstition is 
associated with some of the places pointed out and the history 
connected with them, and yet there are many things which 
make some of these places very dear to the Christian. But 
these human adornments and artificial trappings seem to 
rob the places of much of their sacred purity; at least to the 
devout worshipper, these additions of human art rind genius 
add nothing that is attractive. Surely the genius of man can 
add nothing to the moral grandeur and glory that belongs to 
Cavalry. Can the glittering pageantry that adorns the tomb 
of our risen Lord, awaken deeper, purer emotions than the 
unadorned sepulcher, as it was when Jesus arose? As for 
myself, I would rather view those places as they were, before 
superstition and misguided bigotry lavished such wealth and 
foolish legends upon them. 

MOUNT MORIAH. 

We will next make our way to Mount Moriah, which stands 
in the south-east portion of the walled city. This place is 
sacred to the Jew, revered by the Mohammedan, and by reason 
of its past history it is very dear to the Christian. Mount 
Zion is on the west and Mount Olivet on the east of Moriah. 
By reference to our illustration, the reader may get a better 
knowledge of the situation of Mount Moriah, and the places 
of special interest which surround Jerusalem. 

The mountain is surrounded by a massive stone wall, some 
portions of which are supposed to have been erected by 
Solomon when the temple was built — for it was here the 
ancient Jewish Temple stood. Some of the most interesting 
of the Old, as well as the New Testament history, is connected 
with this mountain, for many miraculous occurrences, from 
Abraham's day down to the time of Christ, have transpired 
here. Near four thousand }>"ears ago, Abraham journeyed 
from Beersheba to this place, and with his son, and the wood and 
fire, ascended to the top of the mountain, prepared to offer 
his son as he believed, according to the mandate of Heaven. 
Here God made known the offering that had been prepared 
by himself by which the life of his son was spared, and a new 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



131 



revelation given of his purpose to keep inviolate his promise 
to make of the seed of Abraham a mighty nation. Eight 
hundred years after this, when Oman, the Jebusite — who had 
made a threshing-floor of this mountain — was here engaged 




with his sons in threshing wheat, Jerusalem, for David's sin in 
numbering the people — was threatened with destruction. The 
angel of the Lord stood by the threshing-floor with a drawn 
sword in his hand stretched over the city, and Oman and his 



132 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

sons saw the angel and fled, and David saw the same, and 
with the elders repented in sack-cloth. David hastened to the 
summit of the mountain and bought the threshing-floor of 
Oman for six hundred sheckels, of gold, and built an altar, 
and sacrificed to God and the avenging hand was staid. It was 
this place that became the center of worship by God's chosen 
people, and here the Holy Shekinah dwelt. 

THE ANCIENT TEMPLE. 

It was on the summit of Mount Moriah that the wondrous 
temple — the pride and glory of all Israel — was erected by Sol- 
omon. After having stood for over four hundred years it was 
plundered, destroyed, and left a heap of ruins by the Chal- 
deans. It was again rebuilt, and after the changes of five 
hundred years had passed over it, Herod rebuilt and adorned 
it. To accomplish this, required the labor of eighty thousand 
men for nine years. This grand and gorgeous edifice, was the 
temple which was standing in the time of Christ, and of which 
He prophesied that not one stone should be left upon another 
which should not be thrown down; and this, He declared 
should come to pass before that generation should passed 
away. Less than fort}^ years after this Titus conquered the 
city and so completely demolished the temple, that the 
prophesy was literally fulfilled ! About fifty years after this a 
splendid temple was erected to Jupiter, on this spot. Centuries 
[Kissed away, and this sacred mount underwent many changes, 
and fell into the hands of the Mohammedans, who built 
their Harem there and for six hundred years kept it guarded, 
no Christian or Jew being granted the privilege of visiting 
it. In 1856 this cruel intolerance was so far modified as to 
allow Christians to visit it upon the payment of five dollars 
each. 

THE MOSQUE OF OMAR. 

On the summit of Moriah, on a raised base of white marble, 
stands a beautiful temple — the Mosque of Omar. It is a 
regular octagon, sixty-seven feet on each side, and one hundred 
and forty-eight feet in diameter on the inside. The building- 
is crowned with a dome sixty feet in diameter, which rises to 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



133 




134 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

the height of about one hundred and forty-four feet, and from 
which rises a gjiden crescent, the whole being covered with 
bright porcelain tiles, giving it a very grand appearance. The 
walls of the main building are encased in rich marble of 
various colors, which makes a glittering show. The sides are 
pierced by numerous windows of the richest stained glass. 
Through these, floods of mellow light, as if made up from the 
many colors of the rainbow, are poured into the building. 
The mosque has four spacious doors, facing the four cardinal 
points, over each of which is a costly portico. The interior of 
the building possesses real grandeur, but partakes somewhat 
of gaudiness. A large portion of the walls and dome is lined 
with porcelain tiles very richly wrought, and forming large 
pictures of the brightest colors. Above the windows are lines 
of Arabic inscriptions from the Koran, extending around the 
whole interior of the building. The floors are of marble 
mosaic, while marble columns of various colors support the 
dome. 

THE SACRED ROCK. 

The great dome of the mosque stands over what is designated 
the " Sacred Rock." This is about fifty feet in diameter. It 
rises several feet above the floor of the mosque, and is 
surrounded by a circle of stone columns and an iron railing. 
Over it is suspended an awning composed of silk, of various 
colors. For that rock this costly building was erected. But 
why is it denominated the "Sacred Rock?" Its history is a 
very remarkable one. It is the place where Abraham offered 
Isaac, and where the angel stood with the drawn sword, and 
on which David offered sacrifices. It afterwards became the 
place of burnt-offerings in the great temple of Solomon, and 
marks the place of the Holy of Holies. The Rabbins say that 
it is the identical rock on which Jacob pillowed his head. To 
the Jews, it is the most sacred spot on earth. Yet for almost 
one thousand years they have not been permitted to approach 
it. During the time it has been in the possession of the 
Mohammedans, (with but little interruption for six hundred 
years,) they have kept it from the view of both Jew and 
Christian. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



135 



The Mohammedans are very vain and superstitious about 
this rock. They claim that when their prophet made his 
flight from Mecca in Arabia, to Jerusalem in one night, and 
thence through the heavens, that he ascended from this rock 
and on it they show his foot-prints. Their legend says that 
when he went up, the rock started from its bed and would have 




E'R.A.'SrXKr©- BEPOEE THE lvdTOSQ"Cr^!. 

followed him in his aerial flight, but Gabriel held it down, 
and on it they show the marks of his hands. They believe that 
it is still suspended in the air, supported by the miraculous 
power of God. Underneath it there is a chamber in which are 
several altars, wheer we are informed that David, Solomon, 



136 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

Elijah, and Mohammed used to pray. In this cave there is a 
well, which the Moslems believe contains the souls of the 
departed, where they will remain until the day of judgment. 
Christians believe that it furnished water for the use of the 
temple. It received its supply from the pools of Solomon, 
beyond Bethlehem. 

Next to Mecca, the Mosque of Omar occupies the most sacred 
spot in the world to Mohammedans. They come here to 
worship, and even make long pilgrimages to obtain the 
invaluable privilege of praying before this sacred building. If 
not already barefooted they always remove their shoes, for they 
count this holy ground. When we visited it we were required 
to remove our shoes at the door and, place cloth covers on our 
feet. The Moslems believe that every prayer offered in the 
cave beneath the rock will be answered. 

AN ANCIENT CHURCH. 

From the Mosque of Omar we next went to the Mosque el 
Aksa, which stands near the southern portion of the enclosure 
of Moriah. This is supposed to have been erected for a 
Christian church by Justinian in the sixth century, and 
dedicated to the Virgin Mary. It has passed through varied 
experiences, but for seven hundred years has been used as a 
mosque. Its measurement is given at two hundred and eighty 
feet in length, and one hundred and eighty-five feet m breadth. 
Its material shows that it was constructed of the ruins of 
temples and other structures. It has marble floors, and is 
ornamented with arabesque ceilings, paintings, and gildings of 
great beauty. 

Just beside this building is the royal cistern. It is hewn in 
the rock, and is about forty-two feet deep and seven hundred 
and forty feet in circumference. The roof is of rock, and is 
supported by columns of stone left standing when the cistern 
was constructed. About thirty-three similar cisterns have 
been found in the temple area. 

In this mosque stands two monolith columns of stone, about 
ten inches apart, called thr- "Pillars of Proof;" so named by 
reason of the belief that whoever passes between them will 
surely go to Heaven. To obtain this assurance, thousands 



AROUND THE WORLD. 137 

perhaps millions, have pressed themselves between these 
columns, and two or three inches of the stone has been worn 
away. This is rather a severe test for fat pilgrims, and 
many a one has squeezed hard to obtain this assurance of 
eternal life! We are told that it is an impossibility for an 
unjust man to go between them. So we are to conclude that 
here, at least, a man's avoirdupois and not the moral condition 
of his soul, is to decide his fitness for Heaven. 

SOLOMON'S STABLES. 

We next visited the subterranean chambers called " Solo- 
mon's stables," which are beneath the south-eastern corner of 
the temple plateau. These immense chambers have lofty 
arches, supported by no less than one hundred massive stone 
columns. To what use these subterranean rooms have been 
subjected no one can tell, but the visitor will have to listen to 
plenty of foolish legends as he is conducted about, shoeless and 
guarded by soldiers. 

Near by these underground chambers is a small Moslem 
oratory, or place of prayer, called the "Cradle of Christ." The 
story is told that this was the dwelling-place of Simeon, and 
that here the Virgin Mary and her holy child abode for a 
time. 

Near the south-west corner of the wall enclosing the temple 
area, on the west side, is what is called the " Wailing Place of 
the Jews." Hera many of the more devout come every day 
and sit in mournful sorrow, weeping for the desolation of the 
city, and the house of their God. But Friday afternoon is 
their special time, when they congregate in greater numbers. 
Our illustration gives a very "good idea of the appearance of the 
wall and of these sorrow-stricken mourners. This portion of 
the wall is made from stone of colossal dimensions, some of 
them measuring thirty feet six inches in length. They arc 
supposed to have formed a portion of the wall erected in 
Solomon's time. 

After the capture and destruction of the city, the Jews for a 
long time were banished from it, and not until the time of 
Constantine, were they permitted to come near enough to 
behold it from the neighboring hills. Finally they were 



138 



TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



admitted into the city to weep over its ruins, on the anniver- 
sary of its overthrow by Titus. But never since their 
banishment by Adrian, have they been permitted to worship 
within the temple area, or to set their feet upon this hallowed 
spot. Yet the memory of the temple is sacred and dear to 
them, and they assemble from the remotest parts of the earth 
to mourn the desolations that have come upon them. Among 
those who were there at the time of our visit, was a man who 




WAILIHG ^Xj-A-CE OE THE TXT^S- 

had come from Poland. It is indeed affecting to see them 
in such deep sorrow, now and then with the tears trickling 
down their cheeks, while they kiss the stone walls that have 
been beaten by the storms of ages. Here may be seen the old, 
with faltering steps and wrinkled faces, and those in the 
strength and vigor of life, and even the youth in their child- 
hood innocency may be seen in the sorrowful group. Some 
sitting, some standing, some leaning and bowing their heads 



AROUND THE WORLD. 139 

against the old time-worn walls, earnestly reading or repeating 
their prayers, of which the following is a specimen: 

"0 God, the heathen are come into thine inheritance; thy 
holy temple have they defiled. ' (> We have become a reproach 
to our neighbors; a scorn and derision to them that are round 
about us." " How long, Lord ? Wilt thou be angry forever?" 
"0 remember not against us former iniquities; let thy tender 
mercies speedily prevent us, for we are brought very low." 

It is indeed affecting to behold these manifestations of their 
humiliation and bitter disappointment. These spontaneous 
outbursts of grief are touching. 

" O weep for those who weep by Babel's stream, 
Whoso shrines are desolate, whose land's a dream — 
Weep for the harps of Judah's broken shell ; 
Mourn — where God hath dwelt the godless dwell." 

But the glory of the holy temple has forever departed ! By 
the decrees of Heaven its system of worship has long been 
at an end ; the sanctuaries of the typical system will never be 
rebuilt! This favored people have rejected the Anointed of 
God, and now they mourn as those having no hope! No 
fountains of grief nor rivers of tears, can change the purpose 
of the Almighty and cause Him to depart from the exaltations 
of the New Dispensation. No prayers nor sacrifices, can ever 
again rebuild the temple nor restore to Israel her former glory, 
while she rejects the King of Heaven, the Priest of God! 



140 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



CHAPTER IV. 

The Golden Gate — Subterranean Chambers — A Sorrow- 
ful Way — Pool of Hezekiah — Pool of Bethesda — Pools 
of Gihon — Pool of Siloam — Sepulcher of David — Place 
of the Last Supper — Ancient and Modern Jerusalem. 



•■ 



HE "Golden Gate" which enters the city wall about 
one thousand feet from the south-east corner, and near 

^p the north-east corner, of the temple area, is the most 
beautiful and expensive in architectural construction of any 
of the gates to the Holy City. For a length of fifty-five feet 
the Avail of the city projects six feet, in the .center of which is 
located this splendid gate. It once opened into the temple area, 
and it is now walled up on the outside, but on the inside the 
entrance to its chambers is still open, a view of which is given 
in our illustration on the next page. It had a double entrance, 
mounted with Roman arches supported by Corinthian columns 
on each side, richly carved and finely sculptured. Its double 
opening is supposed to have been intended to admit on one 
side, those who were entering, while on the other the crowd 
might pass out. The Golden Gate has a most magnificent 
chamber, not equaled by those of any other in Jerusalem. 
The great chambers of the gates are occupied b}^ the guards of 
the city, and sometimes used as council-chambers, and rooms 
where petty trials are conducted. 

It is not certainly known by whom this gate was created. 
Some writers have supposed that it was made as an entrance 
to the temple of Jupiter during the second century; others 
think that it is of more modern origin. The explanation of 
its being walled shut, is given in the superstitious idea held by 
the Mohammedans, that the Christians will someday endeavor 
to enter the city by this way and take possession of it. A 
little south of this gate, near the top of the massive wall, is a 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



141 



broken column of stone, upon which the Mohammedans 
assert that their prophet will sit at the end of the world. 

A few hundred yards north of the Golden Gate is St. 
Stephen's Gate. This is the principal entrance and exit for 
pilgrims from Jericho and the surrounding country. But a 

[Sllilk 




G-OLDE1T G-A.TB'. 



few rods from this gate, on the outside of the wall, it is claimed 
is the place where Stephen was stoned to death. Out of this 
gate, or a former one at the sa,me place, Christ and his disciples 
often passed. 

VAULTED SUBTERRANEAN CHAMBERS. 

A few hundred feet east of the Damascus gate, on the north 



142 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

side of the city, there is a hole in the wall which leads to the 
wonderful excavations discovered in 1852. We entered this 
opening, and started down the main passage ; clambering over 
stones and dirt, down, down we went, farther and farther, 
among the gloomy archways and into a cavern of wondrous 
dimensions, and still deepening before us. When the distance 
from the entrance had become so great that the opening to the 
light looked like a little star, and the blackness of the 
darkness so impenetrable that it seemed as if it could be felt, 
with a profound silence — fearful to experience — reigning about 
us, Ave truly felt better fitted to enjoy life above ground. But 
we must take our readers further in among the gloomy cells of 
this mysterious cavern. Of course it can only be explored by 
having some kind of artificial light. This cavern not only 
reaches nearly one thousand feet into the impenetrable pall of 
darkness, but is three thousand feet in circumference. In 
some places the ceiling is thirty feet high, and in one place 
there is a deep pit, with precipitous sides. Dr. Barclay, who 
discovered these excavations, informs us that he found the 
skeleton of a man in this pit. He had stumbled into it and 
crushed his skull upon the rocks below! 

The bottom of these chambers is very uneven, being covered 
with stone-chips, and in some places with great rocks. 
Many columns are left standing, by which the rocks from 
above are prevented from falling in. At some places, rocks 
are hanging partly severed, and almost ready \o fall from the 
ceiling. Along the sides of the chambers, there are great 
blocks of stone partly quarried, and still hanging to the native 
rock. At a distant point from the entrance, there is a spring, 
the water from which falls into a basin below. The long lapse 
of ages has hung the roof with miniature stalactites, produced 
by the water which trickles from above. Strange emotions 
crowd upon the mind as you wander about, viewing these 
gloomy regions by the light of the flickering taper. But who 
made these excavations, and for what were they intended ? 
The best conclusion is, that from these depths was taken much 
of the stone of which Solomon's temple, and the city was 
built. The rock is a soft limestone and easily worked, but 
hardens on exposure to the air. The chips and shavings 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



143 



plainly indicate that the stones were dressed and prepared for 
the buildings while in the quarry. 



A SORROWFUL WAY. 



The most interesting street in Jerusalem, and around which 
is associated more superstitious reverence than all others, is 
the Via Dolorosa, or the Way of the Cross. This street leads 
from the place of Jesus' condemnation, to that of his execution. 







VIA nOLOISOSA. 

No less than fourteen sacred places are pointed out along this 
way, and connected with the sorrowful journey to the cross. 
Spanning this street is the arch " Ecce Homo," the place it is 
said where Pilate brought Jesus out before the multitude and 
said, " Behold the man." Connected with this arch was a 
flight of stone stairs, leading to the judgment hall of Pilate,' 



144 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

and over which the Savior was conducted. This stair-way hag 
since been removed to Rome, and is now in the basilica of St. 
John Lateran. It is held in such sacred reverence that no 
one is permitted to ascend it, except upon his knees; it is the 
same that I ascended in this manner during a visit to that 
city. 

Near by the arch Ecce Homo, is the "Church of the Crowning 
of Thorns," where it is said the temples of the Holy Redeemer 
were pierced, by the cruelties of those who gave Him but mock 
honor. A short distance from this place we were shown the spot 
where the cross was laid upon the Savior, and a little further on 
the place where he fell down under its weight, and still a little 
further where he fell again, and where the cross was laid on 
Simon. Other places of interest are pointed out along this way 
until you reach the place of the Church of the Holy Sepulcher , 
where it is said he was crucified, and which we have already 
described. We would not have the reader understand that 
we believe all that is said about the definiteness of these 
localities, nor the scenes said to have been enacted there. On 
the contrary, we believe there is much that is false con- 
nected with these stories. Especially do they seem incredible 
when we learn that the present street is from thirty to fifty 
feet above the one which was used in the days of our Savior. 
And yet we know, that if not along this particular way, along 
some other near by, the suffering Son of God did pass. 

POOL. OF HEZEKIAH. 

A short distance south-west from the Church of the Holy 
Sepulcher, is the Pool of Hezekiah. It is two hundred and 
forty feet long, and one hundred and forty-four feet wide. Its 
water is not much used now, except for bathing purposes. 
This pool is named after Hezekiah, from the belief that it is 
the same pool to which reference is made in II. Kings, xx 
chapter, twentieth verse. It is supplied by an aqueduct 
running from the upper Pool of Gihon, Avhich is situated on 
the outside of the city walls, about one hundred and fifty rods 
west of the Joppa Gate. This aqueduct passes under the city 



AROUND 'THE WORLD. 143 

Wail near the gate. This provision for the supply of water 
was made two thousand five hundred years ago. 

POOL OF" BETHESDA. 

This is the largest pool or reservoir within the city walls, 
although it does not now contain water. Its length from east 
to west is three hundred and sixty feet-, and its width is one 
hundred and thirty feet, with a projection at the smith-west 
corner) forty-two feet wide, and extending one hundred and 
forty feet further. This makes the south side ®f the pool five 



m 

hundred feet in length-. This pool is situated on the south 
side of the street Via Dolorosa-, and north of the temple plateau. 
It occupies a deep valley or fissure in the rock— originally 
separating Moriah from Bezetha— and is about seventy feet 
below the surface where the Mosque of Omer stands. It origi- 
nally had a depth of eighty feet, but it is now more than half 
filled with debris from the city. It is supposed to have been 
supplied with water from the Pools of Solomon near Bethlehem, 
by means of an aqueduct. Tradition informs us that this is 

19 



146 



TEX YEARS 1 TRAVEL 



the Pool of Bethesda, about which multitudes of diseased 
people gathered in the time of our Savior, and where be healed 
the impotent man who had an infirmity thirty-eight years, 




POOL OP SXXjO^^XvI- 

There is, however, no very reliable evidence to corroborate 
these claims. 

POOLS OF GIHON. 

As we have before said, the upper Pool of Gihon is outside of 
the city, and about one hundred and titty rods west of the Joppa 
Gate. This pool is three hundred and sixteen feet long from 
east to west, and two hundred feet wide at the west end, and 



AROUND TEE WORLD. 147 

two hundred and eighteen feet at the east end, with an average 
depth of eighteen feet. It was constructed more than seven 
hundred years before Christ. Just below this is the lower 
Pool of Gihon. This covers almost three acres of ground and 
is forty feet in depth. The lower part of this pool is formed 
by two heavy walls across the valley, while the upper part is 
hewn out of the rock. It is too low down in the valley for 
the water to have been conveyed to Jerusalem, and some 
suppose it was used for irrigation. It is estimated to have a 
capacity of near twenty million gallons. The waJls are now 
falling down, and neither of these two pools contain much 
Water, except during the rainy season. The Bible history of 
these pools is of much interest. 

POOL OF SILOAM. 

But a little distance from Zion and Moriah, near the south- 
east corner of the wall of the city, is the interesting Pool of 
Siloam. With gentle murmur the waters softly flow from 
under Ophel. The water is recieved into a kind of reservoir, 
fifty-three feet in length, eighteen feet wide and about 
twenty feet deep. From this it passes off through an outlet 
when it has attained a depth of about three feet. At 
the upper end of this pool is a stair-way leading to 
the mouth of the subterrannean passage through which the 
water enters. It was at this pool that Jesus saw the poor blind 
man, and after anointing his eyes with clay and spittle, bid 
him go and wash. This is one of the most renowned pools 
about Jerusalem, and is still a great place of public resort, 
and many people come here to bathe, or wash their clothes.. 

To better understand how these waters are supplied, it may 
be well to visit the Fountain of the Virgin farther round the 
brow of the hill. It is a large, deep cavity in the solid rock. 
A broad stone stair-way of sixteen steps leads down to a level 
stone platform about twelve feet broad. From this, ten steps 
more reach the water. This is about twenty-five feet below 
the entrance. A basin about fifteen feet long, and some six 
feet broad, receives the water. From this fountain a subter- 
ranean passage, nearly eighteen hundred feet long, has been chiseled 
through the solid rock. One peculiarity of the waters of the 



.118 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

Fountain of the Virgin is their periodical flow, which occurs 
two or three times per day in the summer, and oftener during 
the rainy season of the year. During very dry seasons the 
flow occurs only once in two or three days. When it begins, 
the water gushes out with considerable force for perhaps half 
an hour, and then ceases and is perfectly quiet until the next 
flow. 

What is the reason of this periodical flow of the waters ? 
Much mystery seems to be connected with this strange 
phenomenon, and as yet no satisfactory solution has been 
given. Some are ready to believe that it is caused by an 
angel coming down and troubling the waters; while among 
the natives there are those who believe that somewhere in the 
subterranean passage through which the water is supplied, 
there is a mounstrous animal, and that when he lies down the 
passage is obstructed, and when he rises up the waters gush 
past and flow into the fountain. Perhaps the most logical 
and satisfactory explanation to the scientific mind, is, that 
these waters are, somewhere in the hills above, connected w r ith 
a subterranean reservoir, which in some manner empties itself 
periodically by means of a syphon passage. Some intelligent 
persons believe that this singular flow of water is in some way 
produced b}^ a connection with artificial subterranean water 
passages of the city. 

THE SEPULCHER OF DAVID. 

One of the most venerated places of Jerusalem is the reputed 
Sepulcher, or Tomb of David. It is revered by both Jews, 
Christians and Mohammedans. Its location is on the southern 
brow of Mount Zion, just outside of the modern city w r alls. 
About it is erected a pile of buildings, from which rises a 
conspicuous minaret, which is one of the first objects that 
strike the eye of the traveler as he approaches the city. And 
now you wonder, if the burial place of this great monarch and 
sweet singer of Israel, is really known. That he was buried in 
Zion we can not doubt, for this fact is attested in the word of 
God. It was also customary to have tombs hewn in the rock, 
and the royal sepulchers were certainly of the most expensive 
and lasting character. Peter seems to have understood very 



AROUND THE WORLD. 149 

definitely the location of this tomb, for in his address on the 
day of Pentecost he says, " Let me freely speak unto you of the 
patriarch David, that he is both dead and buried; and his 
sepulcher is with us unto this day." Josephus must have 
known something of the place and manner of his burial, 
for he states that Solomon buried David with great pomp, and 
placed immense treasures in his tomb. We are informed that 
one Simon Maccabeus opened one room of the sepulcher and 
took out three thousand talents ; and that it was again 
plundered by Herod the Great. It seems like rather a stretch 
of one's credulity to believe the site of this tomb has been 
preserved so long, and yet the argument is against the doubter, 
for it is clearly evident that a tomb is there, and the Moslems 
say that it is David's, and none can prove that it is not true. 
The Turks have the control of this tomb, and of all the 
sacred places about Jerusalem none is guarded with such 
care as the tomb of David. Neither Jew nor Christian is 
permitted to see it. We were allowed to enter the upper rooms 
and walk about the halls, but to the sepulcher beneath, neither 
veneration for this illustrious Bible character, nor the powerful 
backsheesh can gain admittance for any one. Dr. Barclay's 
daughter is the only Christian who has visited the tomb for a 
long period of years. Her success was achieved by reason of 
her strategy, and the connivance of a Moslem lady who was 
connected with the guard. The daughter of Mr. Barclay 
disguised herself in the costume of a Moslem lady, and was 
admitted into the sacred enclosure and hastily performed her 
visit one Friday at noon, while the guards were at the Mosque 
of Omer, at a season of special prayer by order of the Sultan. 

PLACE OF THE LAST SUPPER. 

In the building over the tomb, we were shown the upper 
room where Jesus ate the last supper with his disciples. The 
room is about fifty feet long and thirty feet wide. It is also 
claimed that this is the place where the disciples were praying 
.when the Holy Ghost was poured out upon them on the day of 
pentecost. This building is very ancient, but to believe all 
that is claimed for these places of antiquity, requires an unwar- 
ranted stretch of our crecluality. . 



150 



TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



While in Jerusalem we called on the Rev. G. Klein, win,' 
discovered the Moabite stone which is now in the Louvre 
at Paris, a cast of which has been placed in the British 
Museumi at London. The inscriptions upon this stone support 
some important Bible historv. We also visited the English 

WWSSfflk 




school in Jerusalem, under the management of Bishop Gober, 
We visited the convent of Zion, which is said to be located 
upon the ruins of Pilate's palace. Descending into under- 
ground rooms and along subterraneous passages, about forty 



AROUND THE WORLD. 151 

feet below the present street we reached a very ancient 
pavement, said to be that of the identical Via Dolorosa, along 
which Jesus was led to the place of Crucifixion. From the top 
of this house we obtained a very fine view of Jerusalem. At 
this convent we obtained some nice cards of flowers from 
Gethsemane and other portions of the Holy Land. These 
were arranged by the girls of the convent. 

We have now been wandering about Jerusalem for several 
days, viewing the places of special interest — many of which 
our 'space forbids us to speak— and we must now take our 
readers to a few of the most noted places surrounding it. AVe 
will first give a view of the modern city from the north-east. 

ANCIENT AND MODERN JERUSALEM. 

Ancient Jerusalem had a population of about six hundred 
thousand, while the modern city has but twenty thousand. 
The ancient city was divided into three distinct portions: the 
upper city on Mount Zion, where stood the palace of David; the 
lower city, or Acra on Mount Moriah, where the temple and 
the fortress of Antonio was situated; and Bezetha, or the new 
city clustering about the hill of Cavalry. These three 
divisions were separated from each other by the valleys, or 
ravines passing between them. The city is now divided into 
the Christian, the Jewish, the Armenian, and the Moham- 
medan quarters. 

Jerusalem has been the scene of the most extraordinary 
events in all the annals of this world. Both men and angels 
have been, and must continue to be, most deeply interested in 
the scenes transacted here. This was the Almighty's dwelling 
place upon earth; and here'He gave to man a visible evidence 
of his mercy and his glory. Here the sweet singer of Israel 
tuned his harp to the praise of Jehovah. Here God's chosen 
ones assembled to worship. Here the Word was made flesh 
and dwelt amongst men, and men " beheld His glory, the 
glory as of the only Begotten of the Father, full of Grace and 
Truth." Here He wept — yes, wept and poured out His soul 
unto death! that our race might be redeemed from sin and 
wrath, and saved to the joys of an endless life. In the days of 
her prosperity, Jerusalem was the perfection of beauty, the joy of 



152 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

the whole earth! But how great, how sorrowful, how Wasting 
have been the changes since that day! Now she is like a 
wasted form from which the tint of health and beauty of life 
have faded. Her glory has departed, and to-day she lies in 
dust and ashes. Her wondrous Temple, that once echoed with 
the melodies of praise, have long been razed to the ground, and 
her altars, in which Jehovah once delighted, are seen no more! 
Her streets, once pressed by the holy Son of God, are now 
defiled by the desecrations of the heathen ! The glories of 
Solomon, which astonished the illustrious Queen of Sheba< 
have faded like the beauty from the rose, or lie scattered like 
shattered wrecks! Her luxuriant valleys, her terraced and 
vine-clad hills, are now sterile and barren! Jerusalem, can 
it be said of thee, '.' Thou who wert exalted to Heaven, has 
been cast down to hell?" However great the changes which 
time and the ravages of war have made, there is still much 
about Jerusalem that is precious and dear. Mount Zion and 
Olivet, and the Kedron, and the glens through which Jesus 
walked, and the hills on which He taught and prayed, are still 
there. No changes of time, nor controversies of men can rob 
us of the hallowed memories of departed days. No touch of 
heathen hands can efface the image of a diviner life, made 
upon the heart and mind of man by the wondrous truths 
revealed by Jehovah in and around this Holy City, 



AROUND THE WORLD.. 153 



CHAPTER V. 

Garden op Gethsemane — Tomb of Absalom—Ancient Tombs 
—Mount of Olives — A Visit to Bethany — House of the 
Sisters and Tomb of Lazarus, 

jFTER a visit in the city, we went to the garden of Geth- 
| semane and the Mount of Olives, We passed out from 

-^ Jerusalem by St. Stephen's gate, and by the place where 
he suffered martyrdom, down through the valley of Jehoshaphat 
and across the brook Kedron— by the tomb of Mary — to the 
garden of Gethsemane. This is just over the Kedron at the 
foot of Mount Olivet, It is a small patch of ground, covering 
perhaps, half an acre, enclosed by a stone wall eight or ten 
feet high. It contains a number of the oldest and most vener- 
able looking olive trees about Jerusalem, 

Some of these trees are supposed to be one thousand years 
old; and some claim them to be the identical trees which grew 
here in the time of our Savior. The olive tree often perpetuates 
itself by sending up shoots from the dying parent stem, which 
in time form a new tree. It may therefore be possible that some 
of these trees sprang up from the very ones under which Jesus 
and his disciples reclined. It is, to say the least, a certain fact 
that these trees are very ancient, and they must stand not far 
away from the place where occurred the thrilling events of the 
agony and betrayal of the Savior. The monk who keeps the 
garden pointed, out to us the reputed spot where the disciples 
slept, and the place where Jesus agonized and prayed, 
and also where Judas betrayed him with a kiss. About the 
correctness of these locations we may justly have some skepti- 
cism; but that the garden of Gethsemane — the place where 
Jesus contended with the powers of darkness — is at least near 
by, we cannot justly doubt, I could but reflect, that, perhaps 

I then stood on the very spot where Jesus knelt and prayed 



154 TEN YEARS 7 TRAVEL 

while the burden of the sin of the world was upon Him. 
Perhaps the very soil beneath my feet, was watered by the 
Redeemer's tears, when the awful night-agon} 7 of His soul was 
so great that He "sweat as it were great drops of blood, falling 
down to the ground." Or could it be, that I was on the spot 
where the disciples fell asleep, while their Master wrestled 
with the powers of darkness, and unutterable sorrow was upon 
His soul? Or did I stand where Jesus stood in all the 
innocency of Heaven when cruel hands laid hold of Him 
and led Him away to die ? Whether this was true or not, I 
could but exclaim : 

"Agonizing in the garden, 

Lo ! the Savior prostrate lies — 
On the bloody cross behold Him 7 
Hear Him cry before He dies: 
' It is finished ; ' 
Sinner will not this suffice ? " 

With thoughts reaching far back into the ages past, when 
awful and tragic scenes were enacted here, and with bright 
hopes penetrating the endless future, when millions shall be 
redeemed through Christ, I went up and down the walks of the 
garden, gathering mementoes from the flower beds and olive 
trees, then turned away to view the 

TOMB OF ABSALOM, 

This tomb is just south of Gethsemane, and east of the bed 
of the Kedron. It is hewn from the native rock, and is a little 
more than twenty feet square. It stands separated from the 
rock by a passage on three sides about ten feet wide. This 
massive stone is ornamented with columns and pilasters, and 
over them an Egyptian cornice. The top is mounted with a 
kind of spire in the form of a pyramid. The entire height of 
the tomb, including the spire, is nearly fifty feet. It contains a 
chamber about eightj feet square, with niches for the reception 
of the dead. A great heap of rubbish has accumulated about 
the base, and the original door is closed by the same. 
Continual accumulations are made to this pile of rubbish, 
by stones which are thrown at it by those who pass. This is 
done by reason of the contempt in which the memory of this 



AttOUND THE WO&VD, 



i.')-* 




■-':.: vL 



OLIV3 TSEE-G^EDEIT ©^ 3-ETHSE1IAKTB; 



156 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

wicked son of David is held. The chamber within, is well nigh 
filled with stones, thrown in through the openings. This pillar 7 
or tomb, is supposed to be the same as that spoken of in II. 
Samuel, twentieth chapter and eighteenth verse: "Now 
Absalom in his lifetime had taken and reared up for himself 
a pillar, which is in the king's dale." Although long ages 
have passed away since the days of this rebellious and wicked 
son, yet Moslems, Jews, and Christians still manifest their 
contempt for his rebellious life by casting stones at his tomb, 
or spitting spitefully toward it. What a lesson of warning this 
should be to every rebellious son, for he who would be honored 
in death must honor his father and mother in life. 

ANCIENT TOMBS. 

Just south of the tomb or pillar of Absalom, are the remark- 
able tombs of St. James, of Zechariah, and of Jehoshaphat; in 
fact, the rocks and hills about Jerusalem are filled with these 
dismal chambers, where, in the ages long past, illustrious 
characters were lain away to rest. Kings, priests, prophets, 
and noblemen are here taking their last long sleep. As we 
walk among these receptacles of the dead, we may repeat : 
'"Strong vaulted cells, where honored seers of old 
Far in the rocky walls of Zion sleep." 

Many of these tombs, hewn out in the sides of the rock, are 
now empty, except as used by poor people for places of 
residence. 

The Tomb of St. James is a large excavation in the side 
of the cliff. It has a porch in front, eighteen feet wide and 
nine feet deep, from which a door opens into the sepulchral 
chamber. This is seven by fourteen feet, and from it are 
openings into smaller chambers or receptacles for bodies. 

The Tomb of Zechariah is one mass of native rock, cut 
from 'the hill-side, with a broad passage running around three 
sides of it. It is cubic in shape, with a pyramidal top. It is 
ornamented with columns and pilasters, overset with cornice. 
No entrance is found to this monument, and it is supposed 
to be of solid rock. It is said to have been built in honor of 
Zechariah. 

The Tomb of Jehoshaphat is richlv ornamented about the 



AROUND THE WORLD. 157 

doorway with sculptured foliage. For whom this tomb was 
built is not determined. Some suppose it to be the burial 
place of Simon the Just, while others think it was constructed 
for Joseph, the husband of Mary. It is claimed that in the 
year 1842, a Hebrew manuscript of the Pentateuch was found 
in this tomb. 

From the garden of Gethsemane we made our ascent of the 
Mount o± Olives — another place so sacred in the history of our 
Lord. It lies directly east of Jerusalem, with the deep valley 
of Jehoshaphat between. Olivet exceeds one mile in length, 
and its summit rises to about seven hundred feet above the 
valley, and two hundred feet higher than the temple area. 
From it the view of Jerusalem is really grand, and no one can 
feel disappointed who first views it from this height. The 
summit of this mountain is the traditional place of the ascen- 
sion of Christ — the stepping-stone to Heaven. 

MOUNT OF OLIVES. 

Our illustration presents a very fine view of the Mount of 
Olives, with the enclosed Garden of Gethsemane at its base. 
Looking at the illustration you are facing to the east. On the 
right is Gethsemane, while to the left is the Tomb of Mary. 
There are three roads, which diverge at the garden, and they also 
are shown in our illustration. The mountain slopes down 
beautifully on the west toward the valley of Jehoshaphat, and 
toward Bethany on the east. Great numbers of pilgrims visit 
the mountain to see that which is claimed to be the foot-prints 
of Jesus in the rock. As foolish as it may seem, thousands 
really believe the indentations shown here were made by the 
feet of our Lord. This hill, once so beautifully covered with 
olive orchards, is now quite desolate; only a few scattering 
olive and fig trees are to be seen, with an occasional thorn bush, 
such as that it is claimed from which the mock crown of thorns 
for our Savior was made. While on the mount, we were favored 
to see a marble tablet on which the Lord's prayer was inscribed 
in thirty-t-NO different languages. Olivet is associated with 
much that is deeply interesting to the mind of every Bible 
student. It was by way of this mountain, that David fled 
under the rebellion of his son Absalom, and from its summit 



158 



TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 




AROUND THE WORLD. 159 

he took his leave of the Holy City. It was by way of this 
mountain that Jesus made his triumphal entry into Jerusa- 
lem. It was from its summit that He beheld and wept over 
the city, and he delivered his prophecy of its downfall- 
It was from this mountain that the victorious Son of God 
was taken up by a cloud, and went back to glory. It seems 
a very fitting spot from which to have made the ascension, 
for its majestic form rises above all the mountains about 
Jerusalem, and nearly two thousand eight hundred feet above 
the level of the waters of the Mediterranean, and almost four 
thousand feet above the Dead Sea. The soil of Olivet had 
often been pressed by the holy feet of the Son of God, and 
beneath the shade of its olives and vines He had taught His 
wondering disciples. In the garden down at its base, He had 
undergone the greatest agony, and from this place He Avas 
conducted into the council chambers of darkness and death; 
and now, what could be more fitting, than that from its 
summit* He should be received into the courts of glory? 0, 
Olivet! how sacred is thy memory? What a halo of glory 
clusters about thee! Thou art the last spot on earth ever 
touched by the Redeemer's feet. 

A VISIT TO BETHANY. 

From the Mount of Olives we went to Bethany, which lies 
near the base of the mountain, and about one and a half miles 
south-east of Jerusalem. It is a very small place, containing 
perhaps less than two dozen houses, which are built of stone 
and crumbling with age. The home of Mary and Martha was 
at this place, and to this village Jesus often retired from the 
busy tumult of Jerusalem. Bethany is on the road leading 
from Jerusalem to Jericho. The name of El-Aziriyeh is given 
to the place by the Arabs, and signifies the place of Lazarus. 



*From the account of the ascension given by Luke, some have 
supposed the place of ascent was Bethany, but most authors agree ihat it 
was one ot the summits of Olivet, near Bethany, and here Constantine 
erected a Christian church. 



160 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

The association of Jesus with the home of these two sister? 
and the raising of Lazarus from the dead has immortalized 
the place, and yet 

"It seems a humble village - , few its homes, 

And few and poor its dwellers; cottage roof's, 

Except one simple turret, are they all ! 

Yet, save the neighboring city, it were hard, 

If Palestine were searched, to find a spot 

On which the Christian traveler should muse 

With fonder interest than Bethany." 

The palms which gave Bethany the ancient name of "House 
of Dates" are all gone. This is at the present time, and 
apparently always has been, a small and poor mountain 
hamlet, with nothing to charm save its seclusion, and nothing 
to interest save its associations. When Jesus retired from 
Jerusalem to Bethany, no sound of the busy world followed 
Him, no noisy tumult broke in upon His quiet, peaceful medi- 
tations. 

HOUSE OF THE SISTERS AND TOMB OF LAZARUS. 

While here, we were shown the reputed house of Mary and 
Martha, and also the tomb of Lazarus. The building said to 
mark the spot where the two sisters lived, is evidently of quite 
modern origin, but the tomb is of very ancient date. I was 
skeptical as to this house having really been their home, but 
inclined to accredit reliability to the tradition in regard to the 
tomb. This a deep, dark vault, hewn in the solid rock. We 
reached it by descending a flight of about twenty-five stone 
steps, at the bottom of which was a door opening into a subter- 
ranean chamber, where a few more great steps brought us to 
the vault. Here, tradition asserts, is where " They laid him " 
whom Jesus raised from the dead. Some writers are inclined 
to believe the burial-place was somewhere else, and nearer the 
surface of the earth, considering that more suitable to the 
narrative. But to me, the utterance of John (eleventh chapter 
and thirty-eighth verse), u It was a cave," is evidence in favor 
of this place. At least these words prove that it was not an 
ordinary tomb, but a deeper cave. The stone that Jesus 
commanded them to roll away, may have been at the outer 



AROUND THE WORLD. 161 

entrance to the narrow passage leading down to the tomb; or 
it may have been at the lower opening to the vault. I at least 
felt that it was possible I was standing in the very place where 
Jesus called Lazarus from the dead. But whether this is the 
tomb or not, we are sure that this is Bethany. This fact is 
proven by the unvarying evidences of nature— the surrounding 
mountains, the cliffs, and the secluded glens— with other 
unchanging and immovable marks. 

Bethany and Olivet (the last of which stands west from 
Bethany) will ever be memorable as places bathed by the tears 
of the Holy Son of God. While He stood beside the tomb of 
Lazarus He "wept" until those who stood by exclaimed, 
" Behold how he loved him!" It was on the top of Olivet, as 
He looked over Jerusalem, contemplating its wickedness and 
approaching doom, that He "wept over it." But the sun is 
sinking to rest and the evening shades are approaching near, 
and we must wend our way back to the city. Let us return by 
way of Olivet, and take an evening view of the surrounding 
country. Away to the east, bounding our vision, are the 
mountains of Moab, while apparently just a little distance in 
the same direction is the Dead Sea, and stretching to the north 
the valley of the Jordan. On the west are the mountains of 
Judah, and at our feet lies Bethan}^ on one side, and Jerusalem 
on the other. The surrounding country, dotted here and there 
with ever memorable towns and hamlets, with its undulating 
surface — its mountains, valleys, and meandering streams — lies 
before us like a lovely panorama. Above is the deeply 
vaulted arch of the azure sky, while in the west are silvery 
clouds with their linings of gold, behind which the orb of day 
— after kissing all nature into loveliest smiles — -is sinking down 
to rest! The beautiful valleys and sun-lit hill tops, all bathed 
with floods of glory, which seem only to belong to departed 
days, at once make the scene overwhelmingly grand and 
impressive. 



162 TEN YEARS 1 TRAVEL 



CHAPTER VI. 

Excursion Across the Country — Tomb or Rachel — 
Bethlehem — Church of the Nativity — Pools of Solo- 
mon — Hebron — Excursion to the Jordan and the Dead 
Sea — Ancient and Modern Jerichos — The Sacred 
Jordan — Pilgrims' Visits— The Dead Sea. 

HEAVING remained some days in Jerusalem, we planned a 
little excursion across the country to Bethlehem. 
%&£ which lies about five miles nearh r south of the city, 
It ranks among the holiest places of earth, and, excepting 
Jerusalem, it contains' more attractions to the Christian 
traveler, than any spot on the globe. On the afternoon of the 
fourth of May, we passed out at the Jaffa Gate, and crossed the 
vale of Hinnon, the Gehenna of the Old Testament. In the 
time of the Jews, this was consecrated to the idolatrous worship 
of the god Moloch, and human beings were sacrificed in the 
fires which were kept constantly burning. The Hill of Evil 
Counsel, with its dark record of the past, lay just to our left as 
we passed along. It is claimed that this '■s the place where 
Judas agreed to betray his Master, for thirty pieces of silver. 
Ruins are to be seen on this hill, which are said to mark the 
place of the country home of the high priest Caiaphas, where 
the terrible contract was made. About half way up the 
hill-side is supposed to be the Aceldama, or " Field of Blood," 
purchased with the thirty pieces of silver, as a burying-ground 
for strangers. The hill is cut full of rock caverns or tombs. 
It was from here that the fifty shiploads of dirt were taken to 
Pisa, to which we referred in our description or that place. 

On our way we met many Jews, and some guards who were 
armed with guns, but who looked to be as lawless as ordinary 
Bedouins. We passed wheat fields, olive groves, vineyards, fig 
trees, and gardens of vegetables, all of which seemed to impart 



AROUND THE WORLD. 163 

an appearance of enterprise and domestic comfort. This is the 
result of American ami English capital and skill. A wealthy 
Jew, who lives in London, has built a line of tenement houses 
here, which are occupied by Israelites, who have done much 
to again make fruitful these barren hills, and clothe this section 
with a luxuriant growth. 

There can be but little doubt that the road over which we 
passed on our way to Bethlehem, is the same route taken by 
the wise men who were seeking the infant Savior. About two 
miles from Jerusalem we came to a well, at which, tradition 
says, they stopped to quench their thirst. 

TOMB OF RACHEL. 

Near Bethlehem, we passed the Tomb of Rachel. Over it 



Si"e<SSf^iS~g 




TOMB OIF 1 EACHBL. 

stands a small square building, surmounted by a dome. The 
structure very much resembles the tombs of the Moslem 
saints, so numerous in Egypt and Syria. From the building 
an iron door opens into the tomb. The structure is of modern 
date, but the place is accepted as the very spot where Jacob 
buried her, as they journeyed from Bethel. The Bible 
narrative says: ''And Rachel died, and was buried in the way 
to Ephrath, which is Bethlehem, and Jacob set a pillar upon 



164 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

her grave; that is the pillar of Rachel's grave unto this day." 
Thus Moses — nearly three hundred years after the time of her 
burial — speaks of her tomb as well known. And historians 
agree that the lapse of three thousand years, with the changes 
incident thereto, has not effaced the knowledge of the burial- 
place of this woman of exalted virtues; and Christians, Jews, 
and Mohammedans, all unite in revering her memory, and in 
regarding this as her tomb. As we try to compute the long 
ages that have passed since Jacob consigned this good wife, 
for whom he gave fourteen years' service, to the silent dust, 
it seems strange that her resting place is yet remembered. 
While Leah was buried in the cave of Machpelah — to which 
place the body of Jacob was afterward borne from far off 
Egypt — Rachel sleeps here alone! Yet amidst the mould of 
ages, the din and strife of war, the rise and fall of empires — 
this good and noble woman has never been forgotten. Her 
memory has been engraven upon all the passing ages, and 
pilgrims and travelers from every land under the sun, gather 
about her burial-place with feelings of respect and reverence. 

BET H LE H EM. 

Bethlehem is situated on a hill, or rather upon two hills 
connected b}^ a ridge. Its houses are all built of white or gray 
stone, and rising upon the hill-side, tier after tier, they present 
a substantial and pleasing appearance. The white houses of 
the town, with the pretty, well cultivated and productive fields 
which surround it, make it one of the most delightful places 
to be found in Palestine. The country around the town is 
underlaid and studded with limestone rock, and yet the hills 
were beautifully terraced, and well covered with olive groves, fig 
trees, and vines, and the soil is generally in a good state of 
cultivation. The valleys were fruitful with corn, and the 
hills and pastures dotted with flocks. Ety good cultivation, 
three crops in a year have been obtained from the same piece 
of ground in this vicinity. The population of Bethlehem is 
variously estimated at from three to five thousand. Its streets 
are long, narrow, and intersected by narrower alleys. i 

CHURCH OF THE NATIVITY. 

The most interesting of all the places about Bethlehem is 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



165 







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iiSj 1 



.ml 









ISI 



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166 



TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



the Church of the Nativity. This is said to cover the spot, or 
cave, where the Son of God made his advent into the world. 
Connected with this church are three convents — the Latin, 
Greek, and Armenian. Our illustration shows the group, or 
immense pile of buildings around the nativity. 

The birth-place of Jesus was fixed by Justin Martyr, almost 
eighteen hundred years ago, and confirmed 1j3 t Eusebius at a 
later date. The place was a cave, or grotto, forming a stable, 
over which a basilica, or splendid church was erected A. D. 
330, by order of the Empress Helena, mother of Constantine. 





IMIOltf-^STSXS,™, OXC C01TVB2.TT3. 

It is now the oldest Christian church in the world. The walls 
are plain and the floors paved with stone. The ceiling is 
supported by beams of cedar from the forests of Lebanon, 
The building is about one hundred and twenty feet long, and 
one hundred and ten feet wide. It has a nave and two aisles, 
and forty-eight Corinthian columns, arranged in four rows of 
twelve columns each. These columns are two and a half feet 
in diameter and nineteen feet high, and each one is made of a 
single stone. Some suppose they were taken from the porches 
of the Temple at Jerusalem. 

The monk from the Latin Convent, where we stopped, gave 
each of us a long wax-candle lighted, and led the way to the 



AROUND THE WORLD. 167 

place of the Nativity. Descending fifteen steps, and going 
through a long passage, we entered the crypt called the Chapel 
of the Nativity. The floor and walls are lined with beautiful 
white marble. This room is nearly forty feet long from 
east to west, and is twelve ieet wide, and ten feet high. 
Thirty-two beautiful lamps are kept constantly burning, 
by which it is lighted. At one side of this crypt, there 
is an altar and underneath it a silver star in the marble 
floor. Around this star are the words: " Hie de virgine Maria 
Jesus Christus natus est." [Here Jesus Christ was born of the 
Virgin Mary.] In the floor of the church proper, just over 
the silver star in the Chapel of the Nativity, there is a marble 
star, said to be just underneath the place where the star stood 
still to indicate to the wise men the birth-place of Jesus. 

In a recess in the rock there is a block of marble hollowed out 
to represent the manger, the original wooden one being now in 
the basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore, at Rome. 

Around the crypt of the nativity are numerous chapels 
dedicated in memory to the principal events which have 
transpired at Bethlehem. Among them is the Chapel of the 
Innocents, where, it is said, the children whom Herod slew are 
buried. 

As we turned to leave this place I could but reflect that 
here the world's Redeemer was born. Here He who was with 
the Father in the beginning, and by whom all things were 
made, condescended to the state of a little child. Here was 
revealed the mysterious, incomprehensible, and inseparable 
blending of divinity and humanity — for He took not upon 
himself the nature of angels, but the seed of Abraham. To 
this place were the wise men led by the wondrous star, with 
their gold, and myrrh, and frankincense, to worship the infant 
Savior. For these reasons this has been a place of pilgrimage 
for many centuries; but how changed since Jesus was laid in 
the manger! Then it was only a simple cavern in the rock, 
used as a stable, and such as can be seen about Bethlehem and 
other places in Palestine, in which cattle and flocks are 
sheltered and fed. 

As I drew a picture of the scene when Jesus was born and 
laid in the manger — because there was "no room in the inn" 



168 



TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



— how forcibly the words came to my heart, " For our sake He 
became poor, that we through His poverty might be rich!" 

Bethlehem was the childhood home of David, where, a 
thousand years before the time of Christ, he watched over his 
father's flocks. (By the experience of his life, while but a 
shepherd boy, his writings have been enriched by gems of 
thought from real life.) It was to this place that Samuel came 




SHEPHE2DS -A.3iTjD THE! AU3-ELS. 

to anoint him king in place of Saul. Down among the hills 
to the east of the town, where David perhaps used to keep his 
father's flocks, tradition informs us is the place where the 
shepherds were watching their flocks by night, when the angel 
announced the advent of the Messiah.. A grassy plain dotted 
over with olive trees and called the "Shepherds' Field," 



AROUND THE WORLD. 169 

is pointed out as the spot where the angelic host sang the 
anthem of praise at the time of the birth of Christ. 

POOLS OF SOLOMON. 

We visited the celebrated Pools of Solomon, situated about 
two miles south-west of Bethlehem. They are in a deep 
valley, and mostly formed by excavations in the limestone 
rock. Thev are three in number and arranged one above 
another up the ascending valley, so that from the bottom of 
one the water will flow over the top of the next one below, 
and can thus be emptied into it. The upper one is about 
three hundred and eighty-one feet long, two hundred and 
twenty feet wide and twenty-five feet deep. The middle one 





I 

Ms 






tus pooijS o:f 3001,02^01^-. 

is still larger, and the lower. one is five hundred and eighty-five 
feet long, near one hundred and seventy feet wide, and about 
fifty feet deep. By reference to our illustration a good view of 
these pools may be obtained. To the left, or at the north-west 
corner, is a large square structure, somewhat resembling a 
castle, and is used as a khan, or barracks for soldiers. 

The supply of water is from a wonderful subterranean spring, 
called the " Sealed Fountain.' This is to be seen by entering 
a small aperture a few rods above the pools. An aqueduct, 
arranged along the hill-sides, so as to keep it on a water-level, 



170 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

carries the water from these pools to Jerusalem. Although all 
this work is supposed to have been constructed in Solomon's 
time, and for near three thousand years has stood the decay of 
time, yet the work is in a good state of preservation. It is 
believed that these are the pools referred to in the writings of 
Solomon, and that here were once his beautiful gardens, trees 
and orchards. 

Many other places of deep interest are to be seen round 
about Bethlehem, and it is exceedingly delightful to linger in 
these valleys and ramble over the hills, made so interesting 
by scenes of the ages so long ago past. Not far down the 
valley toward the Dead Sea is where the prophet Amos once 
lived. Some distance south-west is a cave regarded as the 
place where David and his men hid from Saul. However, it 
is now believed by many that this cave is north-west of 
Hebron in the valley of Elah. 

HEBRON. 

The town of Hebron lies about fifteen miles a little west of 
south from Bethlehem. It is very ancient, and some places 
about it are held in more superstitious reverence than any 
other in Palestine. Here is the Cave of Machpelah. where 
Abraham and Sarah, and Isaac and Rebekah, and Jacob and 
Leah were buried, and no Christian or Jew is permitted access 
to it. The population of the city is mostly made up of Moslems 
which number several thousand. A few hundred Jews dwell 
here, but no Christian attempts to do so. It was to this 
place near four thousand years ago. when Lot pitched his tent 
toward Sodom, that Abraham removed his tent, and came 
and dwelt in the plain of Mamre, which is in Hebron. Nearly 
fifty years afterward he purchased the Cave of Machpelah 
from Ephron, the Hittite. Over this cave is where stands the 
Great Mosque. It is about two hundred feet long, and one 
hundred and fifty feet wide, and fifty-eight feet high. Some 
of the stones in it are very large, measuring thirty-eight feet 
in length, and three feet in thickness. It is evidently of 
ancient date, and many believe it to have been erected in 
Solomon's time. 

Hebron, in the days of Abraham, was called Kirjath Arba, 



AROUND THE WORLD. 171 

named from Arbee, the father of Anah. It was taken by the 
Israelites under the leadership of Joshua, and became one of 
the cities of refuge. It was the home of David for some years 
after his accession to the throne of Judah, and where he 
reigned until his removal to Jerusalem. How the thoughts 
wander far back into the early history of God's chosen people 
— into the days when Abraham, Isaac and Jacob walked over 
these hills. Just down on the plains of Mamre, not far away 
from the city, stands Abraham's Oak, an aged and venerable 
looking tree marking the spot where Abraham pitched his tent 
Here, it is said, is where the angel appeared unto him and 
announced the awful destruction of Sodom and Gomorrah 
Near by, a mountain-top is pointed out where the patriarch 
stood and witnessed the ascending smoke from the burning 
Sodom. We can not linger here, but must hasten back to 
Jerusalem, for this is our headquarters, and from it our 
journeys to surrounding places of interest are made. The 
journey over the country is very delightful, and we often turn 
■aside to view some sacred spot, or stop now and then for a rest, 
or to gather bright flowers, which dot the hill-sides. 

EXCURSION TO THE JORDAN AND THE DEAD SEA. 

This excursion occupies about three days. Although it is 
one of great interest it is attended with no little danger. 
Hostile tribes and bands of robbers inhabit this region of 
country, as they did in the days of our Savior, when the man 
going down from Jerusalem to Jericho, fell among thieves. 
Just before our visit to Jerusalem, a party who went down to 
the Dead Sea, while sleeping in their tent, had their valuables 
ail stolen by a band of Arabs. In addition to the ordinary 
guides, armed guards are usually employed to protect the 
traveler while on this journey. Our route to the Dead Sea 
will be by way of the renowned, and ancient Jericho. Before 
Teaching this place we pass through some very wild and 
broken country. Clambering among ragged hills separated by 
deep denies or narrow glens, over rocky and precipitous heights, 
then plunging down into the deep and often wild-looking 
valley below, puts one on the lookout, lest he share a like 
with the poor victim in the narrative of the Savior. 



172 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

When, and where, the traveler may fall into the hands of the 
lurking Bedouin, he does not know. Near the Jordan the 
scene becomes still more wild. The mountains rise higher 
and their sides are more precipitons. The defiles are deeper, 
and the lime-stone cliffs rise up almost perpendicularly to an 
astonishing height. 

On the way we cross the brook Cherith, the stream beside 
which Elijah was fed by ravens. A more secure hiding place 
could scarcely be found, than the spot marked ont by tradition 
as the place where the prophet was thus sustained during the 
time that death was in the land. Not far from this place, 
where the ravine opens upon the valley, the place is pointed 
out where it is said that Achan was stoned to death. 
Tradition also informs us that the mountain Quarantania, 
which stands near by, is the place where the Savior fasted 
forty days. At the base of this mountain is the fountain 
whose waters became the subject of Elisha's miracle. 

ANCIENT AND MODERN JERICHO. 

The ancient city of Jericho, located four or five miles west 
of the Jordan, was one of the oldest cities in the Holy Land, 
and next in size to Jerusalem. It was besieged, overthrown, 
and destroyed by the Israelites immediately after their crossing 
of the Jordan. The incidents connected with this history are 
no doubt familiar to every Bible reader. More than five 
hundred years after its destruction, Hiel, a Bethelite, com- 
menced to rebuild it, and upon his household the curse was 
visited that had been pronounced against the one who should 
attempt its restoration. Death came upon the oldest son in 
the laying of the foundation and upon the youngest in the 
setting up of the gates thereof. But the place, in time, again 
became a flourishing city, and the school of the prophets. It 
was here that Elisha lived, and along a wild mountain path 
which led from Bethel to this place the forty-two children were 
destroyed who assailed the prophet in mock derision, as he 
was returning from witnessing the translation of Elijah. 

Jericho has more than once been laid waste, and rebuilt. 
In the days of our Savior it was a beautiful city. It was here 
that he performed the miracle of healing upon the blind man, 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



173 




174 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

and here was the home of Zaccheus where Jesus dined. This 
magnificent city has long since been utterly destroyed, and 
only a poor miserable Arab village now marks the place. 
Some think that this village is a considerable distance east 
of and nearer the Jordan than the former town. Whether 
this be true or not, this is the only representative left 
of the former Jericho. This Arab town is called Eiha 
and contains but about fifty poorly built stone houses. The 
inhabitants are a poor, dirty profligate looking class of people. 

THE SACRED JORDAN. 

No traveler to this part of Palestine can afford to miss a 
visit to the Jordan ; and so we will turn our footsteps toward 
that sacred stream. Almost east of Riha, is the Bethabara 
ford, and thither we will mark our way. This crossing is about 
six miles above where the Jordan empties into the Dead Sea. 
It is supposed to be the place where John baptised, and where 
the Holy Spirit descended upon Christ in the form of a dove. 
Some writers have argued in favor of a place much farther 
up the Jordan, but the close proximity of this to the 
"Wilderness of Judea," and Jerusalem, from where the people 
went out to be baptised of John, and the nearness of the 
mountain Quarantania, where Jesus was led up of the Spirit 
to be tempted of the Devil, are certainly strong arguments in 
favor of this place. Here Joshua led the mighty hosts of 
Israel into the promised land after their forty years wandering 
in the wilderness. What sacredness has been given to this 
crossing of the most renowned river upon the globe. Here 
God pilea up the descending waters of this deep — this swiit 
flowing stream, until two and one-half millions of his wandering 
children passed over. How these remarkable events linger in 
the annals of the history of many nations, and deeply impress 
the mind of each succeeding generation with a feeling of sacred 
reverence for this stream. Here thousands of pilgrims come 
every year to bathe in the waters. Easter Monday is the time 
fixed upon by Latin and Greek pilgrims of the Holy Land, 
to visit the Jordan. They form in procession at Jerusalem, 
and in their style of solemn order, march down to this place, 
bathe in the river, fill their bottles from its sacred waters, cut 



AROUND THE WORLD. 175 

a staff from the growth upon its banks, and then take up their 
journey back to the Holy City. 

PILGRIMS' VISITS. 

The Catholic Easter does not occur at the same time as that 
of the Greeks; and fortunately so, for there is much disunity 
between them, and the Greek pilgrims alone, who come here 
each year are said to number as many as five thousand. The 
rush for the waters is some times so great that some of their 
number are trampled under foot, and crushed to death. 

The Jordan winds its way through a deep valley or fertile 
plain, much of which lies below the level of the Mediterra- 
nean Sea. Even as far up as the Sea of Galilee, the river is 
about six hundred and fifty feet below the Mediterranean 
level, and at its entrance to the Dead Sea, it is over thirteen 
hundred feet below this level. But few, if any other streams 
of this magnitude in the known world, have as great a fall as 
the Jordan. The course of the river is very circuitous, and 
winding, running near two hundred miles from the Sea of 
Galilee to the Dead Sea, a distance of only about sixty miles. 
The great fall of the river makes the current very strong and 
rapid, and exceedingly dangerous to enter when its waters are 
up. The river banks in many places are covered with a dense 
growth of trees, reeds, willows and various kinds of bushes. 
The mountains along the western valley of the Jordan rise up 
abruptly to the height of near two thousand feet, and on the 
east of the Jordan, receding from the valley, they rise higher 
and higher, until Nebo and Abarim tower up almost twenty- 
five hundred feet. Down between these mountain ranges, in 
the plains below, the Jordan conies sweeping on, plunging 
over fearful rapids, dashing along its winding and narrow 
course until its waters are lost in the mysterious sea of death. 

THE DEAD SEA. 

The Dead Sea lies in a deep depression more than twenty- 
five hundred feet below the city of Jerusalem. Its surface is 
thirteen hundred and twelve feet below the Mediterranean and 
is the lowest of any body of water known. The descent from 
Jerusalem is very rapid, and the road exceedingly rough, 
making the journey very fatiguing. The temperature at the 



176 TEN YEARS' 1 RAVEL 

sea is several degrees higher than at Jerusalem, owing to the 
deep basin in which it is situated, and the mountains which 
surround it. As we approach the vicinity of the water, the 
ground becomes sterile and barren. How very different from 
the time when Lot pitched his tent in the rich verdurous 
plain now covered by these dark waters. 

The Dead Sea is the most mysterious body of water known 
in the world. Its length is variously estimated from forty to 
sixty miles, and its width from nine to twelve miles. Various 
soundings show its greatest depth to be a little more than 
thirteen hundred feet, and its mean depth but little less than 



fit 



one thousand. Its waters are clear and limpid, but bitter and 
exceedingly salt, containing eight times more saline matter 
than the water of the ocean. Its specific gravity exceeds that 
of all other waters known, being so great that it bears the 
human body fully one-fourth abovr the surface. 

The Dead Sea has no known outlet, and yet it is estimated 
that the Jordan and other streams pour into it about six 
million gallons of water daily without producing any material 
variation in its depth. What becomes of such immense 
volumes of water, is a question difficult to solve. The only 
satisfactory solution of this strange fact, seems to be that the 
waters are exhausted by evaporation, and yet if this be true, 
considering the small surface, it seems a marvel of nature. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 177 

Its surface being below that of all other bodies of water, it 
Is evidently impossible for it to have any subterranean outlet. 
To say the least of it, as one author expresses, it is " natural 
phenomenon without an equal upon the face of the globe." 
It is now generally agreed that this sea occupies the former 
site of the cities of Sodom and Gomorah, the destruction o$ 
which is so universally known that we need not repeat it here- 
Many strange things have been said about this sea and its 
deadly exhalations, some of which are quite erroneous. Among 
them is the oft repeated statement, that neither animal nor 
vegetable life can exist upon the lake or about the shores, and 
that the person attempting to navigate its waters almost 
instantly dies from the effects of pestilential fumes, or that 
birds flying over its waters suddenly expire. So far from the 
truth are these statements, that ducks and other fowls are 
often seen swimming upon the waters, or flying about the 
lake, and a party of ten men— sent out by the United States 
goverment to explore the sea — spent twenty-one days and nights 
upon and around the lake. Where fresh water streams enter 
it, bushes, shrubs, and various kinds of plants and animals 
may be found, and yet in every other place it is a desolate and 
dreary looking waste. The lake is inclosed, with the exception 
of the north-west, by ranges of barren and broken hills, rising 
from one to two thousand feet above the surface of the sea. 
This caldron-like basin sometimes becomes fearfully heated, 
as the burning rays of a cloudless sun pour down, and the 
scorching sirocco sweeps into it. The burning sands become 
too hot to stand upon, and metals sufficiently heated to blister 
the hands. The Bible record warrants us in believing that the 
place where these mysterious waters lie, was once a beautiful 
and fertile plain, and that here Lot chose his inheritance, 
pitched his tent and found rich pasturage for his flocks. 
With the haggard and bleak mountains surrounding the lake, 
the now sterile and barren aspect of its shores, no sign of 
human habitation, no merry songs or chirp of birds, no foot- 
fall of man or beast, but with a death-like silence reigning all 
about, one can not but be impressed, nith the terrible 
judgments that have overtaken this place on account of the 
wickedness of the people. 

23 



178 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



CHAPTER VII. 

# 

A Hokse-back Ride to Damascus — Tombs of Peophets and 
Kings — Last View of Jerusalem — Bethel — On the 
Border Land — Ruins of Shiloh — Valley of Shechem — 
Joseph's Tomb — Nablus- — Missionaries— Samaria — Mount 
Tabor — Nazareth- — Syrian Water Carriers — Mission 
School. 

i^FTER spending ten days in and around Jerusalem, we 
started on horse-back to Damascus, a distance of one 
^p^ hundred and fifty miles. Our route was a very inter- 
esting one, taking us by many places of Bible note, of a number 
of which we will speak, in their respective places, as we 
describe the journey. Our ride on horse-back — which is the 
only mode of travel over this route — occupied ten days. It 
seemed a long and tedious one, but afforded fine opportunities 
for viewing the country. 

TOMBS OF PROPHETS AND KINGS. 

Just a little distance from the city walls we passed the 
remarkable Tombs of the Kings. These are vast chambers 
connected by narrow passages, all hewn in the solid rock. 
In these chambers are niches in which to deposit the bodies of 
the dead. An open court, more than eighty feet square, is 
made in front of the tombs, and excavated in the rock to a 
depth of about six feet. A portico, some forty feet long, cover 
the entrance to the ante-chamber, which is about twenty feet 
square, and sufficiently high to make ample room for persons 
to walk erect. The passages connecting the chambers are 
narrow, only about two and one-half feet wide. There are four 
chambers filled with crypts or niches for the bodies. These 
niches are holes cut into the rock, and are only large enough 



AROUND THE WORLD. 179 

to admit the body endways, The Tombs of the Kings furnish 
burial places for some sixty bodies. 

About a mile from the Tombs of the Kings, are the Tombs 
of the Judges. They are in the midst of a very rocky region. 
The entrance to these tombs is very beautifully ornamented 
with flowers and vines wrought in the rock. We first 
enter a vestibule, in which there are carved ornaments. 
The first chamber is some twenty feet square, then follow others 
which are smaller. Some ol the openings to these chambers 
are so small that it is difficult to pass through them. The 
vaults are now empty. 

For whom these receptacles for the dead were constructed is 
not certainly known. Evidently they were intended for tho*se 
**-zt ■• -'•-• . •■" ' ■ '- ,■ r ! :af> 







Open.. SEPULCHEE. Closed. 

of royal wealth. It must have required years of labor to make 
such excavations in the rock. The wealthy no doubt were 
buried here, and perhaps treasures — as was the custom among 
the ancients — were buried with them, and this may have led 
to the breaking open and robbing the sepulchers ages ago. In 
most of these rocky tombs, the entrance was closed by a stone 
door. This was either square and moved on hinges, or round 
in the shape of a wheel, as shown in our engraving. This 
shows one entrance open and the other sealed. The entrance 
to these tombs is generally a low door, which explains the 
expression relative to Peter and Mary stooping down and 
looking into the tomb of the Savior. 

LAST VIEW OF JERUSALEM. 

After passing the tombs of which we have spoken, we 
ascended the mountain-ridge of the Scopus. We were now 



180 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

going to the north country, and from this ridge we must take 

our leave of the Holy City. The view from this point is 

very grand; almost equal to that from Mount Olivet. The 

English poet, Dean Milman, has described its beauty 

and majesty in a poem, which opens at even-tide, while Titus 

and his generals were viewing it from the Mount of Olives, 

and discoursing upon the stubborn courage of the Jews in 

tl'efense of their beloved city. Its grandeur, as seen in the 

glow of sunset, is thus described. 

" How boldly doth it front us! how majestically I 
Like a luxuriant vineyard, the hill side 
Is hung with marble fabrics, line o'er line, 
« Terrace o'er terrace, nearer still, and nearer 

To the blue heavens. Here bright and sumptuous palaces 

With cool and verdant gardens interspersed. 

Here lowers of war that frown in massive stiength; 

While overall hangs the rich purple eve, 

As conscious of its being her last farewell 

Of light and glory to that fated city. 

And, as our clouds of battle dust and smoke 

Are melted into air, behold the Temple, 

In undisturbed and lone serenity 

Finding itself a solemn sanctuary 

In the profound of heaven ! It stands before us 

A mount of snow fretted with golden pinnacles I 

The very sun, as though he worshipped there, 

Lingers upon the gilded cedar roofs. 

And down the long and branching porticos 

On every flowery sculptured capitol 

Glitters the homage of his parting beams. 

As we stood and cast one long lingering look at its 
temples and spires, its dwellings and its walls, surrounded 
by valleys and hills with their many sacred associations, 
and reflected that this was our last view of tins remarkable 
city of God, I stood absorbed in deepest meditation. 
The history of the ages past — when kings, and prophets, and 
apostles, and the Son of God, walked the streets of the wonder- 
ful city of which I must now take my leave — came crowding 
into my mind. Sacred visions seemed to follow each other in 
quick succession, until the whole scene before me partook of 
the inspiration and glory of departed days ! I was carried 
back to the time when the holy Shekinah dwelt upon Moriah's 
summit, and the Temple adorned in matchless splendor, was the 
glory of Israel, and the wonder of the world. Then the days 
of the incarnate Son of God, were before me, and His solemn 



AROUND THE WORLD. 181 

annunciation of the ruin of the Temple and the desolations of 
Jerusalem sent a thrill of sadness to my heart. The approach- 
ing tramp of invading armies, broke the delightful reverie 
the beautiful vision vanished, and behold, the city had fallen! 
Her former glory was gone ; and yet I could not but exclaim, O, 
Jerusalem, how oft have I longed to walk within thy streets, 
and stand upon the sacred hills that surround thee! All this 
I have enjoyed, but now I must say farewell ! Slowly we rode 
down the northern slope of the Scopus, until the dcmes and 
minarets of the city were obscured by the mountain's summit, 
and thus we took our final leave of the Holy City. 

Along the route which we passed, the country mostly presents 
a barren and desolate appearance. Lofty hills stood about us 
with deep valleys stretching out between, and here and there 
was to be seen decaying ruins, marks oi better days. 

b;e t h e l . 

About twelve miles north of Jerusalem we came to the site 
of the ancient Bethel. This is a spot of sacred renown. Here 
Abraham built an altar upon his first visit to the Land of 
Canaan. From this place Lot viewed the fertile valley of the 
Jordan and selected it for his pasture. Here the Lord made 
to Abraham the memorable promise to give to him and his 
seed forever, the land which lay northward, southward, east- 
ward and westward. Here Jacob, traveling northward — a 
fugitive from his father's house — set up a stone for his pillow, 
and with the earth for his bed, and the sky for his covering, a 
dream-vision appeared unto him. A ladder was set up before 
him with one end upon the earth and the other in heaven, and 
upon this the angels of God were seen ascending and descending! 
when Jacob awoke from his slumbers he exclaimed "Surely 
this is none other than the house of God and gate to heaven !" 
Then he took the pillow of stone and set it up for a memorial, 
and called the place Bethel, which means house of God. In 
subsequent years he returned to this land, and with his 
household dwelt in this place. Here in after years, Jeroboam 
established idolatrous worship, made a golden calf and built a 
magnificent temple, with its tower so high that the idolatrous 



182 



TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



at the gate of this city he fell from his seat, and his neck was 
broken, when he heard of Israel's defeat. The armies of Israel 
had been smitten by the Philistines, after which they took the 
Ark of G-od from its resting place in the Tabernacle, and 
placed it at the head of their army and went forth hoping to 




defeat their enemies, but they had sinned and God was not 
with them, and they were again overcome and thirty thousand 
of their men perished, and the ark was carried away in triumph 
by their enemies. It was never again returned to Shiloh, 
and Israel ceased to gather there, and the town went to decay, 



AROUND THE WORLD. 183 

priests could look down upon the temple of Solomon, on 
Moriah. Time passed on and the doom foretold by Amos, 
" Bethel shall come to naught," was fulfilled, and more than three 
acres of ground are now covered by its ruins. Broken walls? 
and mouldering fragments of buildings lie scattered on every 
hand. These wasting ruins are an evidence that the Lord 
inspired Amos with the spirit of true prophecy. 

ON THE BORDER LAND. 

During the night we stopped at Ramalleh, a mission station 
just beyond Bethel. We were now on the border of the land 
which "flows with milk and honey" and here we enjoyed a 
rich repast of the honey, and of figs and olives, and had a quiet 
rest for the night. The next day we continued our journey 
into the land of Samaria. Our way led us among picturesque 
and romantic scenery. Clambering up among the hills, over 
rough and jagged rocks, then plunging down into deep ravines 
or dark glens, then winding along the narrow hill-path, or 
rugged mountain brow, amidst springing fountains or rushing 
streams, we at last came upon the " Robbers' Fountain." The 
wildness of this place has but few parallels in Palestine. The 
great hills of lime stone and flint rock, piled up, one ridge after 
another, with deep gorges dropping down between, and shaded 
by the tops of lofty hills, seem to make it a fit place for banditti 
and favors the suggestive name " Robbers' Fountain," given to 
the little spring gushing from the mountain sides. From its 
waters, falling from the rocky ledge, we quenched our thirst, 
and then made our way onward to the 

RUINS OF SHILOH. 

This place— once the center of Israels' worship — is now an 
utter desolation. It is located about twenty-five miles north 
of Jerusalem, and ten miles south of Shechem. It is upon a 
hill-top, surrounded on three sides by a broad valley. Here 
the Tabernacle and the Ark — constructed at Sinai — remained 
for more than three hundred years ; and here Israel held their 
great festivals during the long rule of the Judges. It was 
here that the little child, Samuel, was dedicated to the Lord 
by his mother. This was the home of the high priest Eli, and 



184 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

and for a time its site was lost. Only a few savage Arabs are 
to be seen about these ruins, and the wild growth has sprung 
np where the hosts of Israel once marshaled in their glory. 

VALLEY OF SHECHEM. 

In this lovely valley between the mountains Gerizim and 
Ebal, is the town of Nablus, the Sychar, or Shechem of the Bible, 
and the Neapolis of the Romans. Before coming to Nablus we 
pass Jacob's well, where Christ discoursed to his disciples and 
where he was met by the woman of Samaria, who became the 
herald of his wonderful words. There is a low curb around 
the well, and when measured a few years ago by the British 
explorers, it was found to be about eighty feet deep. It still 
contains water, although some evil disposed persons have 
attempted to choke it up with rubbish. It remains as an 
ancient landmark around which many historic associations 
cluster. The well is excavated in the solid limestone rock, 
and is about eight feet in diameter. It must have been made 
at much expense of time and labor, for its sides are cut smooth 
and regular. It was originally about one hundred and five 
feet in depth. 

JOSEPH'S TOMB. 

Near the well is Joseph's Tomb, where it is said that the 
embalmed body of the patriarch was buried by his descendants 
when they came up from Egypt. The British Consul at 
Damascus, believing that he had satisfactory evidence that 
Joseph was buried here, had a new tomb erected on the spot at 
his own expense. A strong stone wall, about twenty-five feet 
square, and ten feet high, enclosed the tomb. Adjoining this 
enclosure is a stone building with adome, in quite a dilapidated 
condition. The tomb itself is about seven feet long and three 
feet high. It is supposed that beneath this lie the bones of 
this man of strange history. Sold into bondage by his own 
kinsmen when but a boy, and carried away into Egypt. With 
his trials, his virtue, his blessings, and the great honor that 
attended him there, our rea lers are doubtless well acquainted. 
As he lay upon his dying bed he took an oath of his kindred, 
that they would carry his bones up out of Egypt, Many years 
pissed and th3y were borne away from that land and buried 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



133 



at Shechem. And now here lie the remains of the dutiful 
son — the wronged but forgiving brother — the wise and godly 
ruler. For forty years his bones were carried about through 
the wilderness, and at last deposited here in the parcel of 
ground which Jacob bought of the sons of Hamor for an 
hundred pieces of silver. And now, Christian, Samaritan, 
■Jew and Moslem alike come to revere his memory. 

Nablus is situated on the 
main road between the in 
terior and the coast, and it 
has about eight thousand in 
habitants; Moslems, Greeks, 
Jews, and Samaritans. Of 
the latter there are about 
"two hundred; they believe 
only in the Pentateuch. 
•or first five books -of the 
Bible. They have a copy 
of their law (which they 
permitted us to see) that was 
written, as they claim, by 
Abishua, the grandson of 
Aaron, at the door of the 
tabernacle, in the thirteenth 
year after the settlement of 
the children of Israel in the 
Holy Land. They keep this 
ancient relic in their syna- 
gogue at Nablus, and show 
it only to those who offer 
a liberal backsheesh. It is 
wrapped in a cover of red 
satin, embroidered with gold 
and enclosed in a silver cyl- 
inder, which is covered with 
embossed work said to be a 
plan of the temple and its 
furniture. 




AITCIEUT SCEOLL. 



The writing is on a material resembling parchment. 

24 



186 



TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



Samaritan priest, by the name of Amram, declares himself t< 
be able to trace his lineage in an unbroken chain from Aarom 
She high priest. His son Isaac wrote his name in my book, as 
also those of the nearest predecessors. The Samaritans 
annually celebrate the feast of the passover on Mount Gerizim.. 
in accordance with the Mosaic ritual. 



MISSIONARIES. 



At Nablus we were at the house of Hugh El Kary, a native- 
missionary, who had studied at Oxford in England, and who 













-vVOESHIP OH ^XOTTa^T'Z? G-SEIZIM. 

also has an English wife. He gave us some very interesting 
accounts of missionary work in Palestine. He said that he 
went every year down beyond the Jordan into the land of 
Moab, and visited the roving tribes dwelling in that region. 
He had to dress in sack cloth as they did; for they considered 
it their right, on finding a man with a better coat than they 



AROUND THE WORLD. 1*7 

wore, to take it from him. Many of them had become his firm 
friends, and always greeted him warmly; and he lost no oppor- 
tunity of speaking a word for the cause of the Master, since it 
is the missionary's duty to "sow beside all waters." 

We ascended the mountain and from its summit obtained a 
superb view of Palestine. 

Samaria. 

On leaving Nablus, we crossed Mount Bbal, and in a few 
hours came to Samaria, the ancient capital of the kings of 
Israel. It is situated on the top of a hill which rises three 
hundred feet above the level of a grassy plain. At the top of 





IE£:e; ISO ID'S C01^03iTiT-A.X5E: AJi: S^.'&Z^.ttX^.. 

this hill are the remains of the magnificent palace built by 
Herod in honor of his imperial patron, Augustus Csesar. A 
double row of Corinthian columns may be traced along the 
brow of the hill, of which about seventy are yet standing. 

Near the gate of the ancient city is the pool of Samaria, 
now overgrown with grass. This was the place of the tragic 
death of Naboth, and also of Ahab. 

In the church of St. John — now a handsome ruin — is a 
tomb hewn in the solid rock, in which, according to tradition, 
the body of John the Baptist was laid, while his head was 



188 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

placed in the great mosque at Damascus, where it is said to 
remain in a silver casket in one of the crypts. 

Leaving Samaria, our route led us among a series of pictur- 
esque hills and glens-, which, with a little cultivation, might 
be changed into a succession of gardens. We passed 
through Tirzah, a place of residence of the kings of Israel,, 
mentioned in the songs of Solomon; through Thebez, where 
Abimilech was slain; and through Dothan, at which place 
Joseph was sold by his brethren. Dothan still abounds in pits ; 
like the one into which Joseph was cast, ' They are made for 
the purpose of storing grain, or for containing water, often 
being shaped like an inverted funnel. Dothan lies just off the 
main road where the Bedouins, like the Ishmaelites of old, still 
travel on their way southward. 

The town of Jenin, or Engannin, called by Solomon the 
" Fountain of Gardens, " is situated on the borders of the great 
plain of Esdraelon. A magnificent fountain, rising in the 
hills beyond the town, irrigates the rich soil and turns it into 
a luxuriant garden. Jenin is picturesque in mosques, with 
their domes and minarets; in palms, and in oranges and vines. 
The valley of Jezreel, or the plain of Esdraelon, forms an 
irregular triangle, extending from the Mediterranean to the 
valley of the Jordan, being bounded on the north by the hills 
of Galilee, and on the south by those of Samaria. 

It is memorable in the military history of the Jews as the 
scene of some of their greatest victories — and also of some of 
their most disastrous defeats. Near the center of the plain a 
cluster of mud hovels marks the ancient site of Jezreel, where 
stood the ivory palace of Ahab, the temple of Astarte — in which 
worshipped the four hundred priests of Baal — and also the 
house of Jezebel, from the window of which she was cast down 
by order of Jehu. 

MOUNT TABOR. 

Mount Tabor rises like a cone out of the plain. The 
western side of the valley was the scene of the victory of the 
Israelites under Deborah and Barak over the Gentile hosts of 
Sisera, with their nine hundred chariots of iron. Afterwards 
vast hordes of Bedouins (Midianites), who came up with the 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



189 




190 TEN YEARS 1 TRAVEL 

multitude of their camels and flocks, were so completely 
routed by the three hundred veterans under Gideon that the}* 
never again attempted an invasion of the Holy Land in the 
time of the Jews. The valley which had been the scene of 
these great victories, was next to witness a mournful defeat — 
that of Saul and his three sous, who were slain on the 
mountains of Gilboa by the Philistines. 

Farther to the north are the towns of Endor, Shunem, and 
Nain, with their historic associations. 

We crossed the plain early in the morning. It was covered 
with a luxuriant growth of grass, intermingled with wild 
flowers, which we could gather as we rode along. To the north, 
up among the hills of Galilee, is Nazareth, a bright, clean 
looking town, with gardens and vineyards and hedges of 
prickly pear. Of the thirty-three years of the earthly life of 
Jesus, twenty-eight were spent in this secluded valley- 
Nazareth is full of traditional holy places. 

NAZARETH. 

At Nazareth we stopped at the Latin convent, where we were 
hospitably received, and invited to remain over the Sabbath. 
On Saturday afternoon the Romish archbishop came from 
Jerusalem. He was attended by an escort of cavalry, who 
approached with the roll of drums and the firing of musketry. 
The Arabs, mounted on splendid chargers, advanced to meet 
the cavalcade, displaying, meanwhile, their brilliant feats of 
horsemanship in warfare, called the Djerid, which consists in 
whirling and darting their long lances, giving their horses a 
sudden check when at full speed, throwing their steeds upon 
their haunches, dropping off from the horses and springing as 
suddenly upon them again, etc., etc. 

The Fountain — the only source for water — is called the 
"Fountain of Mary," from the tradition that Mary went there 
day by day to fill her pitcher, as we now see the village 
maidens do. 

The Greeks have their church of the Annunciation by this 
fountain. In the Latin church of the Annunciation our 
guide pointed out Mary's kitchen and bed-room, and told us 
that the remainder of the house was carried away by the angels 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



191 




; ; >s 




&~z-^x^2<t -v^o^rsixr ■w^t^::es ciliaKiBEs. 

to Loretto, in Italy. Another church, we were told, is on the 
site of Joseph's carpenter shop; while still another is said to 
be where the synagogue stood in which Jesus preached the 



192 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

sermon that provoked the Jews to seize him and undertake to 
throw him down the declivity. In another church is a large 
flat stone, at which, we were told, Jesus and his disciples dined 
both before and after the resurrection. 

A salute was fired on reaching the church of the Annuncia- 
tion, in which services were held with great pomp. 

MISSION SCHOOL, 

We visited the American Mission School for girls on Sabbath 
afternoon. The lady principal assembled her classes, and 
among other exercises, they sang for us, first in English, and 
then in Arabic. Among the pieces selected was that 
impressive and affecting hymn with the chorus, "Jesus of 
Nazareth passeth by." How touching, how striking, how 
sweet! A group of Christian Syrian girls singing the exquisite 
lines in Nazareth, the home of that same Jesus eighteen 
centuries ago ! 

We can not forbear to insert a portion of the hymn, since 
it is a gem of beauty, and since, moreover many readers of this 
work may not have the hymn at hand : 

" What means this eager, anxious throng, 
Moving with busy haste along — 
These wondrous gatherings day by day? 
What rueans*this strange commotion, pray? 
In accents hushed the crowd reply : 
' Jesus of Nazareth passeth by.' " 

" Jesus! 'tis He who once below 
Man's pathway trod 'mid pain and woe ; 
And burdened ones, where 'er he came 
Brought out their sick and blind and lame ; 
The blind rejoiced to hear the cry — 
' Jesus of Nazareth passeth by.' " 

" Ho! all ye heavy laden come ; 
Here 's pardon, comfort, rest and home. 
Ye wanderers from a Father's face, 
Return, accept his proffered grace. 
Ye tempted ones, there's refuge nigh ; 
Jesus of Nazareth passeth by." 

On leaving Nazareth we passed through Cana of Galilee- 



AROUND THE WORLD. 193 

where Christ performed the miracle of changing water into 
wine. We drank from the fountain which is said to be the 
same from which the water was drawn on that occasion. 

The journey from Nazareth to Tiberias occupies five hours, 
the road passing through the battle field of Hattin, where the 
great conflict took place on July eleventh, 1187 at which time 
the sultan, Saladin, gave the final crushing blow to the Cru- 
saders in the Holy Land, and established the Moslem power in 
the East, 

25 



194' TEN YEARS 7 TRAVEL 



CHAPTER VIII. 

The Sea of Galilee — Galilee by Moonlight — Tibeeias — 
Prophecy Fulfilled — Wayside Fountain — The Jordan 
Without a Parallel — Plains of Bash an — Caravan and 
Camels — Deserted Towns and Cities — Our Capture by 
the Arabs — Taken to Their Tents — An Hour of Awful 
Suspense — An Arab Encampment — Arabs Setting up 
Tents. 

fHE Sea of Galilee lies in a deep basin surrounded by a 
circle of hills ? on the east rising to the height of nearly 
?^P two thousand feet. It is more than six hundred feet 
below the level of the Mediterranean Sea, and by some 
geologists is supposed to have been formed by the crater of an 
extinct volcano. It is fourteen miles in length and seven 
in breadth. Associated with some of the most memorable 
acts of our Savior — like Jerusalem — it is enshrined in the 
heart of every follower of Christ. On the shores of this lake 
he called Peter, Andrew, James, John and Matthew to be his 
disciples. It was on this lake that Jesus lay asleep in the boat 
with his disciples, while the waters were lashed by the tempest's 
fury, when they awoke him, and in the majesty of his omnip- 
otent power he bade the winds and waves be still ! It was 
on this sea, while the disciples were in its midst on a 
stormy night, Avith the wild winds coming down and 
rocking their boat amidst the billows, that Jesus came unto 
them walking on the waters, and said "Be of good cheer." It 
was on these waters that He stood in the boat and taught the 
multitudes on the land. It was on the beautiful hills that 
surround this sea, tha.t Jesus healed the maimed and comforted 
the sorrowing. It was on these shores that He miraculously 
multiplied the loaves and fishes and fed the famishing 
multitude. It Was also here that He attested his 



AROUND THE WORLD. 195 

omnipotent wisdom, and comforted his afflicted disciples-^ 
after his resurrection — by the miraculous draught of fishes. 
But to mention all the history connected with the life of Jesus 
and his disciples about the Sea of Galilee, would be to refer 
to a large portion of the gospels. A place so hallowed in the 
life of our Savior, can not fail to awaken deepest emotions of 
interest in the mind of the traveler, and yet, after my first 
burst of feeling was over, I could not conceal my disappoint- 
ment, for there is no real granduer, no beauty in the scene. 
If its hills were ever clothed with trees and beautiful verdure, 
these have perished and faded away. My imaginations of the 
beauty of this place had been highly picturesque, but now, as 
I gazed upon the barren hills, it seemed but a dreamy vision 
from which the beauties had all been shorn. The hill-sides 
on the east are not only destitute of verdure and foliage, but 
are furrowed by ravines. 



BE 






As the shades of night gathered over the land, I remembered 
how, after the day was gone, the Savior went upon these 
mountain-sides alone to pray. What a hallowed spot it 



196 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

seemed yet to be ! How sacred the memory of the scenes once 
enacted there. Here the midnight air echoed with the voice 
of the prayer of the Son of God! 0, holy ground! 0, sacred 
waters! How the words of the poet crowded in upon the 
mind: 

" How pleasant to me thy deep blue wave, 
Sea of Galilee ; 
For the glorious One who came to save, 
Hath often stood by thee. 

Graceful around thee the mountains meet. 

Thou calm, reposing sea ; 
But, oh, far more I the beautiful feet 

Of Jesus walked o'er thee. 

O Savior, gone to God's right hand, 

But the same Savior still ; 
Graved on thy heart is this lovely strand, 

And every fragrant hill." 

As in ancient times, so now, furious storms come suddenly 
whirling down over the hills and lash the waters into mad 
fury, rolling them in every direction as in the days of the 
apostles. At the time of our visit — which was the seventh of 
May — the water was calm and the weather delightful. A 
solemn quiet stillness reigned over mountain and over sea. 

Galilee, being surrounded by mountains, in summer the 
heat becomes very intense — even in early spring the air down 
in the basin in which the sea is situated, partakes much of 
Egyptian balminess, quite different from that on the higher 
lands surrounding it. In some places the hills recede back 
from the waters, leaving a level surface of rich alluvial soil, from 
which vegetation is forced up like in a tropical clime. Among 
the beautiful shrubs that adorned the place, was the oleander, 
blooming in rich profusion. While stopping here, I took a 
bath in the Sea of Galilee. The waters were warm and 
pleasant, and quite refreshing after our journey beneath the 
sun's hot rays. The water is bright, clear, and pure to the 
taste. It abounds in fish as in the days when Andrew and 
Peter were casting their nets in the sea, and the strange words 
of the Savior fell upon their ears, c ' Follow me and I will make 
you fishers of men." 



AROUND THE WORLD. 197 

In the time when Christ visited these shores, they were 
densely thronged by multitudes of people, and by populous 
cities; now the single town of Tiberias, a few insignifiicant 
villages, and the black tents of the Bedouins, are the only 
habitations to be seen. What changes time has wrought! 
What desolations have come upon this country since the days 
of the Savior, yet these shores seem like holy ground, and the 
waters of the sea are sacred still ! How the memories of the 
past thrill the soul! How blessed the privilege to wander 
here, for it was here that the majesty and greatness of the Sav- 
ior was wondrously displayed. How touching, how wondrously 
beautiful the following lines seem, as we call to memory the 
hallowed associations of the past: 

" I love to think of Jesus as he stood beside the sea, 

Where the waves were softly murmuring on the strand; 
As he sat within the boat on the silver waves afloat, 
While he taught the waiting people on the land. 

Chorus: — I love to think of Jesus by the sea, 
O I love to think of Jesus by the sea, 
And I love the precious word 
Which he spake to them that heard 
While he taught the waiting people by the sea. 

O I love to think of Jesus as he sat beside the sea, 
When the waves were rolling fearfully and grand ; 

How the winds and waves were still at the bidding of his will, 
While he brought his loved disciples safe to land. 

Chorus:— O I love to think of Jesus by the sea, 
I love to think of Jesus by the sea, 
How he walked upon the wave 
His beloved ones to save, 
While he brought them safely o'er the stormy sea. 

O I love to think of Jesus as he stood beside the sea, 
Where the fishers spread their nets upon the shore ; 

How he bade them follow him and forsake the paths of sin, 
And to be his true disciples evermore. 

Chorus : — I love to think of Jesus by the sea, 
I love to think of Jesus by the sea, 
And I long to leave my all 
At my dear Redeemer's call, 
And his true disciple evermore to be. 



198 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

GALILEE BY MOONLIGHT. 

Although desolation marks the shores of Galilee, there is 
still something about it that seems beautiful, and much that is 
impressive; but to get the full force of all this, one must view 
it by moonlight. How sacred, how solemn! are its night 
associations in sacred record. It was at night that Jesus 
awoke from his slumber, laid his hands upon the winds, and 
bid the raging storm to cease. It was at night that he poured 
out his voice in prayer upon the hills by its shores. It was at 
night that he came to the disciples walking upon the waters. 
And we imagine it was a moonlight night, for had there been 
no moon, the disciples could not have beheld him so plainly. 




It is true the sea was boistrous, but the winds often sweep 
down upon this lake, and whirl the waters about in wildest 
fury when there are no dark and threatening clouds, and even 
while the moon is reflected in its placid waters, and the ■ stars 
twinkling in a cloudless sky. And now as we view the sea and 
its sacred hills by moonlight, how vividly these scenes in the 
life of our Savior crowd in upon the mind. The}' come 
floating back over the ages that have passed, until the whole 
scene before us becomes wrapt in a halo of glory ! It was hj 
the light of this nightly orb, with such visions of the past 
before us, that we took our last view of the Sea of Galilee. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



199 



TIBERIAS. 

Tiberias stands upon the western shore of the Sea of Galilee. 
It is an old Roman town. After the Jews were dispelled from 
Jerusalem, 'they made their headquarters at Tiberias, and to 
this place the Sanhedrim was removed. At present the town 
is in a dilapidated condition, and its streets are very dirty. 

While here, ;ve stopped at the convent, which issaidto occupy 
the site of Peter's house, near the place of the miraculous draught 
of fishes. Modern Tiberias is a town of about two thousand 
inhabitants. A large proportion of the people are Jews, 
who esteem Tiberias, Safed, Jerusalem, and Hebron as their 
most holy cities. Tiberias, in the time of Christ, was the 
capital city of Galilee, to which Herod, its founder, brought 
the arts of Greece, the idolatry of Rome, and the vices of Asia. 
There were a theater, a forum, and a palace roofed with gold, 
in imitation of those in Italy. There were statues of the 
Roman gods, and busts of the deified emperors. On the shores 
of the lake below Tibereas, are the warm baths, which are 
supplied with water by seven hot springs, at a temperature of 
144° Fahrenheit, the water having a bitter taste and the smell 
of sulphur. 




r— ^yilv?± 

■'■■ : --'-;' J ■ ■":'}:::. ^>"' -~ >~A < ^' 

SITE 03T C-£vX=H^,^T-^TT^Z. 

On leaving Tiberias, we rode along the western shore 
of the sea, which was fringed with thickets of oleanders, 
and a variety of brilliant flowers gemmed the turf. A 



200 



TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



cluster of mud-hovels near the lake, with a single palni tree 
rising among them, marks the site of Magdala, the home of 
Mary Magdalene. To the north, high upon a mountain, may 
be seen a white-walled town. This is Safed, to which Jesus 
referred when he said, " A city set upon a hill can not be hid." 
Continuing along the shore of the lake, we come to the site of 
Capernaum. 

PROPHECY FULFILLED. 

Broken columns, hewn stones, sculptured slabs of marble, 
and mounds of rubbish, serve to mark the site of this once 
important city. The same scene of gloom and desolation 
reigns around the places where stood Bethsaida and Chorazin. 
Christ's words nave been amply fulfilled. Nature has lavished 
upon the country some of her choicest gifts — a rich soil, and 
a genial climate — but man has deserted it. 

The scripture prophecy has been notabty fulfilled : " I will 
bring the land into desolation, and I will scatter you among 
the heathen." Christ pronounced a woe against Caper- 
naum, Chorazin, and Bethsaida: "Woe unto thee, Caper- 
naum ! Woe unto thee, Chorazin ! Woe unto thee, 
Bethsaida!" and that solemn sentence of doom rests visibly 
upon the stricken places at this day. 

WAYSIDE FOUNTAIN. 

We stopped at a 
large stone house and 
took breakfast. The 
spring by the wayside 
was there, a walled 
Us garden and fig trees. 
The house was in a 
good state of preserva- 
tion, with rooms, doors, 
windows, and the roof 
still arched over; yet it 
had stood tenantless 
for ages. 

Leaving the hill 
country on the north- 

T77A^SI3DE STOTTXTT^irLT. em gide of the g ea Q f 




AROUND THE WOULD. 201 

Galilee, we enter a broad, open plain, through which flows 
the Jordan. About two miles south of theWaters of Merom, or 
Lake Huleh, there is an ancient bridge, called " Jeser Benath 
Yakub" (the bridge of Jacob's daughters). There is a 
tradition that Jacob crossed the river at this place when 
returning from Mesopotamia, and that here he met his brother 
Esau. This is the road from Egypt and Jerusalem to 
Damascus. For centuries, invading armies and caravans of 
peaceful traders have passed to and fro along this famous 
route. At this bridge the waters of the Jordan, which flow 
from Lake Huleh in a smooth placid stream, become a foaming 
torrent. 

THE JORDAN WITHOUT A PARALLEL. 

The Jordan is nearly without geographical and historical par- 
allel in the world. Although the distance from the Sea of Gali- 
lee to the Dead Sea, is only sixty miles on a straight line, it is two 
hundred miles by the course of the river, which has innum- 
erable curves. Its depth varies from three to twelve feet, and 
its width at different points, from seventy-five to two hundred. 
It has twenty-seven rapids and falls. The descent of the bed 
of the Jordan between the Sea of Galilee and the Dead Sea, is 
about seven hundred feet. As I bathed in the waters of the 
Jordan I held fast to the branches of the trees that I might 
not be swept away by the dashing torrent. I filled a bottle 
with the water, which I have carried with me ever since. 
Crossing the bridge and ascending the old Roman road to the 
height of two thousand feet, we looked down upon the 

PLAINS OF BASHAN. 

This region has ever been the land of sacred romance. 
From the earliest historic period down to the present day, 
there has always been something of mystery and of strange 
wild interest connected with this old kingdom. The plain was 
covered with a luxuriant growth of grass, with here and there 
a belt of oak trees. The valley of the Jordan lay below us, 
the mountains of Hauran were seen in the eastern horizon, 
and Mount Hermon on the north. 

26 



202 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

So profound was the silence that reigned everywhere in this 
great ocean of verdure, that we were startled even by the sound 
of our own voices. 

" Once more we look and all is still as night, 
All desolate! groves — temples — palaces — 
Swept from the sight and nothing visible ; 
All things were calm, and fair, and passive ; 
Earth looked as if lulled upon an angel's lap 
Into a breathless dewy sleep, so still 
That I could only say of things, they be 
The lakelet now no longer vexed with gusts, 
Replaced upon her breast the pictured moon, 
Pearled round with stars." 

CARAVAN AND CAMELS. 

Having arranged our tents for the night, there came 
in the dim light, moving along with stealthy tread, a 
long string of heavily laden camels. So noiseless and so 
measured was their pace that they seemed to be only phantoms 
arising out of the solitude. They belonged to a caravan of 
traders who had encamped near us, a multitude of Arabs and 
their animals with the burdens which they bore, gathered from 
the harvests and stores of the East. Early the next morning 
we started on our journey. The dawn of day presented a 
a scene of intense interest. The air was calm, and the silence 
as of death still reigned supreme. The sun rose with gorgeous 
hues, reflecting his resplendent rays on the vast plain of grass 
which, swayed by a gentle breeze, seemed a great ocean of 
emerald, gleaming with crimson and gold. The brilliant 
foliage of the oak forests glittered in the sunshine like 
pyramids of prisms. 

DESERTED TOWNS AND CITIES. 

There are towns in Bashan deserted, yet not ruined. Cities 
remain to this day which were built four thousand years ago, 
and which may have been the works of the tribes which 
contended with Abraham — the giants of Bashan. The con- 
quest of the land began under Moses; it was the portion 
allotted to the half tribe of Manasseh. Some of the native 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



203 




204 TEN YEARS 1 TRAVEL 

tribes were not exterminated. David met Talmai, their chief, 
and married his daughter, and she was the mother of Absalom, 

The houses that have stood here for centuries are by no 
means ordinary dwellings. Their walls are from five to eight 
feet thick, and are built of large square blocks of basalt ; the 
roofs are formed of the same material ; the doors and window- 
shutters are of stone and hang upon stone pivots. We visited 
some of these houses and walked through their silent and 
vacant rooms. 

This whole region is marked with evidences of volcanic ac- 
tion. The soil is black, the rocks are black, and the buildings 
are all black. Had it not been for the green grass, and the 
brilliant foliage of the forests of oaks, that glistened in the 
sunlight like a forest of prisms, the scene would have presented 
a gloomy aspect. Cones of extinct volcanoes dot this great 
plateau. We ascended the top of one of these and looked 
down into its crater, which was hollowed out with as much 
exactness as a marble basin, and overgrown with grass. On 
descending into some of these cones, with the grass beneath 
our feet, and the sky over our heads, it seemed much like we 
were in a globe, with the lower half lined with soft green vel- 
vet, and the upper portion with cerulean blue. 

Our dragoman remained below with the horses, while we 
wandered among volcanic hills and deep pits. As we explored 
these wonders, and studied the evidences of subteranean fires 
in the unknown ages of the past, a solemn silence, deep and 
profound, awed the mind. Here I contemplated the majesty 
and greatness of the Maker of worlds, until feelings of deepest 
reverence took possession of my soul. 

OUR CAPTURE BY THE ARABS. 

At length the silence which reigned about us was broken by 
the sound of horses hoofs on the hard basalt. On looking 
about we saw a band of wild Arabs emerging from an adjacent 
cone. Holding their long lances high over their heads, they 
came sweeping across the plain toward us on their swift 
fleeting steeds. In a moment we took in our situation. 
Horrors of those who before had fallen into the hands of these 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



205 




206 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

lawless rovers, rushed before our minds. What were Ave to do? 
There was no human help at hand, and our horses were not 
fleet enough to enable us to make our escape. No hiding 
place, unknown to these savage men, was near at hand. There 
seemed no possible way of escape, and already we too well 
knew our fate. In a moment more they were upon us and we 
were their captives. In their black fierce looking eyes, we 
saw no indications of mercy, and with terrible threats they 
demanded our money and other effects. Our dragoman or 
guide, told them that we had sent every thing of value by 
steamer from Jaffa to Beruit, and then with his prolific mind 
and fertile imagination, fabricated a long tale about a great 
band of Turkish troops, of which (he said) we were the 
advance party. He stated that they had huge guns and 
mighty engines of war, with which they would anihilate their 
whole tribe if any harm was done unto us. They then ordered 
us to mount our horses and go with them. 

TAKEN TO THEIR TENTS. 

For hours we traveled on under the guidance of our captors. 
At last the black tents of the Bedouins, came into view. 
These tents were very numerous, making quite a village upon 
the plains. It was a picturesque and impressive scene, and 
the circumstances which brought us thither, will make it long 
remembered. The vast plains about them were covered with 
their flocks. Their camels alone numbered more than one 
thousand, many of which were young and very beautiful, with 
hair soft and fleecy like wool, and white as the driven snow. 

The sheik or chief of the tribe was seated at his tent door, 
as was the custom of Abraham. Tall spears were planted on 
each side of him, and he looked like a man into whose hands 
it would be dangerous to fall. 

AN HOUR OF AWFUL SUSPENSE. 

We were marched up in front, and held in charge by our 
captors, while our dragoman was taken to the chief. Here 
we waited in awful suspense, not knowing what might be our 
fate. If we gained the favor of the sheik, all would be well ; if 



AROUND THE WORLD. 207 

not, perhaps we had but a few hours to live, or if our lives were 
not destroyed, we might be held in a bondage even worse than 
death itself! Scenes of terrible barbarities flitted across the 
mind like a phantom. How dreadful is the suspense of such 
an hour ! But what could we do but wait and hope for the 
best. Our dragoman was a man well fitted tor such an 
emergency, and no doubt was making the best possible 
disposition of the case. In a little while, we were invited into 
the tent, and to our surprise and great relief, the sheik received 
us with the utmost hospitality. Our dragoman had proved 
himself quite equal to the demand of the critical hour. 
How much of this he accomplished by falsehood we never 
knew, but we neither lacked for honor nor kindness. Fine 
Turkish mats were spread for us to sit upon. Fresh milk was 
brought by the women, in clean bright vessels, for us to drink; 
and coffee, bread and eggs, were served to us freely. We then 
gave them some lemons, oranges, sugar and other articles. 

The tent of the sheik was made of beautiful and rich cloth 
from Damascus. The other tents were made of goat's hair, 
which seems admirably fitted for this purpose. This cloth is 
open and porous, but swells when wet, thus becoming 
impervious to rain. The tents resemble, in shape, an oblong 
shed. 

After resting for a while, the sheik provided us with a 
mounted escort, and we were conducted out of the camp in 
safety, passing through the midst of the encampment of this 
large and powerful tribe of Azeneah, the largest and most 
powerful of all the wild Arabs. As hi Gideon's day, they still 
come up and lay waste and destroy the fruits and increase of 
the land. Like Ishmael of old, " their hand is against every 
man and every man's hand against them." We truly felt that 
our deliverence from these wild, fierce, marauding people — of 
whom it is said " they are fleet as the gazelle and fierce as the 
leopard *' — was remarkable, if not providential. 

AN ARAB ENCAMPMENT. 

is a scene most strikingly picturesque. Yesterday, the waste 
and sandy desert, or the bare and grassy plain ; to day, scores of 
tents pitched, and filled with the furniture belonging to these 



208 



TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



wandering nomads ; other tents in the process of being 
spread and fastened to the ground, while great quantities of 
goods lie scattered over the surface of the earth, awaiting the 
opportunity of storage within ; camels, standing quietly or 
lying peacefully chewing their cud ; women sitting upon the 
bales of goods, and children playing and frolicking in their 
rapturous glee, all awaiting the completion of the preparation 
of the tents which the men are busily erecting, which presents 
a scene of life and bustling activity, unique, wonderful and not 
to be found elsewere than among these desert tribes. 

And such scenes have been enacted and witnessed for 
thousands of years, since the days of Jabal, the son of Lamech, 
the son of Methusael, which Jabal was the seventh from 




ASABS SETTING Tj":E= TE1TTS. 

Adam in the line of Cain, his eldest son and contemporary, 
with whom our primal ancestors lived for centuries, and who 



AROUND THE WORLD. 209 

is said in the Sacred Book to have been the "father of such as 
dwell in tents and such as have cattle." 

We give a very apt and striking view of an Arab encamp- 
ment, including the act of pitching a tent and making it 
ready for occupancy. 

ARAB COSTUMES. 

We give also at this point a brief description of some 
of the more common Arab costumes. That of the men 
consists of the Aba, a narrow cloak made of camel's hair, 
striped white and brown, and a leathern girdle, such as was 
worn by John the Baptist, who no doubt assumed the garb of 
the wandering Arab during his abode in the desert. On the 
head is worn the tarbouch, or felt cap ; thrown over this is a 
silk or cotton shawl, called the Tceefeyeh, with broad stripes of 
white and yellow, having the ends ornamented with a fringe. 
This is confined by the akal, two bands of a twisted cord of 
camel's hair. 

The Bedouin females generally wear a dark blue cotton 
robe, like that worn by the peasant women in other parts of 
Syria; but the former are distinguished by face- veils of either 
crimson or white crape, instead of black, which are short, 
barely reaching to the chin; and most of them are fringed 
with coins of silver. . They have rings on their fingers and 
toes, and bracelets on the arms, both below and above the 
elbow, and bangles on the ankles. They wear the hair in 
braids, brought down to support the lobe of the ear, which is 
weighed down with jewelry. 

27 



210 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



CHAPTER IX. 

A Village in Bashan — Desolation — Sublime Scene — Vol- 
canic Region — Old Roman Road — Pharpar and Abana 
Rivers — Damascus — Damascus History — A Holy City — 
Saul at Damascus — •" Street Called Straight" — Old 
Testament History — Arrival at Damascus — Life in 
Damascus — Divan, or Reception Room — Mosques — Mas- 
sacre of the Christians — Christian Missions — Roman 
Catholics — The Bazaars of Damascus — Commodities of 
Damascus — Gate of St. Thomas — A Lady of Romance — 
Adventure at Night. 

tT night we stopped in the town of Misrecardes. This 
village was built from the ruins of an ancient city 
Tsgpr founded in the days of the Rephaim, and ruled by 
Queen Ides. We were entertained at the house of a wealthy 
Moslem, and were served to a very nice meal, consisting of 
coffee, warm bread, butter, broiled eggs and fresh milk, which 
was placed on a round mat on the floor. While here we were 
visited by many of the people who had heard of our capture 
by the wild Arabs and our remarkable escape. Among the 
number was the sheik of the town, who remained with us a 
long time, conversing about various subjects. He obtained of 
us a number of prescriptions for some of his people, who were 
invalids. He wore upon his head a great white turban near 
one yard in diameter. 

DESOLATION. 

During the day we passed many deserted and decaying 
towns and villages, built by the ancient inhabitants. Deserted 
dwellings, traces of fields, fences, and other marks of former 
prosperity were everywhere visible. Many of the ancient 
cities of Palestine have been' annihilated. The site of 
Capernaum is now a question of doubt; Bethlehem has come 



AROUND THE WORLD. 211 

to naught; Jericho has disappeared; but the towns of Bashan, 
although mostly deserted are not ruined. Here are the works 
of the tribes which contended with Abraham — men, too, of 
such stature that the Jewish spies declared that they were but 
as grasshoppers before the inhabitants of the land, and that 
they found there the sons of Anak. There are, however, still 
remaining in the plains of Bashan, eleven inhabited cities. 
We had resumed our journey on that morning at three o'clock, 
and the day had been one full of interest and thrilling 
experience. 

SUBLIME SCENE. 

When the morning dawned, a scene of intense delight was 
presented to our view. On the east, far away toward the rising 
sun, appeared a chain of mountains resembling a fortress. On 
the north were the heights of Hermon, with snow-covered 
peaks. The great plateau was filled with cones of extinct 
volcanoes. All about us the tall grass looked like a sea of 
verdure; but the most striking feature was the death-like 
silence that reigned over all. Not a human being nor any 
living creature was visible when the morning light broke upon 
our eyes. The air was quiet, and as the sun rose above the 
mountains, pyramids and columns of gold, and waves of 
crimson illumined the east. Glittering rays of light darted 
up to the zenith and athwart the sky. A sunrise in Bashan is 
often a grand and sublime scene. 

VOLCANIC REGION. 

On the following morning — which was the twentieth of 
May, and the last day of- our journey from Jerusalem to 
Damascus — we passed over a wild and rocky region filled with 
blocks of basalt. It appears that this whole plain, at some 
period of the world's history, has been spread over with a mass 
of molten lava. The surface of the ground is covered with 
jagged rocks, here heaped up into great and rugged piles, and 
there sunk into deep pits; at one place smooth and naked, 
and so regular as closely to resemble a jointed pavement; at 
another seamed with deep fissures, in whose chinks sprang 
up rank grass and weeds. The rock — as has already been 



212 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

stated — is entirely basalt. The molten lava seems to have 
issued from the earth from innumerable pores, and thus to have 
spread over the whole plain, becoming rent and shattered 
while in the process of cooling. 

The sun poured his burning rays down upon us, and the 
road along which we traveled sent up a fervid heat, while the 
snow-capped summit of Mount Hermon seemed near at hand. 
The cooling snows of the mountain top, and the refreshing 
fountains upon its sides, kept continually tempting us to leave 
the road and clamber up the slopes to seek a cooling draught. 
However we restrained our desire, and pressed eagerly and 
rapidly forward, anxious to reach and to behold the ancient 
and venerable city of Damascus — the "Jewel and Garden of the 
World." 

Through the transparent atmosphere of Syria, objects are 
visible to a wonderful distance, well nigh incredible to one 
who has had no experience in that land. We find ourselves 
constantly deceived in this matter, and places recede before 
our vision like an ignis fatuus. 

OLD ROMAN ROAD. 

Through this curious and romantic region extends the 
ancient Roman road, made, indeed, in the days of the Caesars, 
yet hard and perfect as it was centuries ago. Broad, smooth, 
well paved, with a hard and compact surface, it sweeps along 
among the roughnesses of the surrounding country, clear and 
straight as an arrow. The pavement, perhaps of the age of 
near two thousand years, is, nevertheless, as perfect in surface 
and substance as that of the famous Appian Way. The road 
leads at one point into and through what is styled the " Wady 
El Ajam," or Valley of the Persians, in which are a town and 
some barracks for Turkish troops. 

PHARPAR AND ABANA RIVERS. 

We stopped amid a grove of Lombardy poplars, on the 
banks of the Arwaj — the ancient Pharpar — and took our break- 
fast, using for the purpose the waters of the beautiful stream, 
which are pure, cold, and limpid, fresh from the snows of 
Hermon, bright, dancing and sparkling. No wonder the 



AROUND THE WORLD. 213 

famous Syrian chieftain fondly imagined that he might as 
well have bathed in its pellucid waters as in those of the 
distant and turbid Jordan. The stream is deep and rapid, 
finely shaded with poplars and willows. Besides drinking 
of the waters of this channel, I had the pleasure of a foot 
bath in its clear, cold current. 

The great plain of Damascus is rendered a marvel of delight 
and wonder by the two famous rivers, Pharpar and Abana, 
and their countless branches threading the valley in every 
direction. The Abana — styled now the Barada — comes chiefly 
from what are called the Fountains of Fijeh, springing to the 
surface like a river pouring from beneath great rooks. These 
streams, as we have said, supply the whole plain, and 
every house in Damascus, their waters being clear as crystal. 
The entire plain is, in fact, one vast garden, with scores, 
perhaps hundreds of villages. We gazed enraptured on the 
SGene as it lay outstretched before us; and now, though far, far 
away, and though long years have passed, fond memory dwells 
still upon those bright and joyous visions. The day was 
intensely clear. One seems to look to the very bottom of 
heaven's profoundest azure, 

" Where the everlasting stars abide." 

How sharply defined was every rock and ravine upon the 
heights of Hermon. 

DAMASCUS. 

Damascus is the oldest city in the world! Forty centuries 
have witnessed its vicissitudes, and yet it still retains all the 
freshness of youth and beauty. Its orchards and groves and 
gardens, rich in foliage and in blossoms, wrap the city 
round like a mantle of green velvet powdered with pearls. 

Damascus is, indeed, an ancient city. Josephus says it was 
founded by the son of Aram and the grandson of Shem. 
When Abraham crossed the Syrian desert from Haran three 
thousand eight hundred years ago, Damascus lay in that 
peerless valley, shining in its matchless beauty and magnifi- 
cence; and there she stands to-day, always first and loveliest 
among the capitals of Western Asia. 



214 



TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 




AROUND THE WORLD. 215 

What a vista does her history present! Beside her, hun- 
dreds of mighty cities have crumbled into dust. Tyre and 
Sidon have been swept away by the waves of the "Great 
Midland Sea," Baalbec is silent and desolate in the arid waste; 
Palmyra lies buried in the drifting sands heaped ever higher 
and deeper upon its marble pillars and its fallen columns ; 
Nineveh has disappeared from the Tigris, and Babylon from 
the Euphrates; but Damascus remains to-day what it was 
before the days of Abram the Chaldean — a center of trade and 
travel, of business and commerce and luxury, an island of 
perennial verdure, the magic "Pearl of the East," standing m 
peerless magnificence and unrivaled historic renown. 

The caravan comes and goes as it came and went a thousand, 
nay, two, and even three thousand years ago. The city which 
Mohammed is said to have viewed from Mount Salaheyeh, or 
the Dome of Victory, and which he refused to enter, saying, 
"Man can have only one Paradise and my Paradise is above," 
is the same to-day as it was when styled by the Emperor 
Julian "The Eye of the East." It is even now what it was in 
the day when the Prophet Isaiah called it the "Head of Syria." 

DAMASCUS HISTORY. 

Damascus has indeed passed through many and wondrous 
vicissitudes. Phenicians, Syrians, Persians, Greeks, Romans, 
Arabs and Turks have each in turn, and for hundreds 
of years, borne sway over its destinies, but under them all, 
and in spite of them all it has lived and flourished. Of 
the destructive horrors of war the city has experienced its full 
share. Twelve times has it been pillaged and burned, yet 
from every season of carnage and from every conflagration, its 
walls and palaces have arisen with new splendor from its 
ashes. Well may the historic writer break forth and say in 
the beautiful imagery of the East, "Though old as history 
itself, thou art fresh as the breath of spring, blooming as thine 
own rose bud, and fragrant as thine own orange flower, 
Damascus, thou 'Pearl of the East.' " The beauty of Damascus 
and its environs is indeed beyond the power of words to 



216' TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

describe. Villages scattered throughout the wide-spreading 
plain, rich fields of grain waving and smiling on every hand 
and as far as the eye can reach ; the snow-capped peak of 
Mount Hermon rising on the left, and the heights of Anti- 
Lebanon on the right, its long, bare ridge running away 
towards the east, with the top of Jebel Tiniyeh rising up in 
the midst, the extensive plain with its many-tinted foliage 
and deep green corn fields spreading afar, bounded here and 
there by graceful hills, with the villages, moreover, embowered 
in their own especial orchards and groves to the right and to 
the left — these, and scenes like these, are beauty itself. To a 
traveler, weary and heart sick, who has journeyed as we had 
done, from far Jerusalem, over the rugged slopes, through the 
rocky defiles and across the rough and craggy mountains 
beneath the intense rays of the fierce Syrian sun, no 
description can portray the delights of a sojourn in the city 
of Damascus I 

A HOLY CITY. 

Damascus to the Mohammedan is an Earthly Paradise, a 
grand and splendid pageant, and a scene of wondrous magnifi- 
cence ; their ideal of luxury and beauty, venerable for its 
existence almost from time immemorial, and full of the wealth 
of the eastern world. But to the Christian, Damascus takes 
on largely the character of a holy city, being rendered sacred 
by the fact that it was the scene of the conversion and some- 
what of the labors of the great apostle of the Gentiles. He 
was on his way from Jerusalem to this renowned metropolis, 
prepared to reproduce the fearful scenes of persecution in 
Damascus, which had already disgraced the Jewish capital. 
As he drew near Damascus, the same views doubtless engaged 
the attention of the traveler as may be witnessed along that 
route to-day. The villages embowered in rich and luxuriant 
foliage, the buildings of the city itself towering above the 
trees, the cloudless sky, the overpowering sun pouring its 
flood of light and heat from mid-heaven, on city, mountain 



AROUND THE WORLD. 217 

and plain. The same objects living and moving athwart 
the landscape — a long line of heavy laden camels, bearing 
to the marts of Damascus the wheat of Auranitis, Bedouin 
chiefs and cavaliers from the eastern deserts, armed with 
their long and slender lances ; industrious peasants driving 
their plodding oxen with sharp goads, forcibly illustrating, 
if not indeed suggesting the words of Jesus to Saul. And 
now behold the young and fierce enthusiast in the heyday 
of his ambition, sent on a mission of persecution against the 
despised and hated Nazarene and his followers to a foreign 
city, he draws near his destination in company with a band of 
comrades, perhaps only less fierce and fanatical than their 
young and fiery leader. The sun is shining down in all its 
splendor, and how great that splendor is, none can know who 
has not witnessed it in his own person. " But suddenly about 
mid-day I saw a great light from heaven above the brightness 
of the sun, shining round about me, and them that journeyed 
with me." 

How great, indeed, must have been the intensity of that 
dazzling, blinding light, for in a Syrian noon-tide the broiling 
«un shines fiercely down from above our heads in a blaze of 
boundless glory ! 

SAUL AT DAMASCUS. 

Poor, humbled, stricken, helpless Saul ! His pride is broken, 
he is led blind and tottering within the walls of Damascus, to 
await what the Lord shall- reveal unto him there! The con- 
version ot Saul of Tarsus with its concomitant events is truly 
enough to throw a halo of sacred christian light and beauty 
around this remarkable city, and we can never hear the name 
of Damascus without a feeling of veneration. We would 
gladly recount something more of his history, but it may be 
found in the New Testament, and we cannot dwell. We may 
properly say that the scenes of the events of Saul's sojourn at 
Damascus are localized by the traditions of the place. 

28 



218 



TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



STREET CALLE D STRAIGHT. 



The street which is called "Straight" — not straight indeed, 

but much more nearly 



so than the others in the 
city — is there still, and it 
is shown in the accom- 
panying illustration. 
The house of Judas, that 
of Ananias, the place 
where he was let down 
in a basket over the 
wall, and perhaps other 
places, are shown to the 
curious traveler. These 
events took place, of 
course, in the city some- 
where, and we may as 
well consider them to 
have occurred at the 
particular spots pointed 
out as anywhere else. 
The " street " is almost 
certainly the identical 
thoroughfare of olden 




st:e2,:e;:eit called steaight 
we have no means of judging. 



times; as to the others 



OLD TESTAMENT HISTORY. 

Not alone does the New Testament lead us to Damascus, but 
the history of ancient Israel is bound thereto by many links. 
The Jews and the Syrians were at war almost without inter- 
mission with ever varying fortunes-. It was to anoint Hazaell 
to be king over Syria [I King 19: 15] that the prophet Elijah 
was commanded to go his way to the wilderness of Damascus. 
It was at Damascus that Elisha confirmed Hazaell's title to be 
king over Syria, which caused that wicked prince to murder 
his royal master. [II King 8 Chap.] All these records, and all 



AROUND THE WORLD. 219 

the aecounts concerning Damascus in sacred writ, are thor- 
oughly oriental, and agree most exactly with the character of 
the place, for no large city in the East, unless, indeed, it be 
Cairo, has so fully and so wonderfully preserved the peculiar 
and indescribable charm and luxuriance of Eastern lands. 
But we will not longer be detained on the borders of this 
earthly Paradise. No Moslem superstition shall hinder us 
from reveling amid its beauties. We shall roam through its 
fragrant gardens, we shall recline by its sparkling fountains 
fed by the precious waters of the Abana; we shall gaze upon 
its gorgeous palaces and its sacred mosques, where ancient 
Caliphs have dwelt and worshiped ; we shall visit houses and 
enter halls whose marble floors, mosaic walls and arabesque 
ceilings, the most high-wrought descriptions of the Arabian 
Nights do not surpass; we shall stroll along bazaars where 
Damascus blades and gold-embroidered robes, and jeweled 
daggers, and all things rich and rare and strange, glitter amid 
piles of Eastern silks, and shawls of Persia and Cashmere. 
Yea, verily, from our early youth to this hour have we 
wondered at the fabulous beauty of this renowned Eastern 
city, and now surely our eyes shall not be denied the glad- 
some, the matchless sight. 

ARRIVAL AT DAMASCUS. 

We entered the city on the 20th of May, 1875, through 
" Buwabet Allah," " The Gate of God," being the same by 
which the annual Pilgrim caravan to Mecca passes out upon 
its pious journey. To the right lies a very large cemetery, 
after which come the beautiful mosque and hospital of Sultan 
Selim. From this gate extends a broad, straight, splendid 
street, into and through the heart of the town, filled with the 
life, and stir, and bustle of a great city. 

LIFE IN DAMASCUS. 

When once within the place, we went without delay to the 
best hotel, where we enjoyed to the full, during our sojourn 
there, the peculiar luxuries of oriental life. 



220 



TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



The appointments were magnificent. Here were soft, cush- 
ioned divans, arabesque ceilings, Turkish mats upon the floors, 
murmuring fountains in the spacious halls, the marble-laid 
court, having its fountain surrounded by trees of orange, 
lemon, citron, fig and pomegranate, grape vine bowers, the 
jessamine and the rose. Everywhere were scenes to awaken 
the thought and the ieeling, " If there be a paradise on earth 
this is the spot." The city of Damascus is probably the most 
thoroughly and completely and splendidly Oriental of any 




B«fi: 



town on the globe. The spirit of the ' Arabian Nights' is 
everywhere present, and prevalent in everything which we 
behold. In the streets, the dwellings, the palaces, the mosques, 
all are like nothing to be found elsewhere. The people, the 
costumes, the manners, the implements, the methods, all show 
human life as it has existed and flourished for thousands of 
years. And in this paradise of the Old World and the New, 
we spent six brief but happy weeks. 

The population of Damascus may number, perhaps, one 
hundred and fifty to two hundred thousand persons, of whom 
about five-sixths are Mohammedans, and the rest chiefly 
Christians and Jews. 



MOSQU ES 



Eull two hundred Mosques are to be found in Damascus; 
the most important of these, and the most magnificent 



AROUND THE WORLD. 221 

building in the place, is the Great Mosque, now the chief 
sanctuary in the city. Its imposing dome and its three lofty 
minarets may be seen from a great distance in every direction. 
Near the Mosque stands the Castle or Citadel, a huge fortress, 
founded in an ancient day. The mosque was at first a heathen 
temple. In the fourth century it was remodeled, and thus 
became a Christian cathedral. It now stands in the form of a 
Basilica, with Corinthian columns. On one side there is a 
■spacious cloistered court flagged with marble and ornamented 
with domes and fountains. 

The religion of the Cross advanced rapidly in this city 
during seventy years after the conversion of St. Paul, and 
afterwards, during nearly three centuries, it was the prevailing 
faith. But in A. D. 634, after much fighting and long and 
fierce conflict, Damascus fell into the hands of the Moham- 
medans, and they have mostly been the masters of that- 
magnificent capital for more than twelve centuries; and 
the adherents of the Crucified One have been often under cruel 
law, sometimes amounting to massacre and death. 

MASSACRE OF THE CHRISTIANS. 

This dreadful slaughter occured in 1860, during which six 
thousand of the Christians were put to death. This 
massacre has bad no parallel since the days of Tamerlane. 
Abdel Kacler, ex-Chief of Algiers, — whose acquaintance was 
made by us at Damascus — -undertook to protect the Christians 
who survived the massacre, and obtained refuge for them in 
the castle or citadel. Tradition places the head of John the 
Baptist in one of the crypts of the great mosque, and his body 
in the Church of St. John at Samaria. 

CHRISTIAN MISSIONS. 

There are two Christian Missions in Damascus, one under 
the English, the other under the American Board, of which 
latter Drs. Patterson and Crosby with their wives, are in 
charge. The American School is in a prosperous condition, 
many of the young men having completed their regular course 



222 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

and studied Theology, while others have already entered 
the ministry. It may be proper here to state that while in 
Damascus we became acquainted with Dr. Meshakah, an old 
man and one of the first Christian converts there, being at the 
time of our visit the United States Consul for that city. He 
has long been and still is a prominent and influential man, a 
celebrated surgeon, and the author of several works for the 
advancement of the Christian religion. He has three sons, all 
like their father, active, earnest Christian men. The Doctor's 
usefulness is drawing near its close, for he is becoming aged, 
and suffering from partial paralysis, but he has had a noted 
career, being an energetic and instructive writer, and having 
done much, moreover, in many ways to sustain and advance 
the cause of a sound and pure Christianity. One of his sons 
has been appointed consul in the room of his venerable father, 
and another is a distinguished physician. 

The first Protestant Mission was established in 1843, by two 
missionaries, one from the Presbyterians of Ireland, and the 
other belonging to the church of Scotland, but it is now con- 
ducted by Rev. Mcintosh. 

ROMAN CATHOLICS. 

This class of religionists also has several large convents in 
the city. On ''Corpus Christi Day" the nuns had their whole 
school of six hundred Syrian girls in the procession, dressed 
in white with emblems and flowers. The young ladies looked 
really beautiful, and having adopted the Christian faith, they 
can walk the streets with unveiled faces, while every Moslem 
woman is compelled to stalk like a ghost, wholly wrapt in a 
white veil, like a veritable winding sheet. Indeed, every 
Moslem woman in Syria wears a veil of some sort, most com- 
monly white, with which she is more or less closely enveloped. 
This veiling in white, though it seems unique enough at first, 
is livelier in appearance and wins favor sooner than the black 
veils in vogue in some other countries, as in several South 
American cities. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 223 



BAZAARS OF DAMASCUS. 

These unique and curious marts of trade are thoroughly 
Oriental, and they are the largest and best in the East. They 
consist of narrow covered streets or lanes, as it were, with the 
shops ranged on each side like stalls, in which we behold 
yellow-turbaned and long-bearded merchants seated upon 
mats, and clad in their richest damask robes, with their 
bubbling narghiles, or pipes, with long flexible tubes made of 
morocco, or it may be squatting in the corner of the stall, as 
calm and tranquil as though they had been placed there for 
display, like the piles of silks and other goods that rise up on 
every hand. Each trade has its quarter or section in the 
network of bazaars; there is the shoe bazaar, the grain bazaar, 
the silk and cotton bazaars, the gold and silver bazaar, &c. In 
the shoe bazaar are morocco slippers of every brilliant color 
red and yellow predominating. There are velvet slippers 
embroidered with gold and silver. The sandals for women 
are called kubkobs. They consist of a horizontal piece shaped 
like the sole of a shoe, supported on two upright ones, eight 
inches high, with bands that go around the foot, and are 
oramented with various designs, and set with mother of pearl 
and brilliants. 

THE GREAT MARKET DAY. 

Friday, the Mohammedan Sunday, is also the great market 
day — the bazaars are then- thronged. Panniered donkeys, 
great numbers of mules and camels, and crowds of people in 
all the varied costumes of the East, may be seen about the 
streets. There are Moslems, with the beautiful silk turbans, 
and the great white turbans ; the Turk with the red fez ; and 
the dervish, with his flower-potted hat; the Persian with his 
furred sugar-loaf; the Bedouin with his flame-colored kefeych; 
and the women in their white veils. The city, apparently so 
secluded in its evergreen bower, away from the ordinary scenes 
of life, is full of activity and trade. The streets resound with 



224 



TEN YEARS 1 TRAVEL 



the sound of the hammer and the loom, and are animated 
with the works of artisans and the products of merchandise. 



COMMODITIES OF DAMASCUS. 

From Damascus come the Damson plums, and the delicious 
apricots, called Damasco; also our beautiful fabrics of cotton 
and silk, with vines and flowers raised on a smooth, bright 
ground; and the Damask rose, introduced into England in the 
time of Henry VIIL; the Damascus blade, so famous the 
world over for its keen edge and its wonderful elasticity — the 
secret of whose manufacture was lost when Tamerlane carried 
its maker into Persia — and that beautiful art of inla}'ing wood 
and steel with gold and silver, a kind of mosaic engraving and 




jj^STEISIT 



r^^IE O^ X>_^2vX^.SC"CJ"S. 



sculpture united — called damaskeening, with which boxes, 
bureaus, and swords are ornamented, &c. Saddles and trap- 
pings for horses, and the outfit of caravans, are also furnished 
at Damascus. 

One of the most delightful walks around the city is through 
the 

GATE OF ST. THOMAS, 

(Bat Tuma) and across the bridge over the Abana. One of 
the largest cafes is near this bridge. Night is the time to see a 



AROUND THE WORLD. 225 

cafe in all its glory. Then, hundreds of miniature lamps of 
every form and color, glimmer among the branches of the trees 
and above leaping fountains. The Moslems sit on their 
benches in their easy and picturesque costumes, smoking 
sweet spices, and looking so listless that one might fancy that 
their whole lives had been lulled away like the circling wreaths 
of smoke from their bubbling narghiles. 

Just beyond this bridge is a garden with luscious fruits and 
flowers, bordered on one side by the River Abana, which sends 
off a myriad of miniature canals, that flow with a ripple and 
a gentle murmur along the garden walks. 

A LADY OF ROMANCK. 

Following the street around the walks of this garden we 
come to the palace of a titled English lady, known as Lady 
Digby, whose life has been a peculiar romance. She came to 
see me at the hotel and spoke freely of her experience. She 
was then a Christian, a member of the American church. She 
usually rode into the city on a white ass, a very beautiful and 
rare animal even at Damascus, with soft, silky hair, and large 
brilliant eyes. She was attended by a cavasse of two footmen, 
fully armed. She told me that she was first married at the 
age of sixteen to Lord Ellenboro, who became Viceroy of 
India. She refused to accompany him to India through fear 
that the climate would ruin her complexion and spoil her 
beauty, which, however, she had fortunately retained, even to 
the time of our interview at the age of sixty. They became 
divorced, and she afterwards married a German. Her only 
child by him was killed by the carelessness of the maid, who 
let it fall out of a window. She did not remain long with the 
German, but became the wife of a Frenchman, leaving him for 
an Italian, and the Italian for a Greek; and at that time she 
was the wife of an Arab chief, with whom she had become 
acquainted while on a journey to Palmyra, his bright black 
eyes, handsome face and splendid figure, together with his 
kindness of heart and grateful demeanor, completely winning 
her affections. I have learned that her death occurred since I 
was at Damascus. 

29 



226 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

Just beyond one of the gates of the city are the tombs of 
three of Mohammed's wives, and also that of one of his 
daughters. In the city is found the mausoleum of Saladin, 
the conqueror of the Crusaders in the Holy Land. 

ADVENTURE AT NIOHT. 

Damascus at night presents a romantic and magical appear- 
ance. Desiring to view it by night, I made known my wants 
to a native woman who lived near the hotel where we where 
staying. She said that her brother and herself would accom- 
pany us to a musical entertainment, if I would conform to 
their modes, and allow her to have the arrangement of my 
costume. In the evening I called on her, and after the usual 
salutations, she removed my hat, and taking a white veil — ■ 
which in our country would be simply a very fine cambric 
sheet — -she fastened one end around my head and face, leaving 
only my eyes uncovered, and then wound the remainder tight 
around me down to my slippers, confining my left arm and 
giving me but a limited use of my right. Attiring herself in 
the same manner, we were ready to start. Even then we were 
not so closely veiled as the Moslem women of Damascus must 
be when they go on the streets. They have thick, dark-colored 
veils drawn over the face, so as to conceal entirely the features, 
making it difficult for them to see where they are walking. On 
going out I found that having adopted the costumes of the 
East for the evening, I might not walk beside my husband, 
but must keep at a respectful distance behind him, thus 
indicating woman's inferior position. 

The shops were closed, the gates were shut, and between the 
different streets and sections of the city the lights were out, 
while dogs were lying about by scores. Parties walking out- 
carried their own lanterns. The lights glimmered fitfully in 
the gloom of the streets and bazaars. 

In the cafes, brilliant with lights and fountains, were seen 
groups of turbaned heads, with the damask robes and bubbling 
narghiles, while an orator dreamily recited some wild Oriental 
tale. Anon, strains of music fell in wonderful cadence upon 



AROUND THE WORLD. 227 

the ear, and the senses were lulled by the heavy odor of spicy 
groves and the perfume of flowers. 

My companion took me to a private entrance, and we passed 
through the spacious and elegant halls to a broad latticed 
casement, where we had a good view of the fairy-like scene, 
while we ourselves were hidden from sight — as is the custom in 
the East — -behind the ornamental screen in the window. 



228 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



CHAPTER X. 

Leaving Damascus — Ruins of Baalbec — Temples of Baalbec 
— Modern Town of Baalbec — Poem — Baalbec to Beirut 
— Lebanon Mountains — Splendid Bouquet — Beirut — 
Harems in Beirut — Effendi's Servants — Luxuries of 
Harem Life — Jealousies Among the Harem Wives — 
Women Excluded From Heaven — Plurality of Wives 
and Strange Customs — Bad Fitting Garments — Early 
Marriages and Superstitious Ignorance — Reflections. 

While we were at Damascus the cholera broke out, and in a 
few weeks seventeen thousand people had fallen in death by 
this terrible scourge. We decided to leave the city, but the 
only public conveyance from Damascus is the diligence to 
Beirut. A heavy rain and hail-storm had greatly damaged 
the road, and the bridge over the Abana was carried away. 
The diligence was delayed several days. In the meantime, 
the people, fleeing from the plague, rushed to the office and 
engaged all the chances for conveyance for weeks to come. 
The Jews went to Safed, leaving the city in a great procession 
on horses, camels, mules, and donkeys; while many, even the 
aged, made the journey on foot. From one of the government 
officers we obtained horses to go to Baalbec, a distance of 
forty-five miles. The road passes through the most charming 
and wonderful scenery in Syria. For miles it runs along the 
river Abana, with its cascades, ciystal waters, green valleys, 
and forests of oak trees. We passed the gorge of the Barods, 
so well known in art, where the river has cut its way through 
stupendous mountains with bold and overhanging cliffs. 

In many of the towns the avenues are lined with Lombardy 
poplars, and the gardens are hedged around with white rose- 
bushes, at that time in full bloom. Between the Lebanon and 
the Anti-Lebanon Mountains is the valley of Behar, through 
which was the great highway from Babvlon and BaaJbec to 



AROUND THE WORLD. 229 

the coast. The road is still broad and good; the valley 
abounds in shady groves, fountains, streams and luxuriant 
vegetation. From afar may be seen the stupendous 

RUINS OF BAALBEC. 

These are grand monuments of the mystic ages. So vast 
and so exquisite in design and sculpture are these ruins, that 
we scarcely wonder at the superstition of the nations who 
believed that masses so mighty were never transported and 
upreared by human hands, but that they were built by genii 
under the direction of King Solomon. Tadmor, or Palmyra, 
was in fact built by Solomon, and some historians believe that 
the Temples of Baalbec were also built by him for his 
Egyptian wife ; — but it seems highly probable that they were 
erected to be used for heathen temples. 

About a mile west is the quarry from whence the stone was 
taken for the building of the temples. It is coarse, red 




3TOUE XLT ■X'STB QT^ABaBS^Z" AT BAALBEC. 



granite. One stone, hewn all around with the exception of 
about one foot, still remains in its native bed. It is sixty-nine 
feet long, seventeen feet wide, and fourteen feet deep. 



230 



TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 




T^3^E^=XjE .A.T rB^-^ZjiEISC 



AROUND THE WOULD, 281 

e 

THE TEMPLES OF BAALBEC 

Stand upon an artificial platform raised thirty feet above the 
plain, having immense vaults underneath, which are now 
occupied by silk spinners. There we stopped and left our 
horses, and walked through and examined all the ruins, which 
exceed in extent those of ancient Rome. The style of the 
foundation walls is similir to that of Solomon's Temple at 
Jerusalem. The ruins of three temples are still to be seen on 
the platform, the Temple of the Sun, the Temple of Jupiter, 
and the Circular Temple. The Temple of the Sun, or Great 
Temple, was two hundred and ninety feet long, by one 
hundred and sixty broad, surrounded by Corinthian columns, 
seventy-five feet in height, and seven feet in diameter at the 
base. Including the entablature, these columns measure 
ninety feet in aUitude. The Temple of Jupiter is the most 
perfect ruin in Syria. 

Near the Great Temple, on the banks of a stream, is a 
beautiful kiosk in a state of perfect preservation. By this we 
were about to take our dinner, when a gentleman from the 
town, a native Syrian dentist, seeing us, came and invited us 
to his house, where a meal was spread for us, and mats 
prepared for us to rest upon until vve were ready to continue 
our journey toward the close of the day. 

THE MODERN TOWN OF BAALBEC 

Has about five thousand inhabitants, and a large missionary 
station. The distance to Beirut is forty-eight miles. 
By the road-side near the former place is an ancient tomb 
with granite columns, and a sarcophagus as bright and 
as perfectly polished as though just completed, yet history 
fails to trace its origin. This place must have once been a 
splendid and wealthy city. Strabo, Pliny, Josephus and 
Ptolemy call it Heliopolis — city of the sun. It would seem 
that it must have been for ages the head-center of Baal-worship 
for those regions. 

We insert some stanzas descriptive of the ruins of Baalbec, 
valuable more perhaps for the exactness of their statements 
than for their superior literary merit. 



232 TEN YEARS 7 TRAVEL 



RUINS OF BAALBEC 

Where Lebanon in glory rears 

Her cedars to the sky, 
Baalbec, amid the sand appears 

To catch the curious eye ; 
And 'mid her giant walks of old 
The wild goat seeks a quiet fold . 

No pen has traced thine ancient state, 

No poet sung thy pride, 
But yet we know that thou wert great 

O'er all the world beside ; 
Thy lofty colum: s proudly stand, 
Lone relics of a giant's hand. 

But say, who built thee up, thou queen ? 

Did Solomon the great? 
Did Sheba's lovely mistress 1 ean 

On yonder parapet. 
And listen to the tinkling sound 
Of Judah's daughters dancing round ? 

The Saracenic prophets taugnt, 

Amid their caverned halls, 
That demons and that genii wrought 

Thine everlasting walls ; 
That Solomon designed the plan, 
And they built up what he began. 

Bethhoron and the cities vast, 

That towered in Palestine 
Have crumbled into dust at last, 

But still thy glories shine. 
Six pillars rear their capitals 
An hundred feet above thy walls. 

And fresh as from the sculptor's hand, 

The carving now appears ; 
The leaves of the acanthus stand 

The test of countless years ; 
In grand corinthian order they 
First catch the morning's purple ray. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 233 

Three eras speak thy ruined piles, — 

The first in doubt concealed ; 
The second, when, amid thy files, 

The Roman clarion pealed ; 
The third when Saracenic powers 
Raised high the Caliph's massy towers. 

But, ah ! thy walls, thy giant walls, 

Who laid them in the sand ? 
Belief turns pale, and fancy falls 

Before a work so grand ; 
And well might heat len seers declare 
That fallen angels labored there. 

No, not in Egypt's ruined land, 

Nor 'mid the Grecian isles, 
Tower monuments so vast, so grand, 

As Baalbec's early piles ; 
Baalbec, thou city of the sun, 
Why art thou silent, mighty one ? 

A traveler roams amid thy rocks, 

And searches after light; 
So searched the Romans and the Turks, 

But all was hid in night ; 
Phenicians reared thy pillars tall, 
But did the genii build thy wall ? 

BAALBEC TO BEIRUT. 

The first night on the way to Beirut, we stopped at a native 
town, in the house of a wealthy Arab. 

I had here and elsewhere an opportunity to observe many 
things of interest in the domestic habits common in Syria. 
They use neither beds nor chairs, but mats are spread on the 
floor on which to sleep, and cushions and divans are used 
instead of chairs. They use unleavened bread, made into 
large thin cakes. The women disfigure their faces and arms 
by tattooing, which they consider highly ornamental. 

The next day we reached the town of Zaleh, in the Lebanon 
mountains. This is a Christian city of five thousand inhab- 
itants. We were invited by the missionaries to remain with 
them two days. While here we visited the mission schools, 
which are large and prosperous. We went also through the 

30 



234 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

vineyards and the orchards which clothe the hills. Silk 
worms are cultivate-:! here. We were taken into the houses 
where they are kept, and saw them in the various stages of 
development, from the cocoons to the worms spinning silk. 

OVER THE LEBANON MOUNTAINS. 

On leaving Zaleh we entered the splendid macadamized road 
which leads from Damascus to Beirut, over the Lebanon 
mountains. From their summit we obtain one of the finest 
views in Syria. Lebanon was the Paradise of the Hebrew 
prophets and poets; it was ever before their eyes. From every 
hill-top in central Palestine, from the Jordan, from Moab, and 
from Bashan, the mountains are seen far away in the northern 
horizon, with their beautiful pale-blue peaks and glittering 
crowns. We passed the cloud-wreathed summits and spent a 
night at Ramdum, a town crowning one of the lofty heights. 
Here Ave were again entertained by the missionaries. 

A SPLENDID BOUQUET. 

The next morning, on starting for Beirut,- our hostess gave 
me a splendid bouquet, which, being made of flowers from 
Lebanon, recalled to my thoughts the beautiful expressions of 
Holy Writ concerning that sacred mountain. How forcibly too 
did it bring to my mind the poetic words of another : "I have 
luxuriated on banks covered with sweet thyme, and in deep 
dells where the myrtle and honeysuckle give forth their odors, 
and in gardens where the damask rose and orange blossom fill 
the air with their perfumes amid the heights of Lebanon." 

Before our arrival quarantine had been established at Beirut; 
but fortunately we escaped detention, coming, as we did, from 
Baalbec, and not direct from Damascus, where the cholera was 



raging. 



BEIRUT. 



Beirut, situated on the Mediterranean Sea, is a beautiful 
place, and one of the most flourishing towns in Syria. The 
old walls have been leveled, and superb villas have been 
erected. The towering mountains, with their terraced sides 
and white walled towns, the plains covered with luxuriant 



AROUND THE WORLD. 235 

gardens, and Beirut itself resting like a gem beside the blue 
waters of the Mediterranean, combine to form a magnificent 
natural phenomenon. 

We spent several days in Beirut, being there on the Fourth 
of July. The christian missions have been very successful at 
this place. A normal school is carried on for the Avork of 
training native girls for teachers. Many of the graduates are 
now engaged in the mission schools in different parts of Syria, 
and meeting with good results. 

HAREMS IN BEIRUT. 

While in Beirut I visited several Harems with one of the 
teachers, who went to read to the women at their homes. One 
afternoon we visited the palace of the Effendi, a Mohammedan 
of high rank. Passing through a long corridor — where, from 
twining vines on archways of leafy green, hung rich clusters 
of grapes — we reached a portal which the guard, with a salaam, 
opened for us, then passing through a fine grass plat, set with 
tropical plants, we arrived at the door of a marble-laid hall, of 
such spacious dimensions that I imagined we were already in 
the drawing-room. We had adapted our costumes to the tastes 
of the inmates of the harem. Our robes were of thin, light- 
colored material, and we wore beautifully embroidered 
Damascus slippers, and had long white worked veils, in 
Syrian style. A portion of the veil was drawn over the hair, 
with one end falling down the back, while the other end was 
brought round in front, and carelessly caught up on the left 
shoulder. We took off our slippers and left them in care of a 
servant. It is not customary in the East to wear shoes or 
sandals in the house; they are always taken off on entering. 
We were met by another attendant, who conducted us to the 
Effendi's wife. She rose, shook hands cordially, and gave us a 
seat by her on the divan. We gave the usual salutations with 
much ceremony, and after a moment's pause — to my surprise — 
she repeated them. In this she was observing Oriental 
etiquette, which allows a repetition to be made by the women, 
who know so little of life outside the harems that they have 
but few topics of conversation. I felt highly privileged during 



236 TEN YEARS 1 TRAVEL 

my travels in having so clear a view of harem life, around 
which hangs so much of mystery and romance in the ideas of 
the Christian world. 

THE EFFENDI'S SERVANTS. 

The Effendi had bought a number of black women slaves 
from Nubia, Avho attended at the call of their mistress. One 
of them brought the narghiles — the Turkish pipes — another 
stood fanning us, the third brought sherbet, the fourth 
pomegranate water, and the fifth served black coffee in little 
cups with silver holders. The slaves stood while serving us. 
with a submissive air, and with their veils, bodice, and short 
skirts of bright colors, they presented a fit type of a rich and 
glowing tableau. 

Special attendants were called to take us through the 
different rooms of the palace, also a man to carry the keys and 
unlock the doors, one woman to give explanation, and another 
to carry our slippers, and to put them on and take them off. 
This is but the ancient custom of having sandal bearers. To 
bind on the sandals, to stoop down and unloose them, and to 
carry them until needed again, was the business of the lowest 
servant. Disciples sometimes performed this office for their 
master, and accounted it an honor ; hence the expression of 
John the Baptist that he was not worthy to loose nor to carry 
the sandals of Jesus. 

LUXURIES OF HAREM LIFE. 

We were taken to examine the luxuriant divans, covered 
with silk from the looms of Damascus. In the center of the 
hall, on round tables, were large, heavy silver plates, and 
handsomely cut glass dishes ; magnificent chandeliers were 
suspended from the ceiling, and mirrors on the wall were set 
in frames of small pieces of different colored glass ; large 
silvered glass globes on other center-tables gave a magical 
reflection of the hall, with its elaborately carved and decorated 
ceiling. From the hall on the second floor there opened a 
fine bay window, which gave an enchanting view of the city 
and the sea. In the halls the family assembled on warm 
evenings to recline upon the divans, smoke, and partake of 



AROUND THE WORLD. 237 

cooling drinks, fruit and coffee. The chambers were furnished 
with spring beds from Paris; but the Arab nature, even in 
those so far accustomed to civilizing influences, could not 
brook such innovations. Yielding to the force of habit, they 
make their beds of mats on the floor, surrounded by mosquito 
curtains. 

We were then conducted to the garden in the rear of the 
house, a quiet retreat, sacred to the women. As we sat on the 
cushioned seats around the fountain, the departing sun threw 
a strange, mysterious radiance over the scene. A rainbow 
played upon the silvery spray as it descended into the marble 
basin ; palms, ferns, oleanders, and fuchsias waved in the soft 
yellow light, while the air was redolent with the perfume of 
orange, jessamine, roses, tropical plants, fruits, and flowers^ 
growing in the greatest profusion and luxuriance. To 
complete this romantic picture of harem life, let imagination 
supply a group of beautiful women, wrapt in white veils, 
leisurely smoking their narghiles on the green grass, under the 
pomegranate trees, which are scattering a shower of crimson 
flowers over the glittering cascade, while others are softly 
wending their way through cactus-hedged avenues, carrying 
myrtle to the white tombs seen among the tall, deep green 
cypress trees on the rising knoll yonder. 

JEALOUSIES AMONG THE HAREM WIVES. 

Our attention may be directed to another group near by, 
casting envious glances towards those reclining by the 
cascade, and conversing in low tones, working out some 
intrigue for alienating the affections of their liege lord from 
some special favorites. This', and even more in the same spot 
a few years ago, was no fancy sketch, but a life picture. Envy 
and malice held undisputed sway in this otherwise charming 
abode. The Effendi's patience being exhausted by incessant 
complaints and altercations, he resolved to end them, which he 
could not effect until he had sent away all his wives except 
the first, of whom we were the guests. The first wife always 
has the preference according to Moslem law. The law of 
divorce is simply the husband's will ; a wife is retained or 
rejected, as suits his caprices — as though his wife, and the 



238 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

mother of his children, were no better than a hireling; even 
worse, for, except her dowry and her jewels, she is sent away 
without wages and without notice. 

WOMEN EXCLUDED FROM HEAVEN. 

With our customs and ideas we can scarcely conceive how 
inferior and degraded woman is regarded by the Moslems. If 
a man is away from home and sends a letter back to his 
family, it is directed to his son, though he be but an infant, 
On no account can it be in the name of a wife. The Koran 
allots one-third of Paradise to well-behaved women, but by 
far the greater number of Mussulmen interpret it their own 
way and exclude their wives from Heaven. They cannot 
discern any fitness of things in the souls of the female, con- 
ceiving them to be superseded by the Houris, black eyed 
beings, watching over them from Paradise, their ideals of 
beauty invested with the charms they love and worship. 

PLURALITY OF WIVES AND STRANGE CUSTOMS. 

In the next harem we visited, there had been three wives, 
but the youngest, disagreeing with the others, had been sent 
to her mother, where she was visited every third day by the 
husband. According to their custom, where there is a 
plurality of wives, no one can have the company of the hus- 
band any two consecutive days. Beginning with the first, he 
makes his visits among them, a day at a time with each one. 
On the day that a wife is to receive his visit, she puts on her 
best suit with her jewels, and perfumes her hair and wreathes 
it with garlands, while the others lie around with the utmost 
negligence and indifference. Even where there is lack of 
harmony in a family, the order of the women not receiving 
visitors together and dining at the same table cannot be 
waived. 

We were conducted into the apartments of the eldest wife 
first, and received by her, the second wife being sent for after- 
wards. They were totally unlike, one a blonde, the other a 
brunette ; it was difficult to imagine how a man loving one and 
making her his life-companion, could select another wholly 
her opposite, and bestow upon her the same sacred rites. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 239 

With these polygamists it would seem that the love faculty is 
not a simple organ, but a conglomerate — something like a box. 
of pills from which a pellet may be administered wherever a 
subject is found morbid enough to receive it. 

The first wife had a married son and two daughters. The 
son and one of the daughters had just been married. They 
were all at home on the day we visited at the place. There 
was a most striking resemblance between the young brides, 
although they w ere only sisters-in-law. This doubtless may 
be accounted for by the fact that the young people never see 
each other until on the occasion of their nuptials, which are 
arranged for by their mothers and sisters. The sister found 
among her associates one possessing almost an exact image of 
herself, whom she selected as her brother's wife. They were 
exceedingly graceful and lovely, their charms being heightened 
by the simple mode of dressing the hair; no chignons or false 
frizzets disfigured their heads; two beautiful heavy braids of 
black hair hung gracefully down upon the shoulders, while 
garlands of jessamine and roses encircled the head. The 
younger sister was not adorned with jewelry or flowers, it 
being the custom to remain in modest simplicity until 
marriage. 

BAD FITTING GARMENTS. 

Some new dresses had just been received. It was amusing 
to see how the tailors, who had not been permitted to see the 
ladies to take the required measures, had indulged their 
individual tastes. One dress, long enough behind, was a foot 
too short in front, while another, which was cut too low in the 
neck behind, was too high in front. The women of the 
harems do not do any sewing themselves, and only a few of 
them have learned to read. They spend the time in dressing 
their hair, talking over their clothes, smoking and dreaming 
away existence. They go out to visit among their friends, but 
in closed carriages and with veils to drop over the face on 
stepping out to go into a house. 

EARLY MARRIAGE AND SUPERSTITIOUS IGNORANCE. 

One of the greatest hindrances to the spread of education 
among the women in the East, is the early age at which mar- 



240 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

riage is entered into. The young bride is often but a child, 
yet. not such as would be found in a corresponding class in 
Christian lands in the West. There, a girl of twelve has but 
begun her development, mentally and physically, but in the 
East her education is completed, and her few acquirements 
have been attained. She may know how to make bread and 
in some instances she can sew, and is familiar with the gossip 
of the harem. Beyond this her mind is a blank, and so is 
that of her grandmother. The only substantial difference is, 
the old woman has more of superstition and prejudice. It 
is only an old child and a young child so far as mind goes; 
and there is no reason for the girl to improve, and no one to 
show her what improvement means, unless the father should 
allow the teachers of the mission to enter his harem. She 
expects one day to be married, and this is the great object and 
desire of her life; and she dreams again and again of the 
festivities on that occasion — the feasting, the jewels, and the 
fine apparel. If some troubles follow and domestic annoyances 
occur, she accepts them as inevitable. In this listless and 
defenseless manner her life passes. The light of the Gospel 
and the spread of Christianity, are the only redeeming influ- 
ences for the women of the East, sunk, as they are, and put 
under the yoke of superstition, bound down by ignorance and 
enslaved by prejudice. 

REFLECTIONS. 

Men often ask the question, "Do travels in the Holy Land 
as it is found at the present time, tend to strengthen and 
confirm faith in the truth and authenticity of the Scriptures 
or otherwise?" For myself I have only to say, let him who 
enjoys the privilege of traversing those " Holy Fields," take 
the Bible in hand (as we did), and read from place to place, 
and from time to time, each reference to the various localities 
of the Holy Land found in the Sacred Book; and so far as they 
can be recognized, conviction will fasten only more and more 
firmly upon the mind that the Bible is a true and authentic 
record, and that its pages were written by men who dwelt 
amid the scenes they describe, and who were familiar with 



AROUND THE WORLD. 241 

that of which they write. No man can thus read and study 
with an impartial mind, who will not, as it seems to me, be 
strongly impressed with the wonderful harmony between the 
" land " and the " Book." 

One modern writer has aptly said (in substance), The 
striking agreement of the statements of Scripture with the 
places, the customs, the habits of Palestine, the marvelous 
harmony of the 'gospel ideal' with the actual facts of the 
country which served as its frame-work, was to me like a 
constant revelation. I had before my eyes a " fifth gospel," a 
" third Testament," torn somewhat and often blotted and blur- 
red, but still plainly and distinctly legible. We need not, as we 
do not, believe the accuracy of all the traditions delivered to 
us by the present dwellers in that ancient land; nevertheless 
the events referred to are veritable facts which once had in 
truth a " real habitation and a name;" and the place of the 
occurrence of each is really in existence at some point or other. 
Adam, Noah, Abraham, Jacob, Moses, Aaron, and Rachel were 
buried somewhere, Paul was standing at some spot near 
Damascus on the road thither when that wondrous light 
struck him with sudden blindness, and whether we can now 
designate these spots by actual present location or not is of 
small moment. Appropriate to this subject, and to that of the 
Christian faith in general, are the words of the learned but 
devout Sir Humphrey Davy: "If I could choose what would 
be most delightful and I believe most useful to me. I would 
prefer a firm religious belief to any other blessing, for it creates 
new hopes when earthly prospects vanish, and throws over 
the decay and destruction of existence upon earth, the most, 
gorgeous of all lights; awakens life in death, and from the very 
corruption and decay, calls up beauty and divinity; it is the 
ladder of ascent to paradise, and, far above all combinations of 
earthly hopes, calls up the most delightful visions of palms 
and amaranths, the gardens of the blest, and the certainty of 
everlasting joy, where the sensualist and the skeptic see only 
gloom, decay, annihilation and despair." 

To many of the readers of these pages it will never be 
granted, doubtless, to view, in bodily presence, the sacre I 
spots thrice hallowed by delightful memories of patriarchs and 

3L 



242 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

prophets and apostles, and by the presence of the Lord 
Himself, the Prince of life and glory ; yet all if they will, may 
reach, nevertheless, that "better country," that is "an 
heavenly," ol which the earthly Canaan can never be more 
than a type, poor and meagre at the best and highest ; all may 
share the glory and the blessedness of the New Jerusalem, the 
"citv that hath foundations, whose maker and builder i» 
God!" 

Thou land of Judea ! thy hills and thy dales 
The feet of Patriarchs and Prophets have trod — 

Angels from heaven to thy shores oft have come ! 
And thou hast been visited by the dear Son of God. 

Thy Sea of the hills, thy Jordan of the plains, 
Thy town of the Nativity — so sacred of yore — 

Thy Mountain of Olives, thy Garden of pains, 
Thy Sorrowful Way where the cross Jesus bore ; 

Thy Mount of Moriah where the Temple once stood, 
And the holy Shekinah, with His glory then shown, 

And Jerusalem of old, so honored of God, 

Are a few of thy treasures in my heart now enthroned. 

But I bid thee farewell ! blest land of these scenes, 
Thrice hallowed spot ! Thou art precious and dear. 

Now I turn from thy seas, thy hills, and thy plains ; 
But in holiest memory thou wilt ever be near. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 243 



FIFTH TOUR-THE LEVANT. 



CHAPTER I 



The Sail From Beirut to Smyrna — Island of Cyprus — 
Island of Rhodes — Statues of Rhodes — Detained by 
Quarantine — The Seven Churches — Smyrna — Ephesus 
— Temple of Dianna — Paul at Ephesus. 

fULY 7, 1875, we sailed from Beirut, en route for Smyrna. 
For many days we had traveled chiefly on horseback, 
much of the time under a burning Syrian sun, and the 
change now experienced from the blazing, torrid heats of the 
land, to the comfort of a sea voyage, was delightful, almost be- 
yond the power of language to express. Our feelings may be 
perhaps most aptly expressed in the language of one of our 
poets : 

" Ha ! like a kind hand on my brow 
Comes this fresh breeze, 
Cooling its dull and feverish glow, 
While through my being seems to flow 
The breath of a new life — the healing of the seas ! 
Good bye to pain and care ! I take 
Mine ease to-day ; 

Here where these sunny waters brf ak 
And ripples this keen breeze, I shake 
All burdens from the heart — all weary thoughts away. 
I draw a freer breath — I seem 
Like all I see ; 

Waves in the sun the white-winged gleam 
Of sea-birds in the slanting beam — 
And far-off sails, which flit before the south wind free. 



244 TEN YEARS 1 TRAVEL 

In listless quietude of mind 

I yield to all 

The change of cloud and wave and wind, 

And passive o'er the flood reclined, 

I wander with the waves, and with them rise and falL 

So when Time's veil shall fall asunder, 

The soul may know 

No fearful change nor sudden wonder, 

Nor sink the weight of mystery under, 

But with the upward rise and with the vastness grow." 

CYPRUS. 

These Avaters on which we were now sailing were to us not 
new, since we had already passed more than once over this great- 
inland sea. This "deep and tossing main," is the same over 
which St. Paul sailed at various times in his marine wander- 
ings upon his several missionary journeys. The third da} T we 
came within sight of the "Gem of the Levant," the famous 
island of Cyprus. At a great distance over the sea could be 
seen the loftiest summit of that lovely isle, Mount Olympus, 
This sea-girt island is supposed to be the native place of 
Barnabas, one of the chief companions of Paul, especially 
during his earlier travels; and it is at Salamis, upon this 
very island of Cyprus, that, so far as the record shows, Paul 
and Barnabas preached the * " Sacred Word " together. Here 
they had the controversy with Elymas, the sorcerer, at whose 
miraculous blindness, Sergius Paulus, the governor of Cyprus, 
was converted to the Christian faith. 

Cypress has a varied history, having been ruled and 
oppressed in turn by many different governments. It is one 
of the largest islands in the Mediterranean, and was in ancient 
times one of the most productive and prosperous. It is still 
fertile and flourishing, and an important center of trade and 
commerce. The celebrated wines of Cyprus are made from 
grapes produced by the vineyards that everywhere cover the 
mountain terraces and spread over the luxuriant valleys. The 
distance from Smyrna to Cyprus is five hundred and fifty 
miles, and from Beirut one hundred and fift} r . The dimen- 
sions of the island are one hundred and fifty miles in length, 
and fifty miles in breadth. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 245 



RHODES. 

In about thirty hours after passing Cyprus we came to the 
harbor of Rhodes. The name of this island is stated to have 
been derived from the somewhat interesting fact that great 
quantities of roses were produced thereon. This, as well as the 
island of Cyprus, being very fertile, is quite flourishing; 
and its numerous products furnish an important addition to 
the busy commerce carried on in the Levant, Rhodes, the 
capital, has two harbors, both strongly fortified, from which it 
rises in the form of an amphitheater. This city is of ancient 
origin, having been founded 408 B. C, and even in those early 
days was very famous for its wealth and beauty, and is still 
remarkable for its classic monuments of Grecian art. 

STATUES OF RHODES. 

At the entrance to one of its ports are even yet to be seen 
the fragments and remains of the gigantic brazen staute, the 
world-renowned Colossus of Rhodes, When standing in its 
perfection, it was one hundred and five feet in height, and 
was reckoned among the seven wonders of the ancient world, 
While the great statue stood guardian of the wealth and 
treasures of the magnificent island capital, the city itself was 
adorned with three thousand other statues, of which one 
hundred were of colossal size. The Colossus was built as a 
statue of Apollo, in honor of the sun, and its erection was 
completed by its architect, Charles of Lyndus, a pupil of 
Lysippus, within the short space of twelve years, 290 B. C. A 
ship could pass between the legs of the statue under full sail, 
and from its summit could- be seen both the shores of Syria 
and sails upon the coast of Egypt. It was shattered by an 
earthquake 224 B. C, and the oracle forbade it to be rebuilt; 
but it stood for several centuries, being finally destroyed by 
the Saracens, A. D. 672. 

Rhodes was one of the places visited by the apostle Paul 
while passing through these seas. Our steamer cast anchor 
here and took on cargo ; but we did not go ashore. From 
thence we sailed for Smyrna, passing in our course in 
view of Patmos, where St. John wrote the book of Revelation 



246 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

while in banishment thither by the Emperor Domitian. The 
brief statement of the aged apostle concerning the matter, is 
greatly affecting : "I, John, who also am your brother, and 
companion in tribulation, and in the kingdom and patience of 
Jesus Christ, was in the isle that is called Patmos, for the word 
of God, and for the testimony of Jesus Christ." How sweet, 
how mild, how gentle! But for the single word "tribulation" 
one could see no trace nor tinge of tribulation therein. 

We came later to Samos ; and there, too, Paul stopped and 
tarried in his journeyings. 

DETAINED BY QUARANTINE. 

As we have already stated, the cholera was prevailing at 
a fearful rate at Damascus, having broken out in a most 
violent manner before our departure, and it had spread more 
or less over the Holy Land ; which fact caused our steamer to 
be placed under quarantine regulations during the voyage. 
Accordingly the passengers for Smyrna were detained at 
Vourla, the quarantine station on the coast, a few miles below 
the city. The vessel cast anchor a few yards from the shore; 
the surf was running high, and the waves were dashing 
furiously around us as we were rowed to the land in a boat 
prepared for the purpose. Here we were placed in a quar- 
antine camp, and put under guard of Turkish soldiers. For 
seven wear}' days and cheerless nights, we made our sojourn at 
this comfortless place under these undesirable circumstances; 
but it was so decreed, and who can resist fate? In some 
respects the surroundings were not unpleasant — the mountains 
on the east, and the blue rolling sea on the west, formed a view 
not destitute of natural beauty, but these natural barriers, and 
the cordon of Turkish guards hemmed us in from all the 
world besides. When tired of the other surroundings, we 
busied our eyes in scanning the appearance and the costumes 
of the Turkish garrison who had charge of the quarantine, as 
they walked leisurely to and fro, decorated with yellow badges, 
and armed with glittering rifles and gleaming bayonets, 
grimly keeping watch over the luckless group of passengers 
who would have spared them the trouble! But times and 



AROUND THE WORLD. 247 

seasons have their end as well as their beginning, and so did 
our quarantine come to an end at last, and that company of 
happy, thankful passengers re-embarked upon their steamer 
for the port of Smyrna. 

THE SEVEN CHURCHES. 

At Smyrna we were in the region alluded to in L Cor. xvi.: 
19, " The churches of Asia salute you." Paul labored much 
in these parts, spending some years at Ephesus, as well as 
much time throughout the entire region. The apostle John 
spent years of his later life at Ephesus as the beloved bishop 
of that large and flourishing church ; and after he was banished 
to Patmos in exile, his soul still clung to that circle of congre- 
gations in Asia; and he was directed to send his messages of 
love and reproof and warning to the " Seven Churches." 

The places of their location were Ephesus, Smyrna, Perga- 
mos, Thyatira, Sardis, Philadelphia, and Laodicea, all large 
and important cities in the apostolic times. But now, except 
Smyrna and Philadelphia, they are almost wholly in ruins, 
and the churches once so flourishing have no existence, except 
in the places last named, and not much more than a nominal 
existence even there. A few Christians, chiefly of the Greek 
faith, are still to be found in Smyrna, and also a church of 
some size at Philadelphia; but Ephesus, and Sardis, and 
Thyatira, and Pergamos, and Laodicea, alas! like Babylon, 
"are fallen, are fallen 1" 

To us who know only life and activity in the towns of our 
native land, the utter decay and remediless ruin which have 
crumbled those eastern cities by hundreds into the desolation 
of a bleak and dreary wilderness, seem wholly incredible. 
Yet there they are. And such towns are scattered well nigh 
everywhere over the habitable globe. The remnants of ancient 
ruined civilization show that in many respects the "ancients" 
almost immeasurably surpassed the boasted 'moderns;" and 
the nations of the present day can show nothing equal to what 
the ruins of the "old, old days" bring before our eyes! How 
strikingly applicable are the stirring words of the poet, 
descriptive of the great ruins of the world : 



248 



TEN YEARS 7 TRAVEL 



" These ages have no memory ; but they left 

A record in the desert ; columns strewn 
On the waste sands : statues fallen and cleft, 

Heaped like a host in battle overthrown ; 
Vast ruins where the mountain's ribs of stone 

Were hewn into a city ; streets that spread 
In the dark earth where never breath has blown 

Of heaven's sweet air, nor foot of man dares tread 

The long and perilous ways, the cities of the dead 1 " 

SMYRNA. 

Smyrna was promised by the Savior, in the address to her 
as one of the "Seven Churches," a "crown of life." This she 
still possesses, certainly in business activity and worldly pros- 
perity if not otherwise. The city has a population of from one 
hundred and thirty to two hundred thousand people, and it is 
the most flourishing city in the Levant. 




Our illustration shows the town as it lies between the bay 
and the mountain. The city contains Armenian, Greek, and 
Catholic churches, and about twenty Mohammedan mosques, 
above which latter rise the tall minarets, surrounded by their 
galleries, from which, five times a day, the muezzin's call is 
heard, warning the Moslems of the hour of prayer. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 249 

Like other Oriental cities, Smyrna has narrow, crooked 
streets, which, moreover, are uneven and roughly paved. 
Business is carried on chiefly in the bazaars — covered streets 
with open shops on each side. Smyrna has been rebuilt 
several times. Since the year 736 B. C. this is at least the 
third city of the same name that has stood within three miles 
of its present site. On the mountain which lies back of the 
place, are to be found the remains of one of the former towns, 
and the walls of the citadel that belonged thereto. Near by, is 
the place where the aged Polycarp, bishop of the church of 
Smyrna, suffered martyrdom during the persecution under 
Marcus Aurelius, A. D. 169. We spent two weeks at Smyrna, 
at the season of ripe grapes and figs, for which, especially the 
latter, it is more celebrated than any other place in the East. 

E P H E S U S. 

From Smyrna, Ephesus is distant forty-eight miles by the 
railway. The route lies through a rocky, mountainous region, 
with fertile valleys cultivated in rich tropical fruits. Ephesus, 
so noted in ancient times, has dwindled to a small Turkish 
village. Leaving the railway station, we cross a plain a mile 
in width to reach the site of the ancient city, which is now 
covered with a wilderness of ruins. In a space six hundred 
and. eighty-seven feet long, are the fragments of a great theater, 
and of various walls and towers belonging to the Greek, Roman 
and Byzantine eras. Since A. D. 1866, excavations have been 
made in the western part of the town to the depth of eighteen 
feet, which have revealed the remains of the Temple of Diana. 

This was the largest Greek temple ever constructed. Its 
length was four hundred and twenty-five feet, and its breadth 
two hundred and twenty feet, and the number of its columns 
one hundred and twenty eight, which were sixty feet in height 
and thirty-six of which were carved. But even more won- 
derful than the temple itself, were the numerous statues and 
pictures which it contained, and which were executed by the 
best masters of Greece. This marvelous building was one of 
the seven wonders of the world, and seems to have been rebuilt 
no less than seven times, having been each time destroyed 
by fire; and the present ruins are those of the eighth temple, 



250 



TEN YEARS 1 TRAVEL 



which was the grandest of all. The sixth on the site, erected 
six centuries before Christ, was burned upon the night when 
Socrates drank the fatal hemlock. The seventh was set on fire 
b}^ Herostratus, on the night of the birth of Alexander the 




IT E 2x£ B 31. E OB 



Great, B. C. 356. The eighth was standing in unrivaled 
splendor when Paul preached the Gospel beneath its shadows, 
and its remains still exist. It was larger than the Parthenon 
at Athens, or the Temple of the Sun at Baalbec. 



F>AUL AT EPHESUS. 



The apostle Paul introduced the Gospel at Ephesus about A, 
D. 54. When he preached the doctrines of salvation by the 
cross to the multitudes in that great city, mobs arose, and with 
howls of indignation and rage, shouted for two hours, "Great 
is Diana of the Ephesians." Diana was the tutelary divinity 



AROUND THE WORLD. 251 

of Ephesus and of Greece, and all the Grecian states and cities, 
both native and colonial, contributed to its erection. The 
worship of Diana was splendid and georgeous, fully justifying 
the veneration of the populace of Ephesus and their high 
claim for " the great goddess Diana, whom all Asia and the 
world worshippeth." But the worship of Diana is dead, and 
the temple has been a buried ruin ; the cross has been planted 
upon the ruins of the idol temples — and even it has been 
superseded by the crescent ; yet, notwithstanding all, the city 
itself now shows nought except a vast mass of gigantic ruins, 
hardly surpassed upon the face of the globe. 

In the amphitheater of Ephesus, as we infer from the 
Scripture, St. Paul was brought into deadly combat with wild 
beasts by his vile persecutors; for in I. Cor. xv.: 32, he says, 
" If after the manner of men I have fought with beasts at 
Ephesus." Apollos was the companion of Paul, and he also 
preached at Ephesus. St. John made this city his home, and 
the scene of his special missionary labors. Here he died at an 
advanced age, and is supposed to be the only one of the apostles 
who did not meet death by the hand of violence — martyred 
for the sake of their faith and the spread of the Gospel. 



252 TEN YEARS 1 TRAVEL 



CHAPTER II. 

From Smyrna to Greece — Among the '-Isles of the Sea'' 
— Athens and the Acropolis — One Month at Athens — 
Greek Costumes — Opening of Parliament — Mars' Hill — 
Paul at Mars' Hill — Ruined Temples — Parthenon — 
Missionaries— Island of Syria — Sirocco — Three Days in 
Archipelago. 

fT UGFST First, wo sailed from Smyrna on the steamer 
( (A "Tritone" for Greece. We had a delightful voyage 
l^pr across the Aegean Sea and among the islands, called in 
Scripture, the "Isles of the Sea," and "Isles of the Gentiles."' 
[Gen. x.: 5.] Many of these lovely isles are mountainous, 
with tints of gray and brown, approaching to red. Little 
white villages, surrounded by trees, nestle in the valleys or 
border the shore. 

With deep interest we approached the classic shores of 
Greece. Reviewing the history of this wonderful land, the 
names of the heroes of the past and their deeds of chivalry 
came vividly to mind, with those of the poets, the sages, and 
the masters of art who immortalized their country by the 
treasures of their genius. Our steamer was anchored at 
Piraeus, the ancient harbor of Athens. Just before us lay the 
plain of Attica, covered with luxuriant gardens and vineyards, 
abounding with delicious fruits and brilliant with flowers, and 
six miles away the city of Athens. A rocky hill rises abruptly 
from the plain in the midst of the city to the height of one 
hundred and fifty feet, upon the summit of which stands the 
ruins of the Acropolis, or citadel, with it's columns and monu- 
ments dazzling white in the sun light, arched over by a sky of 
clearest blue. 

ONE MONTH AT ATHENS. 

After reaching Athens we soon found a comfortable home on 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



25J 



the main street, which leads from the palace to Piraeus, a 
position which gave us a view of the remains of temples and 
statues whicn once adorned the ancient city, with the Acrop- 
olis rising above us, while the varying scenes of modern life 
passed in review before our vision. Here we remained one 
month, 





The city of Athens owes its celebrity entirely to its ancient 
greatness and the numerous remains of its former works of art* 
The most of the streets are winding and narrow, The prin- 
cipal modern edifice is the palace of the king, which was finish- 
ed in 1843, The finest modern building in Athens is the 
university, built by a Danish architect. King George, and 
Queen Olga were at Athens the most of the time during our 
visit. 

The king is the son of the sovereign of Denmark, and 
brother of the Princess of Wales and the Empress of Russia, 
The Grand Duke Alexis of Russia, cousin of the queen, paid 
them a visit while we were there, and a grand reception was 



254 



TEN YEARS 7 TRAVEL 



given him. On his arrival at the port he was met by the king 
and queen and their attendants. From the railway station to 
the palace, the street through which they passed, and the one 
on which we lived, was brilliantly illuminated, and a banquet 
was given at the palace. 

GREEK COSTUMES. 

It being summer time, the bathing season was at its height. 
Every morning, early the street was thronged with carriages 
rilled with ladies going to the baths, which were on the sea- 
shore. Among them were many with the typical Greek face, 
lustrous black eyes, and long hair. Their charms are height- 
ened by their charming head-dress — the national cap — of a 
bright red color, fitting neatly around the forehead, with the 
top, which has a heavy black silk tassel, dropping down on 
one side of the head and neck. 

The dress of the 
people of Athens 
corresponds with 
that of other Euro- 
pean cities; but oc- 
casionally one gets a 
glimpse of the pictur- 
esque native garb. 
Our engraving gives 
some idea of the hol- 
iday attire of the 
women, although it 
does not show the 
long, pendent na- 
tional cap, or the 
head-dress of silver 
coin, which is often 
the woman's only 
dower. The nation- 
al attire of the men 
is much more varied, 
consisting as it does, 

ATHE1TIA1T OOSTT7ME. Q f 1 QW gh oes f co l_ 

ored leather, with long, pointed, tasseled toes; long white, or 




AROUND THE WORLD. 25S 

blue stockings reaching above the knees, and ending in short 
close fitting breeches; a short skirt, containing many and 
manifold yards of white linen, starched, puffed and pleated in 
a most extraordinary and self-asserting fashion ; above this is a 
red girdle, from which protrudes a whole armory of pistols and 
knives; a short blue or black jacket, richly embroidered, with 
open sleeves, worn over a red waistcoat; a white embroidered 
shirt, and at the top of this a singular array of red fez with 
drooping crown and tassel. 

Another street scene in the morning is the peasants bringing 
produce and fruit to market, in baskets, upon donkeys, or on 
their heads. One of the first sounds that greets the ear is the 
cry staphelia, the modern Greek for grapes; and sieke, figs, by 
the venders of fruit. These delicious products form a large 
proportion of the food of the people, and their expressed juice 
takes the place, to a large extent, of intoxicating beverages. 

OPENING OF PARLIAMENT. 

On August twenty-third we attended the opening exercises 
of the Greek Parliament. It was the first occasion of the kind 
at which the king read his address in the Greek language. It 
appeared quite satisfactory to the people. The great hall of 
the parliament building was crowded with the law makers of 
Greece, and the citizens of rank and influence. 

MARS' HILL, 

A short distance to the west of the Acropolis is Mars' Hill, a 
rocky height, where the celebrated court of the Areopagus (the 
highest judicial court of Athens) was held. The judges were 
taken from the first families in Athens, and appointed for life. 
The tribunal assembled in the night. Before this court 
Socrates was tried. To this place, A. D. 52, Paul was brought 
as "a setter forth of strange gods;" when, boldly standing up, 
he reproved the Athenians for their idolatry. 

We visited Mars' Hill twice. The last time was by moon- 
light, and as we walked about this rocky height we thought of 
the time when the law makers of Greece assembled their 
courts there in the darkness of the night, and of Paul 



256 TEN YEARS 1 TRAVEL 

addressing the "greatly religious" Athenians. We were more 
fortunate than many others who have visited Mars' Hill at 
night, for it is a dreary place, and robbers have often committed 
depredations upon tourists. 

PAUL AT MARS' HILL. 

There are a few events that stand out in the fore ground of 
history, which, though brief as to relation, can never be other 
than memorable. One such is the prayer of John Robinson, 
the pastor of the Plymouth Brethren on the shores of Ley den. 
Another is the stern old reformer, John Knox, on his knees 





struggling with God and crying, " Give me Scotland or I die." 
Another still, is Luther before the Diet at Worms, calmly 
confronting at once the German Empire aud the Papal See, 
both then perhaps at their acme of power, and declaring, 
"Here I stand— so I believe — if I can be convinced by Holy 
Scripture that I am in error, I will cheerfully recant ; but until 
that can be done, this is my faith, I can do no more, so help 
me God ! " 

Another of these historic scenes is found in the case of Paul 
on Mars Hill, before the court of the Areopagus. Paul said 
not very far from this time, in his epistle to the Romans : 



AROUND THE WORLD. 257 

" I am not ashamed of the Gospel of Christ for it is the power 
of God unto Salvation to every one that believeth. I am 
debtor both to the Greeks and to the Barbarians, both to the 
wise and to the unwise ; so as much as in me is, I am ready to 
preach the gospel to you that are at Rome also." And boldly, 
nobly did he discharge the debt which he owed to the Greeks 
and to the " foreigners." And here, at Athens, he stood before 
the assembled wisdom of the chief seat of Grecian learning and 
told the story of the Cross. It was the new philosophy 
against the old, and though, at first, little apparent impression 
would seem to have been made, and though, for years, 
perhaps even for centuries, the heathen idolatry still held sway, 
yet in the end, the new faith carried the day; and for long 
ages, heathenism in Athens and in Greece has pertained 
simply to the crumbling ruins of her ancient glory. 

It would appear from the record in the Acts that Paul, 
stirred up by the excessive idolatry of the place, began to 
dispute with the Jews and the devotees in the market-places, 
and at length, that he encountered some of the Epicurean 
philosophers and the Stoics; and as a result, they took him to 
the court or assembly of the Areopagus, and in presence of 
that august assembly he preached to them the God who to 
them had been unknown, and with the knowledge of the God 
of glory, the Creator and Governor of all, he preached " Jesus 
and the resurrection." 

RUINED TEMPLES. 

At different times we visited the Acropolis, that wonder of 
'magnificence among the natives of Greece. To wander there 
and behold how the perfection of human art in its grandest 
forms has been lavished upon the structures erected thousands 
of years ago upon that famous summit, it seems incredible that 
the whole mass of magnificence and splendor should have 
fallen to what we now find it to be — ruin, desolation, utter 
blank — a pile of useless and barren rocks and nothing more! 
yet there they are — and there they have been for ages past, 
with the remorseless tooth of time gnawing, ever gnawing 
their beauty and their substance away ! The temples ®f the 
Acropolis were once the pride of Greece, the perfection and 

33 



258 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

triumph of art, and the admiration and envy of the world! 
This wonderful structure served the purpose of a fortress, a 
sacred shrine, and a museum for the preservation of the 
treasures of art. The entrance to the Acropolis, called the 
Propylrea, was a grand gateway with rows of columns of the 
Doric order. 

The chief temple of the Acropolis was the Parthenon. It 
was built during the magistracy of Pericles, 436 B. C. Its 
walls were surrounded by white marble columns thirty-four 
feet high. Within the temple stood the colossal statue of the 
goddess Minerva the tutelary divinity of the Athenians. It 
stood full sixty feet in height, being covered with ivory and 
gold. 

There were, besides the Parthenon, seven other temples 
within the Acropolis, all of which, however, except some 
broken columns, have disappeared. 

When the Acropolis, with its temples of marble of the purest 
white stood in all their splendor, with the gorgeous sky of 
Greece overhead, surrounded with the purple-tinted hills 
clothed in the richest verdure, with the city lying in its 
matchless splendor on the plain, and the luxuriant vineyards 
below, the scene presented by all this must have been one of 
surpassing grandeur. Such a scene might well have made the 
intelligent and highly cultured Greeks, the dwellers in that 
city, exclaim, " Truly we are the offspring of the immortal 
Gods." 

The temple of Theseus, the relics of which stand near the 
foot of the hill between the Acropolis and the city, is a beau- 
tiful and well preserved ruin. The temple of Jupiter Olympus 
was one of the largest and most magnificent anywhere to be 
found. The peristyle was formed of immense Corinthian 
columns of white marble, only sixteen of which now remain. 
Upon the portal of this temple was inscribed in capital letters 
inlaid with gold, the immortal maxim, " Know thyself," 
which, in fact, the ancient Athenians held to be important 
enough to be transmitted to later ages in so notable a manner. 

In Greece, no matter where our feet may tread, we are upon 
sacred classic ground. We live in the memories of the past 
as we trace the momentous events of historv in the ruins we 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



259 




260 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

behold on every hand. The mighty past rises before us at 
every step. 

" Where'er we tread, 'tis haunted, holy ground, 

No earth of thine is lost in vulgar mould ; 
But one vast realm of wonder spreads around, 

And all the Muses' tales seem truly told — 
Till the senses ache with gazing to behold 

The scenes our earliest dreams have dwelt upon : 
Each hill and dale, each deepening glen and hold 

Defies the power which crushed the temples gone, 

Age shakes old Athens' towers, but spares gray Marathon." 

MISSIONARIES. 

At Athens I met several missionaries from America who 
were devoting their lives to the good work. There was the 
late Rev. J. Hill and Mrs. Hill, and a lady who was sent out 
by the New York Board of Foreign Missions, and Mrs. King, 
the wife of Dr. King who so nobly contended with the Greek 
priests for the right to have the Protestant Bible read in the 
schools. In one instance in pursuing him, the guards raised 
their rifles to fire upon him; but having the American flag 
with him, he hastily wrapped it round his person and 
exclaimed, " Now, fire if you dare I " after which they left him 
unmolested. 

ISLAND OF SYR A. 

August thirty-first we went on the steam-boat to Syra, a 
large commercial port on the route from Constantinople to 
Alexandria, and about twelve hours by steamer from Piraeus, 
the port of Athens. We arrived at Syra early in the morning 
of the next day. The docks were thronged with small boats 
from the adjacent islands, laden with the rich fruits of that 
genial climate. There were also boats with fish and beautiful 
bright colored shells, in great variety and abundance. The 
town of Syra is built upon the mountain side. The white 
houses rising upon the mountain give the effect of a grand 
pyramid. We walked up to some of the higher streets, from 
which we had a charming view of the town and the island 
bordered by the blue sea, which is dotted with islands large 
and small, as far as the vision can reach. It was a bright, clear 



AROUND THE WORLD. 281 

day, by which is meant, anywhere in the East in the summer 
time, a perfectly clear sky of a very light azure, not a cloud to 
be seen above the horizon* Rain does not fall for several 
successive months, the grass is dried up and crushed under 
our feet, and the ground is cracked and fissured, 

THE SI ROGCO . 

During our tour in the Levant, hot winds frequently 
prevailed, which completely parched the leaves of the trees 
and their foliage until they looked as if scorched by fire» 
This hot wind is called Sirocco, or Simoon in the sandy 
deserts of Africa and Western Asia. The natural causes of it 
are about as follows : owing to the great power of the sun's 
rays, the extreme dryness of the air, and the non-conducting 
properties of the sand, the surface, to the depth of a few inches, 
becomes intensely hot. The air resting upon this hot sand 
becomes also highly heated; thus giving rise to ascending 
currents. The cool air then rushes in from all directions to fill 
the vacancy, and these different currents meeting, cyclones, or 
whirling masses of air are formed, which are swept onward by 
the wind prevailing at the time. It is the parching dryness 
of this wind, its glowing heat, and its choking dust, more than 
any^'poisonous qualities it possesses, that makes it so destructive 
to animal life. 

The approach of the Simoon is indicated by a thin haze 
along the horizon, which rapidly becomes denser, and then 
overspreads the whole sky k Fierce gusts of wind follow, 
accompanied by clouds of red and burning sand, which present 
the appearance of huge columns of dust whirling onward ; and 
vast mounds of sand are quickly moved from place to place by 
the terrible force of the tempest. Large caravans are often 
buried under these mounds of sand, and many lives are lost, 
and even great armies have been overwhelmed by them ; in 
fact it is supposed that Sennacherib's army was destroyed in 
this way. The Simoon generally lasts from six to twelve 
hours, and sometimes much longer. It often passes over the 
Mediterranean Sea to the shores of Spain, Italy, Greece, and 
Turkey. And, while it absorbs a great deal of moisture, it is no 



262 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

less destructive to animal and vegetable life, and appears to 
have absorbed with the moisture many poisonous elements. 

STARTING FOR CONSTANTINOPLE. 

September nineteenth, we sailed on an English steamer for 
Constantinople. As we viewed the beautiful islands of the 
sea, and contrasted the present condition of the kingdom of 
Greece with that of her ancient history, we were forcibly 
reminded of the words of the bard : 

" The Isles of Greece, the Isles of Greece, 
i ■ here burning Sappho loved a:id sung, 
Where grew the arts of war and peace, 
Where Delos rose and Phoebus sprung; 
Eternal summer gilds them yet, 
But all except their sun is set. 

A king sat on the rock}' brow 

Which looks o'er sea-born Salamis: 
His ships by thousands lay below, 
And men and nations all were his. 

He counted them at break of day; 
And at the sun set where were they ? 

And where are they ? and where art thou 

My country? On thy voiceless shore, 
The heroic lay is tuneless now — 
And heroic bosom beats no more 1 

And must thy lyre, so long divine. 
Degenerate into hands like mine? 

'Tis something in the dearth of fame, 

Though linked among a fettered race, 
To feel at least a patriot's shame. 
Even as I sing, suffuse my face : 
For what is left the poet here? 
For Greeks a blush — for Greece a tear." 

On the way we passed the island of Mitylene, the ancient 
Lesbos which was visited by St. Paul. Here in a vision he 
was called to Macedonia; here he restored the dead to life : and 
here he left his cloak and parchment of books. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 263 



CHAPTER II L 

Constantinople — Mosque op St. Sophia— The Sultan Going 
to Mosque — Moslem Cemeteries — Women Weeping at 
the Tombs — Crossing the Bosphorus at Night — The Ram- 
adan and Illuminations — Origin of the Crescent — The 
Sultan's Palaces — Visit to the Sultan — The Harems. 

. f%S SEPTEMBER Twenty-first, our voyage Was ended. 
VMJ A second time I visited the wonders of the metropolis 
•^9$ of the Ottoman Empire, and for six weeks made it my 
home. Daily I saw something new in the novel life of the 
various nationalities which constitute the population of 
Constantinople. No city in the world occupies a finer 
natural situation. It is built upon a tongue of land of a 
triangular shape, which lies on the West side of the southern 
entrance to the Bosphorus. 

The Golden Horn is an arm of the sea which branches oft 
from the Bosphorus, and curving around, divides the city in 
the middle. Galata and Pera are on one side of the Bosphorus, 
and the Golden Horn; .Stamboul (ancient Byzantium), is 
upon the other. On the opposite bank of the Bosphorus, on 
the Asiatic side, is Scutari and other suburbs of Constan- 
tinople. 

The city is surrounded by a wall built fifteen centuries ago> 
which formerly had forty-three gates, but at present has only 
seven. One of the places of great interest which we first 
visited was the Mosque of St. Sophia. 

This is one of the most magnificent of the mosques of Con- 
stantinople. It is built in the form of a Greek cross with a 
grand dome and four minarets. It contains some columns 
of the precious marble from the great churches at Athens, 
Ephesus, Baalbec, Jerusalem, Heliopolis and the temples of 



264 



TEN YEARS 7 TRAVEL 



the Nile, Its floor is spread with the richest Persian and 
Turkey carpets, and it bears the inscription, "The Sultan is 
the shadow of God on earth." St. Sophia was formerly a 
Christian church, founded by the Emperor Constantine. It 
was d3stroyed by fire, and was sixteen years in rebuilding. 
When completed, Justinian, under whom the work had been 




MOSQ17 



O^ 1 ST. SC 



executed, entered with the patriarch on Christmas day, 
advanced alone to the pulpit, knelt clown, and exclaimed : 
" Let God be praised who hath esteemed me worthy to com- 
plete such a work. Solomon! I have surpassed thee." 

THE SULTAN GOING TO MOSQUE. 

I saw the late Sultan, Abdul- Aziz, going to this mosque in 
his carriage drawn by four horses, and accompanied by his 
officers in uniform. This was the last time that he was at 
St. Sophia, at the annual festival held at the closing of the 
season of Lent. Afterwards, at different times, I saw him going 
to worship at other mosques. On one occasion he was on horse- 
back, attended by his courtiers. He wore a fez, or Turkish 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



265 



cap, and a dark blue cloth suit richly braided with gold cloth, 
and rode upon a saddle heavily wrought with gold and set 
with precious gems. Sometimes he crossed the Bosphorus in 
his elegant yacht and went to mosque in Scutari. In ancient 
times this place was called Chrysopolis, or the city of gold. It 
was held by the Persians for a number of years, who made it 
the treasure city of Asia Minor. 

MOSLEM CEMETERIES. 

The largest cemetery in the world is in Scutari. The Turks 
prefer to be buried in Asia Minor as it contains their holy 
cities, Mecca and Medina. The Mohammedan cemeteries are, 
when possible, in a cypress grove. The Moslems hold the 
superstition that they must always plant a cypress tree upon 
the event of a birth or a death, to neutralize evil influences. 




HE TOl/XBS. 

It is the custom in the East among the Moslems, during 
several weeks after a funeral, for the women of a bereaved 
family to go early in the morning to weep over the grave. 
Our illustration shows a group of these weeping women at the 
tombs. Whether the sorrow is real or not, still they must 
conform to custom or they will be held in contempt by their 



266 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

friends. So in cold weather or warm, in wind or rain, they 
assemble at the tombs fearing that if they remain at home the 
world will talk about them. Often the relatives of the dead 
do not care to inconvenience themselves in such a manner, 
and they find a way out of the difficulty by hiring women to 
do their service for them. There are women who, if suffi- 
ciently paid, are anxious to give every evidence by eye or 
voice, of the most overwhelming grief. It is not necessary 
that they should know the family at all; money is all that is 
needed to start their tears and tune their voices to lamenta- 
tion. 

CROSSING THE BOSPHORUS AT NIGHT. 

One evening we were in Scutari, and expected to return by 
the steamboat, but being delayed beyond the time of its 
departure, we had to take passage in a caique, or row boat. 
About eighty thousand of these boats are estimated to ply on 
the waters around Constantinople. They are very elegant in 
construction, and glide over the water with great rapidity. 
They must be entered with caution, and the passengers must 
sit in the bottom in the same manner as in an Indian canoe. 

The night was dark and the black waves surged about the 
boat as I took my seat in it, in such a manner that it made 
me recoil. But the voyage was so delightful that a sail in a 
caique on the Bosphorus and the Golden Horn ever after had a 
charm for me. These waters are highly charged with phos- 
phorescence. A luminous pathway marks the course of 
the boat through the water, and the oars rising and falling 
rapidly, gleam with light as though they were set with 
myriads of pearls. 

THE RAMADAN AND ILLUMINATIONS. 

The time of our visit to Constantinople was in October, 
which is the time of the Mohammedan Lent, called the 
Ramadan. This is the ninth month in the Mohammedan 
year. In it Mohammed received his first revelation, and every 
believer is enjoined to keep a strict fast throughout its entire 
course from dawn to sunset. Eating, drinking, smoking, 
bathing, smelling perfumes, and other bodily enjoyments are 



AROUND THE WORLD. 267 

strictly prohibited during that period. At the setting of the 
sun a cannon is fired, when the mosques and coffee houses are 
opened, and the Moslems are at liberty to eat, drink, smoke, or 
engage in the enjoyments of life in the usual way. 

The mosques are illuminated, and their domes and minarets 
rising above the other buildings in the darkness of night, and 
displaying only the brilliant lights, which are arranged in 
elegant designs and showing texts from the Koran, with the 
glittering crescent above, are exceedingly grand and impressive. 

ORIGIN OF THE CRESCENT. 

When Philip of Macedon approached the city by night with 
his troops to scale the walls of Byzantium, the moon shone out 
and discovered his design to the besieged, who repulsed him. 
The crescent was afterwards adopted as the favorite badge of 
this city. When the Turks took Byzantium, they found the 
crescent on every public place, and believing it to possess 
some magical power, they adopted it themselves. 

THE SULTAN'S PALACES. 

Some of the most magnificent buildings in the world are 
the palaces of the Sultan. They are of the whitest marble 
and of most elegant architectural design. They are embowered 
in the rich foliage of luxuriant gardens; their terraced grounds 
and broad steps extend in front down to the blue waters of the 
Bosphorus. The air is refreshed by the breezes from the water, 
and redolent with the perfume of flowers. 

VISIT TO THE SULTAN.* 

" We were received into the chief secretary's room. Upon 
being seated, the pipe-bearers entered, and with bowed heads, 
and with the left hand upon the breast, they presented each of 
us with a chibouque (Turkish pipe). Stepping backward a few 
paces, and dropping on one knee, they lifted the bowl of the 
pipe and placed a golden saucer beneath it. The attendants 
next brought a salver, made of gold and covered with crimson 



* Copied from the notes of one of the United States' Embassadors at 
Constantinople. 



268 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

" cloth gorgeously embroidered, holding a number of tiny 
coffee cups, set in stands for holders, in shape like the egg cups 
at home. The cups were of the choicest porcelain, most 
beautifully enameled, and the holders were of rich filagree gold 
set with turquoise and emerald. 

" I could scarcely realize my position, as I sat upon the divan, 
a cup of priceless value in»one hand and the other holding a 
chibouque, the bowl of which was eight feet distant — a superb 
narghili — a silver vase eighteen inches high, with a flexible 
morocco tube twelve to fifteen feet long wound round with 
silver wire and having a costly amber mouth-piece at the end. 
Before an audience with the Sultan, the chamberlain requested 
me to remove m}^ sword, taking me into a room furnished with 
magnificent chandeliers, rich carpets, costly tables and divans; 
and which was separated from the one in which the Sultan 
was sitting by a gorgeous crimson curtain embroidered and 
fringed with gold. The Sultan was seated on the divan, and 
wore a crimson tarbouch, with golden buttons and blue silk 
tassels." 

HAREMS. 

The word "harem" means sacred — or where no unbidden 
guest can enter. Even in the event of sickness and death no 
man is permitted to be present except the husband. In the 
Seraglio, or old palace, dwells the mother of the Sultan, with 
her numerous retinue; also all of the near relatives of the 
Sultan, forming a court within a court. The Seraglio crowns 
the most eastern of the seven hills of Stamboul, which 
descends gently towards the Sea of Marmora, the mouth of the 
Bosphorus, and the Golden Horn, on the spot anciently 
occupied by the Acropolis of the Byzantium. The grounds 
embrace an area three miles in circumference, shut in by 
massive walls with gates and towers. The outer court is 
entered by the Sublime Porte, a lofty arched gateway, Covered 
with Arabic inscriptions, and guarded by fifty porters. This 
is a monumental quarter, full of memories of splendor and 
light. There is not another spot in Europe whose name alone 
awakens in the mind so strange a confusion of beauty and 
terrible images, so many marvelous histories. It was at once 



AROUND THE WORLD. 269 

a royal palace, a fortress, and a sanctuary; a city within a 
city, inhabited by a people and guarded by an army. Some 
thirty years of neglect have wrought many changes. The 
great fire of 1865 destroyed maii}^ buildings. Hospitals, 
barracks, and military schools have been erected in the 
gardens. The various gates of the walls and the Hall of the 
Divan, are still the same as when occupied by the Council of 
State. And we may enter the famous gate of Felicity, the 
sacred door that remained closed for four centuries to any 
Christian who did not present himself in the name of a king 
or a people. The first building on entering the Felicity Gate 
is the Hall of the Throne. It is surrounded by a beautiful 
marble gallery, with fountains at the doorway and in the 
center of the marble pavement. It is lighted by windows of 
stained glass. The throne is covered with a canopy fringed 
with pearls. The columns are ornamented with arabesques, 
and set with precious stones, and surmounted by four golden 
globes bearing crescents. Coming from the pavilion to the 
throne, we pass through various gardens and courts surrounded 
by small buildings, with marble colonnades and Moorish arches. 
A graceful Saracenic kiosk, with the open peristyle, contained 
the library. Another was the imperial treasury. Near the 
treasury stands the pavilion in which Abdul- Aziz, the late 
Sultan, spent his last days after his fall from the throne. The 
baths comprised thirty-two vast halls, resplendent in marble, 
gold, and colors. Finally there is the Temple of the Relics, 
closed by a door of silver, where everything most sacred to the 
empire was gathered. 

We now take our first view of the harem. Near this retired 
spot, under the shade of the most luxuriant trees, amid the 
murmur of fountains and the songs of birds, rose the harem— 
the home of the women — which was like a separate quarter of 
the imperial city. It was composed of many small white 
buildings, with domes shaded by orange trees and umbrella 
pines, separated by small gardens with walls covered with ivy 
and honeysuckle, and paths laid in bright mosaics of shells 
and pebbles; the whole enclosed, divided, and subdivided; the 
balconies covered, the windows grated, and protected by rose- 
colored blinds and colored glass, and the doors barred with 



270 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

iron. There were the imperial apartments in which resided 
the first four wives of the Sultan, each of whom had her kiosk 7 
her own little court, her officials, her boats, her carriages, her 
eunuchs, her slaves, and her slipper money, which was the 
revenue of a province. 

The harem occupied one thousand luxuriant apartments. 
Near Seraglio Point was the summer harem T a vast semi-circular 
building capable of accommodating five hundred women, with 
gardens and courts and splendid baths. At present the women 
of the Sultan live in the marble palaces on the Bosphorus, 
the most magnificent structures in the world. The favorite 
resort is Dolma Bagtehe, which may be called an imperial city 
instead of a palace. It comprises a series of buildings of a 
great variety of architectural styles, combined with elegant 
effects; an array of snow-white palaces, with ornamental carv- 
ings in marble, so delicate that they look like curtains of lace. 
Long flights of marble steps descend from the gates to the sea. 
Windows, terraces, balconies, and kiosks are all resplendent 
with flowers. The courts are watered by fountains, and are 
fanned by the breezes of the Bosphorus. Such are the royal 
palaces and the harems. 

But what of the women who dwell in these enchanting 
abodes ? Actual fairies, if we are to believe the stories told of 
their beauty. But to inquire into the realities of harem life, 
the Turks tell us that the social condition of their women is 
better than that of ours, and that their society enjoys an 
immunity from the corruption of which European manners 
are accused. So much having been said of the state of slavery 
in which Turkish women are kept, this seems a startling asser- 
tion. A few features of their domestic life may serve as a 
comparison. The Turkish woman has certain legal guarantees 
and privileges conceded her by custom. No man would dare 
to lift his hand against a woman in the public street. A Turk 
is never seen to stop in the streets to speak to a veiled woman, 
though she be his wife. The mother is an object of peculiar 
deference- 



AROUND VME WORLD. 2?i 

Moslem laws of marriage and divorce. 

No man would think for a moment of living on his wife's 
•earnings-. 'The husband at his marriage assigns a dowry to 
his bride, A woman may obtain a divorce if her husband ill- 
treats her. She has only to present her written statement of 
grievances to the tribunal, or go herself to the vizier, by whom 
she is received and listened to kindly and without delay. 
Divorce according to the Koran is a mere matter of caprice, 
especially with the husband. It says a man may divorce his 
wife twice and take her back again, but if he divorces her a 
third time it is not lawful to take her back until she is married 
to another man. A rich Turkish officer once divorced his wife 
three times, and wishing to take her back, hired a poor man 
to marry her for seven hundred piasters (the value of a paister 
is five cents in IL S. money), The man took the wife and 
money, and the next day refused to give her up for less than 
five thousand piasters, which the rich man was obliged to pay v 
as the woman had become the lawful wife of the poor man-. 
The law binds a man to provide clothing and a separate 
apartment for each wife. In her home a woman never sees 
but one man—her husband— ^and lives behind grated windows 
and in cloistered gardens. The Turkish house is divided into 
two parts, the harem and the selamlik-. The selamlih is the part 
reserved for the man, where he lives, works, and receives com- 
pany. The wife never enters it. One single door and a small 
corridor divide the two apartments ; but they are as distant as 
two sepaarate houses. The servants of each part belong only 
to that, and there are two kitchens. The harem generally has 
a garden shut in by high walls clothed with ivy and jasmine; 
above it a terrace; and over the street small projecting rooms 
enclosed with glass and lattice-work. The floors are covered 
with mats and carpets, the ceilings painted with fruits and 
flowers, large divans are around the walls, a marble fountain 
in the middle, and vases with flowers in the windows. The 
conditions of conjugal life vary, greatly, however, according to 
the pecuniary means of the husband. The rich noble lives in 
a separate house from his wife. The middle-class Turk, for 
reasons of economy, lives nearer to his wife, sees her more 



279 



TEN YEARS 7 TRAVEL 



frequently, and is on more familiar terms with her. The poor 
Turk passes the most of his time in company v\ ith his wife. 
In his ease there is little difference between the Turkish and 
Christian household. Riches divide and poverty unites. 
There are also two other kinds of harems: the one in which 
European customs have been adopted, where the ladies have a 
piano, a teacher of French, an artist, a dressmaker, and are 
visited by an European physician ; but in the other harem all is 
Turkish, from the costumes of the women down to the most 
minute household detail. 




"-^f^p^^p^ 



A description of the harems at Constantinople may serve for 
those throughout the East, with the difference that the women 
are under greater restrictions in some countries than in others. 
It is in the harems that we find a vast sea of human life apart 
from the rest of the world — a terra incognita. 

Being a physician, the mystic veil was withdrawn for me. 
I felt the charm and the marvelous fascination of Eastern 



AROUND THE WORLD. 273 

harem life, 1 was welcomed to their homes in my sojourn in 
Oriental lands. At Constantinople, in Palestine, Egypt, India, 
and Java I often found myself seated in a group of from fifty 
to one hundred women, all very eager and attentive to gather 
any information that might be given. 

ORIENTAL DRESS OF WOMEN. 

In ail Mohammedan cities women go ov;t on the the streets 
closely veiled. They conceal their faces so carefully that a 
man would not know his own mother or sister if he met her. 
We may go through large cities in the East and meet 
thousands of people and not see the face of a single woman. 
Our illustration shows the style of veil and mantle worn by 
women. The woman and girl are in the garden of a mosque; 
the veil is removed from the girl to show the style of the home 
costume. In wealthy families the costumes of the women are 
costly and elegant. 



274 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



SIXTH TOUR-EGYPT. 



CHAPTER I. 



Second Voyage to Egypt — Alexandria — Pharos — The Land 
of Egypt — House-tops — People — Antiquities — Pompey's 
Pillar. 

|N November 8, 1875, I took passage on the steamer 
"Khedive" from Constantinople, stopping en route at 
Smyna and Rhodes. Just before reaching the latter 
place a thunder-storm came on with all the wild fury of a 
tempest at sea in tropical regions, and for a time it seemed that 
we could not escape. The vessel had on board a heavy cargo, 
and also carried a multitude of Moslem pilgrims on their way 
to Mecca. 

The after-part of the deck was "railed off," so to speak, into 
a sort of pen, which was hung with canvas, and called the 
" Harem." Into this the Turkish women were crowded like a 
herd of animals, not one of them showing herself during the 
entire voyage of six days. The men were scattered over the 
other portions of the ship, spending their time in smoking 
cooking, and praying. [See page 275.] 

The Turks believe that most of their women have no souls, 
and no inheritance in Heaven, except, indeed, a few of the 
purest and best, who are admitted to a lower sphere in which 
their employment is that of watching over men who are still 
on earth, or of serving such as have entered Paradise. 

It was early in the morning when we anchored in the bay 
and harbor of Alexandia. The sun was pouring forth a flood 
of dazzling light, shedding a halo of glory upon every object, 
clothing even the crumbling ruins with a peculiar radiance. 
In the harbor were anchored steamers and ships which bore 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



275 



the flags of the various nations engaged in commerce with the 
Orient. 



ALEXANDRIA 



The history of the place is remarkable. The spot was 
selected about 332 B. C, by Alexander the Great, for the 
emporium of Egypt, and the capital of the East. The rapid 
growth and wondrous prosperity of the town proved the 




wisdom of his choice. It is a remark, ascribed to Napoleon I., 
that "Alexander rendered himself more illustrious by founding 
Alexandria, and proposing to make it the capital of his empire, 
than by the achievement of his victories." The city is situated 
between Asia and Africa, and within easy reach of Europe and 
India ; and within its ancient harbors the navies of the world 
might have been moored with safety and convenience. On the 
eastern side, the coast is indented by the bay of Aboukir, in 
which Admiral Nelson and his English squadron destroyed 



27C TEN YEARS" TRAVEL 

the French fleet August 1, 1798. The conflict is often alluded 
to as the " Battle of the Nile." As he entered the fight Nelson 
exclaimed "Victory or Westminster Abbey." He won, and 
gained also the peerage. 

PHAROS. 

Out a mile in the sea from old Alexandria, on what was then 
an island, stood Pharos, the most celebrated light-house of 
antiquity, one of the " Seven Wonders of the World," whose 
welcome light hailed and cheered the mariner a hundred miles 
away. This remarkable structure of white marble was erected 
in the days of the Ptolemies, by Scstratus (280 B. C), who, 
pretending to compliment the king, promised to engrave 
Ptolemy's name upon the edifice. But the architect first cut 
his own name deep in the surface of the solid rock, and filled 
the inscription with plaster; after which he engraved in the 
plaster the name of King Ptolemy. The monarch was wholly 
deceived and greatly delighted. But the storms of the sea and 
the tempests of time, little by little, wore away the plaster, 
until, at length, the name of the vain and glorious prince 
disappeared, disclosing that of the skillful architect graven 
deep in the solid and imperishable marble. 

THE LAND OF EGYPT. 

This is the land of wonders. Everything seen here is full of 
meaning and mystery. Egypt is, for us, the mother of history 
and the cradle of science. In the narrative of sacred writ, 
Abraham sojourned in the land of Egypt. In the clays of 
Jacob, Egypt was rich and powerful, and the center of a far- 
reaching and opulent commerce. Joseph was carried into that 
land by the Mideanites 1728 B. C, and Jacob removed thither 
some twenty years later. In 1689 B. C, or forty years after 
Jacob's advent into Egypt, that aged patriarch was laid to rest 
in the land of Canaan, in the cave of Machpelah, which 
Abraham had purchased of the children of Heth for a 
perpetual possession as a burying place. Fifty years later, 
Joseph died ; and after the further lapse of thirty-six years, 
Moses was born. After Moses had spent forty years in the land 
of Egypt, and the same space of time in the tents of Midian, 



AROUND THE WORLD. 277 

the Lord appeared to His chosen servant in the burning bush. 
From that notable event there lapsed fourteen hundred and 
ninety-one years to the time when Jesus was born and lay a 
helpless babe in the manger at Bethlehem. 

These dates seem ancient, as they stretch far back into the 
mystic past; yet even these fail fully to set forth the antiquity 
of Egypt. Its monuments in the valley of the Nile are even 
still more ancient. The great pyramid oi Cheops at Cairo is 
claimed to have been built nineteen hundred years before the 
time of Abraham, and nearly or quite three thousand years 
before the birth of Christ. But we cannot tarry longer amid 
these times of the past. 

Our visit was during the reign of Ishmael Pasha, Khedive of 
Egypt. We must hasten to get on shore, that we may see the 
picturesque scenes and the strange people of the many nation- 
alities, which compose the population of Alexandria. Having 
presented our passports and submitted our baggage to the usual 
examination of the custom-house, we took a carriage and made 
the tour of the cit}''. Although greatly modernized, the town 
still presents many of the peculiar features of Oriental life. 

The Grand Square of Alexandria, with its fountains and 
gardens, and with the palatial residences of the foreign 
embassies, was then shown in all its charms; but alas since 
then it has suffered terribly by the ravages of the late war. 

HOUSES. 

In the native quarter the houses are built with flat roofs, 
latticed windows, and plastered walls. Each story projects 
over the street farther than the one next below, until between 
the tops of the houses, the blue sky shining through becomes 
a mere band of azure. 

In Oriental houses the walls are made quite thick and 
strong, so as to support the roofs, which are quite flat and 
covered with a heavy layer of earth, or strong plaster. In 
places where building stone was good and of easy access, the 
roof was supported by stone arches. The house-top, called the 
terrace, is usually surrounded by two walls. The outer wall is 
built partly over the street, having honey-comb like apertures 
to look through. In some cases a balustrade is used instead 



278 



TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



of a wall. Around the parts of the terrace which overlook the 
inner court, the wall or balustrade is usually displaced by 
lattice work. These always extended above the roof high 
enough to form a protection from falling — indeed among the 
Israelites this was enjoined by the law (Deut. xxii. 8). 




The other wall on the roof, called the parapet, about three 
feet in height, surrounds what is called the Court, This 
court on the house-top is used, much like an American door- 
yard, for various household purposes — for hanging clothes to 
dry, for curing corn, for preparing figs and raisins, and for 
rotting flax and bleaching linen. 

It was on the roof of the house among the bundles of flax, 
that Rahab hid the spies sent out by Joshua. Frequently 
upon the house-top are grown flowers and vines, jessamine, 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



279 



roses, and other plants of that country. As is shown by many 
scriptural references, and by my own observation, it is common 
in the East to pass much time in early mornings and at even- 
ings upon the house-tops. It furnished the most pleasant part 
of the house for retirement and meditation. It is common 
even to spend the night upon the house-tops in summer, fanned 
by cool breezes into more refreshing sleep. 

COSTUMES OF ALEXANDRIA. 

The men wear great turbans or the red tarbouch, with 
loose flowing gowns of brilliant colors, and wide pantaloons, 
fastened by bands at the ankles. They sit upon richly 
cushioned divans, sipping their coffee from tiny porcelain 
cups with beautiful filigree holders. They go about the streets 
on stately camels, or glide nimbly along the alleys upon 





i"- ..." .1 I '.;"•' 




EGTPTIA1T DOH-EET. 



sprightly donkeys, so little that the feet of the riders almost 
touch the ground. The women, clad in costumes equally 
quaint and unique, and closely veiled and wrapped in sheets, 
may be seen in groups shopping in the bazaars and elsewhere. 
The}' are all dressed so nearly alike as to be almost indistin- 



280 



TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



guishable from each other ; and a man might meet hundreds 
of them in the streets and not see a single face. 

ANTIQUITIES OF ALEXANDRIA. 

Alexandria, at the time of our visit, possessed some remark- 
able antiquities. The obelisk, commonly called " Cleopatra's 
Needle," stood on the shore of the Mediterranean, while its 
companion lay near by, deeply buried in the sand. Since 
that date, both these specimens of ancient art have been 
removed from their former position. One is now to be found 





POliPET'S r'XXjXj.A.Ea . 

in the Central Park, New York, and the other is standing 
upon the bank of the Thames in London. History shows 
that these obelisks, named though they have been from the 
famous Egyptian queen, were not erected by her nor 
during her reign; but that they were conve}^ed by Julius Cesar 
from their first location at Heliopolis to adorn his own 



AROUND THE WORLD. 281 

temple, the Caesarium at Alexandria. History also declares 
that the stately and beautiful column known as Pompey's 
Pillar, as shown in the accompanying illustration was erected 
(A. D. 296), to commemorate the siege and capture of Alexan- 
dria during the reign of the Emperor Diocletian, three 
centuries and more after the celebrated old Roman consul and 
general was stabbed to death on the shore of Egypt (B. C. 48). 
Pompey's Pillar stands on an elevation, and can be seen 
for some distance on entering or leaving the harbor. It is a 
magnificent Corinthian column of highly polished granite, 
having a height of ninty-nine feet, including capital and base. 
Originally there was upon its top, a large equestrian statue, 
but that has crumbled away. This noted pillar is, in fact, the 
sole remaining relic of the famous " Serapeum, " — a building 
that was once the envy and admiration of the world. The 
temple, its obelisks, its fountains, its halls, and gigantic pillars 
to be seen afar at sea, its magnificent libraries of seven hundred 
thousand volumes, its glittering display of rare gems and of 
precious metals, its statuary, and the worship of its presiding 
deity — all have passed away forever, leaving " Pompey's Pillar" 
as the only witness of that ancient splendor. 

An Arab cemetery now occupies the site of the old temple, 
and the dust of many generations lies amid broken and 
overturned statues. Not merely Egypt alone but also Eastern 
and Western lands and even remote islands of the sea are full 
of these wonderful relics of departed wealth and grandeur. 
Some of the ruins can be identified by the histories of 
ancient nations and of times long past; but of many, very 
many, of the ruins now extinct, no mortal knows or can tell 
their date or their purpose. To such, scattered far and wide, 
both over the Old World and the New, may fitly be applied 
the impressive lines of the poet : 

" These ages have no memory, but they left 

A record in the desert ; columns strewn 
On the waste sands ; statues fallen and cleft, 

Heaped like a host in battle overthrown. 
Vast ruins where the mountain's ribs of stone 

Were hewn into a city ; streets that spread 
In the dark earth, where never yet has blown 

A breath of heaven's sweet air, nor foot of man does tread 

The long and perilous ways — The Cities of the Dead." 

36 



282 TEN YEARS 7 TRAVEL 



CHAPTER II. 

Modern Alexandria — The Nile — Overflow of the Nile — 
The Delta — Buildings — Customs — Trees — The Khedive. 

•^^' ! W)Or)KRN Alexandria occupies only a part of the site of 
§f$fyjy\\f the old town, being built chiefly on the isthmus, 
^^s^ which joins what was once the classic island of 
Pharos with the main land upon which stood the original city. 
A new town, Ramleh, has sprung up on the site of ancient 
Alexandria, and is a lovely place, fanned with sea breezes 
and luxuriant with gardens, orchards, and groves of date 
pain?. 

One of Ishmael Pasha's new palaces is on the road, from 
Alexandria to Ramleh. In the stables there, we saw some of 
his best Arabian horses, many of them as white as snow, with 
large, brilliant eyes, and velvet ears of a delicate pink tinge. 

Before leaving this famous city, we musi sketch in brief some 
additional items of its history. Few cities have suffered greater 
vicissitudes than Alexandria. Founded by, and named after 
the Macedonian conquerer, as a Greek city (B. C. 332), it 
assumed independence under the Ptolemies; and, after some 
centuries, passed under the dominion of imperial Rome, 
although not fully so until Augustus had made himself 
master of the world. Under the Csesars it attained, perhaps, 
its highest splendor, ranking only second to Rome in opulence, 
and even surpassing that city as a seat of learning. 

As its ancient Pharos was the beacon that lighted all the 
traffic of the Mediterranean to its safe and capacious harbor, so 
it held the torch of science, philosophy and religion for the 
enlightenment of the then civilized world. No city on the 
globe could compare with it in the extent of its libraries, or in 
the number and excellence of its schools, its philosophers, and 
ts theologians. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 283 

As the power of the Cresars declined, the city gradually lost 
its importance. In A. D. 616 it was taken by the Persians, 
and in 640 it was captured by the Saracens, under Amrou. 
That commander describes the city thus : "Alexandria con- 
tains four thousand palaces, four thousand baths, twelve 
thousand dealers in fresh oil, twelve thousand gardeners, forty 
thousand Jews who pay tribute, and four hundred theaters or 
places of amusement." The city was re-taken by the Greeks a 
few years later, and again regained bv the Saracens. Constan- 
tine the Great held it at one time, and in A. D. 868 it was 
taken by the Turks, and since then has remained mostly under 
their power. The city rapidly declined in wealth and import- 
ance; and, by the discovery of America and the route to India 
around the Cape of Good Hope, the channel of commerce was 
turned away from its capacious harbor, perhaps never to 
return. 

THE NILE. 

The distance from Alexandria to Cairo is one hundred and 
fifty miles. The journey is now made by railway in four 
hours, whereas formerly it required three days. A wonderful 
land is Egypt. Its great historian, Herodotus, rightly called it 
"the gift of the Nile." The destiny of the land and of the 
nation dwelling therein is bound up with that of its one river, 
and the river itself is as unique as the country which it has 
created, and which it sustains. 

The Nile! With this name how throng the memories of 
remote ages! What associations are recalled, and over how 
many themes mystery enfolds her rich mantle; but still how 
placidly flows onward this mighty river in the golden sunlight, 
quietly coursing its way, and showing no token of the wonders 
that are wrought by its magic power. 

Fields of ripening grain, belts of verdure, luxuriant gardens, 
and peaceful scenes of domestic life, are among the blessings 
bestowed by this wondrous river upon a desert-girt land, 
which, except for the influence of this stream, would be a 
similar region of burning sands and arid wastes. 

The Nile is without a parallel, either historical or physical. 
For five hundred miles its waters may be seen flowing onward 



284 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

smooth and placid as a lake, and its channel for thirteen 
hundred and fifty miles receives not a tributary, a phenomenon 
unrivaled on the face of the globe. 

OVERFLOW OF THE NILE. 

The annual overflow of this river is one of the greatest 
marvels of physical geography, rising, as it has done, within a 
few hours of the same time, and within a few inches of the 
same height from year to year, since time immemorial. The 
rise of the stream commences June twenty-first,, at the time of 
the summer solstice, and the river begins to overflow its banks 
about the middle of July. August twentieth, the valley 
presents the appearance of an inland sea, dotted over with 
villages and towns. About the autumnal equinox, the waters 
begin to subside; and before the end of November the river, 
before so filled and swollen, is once more within its banks, 
and has fallen to its normal volume. The usual rise at Cairo 
is forty feet. Six feet higher would bring devastation to the 
land ; while six feet lower would cause want and desolation by 
a failure of the crops. Whenever there is any unusually high 
water, thousands of dwellings are swept away leaving only a 
black and naked spot where there had been a flourishing 
village. 

We are told that Ham, the Son of Noah, after the deluge, 
settled in Lower Egypt and undertook to cultivate the soil ; 
but found that, in the driest season, and without a particle of 
rain, the river would rise year by year and sweep away his 
harvests with the certainty of fate. This induced him to retire 
up the Nile. Quitting Lower Egypt, he founded Thebes, 
originally No-Ammon [Amnion's Abode]. But many of his 
descendents remained in Lower Egypt in spite of the annual 
flood, and they found to their delight that, after the water had 
subsided and during the rest of the year, the country was like 
a beautiful garden, and a paradise of fertility. So they resolved 
to defend the land against the ravages of the water, and turn 
even the overflowing flood to their advantage. 

The fact was noticed that the yearby overflow was preceded 
by an annual wind blowing from north to south ; and that this 
wind drove the vapors before it, and gathered them into the 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



.285 



All J i'\ 

Mm " ,,, ' ,, l ' 

I fir : i ^bhfs 

n't ¥&' ' i I ^aPil 





286 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

center of the Continent [Ethiopia, now Nubia, and Abyssinia], 
whence flowed the exhaustless current of the strange and 
mysterious river, and where also fell great and copious rains 
for the constant and ceaseless supply of the fertilizing fluid. 
Desiring to mark the time of the overflow recurring from year 
to year, the observation was speedily made that the beginning 
of the annual rise took place when the sun was in the 
constellation Canis Major, and when a certain star — one of the 
largest and brightest in the entire nocturnal sky — was in 
conjunction with the sunrise. That star then became the 
grand signal of the overflow. Seen just before the opening of 
the dawn, and disappearing in the rising sunlight, it seemed to 
the anxious Egyptians to be simply the beacon light of the 
gkies to warn them of their approaching danger, the rising, 
spreading, flooding river. The people give to this magnificent 
star thus showing itself as a token to them of danger at hand, 
two names. Since it warned them of the peril approaching, 
they called it Tha-aut, the Dog, and also Anubis, the barker 
or monitor. Sometimes it was called the Nile Star, or simply 
Nile, which in Latin is named Sirius. Hence the attention of 
the Egyptians as to the rise of the waters embraced chiefly 
three things — the cessation of the various winds; the return of 
the south wind, which came with the summer; and the rising 
of the Dog Star in conjunction with the sun. The hawk and 
the hoop were the names and the symbols given to these 
two winds so important to the people of Egypt. The hawk 
signifies the north wind, which in the vernal months drives 
the vapors southward before the overflow. The hoop was the 
symbol of the south wind, which promoted the draining of the 
waters, and the coming of which heralded the measuring of 
the land and the sowing of the seed. There seems to have 
been a partly fanciful resemblance which caused the adoption 
of these animals as symbols, as already stated. Naturalists 
observe that the hawk delights in the North ; but that at the 
coming of mild weather and the casting of its feathers it 
makes its way southward whence comes the warm air which 
may perhaps assist the falling of the feathers. In remote 
antiquity, even before Moses, the Arabians, neighbors and 
allies of the Egyptians, had similar notions about the hawk. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 287 

In Job [xxxix.: 26] we find, "Doth the hawk fly by thy 
wisdom and stretch her wings toward the South?" The hoop, 
sometimes called the hoopoo, on the contrary, makes her way 
from South to North. She feeds upon the small worms which 
are hatched in the mud of the Nile. Taking her flight from 
Ethiopia into upper Egypt and from thence down to Memphis, 
she continues to follow the Nile as it retires within its banks, 
quite to the sea. 

THE DELTA. 

Twelve miles north of Cairo is the apex of the Delta. At 
this point the Nile divides into two parts, called the Damietta 
and the Rosetta branches. These empty into the Mediter- 
ranean eighty miles apart, and the whole plain (or Nile valley) 
spreads along the sea-coast one hundred and fifty miles. 
Above the Delta, the river flows through a narrow belt of 
fertile land, seldom more than ten miles wide, and often not 
more than six or seven. The Delta, (which takes the name 
from its triangular shape, like that of the Greek letter of that 
name) is very productive. Its fertility being much increased 
by the system of irrigation adopted by the Khedive, Ishmael 
Pasha. During the months of low water, he employed four 
hundred thousand men on the canals and ditches in that 
region. In many places wheels worked by oxen are used for 
raising water from the river or canals connected with it. For 
greater heights the shadouf, a bucket with a pole, is employed. 
We often see two men standing on opposite sides of the canal 
or ditch, with a large bowl-shaped bucket, with ropes attached 
thereto, which they swing between them. With one move- 
ment the vessel is filled, and with another it is emptied into 
the higher channel leading into the fields. Steam plows and 
other agricultural implements introduced by the Khedive, were 
lying idle, while Egyptian peasants were wearily toiling with 
the Egyptian plow and hoe, such as were used in that ancient 
land, perhaps, three thousand years ago. The people dwell 
mostly in villages, and go forth in groups to till their ground, 
which yields abundantly. The waters of the Nile hold in 
solution a large amount of fertilizing element, which, upon 
the subsidence of the waters, remains upon the surface of the 



288 



TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



soil, covering the fields with a dark, rich, loam}' deposit. Three 
crops are produced during the year, two between December 
and May and one in June or July. The usual crops are rice, 
sugar-cane and tobacco. 

BUILDINGS, CUSTOMS, AND TREES. 

The villages are composed of houses huddled together, of the 
rudest form, being built of sun-dried mud, with roofs either 
flat or conical, like a beehive. The dwellings are mere cells or 
huts, in which chickens, dogs, lambs, and kids are housed with 
the family, while the donkey and the cow will be found 
stabled in the next room. The people have neither beds, 




c&.:e3.o:q tube. 



tables, nor chairs. They sit on the ground, and all eat from 
the same dish. To see one house is to see all ; for all are alike. 
Little clothing is needed, and dates, rice, and sugar cane form 
the chief articles of diet. Nature here, in such respects, is the 



AROUND THE WORLD. 289 

friend of the poor. The temperature at Cairo is commonly 
from fifty-six to sixty degrees Fahrenheit, and seldom falls 
below forty degrees. 

The splendid date palms which stand bordering the Nile, 
are among the rich gifts of nature to this fruitful land, besides 
which, however, the trees of Egypt are indeed few. 

Among them may be mentioned the Carob Tree, the fruit of 
which, though not accounted rich and precious, is yet very 
serviceable, especially to poor people, and also for the lower 
animals. 

It is also found in Cyprus, the Levant, Palestine, and Syria. 
The fruit consists of a pod containing a hard, bitter bean or 
kernel which is thrown away, but the pod itself is good for food, 
and is pleasant to the taste. It has in it a gelatinous substance 
very sweet and j uicy, and cattle and swine, as also the poor 
people, eat them. The pods are longer than a finger, an inch 
broad, and as crooked as a sickle. One traveler says that he 
saw in Cyprus a great mass of these piled up like hills for use 
and for sale. These pods doubtless are the "husks" that the 



m am, ■ "" 

! c j. 




'•Prodigal Son'' desired to eat as he was feeding them to the 
swinein the fields of his employer. 

37 



290 TEN YEARS 1 TRAVEL 



THE KHEDIVE. 



The resources of the country are almost wholly agricultural. 
The peasantry have been oppressed and crushed down by 
taxation — hut since the days of the Pbaraohs, never so much 
as just before the deposition of Ismael Pasha — and for that" 
reason every form of enterprise was very much depressed. A 
tax was levied upon everything, upon all property and on all 
trades and professions and avocations, even down to that of 
donkey boy. Multitudes were arrested for non-payment of 
taxes, being either forced to work on the canals, or sent up the 
Nile into the army, while many aged and infirm persons were 
cast into prison. Parents were dragged from their families, 
leaving helpless children destitute and forsaken. I have seen 
companies of men bound together with chain and ball, and 
sent off to work out their taxes. The Khedive was very 
energetic, and undertook to arouse the activity of the Nation, 
introducing modern methods to the utmost possible extent ; 
but he was also despotic, extravagant and oppressive, and the 
land could not endure the burden of his enterprising tyranny, 
and the yoke at last was thrown off the necks of an over- 
wearied people. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 291 



CHAPTER III. 

Cairo — Bazaars — Return of Pilgrims — Dancing Dervishes 
— A Fearful Ride — Islamism — Revelations to Mohammed 
— Teachings of the Koran — The Green Flag — Propaga- 
tion — The Christian Religion. 

fHE city of Cairo stands on the east bank of the Nile and 
has a population of four hundred thousand. It was 
^ formerly surrounded by a wall, said to have been built 
by the Saracen conqueror, Saladin. This Egyptian metropolis 
presents a lively scene of traffic, affording ample opportunity 
to study Oriental manners and habits. 

From the ancient citadel, or from the terraced house 
tops, the view of Cairo is one of the grandest in the world. 
The city with its numerous carved domes and graceful 
minarets; the gardens of feathery palms on the east, the 
tombs of the Mamelukes toward the west, the pyramids, 
the historic river, the dense verdure of the Delta, the dark- 
green belt terminating at the margin of the yellow sands of 
the desert — all these objects of beauty or grandeur to be seen 
on either hand, fill the eye with perfect delight. 

The city has been largely modernized, old houses have been 
pulled down, elegant residences and splendid hotels have been 
erected, narrow streets have been changed into broad boule- 
vards, and a fine bridge has been made across the Nile; a new 
opera-house has been opened, a charming public garden has 
been established, and an excellent road constructed to the 
pyramids. The city has also been lighted with gas and 
supplied with water. 

These are among the improvements accomplished by the 
Ex-Khedive, who, for good and for evil, stamped himself the 
modern Pharoah. 



292 



TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



mamuk 



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tlr- 




AROUND THE WORLD, 29S 

BAZAARS OF CAIRO. 

For the study of Eastern life we must go into the native 
■quarters and through the bazaars, The houses are built with 
stories overhanging each other, and almost meeting at the top 
■across the narrow streets, nearly excluding both light and air* 
The windows consist of casements of lattice work, so arranged 
that the inmates of the dwellings can see out and know all 
that is going on, while they, themselves, can not be seen. 

The bazaars are among the chief attractions of Cairo, and 
-except those of Damascus, are among the best in the East. 
They are covered streets in which all sorts of merchandise are 
sold, and where the various artisans carry on their respective 
trades, each commodity and each business having its special 
■quarter. The goods are kept in small stalls open in front. 
Upon a piece of carpet the dealer sits cross-legged, while the 
customer stands outside and completes the bargain. When 
not engaged in traffic the merchant reclines on this carpet and 
smokes his pipe. Clad in a picturesque flowing robe, confined 
at the waist by a broad silken girdle, and with a white, or 
bright colored turban on his head, he furnishes a type, at once 
true and satisfactory, of Oriental life. The smaller trades are 
carried on in the shops at which the goods are made. Jewelry, 
embroidery, slippers, tin and copper ware, are manufac- 
tured in plain view, and with tools and appliances of so 
primitive a sort that one is amazed at the excellence of the 
workmanship. But it is the multitudes of people, of all com- 
plexions and all nations, clothed in costumes of the richest 
colors and presenting the most striking contrasts, seen in these 
streets and these marts of business, that awaken the liveliest 
interest, and lead one to cherish the illusion that the scene is 
fanciful and not real — -a gorgeous pageant representing ancient 
transactions instead of the actual realities of every day life in 
this nineteenth century of the Christian era, 

RETURN OF PILGRIMS. 

Our first visit to Cairo was at the time of the great Moham- 
medan festival on the annual return of the pilgrims from 
Mecca. One of the suburbs of the cit}^ was appropriated to 



294 



TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



the purposes of this season of general thanksgiving, and being 
fitted up at the expense of the Khedive, it presented a gorgeous 
and regal scene. A broad avenue, brilliantly illuminated at 
night, led to a village of tents, at which a grand display of fire- 
works was kept up nightly during the entire festival, from 
sunset to mid-night. The tents were rectangular in form, 




:D.^.£Tcx:£Ta- desvisses. 



with fronts wide open and lighted by colored lamps, many of 
them glittering with crystal and gold. The tent cloths were of 
rich and costly materials, wrought in many handsome and 
elaborate designs. These tents were furnished with Brussels 
carpets and Turkish and Arabian mats, with divans and 



AROUND THE WORLD. 295 

sofas covered with crimson damask, and also with marble 
topped tables and easy chairs. We were invited to seats in 
the handsome tent of the Crown Prince, Mehemet Tewfik, 
now Viceroy of Egypt. The exercises of the occasion were 
remarkable. The pilgrims having been seated, the devotions 
began by reading portions of the Koran in concert. After 
some time spent thus, exalted passages were selected by one of 
their number, who led off in singing a phrase in a monotonous 
tone, to which the others responded in the same manner. 
Then rising they ejaculated, all at once, some one of the ninety- 
nine names of their prophet, at the same time bending forward 
and afterwards sidewise, each exercise being repeated for several 
minutes. 

The excitement grew more and more intense, until it was 
ended by what is called the " Dance of the Dervishes," which 
is performed by taking an erect posture with the arms extended, 
the right upwards with the palm open, and the left downward 
and forward, while they continue, whirling round and round 
like a spinning top, until at length they fall prostrate in an 
unconscious state. 

A FEARFUL. RIDE. 

The festival closed at the end of eight days with a remark- 
able scene, showing the deep fanaticism of the sect. Beneath 
the glowing mid-day sun, the people being assembled in great 
multitudes, the guards formed a hollow square within the 
enclosure of the tents. The procession of devotees came with 
sounding of drums and cymbals and horns, being headed by 
the standard-bearers, carrying aloft the banners of the crescent 
and the gilded globes. Men ran and leaped about, holding in 
their hands sabres, which they flourished and pressed upon 
their bodies in such a manner that it seemed impossible that 
they should not be wounded. Darts were also thrust into the 
cheeks and left hanging to the flesh. Five hundred pilgrims 
lay down with their faces to the ground, and were packed by 
the priests as closely as could be done. The sheik then came 
upon a splendid white Arabian charger, with gorgeous trap- 
pings, which, being guided by two men, was made to walk 



296 



TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 






AROUND THE WORLD. 297 

over and upon the prostrate bodies of these fanatical devotees, 
this quivering bridge of human flesh. 

A scene of confusion ensued, after which the multitude 
dispersed. They go through these strange performances to 
increase the belief in their beholders, that a faith sufficiently 
strong in the Prophet and his creed will preserve their bodies 
and their limbs from all injury. 

ISLAMISM. 

The most obstinate barrier to Christianity which exists in 
the Orient is the religion of Mohammed, which binds in 
common faith one hundred and seventy-five million human 
beings, of many kindreds and tongues. Their written gospel is 
the Koran, which they regard with a veneration never equaled. 
It is the pride of the Mohammedan to have the Koran splen- 
didly bound and ornamented in the most elaborate manner. 
Upon the outside cover will be found an inscription of warning, 
" Touch not this holy book, ye unbelievers! " Omens are taken 
from its pages by opening the volume and reading the first 
text which meets the eye. This is called kismeh, or fate. 

Many duties are enjoined upon believers, but none more 
remarkable than the pilgrimage to Mecca. Thither travel each 
year a vast throng of devotees from every part of the Moham- 
medan world. Many of them travel thousands of miles across 
the sandy deserts, subjected to heat and cold, hunger and 
thirst, and the deadly simoon! All this is done — and for 
what? That they may compass the Caaba seven times, kiss 
the black stone, pray devoutly, read the Koran zealously, drink 
of the well Zemzem, and perform the rites enjoined by the 
Moslem laws, and thus gain paradise. The word Koran, like 
our word Bible, means " The Book." It is divided into one 
hundred and twenty-four chapters of unequal length, each 
being headed by an inscription indicating the place at which 
that revelation was made, as "At Mecca," or "At Medina." 
With one exception, each chapter begins, " In the name of the 
Merciful God." 

REVELATIONS TO MOHAMMED. 

The most important revelations are claimed to have been 
made to Mohammed by the angel Gabriel as follows : 

38 



298 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

In the silent night-watches as he lay wrapped in his mantle, 
ke heard a voice calling his name. Uncovering his head, a 
flood of light burst upon his vision of such dazzling and 
intolerable brightness that he fell into a swoon. Regaining his 
senses at length, he beheld an angel in human form approach- 
ing the spot where he lay : who, displaying a silken cloth 
covered with written characters, said " Read ! " "I know not 
how to read." was his reply. "Read!" rejoined the angel ; 
"In the name of the Lord who created all things!" Upon 
this Mohammed felt his soul illumined with celestial light, and 
read what was written on the cloth. 

It contained the decrees of God as afterwards promulgated 
in the Koran. The angel then said to him, " Mohammed, of a 
truth thou art the prophet of God and I am his angel 
Gabriel." 

TEACHINGS OF THE KORAN. 

The Koran enjoins many of the virtues that belong to the 
Christian faith. It proclaims the existence of one God, and a 
belief in a state of future rewards and punishments; a divine 
revelation to Adam, to Noah, Abraham, Moses, and Jesus ; and 
lastly, in complete and perfect form, to Mohammed. The use 
of wine is forbidden by the Koran. Prayer is enjoined as a 
duty of prime importance. The preparation therefor being 
thus prescribed : " Oh true believers, w r hen you prepare your- 
selves to pray, wash your faces, and your hands to the elbows ; 
and rub your heads, and your feet to the ankles." 

Whether in the desert, or in the bazaar, or the crowded street, 
on ship board, or on the steamer's trembling deck, it matters 
not, when the hour of prayer arrives, the faithful Moslem 
prostrates himself with his face toward Mecca, and repeats the 
petitions hallowed by the usages of a thousand years. Where 
there is a mosque, the muezzin appears on the gallery of the 
minaret and proclaims the hour for devotion. The Moslem in 
his prayers first stands erect and raises his hands with palms 
forward until his thumbs touch his ears, exclaiming, " Allah 
hu akbar/" God is great! and repeats mentally a short 
petition. Secondly he brings his hands down and folds them 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



299 



near his girdle, reciting the first chapter of the Koran and two 
or three other passages from the same book. Thirdly, he bends 
forward, placing his hands upon his knees, and repeats three 
times a formula of praise. Fourthly, he exclaims again, 
11 Allah hu ahbar! " God is great ! Fifthly, he drops upon his 
knees and bends forward till his nose and forehead touch the 

ground between his ex- 
tended hands, and re- 
peats the same with 
formulas of praise. 
Sixthly, he rises upon 
his knees with his hands 
on his thighs, and set- 
ting back upon his heels, 
he recites various small 
(petitions, with exclam- 
ations according to habit. 
He has now gone through 
with one regular Rekah, as it is called, which performance he 
repeats two or three times. In this manner the Moslem prays 
five times daily. 

The extreme fanati- 
cism of the Mohamme- 
dan, when called to 
defend his faith, makes 
a " Holy War " trouble- 
some and terrible in the 




liOSLEHS -a.T ZE'ES.&.-SrSEl. 




highest degree. Out of 
the deep Arabian deserts j 
flashed the cruel cimeters 
that came so near enslav- 
ing Christendom! Twice, 
during the past ages, the Moslems ^.rc ^j^j^srizzz. 
flood of Moslem superstition seemed ready to burst upon central 
and western Europe. Once it had rolled over the Pyrenees from 
Spain under the dominion of the Saracens from Africa ; but 
was checked and turned back by the heroism of Charles Martel 
on the plain of Tours (A. D. 732), in the valley of the Loire, 



300 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

in southern France. Again, after the lapse of more than seven 
hundred and fifty additional years, the wave of Moslem 
dominion had swept up the valley of the Danube, and was 
dashing against the walls of Vienna, while Europe stood once 
more aghast in mortal terror ! But John Sobieski, king of 
Poland (hapless country! She deserves a less rigorous fate!) 
brought his legions to the rescue, and annihilated an army of 
two hundred thousand Ottoman Turks (A. D. 1683). 

Since that day the Moslem faith has made no advances upon 
Europe; but its sway over northern and central Africa, 
western and central Asia, and south-eastern Europe is simply 
amazing and portentous. What terrible results might follow 
from the banding together, of even a comparatively small 
portion of the one hundred and seventy-five million semi- 
barbarian and fanatical Islamites once more in battle array, 
with their old-time zeal and cruelty, none can tell. 

THE GREEN FLAG. 

According to the Koran, the Moslem who fails to rally to the 
"unfurling of the green flag" to take up arms in defense of 
his faith, and for its propagation over other lands, is an 
infidel and worthy of death. 

The " green flag," they say, is the banner brought down 
from heaven to the ' prophet ' by the angel Gabriel. It is kept 
in a covering of green taffeta, and enclosed in a case of green 
cloth, and deposited in the Mosque of Ayoub at Constanti- 
nople, within a gold or gilded box. The sacred standard is 
twelve feet high, and the golden ornament, a closed hand 
which surmounts it, contains a copy of the Koran. When 
this holy symbol of their victorious faith is brought forth, it 
is carried in its green cover, and when it takes the field, woe to 
the Moslem who hesitates or refuses to rally beneath its folds ! 
That wondrous banner is to the Moslem, what the Ark of the 
Covenant was to the Israelites in their sojournings, and their 
wanderings, and their wars. 

PROPAGATION. 

The success of Mohammed at first was almost nothing. He 
preached for three years, fresh from the dreams of the cave, 



AROUND THE WORLD. 301 

with imposing person and eloquent tongue and burning zeal; 
and in that time all his toil had secured him just fourteen 
converts. He tried the arts of diplomacy during twelve more 
years, almost without avail. His system was powerless. He 
said to himself, " If the nations are ever to be converted to the 
faith of Islam, some new force must be brought to bear." 
That force was the sword, and to that terrible weapon he 
appealed, and that appeal was not in vain. He sent forth his 
edict as a revelation from Jehovah, " The sword is the key of 
heaven and hell. A drop of blood shed in the cause of God, 
or a night spent in arms, is of more avail than two whole 
months of fasting and prayer. The sins of whosoever falls in 
battle shall be forgiven. At the day of judgment his wounds 
shall be resplendent as vermillion and odoriferous as musk ; 
and the loss of his limbs shall be supplied with the wings of 
angels and of cherubims." Thus linked with the sword, the 
Moslem faith for a time made great conquests, and it still 
retains much of the ground thus gained. Yet how different, 
after all, from the character and progress of the Christian 
religion, which began, not with arms, but with the private toils 
and teachings and blessed religion of Jesus, who died an ignom- 
ineous death upon a Roman cross! His apostles went forth 
amid privations an 1 persecutions and death, the disciples were 
scattered, imprisoned, tortured, and slain. The Roman Empire 
for centuries shuddered at the fearful agonies inflicted upon 
the despised followers of the crucified Nazarene. Yet the 
proscribed and persecuted religion grew and flourished and 
prevailed. In a single season of persecution under the cruel 
Emperor Diocletian, it is recorded that one hundred and eleven 
thousand Christians perished as martyrs to their faith. But, 
though beset by mortal foes on every hand, the faith of Jesus 
Christ has survived, has become potent and resistless, because 
it is "the truth," the "Word of God," which, as the apostle 
Paul declares, is living and powerful, and sharper than any 
two edged sword, piercing even to the dividing asunder of soul 
and spirit, and of the joints and marrow; and is a discerner 
of the thoughts and intents of the heart. " They that take 
the sword shall perish with the sword." And this grave and 



302 TEN YEARS 7 TRAVEL 

solemn truth may yet be fulfilled in the future history of 
Islam. 

From the day when the crescent waved before the gates of 
Vienna, the splendor and glory of the Moslem has been on the 
wane, and for lo! these many years the Turk in Europe has 
been the "sick man nigh unto death." Let us be thankful 
that while the crescent pales and wanes; the Cross brightens 
and triumphs. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



m 



CHAPTER IV. 

Mosques of Cairo — Citadel — Mamelukes — Pilgrims to 
Mecca— Strange Funeral Customs — Wedding Peculiar' 
ities— Schools — Drives in Cairo — Royal Palaces. 



n 



ff HE finest edifices in Cairo are the mosques, of which 
$ there are at least five hundred, with their handsome 
i^jp domes and minarets, - which tower above all other 
buildings. These minarets are circular in form, having a 
gilded crescent at the top, and are surrounded by two or three 
galleries. The walls of the mosques are built around an open 
court. The interior, or the side facing the court, consists of 
pillars, arches, or small domes. 

The east side, that 
towards Mecca, has 
several recesses, or 
shallow naves, more 
adorned than the 
other parts of the 
building in which 
the worshipers en- 
gage in their devo- 
tions. A mosque 
has neither chairs 
nor pews, nor altar } 
nor musical instru- 
ments. 

THE CITADEL. 

On a lofty em- 
inence overlooking 

MOSLEMS .A.T PEATEE. . ° 

the city, is situated 
the citadel, which contains the magnificent mosque of 




304 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

Mehemet Ali, which is unsurpassed, in the number and the 
beauty of its columns of oriental alibaster. The ornamental 
capitals supporting the arches, as also nearly the whole of the 
interior, is of the same precious material. Before entering the 
mosque, the visitor is required to remove his shoes or to draw 
cloth covers over them. Having complied with this venerable 
custom, we were allowed to enter and take a view of the inner 
portions of this wondrous structure, grand and majestic ; yet 
invested with an air of ethereal grace and beaut}'. The tomb 
of Mehemet Ali, which is in this mosque, is resplendent with 
gold, and diamonds and costly gems. 

THE MAMELUKES. 
« 

Among the notable events of the remarkable reign uf 
Mehemet Ali, was the destruction of the Mamelukes. The 
details of the tragedy may be given briefly thus : In 1811, 
Mehemet Ali, the Pasha of Egypt, while at Suez, received the 
startling information that the Mamelukes were plotting to 
waylay him on his return to Cairo, to put him to death and 
usurp the kingdom. Setting forth at once upon a single 
dromedary, in ten hours with four out of eighteen attendants 
he entered the capital, the distance being eighty miles. Being 
enraged at this plot and other intrigues set on foot by them, 
he resolved to destroy them at a blow. So at the ceremony of 
investing his son with the command of the army, he invited, 
under the guise of friendship, the Mameluke chiefs to be 
present. Ibrahim Bey, with four hundred and fifty of his 
followers, mounted upon their splendid Arabian horses and in 
their elegant uniforms, rode into the citadel, unaware that 
they were riding into the jaws of death. The ponderous gates 
closed behind them ; the massive Avails encompassed them ; 
yet still they knew no danger. Rapidly flew the hours away, 
and not until they had mounted again their prancing chargers, 
did a suspicion of treachery arise. This suspicion was almost 
instantly changed to a certainty, by a shower of bullets from 
the rifles of the Albanian soldiers, who lay concealed behind 
the ramparts. Every man of the whole company perished 
except one, who escaped by leaping his horse a frightful 
distance from the top of the ramparts. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 805 

The word Mameluke means slave. They had their origin 
in Egypt in A. D. 1214 : and were a body of cavalry made up 
of Circassian and Georgian youth, chosen for their beauty 
and strength. They became strong and governed Egypt for' 
two hundred and sixty-three years ; but they were treacherous 
and dangerous. They were the finest cavalry in the world ; 
yet were incapable of acting for any length of time in concert. 
In Napoleon's invasion of Egypt, they performed marvels of 
valor, but were almost annihilated in their conflict with the 
French commander, at the battle of the Pyramids. Napoleon 
is declared to have said to them, " Give me the Mameluke 
cavalry with the French infantry, and I can conquer the 
world." 

PILGRIMS TO MECCA. 

While at Cairo, in the midst of the summer, we were present 
at the ceremonies connected with the annual pilgrimage to 
Mecca. The entire population of the city and the surround- 
ing country came together, to witness the departing procession 
of the thousands of devotees. They marched round the 
Citadel in solemn procession while salutes were fired. The 
Khedive and his court, pashas, sheiks, and several 
regiments of troops, — infantry, cavalry and artillery, — 
displaying brilliant costumes and uniform, accompanied the 
pilgrims for several miles beyond the city. In the ranks were 
groups of howling dervishes; and numbers of fanatics who 
brandished their swords and fell upon them, and thrust darts 
into their flesh for the purpose, they say, of giving courage to 
the pilgrims. The Kismeh, or lining for the tomb of 
Mahommed, is manufactured at Cairoja new one being supplied 
each year, and the old one, being brought back from Medina, 
is divided into small pieces to be distributed among the 
faithful. This Kismeh is made of the richest silk splendidly 
embroidered with gold. It is carried upon a camel under 
a canop}^ so thickly embroidered that it appears like a 
pyramid of gold glittering in the sunlight. The caravan of 
pilgrims left the city at " Babel-Nurr, " — the "Gate of 
Victorv," — being nearly two hours in passing through it. 

39 



306 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



STRANGE FUNERAL CUSTOMS. 

Among the street scenes may be reckoned the funeral 
processions, which are indeed worthy of special notice. The 
corpse is laid in an open box, having a cloth covering spread 
over it. This box is borne by men, while the mourners — hired 
for the occasion — walk behind, wailing aloud so as to be heard 
at a considerable distance. Ii the deceased were a man, both 
males and females attend as mourners; but for a woman, only 
women. At one time a wealthy woman at her death left a 
bequest that at her funeral, gifts should be distributed to the 
poor, on which occasion we were present. Men rode on 
camels with large baskets filled with bread, which they 
distributed among the crowds of poor who were in attendance. 
At a funeral in India we saw men throw handfuls of coin 
right and left as they were walking behind the corpse. In case 
of a death, the friends of the departed send for professional 
mourners to raise the funeral wail throughout the streets. 
Covering their heads with dust and striking their breasts, they 
utter exclamations of grief, and so continue until after their 
return from the grave. The relatives abstain from all amuse- 
ments, and from every luxury such as wine and delicacies of 
food, and rich clothing and bathing. The time and extent of 
this mourning and fasting, is regulated according to the rank 
and wealth of the deceased. After the body is embalmed it is 
put in a paste-board case, on which are painted the features of 
its inmate, together with various emblems and inscriptions. 
The body, when thus prepared, is called a mummy, and is 
sent to the friends, who keep it standing in the most elegant 
apartment of the home, while prayers are offered for it for days 
and even months before final entombment. 

Bodies so prepared, last for ages ; and some of the mummies 
now. in the rooms of the Historical society in New York are 
-^fSaid'to have been embalmed twenty-five centuries before the 
Christian era. In ancient times, bulls were embalmed; perhaps 
only the sacred ones of their former worship. Some of these 
preserved in the old and sand buried temples recently 
excavated, are to be seen in the Museum at Boulak. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



WEDDING PECULIARITIES. 



Perhaps no where in the Orient, do wedding processions 
appear to better advantage than in Cairo. Since there, both 
the bride and the bride-groom are to be seen as they pass, where- 
as, in India, the bride remains at her home for the marriage 
ceremony; and she is afterwards conveyed to the house of her 
husband under cover, either upon an elephant or in a 
palanquin. The poor however, who can afford neither 
palanquin nor elephant, spread a covering over her and accom- 
pany her through the street. Moslem weddings are celebrated 
in the day time; the ceremony consists in bringing the couple 
before the Mollah, and reading certain papers in the presence of 
witnesses. Before this, always comes a procession along the 
street, which is really a grand affair, even among the poor; 
since neighbors and friends are assembled in great numbers, 
and follow after the canopy under which the bride is carried. 
A band of music (with 'the native drum) accompanies the 
group and mingles its joyous sounds with the shrill but sweet 
zagareet of the women. This last is a peculiar noise made in 
the throat and somewhat like small bells, and very difficult to 
imitate by any person who does not learn it in early youth. 
The canopy held over the bride is of red silk and fastened to 
four poles. She walks, accompanied by her mother and older 
female friends, while the bride's-maids walk, or rather skip, in 
front of her, also dressed in red or pink. The bride is entirely 
covered by a large red shawl, and an elaborate ornament of 
diamonds (hired if they be poor) is placed outside upon her 
head, giving to her the appearance somewhat of a walking- 
idol. The procession already described takes place in the 
middle of the day. In the evening another procession is 
formed, consisting only of men. It is the bride-groom and 
his friends, and they are taking him to the dwelling of the 
bride. This procession is very picturesque. The company all 
have lighted tapers, and bouquets of roses or jessamine or 
orange flowers. The blazing torches glow fitfully, displaying 
the rich-colored carftans, or long open robes, and snow-white 
turbans, and other gay attire of the company, in splendid con- 
trast with the dull colored houses and the dark shadows of 



308 TEN YEARS 1 TRAVEL 

the narrow streets. The bridegroom usually wears a turban 
of some fine and costly color, and is otherwise elegantly 
apparelled. A curious chant is sung at intervals, invoking 
happiness and prosperity for the new couple; and with this 
are mingled many appeals to God and their Prophet for 
blessings upon the heads of the bridegroom and the bride. 

Certain descendants of the ancient Egyptians are known as 
Copts. They are Christians in faith; and so a plurality of 
wives is not allowed among them. Their wedding ceremonies 
Unlike those of other natives, but more resembling those of 
the Jews, last four hours. The priest read^ many prayers and 
passages from the Bible. Then sometimes he sings, and the 
others join in the chorus. With the burning of incense, and 
the beating of cymbals, mingled with the cries of joy, the 
tumult grows louder and louder until amidst peals of music 
and a loud chorus of zagareets from the women, the bride 
enters, closely veiled. The bridegroom has not yet seen her 
face ; but she is led to a seat beside him and the ceremonies 
proceed. At length the priest covers them both with one veil, 
and finishes the performance by praying over them. Feasts 
are made a prominent part of these weddings, and great 
numbers of guests are invited, to whom food is liberally 
distributed. The prettiest part of the whole affair is the night 
procession. The bride, attired in silk and jewels, white 
brocade and diamonds, with plenty of golden ornaments, is 
conducted to the dwelling of her husband. The women — 
except the bride and her maids, who are dressed in brighter 
colors — are enrobed in the black silk mantles which are always 
worn on the street by Coptic women. The men are arrayed 
in every variety of costumes — as among the Moslems — carrying 
gleaming torches, and the boys carrying incense in silver cen- 
sers, the whole joyous group winding along the narrow streets 
and beneath the dark and gloomy archways, altogether 
present a scene most strikingly beautiful and greatly impres- 
sive. These nightly processions, especially the frequent cry, 
"The bridegroom!" "The bridegroom!" "The bridegroom 
cometh !" vividly recall the allusions of Scripture in the para- 
ble of the " Ten Virgins " and elsewhere. Girls used to marry 
young, often as early as the age of ten, and if single at the age 



AROUND THE WORLD. 309 

of fifteen the chance of marriage was slight indeed. Ishmael 
Pasha, however, forbade marriage under the age of sixteen. 

SCHOOLS TA CAIRO. 

The Khedive, among other reforms undertaken by him, 
established schools for boys and girls, having a regular course 
of study. During his reign, learning made great progress. 
Several thousand pupils attended the schools which were sup- 
ported by the government. The University at Cairo has 
students from ail parts of Northern and Eastern Africa, 
Turkey, Syria, and India. In the name of one of his wives 
he instituted the first school for girls in the Ottoman Empire. 
At first, few parents would send their daughters, but now girls' 
schools have become so common and so popular that even the 
daughters of the Pashas attend them. Mary J. Whateley, 
author of "Among the Huts in Egypt" and other works, is at 
the head of the British Mission School for Girls at Cairo. I 
saw her and heard her tell her experience in the good work, to 
which she has given her life with so much self-denial and 
devotion. On one occasion when the Moslem pilgrims were 
embarking at Suez for Mecca, she went among them distribu- 
ting tracts; and she was greatly gratified at seeing them 
engaged in reading the little missions of mercy and religion 

DRIVES IN CAIRO. 

One of the finest drives in Cairo is the Shoubra Road. This 
delightful avenue leads to Shoubra Palace. The distance is 
four miles, and the whole extent is lined on either side with 
acacia trees, whose arching branches interlock over head, 
making a beautiful arcade of graceful foliage throughout its 
entire length. The avenue is lined with palaces and elegant 
dwellings and gardens of wonderful luxuriance. Here, during 
a sultry afternoon, the elite of the city may be seen in the 
gorgeous costumes of the East. H§re, too, may be met caval- 
cades of the Egyptian nobility in gay apparel mounted on 
beautiful Arabian steeds, whose Turkish saddles, covered with 
crimson velvet, glitter with cloth of gold, and whose silken 
reins are studded with precious stones. These princely 



310 TEN YEARS 7 TRAVEL 

cavaliers are preceded by runners, or footmen — young Arabs of 
of lithe figure and great fleetness, who carry each a rod in the 
hand, and call out for all to clear the way. These " runners " 
are clad in a curious costume composed of a white tunic with 
flowing sleeves, a crimson sash and a richly embroidered jacket 
and cap. 

The expression, '' fleet as an Arab," gains new meaning on 
beholding these young men outrun carriages and horsemen at 
full speed; and it seems no longer a miracle nor a myth, but a 
simple fact of ordinary life, that the prophet Elijah should 
gird up his loins and run before the chariot of King Ahab 
from Mount Carmel to the entrance of Jezreel [1 Kings xviii.: 
461. 

PECULIARITIES OF DRESS AND STRANGE CUSTOMS 

Driving on the Shoubra Road were many ladies in hand- 
some carriages. Especially noticeable among them were the 
members of the Khedive's Harem whose coupes were preceded 
by footmen and attended by out-riders, guards and eunuchs. 
The Khedive had four wives — the number allowed by the 
Koran. Each one had her own palace and carriage, and every 
luxury in which she chose to indulge. He had also about 
five hundred other women — slaves or odalisques. They are 
never seen outside the harems unveiled. In Eastern coun- 
tries the veil is a woman's strength and defense. Modestly 
veiled, she may appear anywhere with perfect safety. She is 
held inviolate by a sensitive and most zealous public senti- 
ment. But without the veil she is a weak and helpless being. 
The veil is called the yashmack, and consists of two pieces. One 
covers the lower part of the face up to the eyes, and the other, 
covers the head down to the eye-brows. Underneath the veil 
is placed a little turban, made of some bright or delicate hued 
silk, and coming down on the forehead, which shows through 
the veil. The veil is usually very thin, being made simply of a 
single thickness of tarleta'n or something like that, and the 
features can generally be seen through it. The eyes are black, 
heavy-lashed, and almond shaped, being rendered more 
expressive by contrast with the veil, The women generally 



AROUND THE WORLD. 311 

wear no gloves, and stain the ends of their fingers and the 
palms of their hands with Henna, which tinges them a some- 
what tawny red. 

The beauty of the face is often marred by tattoo marks, 
which are very common among Orientals. This custom they 
trace back to the time of Moses. The tattooing is done thus: 
A number of needles being bound firmly together in the 
shape of the figure desired, the instrument thus formed is 
pressed upon the skin so as to puncture it. Mixtures of 
coloring matter are then rubbed in, and the place is bound up 
with a tight bandage. Gunpowder gives a bluish tinge ; milk 
and lamp-black give black ; while a paste of clover leaves 
makes green. The style of their costumes never changes. 
One which is quite curious is the wrapper, or ferigee. It con- 
sists of two pieces joined together at the neck. The inner is 
a loose fitting saque with sleeves, the outer is merely a flowing 
drapery, falling over the back like a great cape, often reaching 
nearly to the ground. 

The veils of the Coptic women consist of a large black 
mantle which almost conceals the dress. Beneath this, a fillet 
is bound round the head, upon which is fastened an ornament 
resting upon the forehead between the eyes. To this is 
attached the face veil of a different color, being a narrow strip 
hanging down more than a yard in length. Women of the 
wealthier classes often have ten or twelve large gold coins 
fastened together in a row, which they wear over the face veil, 
suspended from the ornament between the eyes. 

We visited several of the best of the forty palaces belonging 
to the Khedive. On New Years day we were at the Shoubra 
palace, a most charming place on the bank of the Nile. At 
this point the prospect on the river is especially splendid. 
Farther up the stream, a bend in the channel brings into view 
the busy town of Boulak, with groves of palms on the opposite 
side, while the Pyramids of Gizeh lend their impressive dignity 
to the scene, and Dahabeehs are plying to and fro with their 
broad lateen sails spread to the wind. To complete the 
picture, a group of Egyptian women had filled their earthen 
jars with the water from the river; and having placed the 
vessels upon theii heads, were bearing them away with exactly 



312 



TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



the same poise so often found in the old statues seen in the 
museums. 

COURT OF AN EASTERN HOUSE. 

The prevailing plan of the houses of the better classes of 
people in Syria, India, Persia and Egypt, presents toward the 
streets a windowless wall, broken only by a heavy door, which 
leads into a narrow passage opening into a court or inner yard., 
usually containing trees, flowers and a fountain. From the 
four sides of this court, through saracenic arches, open many 




COTJET OIF 1 ^.IxT EASTEE1T HOT7SE. 

apartments, each having an independent entrance and not 
always connected with others by inside doors. One of these 
rooms is the larger reception room, where guests are enter- 
tained; another is a kind of business office; others are for 
eating and cooking. On the second floor a gallery supported 
by columns surrounds the entire court. Off of this, open many 
sleeping rooms, and the private rooms of the women. 

ROYAL PALACES. 

The houses of the Khedive were built on this same general 
plan. And from the terrace on the roof, as elsewhere 



AROUND THE WORLD. 313 

described, we had abundant time to note our environs. The 
palace is surrounded with a wall and embowered in a rich 
garden of choice fruits and rare flowers. The oranges were 
ripe, and among them were " mandarins" of the most delicious 
flavor, being the finest that I have ever tasted. Ascending 
terrace upon terrace, along walks arched with trees and flowers, 
we entered a beautiful kiosk, having a fountain in the center. 
This pavilion was literally a gem, carved from Oriental 
alabaster. Another kiosk near by, had a marble fountain with 
the water flowing from the mouths of the figures of forty 
crocodiles. The balustrades around it were of Carrara marble. 
The rooms were fitted up with divans, and the ceilings were 
adorned with arabesques. This grand palace was tenantless at 
the time, standing a prey to the winds and the sands of the 
desert. 

Afterward we visited the Ghizereh Palace, on the opposite 
side of the Nile, a spacious building with splendid decorations 
and surrounded by a garden in which a botanist would revel 
with intense delight. In the zoological collection was a white 
peacock, a rare bird. . Great wealth was lavished in furnishing 
the various apartments of the palace. The walls of the boudoir 
—occupied by the Empress Eugene at the time of her visit 
upon the opening of the Suez canal — were lined with light 
blue satin, bordered with gold. The room was furnithed with 
ottomans, sofas, curtains and other furniture of like splendor. 
In another room was an onyx stone vase, six feet high, valued 
at ten thousand dollars. The statue that holds the place of 
honor in the palace, is an American subject. Its location is 
upon the first landing of the Grand Stairway. A statue of 
Jupiter is seated upon a chimney rising from a tiled roof, and 
•above his head is the point of a lightning rod. From his 
hand he is discharging a thunderbolt, which escapes down the 
twisted rod on the xoof. The whole is on a pedestal with a 
medallion of a half profile of Benjamin Franklin, and about 
it is the inscription, " Eripuit coeh fulonen" A. D. 1750. 



40 



314 TEN YEARS 1 TRAVEL 



CHAPTER V. 

Old Cairo — -Women Grinding at the Mill — A Land of Flow- 
ers — Island of Rhoda — Heliopolis — A Visit to the Pyr- 
amids — Cheops, the Great Pyramid — Gloomy Chambers of 
Cheops — Theories About Founding the Pyramids. 

f^ ITPATEP on the river Nile, a short distance above the 
tlw^ new city, is old Cairo, a town still full of bustle and 

^p activity. It is said to occupy the site of the ancient 
Egyptian Babylon, and is a thoroughly Eastern town. The 
scenes, the manners, the customs, all seem primeval and 
unchanged since the days of the patriarchs. Here are potters 
making their ware, as they did in the time of Jeremiah. 
Plere may be seen women grinding corn as they are described 
as having clone in the Bible times. The mill consists. of two 
round stones, each about two feet across and six inches thick. 
The lower one, called the nether mill-stone [Job xli.: 24] is 
immovable, and slightly convex on the top. The upper one is 
just the reverse, being concave on the bottom so as to fit closely 
to the other. In the center there is a hole, and above this hole 
a hopper; and into this the grain is poured, running thus 
between the stones, where it is broken and crushed into meal, 
which falls over the edge of the nether mill-stone upon a board 
or sort of platform. At the top of the upper stone there is a 
peg, by means of which it is made to revolve. The women, 
talking and singing, sit upon the ground with the mill between 
them ; and while the corn is being turned into the hopper, the 
mill-stone is made to whirl with great rapidity. 

The noise of the grinding, as heard in the dwellings, is a 
pleasant sound, since it betokens activity and industry and 
comfort; and its absence, in prophecy, is often used to indicate 
desolation. In contrast with the antiquity of the town and 
its ruins, is the freshness of the atmosphere; for the climate is 
delightful. The mellow sunshine, the sky of deepest blue, the 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



315 



blazing sunsets, and the brilliancy of the nightly constellations 
are charms Avhich you never can forget. All this beauty is 
increased by the rich verdure and the golden ripeness of the 
cotton fields and gardens and orchards. 



A LAND OF FLOWERS. 



Egypt is a very land of flowers; but I can mention only 
the chief — the Lotus, or Sacred Lily. The botanical name 




-IP^ 1 




TaTOMEIT 



hlE&XZLTIDXlsTGr COSU. 



is nelumbium speciosum. One variety has a pure white 
flower, and another has one of great luxuriance, with about a 
hundred petals, white or rose-colored. The seed-pods are similar 
in size and color to the acorn, and have a taste much like that 
of almonds. The ponds are usually covered with these flowers, 
and when in bloom their appearance is one of beauty. The 
leaf encirlces theflower stalk, thus defending both flower and 
fruH from the water. The stem never fails to reach the 
surface, from whatever depth, upon which the leaf expands, 
resting and swimming thereon. In ancient Egypt, this plant 
was endowed with mystic honors, and won the admiration of 
the earliest writers. Herodotus calls it the " Lily Rose of the 



316 TEN YEARS 1 TRAVEL 

Nile." No aquatic plant has a more tropical aspect than the 
lotus. A large area of them, with their thousands of bude 
and flowers, is a splendid sight. When beginning to expand, 
the flowers are of a rosy-pink hue ; but, when fully open, they 
are a creamy white and pink. They have also a delicious 
fragrance. They open at the morning and close at night like 
the common water lily. 

ISLAND OF RHODA. 

From old Cairo, we crossed the river and visited the island of 
Rlioda ; which contains the Nilometer, a graduated pillar of stone , 
placed in a well' to show the rise of the river Nile during the 
annual overflow. The lowest rise is thirty-two feet, while 
forty feet is exactty what is needed ; forty-two feet would 
cause great devastation to the country. 

The upper part of the island is a lovely spot, being occupied 
by one of the royal palaces. Here, according to tradition. 
Thermusis, daughter of Pharaoh, found the infant Moses in 
the ark of bulrushes at the water's brink. The bank of the 
river is still lined with beds of bulrushes as of yore, being a 
species of reed growing to the height of twelve to twenty-five 
eet. From the bulrush, papyrus is obtained, which was once 
used for writing. Ancient books were made from strips of 
of the inner bark cemented together and dried in the sun. 
This plant when prepared in another way was used for food, 
which fact explains the texts of Scripture in which the u eating 
of books" is mentioned. 

In this connection a few remarks about ancient books may 
be interesting. Long centuries before the art of printing wa& 
discovered, all writing was accomplished with great labor. 
Doubtless the first writing was done on cakes of clay, which 
were afterwards burned. Soon followed wax covered tablets- 
for temporary, and wood and stone for permanent use ; and 
then engraving upon plates of lead and copper. All this 
writing was done with a sharp-pointed piece of metal called a 
stylus, whence comes our word " style." Next the use of ink 
and pen was discovered, and writing was done upon dressed 
skins called parchments; and also upon linen, and finally in 
Egypt they found that the bark of the papyrus reed furnished. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 






an excellent paper. Bui whether parchment or paper wag 
employed, the separate pieces were joined together in long 
sheets, and were rolled upon pieces of wood, one at each end, 




-^ZtTGZISniT'X' s=.ii.se 



The books of the ancients are represented in the accom- 
panying illustration. The reader opens first to the beginning 
of the right side, and when he has read a column, roils that 
inward and unrolls another with his left hand, and so he 
continues. 

From the Greek and Latin words for bark, roll, and papyrus 
we derive our words library, volume, paper, and Bible ; and 
also many other words pertaining to writing and printing. 

HELIOPOL1S. 

We also made an excursion to the site of the ancient city of 
On, or Heliopolis, seven miles north of Cairo. All that now 



318 



TEN YEARS 7 TRAVEL 



remains of the ruins of this once celebrated place is a single 
column,, which is said to have belonged to the temple of the 
sun, and which is thought to be the oldest monument in 
Egypt. It gives one a singular impression to stand and gaze 
upon this solitary obelisk and to think that Plato saw the same 
pillar standing in his time, and that Joseph, the Hebrew 
captive and "ruler of all the land of Egypt," read upon it the 

hieroglyphical n&me 
— Osirtasin — that one 
reads to-day. 

Joseph, so learned 
in the wisdom of the 
ancient Egy p tians 7 
was educated at On, 
and there he married 
Asenath, daughter of 
jf Potiphera, priest (or 
L prince) of On. Near 
i Heliopolis stands a 
§§s3 7 camore tree, which 
ig tradition points out 
J as the place where Jos- 
iph and Mary, with 
v^the infant Jesus, rest- 
'ed during their flight 
into Egypt, and also 
where by his miracu- 
lous power, he turned 
into sweet water a muddy, brackish fountain. 




? - 




OBELISIC 



VISIT TO THE PYRAMIDS. 

The greatest wonder near Cairo is the Pyramids, eight 
miles distant. Starting early in the morning, having taken 
a carriage at the hotel, we proceeded to visit these marvels of 
the ancient world. That day, (April 20, 1875) was a day 
memorable in my experience, as to every one who for the first 
time beholds the Pyramids. The mode of making the excur- 
sion at the present time is a vast improvement over that of 



AROUND THE WORLD. 319 

former years. Heretofore boats and donkeys were empl yed, 
following the detour of the canal, making a distance of twenty- 
eight miles. Now a splendid macadamized road, thickly 
shaded by lofty trees, affords a drive, and the direct dis- 
tance, eight miles, seems to dwindle into less than one- 
half that short space. Where a bend in the road brings 
the pyramids into view, they seem not more than a mile 
distant. So clear is the atmosphere, and so immensely do they 
stand out in the distant view, that they appear as large six 
miles away as they do at one. The splendor of the intervening 
landscape is increased by contrast with the desert waste. Th« 
feathery palm tree set behind with the dark blue sky, a flock 
of snow-white birds, a herd of buffaloes, a train of heavy-laden 
camels, and a troop of Bedouins, were among the objects 
that lay in the fore-ground as we approached these monarchs 
of time. Solemnly, they stand in mute but impressive 
grandeur! Well might the young and impulsive French 
commander Napoleon, exclaim to his army, drawn up in battle 
array beneath the shadow of the Pyramids: "Soldiers, from 
the summit of these mighty monuments of antiquity forty 
centuries look down upon you ! " 

The scene was indeed purely Egyptian. Forgetful of all 
else, we looked upon those wondrous piles of stone whose 
history is lost in the misty ages of the past! Rising majes- 
tically from amid the yellow sands of the desert, mirrored in 
a back-ground of nature's choicest blue, they stand like the 
creation of some Oriental tale. Their grandeur, their antiquity, 
their mysteiy, alike arouse in our souls the deepest sense of 
the sublime! They were built before Abraham went down 
into Egypt. Joseph doubtless showed them to his brethren as 
among the wonders of the land in which he was a ruler, second 
only to Pharaoh. Egypt has passed through strange vicissi- 
tudes since the erection of the Pyramids of Ghizeh. Dynasties 
and nations have come and gone; yet these mountains of stone, 
piled up by human hands, still remain as mementoes of the 
oldest civilization now known to man ! 

CHEOPS, THE GREAT PYRAMID. 

The Pyramids, altogether sixty in number, lie in groups, 
the greater part of them being embraced within a circuit of 



320 



TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



sixty miles. Herodotus says of Cheops, the "Great Pyramid,"' 
that its erection occupied one hundred and twenty thousand 
men for sixty }^ears, they being changed every three months. 
Its base covers eleven acres, and its top rises nearly five hundred 
feet above the desert sands. It has been estimated that the 
mighty pile contains stone enough to build a wall three feet 
thick and five feet high around Great Britain, a distance of 
eight hundred and eighty-three miles! 








In making the ascent ot the Pyramid Cheops, I engaged the 
assistance of three Arabs. They make excellent guides, as 
they go barefoot, and do not wear heavy clothing, and so are 
light and agile. I had one on each side to lift me by the 
arms, resting now and then by changing with the third, who 
carried a stool to assist me in reaching the higher steps, which 
in some places are four to five feet in height. On reaching the 
to-B and^aking a survey of the scene, I selected a smooth stone 



AROUND THE WORLD. 321 

and inscribed my name thereon, with the date of my visit, as 
I have also done upon many of the monuments of antiquity 
I have visited in various countries of the world. 

The summit of Cheops is a square platform about thirty feet 
in extent. Here, tourists tarry awhile to take their lunch, to 
write letters, or to make notes in their diaries, and to take 
an extensive survey of the landscape. Everything is strange, 
vast, and suggestive. We look down upon two regions as 
diverse as life and death. Just before is the valley of the 
Nile, the eternal fertility of which has outlived the powerful 
empires that have been founded upon its prolific soil, and been 
nourished thereby. We see also, as far as the eye can reach, 
coming up to its green border, and hemming it in as with a 
formidable barrier, the yellow sands of the Egyptian Desert! 

Who can visit the Pyramids and the Nile, with the amazing 
ruins of magnificent cities and temples, scattered here and there 
in this ancient land, and upon the banks of this mysterious 
river, without being moved by reminiscences most affecting 
and most diverse? These hoary sentries make real the ages 
long gone by, and raise to life and being, the men and scenes 
of that olden time! They draw all ages together; they bring 
us into communion and companionship with Abraham and 
Isaac and -Jacob ; with Moses and Aaron and Miriam ; with 
Pharaoh and the Hebrew Exodus from the land of Egypt. 

GLOOMY CHAMBERS OF CHEOPS. 

The entrances to the pyramids are on the northern side. 
We entered Cheops, descending through the gallery at an angle 
of twenty-five degrees, to a large block of granite which 
obstructs the passage. Beyond this we kept on through 
another gallery which ascends at about the same angle, and is 
twenty-five feet in length. This gallery divides into two 
branches, one leading to the Chamber of the Queen, and the 
other to the Chamber of the King. We visited the first, and, 
returning to the point of division, observed a large gloomy 
opening, called the well, which is said to have been originally 
a communication with some lower chamber, but to be now par- 
tially closed. Ascending the grand gallery at a steep angle, with 
the stone worn so smooth by the continual tread of travelers, 



322 TEN YEARS 1 TRAVEL 

that we were in constant fear and danger of slipping backward, 
and downward into that great black well ! We went onward 
to the King's Chamber in the center of the Pyramid. It was 
illuminated with magnesium lights during our visit, enabling 
us to examine most minutely the polished walls, of its huge 
sarcophagus of granite, which is claimed to have received the 
royal remains. Having satisfied our curiosity we returned to 
the entrance, and emerged into the outer air, thankful to 
behold once more the cheerful light of day ! 

THEORIES ABOUT THE FOUNDING OF THE PYRAMIDS. 

The theory of some of the most distinguished scientists, is, 
that the Great Pyramid is an astronomical monument. Many 
archaeologists think that they are only vast sepulchers, and 
that they, together with the process of embalming, which was 
carried on to such perfection among the Egyptians, are good 
evidences that the people of Egypt believed in the resurrection 
of the body; and that they wished and intended to preserve 
the bodies of their kings as only a mighty pyramid could keep 
them. 

Every Egyptian monarch seems to have begun his reign by 
commencing to build his sepulcher, and in the Pyramids each 
successive layer would appear to mark a year of his reign. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



32^ 



CHAPTER VI. 

The Sphinx — Memphis Antiquities — Origin of Heathen 
Worship and Tempees — Sand Storm — Land of Goshen — 
On the Way to India — A View of Mount Sinai — Sunset 
on the Red Sea — Passing Scenes — Indian Ocean. 



[URING our stay at Cairo we visited the Sphinx. This curi- 
osity of the ancient world is known to the superstitious 
Arab by the name of Aboolhol, or the Father of Terror, or 
Immensity. It is stated of the Sphinx that in its pristine perfec- 
tion, no single stone in Egypt could vie therewith. It is in form 
partly human and partly like a lion. It has been cut from a 




■xns sphikts:. 



single block of stone, except the fore-paws. Its height, as given 
by Pliny, was one hundred and forty three feet, with a circum- 
ference around the forehead of one hundred and two feet. 



324 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

Other authors give the height from the base on which it rests 
its lion-like breast to the top, at fifty-six feet, and less than 
ninety feet around its massive head. These differences are 
largely owing, no doubt, to the decay and the portions which 
have been broken off during the long lapse of ages. The 
cap, or royal helmet of Egypt, which formerly adorned the 
head, has been removed, but portions of the drapery at the 
sides of the face remain. This colossal statue rises in sublime 
dignity above the sandy waste as guardian to the Great Pyr- 
amid, both of them marvels of Egyptian architecture. For 
what purpose was this mammoth stone hewn or fashioned ? is 
a question that has puzzled the wisest historian as well as the 
ordinary traveler. The only logical answer given seems to be 
that it was formed and worshipped as a deity. About it once 
stood a magnificent temple, long since crumbled into ruins and 
wasted away. The age of this heathen deity was long a 
question of mystery and doubt ; but recent discoveries show it 
to have been contemporary with the pyramids. 

Sphinxes of smaller dimensions have been discovered in 
various parts of Egypt, and some of them have been placed in 
museums among the different collections of Europe. 

MEMPHIS ANTIQUITIES. 

We went by the railway to Metrahney, a village built on 
the site of ancient Memphis, and once the capital of Lower 
Egypt. In this region, Abraham dwelt while sojourning in 
this land. A grove of palms marks the spot, and the only re- 
mains of this far-famed city of the olden day, are mounds of 
rubbish, fragments of granite, and the colossal statue of 
Rameses, partly buried in the sand. Memphis has furnished 
the materials for building old Cairo. Were it not for this, we 
might be able to behold the ruins of that populous city, even 
as we now look upon Luxor, Karnac, and Thebes. The pyra- 
amids of Sakkara are thought to mark the western suburbs of 
Memphis. 

The epochs, the builders, and the object of these wonders 
of architecture had remained for two thousand years a mystery 
deep and impenetrable. But at length the researches of 
modern antiquarians have unveiled their mysteries, revealed 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



325 



the names of the men who made them and made known the 
reasons for their erection. They thus have been proved to be 
a succession of royal mausoleums, the strangest, the most 
costly, and the most magnificent in the world ! 

ORIGIN OF HEATHEN WORSHIP AND TEMPLES. 

According to Egyptian mythology, the god Osiris came to 
the earth and allowed himself to be put to death that the souls 
of men might be saved. After his death and resurrection, 
it was claimed that his spirit passed into a bull, called 
Apis. The worship of the Apis was then celebrated with great 
pomp at Memphis, which was (some have said) the metropolis 
of Lower Egypt. 




STATUE O^ EAMESE3 J^2*T3D SITE OF ZMIEH^E^HIS- 

A temple 3 sacred to the worship of Apis was known in each 
locality as The Serapeum. Of these, there were a great manj^ ; 
but of most of them no vestiges remain. We visited the best 
preserved one, situated near Memphis. This, with its grand 
avenue of one hundred and fifty sphinxes, has been only quite 
recently reclaimed from the drifting sands of the desert. 
When the heavy door was swung open, the hot stifling air 
met our faces as though coming from the mouth of a glowing 
oven ; and great bats flew about, flapping their wings against 
the walls as we walked down the gloomy passages. 

The Serapeum, is a long subterranean archway, with alcoves 
on each side containing the tombs. The most of the sarcoph- 



326 TEN YEARS 1 TRAVEL 

agi which originally contained the remains of the mummied 
bulls have been removed to various museums. They are of 
real granite, finely polished and covered with inscriptions. 

In the museum at Boulak we found the finest collection of 
Egyptian antiquities, so far as known, that has been made. 
The statues of the various monarchs of the different dynasties 
are arranged in chronological order. Beginning with the 
statue in sycamore wood from Sakkara, five thousand years 
old, we can trace the royal line onward by these memorials of 
stone to King Menepta, the Pharaoh who held the Hebrews in 
bondage at the Exodus. He sits in an attitude of repose, with 
a lofty bottle-shaped head-dress. There, also, are the builder of 
the second pyramid and the queen of Karnac. with statues of 
priests, philosophers, statesmen, and historians. 

A SAND STORM. 

On our return to Cairo we were overtaken by a sand storm. 
For some distance we saw it coming over the desert like a dark 
purple cloud. The sun was obscured and we were enshrouded 
in the drifting sand, which beat against the cars like a fearful 
shower of hail. These sand storms are often fearful, at times 
even destroying human life. The traveler, who happens to be 
caught in them, becomes overpowered by the on-sweeping 
wave§ of flying sand, until — like the victim in a snow storm — 
he is bewildered, then overpowered, and at last sinks down to 
be buried and suffocated beneath the fast piling sands. 

On taking a carriage at the station, the Arabs, taking- 
advantage of the darkness and confusion, attempted to 
rob me, and succeeded in cutting my cloak before they were 
detected. 

LAND OF GOSHEN. 

In tracing the history of Egypt, we find that the dynasty of 
the Shepherd Kings, or Canaanites lasted for five hundred and 
eleven years. During their reign, Abraham was in Egypt, and 
he was regarded with favor by the king. A new power arose 
and in Jacob's time the Israelites were allotted to the land of 
Goshen on the borders of Egypt, because shepherds were an 
abomination to the reigning dynasty, which was from Thebes. 



AROUND THE WORLD. B27 

G-oshen was the best of the land. The Wady, or valley of 
Tumilat, embraces about sixty miles square, being a narrow 
fertile strip lying north from Cairo, and extending from the 
Delta to the eastern borders of Egypt In this valley stood 
the treasure cities of Pharaoh, Pithom and Raamses, the store 
houses or strongholds of Egypt, which were built by the 
Israelites. After a sojourn of centuries in Egypt, the Hebrews 
set forth from Raamses — a company of six hundred thousand 
armed men, besides women and children 3 — pursued by Pharaoh 
with his chariots, his horsemen and his army. 

The land of Goshen is traversed from one extreme to the 
other by a railway leading from Cairo on the Nile, to Ismaila 
on the Suez Canal. We made this journey on two occasions. 
The first was on a former visit, when we took a steamer via 
the canal and Port Said for the Holy Land ; the second was 
after leaving Cairo for the East. 

ON THE WAV TO INDIA. 

As we passed, we noted the sites of the ancient cities of 
Pithom and Raamses. Near the station Zagazig is the place 
called Tell Basta, Avhich is perhaps Pibeseth, the capital city of 
Shishak, who was a cotemporary of King Rehoboam. Here 
are the remains of the great temple Pasht, which was five 
hundred feet long, and one of the most attractive in the whole 
land. From Ismaila to Suez, we traveled by the railway, which 
runs parallel with, and never far distant from, the Suez Canal. 
For the greater part of this distance the road passes through 
the desert. In some places the limit of verdure is so sharp and 
distinct, that one may stand with one foot upon the green 
grass, and the other upon the desert sand. In other places we 
may see patches of sand among the grass and growing grain, 
and afterward patches of grass amid the sand, and at length 
all sand. 

Suez is a very old town, said to date back to the time of 
Moses and the Exodus. But it is now largely modernized 
by the influx of foreigners during and since the making of the 
Canal. The city stands wholly in the sand, and not a plant 
can be found which is not the result of special care and culture. 
The English steamer Xanthus was lying at the dock, and in 



328 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

that ocean vessel we took passage for India, distant three 
thousand miles. 

At two o'clock in the afternoon we sailed from Suez, and 
were soon out of the canal into the gulf. About four o'clock 
we passed the place thought to be where the Israelites crossed 
the Red Sea. Here the gulf widens, and the shores become 
more rugged and barren. 

A VIEW OF MOUNT SINAI. 

The next morning, which was the Sabbath, we were called 
on deck to take a view of Mount Sinai, which remained in sight 
nearly all day. It is not easy to realize, what is, nevertheless, 
the fact, that this barren mountain standing out so bald and 
rugged against the Eastern sky, is the scene of God's won- 
drous manifestations to his chosen people. Mount Sinai is 
one of the peaks of the Sinaitic range of mountains which 
lies between the Gulf of Suez and the Gulf of Akaba, the two 
northern arms or branches of the Red Sea. It is about 
twenty-five miles from the coast, and seven thousand five 
hundred feet in height. In the group are three other peaks 
nearly as high as Sinai, all of them being alike barren and 
desolate ; but the beauty of the reflected sun light in so trans- 
parent an atmosphere, atones somewhat for the lack of 
verdure. There is nothing sharp nor rigid in the outlines of 
the mountain-summits; a delicate mantle of rose-color shaded 
by indescribable green and blue, clothes both the summits and 
the adjacent sky with an exquisite coloring such as is never 
seen in more northern latitudes. At night the stars and 
constellations appeared with unwonted brilliancy, and for the 
first time in my life, I saw the North Star and the Southern 
Cross, above the horizon at the same time. The next day at 
noon the reckoning showed 24° 22' north, and that the dis- 
tance traveled during the preceeding twenty-four hours was 
two hundred and ten miles. When fifty miles north of the 
Tropic of Cancer, mountain peaks were discovered through the 
ship's glass, one hundred and ten miles away. 

SUNSET ON THE RED SEA. 

A sunset on the Red Sea is a scene beyond the power of 
speech to describe. The first evening of our voyage within 



AROUND THE WORLD. 329 

the Tropics, as the sun disappeared beneath the surface of the 
waves, a few fleecy clouds showed themselves in the west and 
the north. Suddenly the sky and the water appeared to turn 
into a vast dome and an ocean of gold, which changed from 
one brilliant color to another with surprising rapidity and 
with charming effect. In the west, light blue and gold pre- 
dominated; in the east the shades were deeper, — dark blue, 
crimson, orange and violet, all of which illuminated the sky and 
played upon the water for the space of two hours. When the 
stars appeared, Venus was about two hours high (in the west) 
with a small star near, as it were an accompanying satellite. 
An unusual phenornenon attended her setting. On entering 
the lower strata of the atmosphere, her color changed from a 
fiery red to a bright phosphorescent hue, and assumed the 
alternations of color observed in the revolving lamps of a 
light-house. 

PASSING SCENES. 

x4_mong the places seen on the voyage were Mocha, and 
Jeddah. From Mocha, is shipped the best Arabian coffee ; and 
Jeddah, is the place at which the pilgrims from Turkey, 
Palestine and Egypt land, on their way to Mecca. Here they 
change their clothing from their ordinary apparel to white 
woolen robes (no matter what the rank or wealth may be). 
Among the incidents worthy of notice was the bursting of a 
small steam-pipe connected with the boiler. Half the steam 
had to be shut off while repairs were being made. Another 
day, when the men drew the log-line, it had a small serpent 
twined around it. The Red Sea abounds in serpents and in 
fish, though the waters are very salt, containing as much as 
eight ounces of salt to a gallon of sea water. The statement 
is made that in some places near the shore the waters of the 
Red Sea are red like blood, when seen a little distance off, but 
that on closer inspection, they appear clear as crystal. Per- 
haps the myriads of animalcule that are found therein, may 
cause the color spoken of. The water contains an abundance 
of copperas. Fish are found with their bones tinged green, 
and oysters so poisonous that death from eating them, results 
in a few hours. One morning it rained, which is a very 

42 



330 TEN YEARS 1 TRAVEL 

unusual occurrence on the Reel Sea. The highest temperature 
observed was 115° Fahrenheit. At night, often, a remarkable 
phosphorescent glow was seen upon the waters; and sometimes 
a rush of light from the sides of the steamer, like the rays 
shining from a lantern. Bright golden balls as large as 
oranges were constantly seen in the bubbling, seething waters 
at the stern. Now and then a globe of light of the size of a 
man's head appeared, bursting and illuminating the water 
like a flash of lightning. 

INDIAN OCEAN. 

On the Indian Ocean the scenes were full of variety and 
interest. Jellyfish were caught as thin and delicate as gauze, 
and in shape like a bell-glass, and with various colors, as red 7 
pink, lilac, purple and violet. Flying fish skimmed over the 
water and darted about the steamer. Some people doubt that 
there are fish with wings. They need not do so. I have 
often seen them and have eaten them; and have now in my 
possession some dried wings that I cut from the fish myself. 
They now look like tough transparent paper stretched over 
wires. Fishes belonging to a species called the grampus, were 
often seen near the steamer gamboling with great glee, 
often throwing their bodies out of the water, and waving and 
curling their finny tails above the surface of the waves. The 
day before our arrival at Bombay, we saw a large black and 
white spotted serpent, about four feet long, lying on the surface 
of the water. If a fresh water snake, as we supposed it to be. 
it was a mystery how it ever got so far from land. 

At the end of two weeks the voyage was completed, and the 
Xanthus cast anchor in the harbor of Bombay, 'in which were 
moored great war ships, turret ships, steamers and sailing 
vessels of every sort, bearing aloft the banners of their respect- 
ive nations. 



ABOUND THE WORLD. 331 



SEVENTH TOUR-INDIA 



CHAPTER I. 

Landing at Bombay — A Bevy of Waiters — The Cave of 
Elephanta — Hindoo Trinity — Rock Temples — In the 
Mountains and Jungles of Central India — Mote Bun- 
galow — Attended by a Dozen Servants — The Water 
Carrier — Feast of the Mohurrum — Fete to the Prince 
of Wales — Guests of the Queen of Bhopal. 

APPROACHING Bombay from the west, we first saw the 
ImI Ghaut Mountains, which extend along the Malabar 
^Ipr coast. Covered with cocoa-nut and date palms, they 
appear picturesque and beautiful. In 1662, Bombay, which 
was then in the possession of the Portugese, was ceded to the 
British government. Since that time it has grown into one of 
the greatest commercial emporiums of the East. It is half 
European in appearance, with its grand harbor, its docks, its 
broad esplanade, its wide streets, tram-cars and carriages; 
its hotels, churches, colleges, and government buildings. Yet 
there is enough of Oriental life to remind us that this is the 
land of India. 

A BEVY OF WAITERS. 

When passing from the steamer to the shore, half a dozen 
men extended their brown arms to assist me. On raising my 
parasol, a man came up with a polite salaam (salutation) and 
held an umbrella over me, a covering well suited to the require- 
ments of the climate; for the mercury then stood at eighty 
degrees, with not a cloud to be seen. Another seeing that I 
was warm, came up softly, and, with a large palm-leaf, 
proceeded to fan me. In everything, I was reminded that I 



332 TEN YEARS 7 TRAVEL 

had reached the land where custom ordered that I should have 
a multitude of servants to wait upon me. 

Palanquin bearers carried us to the Prince of Wales' Hotel. 
The palanquin was to me a novel mode of conveyance. It 
consists of a wooden box about eight feet long, with cushioned 
bottom, and with sides closed by either Venetian blinds or 
curtains. A strong pole extends beneath the roof, which rests 
upon the shoulders of the coolies, or carriers, who move with 
an easy, pacing gait. 

The hotel was kept by a wealthy Parsee, or Persian. The 
Parsees settled on the Malabar coast about eight hundred years 
ago. Now a large portion of the wealth of Bombay is in their 
hands. 

CAVE OF ELEPHANTA. 

While at Bombay, we visited the Cave of Elephanta, on the 
island of the same name, which lies about seven miles out in 
the bay, and takes its name from the colossal statue of an 
elephant that once stood on the shore. In this cave is a 
remarkable temple, of which the various rooms, idols, fluted 
columns, floral capitals, and sculptured architraves are all 
hewn out of the solid rock. The great hall is one hundred 
and thirty feet in length, at one end of which stands the deity 
of the temple, a triple idol, twelve feet high. 

HINDOO TRINITY. 

The central figure is Brahma, the Creator; the one on the 
right is Vishnu, the Preserver; while the third is Siva, the 
Destroyer. In our illustration, the left hand figure shows 
these deities as represented in triple form. The others repre- 
sent two of them singly, as they usually occur. 

This is the Hindoo Trinity, and the constant recurrence of 
these figures in their mythology shows how the idea of a 
Trinity prevades other ancient religions than our own. The 
Hindoo faith in its original purity was a consistent monothe- 
ism. They believed in one Creator, the supreme ruler of 
heaven and earth, too great for mortal comprehension, and so 
never worshipped. Three deities derived from him, and 
personifications of his attributes, are the principal gods of the 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



333 




334 



TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 




AROUND THE WORLD. 335 

land ; but subordinate deities have been multiplied to the 
number of thirty-three millions. Of these three millions are 
evil and the remainder good. 

ROCK TEMPLES. 

Temples and tombs hewn in the solid rock are frequent 
throughout the East, especially in Egypt and India. Some- 
times these are dug into the sides of cliffs; but in rarer 
instances the rock is cut away, leaving in one huge mass a 
temple or monument enduring as the hills. The famous rock- 
hewn city of Petra of ancient Edom furnishes, perhaps, the 
best known, though not the most beautiful examples. 

The accompanying engraving represents such temples, as we 
frequently saw in India. 

IN THE MOUNTAINS AND JUNGLES OF CENTRAL INDIA. 

At Bombay we took the train for Central India. Previous 
to the construction of the railway over the Andes by the late 
Henry Meiggs, the ascent of the Ghauts from Bombay, was 
considered one of the grandest feats of railway engineering 
in the world. The locomotive mounts up from height to 
height, like ascending the steps of a gigantic spiral stair-way. 
On reaching the summit we looked out upon the great plains 
of Hindostan, diversified by fields of grain, towns, dwellings, 
arid wastes, belts of forests, and groves of palms, above which 
majestic banyan trees rose like giant sentinels. 

After traveling for several hours, we came to the Vindhya 
Mountains. As the night advanced we penetrated farther and 
farther into their deep and wild recesses. The only sounds 
which broke the gloomy silence were the rustling of the Leaves 
and the screams of wild animals and birds. The scenes around 
us called to mind stories told of the treachery of the natives, 
and of attacks from ravenous beasts and venomous serpents. 

The morning sun displayed before us the broad, crystal 
waters of the Nerbudda, skirted with dense forests, resounding 
with the notes of wild birds and the cries of monkeys, which 
were seen leaping from bough to bough and from tree to tree. 

We ascended from the deep valley to the broad table lands 



336 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

of Central India, which have an elevation of two thousand 
feet above the level of the sea. 

We stopped at Indore, the capita 1 city of Maharajah Holkar 
(the great king), the native ruler of that province of India. 
In each province of India — subject to Great Britain — reside 
political agents, who are appointed by the government to 
maintain the mutual relations between the respective countries. 
Yet the native kings are permitted to exercise dominion over 
their subjects, and to preserve inviolate their religion and 
domestic rites. These rulers live in a state of great luxury 
and magnificence. 

MOTE BUNGALOW. 

We stopped at the mote bungalow belonging to the king. In 
every province such homes are provided for guests, either by 
the British Resident or by the native princes; and they are 
found located along the principal roads twelve miles apart. 
A bungalow is usually one story in height, quadrangular 
in shape, with a high peaked roof, and eaves projecting 
so as to form broad verandas. Connected with each suite of 
rooms is a bath room, furnished with tubs and jars of water. 
Suspended from the ceiling is the punka, for the purpose of 
cooling the room. It consists of a light frame, nearly the 
length of the apartment, covered with linen, and having a 
curtain about twelve inches deep attached along the lower 
side, and trimmed with bright red or blue braid. This forms 
a kind of large fan, to which a cord or ratan is attached, and 
by which it is kept in motion by the coolie who sits outside 
on the veranda. A man may be employed for this service for 
a whole night for twenty-five cents. 

ATTENDED BY A DOZEN SERVANTS. 

The lines of caste in India are so rigidly drawn that each 
service is performed by its respective laborer; and therefore a 
great number of servants are necessary to meet the demands of 
a family, or even of a single individual. In some instances 
my husband and I have had the daily attendance of at least a 
dozen servants. Those altogether indispensible were the cook 
with his boy waiter, the bearer, the coachman, the Avater 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



337 




43 



338 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

carrier, the man for the punka, the man who washes the 
clothes, the one who attends to the sweeping, and a lady's 
maid, with occasionally an interpreter. The native women 
have not yet been advanced to service in English families, 
except as ladies ' maids and as nurses for children, each child 
in a family having a seperate nurse. Care is always taken to 
provide diet to suit the guests; but without a special order, 
curried rice and grilled chicken were the dishes usually placed 
before us. An order for beef-steak is filled by a dish of goat's 
meat. The cow being a sacred animal to the Hindoo, he 
considers it no sin to declare to a Christian that goat's meat is 
very good beef-steak. 

In many places in India, water is so scarce that it is sold by 
people who bring it great distances in large, flat, leather sacks 
fastened by thongs on each side of an ox. They are filled with 
water at funnel-shaped openings at the rear top, and are 
emptied by little pipes at the front bottom corners. 
In our picture you see one of these oxen thus laden with full 
water-skins, the contents of which his driver will be very glad 
to sell to any one who may want water. Smaller bags, shaped 
like pillow-cases, are made for less quantities, and are car- 
carried by a man across his shoulders, slung before or behind, 
as may be handiest. The water for many purposes has very 
often to be brought, as that in the wells is generally brackish, 
frequently so much so as to be quite useless for washing. 

In India, the people rarely drink anything but water, and 
therefore know its value. Indeed, they think so much of its 
importance and quality, that they never ask if a place or the 
climate agrees with you, but " How does the water of such a 
place suit you ? " 

FEAST OF THE MOHURRUM 

While we were at Indore, the Mohammedan festival — called 
the Mohurrum — -took place. This is an annual feast given in 
memory of the tragic death of the grand-sons of Mohammed. 
We were introduced to the king by the British Resident, and 
received from him a written invitation to attend the fete. He 
also sent men with an elephant to convey us to the place where 
the scene was to take place. The ponderous animal kneeled 



AROUND THE WORLD. 

':ilii:J 




340 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

down at the command of his master, while upon the ladder 
placed by his side, we ascended to the howdah, or seat, on his 
back. We had a magnificent view of the gorgeous pageant, 
which lasted three days. The desire to behold an Oriental 
scene was fully satisfied. Imagination cannot picture a dream 
so fair. It seemed like a transformation from the scenes of 
daily life to a veritable fairy land. 

In the procession men bore upon their shoulders pagoda-like 
structures, made to represent the tombs of the martyrs. Some 
of these were thirty feet in height. They, being covered with 
gilt and tinsel, seemed like fairy creations dissolving in the 
golden sunlight, while soft strains of music were waftecl upon 
the air. Upon these structures men stood at different eleva- 
tions, waving snowy chauries to keep off the dust. Around us 
vast multitudes — clad in great turbans and many colored 
robes — moved like a surging mass. We went in company with 
a number of kings and princes, who were also mounted upon 
elephants. We had for our guide a young educated Brahmin, 
who pointed out many interesting features of the ceremonies, 
and explained many mysteries of the Moslem faith. 

FETE TO THE PRINCE OF WALES. 

A few weeks later, we attended the great fete given by the 
Maharajah Holkar to the Prince of Wales. Early in the 
morning, the signal guns announced the as.::mbling of the 
troops, who were arrayed in brilliant uniform. Then followed 
the gathering of multitudes of people, and of kings and princes 
from other provinces. Meanwhile — in accordance with Eastern 
custom — the king of Indore with his escort departed for the 
railway station, at that time twenty-four miles distant, for the 
purpose of meeting the special guest of the occasion, the Prince 
of Wales. On their return they were hailed with the thun- 
dering of cannon, the presentation of arms, and the hearty 
acclamations of the people. A royal banquet was held at 
noon ; the durbar in the afterno®n ; and a ball at night, which 
was accompanied with splendid illuminations. 

We were present at the durbar, which took place in the 
durbar-hall — a beautiful pavilion with marble pavement, 
sculptured columns* and Saracenic arches. The hall was- 



AROUND THE WORLD. 341 

elegantly decorated for the fete, with vases and garlands of 
flowers. The sofas and chairs were upholstered with satin of 
crimson and gold, and its curtains were of heavy kingkab, or 
gold cloth. The ceremonies commenced by the passing of 
peons between the different titled personages. The peons 
consist of small parcels of betel-nut, opium, and various spices, 
made up and folded in betel-nut leaves. These are given in 
exchange as tokens of friendship. A table was covered with 
costly and beautiful gifts from the king to the Prince of Wales 
for himself and his royal mother and her family. I was 
permitted to hold in my hands the pearl necklace that was 
sent to the queen. It contained nine strands — each two yards 
in length — -of the largest and finest pearls in India; and in the 
center it had a magnificent emerald pendant. I also examined 
and handled the diamond necklace intended for the Princess 
of Wales, and the bracelets for the Duchess of Edinburg. 

The king gave the prince a cheetah, or tame leopard, an 
animal used in the chase and highly prized in India. I have 
seen them wrapped in covers of eider down and cloths of 
kingkab, in cages cushioned and richly ornamented. 

GUESTS OF THE QUEEN. 

From Indore we went to Bhopal, another province of Central 
India. It is ruled by a native queen, Shah Jehan Begum, 
whose mother, the Nawab Sikander Begum, ruled Bhopal 
twenty-one years as regent and queen. She paid off large 
debts and made her charge a model state. 

The queen received us corcliall}^, gave us a bungalow to live 
in, and servants to attend us, and placed an elephant at our 
disposal, with the request that we should visit the different 
places of interest in her dominion. She sent me a written 
invitation to remain in her palace as court physician. We 
became quite well acquainted with the queen's daughter, 
known as "the sultana.'' Her appearance and dress are well 
shown in the accompanying illustration. 

When we left Bhopal the queen sent us in a carriage with an 
escort of armed men to the neighboring province of Hoshun- 
gabad. At mid-clay we rested and dined on the banks of the 
Nerbudda river, under one of the largest banyan trees in India. 



342 



TEN YEARS 1 TRAVEL 










HI1TDOO PEIUCESS. 

It covers many acres of ground, and is said, once during a 
severe rain, to have sheltered a general and his entire army. 
At this place we crossed the river in a large flat-boat, and spent 
a few days at Hoshungabad, where recent missionary work had 
been attended with encouraging results. 



AROUND THE WORLD, 343 



CHAPTER II. 

"City of God" — Sacred Ganges — Throwing Children into 
the River — A Lucrative Business for Priests — Hook 
Swinging — A Dreadful Massacre — Marvelous Palaces 
and Tombs of Lucknow — Tropical Vegetation ; Palm 
Trees — The Cocoa-Nut Palm and its Uses — Manner of 
Climbing a Palm Tree — The Date and Catechu Palm — 
The Cocoa — Big Trees of India — The Bamboo — The 
Banyan and Other Remarkable Trees — -The Splendid 
Roads. 

TT'T Hoshungabnd, the cholera broke out and we hastened 

7 V 

\'"V; to the East India railway, and passed onward through 

l^f^ 1 the large towns of Jubelpore and Allahabad. The 

meaning of the name Allahabad is " City of God." It stands 

at the confluence of the Ganges and the Jumna, and is one of 

the holy cities of the Hindoos. Here the people assemble 

annually by thousands, many having made the pilgrimage on 

foot, even from the remote regions of Hindostan. Here, many 

a weary traveler on life's journey has thrown himself into 

the flowing stream, believing that the easiest, quickest and 

surest way to heaven was through the sacred Ganges. 

THROWING CHILDREN INTO THE RIVER. 

Here, too, many a Pagan mother has cast her helpless infant 
into the dark engulfing waters of the Ganges. Our illustra- 
tion on the following page illustrates an incident of a mother 
about to sacrifice her babe in this way. She solemnly vowed 
to offer something very precious to that which she worshiped 
as God ; she had nothing more precious than the infant in 
her arms. 

On reaching the river she placed it on the bank, and then 
gathered the leaves and flowers of the lotus, the beautiful 
water lily, of which she plaited a wreath. She had brought 



344 



TEN YEARS 7 TRAVEL 



with her a small mat and a little lamp. She placed the wreath 
upon the mat,and then placed her baby in the midst of it. 
The lamp was then lighted and placed upon the mat, and the 
sacrifice was ready to be offered. With hands clasped and 
uplitted, she gazed a moment upon her child, and then pushed 
it off into the dark water. 




MOTHSS 



SACRIFICE. 



Another incident serves to illustrate the deep superstition of 
the pagan mind, and the deceptions practiced by the priests. 
A wealthy Brahmin woman being led to believe that the 
goddess demanded the sacrifice of her child with prayers 
offered by the priest, selected valuable gifts and taking a 
handsome sum of money, she carried them to the temple and 
presented them to him; he took the child, and proceeded with 
his followers to the river. The mother, agonized with grief, 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



345 



knelt beside him. Holding the baby up, he repeated his 
incantations and dropped it into the water. The mother on 
hearing the splash, rushed into the stream, caught her child 
and clasping it in her arms, was returning to the shore, when 
the priest ordered it to be taken from her, and the sacrifice 
made. Just as he was about perpetrating this vile deed, a 
band of British officers appeared and rescued the child. 



A LUCRATIVE BUSINESS FOR PRIESTS. 

The priests often made the performance of funeral rites, in 
the sacrifice of human lives, a lucrative business, until the 
practice of self immolation was prohibited by the English 
government. On one occasion a Hindoo resolved, under the 
persuasion of a priest, to drown himself, and had two large 
earthen jars tied to the ends of a bamboo which was. fastened 
across his shoulders. With these he was to dip water alter- 
nately, as he advanc- 
ed into the stream, 
until he should be 
drawn down by them. 
He had not gone far, 
however, until he 
changed his mind and 
undertook to retrace 
his steps ; but he was 
pursued by the priest, 
who was determined 
that he should drown. 
Seeing a band of En- 
glish officers on the 
opposite s h o re , the 
man started toward 
them. The priest was 
surprised by the same 
hoos sTTrixTG-x^ra-. sight ; and one of the 

officers being in the act of aiming his revolver at him, his 
fanaticism suddenly cooled. The intended victim was allowed 
to escape, and afterward became a convert to Christianity. 

44 




346 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



HOOK SWINGING IN INDIA. 



The Hindoos, like other heathen people, have devised various 
means by which they hope to obtain the favor of their gods. 
Some swing on great hooks, which are passed through the 
tender parts of their backs. Sometimes they swing for half 
an hour or more. The longer they can bear the torture of 
swinging, the more acceptable they suppose it will be to their 
god or goddess, especially to Kali, who delights in witnessing 
painful acts and the shedding of blood. It occasionally 
happens that the flesh in which the hooks are fastened 
gives way, in which case the poor creature is dashed to the 
ground. 

A DREADFUL MASSACRE. 

At Allahabad, for the first time, I crossed the Ganges. We 
spent a few weeks at Cawnpore, another large city on the banks 
of this stream. The place is memorable in the history of 
India for the dreadful massacre of the English during the 
mutiny of 1857. Wheeler, the British general, who had 
bravely held the fort for months, formed a treaty of peace with 
the native prince, Nana Sahib, agreeing to evacuate the place 
and go to Allahabad. His troops and the English families had 
embarked in boats on the river, and, not expecting any danger, 
they were joyfully partaking of a repast prepared for them. 
Suddenly, the treacherous natives from their ambush fired 
upon them; and rushing into the river, cut them down with 
sabres as they vainly strove to land. Having been previously 
deprived of their weapons, they were comparatively helpless 
and were unable to defend themselves. Scarcely a man of 1he 
whole company escaped ; but the women and children (about 
two hundred) were imprisoned. General Havelock, (then at 
Lucknow, heard of this dreadful tragedy, and marched with 
his troops to Cawnpore. But while he was besieging the town, 
and the captive women were filled with hope of speedy rescue, 
their prison doors were suddenly ooened, and armed natives 
rushed in and murdered them, andlthrew their bodies into an 
•adjacent well. After the town had been taken by the English, 



AROUND THE WORLD. 347 

and vengeance upon these murderous wretches had been dealt 
out in the most signal manner, the bodies of the unfortunate 
victims were recovered. They were then buried on each side 
of the well, the grounds were properly arranged and planted 
with the choicest trees and flowers of India. It is now called 
" Memorial Garden ; " and upon the well, surrounded by a 
handsome screen, stands a beautiful white marble monument 
of the form of an angel. 

While at Cawnpore, we occupied a bungalow just across the 
street from Memorial Garden— the spot of such sad and 
thrilling memories. We then visited the place of Wheeler's 
intrenchments, and the ghaut, or landing, on the Ganges where 
the English entered the boats. Descending th3 steps and 
dipping my hands into the dark waters, I mentally reviewed 
the tragic history of the place, and could but exclaim, " How 
dreadful are the records of this massacre!" 

MARVELOUS PALACES AND TOMBS OF LUCKNOW. 

Leaving Cawnpore, we crossed the Ganges a second time, 
and proceeded to Lucknow. This, the capital city of 
Oude, is situated on the banks of the Goomtee, a tributary 
of the Ganges. Before the mutiny, Lucknow — with its 
swelling domes and graceful minarets and Oriental life — was 
one of the wealthiest and handsomest cities in India. Even 
to-day, the tombs, palaces, monuments, and ruins furnish a 
theme of intense interest for the poet, the historian, and the 
lover of art. The Old Residency — now a mournful ruin — was 
the palace of the British Resident, and served the purpose of a 
fort for the English at Lucknow during the mutiny. 

The palace called the " Kaiser Bagh," was erected by the ex- 
king of Oude, who is imprisoned at Calcutta on the charge of 
treason against the British government in connection with the 
mutiny. It was his ambition to have a palace of surpassing 
grandeur; and for his niahals, or queens, he built the Kaiser 
Bagh with one thousand apartments, and furnished them in 
the magnificent styles of the various nations which the women 
represented. There are courts, and fountains, and marble kiosks, 
and parterres. The king had his seperate palace, with a golden 
dome and a royal arch-waj' which he could ascend, and thus 



348 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

have a panoramic view, both of his palaces and his whole 
family at once. 

This magnificent pile of buildings now stand vacant and 
desolate, while the sun casts his wierd shadows through the 
marble tracery, and birds rest upon the gilded terraces. 

The Barradurre is a marble pavilion, of which the columns 
and ceiling were at one time faced with silver filigree. The 
palace of the Chutter Munzel is surmounted by a golden dome, 
in the shape of an umbrella, which is an emblem of royalty, 
and dazzling in the sunlight, it appears like a great solar 
luminary. 

The Imambarra Hoosain Abad, the mausoleum of one of 
the kings of Oude, is a costly and magnificent structure. It 
contains two tombs, one of the king, and the other of his 
mother, side by side, and are overshadowed by a canopy of 
crimson velvet, trimmed with gold and set with precious 
stones. The walls are of polished marble, and the floor of 
smooth and brilliant porphyry. The interior dazzles with 
chandeliers, candelabra, and pier glass. The king left the 
mausoleum richly endowed and furnished with gold and 
silver plate, jewels and precious stones, to a fabulous 
amount. Every year, on the anniversary of the king's demise, 
the place is brilliantly illuminated. Myriads of lamps are 
emplo}^ed, and towers, minarets, kiosks — every nook and 
corner, are resplendent with light. The mausoleum is then 
literally one mass of gold, silver, crystal, and fire. These 
entertainments are kept up several nights, at a cost of six 
thousand dollars per night. 

TROPICAL VEGETATION— PALM TREES. 

The beauty of Lucknow is enhanced by the verdure and 
and luxuriance of the surrounding region. Such beauty is a 
source of ceaseless delight to the lover of nature who travels in 
India, and deserves special notice. The first thing that strikes 
the'eye of the traveler on entering the harbor at Bombay, is the 
palms and tropical trees that border the islands and crown the 
hills; and the last thing to fade from view on leaving Calcutta 
on board the steamer, is the palm-girt borders of the Hoogl}'. 
The palm tree is associated with both our first and last impres- 



AROUND THE WORLD. 349 

sions of India's sunny shores. Of all the trees within the 
tropics, not one engages the attention of the beholder more 
than does the palm tree. No other can recall so man}' associa- 
tions of utility and application to the arts. All travelers speak 
of the palm tree with enthusiasm- so graceful, so stately, so 
magnificent is the palm in its beauty. The most perfect of 
their kind have a tall, cylindrical stem, apparently without 
blemish, which rises from the earth to an immense height, 
and with such symmetry, that, slender as it seems, it does not 
convey one thought of weakness. At the summit is a crown 
of green plumes, looking like ostrich feathers of immense size; 
they are frequently twenty feet long, and move up and 
down with the slightest breeze, and, from their length, 
naturally droop at the ends. The whole tree conveys 
a profound idea of rectitude, self-possession, and dignity. 
Some have trunks as slender as the graceful reed ; others are 
even five feet thick, and some exhibit a towering stem one 
hundred to one hundred and eighty feet high. About one 
thousand species of the palm are known. Some grow by 
streams, others thrive best by the sea shore, others grow on 
high mountains, in forests or on plains, while others stand 
alone from all other trees. 

THE COCOA-NUT PALM AND ITS USES. 

The cocoa-nut palm is, perhaps, one of the most universally 
precious. Its trunk is comparatively thick, yet it is found as 
much as ninety feet high. The cocoa-nut has a large, green 
husk of a triangular form, which, when the nut falls into the 
water, faciliates its transport, for one of the triangular edges 
serves for a keel. 

Among the curiosities which traffic with the East has 
brought to our western countries, are peculiar double cocoa- 
nuts. They are found floating upon the waters of the Indian 
Ocean ; but the place of their growth has not yet been learned. 

The cocoa-nut was regarded by the Hindoos as an infallible 
remedy for every description of malady, even as an antitode 
for all kinds of poison. They called them the " treasure," and 
ascribed to them almost unheard of value. The faith which 
the human mind so often attaches to pretended remedies 



350 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

worked a great many cures, and the extravagance of the fables 
attached to the " treasure " only increased its efficacy. 

A single nut cost a fabulous price until 1770, when a French 
ship carried a cargo of them to Calcutta. During the same 
year an English ship carried a like quantity to Bombay. In 
1768 Captain Duchenin, from the Isle of France, discovered 
their origin to be the Seychelles Islands. 

A good cocoa-nut tree will yield from eighty to one hundred 
nuts annually. When fresh, they contain a milky fluid of a 
sweet, delicious flavor, which is deposited in the shell in the 
form of a pulp. When it hardens it is only fit to be grated for 
curries, custards, and puddings. Toddy is made from the 
flowers of the cocoa-nut tree. The end of the bud is cut off, a 
string is tied round just below, and it is beaten with a stick, 
when the juice flows. A good blossom will produce four or five 
pints a day, and yield juice for four or five weeks. 

The natives climb even the tallest trees by means of a leather 
strap which they pass round their waist and the trunk of the 
tree. This having been well secured, they plant their feet 
firmly against the body of the tree and carry the strap upwards 
with their hands, stepping upward as the strap is advanced. I 
have often seen the natives ascend trees in this manner. On 
reaching the canopy of leaves at the summit, they prepare the 
flower for the flow of the juice, and attach an earthen pot to 
receive^it as it flows. This, when fermented, forms an intoxi- 
cating liquor called arrack. 

Let those who are accustomed to making maple sugar, fancy 
themselves climbing trees one hundred feet high in the 
primitive manner just described, in order to attach pails to the 
branches in which to receive the sap, and they will ha /e some 
idea of the Hindoo's labor in obtaining his favorite drink. 

Not only the fruit and the flowers furnish food and drink for 
the natives, but every portion of the tree serves important 
uses. The husk of the cocoa-nut is used for cordage, for 
matressess, cushions, brushes, and for stuffing saddles. When 
burned into charcoal and mixed with lime, the hull is used for 
painting houses. 

Cocoa-nut oil is used to burn in lamps, and for this purpose 
nearly five thousand tons are yearly exported from Ceylon. A 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



351 







352 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

superior quality of cocoa-nut oil is used upon the hair, and is 
said to prevent its turning gray; and in some parts of India, 
where the heat is dry and intense, the oil is applied to the face 
and hands at night. 

The leaves of the palm are employed for thatching houses, 
forming a body quite impervious to rain. Torches are made 
from the leaves by binding the blades close to the mid-rib, 
which serves for a handle. The mid-rib is used in making 
umbrellas, and for other purposes for which whalebone may be 
employed. Palm leaf fans are obtained from one species of the 
cocoa-nut. The whole tree yields potash, which takes the place 
of soap. A fibrous substance round the base of the leaf is 
stripped off and made into paper, and also into a coarse kind 
of cloth called gunny. Elephants feed on the young leaves, 
and the natives boil the buds, which taste like cabbage, and 
also make good pickles. 

THE DATE PALM. 

The date palm rarely blossoms before the twelfth year. 
Often as many as twelve thousand flowers are contained in 
one spatha. The date palm was the first which drew the 
attention of the botanist to the sexes of plants, a fact learned 
from the Persians. Says Michaux, " when their country was 
ravished by an enemy, they collected quantities of pollen from 
the male palm, and kept it hermetically sealed in order to 
sprinkle it over the female trees when the foes were gone." 
The palms mentioned in the Bible are supposed to have been 
the date. A more beautiful fruit than the date, as it grows, 
can scarcely be found. Some red, some almost black, and 
others of a golden yellow (according to the variety) hang in 
rich profusion from the crown of feathery branches. The 
yellow and red in the evening sunshine look like gigantic 
bunches of gold and coral beads. 

On the areca, or catechu palm grows the celebrated betel 
nuts, sometimes called penang nuts. They are eaten mixed 
with lime and wrapped in the leaf of the pepper betel. 

THE COCOA. 

The cocoa tree, so often confounded with the cocoa-rat£ tree, 
is about equal to a good-sized apple tree; the pod that encases 



AROUND THE WORLD, 



353 



the bean from which chocolate is made, is in shape somewhat 
like a lemon, but three times as large, and of a deep orange 
color ; some varieties being so deep as to be almost red. The 
pods grow on the branches and on the stem itself, quite down 
to the ground. The boughs are not low, and in looking 
through a cocoa grove it presents the appearance of a miniature 




-&.IS" O^ZFE^I^TGr TO THE GA1TG-ES.- Page 344, 

forest hung with thousands of golden lamps. A more lovely 
scene can not be imagined ; it is perfectly unique. After the 
pods are picked, they are cut open with a cutlass. The beans, 
after being closely packed in a barrel, and having gone through 
a process of sweating, are dried in the sun. When the cocoa is 
thoroughly dried, it is put into bags and shipped to other 
countries. 

45 



354 TEN YEARS 1 TRAVEL 



BIG TREES OF INDIA. 

In the Himalayas there are trees which almost rival the cele- 
brated "Big Trees" of California. At Simla — the seat of the 
British Indian government during the summer season — is a 
species called the Cedrus deodra (oderless cedar), which is 
interesting, not only because of its immense size and beauty, 
but from the fact that it is almost identical with the cedars of 
Lebanon. 

These cedars flourish at an altitude of twelve thousand feet 
above the level of the sea, and have even been found amid the 
eternal snows. Some attain a height of from one to two 
hundred feet, with a circumference of from thirty to forty feet. 

Among the great variety of trees that beautify Simla, are the 
laurel, the holly, the rhododendron, and the evergreen oak. 
On the Outer Hills of the Himalayas, the pine is of a deep 
shining green, and with a resinous odor, while, during the dry 
season on the plains, it is pale, faded, and half dead. 

THE BAMBOO. 

The banks of the rivers and lakes, or marshes, and generally 
the low lands of India, are for the most part, covered with 
forests of bamboo, a species of cane which frequently attains 
the height of sixty feet, and at times grows so prodigious as to 
overtop all the trees of the forest. These bamboo jungles 
swarm with monkeys, and are also the retreat of tigers and 
other large ravenous beasts. 

The bamboo is an evergreen, and is applied to various useful 
purposes by the natives. With it they construct their light 
rude dwellings, as well as the frame-work of a kind of boat 
resembling the caracles, or vitilia navigia of the ancient Britons. 

Hyder Ali, one of the most formidable foes of the English 
in their early struggles in Southern India, carried about with 
him in all his campaigns a great number of these light boats, 
the frames of which were borne by two men, while two others 
carried the skins with which they were covered when used. 
Each one of these boats was capable of carrying twenty-eight 
men, or a piece of cannon; and in a quarter of an hour could 
be launched on any lake or river which obstructed his march. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 855 

The joints of the ham boo are employed for pitchers in which 
to carry water, and in China the canes are used for pipes in 
conveying water from one part of a city to another. 

THE BANANA TREE. 

The banana groves lend an exquisite charm to the gardens. 
The broad leaves — of a lively green — shut out the scorching 
rays of a tropical sun like a velvet curtain, and droop over 
the walls with a freshness that regales the passer-by. On the 
fruit-stalk, a deep, rich, purple, cup-shaped sheath encloses 
myriads of flowers — some budding, others fully blown, and 
still others forming into fruit, while just above the sheath on 
the same stalk, are bananas in every degree of growth and 
ripening, from the smallest to the fully matured, rich, yellow 
fruit. 

Another tree of India, bearing a peculiar fruit about one 
yard in length, is the ram-rod tree. It is of very rapid growth, 
often attaining a height of five or six feet in three months, 
but never becomes a tree of any considerable size. 

Many gum-producing trees are found in every part of India; 
but the most common species is the acacia. There are two 
varieties, the Acacia Arabica and the Acacia Modesta. Both 
yield the gum Arabic of commerce. The former gives a clear 
pure gum ; but the latter furnishes a kind darker and more 
adulterated. The trees have very light foliage, insufficient to 
conceal their dark branches. They continue in bloom for 
months, with flowers of bright golden yellow. 

THE BANYAN AND OTHER REMARKABLE TREES. 

The banyan tree grows to a towering height, and may be 
seen for miles before it is reached. One of its peculiar charac- 
teristics is its aerial roots, which drop down from even the 
loftiest branches and fasten their tendrils in the earth. The 
broad spreading canopy of leafy thickness strikes the beholder 
Avith deepest admiration, and to the mind of the superstitious 
Hindoo the tree is an object of worship. Here he places 
some hideous idol and offers his devotions. So many trees are 
held sacred by the Hindoo that the words of the prophet in 



356 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

reference to the idolatry of the Jews, where he speaks of idols 
under every green tree, are frequently recalled.' 

A beautiful tree called the Neem, has leaves similar to those of 
the ash tree of North America. This species is very abundant 
on the plains, and forms a delightful shade along the avenues 
of the city and the thoroughfares in the country. 

One of the delights of India is the mango tree, which is the 
size of a large horse-chestnut, and is thickly covered with leaves 
and flowers in greater profusion than any tree, except, possibly, 
the olive. The fruit is of a beautiful golden color, streaked 
with red. A tree in full bearing is indeed a sight worth seeing, 
Hindoo kings formerly planted— as acts of merit— as many as 
a hundred thousand mango trees in one orchard, and gave 
them to the Brahmins, or to the public. The orchard is what 
chiefly avails to attach the peasant to his native soil. He feels 
a superstitious predilection for the trees planted by his ances- 
tors, and derives comfort and profit from their fruit. It is a 
custom in the East to rent trees, In India a mango tree rents 
tor fifty cents annually, and a tamyrind tree for the same 
price; a. cocoa-nut tree for twenty-five cents; and a betel-nut 
and a lime tree for half the price of a cocoa-nut tree. The 
palms are rented chiefly for the sake of the liquor which is 
extracted from them, although the use of any intoxicating 
beverage is forbidden by both the Hindoo and the Moham- 
medan religions. 

SPLENDID ROADS. 

Perhaps no country in the world has better roads than 
India ; and, no difference what the distance, they run — like 
the ancient Roman highways — in straight lines directly from 
one large city to another. They are so solid and so well made 
that they are usually termed pukka or stone roads. 

Fine shade trees line these thoroughfares. The acacia, the 
neem, the tamarind and the mango, are extensively employed 
for this purpose. These trees, brilliant with flowers, ladened 
with fruit, and musical with songs of birds, lend such enchant- 
ment to the way as to cause one to fancy that he is traveling 
through a paradise. From Jummoo to the nearest railway 
station— a distance of sixty miles — the entire road is shaded 



AROUND THE WOULD, 



857 



mmm 



BUSS* 

■HI 




amUm 




.A. ESO^,3D Z^T .&. TROPICAL POEBST. 



358 TEN YEARS 1 TRAVEL 

by acacia trees. At the time we visited Jummoo, the first 
rains of the season had just fallen, and streams of water 
flower! at each side of the road. The light airy foliage and 
the dark branches of the trees were reflected from the surface 
of the water. Floating clouds and passing travelers were all 
mirrored in the pools and lakes which flooded the plains. The 
bursting flowers of the gum trees sent forth a rich fragrance, 
and lent a magical effect to the scene. It is true that there was 
much sameness in the various separate views, yet it was all 
but impossible to close the eyes upon them, even under the 
glare of the bright light and clear skies of the Himalayas. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 359 



CHAPTER III. 

Plants of Commerce — Rice and Its Culture— The Pro- 
duction and Use of Opium — Cotton Fields and Manu- 
factures — Dyes — Tea — Sugar Cane — The Rose and the 
Jessamine — Monsoons — Guests of a King— Kristna Lift* 
ing a Mountain— Killing a Lizard God> 

JI'NDIA possesses many plants whose products are valuable 
fl as articles of commerce. Chief among these are cotton, 
^ flax, hemp, opium, tobacco, indigo, saffron, madder, betel, 
sesamum, jalap, cinchonia, cassia, cinnamon, sandal wood, 
gamboge, gum lac, and gum camphor. Its principal alimen- 
tary products are rice, wheat, barley, maize, beans, lentils, 
sugar, tea and coffee. 

In preparing the ground for any kind of crop, cows and oxen 
are used instead of horses. The plow in use is of a very prim- 
itive sort. It consists of a crooked piece of wood, sharpened at 
one end, and covered with a plate of iron which forms the 
share. A wooden handle is attached to the other end, by 
which the driver guides it. The oxen are kept apart by a long 
straight piece of wood or bamboo, fastened to the plow and to 
the yoke, and which also serves for a kind of tongue. 

RICE AND ITS CULTURE. 

Rice — of which twenty-seven varieties are grown— is perhaps 
the chief staple product of the country. A few statements 
concerning its culture may be of interest. The seed is never 
sown until after the rain falls. Then, if the season is favorable, 
the ground is plowed for the first time about the middle of 
February, and a second time with more care in March or April, 
when, also, the ground is weeded. 

About the middle of May the seed is scattered upon the 
ground, and harrowed in by an instrument resembling a 



360 



TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 




AROUND THE WORLD. 361 

ladder, on which a man stands to weight it down. 

The field is carefully watched during the day time to keep 
off the birds. For this purpose a small platform is erected in 
the middle of the field on four posts, on which the guard — 
armed with a sling and clay balls, takes his stand — in order to 
kill or scare away the crows, peacocks, and other depredators. 
When the plant has reached the height of about six inches, a 
piece of wood, filled with spikes, is drawn over it in order to 
prevent its growing too rank, and to loosen the earth and 
destroy the weeds. 

The farms being without fences, when the grain is nearly 
ripe, the farmer erects a stage of bamboo in the fields, high 
enough to be a refuge from wild beasts, covers it over with 
thatch, and places a servant there to watch — especially during 
the night time — to keep off stray buffaloes and wild hogs. 

Harvest commences in about four months after the sowing 
of the seed. The grain is bound up in sheaves and taken to 
the threshing-floor— a smooth, hard plat of ground. Here the 
grain is separated from the straw by oxen fastened together 
and driven around upon it until the straw can be removed 
with forks. The rice is then cleared from the husks by large 
hand fans ; one person letting the grain fall from his hands 
while another winnows away the chaff. 

In April, other lands are prepared for a second and principal 
crop. The grain sown at that time is transplanted in July, 
after the rains have set in. The rice plants stand in water 
more or less during the three following months. In November 
or December, this crop is reaped; and, where the land is good, 
a third crop is sown in January and gathered in April. In 
some districts even a fourth crop is obtained. 

THE PRODUCTION AND USE OF OPIUM. 

We were in the district of Malwa during the blooming of 
the poppy plant, from which opium is obtained. We saw the 
method of extracting the opium, and learned some facts about 
the culture of the crop. The ground, after being fertilized, is 
plowed and laid off into square plats. The seed is sown in the 
month of December, and reaches its maturity in about three 
months. The appearance of the fields in bloom is one of 



362 TEN YEARS 1 TRAVEL 

extraordinary beauty. In Malwa, the flowers are of a variety 
of colors, red, white, yellow, and variegated; but in the dis- 
tricts of Lucknow and Bengal they are entirely white. When 
the flower falls off and the pods are yet green, the business of 
extracting the opium commences. The laborers chiefly are 
women. The process consists in passing through the fields and 
taking each pod between the fingers of the left hand, while, 
with a small three-pronged metal fork held in the right hand, 
incisions are made from the bottom of the pod upwards, on 
three sides. From these incisions the juice flows and is dried 
by the heat of the sun. On the following day, the women 
collect the opium by scraping it from the pods with their 
thumb nails. It requires four or five days to exhaust the juice 
of a pod. Each acre of ground usually yields from twelve to 
thirteen pounds of opium. This, when new, sells in Malwa at 
two dollars a pound; while in England the same is valued at 
five dollars an ounce. 

For the purposes of commerce, the opium is made into flat, 
roundish cakes, five or six inches in diameter, and from four 
to eight ounces in weight. 

Malwa opium, when good, is of a light brown color, and 
becomes hard, dry, and brittle. Upon analysis it has been 
found that good opium yields ten per cent, of morphia. Many 
of the native princes of India are much addicted to the use of 
opium ; and at the durbars either it or the bera is passed around 
to all present. This latter consists of gum catechu, to which 
is added lime and spices (such as cloves, cinnamon, betel-nut, 
and cardamon seeds), with some perfume ; the whole being 
wrapped in a banana leaf, and ornamented with gilded stars. 

When either opium or the bera is offered, it must be taken ; 
to decline is to offend ; but it may be held in the mouth 
awhile and then spit out. 

Eating opium together is the most inviolable pledge ; and 
an agreement ratified by this ceremony is stronger than any 
adjuration. As a general thing, intoxicating beverages are 
held secondary in importance to the opiate. It has been 
remarked that the Rajpoots — so renowned for war and chivalry 
—have been robbed of half their virtues by this pernicious 
habit. If a Rajpoot pays a visit of ceremony, the first question 



AROUND THE WORLD. 863 

is, " Umul kya?" (have you had your opiate?) and the reply is, 
" Umul kas" (take your opiate). The habit of giving opium to 
children is very prevalent in India. The practice, too, is not 
confined to native women alone, as the ill health, wasted 
forms, and great mortality among the children bear evidence. 

COTTON FIELDS AND MANUFACTURES. 

Cotton was described by Herodotus as a plant indigenous to 
India; and to this day it is extensively and profitably culti- 
vated there. It grows to the height of three or four feet, and 
somewhat resembles a currant bush in size and verdure. It is 
usually cultivated separately, in rows about two feet apart, 
much like Indian corn in its earlier stages. But sometimes 
rice and cotton are grown together in the same field. They 
both are planted at the same time at the commencement of 
the rainy season. The cotton is planted in rows, between 
which the rice is sowed in drills; and they grow and thrive 
together, each one being no hindrance to the other. The rice 
is ripe and is reaped in about four months from its sowing, 
while the cotton requires a longer time to reach perfection. 

Soon after the rice harvest is over the cotton plant puts 
forth a beautiful yellow flower, with a crimson eye on each 
petal. This is succeeded by a green pod filled with a stringy 
pulp. The pod turns brown and hard as it ripens, and then 
separates into three divisions, containing the cotton. A 
luxuriant field, exhibiting at the same time the expanding 
blossoms, the bursting capsules, and the snowy flakes of ripe 
cotton, presents a most beautiful sight. 

The manufacture of cotton and linen fabrics has been 
carried to the highest perfection in Hindostan. In delicacy 
and fineness the textiles of no other nation can vie therewith. 
The spinning of the cotton thread is done by hand by the 
women of all castes. The finest muslins in the world are 
manufactured in Dacca, Shantipoor, Sonasza, and Vicrampoor. 
Sometimes a weaver occupies as much as four months time in 
making a single piece, which sells for no less than two hundred 
dollars. This muslin is so fine, so pure and colorless, that it 
can not be seen when it is spread upon the grass and is wet 
with dew. An embassador once received a present of a cocoa- 



364 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

nut shell set with jewels and containing a turban thirty yards 
in length. This cloth was so exceptionably fine that it was 
hardly discernible by the touch. 

The cotton manufactures of India are no more admired for 
the delicate texture and exquisite beauty of the cloth, than 
for the elegance with which some of them are embroidered, 
and the beautiful color of the cloth with which they are 
adorned. 

DYES, TEA, AND SUGAR CANE. 

India is celebrated for the number and excellence and 
abundance of its materials for dyeing various colors. The 
deep blue color held in the highest esteem by the Romans, was 
known as indicum. From India also, was obtained the mater- 
ials for dyeing bright red. In Indian manufactures at the 
present time, blue and red continue to be used, and are very 
conspicuous for their beauty of luster and their permanence of 
color. 

Tea is cultivated in the various parts of India, in the outer 
ranges of the Himalaya mountains (which go by the name of 
hills), in Bengal and in the Neilgherry hills, which are about 
twelve degrees north of the Equator. In 1874, India exported 
to England eighteen million pounds of tea; in 1875, twenty- 
five million pounds. For this, England paid ten million 
dollars. In India the average yield is about one hundred and 
twenty-five pounds to the acre. 

Sugar cane has been cultivated in Bengal from remote 
antiquity. It is said to have been introduced from India into 
Arabia, and from thence into Europe and Africa. Even the 
derivation of the name "sugar" adds favor to the supposition 
that this commodity was introduced into the western countries 
from India. The Sanskrit word for sugar is sarkara, whence 
are derived the Persian shakar, the Arabic sokkar, and the Latin 
saccharum, and also the English sugar. 

THE ROSE AND THE JESSAMINE. 

The flowers of India are innumerable and in many instances 
of extraordinary beauty. To describe these minutely is the 



AROUND THE WORLD. 365 

work of the botanist. The favorite flower in India, as else- 
where, is the rose. This, besides furnishing poets and lovers 
with the most beautiful similes, produces the attar — that 
exquisite essence which surpasses every other perfume. As 
the manufacturing of the after is an object of much import- 
ance, large fields of roses are cultivated in the vicinity of the 
large cities. Here, in the spring and summer, the air is deeply 
impregnated with a delicious odor. 

A fine species of the white rose perfumes the vales of Delhi, 
and is found also in the valley of Cashmere. The mode of 
extracting the essence of roses is said to haye been accidentally 
discovered by the favorite Sultana of Jehanger, of India, who 
styled himself the " conquerer of the world." To please the 
emperor, she caused the bath in the garden of the palace to be 
rilled to the brim with rose water, and the action of the sun 
concentrated the oily particles which were found floating upon 
the surface. Supposing that the water had become impure, 
the attendants carefully skimmed away the oily particles, and 
in so doing the little globules burst, and emitted a delicious 
odor. This suggested the idea of artificially producing the 
essence by imitating the process of nature. 

The large flowering jessamine is the favorite of the ladies of 
the harems and zenanas. It is seen in the courts of their 
dwellings, filling the air with a delicious perfume ; and the 
white flowers are wreathed into garlands to adorn their ebony 
tresses. 

MONSOONS. 

Before the rains, the country looks like a desert ; but witii 
the setting. in of the wet season the change is almost miracu- 
lous. In a single night, almost, the slumbering vegetation 
springs forth, transforming the dusty plain into a luxuriant 
meadow. 

During the monsoons an abundance of rain falls in a few 
hours. The parched earth soon drinks its fill, and streams 
flow, and lakes are formed, until the words of the prophet are 
literally fulfilled, " in the wilderness shall waters break out 
and streams in the desert. And the parched ground shall 
become a pool, and the thirsty land springs of water." 



366 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

Rains alone render India a habitable country ; their partial 
discontinuance produces famine. The winter season from 
October to March, is the most delightful time of the year in 
India " The country," as an enthusiastic Briton expressed it, 
" is a garden from one end of it to the other, and Cashmere is a 
paradise." Beauty and joy are rife everywhere; in the balmy 
air, in the golden sunshine, and on the verdant earth. The 
wildest and homeliest regions are equally varied, and present 
new and ever changing scenes. There it may be said in truth 
that 

" Mighty nature bounds as from her birth, 
The sun is in the heavens and life on earth, 
Flowers in the valley, splendor in the beam, 
Health on the gale and freshness in the stream. 

GUESTS OF A KING. 

From Lucknow we went to Bhurtpore, a city densely popu- 
lated. It is strongly fortified and well garrisoned. In one 
garrison the cannon were drawn by thirty camels. This place 
withheld two seiges by the English, and repulsed them with a 
loss of three thousand men. 

When we arrived, the Maharajah was at the depot, and 
received us cordially. In his retinue was a barouche drawn 
by camels with riders in bright uniform. We were invited to 
take seats in this carriage, which was kept for our use during 
our stay of one month at Bhurtpore. During this time we 
were guests of the king, and were attended by his servants. 

We were taken to visit the palace of Dieg, thirty miles from 
Bhurtpore, which is one of the strongholds of the kingdom. 
Here we fared sumptuously, and occupied the same luxurious 
apartments which once were occupied as the zenana, by the 
wives of the king. These were supplied with marble screens, 
cushioned divans, and beds furnished with eider down and 
satin. 

This grand old palace, which has been the home of Bhurt- 
pore royalty for nearly two hundred years, is a treasury of 
artistic workmanship. We walk upon marble floors; we behold 
marble walls, inlaid with precious stones; we look through 
windows with marble slabs instead of glass, cut into tracery as 



AROUND THE WORLD. 367 

delicate as lace work; and we view lofty sculptured columns 
and graceful Saracenic arches. While we listen to the songs 
of many birds of splendid plumage, our senses are regaled with 
the rich perfume of flowers. 

KRISTNA LIFTING A MOUNTAIN. 

From Dieg we went to Gordan, another town of the Bhurt- 
phore province, noted for the traditions about the exploits of 
Kristna, the deified hero, who in the Hindoo faith corresponds 
to Christ in the Christian religion. We were shown a moun- 
tain a mile long, and were told that Kristna held it up on his 
finger at one time during a thunder-storm to afford shelter for 
the milk maids. A learned Hindoo on being asked if he could 
credit such stories, replied, " It is so recorded in the Vedas (the 
Hindoo work on religion), and is for us to receive the same as 
the Christians do the teachings of their Bible." We often find 
the Hindoo men well read, intelligent, and models of politeness 
and courtesy. 

KILLING A LIZARD GOD. 

We drove out frequently in the afternoon to some of the 
king's delightful gardens, to enjoy the fruit, the flowers, and 
the fountains. In one of these, wild peacocks and other large 
birds rested upon the tall trees at night, and their beautiful 
feathers lay scattered upon the ground. I admired them 
greatly, and the Hindoos were delighted to gather them 
for me. On one occasion, seeing a feather near the side-walk 
that I much desired, I attempted to wait upon myself, and 
unconscious of danger, I picked it up, when I saw a large 
poisonous lizard running rapidly towards me. I sprang to the 
side-walk and reached the carriage, thinking I had escaped it. 
I had on a light dress of India mull, and the monster, as I 
turned, had struck its claws into my dress. So much for not 
keeping my face to the foe. We went back to the bungalow, 
and after tea I went into the bed room and took off my peplon, 
when to my horror I saw the lizard among the folds of my 
dress, near the waist. With a sudden dash I threw it off, and 
it fell behind the bed. I was not long in reaching the door 
and in calling aloud, " Consammer I " (cook.) He came up with 



368 TEN YEARS 1 TRAVEL 

the usual deliberate manner of the Hindoo, and when I had 
given him a rapid description of what had happened, finishing 
with "come quick and kill it/" I was surprised that he did not 
stir. He began telling me that it was a most fortunate event, 
that it was one of their gods incarnate, who had deigned to 
visit us for some good purpose. I reasoned with him that it 
might get on the bed, that it would be impossible for us to 
occupy the room ; but to no avail. It was one of their gods 
and it could not be touched. Tired out, I exclaimed, " god or 
no god, it must be killed ! " whereupon he turned round and 
walked off. 

Calling again, the bearer came in. He informed me that he 
could not kill the lizard; that none of the servants would dare 
to do it, for the reason which had been given; and that the 
king himself would not expect them to do so if he knew about 
it ; that in all other things they were, as they always had been, 
most pleased to do our service ; but to molest one of their gods 
was something out of the question. " Take him out alive 
then," I said. He could not do that — it would spoil the good 
luck of the house. I finished with, "Understand now, that I 
shall kill him, even if he should be Jupiter or Saturn," hoping 
that they might conclude to come to the rescue of their deity ; 
but at the same time doubting very much my ability to fulfill 
my words, being wholly inexperienced in killing reptiles. I 
took a long iron rod, used to fasten the window shutter, and 
went into the room where I found the lizard coiled up in the 
corner under the bed. I cautiously got upon the bed, which 
stood ouc from the wall, so that I had a chance for battle. 
Knowing how much depended upon the certainty of my aim, 
I hesitated a moment, then struck it with a sharp quick blow, 
and it writhed in agony around the rod. It measured about 
three fourths of a yard in length, had long sharp claws, and 
was of a venomous species. This was my only experience 
with the reptiles of India. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 369 



CHAPTER IV. 

Delta of the Ganges — Animals and Royal Menageries — 
Tiger Hunting — Trapping Wild Animals — The Royal 
Chase — Elephants and Camels — The Birds of India and 
Their Tricks — The Climbing Fish — A Terrible Flood — 
Garrisoning a City With Crocodiles — A Cobra in Bed 
With a Landlord — Serpent Charmers. 

fHE Delta of the Ganges is a mere labyrinth of creeks 
and rivers, called the Sunderbuncl, from the forests of 
^ sundari trees, which cover the soil and encroach upon 
the waters. This region is a thickly wooded, swampy belt, 
with impenetrable jungles, inhabited only by wild beasts and 
reptiles, except some wood cutters, and a few fanatical fakirs, 
who claim to possess charms sufficient to repel all destructive 
animals. 

The cultivation of those lands is supposed to be imprac- 
ticable. The forests, however, furnish an exhaustless supply 
of wood for fuel, ship-building, and other purposes. Moreover, 
from that part of the coast, they present a natural barrier 
against invasion, so strong as to be impassable by any consid- 
erable armed force. 

ANIMALS AND ROYAL MENAGERIES. 

The wild beasts, the reptiles, the birds and the domesticated 
animals form some of the prominent features of life in India. 
In the extensive forests and the almost pathless jungles of 
this extraordinary country, the principle of life appears to be 
developed with singular activity. The elephant, the rhinoc- 
eros, the tiger, the lion, the hyena, and the wolf inhabit the 
same plains as do the camel, the ass, the antelope, the sheep, 
the rabbit and the squirrel. To those not possessed of 
sufficient courage to venture upon a hunting excursion, there 

47 



370 



TEN YEARS 1 TRAVEL 



is afforded an opportunity to see royal Bengal tigers, leopards, 
and other monsters of the jungles and plains, in the menageries 
of the various kings and princes of India. 

The king of Bhurtpore had a number of cheetah*, or hunting 
leopards and lynxes, which were kept under shelter near the 
street through which we often passed. In the morning, 
though the weather was not cold, each animal, in addition to 



;Kg§§§gg 





TI3EE HT7UTHTG- 



Si '■ : ■ '" 

3iT XlsTIDXJ^.. 



its soft, sleek, and beautiful hair, was wrapped up to the very 
ears in a warm quilted cover. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 371 



TIGER HUNTING. 

' In India, as in many other countries, wild beasts existing in 
a state of natural independence not only dispute man's empire 
over the land, but destroy or injure human life and hinder 
the progress of civilization. In such places, skill by the 
hunter is deemed a valuable accomplishment, and the chase 
becomes a sport worthy of gentlemen. To men who possess 
youth, strength and leisure, it is not only amusement, but 
also a duty. Nevertheless it is at times very dangerous, as 
many a poor man loses his life, especially in tiger hunting, 
and furnishes a rich feast to his hungry foe, which is extremely 
voracious. At one place, I saw two tigers consume at one 
meal fifty pounds of meat, including the bones. Being so 
well fed, they seemed as tame and harmless as cats. Tigers 
are most destructive when caring for their cubs; it is the 
tigress when weaning her young that is called the " man-eating 
tiger." At Bhopal, where we spent several weeks, we heard of 
a tigress which had carried off thirty persons before she was 
killed. 

TRAPPING WILD ANIMALS. 

There are various methods of obtaining wild animals when 
it is desired to capture them alive. In some cases a large cage 
is made of wood and is strengthened with iron clasps. In this, 
a kid is placed as a bait ; and as a tiger enters, the door closes 
behind him and he is taken alive. Sometimes a sheep is 
placed in some spot frequented by tigers, and a considerable 
quantity of straw, mixed with some glutinous substance is 
placed around it. The tiger, heedless of the snare, rushes on 
his prey and becomes entangled in the straw, where he may be 
easily taken or killed. It has been suggested by Buckland, 
the naturalist, to attract the tiger into traps and pitfalls by 
means of valerian, a drug of which tigers are exceedingly fond. 

Leopards are sometimes taken in pits covered over with 
grass, but by the fall it frequently happens that they break a 
limb or get greatly bruised. The Mogul emperor, Akbar, 
invented a kind of trap door, which let the animal down and 
then immediately closed upon it. They are also caught by 



372 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

snares suspended by iron rings from the trees under which 
they commonly resort, and so arranged that they entangle 
themselves in the springs as they rub against the trunk, or 
sport about for their amusement. 

THE CHEETAH OR HUNTING LEOPARD. 

The leopard (cheetah) is easily tamed, and soon learns to 
employ his destructive powers for the sport of man in cap- 
turing other animals. The Hindoos are pasionate admirers of 
field sports ; but they by no means confine their attacks to the 
larger or fiercer animals, which are the only game truly noble. 
They derive enjoyment from the chase of half tame, and, as it 
were, civilized animals, like the hare or the deer, and exult in 
seeing them falter, pant and fall, in terror and agony beneath 
the paw of the cheetah. 

THE ROYAL CHASE. 

In most parts of India, dense forests make a fine retreat for 
game of every species; and some of the Maharajahs reserve 
certain tracts of land in their kingdoms for this purpose. The 
Maharajah of Cashmere preserved for hunting ground, twenty 
miles on each side of the town of Jummoo, along the foot of 
the hills and over the plains. The hunting season is during 
the cold weather, from October until March. Notice is given 
by Sepoys the night before the hunt, in different villages. The 
Maharajah and his court go out on elephants at sunrise, 
attended by a long procession of horsemen and lancers, 
orderlies and attendants. These, all accompanied by the 
doctors, constitute a company often numbering two thousand. 

The Ahairia, or Spring Hunt, is celebrated during the first 
festival of the year (Vasanti, the lovely goddess of the Spring), 
which commences in January and continues forty days. The 
dresses worn on the day of the chase are wholly, or partly 
green ; and are distributed by the king himself among his 
chiefs and followers. 

When the game is found, the horsemen rush their steeds 
after it at full speed, bounding like an antelope over every 
barrier, through the thick jungle covert, or up the rocky steep. 
With lances balanced in the air, they drive them with great 



AROUND THE WORLD. 37B 

precision at the game. The chase is full of danger as well as 
sport. The contest with the animals often becomes very excit- 
ing, and the ground not only becomes covered with the blood of 
the victim of the chase, but often with that of the horse and 
the rider. 

These hunting expeditions are often occasions of much 
ceremony and great pomp. In the days of the Moguls, the 
sovereigns equipped themselves with the utmost splendor, and 
modern princes endeavor to imitate their ancient customs. 
The emperor Akbar, was attended by a thousand leopards on 
his hunting. An imperial establishment for the cheetah or 
leopard used in the chase, was a most magnificent building. 
These hunting leopards were provided with coverings of rich 
brocade, and collars and chains of gold. The collars were 
inlaid with precious stones. The animals were provided with 
silk or woolen carpets for their apartments. A carriage drawn 
by horses was provided for each animal, into which the cheetah 
was placed. Two attendants accompanied each carriage. 

When, on these hunting expeditions, the cheetah perceives 
the game, he leaps nimbly from his carriage, and, artfully 
avoiding discovery, all the while closely watching his prey, 
he creeps forward until within about seventy yards from it. 
Then he rushes upon it at full speed, and rarely does his 
victim escape. 

The speed of the cheetah is astonishing; for, although the 
antelope is considered the swiftest species of the deer, even 
after giving it seventy or eighty yards the start of him, he 
usually can overtake it within three or four hundred yards. 
The cheetah, on overtaking the deer, by a most powerful and 
dextrous stroke of its paw,- overthrows it; and in the same 
instant seizes it by the throat and does not quit its hold until 
respiration ceases. 

Deer are also hunted with deer. In this kind of chase, a 
snare is fastened about a tame deer in such a manner that 
when a wild deer attempts to engage with him, he is entangled 
by the horns and thus secured until the hunters come up and 
seize him. 

To the Brahmin, the antelope is a sacred animal. In the 
Institutes of Menu, the country in which it is lawful for a 



374 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

follower of the Brahminical religion to live, is determined by 
certain tokens, as for instance: That land on which the black 
antelope naturally grazes is held fit for the performance of 
sacrifices. This animal is extremely susceptible to the influ- 
ence of musical sounds, by which it may be brought to a state 
of extreme docility and familiarity with men. 

EL.ERHANTS AND CAMELS. 

India is noted for the vast number of its elephants ; and in 
the forests of Southern India many wild ones are yet to be 
found; also buffaloes and tigers of the largest size; and here 
immense herds of monkeys may be seen. Many of the natives 
believe that a body so majestic and grand as that of the 
elephant must be inhabited by the soul of a king or hero, and 
the white elephant is especially venerated as the abode of 
some deceased prince. 

An elephant carries a load about equal to sixteen oxen, and 
travels forty miles per day. For this and other reasons, they 
are extensively used in war. They are tractable, and when 
wounded are quite patient. For the purposes of war, some 
kings have kept from tw r o to five thousand: History shows 
that the emperor Akbar never had less than five thousand 
elephants in his stables, exclusive of those required for hunt- 
ing purposes. He was the greatest of all the Mohammedan 
rulers, and was the contemporary of Queen Elizabeth. 

Most of the Indian princes estimate their strength and 
grandeur, both in time of peace and of war, by the number of 
their elephants. Although an animal of ungainly form, yet 
the housings and trappings used on those employed as bearers 
of princes, have been richly bedecked, surpassing in expense 
and gorgeousness anything worn by other domesticated 
animals. The Prince of Wales rode in a howdah of solid gold 
at Beroda. 

The greatest care is taken in their management and decora- 
tion. After their daily feeding, bathing, oiling, and rubbing, 
they are often painted with various colors about the head 
and ears; and their tusks are encircled by gold and silver 
bands, the sharp points being sawed off. 



AROUND THE WORLD, 375 

Camels are quite numerous in Moultan, the north-western 
part of India, and throughout the country they are used as 
beasts of burden. This animal is quite remarkable for its 
speed, traveling seventy to eighty miles per day. His nature 
is obstinate and revengeful. When he has traveled until 
wearied and hungry, he commences roaring and running off 
the road, and if restrained he falls down and moans piteously 
until fed. 

REVERENCE FOR CATTLE. 

In India, cattle are used extensively for agricultural and 
general purposes instead of horses. Their owners take great 
delight in ornamenting them with white, red, or orange spots 
and stars, and in painting the horns red or green, or even their 
legs and hoofs. The same idea of gaiety is carried out in the 
care of horses. A white horse with the tail and legs dyed 
red or orange, and the mane plaited with silk and ribbons, 
interspersed with silver and roses, is exactly to the Hindoos 
fancy. 

The cow is held sacred by the Hindoo; the image of a cow 
in marble is placed in their temples for worship. We saw a 
man in one of the prisons of Rajpootana, whose sentence, 
according to the Shaster (Hindoo Law), was imprisonment tor 
life, for cutting the throat of an ox. An English regiment in 
passing through the territory of Dholpore halted, and, contrary 
to the stipulations of the treaty with the native prince, slaugh- 
tered an ox, which they were calmly preparing to convert into 
beef-steak, when the king's courtiers came upon them and were 
filled with horror and grief Taking their seats upon the 
ground, they refused to be comforted, exclaiming in broken 
voice; " Gaee Mara! "—they have killed a cow. 

The tail of the Thibet cow is used to brush away dust and 
insects, when kings and princes are in state processions, or 
during the durbars held at their palaces. It goes by the name 
of chauri) and is large and bushy, with long white silky hair. 
This is set in a handle of ivory or silver, ornamented with 
sparkling gems. The attendants stand behind, one on each 
side, and dressed in brilliant costumes, sweep the chauri round 
and round in graceful curves over their king. 



376 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



BIRDS OF INDIA AND THEIR TRICKS. 

Specimens of all the different species of birds found in India 
would form a large and interesting collection. Every forest 
resounds with their thrilling notes, musical tones, shrill voices, 
and curious cries. The peacock is a native of this country, 
and ranks as the finest of birds. On the plains about Agra, 
Delhi, and Bhurtpore, during the evening, the trees are full of 
parrots. They are small and of a bright green color. They 
make an unmusical piping noise, but may be taught to speak 
intelligibly. 

Another species of small birds which may be taught to speak 
is the paraquet. They abound in Cashmere, where they are 
caught by the natives for export to Bengal. Another Cashmere 
bird is the Oukar. It is as large as a turkey and has two 
handsome tail feathers. The Maharajah wears one of these 
feathers in his cap, valued at about two hundred dollars. 

The golden eagle, the vulture, the cormorant, the kite, and 
the raven, are perhaps the most remarkable large birds. Num- 
bers of water-fowl hover about the water, the most common 
being the swan, the pelican, the stork, the violet-heron, and 
the white-headed ibis. 

The pink-colored feathers from the tail of the ibis, are used 
by the ladies as part of their head dress. The silver-headed 
crane is a beautiful bird. At the public gardens in Delhi there 
are some so tame that they go about among the people, stepping 
along by them with a stately military tread. They are, how- 
ever, unsafe companions : since, from their fondness for any 
thing bright, they are liable to strike one in the eye. 

Among the smaller birds may be named the hoopol, the 
magpie, blue pigeons, doves, and miners. The latter is about 
the size and of the appearance of the dove, and maybe taught 
to speak. 

The sparrows swarm over the whole county : they come into 
the bungalows and the hotels to make their nests, and fly down 
about the table with the greatest familiarity, eating out of the 
sugar bowl and other dishes. 

The gigantic pouched stork is a native of India, as also 
another kind which is smaller and pouchless. The great 



AROUND THE WORLD. 377 

pouched species stands more than three feet in height. The 
bird is of a handsome gray c®lor, with a whitish band cross- 
ing the wings. They frequent the cities, and a fine is levied 
on the destroyers of them, in consideration of their manifest 
utility as scavengers. 

Some of the birds of India are not only taught to speak, 
but to steal, and many remarkable cases of their tricks are on 
record. In Benares and some other cities, the young Hindoo 
women wear very thin plates, or rather leaves of gold between 
their eyes as an ornament. Some of the native birds are so 
trained by their owners, that they will snatch these ornaments 
from the foreheads of the women as they pass along, and bring 
them away in triumph. During our visit to India, a Hindoo 
was walking along a street in Black Town, when a kite 
snatched from his hand a red silk handkerchief in which 
articles of jewelry of the value of six hundred dollars were 
tied. The man reported his loss to the police, and in different 
stations official notice was given about the robbery. Some 
time afterward a part of the missing j ewels were recovered 
from some men who were supposed to be the owners of the 
bird, and they were arrested and taken before the magistrate 
ior trial. 

THE CLIMBING- FISH. 

In the rivers and other waters of India, fish are very abund- 
ant. Among the many varieties is the climbing perch. In 
the tropical portions of India and China, during the dry 
season, it buries itself in the hard baked mud at the bottom of 
the streams which it inhabits during the rainy months. 
Sometimes it goes in search -of other streams where the water 
still remains. To enable it to travel over the land, the head of 
this species contains a cavity in which a supply of water is 
kept. From this cavity the water falls, drop by drop, upon the 
gills, keeping them moist enough to render those organs 
capable of oxidizing the blood. If the fish fails to find water, 
it proceeds to bury itself in the sand or mud, and remains 
thus until the next rainy season. The Danish naturalist, 
Daldorf, stated before the Linnean Societ}' that he had seen 
one of this species of fish climbing a palm tree which grew 

48 



378 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

near a pond. The fish held on to the bark of the tree by the 
spikes on its fins and tail, and it had reached the height of five 
feet and was going still higher. 

Ad other fish with some remarkable traits is the archer. It 
inhabits the East Indian seas, and obtains the name of archer 
from a curious instinct, which induces it to eject water from its 
mouth at an insect which it may discover on a leaf or branch 
of a tree, even three or four feet above the level of the water. 
So accurate is its aim that it seldom fails to bring down the 
insect, which it instantly devours. 

A TERRIBLE FLOOD. 

During October, 1876, while we were in India, a dreadful 
cyclone occurred. Three thousand square miles were inundated 
at the mouth of the Ganges and the Megna, and two hundred 
and fifty thousand lives were lost! As the floods came sweep- 
ing in upon them, and submerged towns, cities, country homes, 
and dense forests; and when both man and beast were being 
swept away, the voracious nature of reptiles and savage beasts 
seemed to give way to the more natural instinct of saving their 
lives. The most poisonous reptiles were seen clinging to the 
same floating timbers on which some human being was strug- 
gling for life, and neither sought to harm the other. In one 
instance, a boy was seen floating out of the flood on the back 
of a wild hog, which did not show the least sign of ferocity. 

GARRISONING A CITY WITH CROCODILES. 

The torrid zone seems admirably adapted to the production 
and development of many species of reptiles and poisonous 
insects. In India, alligators of enormous size may be seen 
basking on the sunny banks of many of the streams, or 
plunging into the water. The crocodiles of that country 
frequently attain a length of thirty feet, In many of the 
great lakes, ri/ers, and marshes, they are quite numerous. 
Owing to their brutal fierceness and great fondness for human 
flesh, they are sometimes placed in large numbers in ditches 
surrounding fortified cities, as a kind of garrison. The city of 
Bejapore was defended by a garrison of crocodiles. A smaller 
species, which is often found in the water tank, after the annual 



AROUND THE WORLD. 379 

rains, is by the natives supposed to be a kind of god in one of 
his transmigrations, and therefore held in great respect and 
reverence. 

POISONOUS REPTILES. 

Although serpents have ever been the objects of peculiar 
hatred, and many nations have made them symbols of evil 
principles, yet abject fear and superstition have often led men 
to adore and worship them as deities. 

In India, where nearly fifty species of these deadly reptiles 
lie in wait for the destruction of man, the god Vishnu rests 
upon a coiled serpent, and it is the frequent attendant of other 
deities. The boa, which sometimes attains the length of forty 
feet, is dignified with divine attributes, is consulted as an 
oracle, and worshipped as a god. Serpents of smaller dimen- 
sions, but equally dangerous and destructive, are in every 
forest, thicket and garden ; they creep into the bed-rooms, twist 
themselves between the lattice work of the windows, and 
nestle in the folds of the curtains. 

Of these, the most dangerous is the cobra de capello, a hooded 
snake, which grows to the length of eight or nine feet; the cobra 
manilla, a little blue snake about a foot in length, which haunts 
old walls, and whose poison causes death in a quarter of an 
hour ; and the cobra de aurellia, a serpent about six inches long 
whose bite causes madness and speedy death. The cobra de 
capello, on hearing a noise, raises its head with two or three 
feet of its body, spreads its hood, and is ready for attack. 
Unlike ordinary serpents, it seizes with its teeth. The venom 
is contained in a membranous sac in a cavity in the roof of its 
mouth, and is readily ejected into a wound. 

A COBRA IN BED WITH A LANDLORD. 

At one of the hotels where we stopped, the landlord, who 
was sleeping on his couch, found a large cobra as his bedmate. 
When discovered, the snake had his head up, hood spread, and 
was ready to strike. The landlord sprang up and called his 
servants to assist him in killing the reptiJe. Although he had 
about fifty servants who had hitherto implicitly obeyed him, 



380 



TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 




yet he could not get one of them to assist him in killing the 
snake. 



SERPENT CHARMERS. 



In almost every town throughout the country of India, 
professional snake charmers are to be found, who, for a fee of 



AROUND THE WORLD. 381 

five dollars, are ever^ready to come with flute, and drum, and 
basket or gourd, to charm and carry away any serpents that 
may have found their way into the home. If there is a fear 
that l'eptiles are lurking about the house, these charmers are 
called to satisfy the inmates, and it is said their enchantment 
never fails to bring forth the hidden foe. 

The lady of the hotel where we were stopping while at Agra, 
on opening the basket of clothes brought home from the 
laundry, found a large cobra coiled up among the linen. She 
sent for one of the snake charmers. He came and stood out 
in the yard and played on his flute until the snake came out 
to him, when he picked the reptile up by the back of the neck 
and put it into a basket, and carried it away. 

That the Magi of antiquity possessed some secret mode of 
fascinating serpents, which has been handed down even to the 
present day, both in Egypt and India, seems perfectly certain. 
That the same art was professed, perhaps possessed, by other 
nations, appears from certain passages of Scripture. " Their 
poison is like the poison of a serpent, they are like the deaf 
adder that stoppeth her ear, which will not harken to the voice 
of charmers, charming never so wisely." " For behold, I 
will send serpents, cockatrices, among you, which will not be 
charmed." 



382 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



CHAPTER V. 

Jeypore and Agra — The Fort and Judgment Hall at Agra 
— Akbar's Throne — The Tombs of the Emperor and the 
Priest — The Taj Mahal, or Finest Tomb in the World — 
Born in a Desert — Loved by a Prince, but Wedded to 
Another — A Tragic Story — Lost Love Regained. 

gWROM Simla we went to Jeypore, one of the handsomest 
11 and wealthiest cities in India. The capital of the 



^ff^ illustrious line of Rajpoot kings has been located here 
for long ages. The royal palace is very extensive and embraces 
one-sixth of the city. Within its walls reside ten thousand 
people who are dependent on the royal bounty. Jeypore, 
famous as the "city of marble palaces," is the first place in 
India where the native king employed gas for illuminating- 
purposes. The city is built in the form of a rectangle of two 
miles by one, and laid off by parallel streets. The royal palace 
and gardens occupy the center of the town. While here we 
saw the king, who is one of the most liberal minded of the 
princes of India. This king gave to the Prince of Wales some 
of the -grandest receptions that he received in India. His 
tents and retinue were the costliest and most magnificent of 
any of the kings at the Imperial Assemblage, held at Delhi. 
After spending some time viewing the wonders of the city, 
wc went to Agra, where we spent several weeks. This is a city 
of modern edifices and broad and regular streets. Its scenes 
are varigated by the blending of ancient and modern customs; 
and its society is animated by the intermingling of people 
both of the orient and the Occident. Apart from the monu- 
ments, Mogul greatness has departed; and it is hard to imagine 
that this was once a place of such dazzling splendor, and the 
theater of such memorable events. Perhaps nowhere in India, 
is centered such a world of wealth and beauty as may be seen 



AROUND THE WORLD. 383 

in and around Agra. This is the city of Akbar, the greatest 
monarch who ever ruled in India. It was during his reign 
that the British East India Company was formed, which 
became the germ of the British Indian Empire. 

THE FORT AND JUDGMENT HALL AT AGRA. 

The fort at Agra was built by Akbar, and is a city within 
itself. Its walls are of red sand stone, seventy feet high and a 
mile and a half in circuit. The fortress is surrounded by a 
deep moat, crossed by draw-bridges. 

We passed through the massive portal with its lofty arches 
and ponderoas towers, and entered the Judgment Hall of 
Akbar, a grand pavilion with marble pavement, stately col- 
umns and saracenic arches. This hall now contains the 
arsenal, in which is a vast collection of the weapons both of 
ancient and modern warfare. The various courts, halls, cor- 
ridors and pavilions of Akbar's palace, present a series of 
dazzling architectural affect. There are rooms with the 
marble walls inlaid in the rich style of Florentine mosaic. 
There are pavilions of marble with golden domes. There are 
balustrades of marble wrought in open paterns of so rich a 
design that they resemble fringes of lace. There also is the 
palace of glass, or Oriental Bath, which is adorned with 
thousands of small mirrors of bright colors. In it the water 
falls in a broad sheet into a marble pool over brilliant lamps; 
and fountains are so constructed as to be lighted from within. 
Mimic cascades tumble from its walls over slabs of veined 
marble into basins so curiously carved that the motion of the 
water produces the appearance of fish. The courts are 
brilliant with the rose and the jessamine, and musical with 
the murmur of fountains. 

AKBAR'S THRONE: THE PEARL. MOSQUE 

On an upper terrace is the Deivan e' Khas, or hall where 
Akbar sat on state occasions. His throne is about six feet 
square, and is made of black marble, brightly polished and 
richly inlaid with gold and precious stones. I stood upon 
this throne, where once sat the mighty Mogul. No part of the 
wonderful palace is destroyed, and as we walked the halls and 



B84 TEX YEARS' TRAVEL 

beheld the vacant chambers, imagination brought to view the 
household of the great emperor. 

In the fort is the pearl mosque of which Bishop Heber said : 
" This spotless sanctuary, showing so pure a spirit of adoration, 
made me, a Christian, feel humbled when I considered that 
no architect of our religion had ever been able to produce 
anything equal to this temple of Allah." 

TOMBS OF THi EMPEROR AND PRIEST. 

The tomb of Akbar is at Secundra, six miles from Agra. 
The tomb stands in the center of a large square garden, which 
is surrounded by a wall of red sand stonp, with lofty gate-ways 
on each side. From each gate-way, a grand stone causeway 
leads to the central platform, on which stands the mausoleum. 
Tins is three hundred feet square, and rises in terraces to the 
height of one hundred feet. From the main entrance, a 
descending passage-way leads to a vaulted hall in the center of 
the building, where, by a dim light, we beheld a large stone 
sarcophagus wherein was laid the mortal remains of India's 
greatest monarch and conquerer — Akbar — the fourth descend- 
ant from Tamerlane, the third from Babar, and himself the 
grandfather of Shah Jehan. 

Ascending terrace by terrace, along arched galleries, sur- 
mounted bv rows of cupolas resting upon slender columns, we 
reached the summit of the mausoleum. This is surrounded 
by screens of marble filigree, wrought into patterns of marvel- 
ous richness and great variety; and arranged in panels, no two 
of which present the same design. At each corner there are 
two marble turrets, the domes of which are covered with gold 
and emblazoned tiles. In the center of this terrace stands the 
the cenotaph (empty tomb), or monument of Akbar, with a 
pavilion ornamented with a gilded dome. The cenotaph is of 
pure white marble, elaborately sculptured. It contains the 
ninety-nine names of Allah in raised Arabic characters, 
enfolded in beautiful scroll work. 

Akbar was not only the ornament of the Mogul dynasty, but 
the greatest of the Mohammedan rulers of India. It is said 
of him that he never fought a battle that he did not win, nor 
besieged a city that he did not take. His military arrange- 



AROUND THE WORLD. 385 

ments were the least perfect of his organizations; for the most 
complete system was carried into all the establishments of his 
court, even down to the department .of the fruits and the 
flowers of the kitchen and the kennel, and everything was 
regulated under the personal direction of the emperor. 

The summer residence of Akbar was at Futlehpore Sikree, 
in the neighborhood of Agra. The crest of a hill one hundred 
feet high was covered with the buildings of his palace — a 
perfect wilderness of architectural beauty and ornamentation. 
The Hirum Minar, or antelope tower, by the " Elephant Gate," 
is a minaret ninety feet high, studded from top to bottom with 
elephants' tusks. 

What is known as the Durgah, is the tomb of Selim, the 
favorite priest of Akbar. It was built at a cost of one million 
seven hundred and fifty thousand dollars. Surrounding the 
court-yard which contains the mosque, is a pillar cr corridor 
fifty feet high, having a gateway one hundred and twenty 
feet high, one of the grandest portals in the world. Opposite 
this gate stands the tomb of Selim, the priest — a miniature 
palace gleaming like crystal with its ivory pillars and gilded 
domes. The tomb, as well as the canopy which covers it, is 
made of mother of pearl. The floor is of jasper, and the walls 
of white marble, inlaid with carnelian. A cloth of silk and 
gold is spread over the tomb. 

TAJ MAHAL, THE FINEST TOMB IN THE WORLD. 

One of the first monuments that we visited at Agra, was the 
world renowned Taj Mahal, the grandest structure which man's 
love has dedicated to the memory of woman. At different 
times we saw the Taj Mahal glowing in the sun's effulgent 
rays, softened by the twilight, and when wrapped in the 
moon's silvery beams. It is the mausoleum erected by the 
Emperor Shah Jehan for his favorite queen, Noor Jehan, the 
"Light of the World;" or, Noor Mahal, the "Light of the 
Harem." 

The cost of the Taj Mahal is estimated at fifteen million 
dollars! The impression made upon my mind when first 
viewing the Taj Mahal, remains indelibly stamped upon the 

49 



386 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

memory; yet how difficult it is to convey that impression to 
others. One can scarcely imagine that such a structure could 
have been erected by mortal hands, so exquisitely beautiful 
does it appear. It is situated on the banks of the Jumna, one 
mile below the fort at Agra. It is in the center of a large 
garden enclosed by a lofty wall of red sand stone, with a 
superb gate-way. inlaid with ornaments and inscriptions from 
the Koran, in white marble. Passing the gate, we entered a 
broad avenue lined by trees, and with a row of sparkling 
fountains in the center. On each side of the avenue in the 
garden, the palm, the banyan, and the feathery bamboo mingle 
their foliage ; and the rose, myrtle, orange, lemon, jessamine, 
and other tropical plants perfume the air. 

At the end of this avenue rises the Taj Mahal, a magnificent 
structure of pure white marble, two hundred and sixty feet in 
height. In form, it is octagonal, each side measuring one 
hundred and fifty feet. It stands in the center of a double 
marble platform. The first, built of red sand stone, is twenty 
feet in height, and one thousand feet square. At each corner 
are placed twin mosques facing each other, which are con- 
structed of the same material. The second platform is of 
marble, fifteen feet high and three hundred feet square. At its 
corners rise four minarets, like sentries watching over this 
"crown of edifices," and, like its central dome and four 
surrounding cupolas, are also tipped with gold. Every part, 
from the basement to the dome of the Taj Mahal, as well as 
the galleries of the minarets, is inlaid with various colored 
precious stones. 

Great as are the dimensions of the Taj Mahal, it is as elab- 
orately finished as an ivory casket. It has been truly said 
that the Parthians "designed like Titans and finished like 
jewelers." That which lends a rare and ideal beauty to the 
Taj Mahal, is the harmonious blending of majesty and grace. 
The inlaid inscriptions in Arabic letters of black marble are 
said to comprise the whole of the Koran. We descended into 
the vault where, side by side, are the tombs of the Emperor 
Shah Jehan and his queen, which are seen in the soft light 
falling from above through marble screens of the most exquisite 
designs. Immediately under the dome are the cenotaphs, 



AROUND THE WORLD. 387 

enclosed by a marble screen six feet high, which is carved in 
the finest fret work, like lace. The cenotaphs are sarcophagi, 
made of white marble, and inlaid with costly mosaics of 
wreaths of flowers formed of precious stones, so delicately and 
elaborate^ finished that a single flower is often composed of 
several dozen stones. The grand hall containing these monu- 
ments is a lofty rotunda, with a dome eighty feet high, and 
lighted by screens of marble wrought in filigree. It is paved 
with blocks of white marble and jasper, and the walls are 
inlaid with mosaics of flowers and arabesque designs. 

On the opposite side of the river, Shah Jehan had laid the 
foundation for a tomb to be erected to himself, of equal mag- 
nificence; the design being to unite the two tombs by a white 
marble bridge with silver railings. Shah Jehan, the author of 
this remarkable work, died a prisoner at Agra in A. D. 1666, in 
the seventy-fourth year of his age. 

THE STORY OF THE EMPRESS NOOR MAHAL. 

The story of his queen, Noor Mahal, as given by the Persian 
historian, presents a feature of special interest in the history of 
India. A woman of such a character as is given to Noor 
Mahal, would be extraordinary any where or in any period of 
the world; but far more so two hundred years ago in Ind^a, 
one of those Eastern countries? where woman in her social 
condition has been so generally a mere blank. 

When the Mogul dynasty in India had reached its greatest 
splendor, and the immortal Akbar swayed the scepter, there 
was journeying to India from the north, a young native of 
Tartary, and his wife. He was of noble and ancient descent; 
but misfortune had reduced him to poverty, and he was now- 
seeking a home in India. A good education was his only 
patrimony, as his whole resources consisted alone of one poor 
horse and a small sum of money. Placing his wife on the 
animal, he walked by her side. Their pittance of money soon 
became exhausted, and for several days they had lived on 
charity, when, to increase their misfortunes, in the midst of a 
dreary solitude, and with no house to cover them from the 
inclemency of the weather, and no hand to minister to theii 



388 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

wants, a daughter was born. They waited for a time in the 
vain hope that travelers would pass that way; but night 
coming on, and the place being the haunt of wild animals, the 
husband placed his wife on the horse, and as she could not 
support herself, and he was so nearly exhausted that he 
could scarely move, they found it impossible to carry the 
child. An agonizing contest now began between parental 
affection and necessity. The latter prevailed and they agreed 
to expose the child in the highway. So, covered with leaves, 
it was left under a tree, and the disconsolate parents proceeded 
on their journey, though in bitterness and in tears. 

When they had gone about a mile, and the mother could no 
longer see the solitary tree under which they had left the 
helpless babe, she gave way to grief, and throwing herself from 
the horse, exclaimed " My child ! my child ! " Her husband 
prevailed upon her to sit down, and told her that he would 
bring her precious offspring to her arms. He approached the 
spot, and as his eye caught sight of the infant, he stood petri- 
fied with horror. A great black snake had coiled round it, 
and the father fancied that he saw its fatal jaws extended to 
devour it. He rushed forward, and the serpent, alarmed, fled 
into the hollow of a tree. He took up his daughter unhurt 
and brought her to her mother. He was relating the wonder- 
ful escape when some travelers appeared and kindly assisted 
them in reaching Lahore, one of the imperial cities of the 
Mogul empire. 

Aiass (for that was the hunband's name), with his talents 
and education to recommend him, soon obtained a position as 
private secretary in the imperial household, and, in a compar- 
tively brief space of time, was raised to the command of a 
thousand horsemen, and soon promoted to be High Treasurer 
of the empire. The daughter of desert birth received the name 
of Mher-ul-Nissa, or the " Sun of Women." In her beauty, 
accomplishments, and education she excelled all the ladies of 
the East. In music, in dancing, in poetry, and in painting, 
she had no equal among her sex. Her disposition was volatile, 
her wit lively, her spirit lofty and uncontrolled. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 389 



LOVED BY A PRINCE YET WEDDED BY ANOTHER. 

The son of the emperor one day visited her father, and the 
daughter was introduced in her veil (as was the custom). She 
sought to win the affection of the prince. As she sang he 
became enraptured. She danced, and he was so overcome that 
he could hardly be restrained by conventional rules of propiety. 
When his eyes seemed to devour her, as if by accident, she 
dropped her veil and all her charms shone full upon him. 
Her eye charmed the prince and kindled love in all his 
soul. But she had been betrothed by her father to Sher 
Af kim, a nobleman of great renown. Selim, in grief applied 
to his father Akbar, the emperor, to obtain her for a wife for 
him. Akbar refused to do so unjust an act even for the 
heir to his throne. So she became the wife of Sher Afkim. 

A TRAGIC STORY. 

In time, Selim ascended the throne of India. His passion 
for Mher-ul-Nessa, which had been repressed from respect and 
fear of his father, now returned with redoubled violence. He 
was absolute and no subject could resist his will or thwart his 
pleasure. The monarch was resolved to remove his rival. He 
appointed a day for hunting, and ordered the haunt of an 
enormous tiger to be explored; and skillfully managed to 
bring Sher Afkim into single combat with the infuriated 
animal. After a long and desperate struggle the intrepid 
warrior laid the savage beast at the feet of the emperor. His 
fame spread throughout the empire, and he was awarded new 
honors at the court. Secret orders at one time were given to 
an elephant rider to crush him to death in his palanquin as 
he passed through a narrow street; but he dispatched the 
elephant by a remarkable feat of daring. Finally the 
emperor had him insulted and provoked into a combat with a 
band of ruffians; being over-powered, he met his death with 
courage and fortitude. 

Mher-ul-Nissa was sent with all possible care to Delhi, where 
Selim held his court. Though kindly received by the mother 
of the emperor, he refused to see her. He gave orders to shut 
her up in one of the worst apartments of the palace, and 



390 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

allowed her only about forty cents a day for the subsistance of 
herself and several female slaves. Such coldness to a woman 
whom he passionately loved when not in his power, was 
unaccountable and absurd. 

LOST LOVE REGAINED. 

Mher-ul-Nissa at first gave herself up to disappointment and 
grief, but at length the hope of rekindling the emperor's 
former love reconciled her to her condition. To support 
herself and her servants with more decency, she called forth 
her taste and invention in working some admirable pieces of 
embroidery and tapestry, in painting silks with exqisite 
delicacy, and in inventing female ornaments of every kind. 
By the sale of these, a considerable sum of money was accumu- 
lated, with which she repaired and beautified her apartments 
and clothed her slaves in the richest tissues and brocades, 
while she herself wore a very plain and simple garb. In 
this condition she continued for four years without having 
once seen the emperor. Hearing of her fame, he resolved to 
surprise her. Suddenly entering her apartments, he was 
struck with astonishment to find everything so neat and 
elegant. But the greatest ornament of all was Mher-ul-Nissa 
herself. She lay, half reclining on an embroidered sofa, in a 
plain muslin dress. Her slaves sat at their work in a circle 
round her, attired in rich brocades. After the usual form of 
salutation, the emperor being seated, asked : " Why this differ- 
ence between Mher-ul-Nissa and her slaves?" She very 
meekly replied, " Those born to servitude must dress as shall 
please those whom they serve. These are my servants, and I 
alleviate the burden of their bondage by every indulgence in 
my power. But I that am your slave, emperor of the 
Moguls! must dress according to your pleasure and not my 
own." The emperor was pleased with this reply, even though 
it were a sarcasm on his own conduct. He felt his old love 
return with all its power; and the next day public orders were 
issued for the celebration of his nuptials with Mher-ul-Nissa. 
Her name was changed to Noor Mahal, '" the Light of the 
Harem ; " and afterwards, as she grew in the love and favor of 
the emperor, it was changed again to Noor Jehan, the " Light of 



AROUND THE WORLD. 391 

the World." Her name was joined with that of the emperor 
on the current coin of the realm. Her influence at court was 
supreme. Her ascendency over her royal husband was com- 
plete. She was the spring that moved the great machine of 
state. 

It was during the time of this most extraordinary woman 
that the English embassadors first appeared at the palace of 
the Great Mogul, and on several occasions they witnessed the 
full pomp of this luxurious court. 



392 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



CHAPTER VI. 

Delhi, the Imperial City of India — Scenes on Broadway 
— Mosques and Mohammedan Worship — Mogul Palace — 
Peacock Throne — A View From the Highest Column in 
the World — -Hotel Life at Delhi — A Visit to the 
Zenanas — Revenge Upon a Wayward Son-in-law — Hab- 
its and Pastime of the Harems — A Visit to a Home of 
Fifty Wives — Privacy and Protection of the Women — 
The Mutiny of 1757 — An Odd Scene in a Church — A 
Golden Temple — Cashmere Shawls. 

jflROM Agra we went one hundred and forty miles north- 
H| west to Delhi. And here again we were led to turn 
-j)* backward in the flight of time, and bring into review 
the people, the manners, and the customs which once enlivened 
the proud and gorgeous structures which now enraptured our 
eyes. 

Delhi is the imperial city of India, having been chosen by 
the Mogul conquerors as the seat of their empire. Delhi had 
a history, however, before the Moguls, though how far in the 
distant ages its glory extends we can not tell. Whenever the 
place was taken and desolated in the early ages, instead of 
rebuilding it, the inhabitants would found a new city in the 
vicinity; and thus for centuries Delhi continued to be a 
migratory capital. For the last two hundred years it has been 
stationary. Its very ruins attest its ancient greatness. The 
plain around Delhi is like the Campagna around Rome — 
covered with the remains of palaces and mosques, towers and 
tombs. 

There are few cities in the world which have had a more 
varied and more splendid career than Delhi. Everywhere are 
the evidences of a great civilization in former times. Ruins of 
many wars and dynasties are there ; from what was desolated 
by the Turks in the twelfth century to that which w y as destroyed 



AROUND THE WORLD. • 393 

by the English in the nineteenth century. Where once flour- 
ished the great city of two million inhabitants, now stands 
modern Delhi, with about a quarter of a million. It is 
a picturesque town, surrounded by walls eighty feet high and 
seven miles in circuit, and with massive gate-ways. The place 
is compactly built. The houses are of brick and stucco, in gay 
colors, with handsomely carved fronts and galleries and 
balconies. 

SCENES ON BROADWAY. 

The "Chandney Chonk," the broadway of Delhi, runs 
through the center of the city. It is a wide avenue resem- 
bling a Parisian boulevard, having a : mall aqueduct in the 
center, fringed on each side with trees. Every afternoon this 
street is crowded with a picturesque population, representing 
the various races of India. There are also Persians, Afghans, 
and Tartars. The most brilliant combinations of color are 
displayed in their costumes The ordinary dress is pure white, 
with turbans and scarfs of the most vivid shades of crimson, 
blue, green, yellow and orange; with a profusion of gold fringe 
and spangles. 

MOSQUES AND MOHAMMEDAN WORSHIP. 

In many places in India we saw the most beautiful mosques, 
which are a kind of Mohammedan house of prayer. From 
Spain to India, wherever the Mohammedan faith prevails, 
beautiful examples of these buildings may be found ; but in 
India they have many features in common with the temples 
of the Jains. One of the leading and most attractive features 
of these mosques is the dome.- Many of them have beautiful 
niches and recesses, with elegantly carved and Ornamented 
marble work overhead and surrounding the niche. In these 
niches altars are erected where multitudes come daily to kneel 
and pray. Within the mosque there are no seats, but the floor 
is generally covered with mats or carpets. Opposite the pulpit 
there is generally a platform, surrounded by a parapet, and a 
desk on which is placed the Koran, and from which portions 
are read to the worshippers. The Mohammedans have daily 
prayers which they sav at home, and these are repeated by the 

50 



394 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

whole congregation in the mosque on Fridays. On entering, 
the Moslem takes off his shoes, puts the soles together and 
carries them in his left hand. During the time of service the 
utmost solemnity and good order must prevail, it is not cus- 
tomary for the women to visit the mosque, and if they do, it 
must be seperately from the men. 

The Jiimma Musjeed (great mosque) stands in the center of 
the city of Delhi, at the junction of four principal streets. It 
is raised on a grand platform of masonry twenty feet high, with 
a broad flight of steps leading up on each side. The material 
of the mosque is red sand stone and white marble, arranged in 
alternate layers and ornamental figures and designs. It has 
three seoerate domes and lofty minarets from which we 
obtained a magnificent view of the city and its historic plains, 
while in the distance we traced the outlines of the Himalayas. 

mogul palace. 

The fort at Delhi, like that at Agra, is built of red sand stone. 
It is much larger than the one at Agra, and encloses the Mogul 
palace. The hall of General Audience is an elegant arcade 
formed by rows of marble columns with Saracenic arches. In 
the center is the Mogul throne, a pavilion of purest white 
marble, inlaid with gold and precious stones. The hall of 
Special Audience is a splendid marble pavilion with gilded 
domes. The ceiling was originally covered with silver filigree, 
valued at eight hundred and fifty thousand dollars. The 
marble screens are so delicately wrought that they resemble 
lace work, and the balustrades of marble are like fringe. The 
polished walls and columns are inlaid with precious stones in 
the style of Florentine mosaic, supported by the beautiful 
Saracenic arches so often mentioned. In the cornice, at each 
end of the hall, is sculptured in letters of gold, in the Persian 
language, the following sentence: "If there be a paradise on 
earth it is this." 

THE PEACOCK THRONE. 

This hall contained the famous Peacock Throne, which 
is said to have cost thirty million dollars. It received its 
name from the figures of two peacocks standing behind it, 



AROUND THE WORLD. 395 

with their tails so expanded, and the whole so inlaid with 
sapphires, rubies, emeralds, and other precious stones of appro- 
priate colors, as to make a life-like picture. The throne was 
six feet long by four feet broad. It stood on six massive feet 
representing lion's paws, all of solid gold, and inlaid with 
diamonds, rubies, and emeralds. Over it was a canopy of gold 
with twelve pillars, all richly emblazoned with costly gems 
and ornamented with a fringe of pearls. Between these stood 
the figure of a parrot carved out of a single emerald. On each 
side of the throne stood an umbrella, one of the Oriental 
emblems of royalty. They were of crimson velvet, richly 
embroidered and fringed with pearls. The handles were eight 
feet long, of solid gold and studded with diamonds. 

A VIEW FROM THE HIGHEST TOWER IN THE WORLD. 

Leaving Delhi by the Cashmere Gate, we made an excursion 
of eleven miles among monumental ruins to the Kootub 
Minar, claimed to be the highest and most beautiful column in 
the world. It is built of red sand stone and marble, fluted 
with alternate convex and angular divisions. A winding stair- 
way leads to the summit, from which we had a view of the 
surrounding country, both grand and extensive. The Kootub 
Minar stands in the midst of a wilderness of ruins. At the 
base are the remains of a Hindoo temple, the arcades being 
supported on several hundred columns, all richly sculptured 
and no two alike. 

The famous Iron Pillar of ancient date, and the tomb and 
palace of Ala-oodeen are at this place. The Alai Darwaga, or 
Gate of Ala-oodeen, is a remarkable specimen of art. The 
walls are eleven feet thick, while on each side is a lofty door- 
way with a Gothic arch, the outer edge being fretted and the 
under side paneled. The windows of the palace are closed by 
massive screens of marble lattice work, and the walls are 
decorated with tracery on marble, of wonderful excellence. 

HOTEL LIFE AT DELHI. 

At the time of this visit (our first to Delhi), we remained one 
month, returning afterward at the time of the Imperial Assem- 
blage. Our stopping place was a hotel which was formerly a 



396 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

Moslem temple ; and was kept by a landlord, who, as a devout 
Musselman, spent his mornings reading aloud with singular 
intonations from his sacred books, the Vedas. The dining 
table was placed under the great dome of the former temple in 
the coolest hall of the building. Usually the thermometer 
indicated the temperature of one hundred degrees, even where 
various cooling appliances were employed, where punkas were 
in motion and blinds were drawn, and where the doors were 
closed by tatties, or screens of thatch made of perfumed grass 
and drenched with water. The meals of the day were as 
follows : First, the chota hazra, or little breakfast, consisting 
simply of tea, biscuit, and jam, furnished at any hour that 
may be desired in the early morning ; second, breakfast at nine 
o'clock ; third, luncheon at one ; and fourth, dinner at seven. 

Usually in India wooden doors are not used inside the 
houses, but in their stead screens of Japanese matting. At 
night we closed this screen before our door, and the first thing 
to attract our attention in the morning was the voice of our 
servant outside the screen, calling gently salaam sahib, the 
usual morning salutation of the Hindoo. If the reply. 
salaam, was given, he entered and placed the chota hazra on the 
table ; then pausing a moment to see if any orders were to be 
given, he left the room without noisy movements, obtrusive 
questions, or the rude observations which we so often find 
among servants elsewhere. 

Hindoo waiters surpass all others in their true gentility 
toward their superiors. 

A VISIT TO THE ZENANAS. 

While at Delhi, I often visited the zenanas and gave medical 
treatment and advice to the women. At 5 a. m. the carriage 
was regularly sent by the lady superintendent of the English 
Mission to take me to those places. We went at this early 
hour to avoid the heat of the day. The name "zenana," is 
derived from the Persian word for woman, and is applied to 
that part of the home of an Indian gentleman reserved espec- 
ially for the women, where no unbidden guests ever dare 
to enter. We always found the women glad to see us, 
ready in their recitations, and eager to have medical treatment. 






AROUND THE WORLD. 397 

from the fact that they are never visited by medical men. A 
woman would rather die than be seen by another man than 
her husband; and even in case of sickness and death no other 
man is permitted to be present. If the husband consents to 
call a male physician to prescribe for some favorite wife who 
is afflicted, she must be veiled or stand behind a curtain and 
only allow her hands to pass from behind it, in order that her 
pulse may be examined ; and in case he desires to see her 
tongue, a slit is made in the sheet, through which she puts it 
to his view. 

In the zenanas we find a vast sea of human life apart from 
the rest of the world— a terra incognita. No grander field for 
female physicians can be found than in the zenanas. Those 
who go out as teachers and missionaries will find a knowledge 
of medicine an invaluable aid. I was welcomed to the harems 
and zenanas throughout all my residence in Oriental lands. At 
Constantinople, in .Palestine, Egypt, India, and Java, I was 
often seated among groups of women, eager and attentive to 
gather any information that might be given. We had classes 
of native women that took great interest in such sanitary and 
medical subjects as they were taught according to their capacity 
of acquirement. Some of them made good assistants in the 
dispensary department. 

Among the incidents of my zenana acquaintance, was a visit 
to the family of a Nabob (Moslem prince). As we drew near 
the palace, my friend said, " We will leave the carriage now." 
On getting out, we found the narrow streets obstructed by ox 
carts, buffalo cows, sheep, servants, and dogs, all adding to the 
clatter and confusion. We reached the outer door, where a 
chained monkey made a vicious bound towards us as we 
passed. Going through a dark low passage which made 
frequent turns, with guards stationed at near ^intervals and 
servants passing to and fro, we at last entered a large and 
splendid court. In the meantime my friend explained that 
the ladies all live apart from their husbands, and that the 
entrance had been made as obscure as possible that they might 
not be annoyed by intruders. 

A large lady came to us with a child in her arms, and was 
introduced as the Begum (princess) of the palace. We took 



398 



TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



our seats upon the divan in the veranda, where we were joined 
by her daughter. They spoke of being in white, which is worn 
for mourning by Moslem women. They said that they had 
lost a relative. Yet this did not fully account to my mind for 




the settled expression of sadness in the countenance of the 
younger lady. 

REVENGE UPON A WAYWARD SON-IN-LAW. 

However the mother was not long in bringing up " the 
skeleton of the house," her wayward son-in-law. She had 
married her daughter to a handsome young prince and setted 



AROUND THE WORLD. 399 

upon her a large dowry and jewels, to the value of twenty-five 
thousand dollars. In the course of a few years, the prince, 
growing weary of the endearments of home, his fond wife, and 
two beautiful children, began to avail himself of the privileges 
of the Mohammedan law, which makes it lawful for a man to 
have four wives, whose children have equal rights of inherit- 
ance. He expended this wife's property, married again, and 
began to adorn the new wife with the jewels of the first. 
Feeling that the trials of married life had grown beyond 
endurance, the injured wife sought redress, not by appealing 
to a court of justice, nor by producing a domestic commotion, 
but by calling her carriage (in India called a hcvckree), with the 
order to be taken at once to her mother. In a few moments 
the pagoda-looking carriage — drawn by white, sleek oxen — was 
seen hurrying along the hot and dusty road to the palace of 
the Begum. The mother, on learning of the daughter's grief, 
was not long in acting. She was a mother-in-law equal to the 
emergency, since she herself had passed through the trial of a 
similar experience, and knew the protection afforded women 
by the Moslem law. Watching for the Nabob's absence from 
home, she went in with her train of servants and carried off 
everything remaining that belonged to her daughter, as also 
many other valuables, to make good her loss. She placed them 
in security in her own palace and closed her doors upon the 
Nabob, who was soon seeking every means to get sight of his 
wife and children ; but in her opinion he had not been suffic- 
iently punished, and must yet be held in sad suspense. 

MATRIMONIAL SPECULATION. 

Matrimonial negotiations furnish a fruitful theme for many 
Eastern women. Marriage relations for the unborn child often 
become a subject of speculation to the mother. The Begum's 
conversation turned readily from her dauthter's misfortune to 
the prospective marriage of her grand-daughter, and the little 
lady was brought out for us to see. She was only three years 
of age, and yet, already betrothed, and had her wedding dresses 
all prepared. They were made of rich bright-colored silks and 
satins, trimmed with gold lace and ornamented with jewels. 



400 TEN YEARS 1 TRAVEL 

Even the kettles were ready to make the soup of the marriage 
feast. 

HABITS AND PASTIME OF THE HAREMS. 

Shortly after we entered this home, I observed a maid out 
among the flowers with a tray and a pair of shears, clipping 
away at something. A signal from the Begum brought her 
near us, when I discovered that she had been preparing betel- 
nut for our entertainment. Another maid placed a large 
gilded spittoon — about two feet high — b • the side of each one of 
us. Knowing that their rules of etequette forbade my refusal 
to partake of their proffered hospitality, but feeling averse to 
chewing the preparation that was to be offered, I proposed as a 
substitute, a peon of cinnamon bark, cloves, and other sweet 
spices, omitting the opium and tobacco. The requested change 
was granted me, and also a similar favor when the narghili was 
brought out for smoking. The rich amber mouth-piece of the 
narghili, with a flexible morocco tube wound round with a 
silver wire, and a bottle of clear cut glass, filled w r ith bubbling 
fluids, can scarcely be associated with the idea of smoking, and 
yet such is the custom in India. This manner of smoking 
forms one of the pastimes of the harems and zenanas, and 
under its narcotic influence the victims are lulled into a half 
dreamy state of fascination. After the smoking was through 
with, the next thing was to pass the sherbet, and then to serve 
us with coffee in tiny cups with filigree holders. Such is the 
mode of life and hospitality of the harems. 

A VISIT TO THE HOME OF FIFTY WIVES. 

During our staj- at Delhi, among the many families into 
which I was introduced by my medical practice, was that of a 
wealthy merchant and banker in the " Chandney Chouk," or 
the chief bazaar of Delhi. The experience of this visit illus- 
trates the extent to which ceremony is carried by the Eastern 
people, and the degredation of Hindoo women. 

One afternoon, the gentleman came to the hotel and called 
for my husband. After they had been in private conversation 
for about two hours, I was informed that the object of his visit 
was to invite me to go to his palace and prescribe for the 



AROUND THE WORLD. 401 

women of the zenana. Being accustomed to respond promptly 
to professional calls at home, I replied, " I shall be ready in 
about twenty minutes." But I was told that I was not to go 
that day, and that when they were ready there would be a 
carriage and attendants sent for me. It being our custom to 
include carriage, coachman, and bearer when we engaged 
board, I replied that we had our own conveyance. I was then 
made to understand that they desired to pay me that compli- 
ment. Two days later the carriage was sent. On reaching the 
dwelling, Ithe bearer received us at the street door, and con- 
ducted us to the top of the stair-way where stood the princely 
merchant, the owner of the house and the head of a numerous 
family. He gave us a polite welcome, and passing through a 
marble-laid hall, we took our seats in the drawing room, 
furnished in a luxurious style. A servant was called and 
approached me with the usual graceful mlaam, and stepping 
back a little,. engaged in fanning me with a great fan about a 
yard in diameter. Covered with linen, and having a deep 
ruffle attached to the circumference, it was fastened to a staff 
and thus could be easily revolved. After different delicious, 
but unintoxicating drinks and coffee had been served, my 
husband was invited to remain in company with others, while 
I vvas conducted into the zenana, in which I found fifty women 
seated upon the matted floor. The merchant acted as inter- 
preter, the first wife only being permitted to speak to me, 
except in answer to questions concerning the state of their 
health. I found on questioning them that they did not leave 
the house except once a year, and then only to perform some 
religions ceremony at the river. Also some of them had been 
on a pilgrimage to a highly venerated shrine, or temple. They 
were the wives of two brothers ; their ages ranged from eleven 
to forty-five years. On inquiring if they understood music, or 
could read or sew, this man of great wealth gave a negative 
answer, with the remark, '' They have no time." This 
prompted the inquiry, "How do they spend their time?" 
" You see the floors all wet," he said ; •' they have had to wash 
them because you came, and when you go away they must 
wash them again, for they are made unclean by the presence 
of any one who is not of their faith, They must also them- 



402 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

selves perform ablutions before the sun goes down." He 
continued, " In the morning they rise, worship the household 
gods, then get breakfast, and afterwards the children must be 
cared for, and then it is time to get dinner. After dinner is 
over and the house-work done, it is time to get supper ; and the 
performance of the evening worship ends the day." 

He called attention to a niece of about eight years, who had 
just been married, remarking, ''we do not allow our women to 
marry young; we do not believe in early marriages." Although 
many of them had long been afflicted with distressing mala- 
dies, a doctor had been called only in one instance. Then an 
English surgeon had operated upon one of them for cancer of 
the neck. 

I made visits to other zenanas, and was invited to see some 
of the female relations of the late king of Delhi. In one of 
the Moslem zenanas I found two women, nearly twenty years 
of age, who were able to read in different languages, but had 
never been outside of the walls of their own home, except in 
a few instances, and then only in a closed carriage. 

PRIVACY AND PROTECTION OF THE WOMEN. 

The natives are protected by the British government in 
respect to the privacy and security of their women. Some of 
the women from one of the zenanas were one day in their 
hackree riding, when some English soldiers were passing. One 
of them, a new recruit, seeing this singular carriage, like a tent 
mounted on wheels, with rich curtains and bright tassels y 
drawn by a pair of beautiful oxen in red morocco harness, 
with golden bands jingling with bells; and learning that there 
were women inside, stepped forward, determined to satisfy his 
curiosity. Drawing the curtains aside, he was just looking in, 
when a heavy blow from the man walking behind the carriage 
felled him to the ground. Recovering himself, he was enraged 
to find that a Hindoo had dared to strike him, a British subject 
and a soldier ; and was just about to carry out the threat he had 
made — " I'll thrash the ground with you, you black rascal " — 
when he was checked by the officer, who informed him that 
the Hindoo was in the right, and that by intruding upon the 
privacy of the women, he had volated one of their most sacred 



AROUND THE WORLD. 403 

rights and privileges, in which they had the protection of the 
British government. 

THE MUTINY OF 1887. 

From Delhi we went to Meerut, thirty miles distant, where 
there is a large British military station. It was at this place 
that the mutiny broke out in 1857. On a Sabbath morning in 
the month of June, during the time of service in the church, 
and while the troops were in attendance and unarmed, the 
Sepoys rose against their officers and massacred them, and took 
posession of the fort. They then made an attack upon the 
troops in the church, killing many and capturing the remain- 
der. At the same time the native troops mutinied at Delhi 
and many other stations in Bengal. Delhi was held by the 
mutineers until the following September, when the British 
forces blew up the Cashmere gate. In they rushed to victory, 
and sixty thousand native troops surrendered arms to seven 
thousand English. The natives assumed as grounds for the 
insurrection the following circumstance : 

The Sepoys were required to bite off ihe ends of the cart- 
ridges for the Enfield rifle. To this they objected, believing 
the paper used in the composition of the cartridges to be 
saturated with animal fat, which their religious tenets forbade 
them to put in their mouths. The regulation being still 
enforced (although the issue of the cartridges was discon- 
tinued), some of the native leaders conceived the idea of an 
insurrection ; and so great was the secrecy of the Hindoos that 
the news was carried throughout the land, and they matured 
their plans unknown to the English. Often, the bearer of the 
message did not know its full import himself, neither did those 
who received it, further than that their religious views were 
being menaced, and that concerted action was desired when- 
ever a certain signal should be given. The medium of the 
news was the cold cheppatie, or fiat unleavened wheat cake, 
eaten by the Hindoos, and fit for use only when warm. Men 
were sent from place to place with these, bearing word 
that anyone who received a piece of the cold cheppatie should 
respond to the call at the moment when the signal should be 
given. The mutinous spirit gradually cropped out among the 



404 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

native army of Bengal, so that by the disbandment of several 
regiments in Mareh 1857. and also by others not long after- 
wards, and by desertion, the army had lost by the month of 
June thirty thousand men. But the storm of mutiny had 
burst before that date. In April, eighty-five of the native 
cavalry at Meerut refused to use their cartridges. They were 
committed to jail on the ninth of May, and on the tenth the 
Sepoys rose, fired on their officers, killed the colonel and others, 
released their imprisoned comrades and hundreds of criminals. 
They put to death also many Europeans, and set the public- 
buildings on fire. Afterwards they marched to Delhi, which, 
by the co-operation of the Sepoys in the army at that place, 
was also soon in the hands of the mutineers. 

A.N ODD SCENE IN CHURCH. 

Since the mutiny, the British troops always carry their arms 
with them even in their attendance upon Sabbath worship. 
A scene in church in India at one of the military stations 
becomes thus a novel, though not a pleasing sight. I have 
often taken my seat in the sanctuary at Meerut — -a, grand and 
costly Gothic structure, softly lighted through stained glass 
windows, and with the air cooled^ by twenty or thirty punkas 
—when the silence of the Sabbath morning was sud- 
denly broken by the sound of martial music as the troops 
approached. Often a pause was made at the door of the 
church, while a stirring piece was being completed by the 
band. Then the troops would enter in, double file, in their 
scarlet uniforms and brilliant epaulets, with rifles and bayo- 
nets, fully equipped for war. Such an appearance I must 
confess, to one who has been reared in a Christian land and 
taught to abominate war as incompatible with the spirit of 
Christianity, seems indeed an odd scene in church. 

A GOLDEN TEMPLE. 

Prom Meerut we went to Umritsur, a holy city of the Sikhs, 
one of the religious sects of India. Here we visited what is 
known as the Golden Temple, which stands in the Pool of 
Immortality. It is surmounted by a cluster of domes," which, 
with the walls, glitter all over with gold. The floors are of 



AROUND THE WORLD. 405 

polished marble and Jasper, and the interior is profusely 
adorned with gold, silver and precious stones. A stone cause- 
way, with marble statues and vases of flowers, leads to this 
gorgeous temple, which seems to belong to a fairy land rather 
than to this world of realities. 

In this instance, as in hundreds of others which I have 
witnessed amongst idolatrous worshippers in heathen lands, 
we see something of the burden laid upon the votaries of a 
religion which stands only in superstition, and glories in 
pompous show, instead of the adornment of the heart and life 
by the virtues and Christian graces of a system of faith which 
worships only the true and living God, and worships Him in 
spirit and in truth. 

GASHMiSRK SHAWLS. 

At Umritsur, we visited the factory for cashmere shawls. 
The spinning of the hair is done by women; and the fleeces 
of about ten goats are required to make a shawl a yard and a 
half square. The weaving is done by hand by means of 
needles, a separate needle being used for each color of the 
variegated paterns. This work is very tedious and expensive, 
as the weaving of a fancy shawl requires the labor of four 
persons for an entire year. 



406 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



CHAPTER VII. 

Lahore and its Fame — A Wonderful Palace — Peril and 
Rescue — Guests of a King — Attractions of Jummoo — 
Hindoo Prince and Spearmen — Cholera and Supersti- 
tion — Prejudice of Hindoo Religion — Ladies' Dress 
and Ornaments — Stage Drive up the Himalaya Moun- 
tains — A Grand View — Imperial Assemblage at Delhi 
— Gorgeous Tents — Arrival of the Viceroy — The Day 
of Proclamation — Lord Lytton's Throne — Grand Illum- 
ination and Display of Fireworks. 

fROM Umritsur, we went into north-western India, to 
Lahore, the chief city of the Punjab, in the region of 
the five rivers which unite to form the Indus. This is 
the classic ground of Alexander's conquests. It is also very 
important in the early history of India, as having been the 
focus of the struggles between the Hindoos and the Moham- 
medans. Historians and poets have united in celebrating the 
extent and splendor of Lahore. Milton places it among the 
cities of ancient and modern fame, as the seat of mightiest 
empires. Moore has built up amid its palaces, domes and 
gilded minarets, a city of enchantment sacred to the lovers of 
Lalla Rookh and Feramoz. Here is the burial place of the 
wife of Jehaugher, Queen Nousmahel, also immortalized in 
Lalla Rookh. Her tomb is one of the grandest monuments of 
the place. 

MOOUL PALACE 

Lahore contains a Mogul palace which is historically 
interesting as the place of the transfer of the sovereignity 
of the Punjab to the British government; and where, in 
1849, the English acquired the Koh-i-nur, or great diamond, 
which I have seen among the crown jewels in the Tower of 
London. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 407 

This palace is famed for its beauty. Because of its lofty 
facade, and its courts with trees and parterres, it has been 
compared to the hanging gardens of Babylon. In the hall, 
called the " Throne Room," the roof and walls are covered with 
mirrors of rock crystal, while along the gallery which surrounds 
it, runs massive trellis work of gold, with floral work set with 
pearls and jewels. 

One of the halls contains a bath of Oriental agate, in the 
form of a boat encircled by bands of gold, which holds eight 
hogsheads of water. In the time of the Moguls this was filled 
with rose water. 

It contains also the sandal wood gates of Sumnath, with 
which the city is associated in history. Sumnath was a holy 
Brahminical city in Googerat. When it was captured by the 
Persians under Mahmud, the priests begged him to spare the 
great idol of their temple, for which they offered large sums ol 
money. But he replied, " Truth is better than gold," and smote 
the idol with his sword, and breaking it open, from its hollow 
poured forth stones of immense value, gold, silver, and jewels. 

PERIL AND RESCUE. 

On July twelfth, while we were at Lahore, the south-west 
monsoon set in, accompanied with the thunder's incessant roll 
and the lightning's vivid flash ; the rain fell in torrents, and 
the water soon formed pools and lakes. We started to Cash- 
mere by rail, and on leaving Lahore we crossed the Ravee, a 
branch of the Indus. Its swollen waters beat down with 
thundering sound and mighty force against the piers of the 
bridge and o /erflowed the banks. Everywhere along the route 
the land was inundated, and often rapid streams crossed the 
railway. The fire in the engine was almost extinguished every 
few miles, and at times the train moved on only by its own 
momentum. As night came on, the waters grew deeper and 
the scene became wilder. We seemed to be making a voyage 
on the water by a railway train. We stopped at Wazirabad, 
on the banks of the Jhelum or Hydaspes, the river on which 
Alexander fought his great battle with the Indian king Porus, 
at Attock. From Wazirabad to Jummoo — the Cashmere Rajah's 
place in the Himalayas — there is a good graded road. So we 



408 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

took a carriage for the rest of the journey, the distance being 
about sixty miles. We stopped on the way at Sealkote, a large 
and important town, with churches and a missionary station. 
The day before reaching Jummoo we came to a broad and 
rapid river, and found that the bridge had been washed away 
by the heavy rains. Observations were made, and it was 
believed that with care'we could ford t'::e stream. A horse was 
provided for my husband, and I was to cross alone in the 
carriage. When in the swiftest part of the current, and the 
fast descending torrent was beating against us in its mad fury, 
and the horses struggling for life, the carriage was broken in 
two. I was dashed down the stream at a fearful rate, while 
the horses and the driver were struggling for the shore. It 
seemed like a dreadful hour for me, and that my last moments 
were near at hand. A company of Hindoos on the shore, saw 
my peril and bravely rushed to my rescue. With trained and 
steady stroke they soon succeeded in reaching me and bore me 
safely to shore, and thus saved me from a watery grave. They 
then assisted my husband to land, after which they succeeded 
in regaining the carriage, and also assisted in repairing it. 
Then they helped in opening our baggage and in drying our 
things. In fact, they assisted us until we were ready to resume 
our journey. And these were pagans who saved my life and lent us 
such valuable aid. 

GUESTS OF A KING. 

Finally we succeeded in reaching Jummoo, one of the holy 
cities of the Hindoos. The king of Cashmere was at this 
place, and received us into his apartments and furnished us 
with servants to attend us, as also with an elephant or a horse 
daily, to convey us to palaces and places of interest about the 
city. 

While here, during the visit of some British officers, we were 
invited into the palace in which the guests, with the princes 
and the chief members of his court and himself, were assem- 
bled. Before this audience we gave some explanations and 
experimental exhibitions on science, with which all seemed 
highly pleased, and, as a token of his appreciation, the king 
presented me with a remarkable and expensive Cashmere 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



409 



shawl, and besides this, he gave us six hundred rupees, equal 
in value to about three hundred dollars. 

ATTRACTIONS OF J U M M O O . 

One of the principal attractions of Jurnmoo are the Hindoo 
temples, with their tall parabolic spires, which look much like 
immense golden pine-apples. 




HIITDOO TEMPLES. 

Our illustration will give a pretty good idea of the appear- 
ance of these temples and of their general construction. If 
our space would only allow it we would like to add a general 
description of them with their service ; but many interesting 
facts must be omitted. 

The king's palace, the great Dunbar Hall— built in honor of 
the Prince of Wales' visit— and the mountains round about 
the city, covered with gum arabic trees, are attractions of great 
interest. 

HINDOO PRINCE AND SPEARMEN. 

The kings and princes in India — many of whom we saw in 
public and at their own dwellings— are fine looking men. In 
physical appearance, and for intellectual and moral character 



410 



TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



as well, they may be reckoned as equal to their compeers in 
other parts of the world. We give an illustration showing a 
Hindoo prince seated at his ease, with his hand upon his 
sword, and clad in his native costume. 

The soldiers also, 
are a bold and war- 
like body of men. 
Especially formida- 
ble in appearance are 
the horsemen, clad 
in complete armor, 
with sword hanging 
at their sides and 
spears held aloft, 
when mounted on 
superb horses gaily 
comparisoned with 
costly housin s. The 
time has been in 
past ages when the 
soldiers of India 
were scarcely to be 
excelled. 
PEIITCE - Our illustration 

on the next page shows an Indian spearman, armed and 
mounted and read}' for the fray. 

CHOLERA AND SUPERSTITION. 

At Jummoo we remained five weeks, in the mean time the 
cholera broke out and spread rapidly. The king sent to the 
fakirs, or holy men, for counsel. They invoked their gods, and 
then advised that the horns should be sounded long and loud 
in the temples, and the people assembled several times a day to 
pray to their gods. Still the cholera raged. The next advice 
was to offer burnt sacrifice of animals, which was done; but, 
finding it imperative to take some decided measures to stay the 
plague, the king sent the third time to the holy men, who gave 
word for every one to leave the town who could possibly get 
way. 




:e£x:£tx>©o 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



411 




412 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

Although the king of Cashmere is chief among the native 
prince's of India, he holds to the custom of referring judgment 
on vital questions to the fakirs, who are esteemed as saints, 
living in direct communion with the gods. The king sent us 
an elephant to convey us away. We soon mounted the 
ponderous animal and were on our way. He moved cautiously 
down the mountain passes, in many places so precipitous that 
it seemed impossible for us not to be hurled into the abysses 
below. We crossed the river Tavel on a flat-boat and took a 
carriage for the journey, to Sealkote. 

The commander-in-chief of the army, to escape the cholera r 
had taken the troops down to encamp on the plain at the foot 
of the mountains. On hearing that we were on the way, he 
sent runners to meet us, with a pressing invitation to stop and 
receive entertainment from him. He received us with great 
hospitalitality, and invited us into his beautiful tents, and 
when we were ready to go, he sent us in his own carriage, 
drawn by four horses, for several miles and across the river of 
my former adventure. 

PREJUDICE OF HINDOO RELIGION. 

The invitation had been given me at Jummoo to visit 
some of the zenanas of the king, but T had not been able to 
accept it, owing to the panic from the cholera. While we were 
at Sealkote, the general came to see us, bringing some of the 
women to consult me. As they had made a journey of thirty 
miles, I offered to have dinner ordered for them. " No," 
replied the general, " we did not bring our cook with us," to 
which I answered, " There is a cook here who will bring 
anything you need from the bazaar, and prepare it according 
to your own directions." " No," said he again, in a melancholy 
tone; "that will not do; he is a Moslem and we are Hindoos,, 
and we can not eat anything that he touches." I pressed them 
to take a cup of tea, but even that was refused, and they 
remained wholly bound up in their religion, which was not to 
be shaken by hunger. 

The carriage being broken on the way, they had to remain 
until the following morning. They seemed to have no 



AROUND THE WORLD. 413 

prejudices in regard to medical treatment, and were glad to 
get anything that I prescribed. 

LADIES ' DRESS AND ORNAMENTS. 

The fashion of the dress of the ladies of the higher class 
does not differ essentially from that of the common water 
carrier. The usual costume consists of either a full skirt or 
pantaloons (worn very tight up to the knee, then very wide 
and gathered into folds along the seams), and a bodice, or a 
thin slip, on the waist. The veil, slippers, and ornaments 
complete the costume. The chief woman of the company that 
visited us had her arms covered with pure gold bracelets from 
the wrist to the elbow, with some bands above the elbow. A 
double handful of diamonds, pearls, and gems weighed down 
her ears, while banacles^ toe ornaments, and anklets tinkled at 
every step. 

We returned through the Punjab and stopped again at 
Lahore and Amritsir. In crossing the river Sutlej — one of the 
great rivers of the Indus— the boat we were in collided with 
another, and we came near being wrecked in the middle of the 
stream. 

A STAGE DRIVE UP THE HIMALAYA MOUNTAINS. 

We next made a three days' journey by stage to Simla, in 
the Himalaya mountains. The summer residence of the 
British Viceroy and his court is at this place. On this journey 
tho scenery was delightful and constantly changing. After 
leaving the tropical growth of the plains, every variety appears 
as we ascend the mountains. First comes the palms, the ban- 
yans, and the pine forests, and then the plants and flowers of 
the temperate zone. Ascending up the mountain side, we at 
last reached a dense forest of fir, hemlock, live oak and rhodo- 
dendron, while still towering above us were the glittering 
pinnacles and dazzling snow-fields. Lying further to the east 
in this range, were the highest peaks of the Himalayas. As 
we turned our eyes and scanned these mountain ranges, resting 
them on the lofty snow-capped summits above us, and then 
upon the tropical beauties far below, the view indeed seemed 
grand and soul inspiring. 



414 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

Simla is built in terraces on the mountain sides. The 
inhabitants are carried from place to place by coolies in palan- 
quins, or other similar modes of conveyance. The Imperial 
assemblage which was to take place at Delhi, and the grand 
preparations therefor, which were in progress, were the absorb- 
ing topics. Everybody seemed all aglow with fervor and 
excitement over it, and no wonder, for it was to be the 
grandest assemblage in the history of this great country. Our 
mission to India was to see and learn all that we could about 
this remarkable land and its people, so we decided to witness 
this great fete. 

THE IMPERIAL ASSEMBLAGE AT DELHI. 

Delhi is situate one hundred and seventy miles south of 
Simla. Before the day of the Assemblage arrived, the people 
were pouring in from every direction. The Assemblage lasted 
about two weeks, and was one of the grandest in the history 
of the world. This fete was in honor of the proclamation of 
Victoria as empress of India. Lord Lytton was the queen's 
Viceroy. On the plains near Delhi he selected the place for the 
fete, and here a city of tents sprung up as if by magic. There 
were present during the Assemblage one hundred native 
princes, one hundred thousand soldiers, and a vast multitude, 
estimated at one million! The arrival of each prince was 
announced by firing a salute, and the city resounded with the 
booming of cannon and martial music for nearly two weeks. 

GORGEOUS TENTS. 

The Prince of Nyzam and his cortege, occupied two hundred 
tents and eight large mansions. The King of Bhurtpore, had 
five hundred attendants and a battery drawn by thirty camels. 
The Princess of Tonjore was attended hy four hundred 
followers. The King of Cashmere brought his magnificent 
Durbar tent — made at a cost of fifty thousand dollars, for the 
reception of the Prince of Wales. His tents were eight in 
number, and were made of cashmere shawl cloth, and covered 
with beautiful flowers woven in by hand. The Durbar tent 
was supported by three massive poles, enclosed in sheaths of 
pure silver. The tent had a magnificent veranda, with four 



AROUND THE WORLD. 415 

stands overlaid with silver. The ropes supporting the tents 
were entwined with bright colored floss silk. An avenue, 
beautifully bordered with trees and flowers, led to this magni- 
ficient tent. All these grandeurs combined, made it appear 
more like a fit abode for fairies than for men of real life. 

The tent of the Prince of Baroda, contained a howdah— a 
seat for riding on an elephant— made of solid gold, and costing 
six hundred thousand dollars J Two cannon were made of gold, 
and their carriages were of gold and silver, beautifully worked 
together. While here, I heard these cannon fired. 

ARRIVAL. OF THE VICEROY. 

The Viceroy arrived on December 23rd, and was received at 
the railway station by the various ruling chiefs, and a vast 
multitude of people. A procession was then formed, three 
miles in length, which proceeded to the Imperial tent, five 
miles from the city. There were one thousand elephants in 
this line of procession, all decorated with richest ornaments; 
some of them with howdahs of gold and some of silver. 
Many of their housings were of velvet worked with orna- 
mental designs of gold and silver, and hanging down to the 
ground. The Viceroy was preceeded by the chief Herald, who 
was dressed in a cloak of silk displaying the British coat of 
arms, twelve trumpeters, six regiments of cavalry and two 
batteries of artillery. He was accompanied by two detach- 
ments of his body guard, the chief officers of the British 
Indian government, and by native chiefs, mounted on 
elephants covered with trappings of gold that almost concealed 
their stately bodies. Lady Lytton sat in the howdah with the 
Viceroy; their two daughters — about ten and twelve years of 
age — followed upon another elephant. The entire route was 
thronged with spectators, robed in the varied and brilliant 
colors of the East. Steps, terraces, verandas, dwellings, towers, 
mosques, and minarets were covered with multitudes anxious 
to catch a view of the procession. 

THE DAY OF PROCLAMATION. 

A week passed in receptions and banquets, then came the 
great day for the proclamation. It seemed to be a time when 



416 TEA' YEARS' TRAVEL 

history was repeating itself. As Solomon appeared in all his 
glory, gathering the treasures of the earth together for the 
building of the temple, so Lord Lytton was assembling kings, 
princes, soldiers, and the common people on the plains of 
Delhi, for the inauguration of the first Christian Empire in the 
East. It was on New Years day, 1877, and at an early hour, 
dense masses of people were pouring out at the gates of Delhi, 
and strains of music echoed through the environs, for a day of 
wondrous event was at hand. 

LORD LYTTON'S THRONE. 

Four miles from the Cashmere gate, in an open plain, rose 
the throne of Lord Lytton, glittering in the glorious sunlight 
of India. Its height, including the imperial crown, was 
eighty feet. It shone like a thing of eternal beauty, and 
reflected and transmitted the rays of the rising sun like the 
pinnacle of an iceberg, rising out of the profound abyss The 
crown was placed at the top of the throne, and rested on a 
silver cone. In front of the throne was. a grand amphitheater 
for the native chiefs, and on the opposite side was the pavilion 
for three thousand spectators. Beyond the amphitheater, were 
ranges of elephants with their gorgeous housings, oscillating 
up and down like ships at anchor. The great multitude of 
spectators remained in carriages. Marshaled all over the great 
plain were the troops in gray uniforms. Everywhere the eye 
rested on gold, silver, silks, laces and brocades ; officers in 
brilliant attire and princes in diamonds. 

At twelve o'clock, M., the arrival of the Viceroy was pro- 
claimed by the sound of trumpets and the troops presenting 
arms. Lord Lytton, attended by his body guard, alighted 
from his carrsage at a tent over which floated a large silk 
banner bearing the British coat of arms. He was received by 
Mr. Thornton, the foreign Secretary of India, who was dressed 
in a white court robe which reached to the ground. The way 
from the tent to the throne, was laid with crimson cloth. 
Lord Lytton, dressed in his robes ot the Grand Master of the 
Star of India, preceded by the Herald and the trumpeters, 
ascended the throne. Lady Lytton came next, attended by 
two pages bearing her court train. A golden umbrella was 



AROUND THE WORLD. 417 

carried over her. All present arose, and the military bands 
performed a grand march. The play of light and reflection of 
the sun's rays upon the many colors of the mass of banners, 
and the dresses — of perhaps the most gorgeously attired 
assembly in the world — was perfectly marvelous, and few who 
saw it could resist the conviction that a scene of equal splen- 
dor had never before been seen on this planet. 

The proclamation was read by the Chief Herald, and then 
followed a salute of one hundred and one guns, and three 
times a ben de joie was fired by the troops. 

GRAND ILLUMINATION AND DISPLAY OF FIRE-WORKS. 

On the night of the fourth of January, the city was the 
scene of a magnificent illumination and display of fire-works. 
It appeared as if millions of minature lamps were placed in 
every nook and corner, and every conceivable place, and every 
tower, kiosk, dome and minaret was resplendent with light. 
The principal buildings seemed transformed into beautiful 
temples and palaces of gorgeous splendor, while the streets 
looked like bands of golden light. But the ne plus ultra of 
splendor, was in the vast showers of fiery stars of all the 
brilliant hues of the rainbow, wheels which twirled in scintel- 
lations of light, birds which flew and serpents which darted 
like fiery streams through the air, fountains which poured 
forth showers and sent cascades of fire descending and roaring 
like cataracts, Trees, plants, beasts — the monsters of India — 
portraits of Her Majesty and the Prince of Wales, appeared for 
a m®ment with glowing beauty and then vanished away as 
if endowed with supernatural animation. 

With the close of this exhibition the fete was completed, but 
the departure of the Viceroy and the native princes, on the 
days closely following, kept the city again resounding with 
the discharge of cannon. 



53 



418 TEN YEARS 1 TRAVEL 



CHAPTER VIII. 

A Journey to the " City of God " — Benares a Sacred City 
— The Ghats — Tour to Calcutta — 'Christian Mission at 
Serampore — Opposition to the Work — Human Sacrifices 
Calcutta, the Capital of British India — The Black 
Hole of Calcutta — The Ganges — -India a Remarkable 
Land. 

|N January twelfth, we left Delhi for Cawnpore, which lies 
at a distance of two hundred and sixtj^ miles to the 
south-east. Here we remained a little more than two 
weeks and then went to Lucknow, and from there to Allahabad, 
called the "City of God." This latter place is situated where 
two holy rivers — the Ganges and Jumna — meet, and besides 
giving it a sacred appellation, these rivers have long made 
it a place of superstitious reverance and worship. It is a 
much frequented place of pilgrimage for the purpose of ablu- 
tion, The faith of some of the pilgrims in the saving virtue 
of the water of these two streams, is so strong that they sink 
themselves with weights, to rise no more. From the Chalee 
Saloom temple, situated here, it is claimed that a third holy 
river communicates with Benares — seventy-four miles away — 
by a subteranean passage. This is said to be visible only to 
the eye of faith. 

The city contains a population of one hundred and forty- 
four thousand, but at the time of the great fair, held every 
year, the transient population is grealy increased. At this 
time, so many poor pilgrims throng the city, that the natives 
call it by the name of " Fakirabad," the city of beggars. 

BENARES, A SACRED CITY 

Benares v> as our next stopping place. This is a city of some- 
what greater population than Allahabad, and is the sacred 
place par excellence of the Hindoos. It is one of the most 



AROUND THE WORLD. 419 

ancient cities of India. It also is situated on the bank of the 
Ganges, and on high occasions attracts immense crowds, some- 
times as many as one hundred thousand. Some years ago, 
during an eclipse of the moon, forty persons were killed in the 
streets by being trampled upon. 

The Ganges at this place, is from fifty to ninety-two feet deep, 
according to the rains and the season. The city is on the bank 
of the river, and occupies a site in the form of an amphithe- 
ater, about three miles in front and one mile deep. The 
minarets of about three thousand mosques, and the pinnacles 
of about fifteen hundred pagodas, presents a truly picturesque 
appearance. The buildings are lofty, and often with projecting 
stories, while the streets, or rather alleys, are so narrow that 
they are impracticable for wheeled vehicles, and barely afford 
a passage to horsemen or single beasts of burden, and the sun 
and air finds but little access to them. The streets, although 
narrow and crooked, are paved with large slabs of stone. 

THE GREAT TEMPLE. 

The Golden Pagoda, or "Great Temple," with a cluster of 
elaborate golden spires, from the center of which rises a tall 
spire with parabolic outlines, resembles an immense golden 
pine-apple, or pine cone. We saw this shrine crowded with 
worshippers in solemn devotion, making their offerings to their 
gods— idols of stone. Many brought Ganges water, some had 
rice, and others decorated their idols with flowers and trimmed 
them with garlands. 

Benares has been a holy city for ages, and has been the most 
sacred shrine to millions of the wisest and best of the Hindoo 
race. There lives here twenty-five thousand Brahmins. 

From the city, broad flights of steps lead down to the river. 
On these, vast crowds of pilgrims assemble for the purpose of 
devotion, and multitudes of others for pleasure or business. 
The banks of the river is lined with the palaces of many of 
the chief princes of India, who cpend a portion of each year at 
this sacred place. 

THE GHATS. 

Along the banks of many rivers in India are erected build- 
ings to afford easy access for bathers. They especially line the 



420 



TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



banks of the Ganges in most cities. These buildings are called 
ghats, or ghauts. A ghat is generally a long high building, 
fronting the river, to which access is had by flights of steps. 




About these ghats is passed the busiest and happiest hours of 
many a Hindoo. It is a luxury to escape from the narrow and 
crowded streets, and ascend these steps, and sit protected from 
the sun's hot rays, and breathe the pure air of the river. At 
Benares, is what is called the burning ghats, where, according to 
Hindoo custom, the body of many a friend has been burned on 



AROUND THE WORLD. 421 

the steps leading down to the river, and his ashes then thrown 
into the Ganges. It is believed that if the remains are thus 
mingled with the sacred waters, it will secure to the soul great 
happiness in the next world. 

On arriving at Benares, we crossed the Ganges on a bridge of 
boats, and on leaving, we entered a boat and were rowed two or 
three miles down the river. At this time, it was more than a 
mile wide, and the water was of a dark blue, resembling the 
ocean. ■ 

From Benares We went to Calcutta, which is situated on the 
river Hoogly — an arm of the Ganges-^about one hundred miles 
from the Bay of Bengal, and a little more than six hundred 
miles south-east of Delhi. 

CHRISTIAN MISSION AT SERAMPORE. 

While on our, way we stopped at Serampore, the place where 
William Carey established the first Christian Mission in India. 
For more than forty years he was an earnest missionary, and 
indefatigable in his efforts to spread a knowledge of the 
Gospel among the heathen. Under his direction this mission 
issued more than two hundred thousand Bibles in forty 
Oriental languages, before his death. 

OPPOSITION TO THE WORK. 

The mission work here was proscuted under many difficul- 
ties, especially in the earlier years of the work. We have an 
illustration of the opposition to the spread of the Gospel, in 
some incidents related by a missionary, in which he says : 

" Some people who feel that they will gain nothing by argu- 
ment, adopt other ways of opposing us. I remember being 
three times actually laughed away from the spot. The people 
shouted, laughed, and mocked. After bearing up for some 
time I was obliged to leave the place. I was one day preaching 
to an attentive eongragation, when two Mohammedans could 
bear no longer with me. They began to mock and revile me. 
The Sepoys put them out. In about twenty minutes the door 
was opened and a monkey came in, dressed like a European 
soldier, with a black cap on his head. He walked Up to me on 
two legS) took off his cap, madie a low bow, and then made his 



422 



TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



exit. The whole congregation broke into a roar of laughter, 
and the meeting broke up." 



HUMAN SACRIFICES. 



In Orissa, an ancient kingdom of Hindoostan, extending 
from Bengal on the north, to the banks of the Godavery river 
on the south, and from the coast on the east to the Gondwana 
on the west, heathenism long prevailed in its most degrading 




3^EOIiTS:E-2" X2LT -A- MISSIOIT :m:X3E'X'XXT<3-. 

forms. Until within the past few years, human sacrifice 
formed one of the distinguishing features of that religion. It 
was here, that the Temple of Juggernaut was situated. This 
has a kind of pyramidal carriage, two hundred feet high. 
This great car was taken out on annual festivals, and drawn 
through the streets in the midst of the thr. nging multitude 
In former times, many were sacrificed by throwing themselves 
beneath its wheels, while in motion. This atrocity has since 
been prohibited by the British Government, but the car is still 
taken out and a great festival is held on the usual anniversary. 
Among the Khonds, from the earliest times, the most 
revolting custom of human sacrifice prevailed. The victims 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



423 




CA/ES OrF 1 J-CrG-GEElTiVCrT. 



424 



TEN YEARS 7 TRAVEL 




AROUND THE WORLD. 



425 



were bought with a price, sometimes from their own family 
tribes, though generally they were obtained from some other 
tribe often kidnapped. They were of both sexes and of every 
age. However, adults were most highly esteemed, because 
they commanded the highest price, and it was supposed there- 
fore that the sacrifice would be more acceptable to the Deity. 
These sacrifices were often made to the earth-god, and were 
supposed to secure abundant crops and general prosperity to 
any one who cut away a portion of the human flesh and 
buried it on the farm. This sacrifice was often attended with 
the most revolting and disgusting cruelty. Sometimes the 
event was preceded by feasting, dancing and intoxication, 
which lasted for many days. The victim was usually made 
senseless from intoxication, and then life was taken, after 
which the priest cut a portion of the flesh from the body as 
an offering to the earth-god. The people then proceeded to cut 
the flesh from the bones and carry it to their homes and bury 
it. Sometimes the victim was not intoxicated, but his arms 
and legs were broken, in order to prevent resistance. This 
cruelty and sacrifice of human beings has for some years past 
been almost wholly suppressed by the British government. 




p-^ecies oet JL. bed op spikes. 

But India is the land of superstition and fanatical enthu- 
siasm. Among the curious and remarkable religious devotees 

54 



426 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

of this land, may be mentioned the Hindoo Fakirs. In the 
accompanying illustration one of them is represented as lying 
on a bed filled with sharp nails. In this manner they some- 
times lie continually for hours, or days, and even for weeks. 
Others swing their bodies in the 'air by being suspended from 
hooks fastened in their flesh. But the facts are too horrible ; 
and we leave them to the imagination of the reader, thankful 
that in our land, religious enthusiasm, and devotional zeal, 
take more agreeable and less harmful forms. 

CALCUTTA., THE CAPITAL OF BRITISH INDIA. 

Calcutta is called the city of palaces, and takes its name 
from the village of Kali, which contained a temple to the 
goddess Kali. She is represented as a terrible monster, 
delighting in splendid offerings of food and fruit and blood. 
As is shown in our illustration, her image is adorned with a 
necklace of skulls, and her hands contain the ghastly heads of 
her victims. The city contains much to interest a traveler 
and student. The mint is one of the largest in the world; 
and is prepared to strike off five hundred thousand coins every 
twenty-four hours. 

The botanical gardens are very fine. Among its curios- 
ities, we saw a banyan tree which covers more than three acres 
of ground. 

The principal drive of the city is Esplanade Row — a broad 
boulevard along the river — which leads to the public garden, 
called the "Garden of Eden." Here, after sun set, the elite of 
the city may be seen in their rich costumes and displaying 
their handsome turnouts. 

Calcutta is perhaps the chief commercial city in Asia; and 
is the seat of government of the British Indian Empire. 
During the warm season, the court retires to Simla, which we 
visited in the Himalayas, twelve hundred miles from Calcutta. 

The Court had returned to the latter place, and we saw the 
city in all its brilliancy and animation. For two centuries 
the vast Empire of India, embracing one million five hundred 
thousand square miles, and having a population numbering 
but little less than three hundred millions, was governed by 
the East India company. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



427 




m\th K 



flsr- 




428 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



THE BLACK HOLE OF CALCUTTA. 

June 20, 1756, is memorable in the historjr of India for the 
tragedy of the "Black Hole of Calcutta." The city fell into 
the hands of Surajah Dowlah, prince of Bengal, who had one 
hundred and forty-six of the English prisoners driven at the 
point of the bayonet into a small cell, said to be only eighteen 
feet square, where they were confined for the night, deprived 
of water, and also of air except what could pass through one 
small window. Out of the whole number only twenty-three 
survived until morning. At the present time, the General 
Post-office — a magnificent building — occupies the site of this 
dreadful traged}^. In the vestibule, beneath the lofty dome, a 
marble star is set in the pavement on the place of the Black 
Hole Prison. 

The following year, 1757, the British Dominion in India was 
established by the conquests of Lord Clive. Soon afterward, 
Fort William was built, which is the strongest fortress in 
India, mounting six hundred cannon and holding fifteen 
thousand men. The Government House is a grand palace 
situated on the Esplanade. The central building is sur- 
mounted by a splendid dome, and has four wings attached- 
The grounds are handsomely adorned with statues and foun- 
tains and luxuriant trees of the tropics, while the air is 
fragrant with the perfume of flowers. In the surrounding 
walls are ornamented gate-ways, in which the " British Lion " 
and the " globe " are conspicuous. 

Let us look at Calcutta, built upon a river-made island. It 
is a hundred miles from the sea. It is the capital of the 
Indian Empire; it is the centre of power and trade; it is 
sending out influences to mould the social, political, and 
national life of all India and the great continent of Asia; and 
yet is onl} r one hundred and sixty years old. With the 
exception of London and New York, it has no parallel in the 
history of the world. In 1717, it contained only three miser- 
able villages, and was surrounded with swamp and jungle. 
In 1756, there were only seventy European houses, and the 
country around was full of tigers and wild beasts. 



AROUND THE WORLD, 429 

Calcutta'extends along the banks of the Hoogly for seven 
miles ; is more than a mile in width ; covers an area of eight 
square miles ; and with its suburbs contains about one million 
inhabitants. It is a representative centre of all nations, of all 
religions, and all types of race and character. Here you find 
English, French, German and American ; Dutch, Italian, 
Greek and Russian from the West. Here you meet w r ealthy 
Parsees from Bombay; Arab merchants with their splendid 
turbans; busy Armenians, grasping Jews in the true Eastern 
costume; Chinese and Burmans with their Mongolian face and 
almond eyes; the manly Sikhs and the proud Rajpoots; and 
specimens of every country in the East. 

THE GANGES. 

We can not bid farewell to India without adding a few words 
concerning the Ganges, the greatest water course of Asia. It 
flows through a region of remarkable fertility and densely 
populated; and upon its banks stand many wealthy and 
renowned cities. Calcutta, the modern metropolis of Eastern 
Hindostan; Lucknow, famous for its heroic defense and for its 
rescue by Havelock; Cawnpore, memorable for the Sepoy 
mutiny and massacre; Benares, the ancient sacred city of the 
Hindoos; Delhi, the renowned capital of the Mogul empire; 
Patna; Agra; Moorshedabad ; and numerous others, more or 
less populous, lie in the extensive Ganges valley, which, with 
its seemingly inexhaustible fertility, for ages past has sustained 
vast populations of mighty empires. 

Up among the eternal snows of the Himalayas, in an icicle- 
studded cave— said to be the tangled hair of the god Siva — 
fourteen thousand feet above the level of the sea, the sacred 
Ganges takes her rise. She begins her career as a stream only 
twenty -seven feet wide and fifteen inches deep; but she forms 
with her tributaries a cachment basin, bounded on the north 
by a section of seven hundred miles of the Himalayan range, 
and on the south by the Vindhya mountains, and embraces an 
■area of three hundred and ninety-one thousand, one hundred 
square miles. This historic river is a mighty factor in the 
•civilization of India and the development of her people. She 
dashes down the slopes of the Himalayas; cuts deep gullies 



430 77/ V YEARS' TRAVEL 

among their rocks; and ploughs up the glens among the 
mountains. By the time she reaches Hurdwar, a distance of 
one hundred and eighty miles, she discharges seven thousand 
cubic feet of water per second ; but by the time she reaches 
Rajmahal, one thousand miles further, she bears in her bosom 
a liood discharge of one million eight hundred thousand cubic 
feet per second. The maximum discharge of the Mississippi 
is only one million two hundred thousand; of the Nile, at 
Cairo, three hundred and sixty thousand ; and of the Thames, 
six thousand six hundred. For a distance of two hundred 
miles the sea face is filled with the estuaries of this magnifi- 
cent river.- 

What has she done for India? It has been truly said that 
" Egypt is the gift of the Nile.'' And it is just as true of the 
Indian delta. The Ganges and Brahmaputra have for the past 
thousands of years been carrying on a wonderful process of 
land making. They have torn from the slopes of the Himal- 
ayas and carried in their current down to their mouths forty 
thousand cubic feet of solid matter every year; they have 
impeded the sea currents by their floods and silt, and forced 
her to drop her burden of sand ; they have rolled back the sea 
for three hundred and twenty-six miles ; and they have built 
up an island four hundred feet in height and containing an 
area of fifty thousand square miles. This is now the splendid 
and fertile province of Bengal, with a soil unequalled in the 
world. No river has conferred such benefits, and none is so 
sacred. From her ice-cradle to the Bay of Bengal her banks 
are holy ground. Pilgrims crowd her thousand holy places. 
Six years are spent by some in climbing to her source. To 
bathe in her waters washes away all sin ; and to die and be 
burned on her shores is the last wish of millions. Her great 
historical cities, Patna and Benares, still flourish by her side in 
their ancient importance ; and Agri and Delhi adorn her large 
tributary, the Jumna, and she bears on her bosom a trade of 
two hundred and fifty million dollars a year. 

A REMARKABLE LAND. 

India is truly a remarkable land. The ancient empires of 
Egypt, Babylon, and Assyria bear no comparison with its area, 



AROUND THE WORLD. 431 

population and value. Imperial Rome, in her greatest glory, 
never sheltered under her eagle wings so many human beings. 
India has an area of twelve millions of square miles, and is 
equal to all Europe without Russia. Who can realize the 
vastness of her population ? From the splendid palace of the 
Rajah, down to the meanest hut of the savage, you can gaze 
upon forty-three and a half millions of human dwellings. 
You can wander amid seven hundred and fourteen thousand, 
seven hundred and seven towns and villages. You meet in 
your survey, one hundred and eighty-seven million, nine 
hundred and thirty -seven thousand, four hundred and fifty 
Hindoos, bound together into a concrete mass by the chains of 
caste, and guarded by the most learned, ancient, jealous and 
powerful- priesthood that the world has ever beheld. You see 
mingled with this multitude, fifty million, one hundred and 
twenty-one thousand, six hundred and eighty-five followers of 
the false prophet, gathered by the hope of conquest and 
plunder from all parts of Asia, and recruited by the sword and 
persecution from the lower classes of Hindoos. You discover 
to your horror no less than six million, one hundred and 
twenty -six thousand, five hundred and eleven nature worship- 
pers, many of whom are now in the deepest barbarism, and 
crushed by the most naked and degrading devil worship. You 
meet in British Burma and Eastern India, three million, four 
hundred and eighteen thousand, eight hundred and eighty- 
four Buddhist*. In the Punjab, you count one million, eight 
hundred and fifty-three thousand, four hundred and twenty- 
three noble Sikhs, one of the finest races in the East. And 
last, but not least, you number up one million, eight hundred 
and eighty-two thousand, eight hundred and thirty-four 
Christians, the growth of less than one hundred years. 



432 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



EIGHTH TOUR-JAVA. 



CHAPTER I. 

Last View of India — Garden of Reptiles — Great Banyan 
Trees — Burial of a Young Lady at Sea — Arrival at 
Penang — One Week at Singapore — Temperature and 
Beauties of Singapore — A Religious Pantomime — From 
Singapore to Java — Landing and Life at Batavia — 
Seasons and Temperature — Commercial Relations and 
History — General Customs of the Natives — National 
Costumes — Javanese Amusements — Visit to a Wealthy 
Javanese Lady. 

)FTER more than a year spent in India, we set sail from 
k Calcutta, down the Hoogley, for Singapore. We took 
^s#^ our final view of India from the deck of the Argyl. As 
it glided down that majestic stream we left the City of Palaces 
— the chief port of India — far in the distance. Passing the 
broad esplanade upon the left bank, we soon came opposite the 
Garden of Eden, with its magnificent and rich foliage. Next 
we passed the home of the ex-king of Oude. 

A. OARDEN OF REPTILES. 

The king has a large artificial mound raised in his garden 
for the reptiles of his menagerie, of which he has more than 
two thousand in his collection. A suspicion has long existed 
among the inhabitants of the city that he some night will let 
loose. these hissing monsters upon the defenseless city, in order 
to avenge himself for his long captivity. 

GREAT BANYAN TREES. 

Further down the river in the botanical gardens on the right 
side, is one of the largest banyan trees in the world. It has 
one hundred and thirty creepers formed into trunks, making a 



AROUND THE WORLD. 433 

canopy of beautiful foliage large enough to afford shelter for 
two thousand persons. The banyan tree grows large by send- 
ing creepers from the branches to the ground, which in time 
become large trunks. It is asserted that Alexander the Great, 
during a storm, took refuge under one in northern India, with 
an army of ten thousand men. 

We had a pleasant sail down the river for one hundred 
miles, and then launched out into the Indian Ocean. 

BURIAL OF A YOUNG LADY AT SEA. 

After we had been ou^ two days on our voyage we witnessed 
a burial at sea. A young lady, who had been spending some 
time in India, had fallen a victim to pulmonary disease. She 
desired to return to her home in Australia and attempted the 
voyage. When it was observed that she was declining she was 
brought upon deck to see if the pure air would not revive her. 
She rapidly sank, and quietly passed away as if in slumber. 
The body was enclosed in strong canvas, with weights to 
carry it to the bottom of the ocean. It was then placed upon 
a board, one end of which rested upon the bulwarks. The 
British flag was spread over it, and remained until the time for 
burial. The captain read the burial service of the English 
church, the flag was withdrawn, the end of the board was' 
raised, the body slipped down into the sea, and the waves 
closed over it ! 

The scenes upon the voyage were varied only by blue waters 
by day, the sky above, with its starry dome at night, and 
the phosphorescent light in our pathway. The water was so 
heavily charged with phosphorus that when the hand was put 
into the salt water bath at- night, a shower of little balls was 
produced, so bright that no light was required for the bath 
room. 

ARRIVAL AT PENANG. 

In five days we arrived at Peuaug. It was on Palm Sunday 
that we cast anchor. Around our steamer came little boats, 
laden with sponges, coral, and shells, so exquisitely beautiful 
that they looked like caskets of jewels floating upon the bright 
emerald waters. We went on shore and viewed the various 

55 



434 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

places of interest. The town contains many beautiful dwel-* 
lings located in the midst of luxurious gardens, shaded by 
magnificent trees. The Penang or betel-nut palm waves its 
feathery crown and carries its golden fruit above the heavier 
foliage of the bread-fruit tree and clumps of crimson-flowered 
trees, and is in striking contrast with them. 

Penang has a large Chinese population, which displays 
more activity in their occupations than the Hindoos. A 
Chinaman stands up at his work and plies his tools with great 
energy and skill. A Hindoo takes his seat on a mat whenever 
possible, and holds many kinds of his work between his toes, 
while he moves his slender fingers with pliant and manly 
grace. Of all the Orientals the Hindoos are the most handsome 
and princely race. 

The chief exports of Penang are: black pepper, betel-nuts, 
tin, and shark's hides. From the latter the Chinese make- 
soup. 

ONE WEEK AT SINGAPORE. 

In twenty-four hours after we left Penang, we anchored at 
Singapore— -about twelve hundred miles distant from Calcutta, 
Here we remained one week. This city is only about eighty 
miles from the equator; nearer to it than any other city of 
equal commercial importance. It is situated on an island of 
the same name, twenty -five miles long and about fifteen wide. 
The surface is generally low and undulating. Gambir, sago,- 
and nutmegs are the principal productions of the island. Tte 
name Singapore, is derived from the Sanskrit sarga — " touch- 
ing" — and pura — ='*city" — -and implies the ancient "touching 
city" for trades between China and the west. It is the port 
where steamers stop on the way to Batavia and the east. 

TEMPERATURE AND BEAUTIES OF SINGAPORE. 

It does not possess the high temperature of many places of 
higher latitudes in India, where, as expressed by one, "the 
winds scorch as a flame of fire, and the ground glows as an 
oven." The temperature ranges from 70° to 92°. 

Singapore has very frequent rains, which fall more or less, 
about two hundred days in the year, and no portion of the 



AROUND THE WORLD. 435 

year, strictly speaking, may be called the dry season. Much 
moisture is in the air at all times, and clouds form in wreaths 
about the mountain peaks as in the temperate zones. No 
seasons really exist here — a perpetual summer, with a remark- 
able equableness of temperature, crowns the year. 

The city is embosomed in gardens of liowers and fadeless 
foliage. Oriental vegetation, magnificent groves of palms mus- 
ical with birds of splendid plumage, and perpetual summer 
gilds hill and dale, and conspires to constitute one of the most 
beautiful regions on earth. Such are the scenes within the 
tropics that we were chilled with the remembrance of biting 
frosts and chilling blasts of other zones. 

The population of Singapore comprises many nationalities, 
English, Scotch, Dutch, French, Portugese, Americans, Hin- 
doos, and Malays. The money is the American dollar. The 
American rocking-chair is common in the drawing-rooms. 

A. RELIGIOUS PANTOMIME 

A religious revival was in progress in one of the churches. 
It was crowded every evening. At the Portugese cathedral, on 
Easter Sunday, the death, burial, and resurrection of our Lord 
was typified by wax figures. It was a revolting scene, and the 
images were rendered more ghastly by the bright wax candles. 
The scene was made more dolorous by the monotonous chant- 
ing of the priests. In the procession one image was borne in 
a coffin to represent Christ, another upright to represent the 
Virgin. These ceremonies were kept up until mid-night. 

One principal curse of Singapore is the tiger. It is estimated 
that about three hundred Chinamen and other natives are 
carried off yearly by this ferocious beast. Turtles are common 
on the sea shore, and form the cheapest animal food sold in 
the bazaars. 

FROM SINGAPORE TO JAVA. 

From Singapore we sailed for Batavia, on the island of Java, 
a distance of five hundred and thirty-six miles. The voyage 
of three days was spent in viewing the group of one thousand 
islands — which rise like emerald mounds from the blue sea — hi 



436 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

watching the beautiful sun sets, and meditating upon the 
crossing of the equator for the first time. 

ARRIVAL, AT JAVA. 

The news "we are now in port," on the morning of a sunny 
April day, brought the passengers of the steamer on deck. 
Right before us, skirted by the blue waters, rose the emerald 
plains and floral groves of Java. On landing, we were sur- 
rounded by a crowd of natives, whose open air and general 
appearance bore a very marked contrast to those of the mild 
Hindoo, who approaches gently with his graceful "salaam." 

We took a carriage and drove into Batavia, while a courier 
preceded us with our letters of introduction. Stopping before 
a group of white cottages— half concealed by a garden of most 
beautiful tropical foliage, and shaded by palm and mangrove 
trees — -the gentleman came to meet us. His cordial manner 
and kind reception were more like that of an old friend than 
one on first meeting. We were then soon seated on the cool 
verandah, with its handsome screens and trailing vines. In 
answer to " What will you have to drink?" we replied, "A cup 
of Java coffee," which was soon sending up its pleasant aroma 
from the marble table before us. An apartment was provided 
for us where we could look out upon the playing fountains? 
beds of flowers, and drooping palms. 

MALAY WAITERS. 

I was told that I was to have a maid to serve me, and the 
only signal I need give her was to step to the window and call 
out "Baboo!" On trying the experiment, a Malay woman of 
amiable appearance came in. Her eyes were large and black f 
her complexion yellow, or golden, with a ruddy tinge ; her 
jetty hair was combed straight up all around and made into a 
knot at the top of her head, into which she stuck her pins and 
needles. Her costume consisted of a skirt of batek cloth — one 
of the manufactures of the island — -which was in a single piece 
of about three yards' length. This she wound around her and 
tucked it in at the waist so as to join her bodice, the width of 
the cloth giving the right length for the skirt. Over this was 
worn a loose gown, extending down to the knees, with long 
sleeves. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 437 

The dress of the men is similar to that of the women. The 
hair is worn long and put up with a comb, and when about 
the house they cover their heads with a handkerchief, put on 
in the style of a tuiban. As a protection, either in sunshine or 
rain, they have hats shaped like a wash-basin, made either 
of split bamboo braided, of leaves, or lacquered material. The 
word spada is used to express boy or waiter. 

A French cook prepared the most savory dishes for the table, 
and placed before us every variety of the delicious fruits of the 
island, which are more abundant in Java than in any other 
place on the globe. Daily we drove out in a carriage drawn 
by Javanese ponies; and in the evening attended music in the 
parks, concerts, or the grand opera. When the weather was 
very warm we could repair to the marble baths which were in 
the house where we lived. 

SEASONS AND TEMPERATURE. 

Batavia is situated about six degrees south of the equater. 
The lengthening or shortening days, the ever changing tints of 
spring, summer, and autumn, succeeded by the leafless boughs 
of winter, are constantly recurring phenomena in northern 
climes; but in the tropics none of these changes occur, and 
one eternal summer alone prevails. The seasons are not dis- 
tinguished as hot and cold, but as wet and dry. 

In Java, the wet season prevails during October, November, 
and December ; in March or April, the rains are succeeded by 
easterly winds and fair weather. Situated so near the equator, 
it would naturally be supposed that the temperature would be 
Vftry oppressive, which, in fact, is not the case. From obser- 
vations made for some years at Batavia, the temperature 
usually ranges from 70° to 74° Fah. morning and evening, 
and stands about 83° at noon. 

COMMERCIAL. RELATIONS AND HISTORY. 

Batavia lies near the most frequented route from British 
India to China and Japan, and is nearly midway on that 
route. Almost all ships that sail between Europe and China, 
'touch either at Singapore or Batavia. From New York, by 
y< ater, the distance to Batavia is thirteen thousand and sixty- 



438 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

six miles; when it is midnight there, it is only about noon at 
Washington. Java is the largest of the Sunda islands, by 
some called the Malayan group, the Asiatic Isles, or Oriental 
Archipelago. Java is, beyond all comparison, the most 
important portion of the Indian Archipelago. Its fertility, 
productiveness, civilization, and the industry of its inhab- 
itants, place it far in advance of all the surrounding islands. 

It is about one-third larger than Ireland, but it supports a 
population twice as numerous. It may be compared in form, 
size, and position to the island of Cuba, but then it has many 
times the number of inhabitants. The population of Java 
and the adjacent island of Madura, is estimated at nearly 
fifteen millions. It is thus one of the most densely populated 
countries in the world, and this is still more apparent if we 
take into consideration the large area occupied by its lofty 
mountains. 

Java was populated at a very remote period. The origin of 
its first inhabitants is lost in obscurity. In the tenth chapter 
of Genesis, reference is made to the isles of the Gentiles, and it 
is thought that Java was amongst those alluded to. In the 
twenty-seventh chapter of Ezekiel we find among the rich 
merchants those of Javan, who traded the persons of men, 
vessels of brass, iron, casia, and calamus to the market of 
Tyre ; but we shall leave it to those who trace the Javan of 
Holy Writ, and the Java of modern times. To what cause 
the island is indebted for the present name of Java, or Jarva 
as pronounced by the natives, is uncertain. 

PRODUCTIONS AND EXPORTS. 

The chief exports of Java are tea, coffee, sugar and rice. I 
have seen growing on the same estate, coffee, tea, cocoa, 
cinchona, nutmegs, cinnamon, cloves, kayapute, dates, rice, 
cocoanuts, and a great variety of tropical fruits, and flowering 
shrubs. On the exports are heavy duties, which bring in a 
large revenue to the government. Eight varieties of sugar 
cane, and one hundred varieties of rice, are grown on the 
island. The culture of the various productions, the character, 
manners and customs of the natives, and resident Chinese, are 



AROVND THE WORLD. 439 

subjects of deep interest to those who are fond of Oriental 
scenes and descriptions. 

GENERAL APPEARANCE AND SINGULAR CUSTOMS OF 1 
THE NATIVES. 

The Javans may be distinguished by their short, robust 
stature. The forehead and chin are sharpened, the cheek bones 
are very broad, the eyebrows and superciliary ridges project 
Very little, and the mouth is not well formed, the countenance 
is mild and placid, thoughtful and easily expressive of respect, 
gaiety, earnestness, indifference, bashfulness, or anxiety. The 
complexion is yellow. Their standard of beauty in this respect- 
is a golden color. 

The Javans, Sumatrans, and indeed all ranks of the inhab- 
itants of the Archipelago, of both sexes, have the habit of 
filling the teeth, and coloring them black. They consider it a 
disgrace to have them white like dogs' teeth. The operation 
is performed when the child is eight years old, and is very 
painful. The object is to make the front teeth concave, and 
they file away the enamel to render them better adapted to 
receive the black color. This barbarous custom tends to 
destroy the teeth at an early age, and the use of tobaoco, betel 
nut and lime, soon completes the disfiguration of the mouth. 

NATIONAL COSTUMES. 

The peasants of Java are better clothed, take more food, and 
have better habitations than the same class in India. The 
style of dress, as already described, is neat and becoming. 
The} 7 pride themselves in the use of a great Variety of colors. 
Sarong, a kind of cloth much worn as a skirt, is covered with 
figures of animals, birds, reptiles and plants ; sometimes with 
a double row of black saw teeth locked together. It is of a 
dark madder color. The girdle by which it is fastened is 
called an Undat. The loose gown is called Kalambri, and the 
bodice worn by the women is called the Kombang. All classes 
apply oil to their hair, and perfume their clothes with fragrant 
oils and spices. Both sexes wear sandals, shoes, or slippers. 
Servants always drop their slippers — as do the Hindoos — at 
the door, as a mark of respect. The men wear a handkerchief 



440 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

or pocket attached to the waistband. This contains tobacco 
and the kris or dagger, worn by all classes. Warriors wear 
three daggers, one on either side and one behind ; the first 
descended from his ancestors, the second he calls his own, and 
the third he received at his marriage from his wife's father. 
This he places on the left side for constant use. On going into 
battle they wear their richest attire, and the rings and valuable 
jewels which they possess. In full dress, the arms and shoul- 
ders are bare, and are are rubbed over with a white or yellow 
powder. 

JAVANESE AMUSEMENTS. 

The Javanese are fond of amusements, and especially of 
dancing. The dance, as with the Asiatics, generally consists 
of graceful attitudes of the body, with a slow motion of the 
arms and feet, especially the former, even to a motion of the 
hand and fingers. They occasionally approach and recede 
from each other, and sometimes cross from side to side. Tne 
dancing girls are decorated in nearly the same manner as a 
bride, with a tiara of flowers, plumes, and brilliant stones on 
the head. Armlets encircle the arms, and rings are worn on 
the fingers, and even on the toes. Both sexes wear false-faces, 
which give a pleasant diversion to the dance. A band of 
musicians are always in attendance with their rudely con- 
structed instruments. 

The dress of the higher class of native ladies does not differ 
essentially from the lower order, but the articles are finer, and 
gold is used for ornaments, and precious stones are substituted 
for ornaments of brass and copper. With them, comfort and 
convenience hold the goddess Fashion in obeyance. 

VISIT TO A WEALTHY JAVNAESE LADY. 

One evening a Javanese lady, the owner of a large coffee 
estate, called to take us in her carriage to dine at her home. 
She was quite impatient that I should stop but a moment to 
adjust my toilet, saying: "You can dress at my house; I have 
plenty of suits ; " and when we were there, she begged me to 
remove my costume, remarking, " It's too uncomfortable. I 
do not see how you can wear these French styles; they are 



AROUND THE WORLD. 441 

very elegant, but they are too tight and warm ; and as for your 
hair, why not let it down at once in braids, as we do ?" When 
dinner was announced she had my style so completely changed 
that I could scarcely recognize myself in the mirror. The suit 
consisted of what we may call, for want of a better name, a 
divided skirt with a fine white gown over it, trimmed with 
lace, and fashioned like a night dress. Natural flowers were 
employed as ornaments, and a pair of gold embroidered slip- 
pers completed the toilet. 



442 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 




CHAPTER II. 

An Excursion to Buitenzorg — Mountains and Volcanic 
Eruptions — -Visit ioa Wealthy Estate — Tea Culture — 
A Thunder Storm — Visit to Other Estates — Carried in 
a Tando — Batavia — A Voyage Along the Coast — Visit to 
a Millionaire — Chinese Temple. 

E bad planned a Visit to the governor's residence, at 
Buitenzorg, thirty-five miles from Batavia, in the 
interior. This was in the month of May, the season 
when Nature is in her richest luxuriance. On the way we 
were impressed with the bold outlines and prominent features' 
of the scenery. The governor's palace, the parks, botanical 
gardens, and lawns are very fine. The garden is one of the 
finest and best in the world. Nowhere can be found as 
good and as complete a collection of tropical trees, plants,- 
and flowers as in this garden. Here may be seen what is more 
commonly called the Walking Leaf, classed by Linnasus as an 
insect under the name of Phy Ilium Siccifolium. This remark-- 
able connecting link between animal and vegetable life has the 
appearance of a cluster of leaves; and while lying motionless 
and apparently lifeless, it sometimes astonishes the beholder 
by walking off! 

Buitenzorg is situated at an elevation of eight hundred feet 
above the level of the sea, and is a favorite summer residence 
of the wealthy families of Batavia. It is surrounded by the 
most charming and picturesque scenery. 

MOUNTAINS AND VOLCANIC ERUPTIONS. 

To the east, in view, are the high mountain ranges — some of 
the highest peaks perpetually covered with snow. An unin- 
terrupted series or range of mountains, varying in elevation 
above the level of the sea from eight thousand to ten thousand 



AROUND THE WORLD. 443 

feet, extend through the whole length of the island. Some of 
the greatest catastrophes from volcanic eruptions have occurred 
in Java and on the adjacent islands, among which is now 
numbered the eruption which took place August 27, 1884, on 
the island of Krakatoa, in the Strait of Sunda, which was 
accompanied by a tidal, wave that swept over the north-west 
coast of Java. Towns were destroyed, and nearly one hundred 
thousand people lost their lives. In A. D. 1772, the volcano of 
Papandayang, in the south-west part of Java, threw out such- 
a quantity of scoria? in one night that an area having a radius 
of seven miles was covered with a layer fifty feet thick ! Forty 
native villages were buried beneath it, and three thousand 
people perished! Still more d3structive was the eruption of 
Mount Gahengong (a few miles east of Papandayang) in 1822, 
on a day when not a cloud was to be seen, or a breeze stirring. 
Suddenly at noon a frightful thundering was heard in the 
earth, and a dense black mass poured from the crater of this 
volcano, of which no record existed of any previous eruption. 
It was clothed with forests to its summit, and the base was 
surrounded with highly cultivated farms, towns, and villages. 
In a few moments the whole landscape was shrouded in the 
darkness of night, and the scene was rendered still more 
appalling by flashes of lightning darting about in every direc- 
tion. A volley of hot water, mud, and stones shot from the 
crater like a waterspout, and poured down the mountain sides, 
carrying everything with it, trees, rocks, wild beasts, men, and 
animals blended in the seething mass. The eruption began at 
mid-day and subsided within four hours; the sky became clear 
again, and the sun which at noon had shed his glowing light 
over the rich landscape and peaceful homes of the people, at 
evening cast his rays upon the same region, then changed into 
a scene of utter desolation ! Nearly everything was destroyed 
within a radius of twenty miles. A second eruption, four 
days later, completed the catastrophe. This was accompanied 
by an earthquake. The summit of the mountain dropped 
down, and a lake rose in its place ; new hills and valleys were 
formed, and rivers were turned into new channels; over one 
hundred villages were destroyed, and four thousand people 
were killed. Islands near the sea coast have been known to 



444 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

suddenly disappear during great volcanic convulsions, and 
others to rise out of the sea in different places. The old 
harbor of Batavia was filled up and changed by volcanic 
action, and the marshes turned into fertile land. Thus this 
beautiful city, now justly called the Paradise of the East, was 
in the main redeemed from the deadly influences of malaria, 
which was so fatal to the early inhabitants. 

The total number of volcanic peaks in Java is said to be 
forty-six. About twenty of these are more or less in a state of 
activity. 

a visit to a wealthy estate. 

While at Batavia, we formed the acquaintance of a very 
Wealthy English gentleman, by the name of Wm. Dennison, 
He was the owner of a rich estate near Batavia, which we 
visited. He also owned a large estate in the interior, by the 
name of Korapan. He had obtained a promise of us to visit 
him at this place. A courier was dispatched with a note to 
Mr. Dennison to inform him of our arrival at Buitenzorg, and 
our readiness to visit him at Korapan at his convenience. 
The same evening we received the answer that he would 
expect us to take breakfast with him the following morning. 

KORAPAN TEA ESTATE. 

At early dawn we were called to take our coffee, with word 
that Mr. Dennison's coachman was waiting to take us to 
Korapan. An elegant English carriage had been sent for us, 
upholstered and cushioned with rich blue cloth, and drawn 
by four Javanese ponies. These little animals glide over the 
ground at a running pace, holding up their heads and tossing 
their manes as if delighted with the office of drawing a car- 
riage on a good Java road. Three changes of ponies were 
made in the tour of twenty miles. The route lay along the 
highlands of Java. To the north, we looked down into the 
deep valleys with their clear flowing streams and crystal 
cascades; beyond, rose the mountains, range upon range, until 
their summits were capped with snow. To the south, lay rich 
rural districts and groves of tropical trees. The peasants quit 
their work to look at us, bowing and taking off their hats as 



AROUND THE WORLD. 445 

We passed along. The road terminated in a broad avenue, 
with a double row of palm trees, at the time laden with ripe 
dates. The broad leaves hung in graceful festoons overhead, 
forming a magnificent archway one mile in length, which led 
to the residence of Mr. Dennison. He received us with great 
hospitality. We enjoyed all the comforts of a good English 
home, combined with the luxuries of the East. The house 
was built on the style of the houses in India, a deep, thick 
roof, broad halls, and wide verandas. We took breakfast on 
the veranda that overlooked the deep valley, the river 
winding among the green rice fields, and the mountains rising 
on the opposite side, clothed with rich foliage with varying 
shades of green. 

In taking a walk over the grounds, Mr. Dennison pointed 
out almost every variety of trees that bear the spices of the 
tropics, with those yielding the fruits and others possessing 
medicinal properties, as the clove, cinnamon, nutmeg, pepper, 
allspice, olive, orange, lemon, lime, citron, pomegranate, 
banana, fig, the shaddock or pomaloe, bread fruit, cinchona, 
kyaputa and many others. 

The nutmeg is of considerable size, and is covered with dark 
green leaves. The outer covering ol the nutmeg looks like 
that of the apricot. When ripe, it bursts open, disclosing 
the brown nutmeg covered with a net work of mace of a 
bright scarlet color. 

The clove is a large tree, and when covered with its beau- 
tiful clusters of white and pink wax-like flowers, is extremely 
pretty and unlike anything else on the island. 

In a group of these trees stood the baths, surrounded by a 
high thick wall, without a roof. Within the enclosure there 
was a fine hard pavement, with running water in open tiles 
along each side, there were groups of palms, and mounds, and 
terraces of flowers, hanging baskets and tanks of gold fish; 
there were marble bath tubs, tables, seats and hammocks sus- 
pended in shady arbors. The place was filled with the rich 
glow of the sunshine and musical with the songs of birds. 

Our special attendants served us daily with cool, refreshing 
drinks, prepared from the juice of delicious fruits, while 
dishes filled with the most choice varieties were constantly 



446 



TEX YEARS 1 TRAVEL 



before us. Mr. Dennison ordered his carriage and drove, with 
us over. his fine estate, which is forty miles in length by 
ten broad, and is valued at one million florins. He is 
noted for his temperate habits. Such a thing as the use 
of liquor in any form is not known on his estates. He had 
three others in Java besides Korap&n. He seldom made use of 
tea or coffee; he said that he found the fresh juice of the fruits 
the best drink that he could obtain. Every night he had a 
pomaloe, or some other luscious, fruit, taken to his chamber 
instead of a pitcher of ice water, or as many others do, a bottle 
of brandy. There was no regulation that Mr. Dennison 
enforced so rigidly among his workmen as temperance,: dis- 
missing, at once, any one in whom the use of liquor was 
detected. 

TEA CULTURE. 

A large portion of this estate was devoted to the culture of 
tea. There were also acres of coffee and cocoa or chocolate 

trees, and extensive rice 
fields. The work of 
gathering, curing, and 
packing the several pro- 
ducts was actively going 
on. 

Three hundred labor- 
ers were employed daily 
in the tea fiields at that 
time. When the season 
is good, the tea is gath- 
ered ten times during 
ars-a. plaht. the year. Some of the 

best tea-pickers gather from two to three pounds of the leaves 
daily, which they break off so as to give the tree a regular 
form, and to keep them of the same height. So level are the 
tops of the trees that the appearance of a tea held from a dis- 
tance, is that of a nice smooth lawn covered with green grass. 

CURINO THE TEA. 

At the warehouse, the tea passes through different hands in 
the process of curing; women sort the leaves and place them 




AROVNT) THE WORLD. 447 

on trays, which are then carried to men, who turn -the tea into 
sheet-iron kettles placed in a furnace, heated with a brisk fire. 
The tea is stirred for about twenty minutes, and then taken 
out and passed to men ,to roll and work under their hands, 
after the manner of kneading bread. It goes through the 
process of heating and rolling different times, and is then 
crisped and placed in deep round baskets and set over charcoal 
fires, until its flavoring is complete. It is finally packed in 
boxes ready for shipping. Copper kettles, so often spoken of as 
making the green tea so injurious, are never used in the drying 
houses of this estate. There are three varieties of the tea 
plant, from each of which both green and black tea may be 
prepared. Black tea is made from leaves which have baen al- 
lowed to ferment before drying, and green tea from leaves which 
have been quickly dried. Different qualities of strength and 
flavor in tea are due to the varieties of the plant, to the soil 
and climate, the age of the leaves, and the mode of curin : 
and drying them. The }'Oung^r leaves }^eld teas of the 
highest quality and the most delicate flavor. Black tea con- 
tains less theine, essential oil, and tanin, than green tea. The 
stimulating effects of tea upon the nervous system are due to 
the essential oil and the theine ; the tanin is an astringent. 

Another day we visited the rice fields, and the the mills, 
which were in operation shelling out the rice. Mr. Dennison 
had a dwelling house on this part of his estate, situated on an 
eminence in the midst of a grove of palm trees. Dinner was 
prepared for us, and men climbed the trees and brought down 
cocoa-nuts, from which we drank the refreshing liquid, 

A THUNDER oTORM. 

While we were here, a heavy thunder storm came up,, in 
wildest fury, which lasted for more than an hour. The flashes 
of lightning were so vivid and incessant that we had to cover 
our eyes. Such storms are very prevalent during the rainy 
season in Java. Mr. Dennison, stated that he was on one 
occasion driving in his carriage along the road near this house 
when a storm was coming on. His laborers were leaving the 
fields for shelter. Just b v V him, a man and a woman, recently 
married, were walking, when the lightning struck the woman 



448 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

and killed her, tearing her body to pieces and spattering her 
blood on his carriage. 

Another production of this estate is a very fine quality of 
lime thrown up by hot springs. Lime is extensively used by 
the natives in the preparation made from the betel nut and 
spices which they chew. 

A VISIT TO OTHER ESTATES. 

We decided to visit a gentleman from Holland, the owner of 
a very rich tea estate, which lay on the opposite side of the 
river among the mountains. As the great engineering skill 
which has been employed in the railways of the Ghauts, the 
Andes, and in the lofty mountain ranges in the United States 
has not yet reached the interior of Java, we had to adopt a 
novel mode of traveling. We set out in the carriage, but were 
met, at the descent into the valley, by men with chairs, who 
carried us down to the river, which we crossed in a large flat 
boat that was attached to ropes which slipped on a bamboo 
cable stretched across the river. On landing again, we took 
the chairs and were carried from height to height up the steep 
mountain side. We were a novel sight for the natives, who 
crowded the way to look at us as we passed. It was the first 
time that they had ever seen a white lady in that part of the 
country. 

The wealthy owner of the estate received us with great 
courtesy. We found his fine carriage waiting for us several 
miles before reaching his house. He said that he had obtained 
the carriage several years before in America, but that now, for 
the first time, he had the pleasure of giving Americans a drive 
in it. He took us all over his estate. We saw the tea-plant in 
the various stages of growth, from one month up to the full 
bearing tree. The dining table was spread before a large bay 
window, where we could look out upon the beautiful gardens 
of golden fruit and flowers. Extending around the house was 
a channel lined with cement, through which flowed a stream of 
water with a soft musical murmur. It seemed a veritable land 
of enchantment. 

On another day we crossed the river again, and visited the 
estate of a wealthy Chinaman. He had a fine large house 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



449 




450 



TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



with an open court in the center, laid with marble, and sur- 
rounded with marble columns. A few months previous to our 
visit, the lightning struck the roof and ran down one of these 
columns. The Chinaman was sitting near and was severely 
stunned by the electric discharge. After recovering, he had 
an altar erected near the spot, and placed an idol upon it, 
before which he daily offered prayer, in memory of his remark- 
able escape from death. He also required the members of his 
household to perform worship, as shown in the illustration. 



CARRIED IN A TANDO. 



While visiting here I was carried about the tea fields, over 
streams, and through the mountains in a tanclo, or tandook. 




rAV-ilTESE TA2TEO. 



This mode of travel was also adopted in other places 
our stay in Java. Our illustration shows one style 
tando. It is here made c.f very light mats, and is 
oblong box, widening as it descends. The roof is 
matting, and it has a lid-like door on each side. It 
extremely light and cool, and the porters, in their u 



during 
of the 
a great 
also of 
is thus 
mbrella 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



451 



hats and light traveling costume, make rapid progress with 
their burden. They are much used in mountain excursions, 
four men being employed where the journey is long, or the 
road more than unusually difficult. 

We had many pressing invitations to visit other estates. 
Mr. Dennison said he believed that we might travel the whole 
length of the island (about seven hundred miles) before we 
could exhaust such hospitalities, so great was the desire of the 
people to see and entertain us. 




There is a public road, made by the Dutch government, 
which extends through the entire length of the island. By 
this a delightful tour may be made in the midst of some of 
the richest and most luxuriant foliage of the island. Along 



452 



TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 




AROUND THE WORLD. 453 

this grand highway are rest houses for the traveler. They are 
built by wealthy men for the benefit of the public. Many of 
them are built with much care and are very ornamental. They 
are furnished with mats and fans, tea, rice, and water, free of 
charge, for travelers. Our illustratration shows one form of 
the zayat, or rest , house. 

In Java, Mohammedans are numerous, as they are in all the 
isles of the Asiatic Archipelago, and have their fountains and 
places of worship, as represented in the accompanying illustra- 
tion. 

Our visit to this part of Java was ended, and we returned to 
Batavia, but the impression of that period will ever remain 
one of the brightest treasures of memory, and will often be 
reviewed like a golden dream. 

BATAVIA. 

This city justly merits her title "Queen of the East." Her 
splendid avenues are shaded by beautiful trees, forming arch- 
ways which the rays of the sun can penetrate only at intervals, 
but everywhere its action is to embellish the foliage with 
marvelous hues. The many plumes of the cocoa-nut tree, 
bananas with their broad green leaves, the oleander, bunches of 
the tulip, cotton trees covered with snow-white tufts, the 
immense banyan, and palms of the most exquisite grace 
embower this Eden. Home life here is as enjoyable as^ in 
any city that we visited within the tropics. The charms and 
luxuries of tropical nature are a perpetual feast. Porcelain 
Vases with flowers and statuary embellish the grounds. The 
deep verandas are often laid with marble and hung with 
screens of the light and delicate Japanese style.* Good taste is 
combined with comfort and elegance. A light on a veranda 
in the evening is an an invitation to friends to call, and they 
may then introduce others to the family without waiting for 
further formalities. The ladies have adopted, for their morning 
costume, the easy habit of the native women, the hair falling 
naturally over the shoulders, the white short gown trimmed 
with lace, ruffles and buttons, the bright colored muslin skirt 
(sarong) and embroidered slippers. After sunset, both ladies 



454 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

and gentlemen drive in their carriages through the avenues 
and in the parks without their hats. At all evening enter- 
tainments they wear white gloves. 

A VOYAGE ALONG THE COAST. 

From Batavia we went by steamer to Samarang, one of the 
chief cities on the northern coast of Java. This is one of the 
places that has suffered seriously by the recent volcanic erup- 
tions and earthquakes. As the steamer touched at the different 
ports en route, the shell and sponge gatherers clustered round its 
sides in their little boats, laden with their precious cargoes. 
Many a beautiful specimen of delicate and brilliant shells and 
coral, fresh from the treasure caves of the sea, were exhibited. 
As their oars dropped we could see them through the limpid 
water, and an organge or any bright object thrown from the 
deck, we could see as it descended many feet into the silvery 
waters. 

The steamer stopped at Cheribon. This is the capital of a 
very rich coffee district, and is an active, flourishing place. 
Near the shore is one large volcano, with its cone red from the 
traces of destructive eruptions. In the distance, through the 
clear atmosphere, could be seen the towering peak of Mount 
Papandayang. On August 25, 1884, this suddenly split in 
seven pieces without a moment's warning ; and where Papan- 
dayang once stood, are now to be seen seven distinct peaks. In 
the open seams were great balls of molten matter, and from the 
fissures poured forth clouds of steam and burning lava, which 
ran down the mountain sides, forming in beds about three 
hundred feet in extent. 

* VISIT TO A MILLIONAIRE. 

On the second day of our voyage we arrived at Samarang. 
This is a large, wealthy city. The greatest millionaire of 
Java — a Chinaman — lives here. To a large inheritance he has 
added property to the value of forty million florins. We were 
invited to visit him at one of his houses a few miles from the 
city. he house is finely built, richly ornamented, and 
furnished in Chinese style. Tea was served for us on the 
veranda in a very costly tea set — on silver trays, with sugar 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



455 




456 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

bowl, sugar tongs, cream cup, and ringer bowls all of silver, 
and delicate china cups in silver filigree holders. The Chana- 
man's wife came out in her rich soft silks, and a very large and 
costly diamond on one of her fingers. She was very much 
interested in our travels. 

A CHINESE TEMPLE. 

In Samarang is a Chinese temple upon which has been 
lavished great wealth. It contains one of their celebrated 
idols. Lights are kept constantly burning before it, rice and 
tea are brought to it daily. The superstitious Chinaman 
kneels before it and offers his prayers with the simple belief 
that it receives nourishment from the food which he places 
before it as an offering. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 457 



CHAPTER III. 

Visit to the Emperor — Mountain Scenery — The Emperor 
and His Court — The Emperor's Harem — Great Lizards — 
Beauties of Rural Homes — Trees and Flowers — Trav- 
elers' Palm — The Deadly Upas Tree. 

HILE we were at Samarang, we made an excursion 
JOT! into the Interior for the purpose of seeing the native 
emperor and the royal palace at Solo, forty miles 
from the coast. Since 1810, Java has been governed by 
Holland, with the exception of five years, between 1811 and 
1816, when it was held by Great Britain. 

At the time of the conquest of Java by the Dutch, it was 
governed by two native rulers — the Emperor and the Sultan — 
between whom it was divided. Holland retains all her native 
rulers, from the village chief to the highest prince, who, as 
Regents, form the heads of the different districts. With each 
Regent is a Dutch resident. Holland keeps a /iceroy in the 
island, thus governing a colony of fourteen million people, a 
colony at once the most productive and prosperous in the 
world. 

MOUNTAIN SCENERY. 

On the route we had a magnificent view of the scenery of 
the tropics. From the level of the sea to the highest moun- 
tain peak, Java is clothed in a luxuriant vegetation. The 
forests and ravines exhibit the fullest developement of tropical 
luxuriance.. Majestic trees tower above the clustering boughs 
of spices, and these are interlaced with ferns and parasatic 
plants, and overrun with trailing vines so densely matted 
together that a bird can not flv among them, or even the 

58 



458 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

sunlight penetrate their verdure. The tropical heat, the vol- 
canic soil, and the abundance of pure mountain streams, 
conspire to make Java one of the most productive lands in 
the world. Plantations and villages cover the plains and 
mountain slopes. From Samarang to Solo one grand pano- 
rama meets the eye. The Garden of Eden in its pristine 
beauty could not surpass it. 

THE EMPEROR AND HIS COURT. 

We were introduced to the Emperor by the Dutch Resident. 
He received us in a large hall, where he, with his attendants, 
was seated in Court livery. His suit consisted of a skirt of 
richly figured eloth, gold embroidered slippers, a black velvet 
coat trimmed with gold lace and diamonds. His head was 
covered with a silk turban, surmounted by a tuft of feathers 
of some tropical bird. Rows of tigers' claws, set with gold 
and pearls, hung from the sides of his turban. One of his 
attendants held his betel-box, with spices for him to chew. 
Others had charge of his j eweled swords, the ancestral sword, 
the sword of the empire, and the warrior's sword of valor. 

THE EMPEROR'S HAREM. 

I was conducted to the apartments of the females, where I 
found twenty seated on a matted floor ready to receive me. 
They were of the usual Malay type of beauty, low in stature, 
with black hair and eyes, and golden complexion ; they are not 
so handsome as the Hindoo women, but possess more vivacit}^ 
and physical vigor. The conversation at once turned to dress 
— a topic so pleasing to ladies in general — and they, too, took 
pride in showing specimens of dress and needlework, mani- 
festing some interest in flowers made by the needle. 

I \Y a s carried in a sedan chair to inspect the natural flowers 
in the gardens. Two women followed with trays, which they 
filled with the choicest fruits and most delicately tinted 
flowers. They insisted that I should receive, not only of the 
fruits, but the trays themselves. Coffee was served, and seated 
on rich mats by a cascade, we partook. One leaf of velvety 
green of the great royal tree, formed my shelter from the 
tropical sun. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 459 



GREAT L ARDS. 

The garden and groves around it were filled with song birds 
of bright plumage. On the trees could be seen, bathing in the 
sunlight, great lizards so common in Java. They have a 
diamond shaped head about the size of the palm of the hand. 
Their croaking resembles some one singing out kro-k-a at short 
intervals. They come into the houses, but are easily fright- 
ened, and run away on being approached. They have long, 
sharp claws, and will scratch and cling to any one on whom 
they happen to fall. 

BEAUTIES OF RURAL HOMES. 

On our journey into the interior of Java, we had an oppor- 
tunity to observe the mode of life and the conditions of 
living, with the different classes of inhabitats. The cottage or 
hut of a peasant, usually costs, in its first construction, about 
two or three dollars. The walls are, in general, made of 
bamboo. The roof is thatched with long grass or leaves. In 
mountain districts, where there is much rain, the roofs are 
made of bamboo, split into halves, and joined to each other 
by their alternate concave and convex surfaces. The habita- 
tions of the peasantry of Java, even those in the most 
unfavorable situations and inhabited by the lowest classes, 
admit of considerable comfort, and far excel those of the 
same class in India. The better class of peasants build their 
houses with eight roofs — -four upper and four lower. The 
cottages are usually divided into five or six rooms. The 
houses are usually grouped in villages. The cottager plants 
around his house, such shrubs and trees as may be useful for 
fruit and shade. The village thus becomes completely 
obscured from the rays of the sun, and so buried in the 
luxuriant foliage that, at a short distance, no signs of human 
habitation can be seen. The residence of a numerous society 
thus appears only as a clump of evergreens. Nothing can 
exceed the beauty or the interest which such detached masses 
of verdure, scattered over the face of a country, and indicating 
the abodes of a happy peasantry, add to the scenery otherwise 



460 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

rich and varied, when viewed on the side of the mountain, in 
narrow vales, or extensive plains. 

TREES AND FLOWERS. 

The clumps of trees with which art attempts to adorn the 
most skillfully arranged parks, can bear no comparison in 
rural beauty and picturesque effect. No other country pro- 
duces so many varieties of iruit and flowers, or in such 
abundance, all of which afford luxury and furnish employ- 
ment for man. 

The ketangi, when full of blossoms, is one of the most 
beautiful trees existing. The sarver is a wood resembling 
mahogany. The soap tree produces a fluid used for washing 
linen. There are remarkable trees forty feet high, adorned 
withtthe most gorgeous and delicately tinted flowers. The 
Poinviaria Regia is one of this kind ; its flowers are a dazzling 
flame color, varigated with orange and red petals. It grows 
in wide spreading clusters, and at a distance gives the appear- 
ance of being on fire. The natives call it the fire tree. It is 
commonly called flamboyant. Though a native of Madagascar, 
it grows vigorously in Batavia. The leaf is of a dark green 
and rare delicacy, not unlike that of the sensitive tree, but 
does not appear until the flowers are out. A beautiful shrub, 
found in every garden in Java, is the Poinsetta Pulcherima, 
It has on the top of each branch a spray of brilliant crimson 
leaves. Amongst these, and close to the stock, grows the 
curious and tiny flower in bunches. It looks like a half 
opened red bud, in a green calyx, and has a bright yellow lip 
on each side, and long red stamens .; the leaves below are a 
bright green, and are often tipped with crimson. It is one of 
the most attractive objects in the tropical garden. In contrast 
with this is the glorious shrub or tree often growing twenty 
feet high — the Pisonia Alba — a tree of rare coloring. Its 
crowning branches are a pale yellow, gradually deepening as 
they become older, and shading downward into a perfect green. 
It is commonly called the cabbage tree. 

TRAVELER'S PALM. 

Ill what is called the traveler's palm, the stems of the broad 
graceful leaves, overtop each other in a sheath-like manner, so 



- l . ->iljN 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



461 







■ AVELI 






PAL 2^. 



462 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

as to contain water. Beneath a burning sky, the weary 
traveler beholds and hastens to this tree with delight to 
quench his thirst. Piercing it with his spear, he holds his 
cup to catch the cooling draught. 

THE DEADLY UPAS TREE. 

The eastern part of Java is noted for the production of the 
upas tree. It grows to a height of sixty or eighty feet without 
branches, and yields a milky juice which is used by the natives 
to poison their arrows. Tales are told of this tree, that the 
atmosphere around it is so deadly that it destroys the life of 
both men and beasts that sleep in its shade. Birds that fly 
over it get sick and die. 

The word upas means poison, and is associated by the natives 
with poison in general. A poisonous dew in some of the 
mountain districts, found on the grass, is called bohorn upas. 
The valley of poison to which the name upas is applied is 
simply an extinct crater filled with carbonic acid gas. It is a 
terror to the natives of the surrounding country. The bottom 
of this deadly pit is covered with bones of men and animals. 
Whatever enters it falls to the ground. A poisonous lake 
exists in the eastern part of the island, where the water is so 
noxious that no fish can live in it. All these phenomena are 
due to the volcanic action to which the island owes its very 
existence. One of the chief volcanic belts of the globe passes 
through the Malay archipelago, and traverses Java its entire 
length from east to west. These craters are filled with 
carbonic acid gas that exudes from the crevices of the ground. 

Returning to Samarang, we went by steamer to Sourabaya, 
the chief city on the eastern coast, and the principal port of 
Java. It is located on the strait of Madura. Twice in the bay 
of Sourabaya I barely escaped a watery grave. On passing an 
English steamer our little boat came around the stern and the 
two collided. I had just time to spring to the side next to 
the steamer, and extend my arms to the captain, who chanced 
to be leaning over the bulwarks. He caught me and drew me 
upon the deck. He said that although he had been on cea for 
many years, he had not seen so narrow an escape. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 463 

The second time we had been invited to dine on board the 
American barque Proteus, from Maine. Returning in the 
short tropical twilight, we were left in the darkness, and losing 
the channel, our boat ran on a sand bar, and just as it began to 
heave upon one side, the fury of the. waves loosed it, and we 
were once more safe. One not familiar with such experiences 
can not realize with what assurance we place our feet upon the 
solid ground. 



464 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



NINTH TOUR-AUSTRALIA. 



CHAPTER I. 



Voyage From Java to Australia — Islands and Tropical 
Seas — Theory of the Archipelago — Port Darwin — The 
Pearl Divers — Island of New Guinea — Perils of the 
Sea — First Visit to Sydney — Metropolis of the South 
Pacific — The History of Melbourne and San Francisco 
Compared. 

'^-.'jFTKR spending about four months in Java, we sailed for 
XV-, Australia. The voyage among the islands that dot the 
"^^ eastern seas and unfold their mystic beauties, is like a 
charming panorama. Scarcely less varied are the brightly 
tinted waters — purple, gold, azure, crimson, and emerald, all 
changing in quick succession into the most pleasing hues. 
The contrast between the volcanic and coral island is striking. 
The one standing out with bare black summit, the other 
clothed with verdure, but without a voice to break the silence 
other than the chattering of the parrot, or the wild note of the 
birds of beautiful plumage, or the hiss of the many kinds of 
serpents that lie coiled among the banches, so richly laden with 
fruits, gums, and spices. 

ISLANDS AND TROPICAL SEAS. 

In the first group of islands is Sumbawa, upon which stands 
the great volcano Tomboro. Twelve thousand persons per- 
ished in the eruption of this volcano in 1815. The air was 
darkened, and the ashes fell upon the earth and sea for three 
hundred miles around. 

The Malay archipelago is formed by a vast number of these 
islands, stretching about four thousand miles east and west, 



AROUND THE WORLD. 465 

and about thirteen hundred north and south. The three 
largest are: Borneo, New Guinea, and Sumatra. Voyages 
among these islands may occupy weeks and months, and 
delight the traveler with scenes as picturesque as can be found 
anywhere on the globe. 

THEORY OF THE ARCHIPELAGO. 

Scientists who have given the subject much study, are of the 
opinion that in the Malay archipelago we have evidence that 
these islands were once a vast continent, and that it was 
broken up by some catastrophe of nature, or by the silent, but 
no less effective forces that control the formation and changes 
of the earth. The earthquake is the favorite agency by which 
scientific men account for changes on so vast a scale. The 
peculiar flora and fauna of this region — so different from all 
other continents — and a remarkable sameness existing through- 
out the entire archipelago, has led many to look with much 
favor on this theory. Some others have supposed that a slow 
subsidence of that part of the ocean has left the higher parts 
of the continent extending from the water, while the valleys 
are the channels lying between the islands. 

PORT DARWIN. 

Port Darwin was the first point at which we touched. It is 
situated on the northern coast of Australia, and was named 
after the great English scientist It being the dry season, a 
number of miners from the gold fields came aboard with boxes 
of gold dust and nuggets, which they were taking to Sydney. 
In the dry season there is not sufficient water to carry on the 
mining operations. 

PEARL DIVERS. 

Among the passengers were pearl divers from the South 
Pacific Islands, who told of many daring adventures in the 
gathering of pearls from the "sea. They had boxes of shells, 
and showed some fine grey pearls. One of the largest pearls ever 
found is in the South Kensington Museum, in London. Its 
weight is three ounces, and it is nearly five inches in circum- 

59 



466 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

ference. It is of an opal tint and is mounted as a pendant, 
with a gold border. 

ISLAND OF NEW GUINEA. 

Passing through Torres' Strait, we could see the island of 
New Guinea. Its coast is covered with tropical vegetation, 
among which are the camphor tree, the sago, palm, banana, 
orange, nild nutmeg, and other species. These are the haunts 
of the bird of paradise, the crown pigeon, and parrots of most 
beautiful plumage. The beauties of Nature, as exhibited in 
these islands, contrast strangely with the developments among 
the rude and barbarous people. A short time previous, some 
missionaries had been killed and eaten by cannibals on the 
coast. One of the peculiar customs of the natives is their 
form of celebrating the marriage ceremony. A fried banana is 
eaten by the parties, with their hands joined. The ceremony 
is then over. 

On nearing the Australian coast we could see what we took 
to be shocks of corn, but we were told that they were the 
habitations of the black ant. It is said that white men have 
been taken by the natives, and after being plundered, were 
bound to the hills of these ants to be devoured. 

PERILS OF THE SEA. 

Our captain took the route between the Thousand islands — ■ 
the great coral reef and the coast — the scenery of which is 
grand in the extreme. Many steamers have been wrecked on 
this route by running on the rocks in the fog. We passed the 
wreck of the Singapore, which was sunk with a cargo of tea. 
Warned by the sad fate of others, the captain cast anchor 
every night. Nearing Sydney Heads, and feeling that the 
dangers of tne voyage were past, we were told that vessels 
often encountering rough seas for months in coming from 
England, had been wrecked on passing the Heads. 

The Ikiy of Sydney justly merits the name of being one of 
the lovliest in the world, and Sydney of being the " Queen 
City" of the South Pacific. Its public gardens are unsur- 
passed in the number and variety of its fruit, and its beautiful 
slopes reaching to the bay. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 467 



FIRST VISIT TO SYDNEY. 

Our steamer remained three days at Sydney, which gave us 
ample opportunity of seeing the principal sights of the city 
and harbor. The bay — so famed for its great beauty — is a 
magnificent expanse of water twenty miles in length, sur- 
rounded by land on all sides, except the Head. This is a 
narrow channel, having bold rocky shores, rising perpendic- 
ularly out of the water, to a height of two or three hundred 
feet. The general outline of the bay is picturesque and 
beautiful Numerous little bays indent the shores, surrounded 
by the verdure of the tropics. In other places, the margin 
presents a lower level, consisting of a series of sandy beaches. 
The site upon which the city stands, consists of a series of 
natural wharves, where vessels of two thousand tons burden, 
can cast anchor within a distance of twenty yards. The city 
is " beautiful for situation." With its broad streets, its 
elegant houses — equal to any in Europe — -it is calculated to be 
a metropolis. Its suburbs are clusters of little villas and 
cottages, surrounded by parks and gardens of oran -e trees and 
many other sub-tropical plants. 

METROPOLIS OF THE SOUTH PACIFIC. 

A voyage of four days brought us to Melbourne, the capital 
of Victoria. It is situated on the Yarra-Yarra river, about 
nine miles from Port Phillip — a beautiful inlet of the South 
Pacific, thirt -five miles in length. Its entrance is about two 
miles wide, and is formed by projecting promentories, called 
Heads. These are fortified, and Melbourne enjoys first rank 
among the ports of the British colonies, being the most 
important commercial city south of the Equator. 

HISTORY OF MELBOURNE AND SAN FRANCISCO 
COMPARED. 

Melbourne and San Francisco, were founded in the same 
year, 1835. In 1880, each had a population of twenty-five 
thousand souls, due in each case to the discover} 7 of gold, to 
which they owe their importance. To-day, each city boasts a 
population of a quarter of a million. Each in its province is 



468 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

the principal mart. While Melbourne has a formidable rival 
among the Australian cities — Sydney — 'San Francisco has no 
pier on the Pacific coast. It is the commercial center of the 
Pacific slope of North America, from the tropics to the frozen 
zone, and is bound to the the interior cities of the Union by 
railroads in many directions. Melbourne — considering its age 
— is a magnificent city. It stretches along the banks of the 
Yarra, on both sides, for several miles. The principal streets 
are wide, well paved, and lighted with gas. Along the curb- 
stones of many of the streets run streams of pure water, and 
during rains they become so rapid that children are sometimes 
washed away by the fury of the current. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 469 



CHAPTER II. 

Delightful Gardens — Reverses of Nature — Dust Storms 
Public Institutions — The Liquor Traffic — Horse Racing 
— Jeweled Ladies— Great Telescope — Agricultural Ex- 
position — Ostrich and Emu — The Kangaroo — Return to 
Sydney — Botanical Gardens — Lyre Bird — Anniversary 
Day. 

'HE delightful suburbs of Melbourne elicit universal 
praise from travelers. Long lines of villas surround 
the city on every side. Its parks and gardens are its 
glory. Among the numerous charming resorts are the botan- 
ical gardens. They are situated on the banks of the Yarra, 
about half a mile from the city, and cover an area of more 
than one hundred acres, and abound in a great number and 
variety of trees, plants, shrubs, and ornamental flowers — - 
snowy, crimson, and golden. The palms and ferns are of 
exceeding beauty, and the deep emerald of the foliage at this 
season is truly magnificent. It recalls the strange contrast with 
those northern climes where the brown and withered leaves 
are borne by the rustling blast and whirled by the eddying 
gust. A striking feature of the parks at Melbourne is their 
vast extent. They are not enclosures, but are laid out and 
planted in the most approved style. The eucalyptus (gum 
tree) is the natural tree of Australia. The wood is useful for 
ship building, railway ties, and other mechanical purposes. 
There are some thirty species of this tree. The foliage is 
beautiful, and the leaves possess a therepeutic value. In the 
mountainous district of Victoria, this tree almost rivals the 
renowned giants of California. 

REVERSES OF NATURE. 

The climate of Melbourne resembles that of New Orleans 
and the gulf states generally, except that the hottest month is 



470 TEX YEARS' TRAVEL 

January and the coldest is July. Frost forms occasionally dur- 
ing June, July, and August. In January, hay is cut and wheat 
harvest commences. This seems like a reverse of nature's laws. 
The mean temperature for the year is 59° fahrenheit, and the 
variations between the average temperature of January (mid- 
summer) and July (winter) is 19°. 

DUST STORMS. 

One peculiar feature of this region is its dust storms. The 
air is sometimes rilled with dust in clouds so great and dense 
as to render it quite dark, and the forts on the Yarra are often 
as sandy as the Arabian desert. Because of these dust storms, 
life in the metropolis is anything but desirable. 

PUBLIC I N - T I TU T I O N S . 

Nothing gives greater proof of the wealth and enterprise of 
Melbourne than the rapidity with which so many noble insti- 
tutions, which adorn the city, have been created. Among 
these are the University, the Post-office — a most magnificent 
building of Italian style, elaborately ornamented — the Parlia- 
ment House, the Exposition building, and the Public Library, 
containing one hundred and fifty thousand volumes. In each 
of the suburbs are other libraries nearly as large, and accessible 
twelve hours daily, free of charge. The city has numerous 
churches, and frequently large assemblies gather m the parks for 
worship. As in all great cities, sin abounds in Melbourne, and 
gold is the chief idol. Jails are quite numerous, but the laws 
are badly administered ; the guilty are often screened and the 
innocent crushed. 

THE LIQUOR TRAFFIC. 

At nearly every corner on the public streets are drinking 
saloons. Handsome young women are employed as bar maids, 
as attractions to the customers. The wages paid are liberal 
and thus an inducement is given which allures thousands 
from the path of virtue to the ways of ruin. In taking a 
morning walk more dissipated women may be seen than can 
be found in any similar city in the world, where I have vis'ted. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 471 

HORSE RACINC 

The greatest event of' the year in Australia is the spring 
races — the derby day, cup day, and steeple chase day. The 
extraordinary popularity of horse racing, and the fascination 
it holds over the English mind, is remarkable. It is equaled 
as a popular sport only by the Spanish bull fight. How much 
better the one than the other? What can we say of any 
community where one hundred thousand persons of all ages 
and conditions, and of both sexes, assemble to bet on horse 
races and to gamble ? What to see boys in their teens run 
horses on the track for miles, leaping fences five feet high, 
stone walls, and other obstructions, until the horses fall dead 
from sheer exhaustion? Yet it is a fact that no pvent of the 
year in Australia can command such crowds, such intense 
interest, as do the spring races. They are the talk of all classes 
for weeks before the time appointed, and bets are made even 
to the remotest corners of the great continent on the result. 

JEWELED LADIES. 

One great attraction of the races was the ladies' dresses. 
There had been no end to the extravagant gossip about two 
dresses of Asiatic splendor, that were to appear on cup day. 

Mrs. S was to wear a dress and jewels worth forty 

thousand dollars ; and Mrs. B — , not to be outdone, was to 

wear fifty thousand dollars' worth of diamonds and lace on 
her bodice. When these ladies appeared so richly attired, 
they were escorted by police to protect their robes and jewels 
from plunder. 

THE OREAT TELESCOPE. 

On certain evenings of the week, admission may be obtained 
into the royal observatory. Here is one of the largest- 
telescopes in the world, there being but few others of equal 
power — that of Lord Ross of London, of Paris, and one at Dub- 
lin. We had the privilege of seeing some of the wonders of 
the stars and nebulous groups through this great instrument. 

AORICULTURAL EXPOSITION. 

Desiring to see the natural productions of the southern 
hemisphere, we attended the annual spring fair. The leading 



472 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

exhibits were the machinery for mining, and the live stock 
The sheep were remarkable for quality, their wool being long 
and silky. 

OSTRICH AND EMU. 

Among the birds, were the white ostrich from the ostrich 
farms near Melbourne. Many of these are noted for their long 
and elegant plumes, having as many as twenty in each wing. 
Ostrich feathers are sometimes borne as a heraldic charge. 
Three white ostrich feathers, are the well known badge of the 
Prince of Wales. According to tradition they were assumed 
in consequence of Edward, the Black Prince, having plucked a 
p'ume of ostrich feathers from the casque of John of Luxem- 
bourg, king of Bohemia, whom he slew in battle. 

The emu is a native of Australia. It resembles the ostrich, 
but its wings are mere rudiments concealed beneath tufts of 
feathers. When assailed, it strikes obliquely backward with 
its foot with such violence as to break a man's leg. Its skin 
contains an oil, nearly two gallons in a single bird. On this 
account it is much hunted. 

THE KANGAROO. 

Forty-six species of native quadrupeds are found in 
Australia, of which the kangaroo is the largest. It belongs to 
the marsupials or pouched animals. Formerly they were so 
tame as to receive fruit from the hands of a person, until 
some of them were shot by an officer of the ship's crew. 
They once existed in great numbers. Their flesh is esteemed 
for food, and their fur furnishes an elegant article to line 
cloaks and robes. It is also used for mats and rugs. It is of 
a soft brown color and moderately long. Hunting the kan- 
garoo is a sport engaged in by both men and women. They 
go out on horses, and pursue their game at break-neck speed, 
riding over ditches and fences with impunity. 

RETURN TO SYDNEY. 

After a sojourn of about four months in Melbourne, we 
returned to Sydney, landing at mid-night, after a voyage of 
four days, just as the year 1877 was passing away. The place 
was thronged with people — friend meeting friend, all light 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



473 



hearted and happy. Church bells rang, songs greeted the ear 
and the shouts arose from the multitudes which filled the 
streets. Sydney contains upwards of one hundred and twenty 
churches, many elegant public buildings, and the Governor's 
residence. 

THE BOTANICAL OARDENS. 

Extending along the bay from the Governor's park, are the 
Botanical Gardens. They cover about thirty-eight acres, and 
are very fine, containing trees, plants and flowers of every 
clime. The tree ferns are remarkable for their size and 
beauty. Some resemble palm trees in their woody trunks, 
sending from their summits their leaf-like fronds (often called 
leaves), which form a graceful canopy under which we may 
sit, secure from the rays of the sun. 

LYRE BIRD. 

In one part of the garden is a collection of the birds of 

Australia and the 
islands of the South- 
ern ocean. Of these, 
the Lyre Bird is the 
most conspic uous. 
Had the ancients 
known this bird, 
they would certain- 
ly have consecrated 
it to Apollo, its lyre 
shaped tail and flex- 
ible voice giving it 
a double claim to 
that honor. The 
tail, which consists 
of sixteen feathers, 
is often ten feet long. 
The feathers are ar- 
ranged in the form 
of an ancient lyre. 
L-riJB siisjd. When merely held 

«i'! ct. the two outside feathers cross each other and present a 




474 TEA YEARS' TRAVEL 

different outline. The central feathers, when the tail is 
spread, resemble the strings of the lyre. The tail is seen in 
its greatest beauty during the months of July and August, 
after which it is shed. Its greatest stronghold is New South 
Wales. It is of a wandering disposition, and although it 
keeps to the same bush, it constantly traverses it from moun- 
tain base to top. The rugged gullies present no obstacle to its 
long and muscular legs. It feeds on insects and centipeds. 

ANNIVERSARY DAY. 

New South Wales is the oldest colony in Australia, and 
Sydney, its capital, the oldest city. January 20, 1788, is the 
date of the arrival of the first party of British settlers, and 
this is celebrated as an anniversary day. Places of business 
and the homes are deserted for the public attractions of the 
celebration. 

The main feature of the day was the regatta. The shores of 
the bay were thronged with people, who enjoyed the pure air. 
picniced and watched the boats glide over the water. In the 
center of the bay was anchored the flag ship and men-of-war, 
with the royal standard of England floating at their mast 
heads. Around them rowed the yachts, of various descrip- 
tions. The harbor was literally alive with them. At the 
time of the races the scene was animated and beautiful. The 
firing of cannon, martial music on the vessels and in the 
parks, combined with pyrotechnic display, made a feature 
truly festive and long to be remembered. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 475 



TENTH TOUR-CHILI. 



CHAPTER I. 



Forty-Three Days on the Pacific — The Albatross — Two 
Fridays in One Week — Our Landing at Valparaiso — -The 
Andes — Political Tboubles — A Visit to Santiago — Burn- 
ing of a Jesuit Church — Voyage From Chili to Peru — 
Arica — Great Tidal Wave. 

jjN the ninth day of March, we sailed from Sydney for 
Will Valparaiso, on an American sailing ship. Our voyage 
occupied forty-three days. The many storms which we 
encountered made us realize the terrors of a storm at sea. In 
one gale, three of the sails were carried away from the main 
mast. Great waves running mountain-high and furiously 
lashing against our ship, the captain's voice speaking through 
his trumpet, and the creaking of the cordage, combined to 
form a scene that threatened instant destruction. We went as 
far south as 51°, through a cold, dreary region. Day after day 
the same monotonous dull billows, clouds, rain showers, and 
rainbows presented themselves. Occasionally a great sperm 
whale was seen. 

THE ALBATROSS. 

On days when the sea was calm it was delightful to sit on 
deck and watch the great sea birds sailing around the ship. 
None were so beautiful as the albatross. They followed our 
ship for days, at times sailing around it in wide circles, and 
then returning so near as to almost touch the masts, recalling 
the lines of Moore: 



476 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

"A ruined temple towered so high, 
That oft, the sleeping al batross 
Struck the wild ruin with her wings, 
And from her cloud-rocked slumbering 
Darted — to find man's dwelling there 
In her own silent fields of air ! " 

The albatross is thought to sleep on the wing, so long does 
she remain without alighting. The mate of our ship caught 
one that measured sixteen feet across its wings. Its body was 
four feet long, with webbed feet ; its plumage was snowy 
white, and its deep set eyes were large and black. This bird 
is truly a mystery. We wonder not that the explorers of the 
southern clime cheered themselves with' it companionship. It 
is to these regions what the white steed is to the Arabian 
desert. 

TWO FRIDAYS IN ONE WEEK. 

On the twenty-second of March, we crossed the one hundred 
and eightieth meridan — -frequently used instead of the inter- 
national date line, to duplicate the day in sailing eastward. It 
was Friday, and we added another Friday, making two in the 
same week. The necessity of such a line may be made mani- 
fest thus: When it is 9 a. m. July 1st in Singapore, longitude 
104° east, what time is it at Manila, longitue 121° 30' east? 
The difference reckoned eastward is 17° 30', which corresponds 
to ten o'clock and ten minutes a. m., July 1st. Westward, the 
difference is 342° 30', corresponding to ten o'clock and ten 
minutes a. m., June 30th, making a difference of one day. 
Both can not be right, and therefore to correct the calendar in 
crossing this line, sailing, eastward, one day is added; or 
dropped on passing it going westward. This was the first time 
in my life when I passed two Fridays in the same w r eek. 

LANDING AT VALPARAISO. 

Our voyage ended by our arrival at Valparaiso on Good 
Friday, April nineteenth. In Catholic countries, a great 
festival is held on this day. On account of these festivities, 
but one pilot came to meet us, and he asked — w T hat he claimed 
— the moderate sum of seventy-five dollars to conduct the ship 



AROUND THE WORLD. 477 

into the harbor. Valparaiso means, Vale of Paradise. The 
name is not appropriate, for it is very destitute of vegetation. 

THE CITY 

Occupies a semi-circular valley between the mountains and 
the bay. It has a population of about eighty thousand. The 
longest street is about two miles and a half, and can be seen 
by taking a ride on a tram car for five cents. On the tops of 
the Sierras, are groups of houses — separated by ravines — occu- 
pied by European families. From the Sierras, which are 
spurs of the Andes, is obtained a magnificent view of the bay, 
where float the flags of all nations. Below lies the city ; 
above may be seen the Cordilleras, with their snow-capped 
peaks, among which is Aconcagua, twenty-two thousand feet 
above sea level — the highest of the Andes. In some places a 
garden attached to some public institution or to the palace of 
a man of wealth, enlivens the scene. A few terraces of 
verdure upon the Sierras may be seen, but the back ground is 
made up of grey mountains, rising one above another, until 
lost in perpetual snows. There is a large European popu- 
lation in Valparaiso, whose shops and stores would do credit- 
to any city. The streets are clean and well paved. Some of 
the sidewalks are laid with smooth blue slate. The market 
supplies fruit in great abundance, especially grapes and pears. 

THE ANDES. 

The great source of wealth to the South American republics 
is their minerals obtained from the Andes. The word Andes 
means metal, or particularly, copper. Every metal used in 
the arts is found in the Andes. Copper is a staple of Chili; 
gold has been found and some silver, but it is proverbial there 
that a gold mine is poorer than a silver, and a silver mine 
poorer than a copper. An Englishman in Valparaiso, upon 
removing some stones from his lot, found a bed of quicksilver 
from which he could dip the metal in spoonfuls. As quick- 
silver or mercury is usually found in composition with 
sulphur, as cinnabar, the existence of the liquid may be 
explained upon the theory of volcanic action. Great results, 
due to this agency, have been produced in Chili. The whole 



478 TES YEARS' TRAVEL 

continent is said to have been elevated by that force. In 
1822, the coast was raised several feet, and Valparaiso almost 
destroyed. Around the bay of Coquimbo, there is evidence of 
five movements of the coast, forming an amphitheater in five 
concentric terraces. There was a permanent change of level 
over a space of more than one hundred thousand square 
miles. Chili contains thirty volcanoes, each at times active. 

POLITICAL TOUBLES. 

Chili has had some political eruptions, the most noted of 
which was the seizure of the country by Almago, a companion 
of Pizarro, after the conquest of Peru. The struggle for 
independence, and the bombardment in 1886, by the Spanish 
squadron, when the custom house and much property belong- 
ing to foreigners were destroyed. 

A VISIT TO SANTIAGO. 

We made a journey to the capital by rail — a distance of one 
hundred and fourteen miles. This road was built in 1855, by 
Henry Meiggs, and was the first built b}^ that remarkable man. 
On leaving Valparaiso we were soon in the midst of the Cor- 
dilleras — the foot hills of the Andes. The whole route lies 
among the mountains, and is picturesque in the extreme. 
Santiago is one of the lovliest cities in South America. It is 
situated among the mountains at an elevation of eighteen 
hundred feet, in ths midst of a fertile plain, where grow 
oranges, lemons, figs and grapes. Its scenery is choice and 
pleasing. The city is like Philadelphia — laid out with the 
regularity of a chess board — and contains a population of one 
hundred and eighty thousand, The Alameda is shaded by 
tall poplar trees, and cooled by two streams of running water. 
The principal plaza, where the cathedral stands, contains two 
fountains, which throw jets of water in columns of spray to 
the height of thirty feet. The center contains a circular 
parterre surrounded by an ornamental railing. From the 
plaza to the principal street, is an arcade in the form of a cross, 
covered with glass, built in French style, and recalls the Palace 
Royal in Paris. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 479 

BURNING OF A JESUIT CHURCH. 

In another square, stands the monument of those who 
perished in the burning of the Jesuit church, December 8, 
1863, in which perished nearly two thousand men, women and 
children, of all ages and ranks. During the services, some of 
the ornaments took fire, and the flames spread rapidly. A 
rush was made for the door, which was soon closed by falling 
persons in haste to make exit. Help from the outside was 
inadequate to extricate the mass until nearly all perished in 
the flames. 

VOYAGE FROM CHILI TO PERU. 

On May twentieth, after spending one month in Chili, we 
sailed for Peru. The voyage was mostly made in sight of the 
same grey precipitous coast that every where strikes the eye 
when a view of the Pacific coast is gained. To the scientific 
eye, there is beauty and instruction in every thing. An 
American Archaeologist describes the coast as follows: '"No 
portion of the coast has bolder or more marked features than 
Peru. In no part of the world has nature assumed grander 
forms." Along the coast is a belt of desert intersected by 
valleys of wonderful fertility, or relieved near the mountains 
b}' oases not less fertile. Succeeding this belt, inland rise the 
Cordilleras, notched by gorges through which flow streams fed 
by melting snows. Ascending the mountain, we find an 
elevated ridge bristling with snowy and volcanic peaks, and 
often spreading out upon broken and arid plains or deserts. 
This broad and frozen belt, varying in height from fourteen 
thousand to eighteen thousand feet, is succeeded in the south 
of Peru and Bolivia, by the great terrestrial basin of lakes 
Titicaca and Aullagas, completely enclosed by the Andes and 
Cordilleras. North of this, the two ranges again separate, 
forming the vast Andean plateau — the Thibet of America, 
deeply grooved by streams, all of which find their way to the 
Amazon. 

ARICA— GREAT TIDAL WAVE. 

On the third day, at sunset, we cast anchor at Arica — a 
desolate looking town — situated on a bay deeply indenting 



480 TEX YEARS' TRAVEL 

the coast. This town was almost destroyed by an earthquake 
in 1868. The volcanic waves from the north and from the 
south met here, and swept everything up the valley before 
them. The wave was a wall of sea forty or fifty feet high — 
capped with glistening foam — that swept inland, carrying 
everything before it, and returning, completed the destruction 
of the town, sweeping people, houses, railway locomotives, and 
trains into the bay; so what was left from the fury of the 
earthquake fell a victim to the fury of the great tidal wave. 
Sounds like the reports of heavy artilery, were heard during 
the earthquake. The United States' war ship, Wateree, was 
stranded on the beach, one half mile from the coast, where it 
still remains. 

On the twenty-fifth of May, we reached another port on the 
coast of Peru — Mollendo. This city is connected by rail with 
' Arequipa — the second city of Peru. From Arequipa, a rail- 
way extends to Puna, two hundred and thirty-two miles 
distant. This line crosses the Andes at a height of nearly 
fifteen thousand feet. Puna is situated on the borders of Lake 
Titicaca. 

In seven days our voyage ended. The steamer entered the 
Bay of Callao, on May 27th, and cast anchor in a group of 
steamers of the Pacific Navigation Company, which controls 
the trade of the entire south Pacific coast. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 481 



ELEVENTH TOUR-PERU. 



CHAPTER I. 

Callao — The Buried City — Scenes in the Valley of the 
Rimac — Spanish Houses — The Climate of Peru — Ladies 
of Peru — Churches a*jd the Tomb of Pizzaro — Festi- 
vals at Lima — Patron Saint of Lima — The Egg Festival 
—Good Friday and Easter — A Fallen Angel. 

^HE Bay of Callao is among the finest in the world, and 
is generally filled with steamers and sailing vessels. A 
monitor, which belonged to the United States during 
the Rebellion, lay at anchor in the bay. Here, floating docks 
are used instead of dry docks. These docks draw only four 
feet of water, but can be put down sufficiently to take in a 
vessel of twenty-one feet draught, and can lift five thousand 
tons. The hulls of fourteen ships are anchored in the harbor, 
having been dismasted in a hurricane on the coast. Moored 
in the bay is the British store ship, Naiad, once used at 
Trafalgar, where Nelson was slain. 

We stepped upon shore in the midst of a group of brightly 
uniformed custom house officials. Relieved from the monot- 
onous view of the dreary coast line, sandy wastes, and bare 
table lands, we welcomed the glad change, and felt that Peru, 
whose history is invested with the glamour of romance, still 
posessed many novel features of life. The sun was just rising 
above the crest of the Andes when the bells of Callao tolled the 
hour for morning mass. Groups of ladies in their black manias 
were seen carrying their hymn books and rosaries. The mar- 
ket place was full of activity, and bright with fruits and 
flowers. Peasants in their peculiar customs, on panniered 



482 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

donkeys, were bringing in the fruits of the country. As the 
milk carriers went from house to house and called out lech-e 
(milk-ho), the latticed windows were thrown open and a vessel 
was let down by a rope to receive the milk. A few moments 
later the same process was repeated when the cry of the 
baker saluted the ear. With the exception of a few blocks, the 
houses of Callao are common structures, built with a view of 
the demands of the climate and the frequent recurrence of 
earthquakes; the lower story adobes, and the upper usually 
reeds or bamboo daubed with mud, covered with plaster, 
painted some lively color, and ornamented by mouldings. 
They present a very unique appearance. The windows, which 
project over the side walks, are without glass, and usually 
grated with iron bars. All these precautions are necessary t© 
protect the house against earthquakes. 

THE BURTED CITY. 

The present site of Callao is just north of the old city, 
destroyed in 1746 by an earthquake. With one tremendous 
throe the sea bottom was heaved up in one place and depressed 
in another, causing an enormous wave to sweep over the city, 
and to gulp down five thousand people in less than three minutes! 
The remains of the houses are still to be seen in the water. 
The city was fortified, having a wall and thirteen bastions, 
each bearing the name of some saint. It contained the 
viceroy's palace, the governor's residence, six churches, and 
six large monasteries. Only one monk escaped, he being away 
at the time. The sad catastrophe did not prevent the rebuild-- 
ing of the city, which at present has a population of thirty 
thousand. 

SCENES IN THE VALLEY OF RIMAC. 

Callao is the chief port of entry of Peru, and connected with 
Lima, the capital, by two railways, one English and the other 
American. The broad valley — extending from the Pacific to 
to the Sierras— has a productive soil, which with proper 
cultivation, might be turned into a successson of gardens pro- 
ducing a variety of tropical fruits. Fields, enclosed by adobes, 
are planted in cotton, maize, and sugar cane ; and near the 



AROUND THE WORLD. 483 

streams are luxuriant gardens of tropical fruits. The plain 
abounds in sepulchral mounds, the remains of towns and 
temples of ancient tribes who lived here prior to the Spanish 
Conquest. Scientists claim that Peru contains archaeological 
lore, as inexhaustable as her treasures of silver and gold — that 
there has been found eveidence of a race anterior to the Incas, 
at a period far beyond the domain of history. Along the 
route of the English railway from Callao to Lima, is the car- 
riage road, bordered on both sides by rows of Eucalyptus 
Globulus, affording a delightful shade. On the American line 
is one of the superb villas of the late Henry Meiggs. Here he 
was buried, and a monumental tomb is to be erected to his 
memory. I visited his daughter, who is married to an English 
gentleman. 

The city of Lima occupies both banks of the Rimac, and 
lies near the base of the Andes, six miles from the coast. 
Pizarro laid it out in 1535, and gave it the name of the "City 
of the Kings." It is sometimes called the " s Paris of South 
America," containing a population of one hundred and fifty 
thousand inhabitants. The streets are narrow, crossing at 
right angles — some paved with rubble stones from the coast. 

SPANISH HOUSES. 

Spanish houses are generally built of adobe, plastered on 
the outside and stained with various colors. They are from 
one to two stories high, with flat roofs, and balconies from the 
second floor. A large double door opens in front, with an iron 
grated window on each side, projecting over the sidewalk. 
Some have a lookout on the top. Within is an open court, in 
some cases laid with marble, but usually with flat stones or 
rubble. A corridor extends around the inside from each floor. 
The apartments open into the court. Peruvian dwellings con- 
tain no fire places, although during a part of the year much 
discomfort is experienced. 

It does not rain at Lima, but two well marked seasons may 
be distinguished — summer and winter. In the wet season, a 
heavy mist prevails, sufficient to produce mud in the streets, 
or to wet a person thoroughly, but not to [cleanse the slippery 
street. 



484 TEN YEARS 1 TRAVEL 

Lima is the paradise of women. They are famous for 
their beauty, ebony tresses, and black but not the dreamy 
eyes of the harems, nor yet the sparkling black eyes of the 
Syrians, nor the liquid black eyes of the Egyptians, but 
ej^es that reveal almost an entirely different type of character. 
Peruvian ladies have character, and are not afraid to show it ; 
yet we hear nothing of equal rights among them. For them 
to lay claim to a right is to possess it, for they can easily 
win over the priesthood, and thus have the most potent power 
in Peru on their side. They are generally occupied, but do 
not work, looking upon labor as degrading. They rise early, 
take a cup of tea, and go to mass. Their walking suits are 
neat and very pretty. Their dress is black and never touches 
the ground, They wear the manta thrown over the head, 
falling gracefully to the bottom of the skirt. The manta 
resembles the black silk shawl worn by ladies in the states. 
From one side, about a yard from the corner, remove all the 
fringe and insert black lace about two inches deep, and you 
have a manta. The manta gives the charm to the Spanish 
ladies, in the eyes of the foreigners. They all praise it ; it has 
an advantage : it conceals defects in the face, and sets off to 
advantage the charms of beauty. To drape one's self in a 
manta, requires much taste. The subject of dress claims most 
of the attention of Peruvian ladies. Their ball, opera, and 
soiree dresses are magnificent. A lady never goes alone — two 
or three walk together, and a black female servant walks 
behind. Girls are carefully escorted wherever they go. Court- 
ing is done in the presence of older people, who manage love 
affairs so well that all the ladies usually marry, and they settle 
their property rights before marriage. 

Peruvians are very courteous ; their mode of salutation is 
more of an embrace than anything else, and they say : " My 
house and all I have is at your disposal, and we are to be as 
one family." The ladies smoke cigarettes. Though hand- 
some when young, they soon begin to fade. They never lose 
their grace; their movements always being easy and gentle. 
Although the streets are narrow, you are jostled less in Lima 
in one month than in New York in one day. 

Ladies are fond of shopping ; they never tire, or find any 



AROUND THE WORLD. 485 

thing too trivial to occupy their time. They are never in a 
hurry. If a lady wears a hat, or is dressed well on going to 
market, a price is at once set on her head. In this respect, 
they do not differ much from other nations. Everywhere 
dress, rank and nationality must be paid for. A king once 
was passing through a town in Holland and bought two eggs, 
for which his majesty was asked thirty dollarb, " Surely," he 
said, "eggs must be scarce in this town." "No, sir," replied 
the landlord, " but kings are." 

CONVENTS AND CHURCHES. 

No city contains so many or such large convents as Lima. 
One may walk for blocks along convent walls. These contain 
immense treasures. Churches, with beautiful domes and 
ornamental carvings in front, are the chief architectural 
attractions of the city. On fete days the images, gems and 
paintings exhibited, baffle description. 

When Pizarro founded Lima, he laid the corner stone of the 
Grand Cathedral, to serve the double purpose of a church and 
his own mausoleum. The building was nearly destroyed in 
1746. It was then restored at a cost of half a million dollars, 
and is the best church in South America. The remains of 
the hero were interred in the cathedral, agreeable to his wish. 
When we visited this tomb, the sexton, candle in hand, led 
the way into the gloomy vault under the altar. Lifting the 
dusty curtain, he exposed, in a niche, a skeleton covered with 
an old Spanish cloak. " Francisco Pizarro," he said, and 
snatching off a few pieces of cloth, he handed them round as 
relics of the hero. The teeth, fingers and some of the bones 
have been carried away as relics. 

FESTIVALS AT LIMA, 

Every day is dedicated to some saint in the Roman Catholic 
calendar of Peru. On about three days out, of seven, the 
ringing of the bells announce some grand festa. At twelve 
o'clock rockets are fired from the dome of the cathedral where 
the saint is to be adored. Every now and then comes the 
general holiday, when business houses are closed, and all busi- 



486 TEJS YEARS' TRAVEL 

ness, however urgent, must be postponed for the worship of 
the saint of that day. 

PATRON SAINT OF LIMA. 

About two centuries ago, there lived at Lima, a lady by the 
name of Rosa, who bequeathed a large amount of property to 
the church, and thus won for herself the title of "Patron Saint 
of Lima." Her tomb is in the grand cathedral, and once a 
year a grand celebration is held in her honor. On Santa 
Rosa's Day, August 30th, early in the morning, cannon at the 
fortress give the signal for the troops to assemble. [ took my 
seat inside ot the grating of the window in one of the houses' 
facing the street. Here I had a good view of the procession. 
We lived near the plaza on the principal street which runs by 
the cathedral, thus becoming a spectator to all the scenes and 
events that drew the people to the palace, the cathedral, and 
government buildings. From the flag staffs of the consuls 
and foreign ministers, floated their country's flags. The bells 
proclaimed the advent of the glorification of Lima's patron 
saint, and military bands announced the approach of the 
procession. Peru being at war, the martial music electrified 
the people, and filled the streets, the balconies, windows, and 
the courts with people. To hear the politicians talk, one would 
believe the Peruvians the bravest and the Chilians the most 
cowardly people in the world. General Prado has greatly 
improved the condition of the army, which a few years before 
was without drill or uniform. Many of the soldiers were very 
small. It would almost take two of them to make one of the 
Highlanders who form the viceroy's guard in India. The 
cavalry were clad in coats of mail. The army was drawn 
up around the plaza. Many of the officers were young and 
enthusiastic, apparently better fitted for the hall room than 
the battle field. 

In the cathedral — which was elegantly decorated for the 
occasion — a grand orchestra of master musicians caused the 
dome to resound with harmonious strains. Before the altar 
stood the arch-bishop, with the bishops and officiating priests, 
in robes of heavy gold cloth and sparkling mitres. The image 
of Santa Rosa was brought forth in velvet, worked with gold 



AROUND THE WORLD. 487 

and trimmed with lace sparkling with gems. It was carried 
around the square on a magnificent dias, broidered with gold 
and ornamented with flowers* The priests chanted hymns 
and burned incense, and the people strewed with flowers the 
ground over which the relics were to be carried. A hand- 
some casket was borne behind the image, said to contain the 
bones of Santa Rosa. The imposing ceremonies lasted for four 
hours, and the fete ended by the ringing of bells and the firing 
of cannon. 

THK EGG FESTIVAL,. 

This carnival at Lima is celebrated in a peculiar manner. 
The streets are deserted, the houses closed, and the street cars 
stop running. No one goes out except those who are bent on 
sport. For weeks before the festival, baskets of egg shells are 
kept on sale all through the city. A small hole having been 
made in one end and the contents removed. At the time of 
the carnival, men and boys think it fun to carry pockets of 
these shells, filled with water, which they throw at the passer 
by Little boys increase the mischief by throwing dirty water 
from sponges. Sometimes women conceal themselves in the 
windows and throw buckets of water on passers, thoroughly 
drenching them. The festival lasts three days, and closes on 
Ash Wednesday. Palm Sunday enjoys a festival such as is 
celebrated in Catholic countries. There it is usually brilliant. 

GOOD FRIDA.V AND EASTER. 

The most important festival of the year takes place at this 
time. Thursday at noon, preceding Good Friday, all business 
houses are closed, and not a horse, or even a dog, is permitted 
to go on the streets. Silence reigns everywhere, broken only 
b} r the footfalls of worshippers. Putting on a mania — the usual 
church going costume — I went forth to see the mysteries of 
the city. The street lamps were dimly burning. Every one I 
met approached more like a dusky phantom than a living 
being. I first went to the Merced— one of the most noted of 
the sixty cathedrals in the city. The nave and the columns 
were draped in black silk crape, bordered and starred with 
silver. Images among flowers, and burning wax candles repre* 



488 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

sented the various stages in the passion of Christ. Before the 
high altar was a table spread to represent the " Last Supper/' 
surrounded by figures of the Savior and his disciples. > he 
altar was profusely decorated with flowers, and brilliantly 
illuminated. The side altars also were decorated, and the 
people passed to them and paid for the privilege of kissing one 
of the images, or lighting a wax taper to place among the 
group. 

I visited the principal cathedrals, all of which were decorated 
with rich treasures, displaying amassed wealth, which properly 
dispensed, would enrich many such countries as Peru. The 
seen? of the cross and the crucifixion were portrayed with 
the rending of the veil ; then Christ in the sepulcher at night 
and his resurrection. When the ascension was represented 
the place resounded with songs of praise, the ringing of bells, 
and firing of cannon. This was at noon, instantly the hum of 
life seemed to awaken as from the tomb. 

A FALLEM ANOEL. 

The crucifixion was made a public performance at one place 
in the city. Beginning with Christ's entry into Jerusalem 
and ending at his descent from the cross. Many of the scenes 
were so vivid as to be painful. An episode enlivened the 
scene. The angel ministering to Christ in Gethsemane was 
personated by a boy in white robes, let down from the upper 
scenery of the stage. Descending and offering him a goblet of 
wine, he was ascending on his upward flight, when the cordage 
broke and he fell to the stage. On seeing the boy rise and run 
away, the audience broke into a merry applause. Surely the 
impression was left that if an angel at all he was a fallen angel- 
The scenes on the cross were represented by men (not wax 
figures) who remained half an hour. The closing scene repre- 
sented Mary meeting Joseph. This representation is not 
permitted in England or the United States, but is represented 
on the continent. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 489 



CHAPTER II. 

Plaza de Torus — Exposition Palace and Garden — Funeral 
Scene of Atahualpa — Four Days Keign of Terror — 
Treasures — Temple of the Sun. 

)T Lima, the Plaza de Torus is the largest amphitheatre in 
the world for the exhibition of bull fights. We may 
judge of the popularity of these spectacles among the 
Peruvians, by the fact that at one time when an American 
circus was in Lima, twenty thousand people rushed to the 
plaza to witness a fight between a bull and a California grizzly 
bear, and a fight between some dogs and a buffalo. 

The exhibitions are usually on Sundays. These conflicts 
between man and beast are in the highest degree revolting to 
any one of refined sympathies. I have seen many foreigners 
who, having never seen a bull fight, and on going once, 
returned disgusted, never to go again. Bull fights have their 
patronage not only from people of the world, but even pro- 
fessors of religion attend them as they do church festivals. 
In Lima, ladies will not look upon the face of a corpse unless 
it be one killed in a bull fight. Then the terror of death is 
seemingly overlooked in the frenzy of excitement which 
follows, for they always cheer the victor, whether it be the 
man or beast. 

EXPOSITON PALACE AND GARDEN. 

One of the most interesting and popular resorts is the 
Exposition Garden. The architect of the Palace was an 
Italian, and the new world has no work surpassing it in 
artistic beauty. Surrounded by a garden of luxuriant trees 
and plants, it seems a pearl set in emeralds. 

FUNERAL SCENE OF ATAHUALPA. 

No one can pass through the hall of paintings without 
stopping to look at a masterpiece by a Peruvian artist. The 

62 



490 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

Funeral Scene of Atahualpa, the last King of the Incas, 
and to recall the dawn of Spanish power in Peru, gained 
through perfidy and cruelty. Pizarro, his men, and the 
Dominican friars in the church of San Francisco, had gathered 
around the bier of the iallen monarch. During the laot sad 
rites; loud cries were heard at the doors of the church. These 
were suddenly opened, when a number of Indian women 
rushed up the aisle, and throwing themselves upon the bier, 
declared their intention to sacrifice themselves, to bear their 
beloved Inca company to the spirit land. The soldiers 
removed them from the church, and the mighty Inca of Peru 
was interred alone. 

FOUR DAYS REIGN OF TERROR. 

The first Exposition was opened in 1872, with the assassin- 
ation of President Balta, and a revolution of such magnitude 
as to be known as " Four Days Reign of Terror." Gutierrez 
deposed President Balta, and caused himself to be made 
dictator. Balta was cast into prison, where he was assassinated 
by the brother of the dictator, who then fled to Callao to take 
charge of the troops that had been commanded by another 
brother, Silvestre Gutierrez, but on going to Lima for addi- 
tional force to seize Callao, was shot at the railway station. 
Next, the dictator was pursued through the streets of Lima by 
an infuriated mob. Be was seized and killed, and his body, 
with that of his brother, dragged through the streets to the 
plaza, where they were suspended from the towers of the 
cathedral until two o'clock next day, when the body of the 
other brother, who had been killed at Callao, arrived, and was 
dragged through the streets. A fire was kindled and the 
bodies of the three were burned. 

T R E A S U RES. 

One fifth of the proceeds from the mines, and from all 
treasures found in the country, is claimed by the government, 
to be placed in the public treasury. Any attempt to evade 
this law, if detected, is punished with confiscation and impris- 
onment. A tradition exists that great treasures were concealed 
n the burial mound of Toledo, which was substantiated by 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



491 




TEMPLE OE THE SXTlsr. 



492 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

the discovery of rich treasures some three hundred years ago? 
whose value amounted to nearly four millions of dollars. 

It becomes a question of interest how such large wealth 
could be amassed by people comparatively ignorant of the arts 
and sciences. But we can see in their government some of the 
most potent factors, and well worthy of imitation by any 
other powers, namely : Idleness and dissipation were punished 
as a crime, and while all had plenty, no one was allowed to 
amass large wealth. Those who gained in their possessions were 
required to place the surplus in the public treasury for the 
benefit of their less fortunate fellows. 

Humboldt, says that at the time of the conquest of Peru, no 
nation in Europe could boast of a work of public utility that 
would compare with the roads of the Incas. A grand cause- 
way, connecting Quito and Cusco, and continuing on to Chili 
— a distance of more than two thousand miles— can be easily 
traced by its ruins. 

TEMPLE OF THE SUN. 

As an illustration of the wealth of Peru, we may mention 
the fact that when Duke La Palata took his seat as viceroy in 
1681, he rode through the streets of Lima on a horse whose 
mane was strung with pearls, his feet clad in shoes of gold, 
over a pavement of ingots of silver twelve inches thick. Even 
this is far exceeded by what we read of the Inca dynasty, as 
shown by the splendor of the Temple of the Sun, at Cusco. In 
theend of the temple was an image of the sun on a massive 
gold plate of enormous size, thickly studded with emeralds 
and precious stones. It was so situated in front of the great 
eastern portal that the first rays of the morning sun fell 
upon it, lighting up the whole apartment with effulgence that 
seemed more than natural, and reflected back from the golden 
oraments" with which the walls were covered. Gold, in the 
figurative language of the people, was but the tears of the sun. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 493 



CHAPTER III. 

Ascent of the Andes — Taking the Elevation and Tem- 
perature — The Highest Iron Bridge in the World — 
Up Among the Clouds — The Scene at Night — Chicla— 
Valley of the Amazon — Ascent of San Cristobal. 

^"t¥; E left Lima on the morning of September twelfth, at 
wltWf e ight o'clock, and arrived at Chicla — a distance of 
F4|&?j eighty-six miles — at five o'clock. This was the 
terminus of the railway. As the road in general follows the 
Rimac river, this stream becomes a noticeable feature of the 
route. The Rimac — like the rivers of India to the Hindoos 
— -was to the Incas a sacred stream, and many legends are 
associated with its history. The term signifies "one that 
speaks," and was the Delphic oracle at Peru. In the days of 
Pizarro, the prophetic eye revealed great ships, laden with the 
mineral wealth of the Andes, that were to traverse its waters; 
but instead, at Lima, we have but a shallow stream, the 
principal supply of water having been conveyed away in the 
aqueducts to fertilize the land, before it reaches the capital. 
In the city, the river is spanned by three bridges, one of wood, 
another of stone, which has withstood the repeated shocks of 
earthquakes for more than two hundred years, and the third 
is called the Balta bridge, from its having been built under his 
administration. Leaving Lima, we passed through a broad 
fertile plain, cultivated in sugar cane, clover, cotton, and corn. 
Here are the city eemetry, the powder magazines, a sugar 
refinery, and the residence of the late Henry Meiggs. We 
stopped at Chosica for breakfast. The town, thirty-three miles 
from Callao, is twenty-eight hundred feet above the sea level. 
A variety of fruits were brought to the train by the peasants. 
This is said to be the only place on the line where small birds 
are seen — as doves and red-breasts. At San Bartolome, is the 



494 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

hospital where fever proved so fatal among the workmen who 
constructed the road. It was called Oroya fever, from the 
circumstance of its having occurred at Oroya, a town more 
than a hundred miles beyond the Andes. It .was of the inter- 
mittent type, and scarely one in a hundred recovered. 

TAKING THE ELEVATION AND TEMPERATURE. 

We carried with us a thermometer and an aneroid barom- 
eter, and made observations at different stations. At Lima, the 
thermometer stood at 68° fahrenheit ; at Chicla at 40° during 
the night; the aneroid barometer at 77° at Lima and 61° at 
Chicla. 

At San Bartolome, forty-six miles from the Pacific, is the first 
of what is called the retrograde movements. The track 
begins to wind around the mountain like the thread of an 
enormous screw. As our train went climbing up higher and 
higher, and we looked back upon the winding track and the 
scenes below, and beheld the station from which we started in 
the plain, we felt a sort of solemn awe. 

"A breakneck pathway seeking 
Along the mountain's verge, 
The condor's shriek out-shrieking 
His course can surely urge. 

Alps, Andes, Himalaya, 

Defiant seem to stand — 
Each range a giant stair 

Of steps from land to land." 

THE HIGHEST IRON BRIDGE IN THE WORLD. 

Here, a bridge of iron crosses the river at an elevation of five 
thousand eight hundred feet — the highest iron bridge in the 
world. It was constructed without a single accident. One 
mile from this is the white tunnel, the stone of which is white 
as marble and hard enough to mark glass. Much of the 
tunnel was cut by a diamond drill. On the line, when com- 
plete to Oroya — a distance of one hundred and thirty-six miles 
— -there will be sixty tunnels. The summit tunnel is four 
thousand feet long, at an elevation of fifteen thousand seven 
hundred and twenty-two feet. From this point a Avagon road 



AROUND THE WORLD. 495 

descends on the eastern slope of the Andes, fifty-eight miles to 
Oroya, whose elevation is about twelve thousand feet. 

UP AMONG- THE CLOUDS. 

We had now attained a height of more than three miles, and 
it seemed like climbing up among the clouds. Great peaks 
whose tops are perpetually covered with snow, stood about us ; 
mountain torrents, fed by their meltings, leaped from rock to 
rock; at some places through narrow chasms, whose sides rise 
perpendicularly nearly two thousand feet. At one place, the 
river passes through a gorge where the rock walls rise to a 
height of fifteen hundred feet. At another, it flows through 
a channel beneath the rock and then bursts forth with mighty 
roaring, like a Niagara. On every hand rise in majesty 

'* Palaces of Nature, whose vast walls 
Have pinnacled in clouds their snowy tops, 
And throned eternity in icy halls 
Of vast sublimity ! " 

THE SCENE AT NIGHT. 

At night we walked out and looked up into the azure 
depths where shone the stars undimmed by the radiance of 
the moon. The scene was grand and soul inspiring. We 
beheld the Rimac as it went dashing onward, breaking into 
spray over the rocks, and echoing from the valley below. 
Here and there were lithe figures moving among the houses of 
Chicla, and tripping across the narrow plank above the moun* 
tain torrent. Llamas were seen climbing the cliffs. The 
jutting peaks cast their weird shadows over the scene. 

CHICLA. 

Chicla is situated at an elevation of twelve thousand two 
hundred and twenty feet. It has one church and three hotels. 
We stopped at one kept by a German. In the evening we 
took a walk of a mile, but did not experience any trouble 
from the rarity of the atmosphere, as visitors often do. Many 
cases of difficulty of vision arise and conjestion of the lungs 
occur, w T hose only remedy is removal to lower elevations. 

While at Lima, thunder and lightning are unknown, it 



496 



TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 




AROUND THE WORLD. 497 

rains heavily in the lofty Andes, and lightning flashes and 
thunder reverberates among the peaks where the condor holds 
his solitary flight. 

VALLEY OF THE AMAZON. 

The completion of the railway will be an important achieve- 
ment to Peru. Passengers can then be carried from Callao 
across the Andes to the Amazon, at fifteen miles an hour. 
From Oroya, branch lines may run to the Cerro del Pasco 
mines — some ol the richest silver mines in the world. A 
colony of five thousand Germans was established five years 
ago on the slope of the Andes, and is in a prosperous condition. 
No better place could be found for an English colony than in 
the valley of the Amazon. The productions of this valley are 
cotton, coffee, sugar, chocolate, vanilla, wax, Peruvian bark, 
indigo, raisins, and dye woods of all kinds. It is said to be 
unrivaled for the cultivation of the silk worm. Fruits grow 
in abundance, those not native become acclimated with ease. 
Birds which produce guano ; also the Llama, alpaca, vicunya, 
and the guanaco, whose wool equals the finest of Persia. 

In mineral wealth Peru is no less remarkable. Upon the 
banks of the Amazon in those regions where nature offers 
every treasure, both mineral and vegetable, there is a large field 
for the energy and activity of the Yankee character. Soon 
the whistle of the locomotive will be heard among the hills, 
and as the waters gushed from the rock at the touch of the 
heaven guided hand of Moses, cities and towns will awaken 
in its path, in valleys now as wild as — but a few years since 
— was the great West of the United States. 

At Chicla — the terminus of the railway — we stopped over 
night and spent several hours viewing and studying the scenes 
about us. The contrast between the temperature at Lima and 
this place was quite remarkable. There we suffered with heat, 
while here we found it difficult to keep comfortably warm by 
a heated stove. 

On returning, our descent was rapid. In a few hours we 
were again in Lima. The scene contrasted strangely with the 
one just left, where even the hardy cactus ceased to grow. 

63 



498 



TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 




TEOPICAI 



O S,ES T. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 499 



ASCENT OF SAN CRISTOBAL. 

On a bright summer day we made the ascent of San Cristo- 
bal, the highest peak at Lima. The summit is reached by a 
road which becomes a narrow path, where barely a trace of 
footsteps may be seen. The rocks are bare, rugged, and so 
precipitous that a single false step would insure instant death. 
We looked down from the loftiest pinnacle upon the panorama 
below — the city of Lima, the port of Callao, the bay, 'the 
shipping, the valley of the Rimac, the mounds of the Incas, 
mountain ranges with their summits covered with snow, with 
lovely green valleys between them, and the sun shining on 
glistening fields of snow. Rainbow tints encircled the shadow 
of the pinnacles on which we stood, with a reflection of our- 
selves in the center. As we gazed, a mist arose from the Pacific, 
growing denser as it advanced, enveloping everything until 
the scene was changed into an ocean of snowy billows, shutting 
from our view all animated life. 



500 TEN YEARS 1 TRAVEL 



CHAPTER IV. 

A Dreadful Teagedy — Exciting Funeral Procession^-- 
t.hreatning scenes at the cathedral — the burial — 
Signs of the Times — The War with Chili — Great Earth- 
quake. 

JON MANUEL PARDO, the president of the senate, was 
||jj the ablest statesman of South America, a classical 
scholar, a benefactor of humanity, and an indefatigable 
worker in the line of progress. He succeeded to the presi- 
dency on the assassination of Balta, in 1872. He promoted 
public work, improved the school system, advanced science and 
education, and ably advocated the completion of the great 
Peruvian railway system. Offenders were brought to justice, 
and criminals punished. When he was elected president of 
the senate, many became embittered against him, thinking 
that the public money was squandered, and that Pardo was 
enriching himself by it. November 16th, is a memorable day 
in the history of Peru. On that day, 1532, Atahualpa, the 
last of the Incas, was imprisoned by Pizarro. One year later, 
Pizarro took possession of Cuzco. November 16, 1878, was 
selected for another tragedy which shall ever darken the 
annals of Peru. At the afternoon session of Congress, when 
Pardo passed the guards stationed at the door, one of them 
fired at him. He fell, and died in half an hour. The body 
was laid on the table of the senate, where he was just going 
to speak. Here it remained till five o'clock, when it was 
embalmed, and sent to his residence at nine in the evening. 
Sad that a republic which had celebrated its fifty -seventh anni- 
versary, should, in time of perfect peace, witness such a 
shocking tragedy. The news spread with great rapidity, 
Pardo's house was only a block from where we lived. I went 
out and was surprised to find a number of sympathizers with 



AROUND THE WORLD. 501 

the dreadful deed. The general remark, "This is nothing," 
was full of meaning. Blacker deeds were yet to have been 
committed, but the government was equal to the emergency. 
Troops were stationed in every direction, and infantry and 
cavalry paraded the streets. 

The same funeral honors were paid to him that were given 
to other presidents — eight days national mourning. Business 
places closed and all amusement suspended. The bells in 
the churches tolled for ten minutes every hour. Flags were 
draped with crape, and hung at half mast. The people 
crowded the street in front of Pardo's house, going in to see 
the family and the remains of the statesman. When I went, 
a group of women were standing outside the door. I asked if 
I could go in. The answer was, " Why not ? " I went past 
the guards and saw the corpse, supposing that I had paid 
the usual tribute of respect to the illustrious dead, but found 
that in Peru women do not look on the face of a corpse or 
attend the funeral of a relative. 

EXCITING FUNERAL PROCESSION. 

The assassination was on Saturday, and on the following 
Monday was the funeral. Long before the hour of starting, 
Vast multitudes gathered in the streets, seemingly more than 
the entire population of Peru. What would be the result of 
such a multitude of people from all ranks in this unstable 
republic, was a question of great moment. 

No carriages were allowed in the procession. The ladies all 
adopted the Spanish costume — a black suit and manta. Dis- 
guising myself as effectually as possible with a manta, I went 
in among the Peruvian women and witnessed the whole 
ceremony. The various authorities met in the reception room 
of the palace, and proceeded to the residence of the deceased, 
where they were received by a commission of the Chambers, 
the signal of their approach being the firing of a gun. The 
procession started, but soon became one confused mass. Men, 
soldiers, and ladies, whose mantas were caught by the guns, 
all moved along, struggling together, some swearing, some 
laughing, some talking, with dogs trodden under foot and 
yelping, made a strange scene for a funeral procession. 



502 TEX YEARS' TRAVEL 



THREATNING SCENES AT THE CATHEDRAL. 

But a small portion of the people could gain admittance 
into the cathedral. When crowded to its utmost, and thous- 
ands still pressing for entrance, one man in the crowd cried 
out: "Now is the time to throw kerosene and burn the 
church ! " The cry, " kill," ran among the people like electri- 
cit}^, and the panic was wild and exciting for a few moments, 
until the man was arrested and placed under the escort of 
lancers. Under the dome of the church stood the cenotaph, 
upon which the coffin was placed, having at each angle a 
cypress tree and vases of flowers, surrounded by wax candles, 
some of them six inches in' diameter and eight feet high, 
painted and figured with symbolic designs. 

THE BURIAL. 

By the obsequies of Pardo, the public mind could not fail to 
be impressed with the power of the church and state. The 
funeral took place five days after the assassination. The 
booming of cannon was the signal for companies to fall into 
line for the procession, which consisted of all the religious, 
civil, and military orders of both Callao and Lima, equipped 
in their robes and uniforms. It seemed more a military 
review than a funeral procession. Cannon were fired at the 
forts at Lima, and from the vessels and batteries at Callao, at 
intervals of fifteen minutes. The ladies, from the windows, 
threw down flowers upon the passers. At each corner of the 
plaza was a platform erected and covered with a canopy of 
curtains dotted with silver leaves, called " tears of silver." At 
each of these the procession stopped, the pall bearers changed, 
and the priests chanted, with responses from the communities. 
Before the sanctuary was erected a magnificent catafalque, 
covered by a canopy, and surmounted by a cross. The cata- 
falque was about forty feet high. In the procession was an 
order of priests clothed in velvet caps and robes, which were 
used in the days of the Inquisition, by the Jesuits. The 
requiem was performed by an orchestra of sixty musical 
professors. The body was placed in the Pantheon, and the 



AROUND THE WORLD. 503 

ceremonies ended by the brigade of artillery forming in battle 
line and tiring twenty-one salutes. 

SIGNS OF THE TIMES. 

The spirit of anarchy was kept alive in Peru, while the 
difficulties with Chili brought on the war. The people were 
deceived by enthusiastic demagogues, who addressed the 
masses daily in the city. 

On rising in the morning, one could easily judge the state of 
politics, by looking out to see the number of police stationed in 
the streets. If only one leaning idly on his gun, the indica- 
tion was that things were quiet ; if there were two, with a 
wide-awake look, that there was an impending revolution; if 
four, with fixed bayonets, that the government wa,s aroused 
and ready for action. 

THE WAR WITH CHILI. 

We were at the railway station and saw the confusion and 
panic in the crowd when the wounded soldiers were brought 
up from the first naval engagement on the coast. Other defeats 
of the Peruvians soon followed, and then the loss of the gun- 
boat, Independencia — the pride of Peru. Sad was this 
disaster. But the startling news soon came that the Chilian 
gunboats were in the bay. Great was the consternation which 
prevailed. Trains were thronged with people fleeing from 
Callao into the interior for protection. After making a recon- 
noiter, the Chilian fleet withdrew without attempting the 
attack. An order was then issued by the government, for all 
vessels detained in the harbor to withdraw several miles to 
the north, above the mouth of the Rimac. Other precautions 
were made. All explosive commodities in the ware-houses at 
Callao were removed to Lima. 

GREAT EARTHQ.UAKE. 

For a few days the weather had been dull and heavy. My 
friends complained of headache and other indispositions. 
This, however, did not prepare our minds for what was to 
follow. 

The moon, approaching the full, was seen at intervals, 



504 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

among floating masses of black clouds. I was lying in a 
hammock, when a tremendous report, like the explosion of a 
powder magazine, rent the air, and at the same time the earth 
gave two upward heaves, as if ready to open beneath us. This 
was followed by a prolonged horizontal shaking. The house 
we lived in was large and strong, with thick walls and heavy 
doors, yet it quivered like an aspen. I ran into the court. 
Everybody was fleeing for safety, some weeping and others 
praying, and all terrified as if nearing the final judgment. 

During the night other shocks followed. People did not 
return to their homes until the next day. Houses fell, in 
different parts of the city. No familiarity with these phe- 
nomena, even from childhood, can blunt the feeling of terror. 
Foreigners, terror-stricken, invariably seek shelter in flight. 

Along the whole coast of Peru, the atmosphere is almost 
uniformly in a state of repose, disturbed not by lightning's 
flash or thunder's roar. No deluge of rain, no fierce hurricane 
disturbs the fruits of the field, or the hopes of the husbandman, 
but the mildness of the elements above ground is often counter 
balanced by subterranean fury. 



AtiOUM) THE WORLD. 505 



TWELFTH TOUR-OCEAN VOYAGE 

AND CENTRAL AMERICA. 



CHAPTER I. 



Leaving South America — A School of Whales — Crossing 
the Equator the Second Time — Thirteen Volcanoes in 
One View — The Rainy Season — Becalmed — Terrors of a 
Storm in Tropical Seas — A Poem of the Sea. 

||N June 18, 1879, after spending one year in Lima, we 
embarked for Central America, on the Vesta, a fine 
sailing ship from Maine. The day was richly fraught 
with the delights of the climate — a day which I shall long 
remember. With the golden sunlight sparkling upon the 
waters of the beautiful bay, and the deep azure sky above us, 
we bid a final adieu to the mountains, the lovely valley, and 
the city — so soon to be the scene of awful carnage. Soon the 
enemy's fleet were in the harbor, and hurled destruction upon 
the fated land, and caused the sacred Rimac to glow like a vast 
stream of flame with the burning ships which anchored upon 
her waters. 

On leaving the port, our progress was slow until the fourth 
day — due to the lack of wind. It came at last, and we passed 
over one hundred and fifty-five miles of our voyage in twenty- 
four hours. Callao is situated twelve degrees south of the 
equator, over which distance we sailed in six days. 

A SCHOOL OF WHALKS. 

On the way we passed through a school of whales. A large 
one, fully fifty feet in length, came along side of our ship. It 
dived and rose several times, coming up to breathe at intervals 

64 



506 



TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



of ten minutes. They have been known to remain under 
water half an hour or more at a time. This one ejected a 
column of water several yards high, emitting at the same time 
a blowing sound. The spray thrown up by those at a distance 
appeared like a column of smoke or the sail of a ship. Now 
and then one would be seen to take a position with its head 





TEOPICAL POIjIAGS 



downward, and whip the surface of the water with its tail, 
making a sound capable of being heard three miles. 

On the ocean in the torrid zone, the heat is modified by the 
lower temperature of the water, its specific heat being great, it 



AROUND THE WORLD. 507 

absorbs the sun's rays, and transmits the heat to the higher 
latitudes through the agency of currents. 

CROSSING THE EQUATOR. 

On the day that we crossed the equator the temperature was 
seventy-eight degrees fahrenheit. I spent two years and nine 
months in the torrid and south temperate zone, and this was 
my second time of crossing the equator. 

On the fourth day of July, after a voyage of two weeks, we 
reached Corinto, the port of Nicaragua. The entrance into the 
harbor is bounded by rocky shores, against which the surf 
beats wildly, rolling up a long line of crested breakers. We 
cast anchor in the midst of the sailing ships moored in the 
harbor — a beautiful bay, girt about by a luxuriant growth of 
tropical foliage. 

THIRTEEN VOLCANOES IN ONE VIEW. 

To the east of the bay, thirteen volcanoes may be seen, 
many of them active. They assist to form the mountain 
ranges that link the two continents together, uniting in one 
vast chain the Cordilleras and the Andes, forming the most 
extensive mountain system on the globe. In the six hundred 
miles of extent north and south, Nicaragua has thirty active 
volcanoes. The roads which are covered with the lava of 
repeated eruptions, sound hollow beneath the hoofs of horses. 
The soil is very productive. The interior contains many large 
coffee estates. The climate is salubrious, and the atmosphere 
elastic and balmy. 

THE RAINY SEASON. 

Nicaragua has two seasons — the wet and the dry. The wet 
season begins about the last of May, and continues until 
November. The temperature varies from 75° to 87° Fahr. 
It never rains in the morning; the sky is a clear light blue, 
with white floating clouds, that wreathe the mountain tops. 
In the afternoon, the clouds in the west begin to grow dark ; 
the thunder roars, the lightnings flash almost incessantly, and 
about four o'clock the rain begins to fall, deluging everything 
with torrents of water. 



508 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

On the fourth of July we were on shore, and it was with 
difficulty we were rowed back to the ship. Owing to the rains 
and condition of the roads, we gave up the project of trav- 
eling through Central America, and so we embarked for San 
Francisco, on another sailing ship, anchored in the bay. 

We set sail on the eighth of July, and took our last view of 
the coast, little thinking we would not see land until the last 
of September. 

BECALMED. 

We were delayed in consequence of passing through the 
calms of Cancer — a region which may be described by 
referring to the currents known as the trade winds. The air 
at the equator is more heated than in the higher latitudes, it 
is therefore relatively lighter than the air to the north and 
south of it. The specific gravity being less, the cooler, heavier 
air, rushes in from north and south, displacing the lighter air. 
It ascends until its elasticity becomes equal tb that in the 
higher regions, thus forming at the equator an upward current 
which moves so slowly as to be nearly imperceptible. When 
the pressure is removed by their elevation, the air takes a 
general northerly direction and descends to the earth in the 
region of the tropics, thus forming a zone of calms between 
the region of the trade and the variable winds. The same is 
true of the southern hemisphere, of course in each case mod- 
ified by the motion of the earth. In the calms, heavy rains 
and thunder storms are very frequent. 

TERRORS OF A STORM IN TROPICAL SEAS. 

Our ship had tall masts, and it seemed impossible for us 
to escape being struck by lightning during the fearful storms 
that raged every night. The thunder was painfully loud, and 
the lightning streamed from the clouds in sheets of flame 
which seemed to run from one end of the heavens to the other, 
as if the whole elements were converted into fire, and the 
world on the eve of a general conflagration. The storm was 
always followed by a calm. The wind became weaker and 
weaker until it ceased. Around extended the sea — a glassy 
surface reflecting the prismatic colors. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 509 

The sails being useless were taken down. As day after day 
passed, our captain, who had followed the sea for thirty years, 
dispaired of ever reaching land. From a library of three 
hundred books, we selected our reading matter and sought to 
improve the slowly passing hours by reading from best authors. 

There were some South American birds on board, and parrots 
of brilliant plumage. One of these parrots, which spoke good 
Spanish, awakened me each morning by calling out " Kalipat " 
— her own name. She would swing on a hoop suspended from 
the ceiling, and sing and perform in imitation of an opera 
singer. 

The ocean, a great and marvelous volume of water, we studied 
with new and ever increasing delight. 

A POEM OF THE SEA. 

■' Never a poet gave to his words 
The sound of the ocean's lyre; 
Never an orator breathed the thought 
The breaking waves inspire. 

Tne eagle's scream nor the curfew's call, 
Nor the winds through the forest tree, 

Clothe the soul with the silent awe 
We feel by the praising sea. 

The sparkle of dew nor the twinkle of star 
Match the sheen of the leaping spray, 

Nor the swallow's flight so curve its grace 
As the wind-tossed foam at play. 

The mountain vast is grand and strong, 

>Tet we see where its glory ends — 
But the endless blue of the searchlesssea 

With the arching azure blends! 

Nothing in nature that man beholds 

In wealth of power and tone, 
Is like the deep, whose clouds distils 

The life of every zone. 

The little faults that cumber our days 

With their fever of hate and pride, 
Leave never a footprint on these sands, 

Where freedom and peace abide. 



510 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

Oh, glorious sign of the strength of God t 
Working and preaching His will, 

I can not hear what thy tongue declares 
Unless my heart be still. 

Alone to the soul that is calm and true 
A depth like thine is given, 

That, thro' the changing years, like thee 
Receive its hue from heaven." 



AROUND Till' WORLD-. 51 



CHAPTER II. 

Phosphorescent Lights — Followed by Dolphins and Sharks 
— Brilliant Sunsets — Mirage — The "Golden Gate." 

IFN the night, the water around the ship often gleamed with 
phosphorescent light, and luminous streams marked our 
^ pathway. On one occasion, the captain was so deceived 
by such a great and unusual light upon the water, that he 
imagined he had missed his reckonings and was drifting upon 
rocks. He called the mate, who was asleep, to assist him to 
examine his record of latitude and longitude, taken the cla} r 
before. Phosphorescence is one of the five sources of light 
recognized by modern philosophers. Its true nature is not 
well understood. The best explanation is based upon theory. 
The term means " light bearing," and applies to those bodies 
that remain luminous for a short time after the}^ are exposed 
to a strong light and then removed to a dark place. It is 
thought by some to be due to the power of the body to^retain 
for a moment the vibrations excited in it by the light. This 
power is retained but a part of a second. Some have thought 
this ohenomena due to a slow oxidation of organic matter 
when disturbed or agitated by some external force. Upon sea, 
it is doubtless caused by the luminosity of myriads of minute 
organism of sea animals, possibly by the dead ones. It is not 
the true phosphorescence as seen on land, as in decaying wood. 
Upon sea it is seen in the wake of the ship, and is often so 
luminous as to resemble great volcanic billows ©f molten lava, 
lighting up the scene around the vessel with surprising bril- 
liancy. 

FOLLOWED BY DOLPHINS AND SHARKS. 

We saw a great number and variety of fish on the voyage. 
Several times great sharks came near the ship, and a group of 



512 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

five dolphins followed us for weeks. The dolphin family 
included the grampus, the porpoise, and other large fish, 
usually called whales. The common dolphin lives in groups, 
and will swim about ships, performing gambols, leaping and 
darting in a thousand graceful motions. 

In mythology, the dolphin is sacred to Apollo, and was the 
emblem of the shields of the princes of France, who gave its 
name to one of the French provinces, from which the then 
apparent heir of the French throne was called the Dauphin. 
It is a beautiful fish, from six to eight feet long, spotted with 
brilliant colors, and remarkable for changing them in its dying 
moments. 

At times, twenty or thirty turtles could be seen resting in 
the sun upon the waters. Our captain went out in a boat and 
killed two of them with a harpoon, which furnished us soup 
as long as we relished it. 

One afternoon we passed through a group of fish called bonito 
— a Spanish word meaning " pretty." They furnish three kinds 
of meat — beef, chicken, and fish. We caught and eat many of 
them. 

We saw daily a great variety of jelly fish of different colors, 
floating slowly by the ship. There was one species called the 
" Spanish Man of War," h hich had the appearance of a large 
butterfly. The waters would seem alive with them, floating 
along on the glassy surface with the ease and grace of ships 
with their cargoes. 

BRILLIANT SUNSETS. 

Some of the most magnificent sunsets I have ever witnessed 
were on this voyage. One evening the luminous atmosphere, 
contrasting with the scattered masses of dark clouds, bore a 
striking resemblance to volumns of hot lava streaming down 
a mountain side, and changing to a display of fire works on a 
gigantic scale. 

m i r a a e . 

Another sunset scene was a most perfect representation of 
the landscape. Had I not known that we were several hundred 
miles from land, I would have believed that we were approach- 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



513 




514 TEA' YEARS' TRAVEL 

ing the coast of some grand continent. It appeared that we 
might soon be walking in the midst of the most picturesque 
scenery of undulating hills and glens, fields of golden grain, 
lawns and groves, with the delicate verdure of early spring and 
changing hues of autumn. There also seemed to be houses 
and villages, rocks and cliffs, and streams of falling water. 
This magnificent scene lasted for nearly an hour, and the 
moon-light united with it so gently that it seemed to retain its 
mellow luster and soothing influence. 

The phenomena, common in certain places on land and sea, is 
due to a dimunition of density of the air downward instead of 
upward. The Lower strata of air being more heated than the 
upper, is less dense. A ray of light coming from an object 
in the upper and denser strata, is refracted — bent from its 
course, and hence comes to the eye by a curve instead of a 
straight line. The eye refers the image to the end of astrai ht 
line, and hence the object appears to be displaced. When the 
strata are separated by a tolerably even surface, this acts as a 
mirror, and an object situated in the higher stratum is seen as 
an image reflected from the upper surface of the rarer stratum, 
and therefore inverted. 

THE GOLDEN GATE. 

Finally we reached the trade winds which carried us 
onward rapidly toward our destination; Anxiousfy I waited 
and watched for the first appearance of land. So long I had 
seen only water, and my life had been subject to the perils 
and incidents of an ocean voyage. After my long absence 
from home, my heart was filled with joy at the thought of 
seeing the shores of my native land. One morning, just as 
the sun's first rays were breaking over the waves, we caught 
sight of the Golden Gate — the entrance to the charming bay oi 
San Francisco. Appropriate to my sentiments at that moment 
are the following lines : 

'" Our hearts are fill.'d with joy to day. 
Onr vovajre now is o'er — 
Tossed on the sea, we've sighed for home, . 
We've longed to reach the " Golden Shore " 



AROUND THE WORLD. 515 

Then sing, O sing, my heart shall sing, 

Let joy my soul elate ; 
Our native land we now have reached — 

We' ve entered the "Golden Gate." 

A few hours later our ship was lying at anchor in the 
harbor. We landed and spent twelve days in the city. The 
description of San Francisco we leave for a future tour. 
General Grant and his party had returned from his tour of 
the world, and some grand receptions were tendered him there. 
We saw the honored guests at the Palace Hotel, and had the 
pleasure of shaking hands with the popular hero. 



516 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



THIRTEENTH TOUR-HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 



CHAPTER I 



Sailing for Honolulu — Nearing the Hawaiian Islands — A 
Tropical Eden — The Candle Nut Tree — A Native Bev- 
erage — Pepper Fruit — The Castor Oil Tree — Delights 
of the Climate — Native Dress and Habits — The Devil 
Fish. 

|N October 12, 1879, we sailed on an American ship for 
Honolulu. The weather, as is usual in this region of 
the Pacific, was delightful. The air was pure, and our 
ship glided over the water with full sail spread to the trade 
winds. Five days before the end of our voyage, we crossed the 
Tropic of Cancer. We witnessed the beauty of the tropical 
seas, the grandeur of the sunsets, the exceeding brilliancy of 
the stars, and the great variety of fish which came around our 
vessel. The wind died away, but we were still left rocking on 
the troubled waters; they soon rested, save the swelling that 
3eemed to be the breathing of the great sea. Even this at last 
ceased, and we were for hours becalmed. 

NEARING THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

At last, by a favorable wind, we reached the islands called 
Sandwich or Hawaiian — a group of eight in number. The} 7 
embrace an area of six thousand square miles. The largest of 
the group is Hawaii, formerly called Owhyhee. They are 
situated about the middle of the Pacific Ocean, and have no 
other islands or continents nearer them than one thousand 
miles. Thus they are a charming haven of rest for passengers 
crossing the Pacific. 

The whole group bears remarkable evidence of volcanic 
origin. They have apparently been lifted above the circling 



AROUND THE WORLD. 517 

waves by some mighty convulsion, and time has clad their 
rugged sides with a soft and delicate verdure, transforming 
them into bright blossoms of the purple seas. It was a 
lovely Sabbath afternoon when we arrived at Honolulu. A 
broad coral reef girdles the harbor. Over this the blue waters 
roll up in wild crested breakers. Passing through the channel 
among the rocks, after a voyage of twenty-one days, we were 
in a haven of rest. The landing of a steamer is an important 
event in the harbors of these islands, 

A TROPICAL EDEN. 

Honolulu is one of the islands of Owahu, and is the capital 
of the kingdom. It has a population of about twenty 
thousand. The dwelling houses are mostly white cottages, 
with green window blinds. They are shaded by the beautiful 
trees of the tropical zone, surrounded by shrubbery and vines, 
brilliant with flowers and cooled by fountains. Honolulu 
may justly be called the Tropical Eden — the Paradise of the 
Pacific. It lies half concealed in a dense foliage. Many of 
the streets are over-arched with trees. Through a leafy canopy 
the noonday sun only gleams in broken light. The delicate 
tamarind and the feathery algaroba, mingle their fragile 
foliage with the deep green glossy leaves of the South Sea 
exotics. There are broad Jeaved umbrella trees, caoutchouc, 
bamboo, mango, orange, bread fruit, candle nut, and palms, 
with their waving plumes. Many of these trees are rich in 
parasitic vegetation. 

THE CANDLE NUT TREE. 

The kukui, or candle nut tree, has a light green foliage, and 
yields a nut with a hard shell which may be lighted like a 
candle, and burns with a brilliant light. The natives polish 
and sell them for bracelets and other ornaments. 

A NATIVE BEVERAGE. 

A plant called aioa, is celebrated throughout the Polynesian 
Islands. The sale of liquor being prohibited to the natives, 
they . evade this law by preparing a beverage from the awa. 
The root is masticated until it is reduced to a pulp; the quids 



518 TEJSI YEARS' TRAVEL 

are thrown into a calabash — -a large gourd shell — water is 
added to the pulp, and the whole is kneaded until it resembles 
soap suds. It is then strained, and water is again added, 
giving it the appearance of weak coffee with milk. They use 
this as their favorite drink. It induces a profound sleep and 
dreams more enchanting than those produced by opium and 
hashish or Indian hemp. The same state can be re-produced 
once without an extra dose by bathing in cold water. The 
confirmed awa drinker resembles a leper, his body being 
covered with white scales. 

PEPPER FRUIT. 

The pepper fruit tree attains a rapid growth. It has a whorl 
of leaves at the top, and close upon the stem is set the fruit 
about the size and shape of a fig. It is of a deep orange color, 
with black seeds about the size of a grain of pepper, and whose 
flavor is not more agreeable. Before the fruit is ripe, on 
making an incision in the rind, a milky juice exudes, which is 
an excellent remedy for indigestion, and is called vegetable 
pepsin. Its application to fresh meat hastens its purification, 
and is sometimes used to render meat tender before cooking. 

CASTOR OIL TREE. 

The castor oil plant is a native of southern Asia, but is 
naturalized in Europe and other warm countries on the globe. 
In the cooler parts of Europe and America, it attains a height 
of ten feet ; but in the warmer climates it is a tree growing to 
a height of thirty feet, as in these islands. From the fruit 
castor oil is expressed. The oil is not much used for illum- 
inating or lubricating purposes. The streets of Lima are 
lighted with it, and the large sugar factories of Peru use it for 
a lubricator. The tree is much valued as an ornament in 
these islands. 

BREAD FRUIT TREE. 

Among the native trees in the islands of the Pacific, the 
bread fruit tree is esteemed by the inhabitants as one of the 
most important gifts of nature. Its fruit supplies the chief 
part of their food, and its inner bark a part of their clothing. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



519 



This tree attains a height of about fifty feet, with dark green, 
glossy leaves a foot broad and synietrically shaped. The fruit 
is generally oval and about twelve inches in circumference. 
It is covered with a rough rind, and is first green, but as it 
ripens it turns brown, and when fully mature is yellow. 
It is attached to the tree, either singly or in clusters. The pulp 
is white and mealy, and resembles new bread. The natives 




IB IK :E .&. ID PE-C7IT TSEE. 

cut the fruit into three or four slices, take out the core, then 
place heated stones in the bottom of a hole dug in the ground, 
over which they place layers of leaves and upon which they 
lay the fruit, then the leaves and heated stones in alternate 
layers, with the fruit. The whole is then covered with leaves 
and earth to the depth of several inches. In about half an 
hour the bread is ready for use. It has little taste, but is very 
nutricious. 



520 TEA YEARS' TRAVEL 

The bulbous root of the aurum esculentum — called the taro or 
kalo — is the staff of life to the natives of the Sandwich Islands. 
It is a very handsome tropical plant, with large leaves of a 
bright green color. It is planted in small hills, and water is 
kept standing around the plants during their growth. The 
root, when boiled and sliced, has the appearance of the turnip. 
The natives cook it as they do the bread fruit; it is palatable, 
and is an excellent diet for dispeptics. They also allow 
it to stand and ferment until it forms a paste, called poi, 
which is a national dish. The Hawaiians are often seen sitting 
on the floor in a group around a calabash containing poi, which 
they eat by dipping in their fingers. 

DELIGHTS OF THE CLIMATE. 

We were in Honolulu during the winter season, }'et the tem- 
perature was about 84° fahrenheit. The air was laden with the 
perfume of a thousand flowers. If atmosphere is happiness we 
were surely happy. It seemed one perpetual spring. As the 
Hawaiian ruler expressed it, " Who ever heard of winter on 
these shores? Where in these parts can we find the number- 
less draw-backs which in less favored countries the laborer has 
to contend with ? They have no place in this beautiful group 
which rests like a water lily upon the peaceful bosom of the 
Pacific. The haven is tranquil, and the sun keeps his jealous 
eye upon us every day, while his rays are so temperate that 
they never prematurely wither what they have warmed into 
life!" 

NATIVE DRESS AND HABITS. 

The natives are larger in stature and more robust than the 
inhabitants of the Asiatic archipelago. The hair is straight, 
black, and glossy. Missionary ladies designed the style of 
dress for the Hawaiian women. It is called the holoku, and is 
similar to the " Mother Hubbard " style of the States. It is a 
costume well suited to the native women, and is pretty, being 
generally trimmed with bright color. Both sexes wear hats 
alike, made from the leaves of the ti tree. Around the crown 
they wear a wreath of natural flowers. The women have many 
rights granted to the in. Formerly they had the privilege of 



AROVXO THE WORLD. 521 

choosing their own -husbands. They are very fond of riding 
horse-back, and are often fined for running over persons on 
fw)ot by their reckless speed. They wear riding dresses with 
long high-colored streamers, which fly behind them and over 
the horses. 

THE DEVIL, FISH. 

The markets are crowded with natives, especially on the 
days when the fish are brought in. They eat raw fish, seasoned 
with oil, vinegar, pepper, and salt. In no place can be seen a 
greater variety of beautiful fish than at Honolulu. The most 
singular is the octopus, or devil fish. It has eight, long, 
flexible arms, each furnished with one hundred and twenty 
pairs of suckers. The outline of the fish is triangular. Speci- 
mens are described as ten feet wide and twenty-two feet long, 
and weighing four or five tons. The skin is thin and rough, 
like the skark's. The color is slaty above, but creamy white 
beneath. The head is slightly protuberant; the mouth is 
large and cavernous, like the beak of a bird, and has at either 
side a sort of cartilaginous teeth, some of which are twelve 
inches long. The stomach of the fish has a capacity of about 
three bushels. This fish attacks fishermen and even bolits, and 
siezing them with its long slimy arms, it draws them <(own to 
its watery abode. The natives esteem its flesh very highlv as 
an artiele of diet. 



oo 



522 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



CHAPTER II. 

Visit to Queen Emma — Laying of the Corner Stone of the 
Royal Palace — Environs of Honolulu — The Pali Preci- 
pice — Great Volcanoes. 

*||i)MONG the titled personages of the island kingdom, no on e 
Mal * s more beloved than the Queen Dowager, Emma, widow 
^P* of Kamehameha IV. We were received by her, and 
spent three hours in her palace. Her manner is very pleasing 
and graceful, her voice sweet and gentle, and she is highly 
educated and accomplished. On learning that I was writing 
a book, she was much interested, and loaned me a work on the 
manners and customs of her native people. 

ROYAL PALACE. 

We were present at the la}dng of the corner stone of the 
new palace. King Kalakaua, the ruling sovereign, having the 
highest masonic degrees, the ceremonies were performed 
according to masonic order. December 31st, the anniversary 
of the birth of the Queen Consort, Kapiolani, was the time of 
the laying of the stone. The old palace buildings are frame 
houses, with green Venitian blinds, and festooned with flow- 
ering trailers. The surrounding grounds are a gem of tropical 
luxuriance. The main building is entered by a flight of steps 
which lead to a spacious hall decorated with vases and marble 
statues. The throne room occupies one wing of the palace, 
containing the Hawaiian throne, with the decorated chair and 
crown. 

Of the royal robes, the one most prized is the Throne Cloak, 
woven of the yellow feathers of the Oo and Mamo— native 
birds, now very rare. Each bird furnished but two feathers 
under each wing. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 523 

The superstructure of the new building was laid beside the 
old palace. It was planned to be a commodious and magnifi- 
cent edifice. Over that portion including the corner stone, 
was a pavillion erected for the king, his courtiers, and those 
who offiiciated in the ceremonies. The only decorations were 
graceful drapings of the Hawaiian flag, and festoons of the ti 
plant, with its broad green green leaves and large white bulbs. 
There were crowds of foreigners and multitudes of natives. 
Without an exception, the native men and women wore 
wreathes of flowers, carmine, orange, and pure white, twined 
around their hats and thrown carlessly around their necks — 
flowers redolent of the tropics in fragrance and color. Many 
of the younger women wore the gorgeous blossom of the red 
hibiscus in the braids of their abundant black hair. Many, 
besides the flowers, wore festoons of sweet scented vines, or of 
exquisitely beautiful ferns, knotted behind, and hanging half 
way down their backs. These adornments of natural flowers 
are very attractive. 

Some of the women dressed in black, but many of the 
younger ones wore robes of pure white, crimson, yellow, scarlet 
blue, or light green. The variety of costumes worn on that 
day was almost infinite. The officers glittered with crimson 
and gold lace, distinguished by bidges of their respective 
orders. At eleven o'clock, the royal band broke forth in 
exultant strains, leading on the various orders in a long 
procession — a rainbow tinted crowd. In the company were 
royal guards, the free masons in brilliant regalia, the firemen 
in broad helmets and scarlet coats, the marines from the men 
of war in the port, and a company of Chinese in blue coats 
and bearing an exquisit3ly wrought silk banner, covered with 
various figures and devices. 

At the appointed time for the opening of the ceremonies, a 
rustle in the crowd and the presentation of arms, announced 
the approach 6 the king and queen. King Kalakaua is a 
fine looking gentlemen. His appearance is commanding 
and aristocratic. Queen Kapiolani, with but a few touches 
of art, might be taken for a handsome brunette or an 
Italian beauty. Other members of the royal family were 



524 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

there. We had seats near the king and queen during the 
ceremonies. 

THE ENVIRONS OF HONOLULU. 

Rising just behind the town, is the extinct crater of Mount 
Punchbowl. It is so red with volcanic ash that it looks as 
though the fires had just died out. We made the ascent of 
of the mountain, and walked through the crater, which is 
about one half mile wide. It is a great basin, resembling a 
valley, overgrown with grass and flowers. 

THE PALI PRECIPICE. 

One of the most interesting excursions is to the Pali, a 
precipice six miles from Honolulu. On the way are the tombs 
of the kings of Hawaii, one of the palaces of Queen Emma, 
and many handsome dwellings, shadowed by the superb trees 
of the tropics, and surrounded by banks of flowers. The 
mountains are clothed in varying shades of green, the trees 
bright with flowers, and the wayside fringed with the feathery 
foliage of ferns. 

The Pali — that wonderful precipice — affords in one view, a 
picture of wildest natural scenery, that of its kind, is unriv- 
led in the known world. Rising out of the sea of verdure to 
the height of four thousand feet, is a wall like a ridge of gray 
colored rock, broken into fantastic pinnacles. The road 
becoming so precipitous as to make passage difficult, we left 
our carriage and walked up one thousand feet to the brink of 
the precipice. Going through a rock passage, the celebrated 
view burst upon our sight with overwhelming effect. The 
mountain is cleft in two, one half is standing, the other half 
is gone; having been torn away and buried beneath the waters 
by some mighty volcanic eruption. The remaining portion is 
a perpendicular rock, arid from this wonclrous height we 
looked down upon the beauteous scene. Vegetation — so lux- 
uriant in this climate — clothed the mountain below, cascades 
poured their crystal waters down the rocky heights, while on 
the plain below, the fields — green with sugar cane— stretched 
away to the coral beach. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



525 




526 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



GREAT VOLCANOES. 

On the island of Maui is the great extinct volcano, Haleakala 
— "House of the Sun." Its summit rises to a height of ten 
thousand feet, and is the largest extinct crater in the world. 
Its circumference is twenty -five miles, and its depth two 
thousand feet. It contains about sixteen basins of old volca- 
noes. So long have the internal fires slumbered that there is 
not a tradition of its activity extant. 

The volcano of Kilauea, on the island of Hawaii, is the 
largest and greatest active volcano in the world. The crater 
is nine miles in circumference, and one thousand feet deep. 
Within the crater is a burning lake called Halemaumau — the 
•' House of Everlasting Fire." 

The entire island is one vast pile of lava — the overflow of 
many craters. Some of the most terrible eruptions are those 
of Kilauea. In 1868, it is said that the shocks of Kilauea 
were as frequent as the ticking of a watch. The whole 
number of shocks counted in the island in two weeks was 
two thousand. It is said that the tremor felt, was like that of 
a ship struck by a heavy wave. The crust of the earth rose 
and sunk like the sea in a storm. Rocks were rent and the 
earth opened in a thousand places. There flowed from the 
mountain a river of fire eight hundred feet wide and twenty 
feet deep. The lava cooled on the outside, forming a tube 
through which lava continued to flow for about two months, 
causing the sea to boil for a considerable distance from land, 
cooking fish and other inhabitants of the sea, which were 
washed ashore — some species hitherto unknown to naturalists. 

The western coast of the Island of Hawaii — indented by the 
bay of Kealakehua — is the place where Captain Cook, the great 
explorer, was killed by the natives in 1779, while endeavoring 
to recover a boat stolen from one of his ships. The place is 
marked by a cocoa-nut stump, faced with copper, and bearing 
an inscription giving the name and date of the event. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 527 



CHAPTER III. 

Christian Missions — Remarkable Building of a Church- 
Spread of Christianity — Voyage to San Francisco — A 
Man Lost Overboard. 

igfjfEW foreign missionary fields have been so fruitful of good 
|| results as these islands, under the American Board of 



"^5^ Foreign Missions. The origin of the work is peculiar. 
In 1809, two little boys were shipped on board an American 
vessel bound for New York. When they arrived at New York 
they were taken to New Haven, Connecticut. One of them 
was converted to Christianity. They were then taken to 
Andover, where they were seen by some young men who were 
about to graduate and go forth as missionaries. Two of them 
— Mr. Bingham and Mr. Thurston — decided to go to these 
islands, the home of the boys. Leaving Boston, they reached 
the Sandwich Islands in 1819. They found the people sunk 
in barbarism and idolatry. For five hundred years before the 
discovery of the islands by Captain Cook, and even after, each 
island had its own king who practiced idolatry ; yet the people 
received the missionaries with shouts of joy, and immediately 
began to destroy their idols and demolish their temples. At 
Kona, in the island of Hawaii, was the last idol that was 
destroyed. It was their celebrated war god — a wooden idol, 
crowned with a helmet and covered with feathers. To this 
idol human sacrifices were made, as many as twenty at a time. 
The change made by Christian influence was magical. In 
1835, Bishop Coan, in his mission work, traveled on foot and in 
canoes a distance of three hundred miles. He was let down the 
mountain side by ropes from crag to crag, from tree to tree, 



528 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

and was borne across torrents on the shoulders of men. 
Before the end of the year he had admitted into the church 
about twelve thousand persons. At any hour of the day, from 
five to six thousand persons could be assembled for worship. 
They could be seen coming from all parts to the chapel, 

"Like mountain torrents pmring lo the main, 
From every glen a living stream came forth. 
From every hill, in crowds they hasten down 
To worship him who diegns in humblest lane — 
On wildest shore, to meet the upright in heart." 

REMARKABLE ZEAL IN BUILDING A CHURCH. 

The converts assisted the missionaries in the building of 
churches — one a beautiful stone structure in Honolulu, costing 
twenty thousand dollars. About one thousand converts to 
Christianity divided themselves into five companies, and 
labored with zeal and energy for six } 7 ears. The stone they 
carried on their shoulders, and the coral from which lime was 
made, they obtained by diving in ten feet of water. By this 
process they procured more than seven thousand cubic feet of 
coral. To burn this mass, they brought from the mountains 
more than forty cords of wood. The lime being burned, the 
women took it in calabashes upon their shoulders and carried 
it to the workmen ; also the sand and water. A quantity of 
these materials^equal to fifty wagon loads — were carried upon 
the backs of the women a quarter of a mile. The sills, rafters, 
and posts had to be cut in the mountains ten miles away, and 
hauled by ropes. When the building was finished, flowers and 
trees were planted around it and carefully watered. The }^ard 
was then fenced. There were no pews in the church, but 
the floor was coveied with matting. The people assembled for 
worship, and seated themselves so thickly upon the matting 
that they seemed literally one mass of heads, covering an area 
of more than nine thousand square feet. Their voices were 
soon trained to sacred music, and the3 ? are now the best native 
singers in mission lands. Pews are now in use in this church. 

My husband and E attended frequently . We gave lectures 



AROUND TEE WORLD. 529 

there in the presence of titled ladies and gentlemen, and 
large audiences of people. 

In 1853, the islands were nominally Christianized, and a 
ministry of forty-six native pastors was established, through 
whom the old missions are now sustained, and many new ones 
opened in the islands of the South Pacific. When the church 
bells rang on Sabbath morning, it was interesting to see the 
shady streets filled with native people in their holiday attire, 
going to church. 

COMPARATIVE EXTENT OF CH RISTI A N FT Y . 

Although this people embraced Christianity so readily, still 
many millions of the one and a half billions who inhabit the 
earth, are in darkness and have never heard of Christ. It is 
estimated that eight hundred and fifty-six millions are 
heathen; of these, about four hundred million are Buddhists. 
There are as many Buddhists in the world as there are 
Christians. No form of Paganism has so many followers. 
Brahmanism is the creed of one hundred and eighty millions 
— the teeming masses of India. There are nearly four 
hundred millions of Christians, of whom one hundred and 
sixteen millions are protestants. Fifteen centuries after the 
birth of Christ, there were but one hundred millions of 
Christians; three centuries later the number was doubled. 
Since A. D. 1800, that number has also been doubled. In a 
sermon preached by Joseph Cook, after making a tour of the 
world, he said: "There are now two hundred million women 
in the world, who have only the Buddhists' hope of being 
born again, as men, instead of toads and snakes. Eighty 
million women are confined in the Moslem harems. There 
are unconverted millions of men, women and children, grow- 
ing up in the most debasing ignorance and superstition. 
Nearly nine million dollars are annually expended by 
Christians of all the world on the foreign missions. All that 
Christiandom raises for foreign missions in a year, would 
not pay the liquor bill in Christian countries for one evening! " 

67 



530 



TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 







HERE is a lamp whose steady light 
Guides the poor traveler in the night: 
'Tis God's own Word! Its beaming ray 
Can turn a midnight into day. 

HEEE is a store-house of rich fare 
Supplied with plenty and to spare: 
"lis God's own Word ! It spreads a feasfc 
For every hungry, thirsty guest. 

HERE is a chart whose tracings show 
The onward course where tempests blow : 
'Tis God's own Word! There, there iafoundl 
Direction for the homeward bound. 

HERE is a tree whose leaves impart 
Health to the burdened, contrite heart : 
'Tie God's own Word ! It cures of sin, 
And makes the guilty conscience clean. 

IVE me this lamp to light my road ; 
This store-house for my daily food; 
Give me this chart for life's rough sea; 
These healing leaves, this heavenly tree. 



VOYAGE TO SAN FRANCISCO. 

Having spent the winter in these lovely islands, we took 
passage on a sailing ship for San Francisco. It was the same 
vessel that brought us to Honolulu, crowded with happy pas- 
sengers ; now there were but four besides ourselves. For 
many miles we sailed along the coast, viewing the grandeur 
and the picturesque loveliness of that delightful land— beauties 
which when faded from eight, left their image stamped upon 
the memory. A rainbow of great breadth and brilliancy rested 
over the mountains and green valley mapped out before us, 
arching above on the blue sky like a great dome. As I beheld 
the scene I could but exclaim: " Where has earth a scene more 
fair? Must I now say aloha — the native farewell — summer 
isles of Eden, laying in dark purple spheres of seas?" 

The voyage was unusually stormy. We were one month 



AROUND THE WORLD. 531 

tossed by the angry waves and driven by the fierce roaring 
winds. 

A MAN LOST OVERBOARD. 

Before reaching San Francisco, a storm raged for three days. 
The ship's crew, though weary and worn with the hardships 
of the voyage, were faithful to their duty. "Reef the sails 
on the main mast," was the order given. A young Australian 
had reached the upper yard, as he had often before scaled the 
dizz}^ heights, and clinging to the yard, he had reached the 
end. More than a hundred feet he hung above the black and 
surging billows, swayed to and fro by the bounding of the 
ship and the reeling of the mast. With fingers numbed with 
cold he plied his busy task; but alas! the fatal moment came. 
Losing his hold, with dreadful plunge he was hurled below. 
Striking against the bulwarks, he dropped into the water. 
The ship was stopped, and every effort made to rescue his 
body ; but he sank at once — one moment ago full of life and 
hope," and now in eternity ! The dangers that we had passed 
through made us thrice happy to reach port. 



532 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



FOURTEENTH TOUR-CALIFORNIA. 



CHAPTER I . 



►ay of San Francisco — The Metropolis of the West — - 
Golden Gate Park — Wonderful Lily — A Salubrious- 
Climate— Chinese Emigration. 

Hf HE Bay of San Francisco, beautiful ! exquisite ! a charm 
of natures own choosing, embellished by every thing 
^jp5 tending to make a harbor of the highest utility, and a 
gem of superb excellence — the bay of all bays the world over. 
Surrounded by a landscape on all sides, dotted with cities and 
towns, and villas and mansions of the rich, telling at once the 
opulence of their owners, by gardens profuse with flowers and 
orchards luscious with golden fruit, its surface decorated with 
many verdant islands — -the largest above eight hundred acres, 
connecting it with the tranquil waters of the Pacific through 
the far famed Golden Gate— lovely Bay of San Francisco I 
This magnificent channel is two miles wide and five miles 
long, with precepitous shores rising two thousand feet high, on 
the north and on the south, shining sand hills about four 
hundred feet above its placid waters. Scenes of life and 
activity meet .us on every hand. 

The cit^y of San Francisco is built on a peninsula twenty 
miles long, lying between the bay and the ocean. Thus 
located, it contains the terminus of but one railway. In 
Oakland, across the bay, is the depot of the Central Pacific, and 
four othei railways. Enterprise has been pushed to the 
utmost limit. A pier has been built about two miles into the 
bay. Here the trains which start from New York city, three 
thousand, four hundred and fifty miles away, reach their final 



AROUND THE WORLD, 533 

destination, and the passengers are taken by ferry boat to the 
city over the remaining three miles. The steamer " Thorough 
Fare,' 1 was built for the purpose of taking the trains across 
the bay. On one trip she carried thirty-six loaded freight cars, 
running this distance in twenty minutes. 

San Francisco monopolizes the commerce on the Pacific 
coast. Forty-three ocean steamers run from this port to 
China, Japan, Australia, and Panama, besides thirty inland 
steamers which run to points on the bay and its tributaries. 
The number of sea-going vessels that arrive in San Francisco 
annually is nearly five thousand. 

THc: METROPOLIS OF THE WEST. 

San Francisco is laid out with broad streets, crossing each 
other at right angles. It has tram cars and many Lines run by 
cables. Market street, running to the ferry, has many elegant 
buildings, and is a broad, beautiful avenue. The Palace Hotel 
is said to be the largest, as it is one of the most magnificent 
buildings of its kind in the world. It is nine stories high. 
There are eighty-five churches in the city. California million- 
aires and large property owners have embellished the city by 
erecting for themselves palatial residences, and elegant public 
buildings. The City Hall, upon which wealth has been 
lavishly expended, is a superb edifice. At the mint I saw five 
million dollars in silver piled up in sacks, and gold in large 
quantities. The markets of this city form one of the principal 
features, '.'-hose who have never seen the fruits and vegetables 
of California should visit the markets. No other country pro- 
duces fruit in such abundance and perfection. The restaurants 
furnish better and cheaper meals than those of any city of 
its grade that I have visited. 

GOLDEN GATE PARK. 

Although, for a city of its size, San Francisco has few parks 
and public squares, yet a pleasant trip on the grand cable cars, 
brings us to Golden Gate Park. On the way we pass the 
cemeteries, where stand many elegant and costly monuments. 
The park contains one thousand and forty-three acres, and 



534 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

embraces a very fine collection of trees and flowers suited to 
the climate of California, besides many rare exotics. The 
conservatories of glass and iron are designed after the Crystal 
Palace at London. In the various halls are palms, tree ferns, 
the cactus and tropical plants from every land. 

WONDERFUL LILY. 

The admiration of the place is the wonderful water lily at 
the time of flowering. There is but one species known, to 
which has been given the name Victoria Regia. It was first 
described by a naturalist who saw it on the Amazon. It has 
since been found in the other rivers of South America. A 
tank was prepared for the plant in the conservatory. A layer 
of earth was placed in the bottom, in which the seed was 
sown, and water turned upon it. When a leaf began to form 
the stem lengthened until it reached the surface of the water, 
where it floated and expanded until it attained a diameter of 
five or six feet. The margin of the leaf turns up about two 
inches, showing the under surface of a purplish color, and 
covered with a coarse net-work of veins, furnished with 
prickles. When the plant blooms the place is thronged with 
people. The avenues leading to the conservatory are lighted 
by Chinese lanterns, and the building itself brilliantly illum- 
inated. "When I saw this marvel of the tropical world twelve 
of its leaves floated upon the water of the pond, their center 
of a sea green color, and the exterior of a beautiful carmine. 
They appeared strong enough to bear a heavy weight, but they 
quivered when a drop of moisture fell upon the water, and 
caused its smooth surface to be broken into ripples. Several 
buds were seen among the leaves. They open at night and 
close as soon as day appears. The opening of this beautiful 
flower is like a transformation scene in a pantomine. The 
white petals assume a delicate tint and droop gracefully, 
forming a crown, from which fact the wonderful flower takes 
its name. It is nearly a foot in diameter and very fragrant. 

CLIMATE. 

The rapid growth of California, both in population and 
wealth, has been due, scarcely less to her mineral resources 



AROUND THE WORLD. 535 

than to her climate. There are two seasons, the wet and the 
dry. The former lasts from the first of November to the first 
of May. The rain falls principally in the night, while the 
days are usually clear and pleasant. At Christmas, the whole 
country is covered with green grass, in January with a carpet 
of flowers, and in April and May with fields of ripening grain. 
During the last fifteen years of observation, the average was two 
hundred and twenty clear, eighty-five cloudy, and sixty rainy 
days each year. 

During the warm dry season the nights are always cool, 
owing to the breezes from the ocean. The greatest hindance 
to the delights of summer in San Francisco are the prevalence, 
of strong winds, which carry the dust from the sand hills on 
the coast over the. city, to the great annoyance of the people. 

CHINESE. 

The discovery of gold caused a period of unparalleled pros- 
perity in California, and multitudes of foreigners were attracted 
to her shores from all parts of the world. Among these, vast- 
numbers of Chinese came. After the Burlingame treaty in 
1868, hundreds of Coolies were shipped to San Francisco, in 
the interest of large mining corporations. These emigrants, 
accustomed to living in the densely populated districts of 
China, labored very cheaply, to the great disgust of the labor- 
ing classes, who were not willing to subsist upon the meager 
income usually earned by a Chinaman. Riots followed, and 
violence was resorted to, and it was thought that grave trouble 
was at hand. The Congress of the United States passed a bill 
suspending the migration of Chinese, but President Hayes 
vetoed it, giving in his message as a reason for his action, that 
it showed bad faith with the Chinese Empire, and recommend- 
ing that the treaty be abrogated through proper diplomatic 
intercourse. This was resorted to, and President Angell, of 
Michigan University, was sent as a special envoy to China to 
negotiate a treaty which should limit the migration for ten 
years. This treaty was ratified by both countries, and the 
trouble was averted. 

The Chinese are very unpopular on the Pacific coast. They 
speak a different language, have a different civilization and 



536 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

religion, and will not affiliate with our institutions, rarely 
becoming citizens of the United States, or acquiring homes on 
our soil. They work faithfully and patiently for a few years, 
living on the smallest possible expenditure of their earning, 
then return to their own country. They do not get drunk on 
whiskey, as do many of other nationalities. They have opium 
joints, where opium smoking is indulged in, to which it is not 
easy to gain access. 

Some cases of leprosy occur, more than are generally under- 
stood to exist. The Chinese quarter occupies one of the best 
business parts of San Francisco, and is not a desirable place 
. for a residence. The number in California is estimated to 
be one hundred thousand. 



AROUXD THE WORLD. 537 




CHAPTER II. 

The Sacramento River — The Largest Steamboat in the 
World — The City of Sacramento — The Capitol — First 
Discovery of Gold — Cities and Agricultural Items — An 
Excursion to Los Angeles — The Big Trees — Yosemite 
Valley — Great Water Falls — Snow Shoes — -Adventure 
with a Bear — A Fearful Ride Among the Canyons. 

E went three times to Sacramento by steamer, on the 
Sacramento river — -a distance of one hundred miles. 
This is the principal river of California, and with its 
tributaries drains the great valley between the Sierra Nevadas 
and the coast range. The banks are low, and when the heavy 
rains fall, or the snow melts on the mountains, the land is 
overflowed, causing great damage to the crops and buildings. 

THE LARGEST STEAMBOAT IN THE WORLD. 

On one of our trips we passed the '' Solana," the largest 
steamboat in the world. This mammoth vessel was built at 
Wilmington, Delaware, and is registered to carry three thou- 
sand five hundred and forty tons. The engines are driven by 
eight steel boilers, each twenty-eight feet long. This boat runs 
between the towns of Bernicia and Port Costa, across the strait 
of Carquinez and carries the trains. Its capacity is forty-eight 
freight cars with locomotive. The deck is four hundred and 
twenty-four feet in length. 

THE CITY OF SACRAMENTO. 

At the junction of the Sacramento and American rivers, is 
located Sacramento City, the capital of California. At the 
time the city was laid out, both rivers had high banks — above 
the reach of any flood — but when the thousand miners began 
to tear down the mines in search of gold, the debris washed 
down into the streams, and gradually filled up the banks from 



538 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

twelve to eighteen feet above the former level. A levee was 
constructed at a great cost, and the business portion of the city 
raised several feet above its original level. The history of 
this city illustrates the indomitable energy of the citzens. 
Floods have swept over it with the besom of destruction; fires 
have burned it to the ground ; but phcenix-like, it has always 
risen more beautiful than ever. 

THE CAPITOL. 

One of the finest public buildings in the country is the State 
House, which was built at a cost of two and a half million 
dollars. It is modeled on the plan of the capitol at Wash- 
ington, D. C. It stands in the midst of a beautiful park of 
of about fifty acres. Many of the precious marbles found in 
California are employed in its construction. Laural wood 
from the mountains, and which is susceptible of a very high 
polish, is used for the doors and panelings. On different 
occasions w r e ascended the great dome. ' At one time, when the 
city was threatened by an inundation, it was momentarily 
expected that the levee would break, and the water — then 
higher than the houses — -would rush through the streets. A 
sufficient force was put on the levee, so that it was strengthened 
and the waters were stayed within their bounds. 

FIRST DISCOVERY OF GOLD. 

From the dome of the State House we had a good view of 
Placerville, in El Dorado county, east of the Sacramento and 
at the foot of the Sierra Nevadas. It was near this place that 
the first gold was discovered in California. The precious metal 
was washed out of a mill race of General Sutter, by one of 
his employes, in January, 1848 (and to the shame of that 
noble state, be it spoken, she has allowed this discoverer — her 
: reatest benefactor — to live in extreme poverty in his old 
age). 

The general died on the day that we viewed the place from 
the dome of the State House, June 17, 1880. Thirty-two years 
before, the news had spread with the wings of the wind to 
every civilized country on the globe, and caused thousands to 



AROUND THE WORLD. 539 

leave their homes and all they had, and make their way to this 
El Dorado. 

CITIES AND AGRICULTURAL, ITEMS. 

From Sacramento we went to Stockton. These two places 
are the chief cities of California. They lie in the great granary 
of the land, one of the finest agricultural countries in the 
world. Geologists claim that all that region between the 
mountain ranges was once a large lake. It is now called the 
Sacramento and San Joaquin Valley, and includes about five 
thousand square miles, reaching four hundred miles from 
north to south, and having a width of fifty miles. 

June twent3^-fourth was the time of our visit, and the fields 
were then rich with grain ready for the harvest, extending in 
one undivided tract for many miles, interspersed here and 
there with the evergreen oak, its spreading branches and deep 
green foliage affording a graceful shade to the weary laborers. 

Steam reapers are in common use. A California invention — 
the Centennial Harvester — is propelled by twenty-four horses, 
and combines the work of several machines. By it the grain 
is reaped, thrashed, winnowed, sacked, tied up, and set down 
ready for the market. If I had not seen one of these machines 
and had it explained to me, I might have doubted that such 
an invention existed among agricultural inventions. 

Stockton is the great grain market for the vast extent of 
cultivated prairie land embracing it for many miles in every 
direction. It is also a starting point for many stage lines to 
the Big Trees and the Yosemite Valley. We remained about 
two weeks in Stockton, during which time I was engaged in 
delivering lectures in the churches. 

San Jose is another city in the same great valley, and is one 
of the prettiest places in the state. Its delightful climate, its 
orchards, vineyards, and shade trees, render it a favorable 
place of resort. This is an old city, being founded by Spanish 
missionaries. The Alameda, or grove, was planted in 1799, 
and is by far the most delightful grove of planted timber ia 
the state. 

EXCURSION TO LOi ANGELES. 

One of the most pleasing excursions that we made from San 



540 TEN YEARS 1 TRAVEL 

Francisco, was to Los Angeles. We went by steamer. The 
distance is four hundred and eighty miles. The vessel stopped 
at Santa Barbara, and while the cargo was changed, we took a 
view of the town, which is esteemed one among the best in 
the state, having a fine climate and' the most delicious fruits. 

Approaching Los Angeles, from the steamer it is almost 
hidden by orchards of orange trees and other fruits. At the 
time of our visit these orchards were laden with ripe fruit. 
The city lies in a broad valley — veritable Garden of Eden. It 
is said that the Spanish missionaries gave to the place its 
significant name from the fact that while they viewed it from 
the surrounding height they were enchanted by the scene and 
exclaimed : " This is an abode more fit for angels than for 
men." 

We remained one month at Los Angeles, and often went 
out among the gardens and orchards, where luscious fruit 
could be picked from the trees and vines. In the city we 
could buy a bushel of oranges for half a dollar. 

We spent the Fourth of July here. Great preparations were 
made to celebrate the day of our Independence, but the news 
of the assassination of President Garfield, changed these 
manifestations of patriotism to the evidences of sorrow and 
national mourning. 

THE BIG TREES. 

Among the many wonders of California are the world 
renowned Big Trees. There are several groups of them, to 
which we made an excursion, first visiting the Mariposa 
grove. The sunlight fell in golden patches and shim- 
mered through the foliage around the trunks of these 
giants of the forest. The atmosphere seemed to give a revival 
of life and animation. This grove is at an elevation of six 
thousand three hundred feet. It contains four hundred and 
twenty-seven trees, many of them from three to four hundred 
feet high, and with a diameter of from twenty to thirty-five 
feet. Some of them are supposed to have attained the age of 
two thousand years, yet they show no signs of decay. They 
are called the. Sequoia Gigantea, and exist nowhere out- 
side of California. They are valuable for lumber, some- 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



541 



times yielding as much as a quarter of a million feet 
from a single tree. Another species known as the Sequoia 
Sempervirens is nearly as large, some of which are two hundred 
and eighty feet high, and fifteen feet in diameter. The groves 
of this tree are found in the Cascades, and are about four 
hundred miles long, with an average width of thirty miles. It 
is computed to contain enough wood to supply timber for the 
consumption of the world for a century. The bark of the 
Big Tree is three feet thick, some specimens of which we 
obtained. No one is permitted to cut any of the living trees, 
but the guardian of the forest directed my husband to some 
that had fallen, saying, " You can have as much as you will 
cut." The fiber of the bark is spongy, and it is almost impos- 




sta.3-3 2D=2.xt^Z2n"3- t:es:zso™3-:s 



T^SES., 



sible to cut it with an ax. By using a saw. a great quantity 
ol it was obtained, also some of the wood and cones, specimens 
of which we still possess. The foliage of this tree resembles 
the cedar. With our carriage and horses we drove through one 
of these trees called the Wawona. The central part has been 



542 TEX YEARS' TRAVEL 

cut away for a road, while enough of the trunk has been 
retained on each side to support the tree whose giant trunk 
towers above three hundred feet. Many other species of 
large trees are found in this region still smaller than those de- 
scribed but much larger than the ordinary tree of that latitude, 
They also are valuable for lumber. 

YOSEMITE VALLEY. 

Another day among such trees and over rugged mountains, 
brought us to the grandest scenery on the American continent, 
if not in the world — the far famed Yosemite Valley. First 
we came to the Pohono, or Bridal Veil — a waterfall which 
descends in one unbroken sheet, with clouds of spray, a dis- 
tance of nearly one thousand feet. We first viewed the 
Pohono from " Inspiration Point" above, and then following 
the winding road, we descended into the valley, where we stood 
and listened to the thundering sound of the rushing waters; 
then continued to view the other scenes of wonder in the 
mighty Yosemite. This valley was discovered in 1855. It is 
about ten miles long and little more than one mile in width. 
The Merced, about fort}' yards in width — a tributary of King's 
river — flows through the valley. The latter river flows into 
the Sacremento, and thence through the Golden Gate into 
1he Pacific. 

In many places the walls of this valley are nearly vertical. 
The mountains surounding it have an average elevation of 
over four thousand feet; the highest is Clouds' Rest, which is 
six thousand four hundred and fifty feet, and South Dome 
six thousand feet — majestic mountains, cloud — capped, from 
which spring, in unequaled sublimity, water falls — the highest 
of earth — mirrored lakes and fearful chasms which appall the 
beholder and impress his mind with ineffable admiration. 

OREAT WATER FALL. 

The Yosemite Falls is situated on the north side of the 
valley. The first fall is about one thousand six hundred feet, 
the second four hundred and thirty-four feet, the third six 
hundred feet. The total height is two thousand, six hundred 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



54c 




>' 



: M 







544 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

and thirty-four feet. After the heavy rains in May and June, the 
view is very grand. The immense volume of water falling so 
great a distance, makes the earth tremble, and the roaring and 
surging is even terrific. Fierce gusts of wind often sway the 
stream from side to side. 

The Merced Fall and the Ne /ada Fall combined, form a 
descent about sixteen hundred feet — the highest leap of water 
in the world. To reach the Nevada Falls, we walked up the 
river and ascended the cliffs by means of ladders, while our 
ears were deafened by the roar of the cataract, and we were 
sprinkled by the spray from the waters. 

Among the wonders of the Valley of Yosemite is Mirror 
Lake, upon whose glassy surface is pictured the massive 
mountains, the cascades and the surrounding foliage. These 
being inverted by the action of the light, appear to extend 
downward thousands of feet into the water. 

Having completed all the excursions that are to be made in 
the Yosemite to see the marvelous majesty of the place, we 
left the valley at the side opposite to the one we entered, and 
thus obtained a view of the scenery from one of the best 
positions. We soon reached an altitude far above that of 
Yosemite's highest peaks, and crossed Pilot's Ridge, where 
snow falls in winter to the depth of twelve feet. 

SNOW SHOES. 

At one of the villages, the inhabitants showed us their snow 
shoes, which were eight or ten feet long. With these they can 
travel with rapidity over the snow. These shoes are construc- 
ted of wicker-work adjusted to a light wooden frame about a 
foot wide, and several feet in length. The object is to secure 
a larger surface over which the weight of the body may be 
distributed in order to prevent sinking. 

Another kind of shoe is made from a plank one inch or more 
in thickness, tapered and turned up slightly at the ends. 
This is sometimes ten or twelve feet in length, and fastened to 
the foot by means of straps. In traveling, the snow shoe is not 
lifted from the surface, but pushed forward somewhat after the 
manner of skates upon the ice. 

Wild animals, which inhabit these regions, often attack the 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



545 



people, but with the snow shoe they are enabled to escape from 
the fleetest pursuer at times when the snow is deep. Pressed 
with hunger, they often come about the dwellings, and some- 
times destroy and carry off human victims. 




Our illustration shows the perilous situation of a man who 
in crossing the mountains was attacked by a California grizzly 
bear, rendered desperate by hunger. The traveler hastened on 
with all possible speed knowing that to fire at the bear 
involved more danger than flight. Finding himself cksely 
pursued and his strength waning, he turned and fired upon 

09 



546 TEX YEARS 1 TRAVEL 

his hungry adversary, wounding him and adding to his fury. 
Nothing was now left but the hazard of a hand to hand 
encounter, which, from the proximity of the bear, seemed 
iminent. He fled for a neighboring tree, hotly pursued by the 
beast, whose prospect for an evening meal enhanced at every 
step. The man climbed a leaning tree, and sought refuge on a 
projecting limb, turning around only to see his pursuer with 
glaring eyes and open mouth almost in reach. It was a forlorn 
hope. He siezed his dagger, and with one fortunate stroke 
dispatched the infuriated grizzly. As his huge carcass rolled 
into a chasm below, the traveler descended to thank heaven 
for a remarkable preservation. 

The day that we left the Yosemite we passed through the 
Tuolomne grove of big trees, and spent several hours in walk- 
ing about among these grand old^monarchs of the forest. 

A FEARFUL RIDE AMONG THE CANYONS. 

We had reached an elevation of seven thousand feet, and 
commenced the descent, when we found the road had not been 
completed — that one track only lay along the mountain side, 
without room for carriages to pass each other. To retrace our 
steps was impossible, to proceed was hazardous. Any turn of 
the winding road might bring to view an approaching carriage. 
The harness might break, or the horses become unmanageable. 
Above us towered the rugged peaks, and below lay a fearful 
abyss — an immense canyon, several thousand feet deep. For 
a number of hours we were in this perilous position, but 
fortunately met with no accident. 

We returned to San Francisco after an absence of about six 
weeks, having made a journey of about four hundred miles. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 547 



CHAPTER III. 

Founding the Woman's Medical College — Incorporation 
Papers — Opening Address. 

| If HE new resident in San Francisco soon becomes known, 
and if worthy never lacks for kind and genial friends. 
It is said that letters of introduction are not known in 
America, but even in this cosmopolitan city good references 
are essential in both social and business lelations. 

Through the general and philanthropic spirit of the citizens 
of San Francisco, public benefits are often given for charitable 
purposes, institutions and societies. When I became known 
as a traveler in foreign lands, I was usualty invited to be 
present when a benifit was given, and requested to occupy a 
portion of the time in a lecture upon this subject. This 
experience served to introduce me through the press and 
otherwise, so that I gave one hundred lectures on various 
subjects in this and other cities of California. For three 
successive Sabbath evenings I filled the pulpit of the Mayor 
of San Francisco, who is one of the most eloquent pastors 
on the Pacific Coast. I spoke in the Metropolitan Temple, 
where the largest audiences in the city were accustomed to 
assemble to hear the Mayor. 

I next met Mrs. Dr. Sawtelle, who was a medical student of 
mine in New York. After taking her medical degree she 
located herself in San Francisco, where she established the 
Medico-Literary Journal, which she continues to edit with 
good success. It had been one of my long cherished hopes at 
some time to become the founder of a college, and finding her 
of like mind, we resolved to engage at once in the work. 
Meetings were held, a board of officers was organized and 




548 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

duly incorporated according to the laws of that state. The 
following is a copy of the articles of incorporation: 

^ iepaFtimeEti ®i gfeafee. 

Sacramento, Nov. 14th, 1881. 

I, D. M. BURNS, Secretary of State ot the State of California, do hereby certify 
that acopy of Articles of Incorporation, duly certified by the County Clerk of 
San Francisco County, was filed in this office on the 14th day of November, A. D., 
1881, containing the following Statement of Facts : 

1. That the name of the Corporation is The Woman's Medical College, Hospital and 
Dispensary of the Pacific Coast. 

2. That the Purposes for which it is formed, are the establishment of a Woman's 
Medical College, Hospital and Dispensary, to grant diplomas and to acquire real 
estate and personal property necessary for the purposes of the Corporation. That the 
following shall be the Officers of said Corporation for the first year of its existence : 
President, Sarah E. Furnas Wells, M D. ; Dean , Mary PriscillaSawtelle, M. D. 

3. The place where its principal business is to be transacted is the City and 
County of San Francisco, State of California. 

4. The term for which it is to exist is fifty years. 

5. The number of its Directors or Trustees is five. 

« a <-u~ .,„„„„ „„a ,.„„ I Sarah E. Furnas Wells, M.D., San Francisco, Cal. 

And the names and res- Mary Priscilla Sawtelle, M. D., " 

idences of those who are to J s D san P Blunt " •' 

act as Directors or Trustees 1 EllenMDomet, 

tor the first year are: [ Carrie Elli?, Lodi, 

Cf~>- — ^ WITNESS my hand and the Great Seal of State, at office in Sacramento, 

-< seal > California, the 14th day of November, A. D., 1881. 

(< — , — ') D. M. BURNS, Secretary oj State. 

Our first term was five months. We had an interesting class 
of earnest students. Although many favored and encouraged 
our enterprise, and we had the highest compliments from the 
press, but few were willing, except under high salaries, to aid 
us in carrying on the work. However, we gave ourselves to it 
with earnestness and a determination to succeed. Day by day 
we toiled through the task of instructing classes, treating 
patients, and the general management of the business. We 
had rooms in one of the large buildings of a San Francisco 
millionaire. Upon afternoons, a Hood of golden sunlight 
poured through the windows. No fire was required although 
it was the winter season. I had large fine physiological 
maps and charts, which hung on the wall ; and we had appar- 
tus and other means of illustrating lectures. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 549 

Our closing exercises were held in the First Congregational 
Church — the place where Moody and Sankey held their first 
and largest meetings in San Francisco. 

ope nino address. 

An Address at the Opening Exercises of the Woman's Medical 
''ollege op the pacific coast, by mhs. sarah furna.s wells, m. d., 
President of the College. 

WOMEN IN MEDICINE AND THEIR COLLEGES. 

" In tracing the history of medicine, we find from the earliest 
times, the names of women gifted in the healing art, and pos- 
sessed of a knowledge of drugs and their application. Before 
the present schools of medicine, women were virtually the 
physicians of the world. Aspasia practiced medicine at Rome 
in the third century, and wrote a book on the diseases of 
women. Cleopatra's works are often quoted with favor. In 
the thirteenth century Tortula, an Arabian woman, published 
a treatise in which she makes mention that many Saracenic 
women practiced obstetrics at Solerno. 

" In the latter part of the eighteenth century, Madonna 
Manzolina lectured on anatomy at Bologna, while other ladies 
filled subordinate positions. Agnodice so distinguished herself 
in the practice of medicine, that a law was passed, allowing all 
free-born Grecian women to practice medicine. A social reform 
began to set in, affecting all classes of society. The breaking 
up of the old system, and the introduction of a new order of 
thought. Women now began to take a more important part 
in the affairs of social life. In western Europe, women became 
noted and brilliant in history. 

" The present century has witnessed the founding of many 
colleges by women, and for their intellectual and scientific 
culture. Catharine II. opened colleges and hospitals for 
women, and secured teachers to instruct them as nurses. 
Queen's College, which was opened in 1853, and to which a 
royal charter was granted, is under the supervision of the 
Bishop of London. Previous to the founding of colleges for 
women, we find them contributing largely to the founding of 
colleges for the opposite sex. In the University of Cambridge, 



550 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

containing thirteen colleges and four halls, we find the names 
of women active in the work of endowing that institution. 
Clare Hall and Pembroke Hall were founded by ladies. 
Margaret of Anjou founded and partly endowed Queen's 
College. Christ's College was endowed by a lady. In England, 
women first became distinguished in art, literature, and the 
drama. The queens of the drama have swayed the world, and 
won for themselves the brightest honors. They were necessary 
to the development of art. 

" In England, women made no progress in the study of 
medicine for years. The first movement in that direction was 
made by Elizabeth Garret Anderson, who, after years of opposi- 
tion, received her degree in medicine, and now has a lucrative 
practice in London. She has opened a hospital for women and 
children. Associated with her is a lady graduate, of conti- 
nental Europe. 

"In 1871, at the time of my second visit to England, the 
most intense excitement prevailed throughout the British 
Isles, over the rejection of Mrs. -Jex Blake, upon her presenting 
herself for graduation and passing the prescribed examina- 
tions. Ladies of rank rose in her behalf. Subscription to the 
amount of many hundred pounds sterling were raised, and at 
last the degree was granted. 

"Mrs. McLaren, the wife of a Member of Parliament from 
Edinburg, on learning of my arrival in London from Vienna, 
where I had studied and received certificates on practical sub- 
jects in medicine, came to see me. On hearing me relate my 
experience, she remarked : 'The Americans have just cause to 
be proud of you. for you have displayed as much courage as 
the soldier who takec- his place in the army, and you merit as 
much honor as the victorious general from the field of battle.' 
She took me with her in her carriage to the closing of the 
Houses of Parliament. Afterwards, in Edinburg, I was her 
guest at her house. 

"In the United States, long before this movement began in 
England, the Medical profession was open to women. When 
the question was first agitated, the medical colleges closed 
their doors against them, and even the advantages of hospitals 
was refused them. Colleges were therefore founded for the 



AROUND THE WORLD. 551 

purpose of teaching women. The ladies of our own country 
who were the first to adopt medicine as a profession, were 
those who opened the Women's Medical College in Phila- 
delphia, and the Medical College for Women in Boston, and 
the three Medical Colleges in New York. In Philadelphia, in 
a building north of Girard College, I attended my first course 
of medical lectures. Three devoted women, some thirty years 
ago, were seen going the dull rounds of duty day by day. 
The burden was heavy, but time has proved how well it was 
borne. The names of Dr. Emeline Horton Cleveland, Dr. 
Ann Preston, and Dr. Mary J. Scarlet, shine as brilliant gems 
in the diadem of medical fame. This institution is now 
richly endowed, and is one of the best in the country. About 
the same time the Blackwell sisters were engaged in New York, 
in laying the foundation of what is now a college of equal 
renown. Of all the women in medicine, none by her individual 
efforts has achieved such success as Dr. Clemence S. Lozier, 
Dean and Emeritus professor of the New York Medical 
College for Women — now a department of the University of 
New York — my own cherished Alma Mater. By the persever- 
ing efforts of this distinguished lady, a college and hospital 
was founded. Our building in New York was a brown stone 
front, worth forty thousand dollars, with apparatus obtained 
from Paris, for illustrating lectures, worth six thousand 
dollars. 

"Mrs. Lozier and others, opened the doors of Bellvue 
Hospital to women, gained access to the Eye and Ear Infirmary, 
Dr. Sim's Clinics, and the great Hospitals of Ward's Island. 
In all her public work and private practice, Dr. Lozier has 
preserved the dignity and sweetness of a true woman. 

"At the time of my graduation, there was a demand for 
ladies to fill professorships in medicine. I was selected by the 
trustees for a chair in Anatomy. My classmate, Mrs. Charlotte 
I. Lozier, was selected to fill a chair in Physiology. At her 
death, both professorships were conferred on me, which I held 
until called by the faculty to the chair in Obstetrics. To 
qualify myself for the responsible duties of this position, I 
went to the' hospital at Vienna, Austria, one of the largest in 
the world, under the care of eminent men in the medical 



552 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

profession. As I passed through Berlin, the coaches were 
filled with wounded and dying soldiers from the Franco- 
Prussian war, then raging in Europe. When I arrived at 
Vienna, I found the Typhus fever prevaing, but this did not 
deter me from my course. To my surprise the utmost 
courtesy was shown me by the men of science; the best 
opportunities were offered me to study the subject in all its 
scientific bearings. Such privileges, and a deep devotion to 
my profession, served to gain respect at the clinics from the 
hundreds of students from all parts of the world. In surgical 
operations I received the applause of the professors and 
students, and was granted certificates of the same degree as 
those received by the men. I returned and filled the chair to 
which I had been elected, with satisfaction to trustees and 
students. 

" For one, I am deeply interested in the Woman's Medical 
College, Hospital, and Dispensary of the Pacific Coast. Less 
than half a century has elapsed since the news of California's 
fabulous wealth has called to her shores the tide of immigra- 
tion. She now holds rank with her older sister states in 
science, art, and wealth. Behold the mighty change. Where 
the hamlet once stood, now taste, wealth, culture, and enter- 
prise, have erected this noble city, and embellished it with 
the decorations of fancy. 

" Our meeting this evening for the opening of the Woman's 
College of the Pacific Coast, is an event worthy the records of 
the march of progress. To woman's advancement, more 
liberality and courtesy could not be shown in any part of the 
world, and a more favored spot could not be selected. The 
idea was barely suggested when it was caught up and impelled 
onward with a force that surprised its originators. 

"This evening, we, the incorporators of the enterprise, are 
before you to impress you with the importance of this work. 
Woman and her work is one of the great questions of the age. 
She, as well as man, has a duty to be discharged for the welfare 
of humanity. The number of cultured women now engaged in 
the practice of medicine have demonstrated their ability and 
fitness to perform the duties with as much honor and dignity 
as men. The medical education of women is no longer a ques- 



AROUND THE WORLD. 553 

tion. To-day, no plea, no apology is needed. It is demanded 
by the dictates of justice, and it must be carried to the higher 
spheres of the profession. It is the aim of this institution to 
offer woman an opportunity to qualify herself to take rank in 
the profession, and as she does so, to put her shoulder to the 
wheel of progress, and advance, not only her own welfare, but 
that of mankind in general." 



ro 



554 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



FIFTEENTH TOUR -SAN FRANCISCO TO 
NEW YORK. 



CHAPTER I. 

Grandeurs of the Mountains — On the Summit of the 
Sierra Mountains — Avalanches and Snow Sheds — 
Deserts — Connection of the Trans-Continental Rail- 
ways — Salt Lake City — -Mormon Tabernacle — The Great 
Temple — Zion's Co-operative Mercantile Establishment 
— Mormonism — Environs. 

|N the twelfth day of May, 1882, we left San Francisco for 
the last time, commencing a journey across the Amer- 
ican continent — a distance of three and a half thousand 
miles. We went by steamer to Sacramento, where we tarried 
one week, and then took the train for Ogclen, Utah. The first 
day we passed through an interesting region — the great valley 
of California — rich in fields of waving grain, and beautified by 
forests of evergreen oaks We traversed the mining districts 
where great machinery was in operation — quartz mills for 
crushing the adamantine rocks, and appliances for washing 
out its precious contents. Then we came among the pictur- 
esque scenery of the Sierra Nevadas. Sierra is a Spanish term 
meaning " saw," and applies to the notched appearance of the 
sky as seen about the mountain ranges. Nevada signifies 
" snow," hence the name. Perpetual snow covers these moun- 
tains. They form the eastern boundary of California. In the 
time of .the earl 3^ explorers, these mountains became the scene 
of many adventures. 

In the loft}^ Sierras, scenes of the rarest beauty and sublimity 
meet the view — vast mountains, crystal lakes, sparkling water- 
falls, lovely valleys, with villages and gardens from which rise 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



555 




ATTACKED IB^T XJST33T^.X<rS. 

the fragrance of blossoming trees and flowers. Here and there 
is a canyon — nature's yawning chasm, rent in the rocks by 
some ponderous force of by-gone ages, leaving us only a faint 
conjecture of the awful spectacle when the mountain was cleft 
asunder. 
The day had been brilliant, and the sun went down in royal 



556 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

splendor. Language is inadequate to describe the scenic beau- 
ties of this region. 

" Seen 'neath the tender rays of setting sun 
It seemed a poet's dream but just begun ; 
An artist's fancy could not reach so far — 
'Tis a glimpse of Heaven with golden gates ajar." 

ON THE SUMMIT OF THE SIERRA MOUNTAINS. 

Leaving Sacramento at six in the morning, in the evening 
we reached the summit of the Sierras, an altitude of seven 
thousand seven hundred feet. In winter the snow falls along 
the crest to the depth of from fifteen to twenty feet. ] n spring 
avalanches sweep down the western sides of these mountains, 
bearing every obstacle with headlong fury into the valleys 
below — trees, rocks, snow, and vast quantities of loose material 
of every description — thus destroying mountain roads and 
impeding travel. These avalanches are generally called "land 
slides." The railroad in these regions is protected by snow- 
sheds or tunnels. These are built of wood and iron, and are 
substantial structures. At the time of the completion of the 
road, there were twenty-three miles, built at a cost of ten 
thousand dollars per mile; now there are forty-five miles, 
covering the entirre length of the road through the deep snow 
regions. The traveler is barely out of one before he is into 
another. 

DESERTS. 

The second morning we took breakfast at Reno, on the 
boundary between Nevada and California. Soon after leaving 
Reno, we entered the great Nevada desert, extending nearly 
the whole length of the state — four hundred and fifty miles. 
It is one great bed of lava and alkaline earth, destitute of 
water and vegetation, save only the sage bush. When near 
the eastern boundary of the state, we witnessed a very severe 
sand storm. During its progress, the conductor stopped the 
train, and while the doors and windows were closed, great 
inconvenience was experienced by the passengers from the 
sand, which crept in at every crevice in the cars. It became 
so dark that the landscape was scarcely discernable. In Utah 



AROUND THE WORLD. 557 

we passed through a portion of the Great American Desert — a 
region as desolate as we had left in Nevada. 

CONNECTION OF THE TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILWAYS 

About twenty miles from Ogden, we crossed Promontory 
Point — the place where the two sections of the great trans- 
continental railway were united, on the tenth day of May, 
1869. To witness this grand event, multitudes had gathered 
from various parts of the land. It was a day of final triumph 
over the completion of the great work which bound by one 
unbroken chain the East and the West. Communication by 
telegraph with New York and other metropolitan cities of the 
east and San Francisco, was made through the medium of 
wires attached to the handle of a silver hammer and to the last 
spike driven. When the hammer came into contact with the 
spike, the intelligence flashed over the wires to the principal 
cities of the United States. The last tie was a beautiful piece 
of workmanship, of California laurel, highly polished, and 
ornamented at each end by silver plates. The connecting 
rails were laid by parties from each company. The last spikes 
were presented, one of gold from California, one of silver from 
Nevada, and another of iron, silver and gold from Arizona. 
The president of the road took the hammer, and with the first 
stroke on the head of the gold spike, the news was carried over 
the continent on the wires. 

SALT LAKE CITY. 

From Ogden, we took the Utah Central Railway to Salt Lake 
City — thirty-six miles. The country along the line — once an 
arid waste— -was now clad in the fragrant garb of spring. This 
desert region was selected forty years ago as a site for the capital 
of the Mormon communities. At the base of the Wasatch 
Mountains they founded Salt Lake City, which now contains a 
population upwards of twenty thousand. It is laid out in 
squares of ten acres each, with streets one hundred and thirty 
feet wide. Streams of pure water from the mountains flow 
along the side-walks, which are lined with numerous shade 
trees, public squares, and gardens. The town plat shows about 
twenty six square miles, or seventeen thousand acres, laid out 



558 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

favorably with those of our eastern cities; and, indeed, some 
very magnificent residences have been erected here, costing 
from fifty to seventy-five thousand dollars. The large and 
beautifully ornamented grounds, with magnificent drives and 
closely sheared lawns, are a mark of taste and wealth. 

MORMON TABERNACLE. 

The Mormon tabernacle is one of the chief edifices of Salt 
Lake City. It was built at a cost of half a million dollars, and 
accommodates fifteen thousand people. It is elliptical in shape, 
with a rounded dome which composes the entire roof. This is 
supported by forty-six columns or pillars, three feet thick, nine 
feet long, and fourteen feet high. The space between them is 
used for doors and windows. It is two hundred and fifty feet 
long, and one hundred and fifty feet wide. From the pillars 
or wall, rises the roof in one unbroken arch, forming the 
largest self-supporting roof on the continent. The building 
was constructed with such strict adherance to acoustic princi- 
ples, that persons setting near the stand and those at the 
farthest distance from it, can hear equally well. 

The organ is one of large size, being fifty-eight feet high. It 
has fifty stops, and three thousand pipes. It is made of hard 
wood from the native trees in the neighboring mountains. 
The cost of the organ is one hundred thousand dollars. 
An organist and trained choir of men and women, lead the 
music. The Mormon apostles and elders occupy the raised 
seats in front of the choir. Before them is placed a goblet of 
cold water, which they use in the services instead of wine. 

We attended services in this tabernacle. There were several 
speakers who took part in the services. The general tenor of 
the discourse, was a rehearsal of the conflicts through which the 
church had passed, and an exhortation to emulate the virtues 
of the departed saints, and to stand fast against the encroach- 
ments of the Gentiles. 

THE OREAT TEMPLE. 

The Great Temple, now in process of construction, is located 
on the eastern portion of the Temple Block. The building is 
two hundred feet long and one hundred feet wide, and when 



AROUND THE WORLD. 559 

complete, is to be two hundred feet to the top of the steeple. 
The building is not yet one hundred feet high, and it has cost 
near two million dollars. The walls are nine feet thick at the 
base. About one hundred hands are employed in its con- 
struction. The corner stone was laid in 1853 — now a little 
more than thirty-two years ago. 

ZIONS CO-OPERATIVE MERCANTILE INSTITUTE 

This was founded in 1868. by Brigham Young, and is the 
great mercantile headquarters where the Mormons mostly 
obtain their supplies. The building is of brick, and is three 
hundred and eighteen feet long and one hundred feet wide. 
More than one hundred and fifty clerks are usually employed 
in this establishment. The annual sales amount to near five 
million dollars. Near the top of the building, in prominent 
letters, is the inscription, "Holiness to the Lord" and on the 
central part of the building appear the words, "All Seeing 
Eye.". 

About one hundred and twenty thousand Mormons are now 
in Utah, six hundred in Nevada, and in Arizona and Idaho 
some colonies have been formed. 

We visited the residences of Brigham You ag, one called the 
Bee-hive house, and the other the Lion house. At the latter 
place I conversed with Hannah Lewis, one of Brigham's wives. 
She took me through the house. In the dining room was the 
table where Brigham formerly dined in company with his 
family of Seventy-five — including wives, children, and grand 
children. I also became acquainted with Ann Eliza Brown, 
one of the wives of Joseph Smith, the founder of Mormonism. 
She is the author of several beautiful poems. 

We called on and was received by Mr. Taylor, the present 
Mormon President, At the time of our visit he was holding 
a meeting of the elders at his house. 

In one Mormon family, where there were six wives, a frame 
hung upon the wall containing the photographs of twenty- 
seven of their children, In most cases each wife has her own 
apartment, and in some instances they occupy separate houses. 
One of the young ladies in one family made known to me that 
she was as averse to polygamy as any one could be, and would 



560 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

for the city. The mountains form a kind of half semi-circle 
on the east and north of the city. The buildings will compare 
gladly leave them and come east with us. Knowing the great 
danger we should incur in giving aid to any one to escape from 
the thralldom, we did not think it wise to encourage her to 
accompany us. From what I have seen of the pernicious 
influences of the system of potygamy, not only at Salt Lake 
City, but also in the eastern countries, I can but say that my 
feelings strongly protest against it, as a practice destroying the 
family tie and degrading woman. 

ENVIRONS. 

We made excursions to the celebrated Mineral Springs in 
the environs of the city ; to the Jordan river, and the Great 
Salt Lake, fifteen miles from the city, which is a popular bathing 
resort in summer. The lake is about eighty miles long and 
thirty wide. Its greatest depth is sixteen feet. It contains 
nine islands; the largest is about sixteen miles long. All the 
islands are destitute of streams of water, or vegetation. The 
lake is exceedingly salt, amounting to twenty per cent. of. the 
water. It contains no animal life. Persons cannot sink 
beneath its waters, but some have died from its effect when 
strangled by it. The altitude of the lake is four thousand 
two hundred and eighty feet, and has no visible outlet. Its 
principal tributaries are the Jordan, Weaver, and Bear rivers. 
We remained two weeks in Salt Lake City and Ogden } and 
then continued our journey toward Omaha. 



AROUND THE WORLD, 561 



CHAPTER II. 

Journey to Omaha — Summit of the Rocky Mountains- 
Prairie Dogs — Indian Babies — Omaha — Cyclones — Ex- 
cursion to Atchison and Kansas City — Steamboat Ride 
Down the Missouri River — St. Louis — Tour of the 
World Completed— Exposition at Cincinnati and Louis- 
ville — Meeting Relations — A Visit to the Old Home- 
stead — Bi-Centennial, Philadelphia — Return to New 
York. 

fOME of the grandest scenery on the Pacific Railway lies 
in the thousand miles between Ogden and Omaha. 
The broad sunlit plains and fertile fields soon give way 
to towering mountains and massive rocks, rearing their heads 
so far toward heaven as to claim a home among the clouds. 
One moment we were crossing the roaring torrent, the next 
plunging through the dark mountain tunnel, and soon rush- 
ing between hills of enormous dimensions. To transfer a true 
description of these scenes to the printed page would be 
impossible. The following illustration shows something of 
the character of the scenery. This chasm, through which the 
Colorado flows, passes through the entire plateau, with a depth 
varying from fifteen hundred to six thousand feet. It flows 
through the "Marble Canyon" for a distance of sixty miles. 
The walls here are from two thousand to five thousand feet in 
height, and polished by nature in a high degree, exhibiting 
many colors. At one point there is a flood plain, like polished 
marble, embossed by a thousand fantastic patterns. We passed 
Pulpit Rock, Table Rock, Castle Rock, Hanging Rock, and 
Serrated Rock, all of which bear marked resemblance to the 
objects from which they are named. Amidst these scenes of 
grandeur are portions of picturesque beauty: a bright valley, 
a stream or a lakelet, reflecting the bright rays of the sun 
and imaging the picture of the sterner aspects of nature. 



56'2 



TEK YEARS' TRAVEL 



" As a glimpse of Paradise framed in green 
Is this tiny lake of blue, 
Capturing the rifts of the sun's rich gleam, 
Sporting with every hue." 

Higher altitudes were yet to be reached. This region is 
remarkable for its deep canyons and bold vertical heights, 

scattered here and 
there between the 
Sierra Nevada and 
the Rocky Moun- 
tains. Eighty-sev- 
en miles from Og- 
den we entered the 
Territory of Wyom- 
ing, and soon came 
in view r of the crest 
of the Rocky Moun- 
tains, which attain 
an elevation of from 
ten thousand to sev- 
enteen thousand 
feet. This is the 
great backbone of 
the continent. It is 
covered with snow 7 
the greater part of 
the year, the peaks 
always wearing a 
white robe — even 
when the valleys 
between them are 
clad in verdure and 
adorned with beau- 
tiful roseate hues. 
The various ridges 
of the Rocky Moun- 
tains have received 
local names, such as 
maeble c .a. -lt tt o -lt . Snowy Ridge, the 

Black Hills, and Medicine Bow ; but they are all parts of the 




AROUND THE WORLD. 563 

same great chain. Soon after leaving the valley of Salt 
Lake, churches, school houses, and other traces of civilization 
disappear; but upon entering Wyoming they soon offer their 
kindly influence to tell the abode of man, and the home of 
industry and happiness, sheltered from the cold winds by the 
surrounding mountains, and watered by their reservoirs — the 
everlasting snows. The elevation of the plain around Laramie 
is more than six thousand feet; yet it is protected by the vast 
mountain walls rising in sublime grandeur around it. Laramie 
is the center of a considerable trade and much prosperity. 
Wyoming was the first territory in the Union to give to woman 
the right of suffrage; and here was the first jury of women 
empaneled. The first case w r as that of a western desparado. 
They knelt, in prayer before passing sentence, but not one of 
them faltered. 

On June twelfth, we reached Sherman, the highest point of 
the Rocky Mountains. On the railroad, the elevation is eight 
thousand two hundred and forty-two feet. Sherman was 
named in honor of the tallest general in the late American 
war. It is distant from San Francisco one thousand three 
hundred and sixty-five miles, and from Omaha five hundred 
and fifty miles. The scene here is peculiarly impressive. We 
are in the midst of a level grassy plain. Around us rise giant 
peaks with mighty torrents pouring down their sides. Ravines 
and sloping hill-sides are covered with dense forests — the dark 
haunts of wild animals. Floating masses of white clouds may 
be seen hanging far below the mountains; and to the south — 
hundreds of miles away in Colorado: — may be seen Pike's Peak 
and Long's Peak. We were favored with this view on the 
summit of the mountains early on a clear morning. It is one 
of the wildest views on the continent, and most impressive of 
desolation and awe-inspiring grandeur. The mementoes that 
Ave brought from this locality was a box of precious stones, 
gathered from many locations on the Rocky Mountains, among 
which were several specimens of agate. The mountains about 
here are rich in gems and precious metals. 

On the day we passed the crest of the Rocky Mountains we 
reached Nebraska. The distance from Omaha to the western 
part of this state is four hundred and seventy-nine miles. It 



564 



TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



is a great expanse of prairie, covered with grass and with) 
woodland along the Platte and its tributaries. It is claimed 
that this is the best grass country on the globe, with room for 
millions of cattle to graze — 'thus affording an abundant supply 
of meat for the cities in the more thickly settled states. There 
have been many instances of emigrants who have traveled 
more than two thousand miles with oxen, and turned them f 
worn out, to graze here in winter. In the spring they would 
be found fat enough for beef, by feeding on the nutritious grass- 
of the prairies. 



PRAIRIE DOG CITY 



We passed through what is called " Prairie Dog City," occu- 
pying several hundred acres. Their homes consist of little 
mounds of earth about one foot high, made by the dirt being 




IlTni.1IT C :H X IE IF 1 ; 



excavated from the burrows in the ground. They have a hole 
on the top, into which the animal darts on the least alarm. 
We saw numbers of these seated on their mounds and running 
about from place to place. Their fur is of a cinnamon brown, 
and they are about the size of a large squirrel. We tried to 



AROUND THE WORLD, 505 

catch some of them, but at our approach they scampered away 
and were soon out of sight. 

INDIAN BABIES, 

Over the prairies of Nebraska still roam tribes of Indians. 
At some stations they came up to the train to sell beads and 
ornamental work in shells, wood, and stone. We saw a group 
of Indians— -men and women — seated on the ground, betting 
on a game of cards. Some of the women had their babies, 
with their clothing wrapped about them after the manner of 
swaddling bands. They asked twenty-five cents to uncover 
the face of a child to let the passengers see it — which sum a 
few of our company paid. Our illustration shows a band of 
warlike chiefs, equipped for battle, and their wigwams set up. 

There is a charming variety presented in the broad prairies. 
No where else have we seen vegetation clothed in brighter 
colors. Flowers of a thousand different hues and varieties 
greet the eye at every step. There are places girt round with 
trees whose dark rich foliage, drooping upon the pelucid waters, 
sway gracefully with every rippling of the Waves— a scene 
which recalls the poem beginning : 

"In the bosom of a rolling prairie, 
In the very heart or nature's garden, 
In the land of beauty's charms enchanting^ 
Lies a lovely sparkling water 
Fringed with timber-oaks, and elms, and maples.'* 

OMAHA. 

On the fourteenth day of June we reached Omaha. At four 
p. m. we left for St. Joseph, located one hundred and thirty 
miles down the Missouri. We had time to see the principal 
places in Omaha, and to go across the river on the bridge to 
Council Bluffs, in Iowa. These two cities form a point of 
transfer of goods and passengers from the trains from different 
directions, and are therefore active centers of trade. Here we 
see the practical business affairs of life— money making, indus- 
try, commerce, and bread winning. A point on the Missouri 
river near Omaha, was the starting place of the Union Pacific 
Railroad Company, in the construction of their great trans- 
continental highway, which links ocean to ocean — east to west. 



566 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

Had we continued direct east to New York, the distance 
would have been three thousand four hundred and fifty miles, 
but we made a circuitous journey, traveling several hundred 
miles to the south. The route to St. Joseph lies along that 
majestic stream, the Missouri, and with deep interest I 
viewed the great volume of dark waters, the luxuriant vegeta- 
tion clothing its banks, and rich crops of grain, with thriving 
towns and delightful country homes. St. Joseph is one of the 
oldest cities on the Missouri, and before the stage line was 
opened to California, this city was the starting point of the 
" Pony Express," and many a messenger from this place has 
met with exciting adventures. 

St. Joseph is built chiefly of brick, in this respect differing 
from most other western towns. 

CVCLON ES. 

I gave lectures in the various churches, but was compelled 
to desist before I had completed the series intended on account, 
of cyclones. These came in great numbers and with terrific 
force, so that people were sometimes afraid to venture from 
their houses. One cyclone cloud, which passed in sight, appear- 
ed in the form of a large funnel with apex downward. It had 
a deep purple tinge, and revolved spirally as it swept rapidly 
onward. I have witnessed many great storms on land and 
sea, but I have never before seen any so appalling — none 
that seemed to threaten such immediate destruction as these 
cyclones. 

EXCURSION TO ATCHISON AND KANSAS CITY. 

On the fourth of July we made an excursion to Atchison, 
Kansas, twenty-two miles further down the Missouri, where wo 
spent the day in witnessing the celebration of our national 
Independence, in one of the most prosperous states in the 
Union — ever foremost in the march of progress and freedom. 

July twenty -first, we went from St. Joseph to Kansas City, a 
distance of sixty-eight miles. This city, like Omaha, is one of 
of our rapidly growing western communities, where enterprise 
is pushed with manly vigor and intrepidity. Here, no public 



AROUND THE WORLD. 567 

meeting or kind of entertainment is more popular than the 
circus. 

A STEAMBOAT RIDE ON THE MISSOURI RIVER. 

From July twenty-ninth, till August second, we enjoyed a 
most delightful voyage on the steamboat, Montana, from 
Kansas City to St. Louis— a journey of four hundred and fifty 
miles down the Missouri and Mississippi rivers. We had an 
elegant state room, and from our windows viewed a magnifi- 
cent panorama of nature and art — -forests ol tall trees, miles of 
corn-fields laden with golden grain, lovely islands in the river, 
foliage upon the tall trees, and the lily whose leaves rested 
upon the surface of the waters. Songs of wild birds greeted 
our ears, and clusters of wild flowers entertained our eyes. 
Four times each day the table was spread with the riches of 
earth, and colored waiters were ready to answer every call and 
render us happy— so far as happiness depends on external 
things. 

It was in the afternoon when we reached the Mississippi— 
my first view of the '* Father of Waters." Our voyage on this 
river was short, for soon the Montana made the twenty-eight 
mile and cast anchor at the wharf in St. Louis. 

ST. LOUIS. 

We spent two weeks in viewing the metropolis of the Missis- 
sippi Valley. Many claim that this city will, within half a 
century, become the first city of the United States, as a result 
of the advantage of location, climate, and water highways. 
The suspension bridge across the Mississippi is a wonderful 
structure. No other city can vie with St. Louis in its steam- 
boats, which are magnificent floating palaces, giving safety 
and ease to travelers. Another claim to superiority is her 
botanical gardens, which are unsurpassed, both in the collec- 
tion of plants and in classification. The city has many elegant 
buildings and well paved streets. Within her suburbs are 
located elegant villas and mansions. It is the home of General 
Sherman. 

TOUR OF THE WORLD COMPLETED. 

We left St. Louis for Indianapolis, Indiana, arriving thert 
at four o'clock, a. m., on the nineteenth of August, 1882. 



568 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

Although I started from New York when I entered upon this 
tour, yet £ had now traveled entirely around the world. 
Almost ten years had elapsed since I commenced this long 
journey, and in all, nearly twelve years had been spent in 
travel. In distant countries I had enjoyed many remarkable 
privileges, and encountered many dangers both on land and 
sea. With desires to complete the circuit of the earth, and 
again stand upon my native soil, and view the scenes of my 
childhood, I had often lifted my heart in humble petition 
that I might be preserved. And now with gladness, I could 
but thank a kind Providence who had guided my footsteps 
through many lands. 

From Indianapolis we continued our journey to Cincin- 
nati, and on September Fifth, I had the privilege of greeting 
my eldest sister, who came to Cincinnati to see me. We had 
parted just ten years before, whenl last left my home in Ohio, 

We witnessed the procession that took place at the opening 
of the exposition. It consisted of displays passing through 
the streets on wagons, representing the various industries, 
arranged with a view to advertise business in a practical 
way. We visited the exposition • many similar displays we 
had before witnessed in other parts of the globe. We saw the 
electric fountain, and heard the grand music, for which this 
Paris of America is so justly celebrated. 

BY STEAMER TO LOUISVILLE. 

We attended the exposition at Louisville, which opened on 
the Twelfth of September. We went by steam boat, and 
returning the same way traveled about three hundred miles. 
The voyage was a constant delight, the air was balmy, a great 
relief from the heat and dust of city life. As the steamer cut 
her way gallantly through the dark water, the winding of the 
river brought constantly to our view, villages and towns, 
wooded hills and vine-clad fields. How often such scenes have 
filled my heart with veneration for the Creator, and stamped 
upon my soul impressious of joy and beauty to last forever ! 

It was in the early morning when we arrived at Louisville, 
but the people were already busy putting up decorations to 
embellish the opening of the exposition. The streets were 



AROUND THE WORLD. 569 

thronged with people, the parade was grand, and in the even- 
ing the pyrotechnic display was unsurpassed, especially that of 
the boats on the river. 

After returning to Cincinnati we went again to Indianapolis, 
and thence to Spiceland, to visit my sister until October tenth, 
when we went to West Milton, Ohio. 

A VISIT TO THE OLD HOMESTEAD. 

On the nineteenth I visited my old home, the place of my 
childhood — of by-gone years. The years that I had passed in 
traversing many far off lands had not effaced from my memory 
the recollections of that cherished spot, but had embellished 
it with visions too sweet, too sacred to be removed, and encir- 
cled it with a halo of glory whose amaranthine brightness 
envizages all the delights of by-gone years, and causes them to 
pass before me — a sweet, sad memory ! Who has not wandered 
away from home knows not the delights of return. While the 
years of my absence have almost passed unheeded, they have 
not been idle here. "Time — Time, the tomb-builder" — has 
held reign. Some of my friends were scattered to the east and 
the great west. Those who joined me at school in the merry 
laugh, now wear "the brow of care." Some, with graves hidden 
in their hearts, mourn the loss of loved ones. While I gazed 
upon the cherished spot, I could sing with the " spirit and un- 
derstanding," " Home, home, sweet home." Oh ! the ever sacred 
treasures of the past, hidden in memory ! Other scenes I have 
witnessed, grander, more beautiful. I have seen the heavens 
lit with the lurid lightnings, and heard the thunder's deep 
wide roll, as angry tones of nature convulsed ; I have seen 
the ocean lashed into fury by storms, and the surging billow's 
roll ; I have looked upon the volcano as it poured forth its 
molten lava, deluging earth with liquid fire, and destroying 
everything in its fiery track as it rolled onward toward the sea; 
I have felt the earthquake rend the solid crust of earth's bosom 
and engulf in fury rural homes and cities — all these have 
found a response in my soul; but the simple scenes of home 
and childhood ! bow they crowd into one short hour, years I 
have lived, laughed, wept, and suffered. How they surpass 
all the experiences common to mankind ! 



570 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

I visited the grave yard where lie my parents — father and 
mother, both gone ! Other friends dear to memory — gone ! I 
visited the church where I worshipped God earliest. Not 
grand, oh no; plain, but oh how dear, how sacred ! I poured 
forth my useless tear, only symbolic — my soul communed 
with the dreamy past. 

BI-CENTENNIAL, PHILADELPHIA. 

On September twenty-second, I gave a lecture on Palestine 
in the Friends' Church in West Milton. The next day we 
started for Philadelphia, six hundred miles distant. This road 
I had often traversed at the time when my home was in the east. 
It was still full of interest, especially through the Alleghany 
Mountains. On entering Philadelphia we had a good view of 
of the fire-works on the Schuylkill at the opening of the 
Penn Centennial. We attended the various exhibitions of 
that festival. Those in the evening were remarkable for their 
scenic effect. The streets were crowded with thronging multi- 
tudes — more than I had seen since the Imperial Assemblage in 
India. I lectured on my travels at the Franklin Institute — 
one of the oldest of the many scientific institutions of the 
city. 

RETURN TO NEW YORK. 

On December 3, 1882, we arrived in New York, the place 
from which I had started on my tour around the world. The 
weather was intensely cold, as New York winters usually are. 
We remained here only one week; in this, however, we saw 
many costly and elegant preparations for the holidays. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 571 



SIXTEENTH TOUR-THROUGH THE SOU 



CHAPTER I. 



Washington City — The Capitol — Senate Chamber — Libra- 
ry Room — Magnificent View op the City — Executive 
Mansion — Treasury Department — Post Office Depart- 
ment — The Place of Lincolns Assassination — The Ob- 
servatory. 

JN December 12, 1882, we left New York City on a tour 
through the South, stopping at Washington City — two 
hundred and fifty miles distant. We arrived at the 
depot where the shooting of Garfield took place, and were 
conducted to the spot. It is marked by a silver star, set into 
the marble floor. We remained at Washington one week, and 
visited all the places of special note. Washington has been 
denominated the "City of Magnificent Distances." It presents 
some of the grandest prospects in the world. Its chief glory is 
its avenues, twenty one of which radiate from the Capitol. 
They are one hundred and sixty feet wide and bordered by 
shade trees. It is said that thirty thousand of these trees have 
been planted to beautify the city. The aggregate length of the 
streets and avenues is about two hundred and fifty miles. 
The city is adorned by public squares and monuments. There 
are equestrian statues of Washington, Jackson, Scott, Lincoln, 
and many other distinguished men, prominent in the cause of 
American liberty. The undulating surface in the city and 
environs presents a beautiful and picturesque landscape. 

THK CAPITOL. 

First in interest to every patriot, is the Capitol. It is hand- 
somely situated upon an eminence, and is the most prominent 
object in the city, covering a space of three and and a half 



572 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

acres. The beholder is impressed with its noble proportions, 
its magnificent colonnades, and its great dome. The rotunda is 
ninety -six feet in diameter, and one hundred and eighty feet 
high. It is constructed of iron, and is one of the best speci- 
mens of iron architecture in the world. The front of the 
building is adorned with a flight of broad marble steps, and 
eight hundred feet of Egyptian colonnades. Ascending the 
steps, we passed through the main entrance and stood beneath 
the dome. The panels of the rotunda and the walls are 
decorated with historical paintings, life size — the work of 
master artists. The doors leading to the various departments 
are of exquisite workmanship. They were designed in Rome 
and cast in Munich. The paintings, statues, and frescoes in 
the building make it a gallery of art within itself. Marble stair 
cases lead to the Senate Chamber and the Hall of Representa- 
tives, and are gems of architecture. In the stair case leading 
to the ladies' gallery, is the great painting of Leutze, represent- 
ing the advance of civilization toward the west. Its motto, 
" Westward the star of empire takes its way." The painting 
cost thirty thousand dollars. 

The south wing of the building contains the Hall of Repre- 
sentatives. It is one hundred and thirty-nine feet long, by 
ninety-three feet wide. It has a gallery extending entirely 
around it, with a seating capacity for twelve hundred persons. 
The ceiling is thirty feet high, and is of iron work, bronzed, 
gilded, paneled, and decorated with the emblems of the several 
states. The speaker's desk is of white marble. Two beautiful 
silk flags of the United States are arranged above his seat. 
We were in this hall when the Representatives were assembled, 
and listended to the proceedings. Just back of the speaker's 
chair is his room — one of the most elegant in the building. 
The vestibule opening to the south extension, has twenty-four 
columns and forty pilasters, with sculptured capitals represent- 
ing corn leaves and tobacco. Upon each is a magnolia, from a 
cast of the original flower. 

THE SENATE CHAMBER. 

The Senate Chamber is in the center of the north wing, It 
is appropriately ornamented with mouldings, bronzes, gildings 



AROUND THE WORLD. 573 

and richly stained glass. The gallery which surrounds this 
hall will seat one thousand persons. The Senators sit behind 
small desks in semi-circular rows, facing the Vice-President, 
who occupies a raised dias. The Senate was in session at the 
time of our visit. The apartments of the President and Vice- 
President are sumptuously furnished and are magnificent. The 
marble room is one of the most beautiful in the world. The 
ceiling is of white marble, polished, deeply paneled, and is 
supported by pillars of Italian marble. The walls are of 
Tennessee marble — a soft brown, varied with white. 

THE LIBRARY ROOM. 

The Congressional Library is in the western projection of 
the Capitol. A copy of every publication for which a copy- 
right is taken must be sent there. The number of books is 
constantly increasing, so that a new library building will 
soon be necessary. The building is thoroughly fire proof. 
The ceiling is of iron, supported by iron pillars. The 
pilasters and panels are of iron, painted and tinged with pale 
green^and burnished with gold leaf. The floors are laid of black 
and white marble. They are covered with a cloth composed 
of India rubber and cork. The leg of each table has a pad of 
solid India rubber under it. Everything is in the attitude of 
the deepest quiet. No one is allowed to speak above a 
whisper. The books are kept in iron cases in galleries on 
either side of the hall. Including the department of law, the 
library contains above five miles of book shelves. Here may 
be found a copy of " Ten Years' Travel Around the World," 
in best style of binding.. 

MAGNIFICENT VIEW OF THE CITY. 

Passing through the library to the colonnade outside, we 
obtained a splendid view of the city. From this position 
Humboldt declared the scene to be the most beautiful of its 
type in the world. Standing in the same place, Charles 
Sumner said, " This city is more beautiful than Rome." Just 
below la} T the Capitol grounds, mantled with green grass 
and adorned by lofty trees, beds of flowers, and beautiful 
lawns ; the broad avenues radiating through the city ; the 



574 TEiX YEARS' TRAVEL 

Executive Mansion and the Treasury Building, gleaming up 
among the trees a mile away; the city with its houses in 
masses of foliage; the Potomac, winding through its midst, 
and Arlington Heights beyond, all appear to view. 

EXECUTIVE MANSION. 

The President's house is in the western part of the city. It 
is built of free stone. After it was burned by the British in 
1814, its blackened walls were painted white, hence its name, 
" The White House." It is three stories high, one hundred and 
seventy feet long by eighty-six feet wide. It has a lofty 
portico of Ionic columns on the north, and a semi-circular 
Ionic colonnade on the south. The portico opens upon 
a spacious hall, forty by fifty feet, which is divided by 
a row of Ionic columns. Through this hall, the visitor 
passes into the reception room opposite. This is called 
the Red Room. The various rooms are named from the 
color of their respective decorations and furniture. The 
large bay window in the Red Room, looks out upon 
the park and away to the Potomac. In this room the 
President receives foreign Ministers and officers of the 
Republic. The Red Room opens into the Blue Room. Here 
the President's wife holds her receptions. One day in 
each week, she receives from three to five p. m. by gas 
light. The Blue Room opens into the Green Room. It is 
an emerald, touched with gold. The furniture is mahogany, 
cushioned with damask of green and gold. From the Green 
Room is entered the famous East Room, extending along the 
entire eastern side of the house. The portraits of eight Presi- 
dents hang upon the wall, in golden frames. Here the Presi- 
dent holds his levees. 

The average state dinner costs about seven hundred dollars, 
while a special state dinner may cost fifteen hundred dollars. 
The one given Prince Arthur, of England, cost that sum, 
not including wines. The dinner proper consists of twen- 
ty-nine courses. Six wine glasses and an elegant bouquet 
are placed beside each plate. The President and wife always 
receive the guests in the Red Room at seven o'clock, all in 
evening dress, with white gloves. The President leads the way 



AROUND THE WORLD. 575 

to the state table with the wife of the Senator oldest in office, 
and Mrs. President, with the Senatorial husband of the 
president's lady. Leaving the table, they pass into the con- 
servatory, one of the largest in the country. 

TREASURY BUILDING. 

On the east of the Capitol is the Treasury Building, which 
ranks next to the Capitol in architectural splendor. It is 
constructed of freestone and granite. It is four hundred and 
sixty-eight feet in length by two hundred and sixty-four feet 
in width, with Ionic porticos on the four sides. Into the large 
marble halls, which extend through the building, open a great 
number of rooms for the use of the various officers of the 
Treasury Department. 

The cash room is built almost exclusively of marble. Seven 
varieties merge into each other to make the harmony of its 
blending hues. The business of the treasury affords daily 
employment for more than three thousand persons. 

THE POST-OFFICE DEPARTMENT. 

The General Post-Office is an imposing structure of pure 
Corinthian style in white marble. A number of aged clergy- 
men are employed in the .Dead Letter Office. More than three 
million letters annually find their way into this office, where 
they are examined, and, if possible, sent to the writer. If this 
can not be done they are thrown into the waste basket and 
sold, and the proceeds placed to the credit of the government. 
In this way about four thousand dollars are realized annually. 

THE PLACE OF LINCOLN'S ASSASSINATION. 

A visit to the Army Medical Museum, on Tenth street, 
brought fresh to my memory the time when it was used as 
Ford's Theater — the place where President Lincoln was 
assassinated. The place where he was sitting when shot, 
was pointed out. Within a few feet of this place are a 
portion of the remains of J. Wilkes Booth, the assassinator. 
Three vertebra3 taken from his neck, and mounted upon a 
stand, and by them a jar of alcohol containing a portion of 



576 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

the spinal cord. This museum was opened in two years after 
the death of Lincoln. 

We also made a visit to the Smithsonian Institute, and the 
Washington Monument recently dedicated — at that time in 
process of erection. It is built from stone sent by the various 
nations of the globe, bearing appropriate inscriptions. It is 
five hundred and fifty-five feet high — the highest artificial 
structure in the world. Upon the summit is a pyramid of 
white marble, surmounted by a copper apex. The interior is 
lighted by electricity, and contains an elevator by which the 
visitor may reach the summit. 

THE OBSERVATORY. 

We visited all the different government buildings and 
places of historical note in the city, and went to the National 
Observatory, situated on the bank of the Potomac on the way 
to Georgetown. From the flagstaff on the dome of the build- 
ing, the signal ball is dropped daily at noon, transmitting by 
telegraphic connection the mean time at Washington, to all 
parts of the United States. 

We enjoyed the privilege of looking through the great 
telescope, at the moon, Saturn, and Jupiter. This instru- 
ment was made by Alvin Clark, at a cost of nearly fifty 
thousand dollars. The object glass is twenty-six inches in 
diameter. 

Another place of interest within the environs of the city is 
Arlington Heights, across the Potomac on the Virginia shore. 
Here is the National Cemetery in which lie buried the bodies 
of fifteen thousand Union soldiers. This is the old Arlington 
estate belonging to the Lee family, and is noted for having 
changed hands but twice since it was granted to Lord Arlington 
by King James of England. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 577 



CHAPTER II. 

The Journey Continued to the South — Richmond, Virginia 
— Two Weeks at Charleston — Visit to Savannah and 
Florida— Jacksonville — The Tour Ended at New Or- 
leans. 

||H|y ROM Washington we went to Richmond, Virginia, a 
'llBI distance of one hundred and sixteen miles. On the 
"P way we passed Alexandria, the principal port on the 
Potomac. Although one hundred miles from the Chesapeake, 
it affords anchorage for the largest vessels. We also passed 
noted hattle fields, where many a hrave man laid down his life 
in the civil war. Some of these sacred places are now culti- 
vated in fields of grain, while others are thickly covered with 
pine trees. 

We passed through Fredricksburg on the Potomac, where 
McClellan kept the Union forces stationed so long, with the 
north impatiently crying, "On to Richmond!" Here was 
fought one of the great battles of the war — Burnsides against 
Lee, whose combined armies numbered nearly two hundred 
thousand. 

On our journey snow fell — the first I had seen except on the 
mountain tops, since I began my tour around the world more 
than ten years before. 

RICHMOND VIRGINIA. 

We spent the Christmas holidays and the first week in 1883, 
in Richmond — the metropolis of the Old Dominion state. 
From the windows of our appartments we looked out upon 
some very interesting places — the State House, which stands 
on an eminence in the midst of beautiful grounds, among 
stately trees; and the esplanade near the Capitol square, with 
its famous equestrian statue of Washington, which is claimed 



578 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

to be one of the best bronzes in the United States. The 
horse and rider are of colossal size. Upon the base of the 
statue are bronze figures of eminent generals and statesmen. 

We visited the State House and saw the halls where the 
Confederates held their sessions of congress during the rebel- 
lion. 

The James river in the city is spanned by five bridges, from 
either one of which the view is very fine. In the business part 
of the city there are many solid and handsome buildings. 
The private residences are usually situated amidst a garden 
of trees and flowers. In the suburbs, unusual taste is displayed 
in the construction of private dwellings. There are two public 
parks — one at the east, the other at the west end of the city. 
Rising from the bank of the river are Libby Prison and Castle 
Thunder, used during the war as military prisons, but now as 
tobacco ware-houses. On Christmas day we went to see Libby 
Prison. 

One of the most noted churches in Richmond is St. John's 
Episcopal. In this house the Virginia Convention met in 
1775. This convention decided the attitude of the colony 
toward the government. Here Patrick Henry said : " I know 
not what course others may take, but as for me, give me liberty, 
or give me death ! " 

TWO WEEKS AT CHARLESTON. 

From Richmond, we went to Charleston, S. C, a distance of 
four hundred and seventy miles. At Richmond, the ground 
was covered with snow, and rain fell in heavy showers all the 
way through our journey. In the morning when we arrived 
at Charleston, the sun was shining, the weather was balmy, 
and as we sat at breakfast the windows were raised, and the 
fragrance of a thousand flowers was wafted upon the breeze. 

Charleston is one of the most beautiful of Southern cities. * 
The better class of buildings are not in blocks, but separated 
by gardens of trees and flowers. It has one of the best 
harbors on the coast — formerly leading New York in exports 
and imports. This harbor is guarded by Fortress Sumpter, 
and Moultrie, and is famous for being the place where the first 
gun was fired in the late war. Among the churches the most 



AROUND THE WORLD. 579 

noted is Saint Micheal's, built in 1752, and contains upon its 
walls the memorial tablets of many who lived before the war of 
the Revolution — even dating back as far as 1700, A. D. The 
tower, which is one hundred and eighty feet high, can be seen 
for a long distance from land and sea in approaching the city. 
In time of the war, while a battle was in progress, a bomb 
from the Federal army passed through the window in the 
char. eel, and falling to the floor exploded, causing much 
damage to the pews. 

A large number of colored people reside in Charleston. For 
more than twenty years the census has showed the colored 
population to be in excess of the whites. In 1880, the excess 
amounted to nearly two thousand. 

VISIT TO SAVANNAH. 

From Charleston we went to Savannah by rail, a distance of 
one hundred and fifteen miles. On this journey we had a 
fine view of the pine and cypress forests, rendered more 
picturesque by a growth of long gray moss, which hangs from 
the branches, sometimes to the length of several yards. Our 
visit was in the month of January, at the season when the 
climate is most delightful. The city is in a low marshy 
region, making it unhealthy in warm weather. The place is 
beautiful with sub-tropical vegetation trees and flowers, with 
which the parks and streets are shaded and ornamented. It 
has some elegant monuments. The one erected in Monterey 
Square to Pulaski, is fifty-five feet high, of marble, and sur- 
mounted by the statue of Liberty, and considered one of the 
most artistic in America. 

VOYAGE TO FLORIDA. 

We spent about two weeks at Savannah, and then took the 
steamer to Florida, by what is called the Sea Island route, 
through a series of channels lying in low lands thickly covered 
with reeds and bushes. Soon after dark the steamer ran upon 
a sand bar and remained there for several hours. The next 
morning we were in the midst of broad plains, forming a scene 
in striking contrast with the one on the way from Washing- 
ton to Richmond and Charleston. The stream is wider and 



580 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

the water brighter in approaching Florida, and in some 
places villages enliven its shoi\ s. After leaving the steamer 
we had two hours' ride by rail to Jacksonville, where we 
arrived in the evening, completing a journey of two hun- 
dred miles. 

JACKSONVILLE. 

No city in the south is so appropriate a winter resort as Jack- 
sonville. Our visit was in the month of February. At that 
time the place was thronged with visitors from the northern 
states, and even from England. Knowing that Florida is 
a very different place to different people, I observed to 
be able to judge for myself, and the result of my experience 
leads me to say that it is a good place for people who desire to 
enjoy the delights of a fine climate, and who are willing to 
labor for good homes on small capital. I was almost induced 
to buy for myself. Having seen so much of the world, I often 
meditated upon other lands and compared them with this, and 
as I sat upon the veranda I tried to analyze the attractions of 
Florida for me. There was a garden of flowers before me, and 
the trees were covered with long gray moss, hanging in festoons 
from the boughs ; there were opening buds and the perfume of 
flowers; and the sky was covered with fleecy clouds. Such 
scenes are common in other lands, but when 1 felt that I was 
breathing an atmosphere of life and buoyancy seldom exper- 
ienced, I thought that the advantages of Florida as a health 
resort can not well be over estimated. 

We met several individuals who had been living in Florida 
many years in the enjoyment of good health, who had been 
pronounced incurable by their physicians in other states, 
especially those afflicted with pulmonary disease. 

Jacksonville is not a place — as some larger cities — with the 
stir of business and scenes of active life which excite, the mind 
and weary the senses. The quiet is soothing, visitors yield to 
the influences of the place, and we see people of restless habits 
in the north, walking leisurely along the streets, and stopping 
to view the collections of shells and young alligators kept for 
sale in boxes on the sidewalk. Man} 7 people take some of 
these reptiles away with them as mementos of the place. A 



AROUND THE WORLD. 581 

lady who had purchased a young alligator took delight in 
watching it as it lay motionless in the sunshine on the window 
sill. One day when leaning over to admire it, suddenly it 
fastened so tightly on her wrist that it was removed with 
difficulty. 

One of the best views the city affords is along the St. John's 
river. I sometimes went to see this noble stream when the 
morning sun illumined its waters. In size and grandeur it far 
exceeds the Thames at London, or the Seine at Paris. It is 
navigable for steamers more than two hundred miles. Jack- 
sonville, situated on its banks twenty miles from the ocean, is 
the chief port of Florida. Many steamers leave this place for 
points farther up the river, and ferry boats cross to the opposite 
shore. We went across and dined with Governor Reed He 
has a beautiful home, surrounded by orange orchards, upon 
which he bestows much care and labor. 

THE JOURNEY CONTINUED TO NEW ORLEANS 

From Jacksonville we went to New Orleans, going by rail to 
Cedar Keys. Here we awaited the steamer over night. In 
the morning we visited the Eagle lead pencil factory and saw 
the Faber works, which are on the island opposite. The cedar 
groves, from which the pencils are made, are on the coast 
further to the north. The Faber and Eagle companies have 
the exclusive right to these forests. Our voyage across 
the Gulf of Mexico and up the Mississippi river to New Or- 
leans — a distance of four hundred miles — occupied almost 
two days. We arrived at New Orleans February twenty-fifth, 
where we remained two months. The scenes along the gulf 
and the river will be given in the next tour. 



582 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



SEVENTEENTH TOUR-NEW ORLEANS TO 
RUSSIA. 



CHAPTER I. 



Ocean Voyage to New York — Nearing the Coast of Flor- 
ida — In New York — Embarked for Russia — Fairly out 
at Sea — Meditations — Sunset on the North Sea. 

N April 25, 1883, after spending two months in New 
Hj/J Orleans, we took passage on the "Louisiana" for New 
York. We bid farewell to the southern metropolis, 
glad to escape the heat and dust of her crowded streets. The 
month of April is a charming season for a voyage on these 
waters. The levees barely confined the swollen Mississippi, 
which went sweeping on down to the gulf, winding its way 
among the fields — green with sugar cane and the dark rich 
foliage of the orange groves. As we gazed on this majestic 
stream, how touching, how significant the following lines 
appeared : 

"Onward rolls the royal river, proudly sweeping to the sea, 
Dark, and deep, and grand, forever wrapt in myth and mystery ; 
Like some huge monster sweeping onward through the plains, 
Seeking rest, but finding never, till the tropic gulf he gains." 

We passed magnificent mansions of wealthy planters, as also 
the humble cottages of their slaves, and large sugar refineries 
on either shore. Six hours after starting we reached the Gulf 
of Mexico. For miles I could trace the dark water from 
the river as it mingled with the waters of the gulf, and finally 
saw it terminating by a well defined line extending across the 
ship's path. While most of the passengers were in their state 
rooms sea-sick, we were able to take a walk on deck and enjoy 
the balmy air and golden sunshine. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 583 

The gong sounded and we went down to dinner. The table 
was spread with all the delicacies that our southern markets 
afford. The cabin was elegant, and our state rooms commo- 
dious and well furnished. We were as comfortable and as 
much at ease as though in a first class hotel. 

NEARING THE COAST OF FLORIDA. 

Two days after starting we reached the Southern coast of 
Florida. The trees, lights and houses upon the shores were 
visible. As we looked again upon the "Land of Flowers," 
pleasant memories of our visit to popular resorts brought 
afresh our experience in that delightful clime— the land 
which lends a new charm to life, and illuminates the face of 
the invalid with smiles of hope. The weather was warm, but 
not oppressive. The temperature of the water here is often as 
high as 80° fahrenheit. These waters are much famed for fine 
sea shells and coral. On the way we saw flying fish darting 
from the water and skimming above the waves for a little 
distance and again disappearing. As our vessel plowed its 
way onward to the north, we continued to approach the coast 
until we came in full view of Ocean Grove, Long Branch, and 
Elberon, where the immortal Garfield passed the closing scenes 
of life. Night had spread her mantle over the land as we 
entered the harbor of New York, but we enjoyed a fine view 
of the city, illuminated by the thousands of artificial lights. 
This voyage of sixteen hundred and seventy-five miles was 
made in six days. 

IN NEW YORK. 

Early next morning we enjoyed a ride upon the elevated 
railway, to Central Park. Among other wonders we enjoj^ed 
a view of Cleopatra's Needle — -that grand monument of 
antiquity. We had first seen this monument of historic 
interest on April 15, 1875, standing on the shore of the 
Mediterranean, at Alexandria, Egypt. We passed down Fifth 
Avenue and saw among the elegant brown stone buildings, 
the costly mansions of the Vanderbilts, one of which had 
recently been completed at a cost of one and a half million 
dollars. A ride down Broadway at mid-day left the impres- 



584 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

sion that but few streets of equal splendor can be seen in any 
of the great cities of the globe. Certainly but few can show 
more rapid growth, or greater investment of capital, or more 
spirit of active enterprise during the last ten }^ears. Buildings 
that were then considered large, now look small when com- 
pared with the more modern and massive structures run up 
ten or twelve stories high. 

We went to Brooklyn to obtain a pass to cross the suspension 
bridge, and felt well paid for our trouble as we walked across 
and studied the marvelous strength and skill blended in this 
unrivaled bridge which is more than one mile in length. 
The wire in the four great cables is of sufficient length to 
extend more than half the distance around the world. 

EMBARKED FOR RUSSIA. 

On the afternoon of the same day that we entered New York, 
Ave embarked on a fine Bremen steamer for Russia, to see the 
Cznr crowned. A heavy fog came on suddenly, and it was 
with much difficulty that we reached the lower bay, where we 
had to cast anchor for the night. Twelve other large steamers 
were detained by the fog. All night long the fog horn on 
shore sounded loud and shrill, and was answered by the blow- 
ing of the steamers and the ringing of bells. The rushing of 
the waters, the rocking of the steamer, and the loud sounding 
signals made this indeed a trying night to those not accus- 
tomed to sea voyages. When morning came the fog had passed 
away, the sea was calm, and the sun shone with beauty on 
the smooth water of the bay, where lay many fine steamers 
and sailing ships. Our anchor was soon lifted, and we were off 
on our long voyage of more than three thousand miles. 

FAIRLY OUT AT SEA. 

We remained on deck and watched the shore until it disap- 
peared behind the waves. We were now well out at sea. 
During a few of the first days of such voyages, an air of lone- 
liness seems to pervade all. The passengers are sea-sick, a few 
birds circle dreamily about the ship, the dark sea, with its 
rolling waves, stretches out around us, and the officers go their 
accustomed rounds. This is a time when uncertaint}^ seems 



AROUND THE WORLD. 585 

to hang over the future, and memory reviews with endearing 
recollections the friends at home, the scenes and events of the 
past. 

MEDI TATIONS. 

Our vessel was a fine well built steamer, from the navy yards 
on the Clyde, near Glasgow. More good sea-going vessels are 
launched from this port than from any other in the world. 
We felt ourselves fortunate in again escaping sea-sickness, and 
spent the hours in looking about the steamer, for this was now 
all the world to us. All that we could see, save the rolling 
waves of the deep dark ocean, was within the walls of our 
little floating world. To contemplate that only a few inches 
of oak plank and a little copper plating, separated us from the 
mighty deep whose angry billows have engulfed their millions, 
how narrow indeed seemed the limit between life and death ! 
True, we had eight life-boats on deck, conveniently hung for 
lowering, and they were of the most improved style, having 
air chambers hermetically sealed, and buoys all around the 
outer edge to bear them up; yet, even these, were but a warning 
that danger was constantly at hand. Our steamer was also 
provided with lightning rods attached to the masts and extend- 
ing down to the deck, where the ends could be turned into 
the water in case of a thunder-storm. But even this again 
stood as a signal that the elements of death were above us in 
the clouds, as well as below us in the sea. However, these precau- 
tions we welcomed, and with our past experience we felt about 
as secure in our little floating world, as in a palace upon the 
land. 

On this voyage we had no storms, but were tossed by cross 
currents and high seas. To illustrate what is meant by high 
seas, imagine a ship passing our steamer, with masts one 
hundred feet high, one moment you may see it from the top 
to the base, the next it may sink out of sight ; thus appear- 
ing and disappearing again and again. 

During a part of our voyage the atmosphere was warm and 
pleasant, at other times it seemed semi-tropical — the effect of 
the gulf stream. Our steamer made usually from two hun- 
dred and fifty to three hundred miles per day. On reaching 



586 TEN YEARS 7 TRAVEL 

longitude 34° 28', latitude 43° 48', we were told that we were 
in the middle of the Atlantic. The waves now lulled into a 
calm repose, and seemingly we had entered a haven of rest. 
How majestic, how terrific, how delightful is the ocean ; 
how infinite its changes, how endl:ss its varieties, who can 
describe it? The morning sun shone brilliantly on the 
water which now seemed hushed in calm repose. Onward our 
steamer went gliding over the sea in her queenly might. How 
marked the contrast, when the billows ran high with white 
crested waves, and in massive columns rushed together and 
receded like contending armies. 

The evening sun disappeared in clouds of crimson and gold, 
a few silvery gray masses caught up the glow, and a rainbow 
was visible in the east, forming a complete semi-circle on the 
clouds, and illuminating the water so as to almost complete the 
circle. It had been a day of delight when mere existence was 
a charm. We could lean over the bulwarks and watch the 
steamer's prow as she cut the jetty waters, dashing them into 
crystal cascades, which vanished mto snowy wreathes and 
sheets of dissolving foam. 

THE FIRST SIGHT OF LAND. 

Early on a bright morning, all were on deck to catch the 
first glimpse of the coast of England. We were soon to be 
brought into communication with the world from which w r e 
had been shut out. From Lizard's Point, the German steamers 
send their telegrams. Telegraphy is done on steamers by 
raising signal flags. Four floated from our main mast, and 
the colors of Germany were raised at the stern. The news 
then flashed over the wires to Bremen, and from thence to 
New York, that our voyage was almost ended. We no longer 
tried to keep count of the steamers and ships, for they were 
seen plowing the water in all directions. We looked with 
delight on Britannia's shore, whose flag has long held the 
supremacy of the seas. Over the waters of this channel have 
sailed some of the mightiest fleets of the world. Some 
magnificent ships, bearing their cargoes to England's marts of 
commerce, were seen around us. During the day w^e passed 



AROUND THE WORLD, 587 

Plymouth, Southampton, the Isle of Wight, and other places 
on the English coast. 

SUNSET ON THE NORTH SEA. 

Sunsets on the sea are often indescribably beautiful. Only 
those who have traveled, seeking and studying nature's beau- 
ties, know the grandeurs of such a scene. On the evening of 
which I speak, the declining sun shed a soft mellow light 
through the silvery haze which wiapt the shores, and lay in 
zones of varying shades along the horizon. As he descended, 
the view changed like a transformation ecene. The waters 
became more brilliant, and seemed lit up with a thousand 
glowing colors and changing hues. They rippled and sparkled 
as if dotted with myriads of diamonds and precious gems. 
Finallythe sun lost his brilliancy and became sbftened into 
a grand luminous disc, then droped beneath the purple seas. 

On a bright May morning we entered the harbor of Bremer- 
haven— a broad estuary at the mouth of the Weser. The 
entrance is guarded by three large forts. We passed many 
ships, and saw three Prussian Men of War go through their 
morning drill, taking the same positions and making the 
changes required in naval engagements. As the stream 
became narrow we could view the towns along the shores, 
and see the fields and gardens radiant with the bright 
verdure of spring. Our long voyage of more than five thous- 
and miles from New Orleans was now ended, and we stepped 
on land again. 



588 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



CHAPTER II. 

Difficulties of Travel in Germany — Bremen — Hamburg 
Items — Arrival at Lubeck — A Wonderful Clock — Across 
the Baltic Sea to Stockholm — At Abo on the Coast of 
Finland. 

TS; REMERHAVEN is the sea port of Bremen, but a few 
1 . .jj miles distant. Here large vessels stop, while smaller 
"^fr ones go up to the city. We went on the tiain to Bre- 
men in the evening. The American who travels in Germany 
has many difficulties with which to contend. Here the mile 
is equal to more than four English miles. Not only is the 
unit of measure different, but the language and money. 
Accounts are kept in Prussia in grochens, thalers, and marks. 
Twenty marks are equal to nearly five dollars. For even a 
native German scholar the language is difficult in northern 
Germany, being what is called the " Low Dutch'" — so named 
from the fact that much of the country is below the sea level. 
We were able to make ourselves understood so as not to be 
detained on the way. We had to pass the custom-house 
officers at Bremen, Hamburg, and Lubeck — places where we 
had to change for train or steamer. These are called the " Free 
Cities." Formerly each state in Germany had its own custom- 
houses, tariff and revenue laws, which frequently differed 
widely from those of the neighboring state. But finally an 
alliance was formed between the states of Germany, called the 
German Confederation, and afterward the Consolidation of the 
Empire. 

B R E M E K . 

Bremen is second only to Hamburg as a seat of German 
commerce. The greater number of passengers emigrating tc 
the United States embark at this port. It is built on both 



AROUND THE WORLD. 589 

sides of the Weser. It was formerly strongly fortified, but the 
ramparts and bastions around the old town have been demol- 
ished, and the ground upon which they were erected dedicated 
to the use of public gardens, with rivulets and avenues. It is 
a charming place. 

TheEsculus — commonly called the Buckeye — is used to shade 
and ornament the streets. At the time of our visit we saw these 
trees in full bloom, and they were indeed beautiful. The 
principal public buildings in Bremen are the Cathedral— built 
in 1160 —and the Town Hall. 

HAMBURG. 

From Bremen we continued our journey by rail to Ham- 
burg where we arrived in three hours. This was my third 
visit to this city. Hamburg is situated on the river Elbe, 
seventy-five miles from its mouth. It is the first commercial 
port in Germany, and as many vessels can be seen in its 
harbor as at any city in the world. The city is situated on 
several small islands, and portions of it are truly magnificent. 
The walls and fortifications have been converted into broad 
avenues and gardens, extending almost around the ancient 
city. We made this circuit in a street car, and enjoyed the 
view, relieved by spring's beauties, everywhere awakening into 
life. Parks, gardens, tombs and monuments are to be seen in 
every direction. We went to the great church Nicolas, having 
a spire four hundred and sixty-five feet high. Here we were 
piesent at a marriage ceremony. The bride was in white, 
attended by four brides-maids in pale blue. At the church of 
St. Peter — built in the twelfth century — we again happened to 
be present at a marriage ceremony. This time the brides-maids 
wore pink. 

We were at the Zoological Gardens in the morning and saw 
the great beasts take breakfast. In their eagerness they made 
the place resound with their howls and ravings. This is 
reported to be the best Zoological Garden in the world. 

ARRIVAL AT LUBECK. 

Two hours by rail from Hamburg brought us to Lubeck, 
making a journey from Bremen of about three hundred miles 



590 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

through the northern part of Germany. Lubeck is one of the 
most ancient cities of Germany. It was a place of importance 
when St. Petersburg was founded, and was formerly surrounded 
by walls and bastions, since leveled to give place to public 
walks and gardens. Thus with many cities since the dawn 
of civilization, the force of the soldier and the sword has 
given place to that force within men which responds to a 
goverment of laws, rather than walls. 

Four of the ancient gateways still remain. Many of the 
buildings are highly picturesque in appearance, lavishly decor- 
ated, and have high roofs with gable ends. 

A WONDERFUL CLOCK. 

The Marien church contains some very fine paintings and 
sculptures. It has a remarkable astronomical clock standing 
before the altar. This was made in the fourteenth century, 
and is still going. It indicates the time of day by the hour, 
minute, and second as an ordinary time piece; also the day 
of the week, and the day of the month ; it shows the signs of 
the Zodiac, and points out the position of the earth, moon 
and planets among the constellations. It is said that the 
man whose ingenuity constructed this piece of machinery had 
his eyes put out by the king to prevent him from making one 
like it for some other person. 

ACROSS THE BALTIC SEA TO STOCKHOLM. 

From Lubeck we sailed for Stockholm, a distance of five 
hundred miles across the Baltic Sea. The next day we reached 
Sweden and went on shore at Karlskarona, an ancient and 
picturesque town , with a strongly fortified harbor. At Stock- 
holm we spent one day. This city is justly called the " Venice 
of the North. It is located on a group of islands, with broad 
channels of clear water flowing through its streets. We went 
to the church where the sovereigns of Sweden are crowned. 
The coronation chair is kept there. It is richly ornamented 
with gold and surmounted by the crown of Sweden, which is 
set with many precious gems. In another church we saw the 
tombs of the kings and other royal dead, upon which wealth 
has been lavished with a liberal hand. We visited the royal 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



591 



palace and passed through all the apartments, except those 
occupied at that time by the royal family. In the museum 
we saw the garnered wealth which has shone upon the sover- 
eigns of Sweden from the earliest period of her history to the 




sxrniT-iEaiszE: iztr the aectic eseks-xoilts- 

present time — the coronation robes, crowns, jewels, court 
costumes, and many things of rare value that had belonged to 
the kings and queens of that country. 



592 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



AT ABO, ON THE COAST OF FINLAND. 

From Stockholm we had a most delightful voyage to Abo 
on the coast of Finland — a distance of two hundred and fifty 
miles. It was about the time of the long days in June, and 
twilight lingered until eleven o'clock in the evening. The 
reflection upon the water was enchanting, heightened by the 
varied scenes among the islands along the course taken by the 
steamer. Abo is situated in 60° north latitude — the highest 
point north reached in my travels. Abo is the chief port on 
the Gulf of Bothnia. It is one of the places visited by 
tourists who go north in the summer season to the " Land of 
the mid-night sun." The illustration on the preceding page 
shows the first appearance of the sun after the long Arctic 
night, which is twenty-four hours long at the Arctic circle, 
and grows longer as we approach the pole. 

We made a journey through Finland of about five hundred 
Russian miles — less than so many English miles — and reached 
St. Petersburg, where we passed the night previous to our 
journey to Moscow. Early in the morning we were on the 
train, crowded with passengers going to the coronation fetes. 
Along the route the people were actively engaged in putting up 
decorations for the coming festival. The stations were guarded 
with troops in showy uniform. The scene became 'more 
enlivened as we approached the city. A ride of twenty-four 
hours brought us to the end of our journey. 



AROUJSD THE WORLD. 593 



EIGHTEENTH TOUR-RUSSIA 



CHAPTER I 



Moscow — Passport System — Securing Seats for the Fetes 
— Commencement of the Fetes — Coronation Day- — The 
Imperial Party in Procession — Opening Coronation Cer- 
emonies — The Crown — A Historic Diamond — The Thrones 
Closing Ceremonies — Grand Illumination of Moscow at 
Night. 



OSCOW is the ancient capital of Russia, and formerly 




^H^ hundred miles south-east of St. Petersburg, in a 
fertile and highly cultivated district, on the Moskva river. 
Its population is a little more than six hundred thousand. 
The most conspicuous object is the white walls of the Kremlin. 
This is the fortification or acropolis of the city — founded in 
the twelfth century. It forms a triangle about ten miles in 
extent. It occupies the highest portion of the city, and was 
formerly surrounded by a moat, which has since been filled 
up and its space used for gardens. From this belt of verdure, 
rise the walls of the Kremlin with massive gateways and 
lofty towers. In this castle, is located a whole galaxy of won- 
ders, each historically interesting. There are churches, the 
Imperial Palace, and the Arsenal. From description it is 
impossible for the mind to conceive a just idea of the marvel- 
ous wealth of these buildings, and once seen, the beholder is 
dazzled and bewildered. We hastened to the Kremlin, and 
standing by the great historic bell, we viewed the enchanting 
scene. It was from this spot, ten years before, that I received 
my first impression of Oriental life — a scene that has so often 
been revived in memory, and to which no comparison has 



594 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

been found in other cities that I have seen, except Damascus 
and Delhi, India. This city, with its gardens and lakelets, 
stretches far away. The Moskva river flows through its 
midst. Cathedrals, mountains, convents and churches, are 
seen on every hand, with their high towers and domes of green 
and red glittering with gold. The city in its gayest holiday 
attire, was all alive in expectation of the visit of the Czar. 
The crowded thoroughfares displayed the peculiar costumes 
and faces of many eastern people. 

PASSPORT SYSTEM. 

We went to a hotel on one of the principal streets near the 
Kremlin. Our passport was called for, and we were carefully 
interviewed as to the object of our visit to the city. After a 
private talk over the passport by the police, it was returned 
with word they could not receive it until we had consulted the 
governor of Moscow and obtained a permit to remain. In this 
we found no difficulty, having met Prince Dolgorouki on a 
former visit to Moscow. His seal was affixed to the document 
with leave to remain six months in Russia without renewing 
the passport. Each time we changed our residence the passport 
was taken and recorded by the police, and a charge of a few 
copecks made — sometimes to the amount of twenty-five cents. 

SECURING SEATS FOR THE FETES. 

We called upon the United States Consul, Mr. Van Riper, 
who received us cordially; and we were glad to see him, for, 
from the lime of our landing in Europe, we had met but four 
persons who could speak English. As for German and French, 
we were quite at home; but when we found only Low Dutch, 
Danish, Swedish, Finnish, or Russian, it was not always easy 
to make our wants known. To aid us in securing tickets, Mr. 
Van Riper gave us his card of introduction, stating that we 
were authors and representatives of the press from America. 
This we took to the governor's palace, but he was at the 
Kremlin. We then went to one master of ceremonies after 
another, until the right one was found, who spoke German. 
He took the consul's card, but told us to write a letter, stating 



AROUND THE WORLD. 595 

what we desired, and to return to-morrow. Complying with the 
request, we were told to call again the next day. In the mean 
time we found the American minister, Hon. W. H. Hunt, with 
his family, enjoying splendid apartments. He afterward told 
us that his expenses here were twice his salary from the United 
States government. He kindly gave us a letter of introduc- 
tion bearing his official seal, requesting for us all the privileges 
and opportunities that could be granted. We handed it to the 
count, who promised to give us an answer. The next day, the 
good word was, " Come to-morrow and you shall have your 
tickets." We did not fail to secure them. The Russian min- 
ister sent us word that as their guests, we should have seats 
among the representatives of the press. 

COMMENCEMENT OF THE FETES. 

The entrance of the imperial party from Moscow was from 
Petrosky Park — four and a half miles from the city. The 
whole route was gaily decorated with flags and banners. The 
windows, doors, and balconies were draped with bright colored 
material. 

The thundering cannon and the pealing bells announced the 
approach of the pi'ocession. The Czar was preceded by his 
escort, consisting of the three squadrons of Circassians and 
Cossacks in scarlet uniform, and one squadron of dragoons in 
dark green. Then followed the deputies of Asiatic tribes, in 
picturesque costumes on richly comparisoned horses. The 
court dignitaries were in carriages, with their attendants in 
splendid costumes, trimmed with heavy gold brocade. The 
emperor was mounted on a beautiful snow-white horse, and 
dressed in the dark green uniform of a Russian general. His 
personal escort was, two squadrons of cuirassiers, with eagle 
crested helmets and shining coats of mail. This scene passed 
through the gaily decorated street but to give place to another 
of still greater brilliancy — the Czarina, in a magnificently 
carved state coach, drawn by four pairs of cream colored horses, 
her escort, a group of nobles and princes, and her companions 
the grand ladies of the empire and those of foreign powers. 
Then came another squadron of cuirassiers, troops of lancers, 



596 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

and masters of ceremonies. Their majesties dismounted near 
the Kremlin to pay their vows to the celebrated Icon — an 
image of the Siberian Madonna. The priests claim that it 
possesses miraculous healing powers, and value it at five 
million roubles.* No Russian passes this shrine without stop- 
ping to cross himself, or entering to kiss the Icon, light a taper, 
or drop a coin in the box. This tribute amounts annually to 
about four hundred thousand roubles. Their majesties entered 
through the gate of the Savior into the Kremlin. Te Deums 
were sung in the principal cathedrals for their safe arrival. 
Upon entering the palace, bells were rung and cannon fired. 

CORONATION DAY. 

Early in the morning a salvo of twenty-one guns was 
fired. The bells of the cathedrals of the Assumption, in 
which the coronation was to take place, and those of other 
churches in the city, were rung. Nowhere do bells ring, 
and chime, and resound, as the3 r do in Moscow. The guards 
of honor and masters of ceremonies surrounded the church of 
the Assumption and the palace of the Czar. Those appointed 
to take part in the ceremonies, arrived one after another, and 
took their place in the church. There were the court digni- 
taries, and those bearing high titles from other sovereigns and 
chief powers, wearing the brilliant court costumes of the 
countries they represented — England, France, Germany, Den- 
mark, Sweden, the United States, Austria, Hungary, Spain, 
Italy, Turkey, Persia, Kiva, Bokhara, China, Japan, and other 
Eastern lands. 

THE IMPERIAL PARTY IN PROCESSION. 

At nine o'clock, the signal was given by trumpets and 
cymbals, and the imperial cortege was seen descending the 
grand stairway of the palace. In advance were chevalier 
guards, followed by about fifty imperial pages, and the mayors 
of the chief Russian towns, the administrators of finance, 
commerce, masters of ceremonies and heralds, in their tabards 
of gold cloth. The imperial regalia was borne on cushions of 
velvet by the Czar's generals. Next, and just preceding 



A rouble is equal 10 about eighty cents. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 597 

their majesties, came the marshals of the court, and the 
grand marshal of the coronation. The Czar was attended by 
his high titled relatives, and followed by the ministers of 
different departments of state. The Czarina, in her shining- 
robe of silver cloth, was attended by four ladies and a train of 
maids of honor. Sixteen generals — aids de camp — held up 
the poles of the canopy tiiat was carried over the Czar and 
Czarina, and the cords were held by sixteen other generals. 
The high nobles walking three abreast, and the chevalier 
guards, terminated the procession. The canopy was itself an 
ornate structure of gold brocade lined with white silk, and 
borne on gilt poles from which descended streaming cords and 
tassels of gold bullion, and was surmounted at the four angles 
by plumes of black, yellow and white ostrich feathers. From 
the days of Ivan, "The Terrible," the Czars have been crowned 
in the church of the Assumpton, but perhaps its walls never 
contained an assemblage more brilliant, or a more costly array, 
than at this coronation. 

OPENING CORONATION CEREMONIES. 

The flight of steps leading to the throne dais, which stood 
beneath the great dome of the church, was guarded by officers 
in brilliant uniform and with drawn swords. The Czar and 
Czarina, after bowing before the altar and kissing the images, 
were received by the high priest. The Czar made profession 
of faith and read the creed of the Greek church. Then, assisted 
by his two brothers, he arrayed himself in the coronation 
robes, which were presented to him on two rich velvet 
cushions. The gorgeous imperial mantles are of cloth of gold 
bordered by ermine. One of the priests then crossed his 
hands on the Czar's head and said a prayer. The prelate 
of Novgorod presented the crown to the Czar, which he 
himself put on his head. He then took the scepter in his 
right hand and the globe of empire in his left, and seated 
himself on the throne. 

THE CROWN, A HISTORIC DIAMOND. 

His crown was of gold, encircled with diamonds and sur- 
mounted by a large ruby, supported by eleven great diamonds 



598 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

rising in an arch. In the top of the scepter glittered the great 
Orloff — one of the greatest diamonds in existence. It is known 
to be over four thousand years old. It was once the eye of an 
idol at Delhi in India, and is said to have been purloined from 
that place by a French soldier who pretended conversion to 
that religion, and being appointed priest, watched his oppor- 
tunity to steal the eye and escape. He sold it to the Czar of 
Russia for four hundred and fifty thousand dollars an income- 
of twenty thousand dollars a year and a patent of nobility. 

THE THRONES. 

The throne of the Czar came from Persia in 1660, and is 
set with eight hundred and seventy-six diamonds, twelve 
hundred and twenty-three rubies, besides many turquoises and 
pearls! The throne of the Czarina is the celebrated carved 
ivory throne upon which Alexander II. was crowned. It was 
brought from Constantinople by Empress Sophia in 1472. 

CLOSING CEREMONIES. 

The Czar knelt in prayer, then rose and remained stand- 
ing without his crown, while the priests and the congregation 
bowed in prayer. The holy annointing then followed. Then 
the Czar took off his crown and touched it to the head of the 
Czarina, who was kneeling before him on a velvet cushion. He 
afterwards placed upon her head her own crown, which is 
surmounted by a sapphire of great value. The Czarina was 
then robed in the mantle of gold and ermine and the collar of 
St. Andrew. The coronet of the Czarina contains more than 
one hundred large diamonds, and is the mOst beautiful cluster 
ever brought together in a single ornament. The necklace is 
composed of twenty-two large diamonds, from which fifteen 
pendent gems are supported. Arrayed in their imperial robes 
and bearing the ccepter and the globe of empire, their majesties 
passed out of the cathedral and to the palace, followed by a 
brilliant retinue, amidst the thundering of cannon, the ringing 
of bells, and the joyful acclamations of the vast assemblage of 
people. It was a picture never to fade from my mind ; but 
only an imperfect impression can be given by tongue or pen. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 599 



GRAND ILLUMINATION OF MOSCOW AT NIGHT. 

The city was a vast series of illuminations, surpassingly 
grand. The palaces, towers, domes, crosses — everything per- 
taining to the Kremlin were ablaze with light, as if resplendent 
with millions of gems of many colors. Crosses, rings, crowns, 
lyres — figures of every kind, gleamed in the darkness, resting 
apparently upon the air. The Tower Ivan Vilike, was lit by 
electricity. The ri/er presented a splendid picture. Lights 
reflected from the water in various designs, such as crosses, 
arches and wreaths. Variously colored lights in the Kremlin 
were arranged so as to reflect upon the water and upon the 
golden dome of the grand cathedral of San Savior. The 
gardens around the Kremlin were lighted with all the taste 
imaginable. Lights — like great gems — were suspended among 
the green foliage, and arching the avenues. These displays 
were kept up during each evening of the entire week. 



600 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



CHAPTER II. 

The Imperial Party in Procession for the Opera — Scenes 
at the Kremlin — A Visit to the Palace of the Czars — 
Bells of Moscow — Czars Feast for the People — A Shrine 
of Marvelous Wealth. 

N one night during the festival, the Imperial party 
attended the opera, assembling early in the evening. 
On this occasion we had a good view of the procession 
with their splendid carriages and black horses. We scarcely 
knew which to admire the most, the black horses of Russia, or 
the fleet white steeds which we had seen in Arabia and Syria. 
As the Czar passed along the streets on his way to the opera, 
the people threw up their hats and cheered enthusiastically. 
The imperial guards were ver}^ numerous, and went dashing 
about in every direction. Conspicuous among them were those 
in open droskys, having burnished helmets with a silver eagle 
with outspread wings, on the top. Circassian guards were in 
both infantry and cavalry. The Cossacks were mounted on 
their horses and took their stand in front — a daring looking 
company of men, fully equipped for deadly work. On each 
saddle was fastened a pair of holsters and a carbine. On the 
right side of the rider hung a saber, and in his belt a poinard 
and a pistol; in nis right hand he carried a long spear. When 
the opera closed, the grand facade was illuminated in the most 
artistic manner, excelling even all former illuminations. 

SCENES AT THE HORREWLIN 

The Czar and Czarina, went out, calling on the foreign princes 
who were in the different parts of the Kremlin. I went early 
to the Kremlin to take a walk on that historic ground. I 
visited four great churches where is to be seen more gold, 
silver, and precious stones than can be sound in the same 



AROl M) TUK WORLD. 601 

compass in any other country in the world. While at the 
Kremlin, I saw crowds of poor deluded people kissing the 
golden images, and bowing down to the relics of some saint. 

A stir among the people at the door announced the arrival 
of the grand Metropolite of Moscow — chief of the Greek 
church — who is held as a sacred person. His carriage was 
drawn by four black horses. He was clad in a long robe, 
rimless hat and veil. When he alighted, the people rushed 
around him to kiss his hand, which he extended right and 
left as he entered the church. My attention was suddenly 
called to a footman in court livery, coming around from the 
palace. He had a red waist-coat, a black coat bordered with 
gold lace, white neck tie, and cap more of gold and plumes 
than anything else. The plumes were of yellow, black, and 
white — the imperial colors of Russia. Some distance behind, 
came a lady in a drosky, with two horses and one coachman. 
In a moment rose the cry, u The Czarina!" from a crpwd who 
rushed toward her, carrying me with them. She passed, 
bowing to the people, and soon after entered the palace. The 
Czar came out, stepped into the carriage, and was driven aw r ay, 
lifting his cap to the crowds that shouted as he passed. 

A VISIT TO THE PALACE OF THE CZARS. 

When we were at Moscow the first time, we visited the 
palace of the Czars, and examined at our leisure its great 
splmdor and the wealth it contained. We walked from room 
to room over polished floors, and viewed the walls covered 
with the richest silks, its golden furniture, and beds spread with 
eider down quilts and satin covers. The drawing room of the 
Czar and Czarina is lined with white satin with gold mouldings. 
The hall of St. Andrew, where the throne of the Czar stands, 
is in light blue silk. The gorgeous hall of St. George is lighted 
by four thousand five hundred candles. The state drawing 
room is hung with green brocade, and the state bed rooms with 
white brocade ; the mantle pieces are of jasper. The Gold Court 
is where Metropolites and Patriarchs of the Greek church are 
installed. The hall of St. Vladimar, hung with black and red 
silk, is the one that the Czar leaves to descend the beautiful 
stairway on the day of coronation. Napoleon ascended this 



602 TEK YEARS' TRAVEL 

stairway and entered the same hall when he took possession of 
Moscow. 

The Treasury of the Kremlin contains the jewels, thrones, 
crowns, robes, and imperial emblems, which have been used at 
coronations, and on important state occasions, during the 
whole period of Russian history. To describe even in outline 
all that is contained in the treasury would only surfeit the 
mind with ideas of gorgeousness and grandeur. 

A VISIT TO THE CATHEDRALS OF THE KREMLIN. 

A few days after the coronation ceremonies, we visited the 
cathedrals of the Kremlin. Three of the principal ones are 
consecrated to the functions of the crown. In one of them 
the Czars are baptized and married; in another they are 
crowned, and in a third they are buried. In the cathedral of 
the Assumption, where the Czars are crowned, the Iconastis, 
or screen, for the sacred pictures, contains a painting said to be 
the work of St. Luke, and that on one important occasion it 
was endowed with miraculous power. The jewels with which 
it is adorned are valued at two hundred thousand dollars, the 
emerald alone being worth fifty thousand. To the right of 
the Iconostis, is a venerable silver shrine of great value, and 
behind the altar, a casket, which contains the image of the 
Savior in pure gold. A Bible, presented by the mother of 
Peter the Great, is kept in this church, and weighs one hun- 
dred pounds, and is starred with emeralds and other gems. 
The whole of the interior, from the pavement to the domes, is 
richly inlaid with paintings and ornamental work. This 
cathedral is surmounted by a cluster of golden domes, which 
can be seen afar off, glittering in the sunshine like a glowing 
constellation. The other cathedrals are in some respect 
equally gorgeous and brilliant with golden domes. 

Moscow contains four hundred and thirty churches, the 
grandeur of which is unsurpassed by the wealthiest of other 
lands in the east. 

BELLS OF MOSCOW. 

In the Kremlin is the tower of Ivan the Great, more than 
three hundreGl feet in height. It contains the famous bell of 



AROUND THE WORLD. 603 

Moscow, and the sweet toned silver bells. Moscow has always 
been noted for its bells. Before the fire in 1812, it had seven- 
teen hundred large belle. One called the '"Giant" was broken 
by falling from its support. It was re-cast in 1654, and was so 
large that it required twenty-four men to ring it. Its weight 
was one hundred and forty-four tons. It fell again at the time 
of the fire in 1706, and was bioken into fragments, which were 
used, with additional material, in 1732, to cast the " King of 
Bells." This bell fell during the lire of 1737, at which time a 
piece was broken from it which has never been replaced. At 
the time of the fall it was deeply imbedded in the ground, 
where it remained until 1836, when the Emperor Nicholas 
caused it to be taken up and placed on a platform of masonry, 
where it stands at present, and where I have often seen it. 
This bell is estimated to weigh two hundred and twenty-two 
tons, and is twenty-six feet high, and measures sixty-seven 
feet around its margin. Its value in metal alcne is said to be 
three hundred thousand dollars. 

CZAR'S FEAST FOR THE PEOPLE. 

On the seventh day after the coronation, according to the 
custom in Russia, the Czar gave a feast to the people. This 
took place at Petrosky Park — a place of historic interest. In 
the park is a chateau, which has been occupied by the rulers 
of Russia at different periods. It is also the place to which 
Napoleon returned after he left Moscow in flames; and the 
place from which the imperial party made their grand entry 
into Moscow, previous to the coronation. 

Early in the morning, the streets were crowded with people 
moving in the direction of the park. We went out in a drosky. 
Bordering on the park is a vast plain called Hodynskoe Pole, 
where the Russian troops are reviewed on state occasions. 
Here the fete took place. We presented our tickets and were 
conducted to seats among the correspondents of the press. 
Along the side of the plain next to the park, low sheds had 
been erected, between which the people entered and received 
from officers stationed there, little baskets of bread, meat, pies, 
and sweetmeats. In each basket was a porcelain cup, stamped 
with the imperial court of arms — a gift from the Czar. 



604 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

A line artistic pavilion had been erected for the imperial 
party. It is estimated that one million people assembled on 
the plains in front of the pavilion to wait for the approach of 
the Czar. At ten o'clock he came — the autocrat of all the 
Russias ; the ruler of one hundred million people, whose sway 
extends from the amber-yielding Baltic to the ice-bound shores 
of Behring Straits, and from the eternal snows of the Arctic 
to the genial climes of the Black and Caspian seas. Long and 
loud was the shout of joy that arose from that people. 

When the imperial party withdrew, the vast multitude 
dispersed to various places of amusement. Soon the crowd 
gathered on the opposite side of the plain where one hundred 
freight cars were standing along the railway, a few yards apart. 
On going there we found that the cars contained barrels of beer 
and cider. The people, with their cups in their hands, were 
struggling for the drink. Many of them whose cups were 
either lost or broken, took off their hats and caps and had 
them filled. They continued to drink until they were unable 
to walk. The scene can better be imagined than described. 
The fete closed with fire-works at night. 

A SHRINE OF MARVELOUS WEALTH, 

The imperial party paid a vist to the monaster}' of Troitsa, 
forty-five miles from Moscow. This is the richest shrine in 
Russia. It was founded as a fortress in 1342, by St. Sergius. 
It contains within its walls ten churches. The shrine of St. 
Sergius is wrought in pure silver, and weighs nearly one 
thousand pounds. In the same cathedral with the shrine, is a 
bas-relief of the Last Supper, in which all the figures are of pure 
gold, except that of Judas, who is of brass. As often as 
Moscow has been taken and plundered, this convent has never 
fallen into the hands of an enemy. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 805 



CHAPTER III. 

The Imperial Party at St. Petersburg — Items of St. 
Petersburg — St. Isaacs — Russian Worship — Worship in 
the Greek Church — Marriage Ceremonies — Winter 
Palace. 

RETURNING to St. Petersburg, we were present to witness 
¥|n| the visit of the imperial party to that place on the tenth 
^Sf\| of June. Grand preparations were made for their 
reception. The principal buildings and the streets were gaily 
decorated, and the streets along which the procession passed 
were lined with guards in bright uniform. The imperial 
party arrived at noon, ai»d went from the railway station to 
the cathedral of Kazan. This church is a splendid piece of 
architecture, and cost six hundred thousand roubles. It con- 
tains the image of the virgin brought from Kazan, which is 
covered with gold and precious stones, costing about seventy 
thousand dollars. 

A special service was given for the Czar and Czarina, partici- 
pated in by six arch-bishops and thirteen bishops of the Greek 
church. These were all clad in long robes of gold cloth and • 
mitres brilliant with sparkling gems. The ceremonies were 
very imposing. 

From the church, the imperial party went to the palace, 
where a banquet was served, and in the afternoon they left for 
Peterhof. 

ST. PETERSBURG. 

This was our third visit to St. Petersburg, where we spent 
in all four months. The city is beautifully located on the 
Neva river, which divides into several channels, forming- 
islands. Many of these are the residences of princes, who 



606 TEX YEARS' TRAVEL 

have embellished them with all the decorations of art and 
fancy. 

The streets and sidewalks of the city are broad and well 
paved with Nicholson pavement, and are unsurpassed by any 
city in Europe. The houses are massive structures, with 
plastered and stuccoed walls, stained yellow or blue. The 
floors are of hard wood, highly polished and not carpeted, but 
often spread with rugs made from the furs of the wild animals 
with which that country abounds. The stoves are of mason 
work, and often extend to the ceiling, and are covered by 
encaustic tiles, and quite ornamental. The houses are built 
with reference to the severe climate, the walls, doors, and 
windows all being double, with an intervening space of about 
two feet. The houses are kept so warm, and the temperature 
so e/en. that flowers bloom in them all winter. 

ST. ISAAC'S. 

St. Petersburg contains St. Isaac's — one of the great cathe- 
drals of Europe. It is built upo» a whole forest of piles, 
twenty-one feet in length, sunk into the ground. The 
building has four grand entrances, with broad flights of steps, 
and lofty columns. More than one hundred of these columns 
are sixty feet high, and seven feet in diameter — each, a grand 
round monolith, adorned with Corinthian capitals of bronze. 
The great dome is covered with copper, overlaid with gold — 
one hundred and eighty-five pounds being used to gild the 
dome, besides that used on the cross. 

The church has seven large doors of bronze. The columns 
for the screen are of malachite, thirty feet high, and the pillars 
are of lapis lazuli, and are valued at sixty thousand dollars. 
These grand pillars are tubes of cast iron, upon which these 
precious stones have been laid in Mosaic. 

As the churches in Italy are rich in marble, paintings, and 
mosaics, so the churches and palaces of Russia abound in 
precious stones, brilliants, malachite and lapis lazuli. The 
Iconostis at St. Isaac's, has four columns of malachite, thirty 
feet high, and two of lapis lazuli, which cost thirty thousand 
dollars. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 607 

The richest mines of malachite are in Siberia, and are the 
property of the Russian prince, Demidof. The value of the 
malachite used in the construction of St. Isaac's, is said to be 
one million roubles. The great dome which crowns the 
cathedral is nearly three hundred feet high, and is sur- 
mounted by a golden cross, and supported by thirty pillars ol 
polished granite. Four smaller cupolas, constructed on the 
same plan, surround this central dome, which is reached by 
five hundred and thirty steps. We made the ascent on a 
bright summer day, and enjoyed the charming panoramic 
view, unfolded like a map beneath us. The broad Neva- 
dotted with green islands — rolled its limpid waters between 
banks adorned with palaces, the homes of princes. There was 
the great city with its broad streets and whirl of busy life, and 
all around us, rising above other buildings, were the domes of 
many churches, brilliant with bright colors and glittering 
with crosses. 

RUSSIAN WORSHIP. 

Perhaps in no country are church festivals and religious 
ceremonies more carefully observed than in Russia. More 
than half the days in the year are days of fasting and humil- 
iation. (One would suppose, on hearing how r many days are 
devoted to fasting, that people who fast so much should live 
cheaply, but he is astonished when the board bill is presented.) 
They pray often, and pay great respect to sacred places and 
things. Salva Voga — " Glory to God " — is a phrase frequently 
on the lips of Russians. It is the spirit which adorns the 
land with fane and altar. . 

WORSHIP IN THE GREEK CHURCH. 

The form of worship in the Greco-Russian church is very 
interesting. The priests .wear the gown and cowl — a peculiar 
covering for the head, shaped like a high narrow band box, 
draped in a piece of black cashmere which drops down the 
back like a heavy veil. There are no pews in Russian 
churches, and the worshipers go round from one chapel or 
shrine to another. 1 have seen them kiss the images and bow 
before them many times, until their heads touched the floor. 



608 TEN \EARS' TRAVEL 

This sense of devotion does not lift the ordinary Russian 
mind above temptation and vice. We have a good illustration 
of this in the case of a woman who went into a church in St. 
Petersburg. It was observed that she remained bowing before 
an image and kissing it repeatedly. She was looked upon as 
a very devout woman, but when she left, it was observed that 
she had extracted from the crown of the saint a gem of great 
value, and had escaped with it. 

Among the peculiarities of the Greek church, is one which 
permits only married priests to perform the ordinary rights of 
the church, as marriage, burial, confession and baptism, while 
the Holy Synod — the highest court of the church — consists 
of monks who were never married. No > oung deacon can 
secure a church until he has obtained a bride. 

MARRIAOE CEREMONIES. 

In the patriarchal form of life — still holding sway in some 
parts of Russia — the marriage custom is peculiar. The patri- 
arch or father, goes to the professors or fortune tellers, acting 
as agent for the girls, who leave with them a list of what they 
have — so many Russian tea urns, so much linen and house- 
hold stuff. These lists are read by the patriarch, and thus the 
match is made, without the consent, and sometimes without 
the previous acquaintance of the parties to be married. Mar- 
riage among the Russians is poetically called the " Coronation 
of the parties," whose lives are thus sacredly united. The cere- 
mony is long and intricate when a marriage is consummated 
according to the usual Russian form. 

On the twenty-second of June — a day sacred to St. Nicholas 
— the peasant women come to the city dressed in new suits of 
bright colored prints, and the men with their best outfits. 
They meet before one of the churches, then go to a park called 
the "Summer Garden," where a festival is given by the Czarina 
for the benefit of the poor of the city. The fine avenues, with 
the overhanging trees, are hung with lanterns and glass globe 
illuminations at night. Decorations are made of flags and 
banners of national colors. The peasants arrange themselves 
in rows along the central avenue. The women, each accom- 
panied by a lady friend, stand on one side; on the opposite 



AtiOiyD THE WORLD. 609 

side the men arrange in like manner. Talking back and forth 
for a short lime— at longest but a few hours — the men select 
their wives, or the women — who are equally privileged — may 
make proposals, either through a friend or relative by whom 
they are accompanied. If accepted, they step out of the ranks 
at once and go off together to some church, where, when a 
number of couples have arrived, a priest performs the ceremony 
for all at once. I have seen as many as thirty couple married 
at one time. After marriage, they go home to celebrate their 
wedding with festivities and merriment. 

THE WINTER PALACE. 

The imperial palace — called the Winter Palace — is the largest 
royal abode in Europe. No other court presents such a bril- 
liant appearance as that of Russia when seen in the Winter 
Palace. The arrangements are on the most sumptuous scale. 
One of the halls is converted into a garden of delightful verdure 
by the introduction of exotic plants and fruit trees. The most 
elegant and glittering apartment is the drawing-room of the 
Czarina, the walls and ceilings of which are richly gilded. The 
palace, called the Hermitage, contains a valuable collection of 
art. Through its halls I have ofen walked and viewed the 
master-pieces of great artists. 



610 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



NINETEENTH TOUR-ENGLAND. 



CHAPTER I 



Departure for England — The Thames — London — Under- 
ground Railways — The British Museum — The Largest 
Library in the World — Westminster Abbey — St. Paul's. 

IH N June 17, 1883, we left St. Petersburg for England. The 
point of departure was Cronstadt, which we reached by 
steamer on the Gulf of Finland. From Cronstadt we 
sailed on an English steamer, and had a delightful voyage of 
thirteen hundred miles in six days — from the Gulf of Finland 
through the channels between Denmark, Sweden, and Norway, 
across the North Sea to Hull. At Hull we remained one week. 
This is one of the chief sea ports of England. From Hull Ave 
went by steamer to London — a distance of three hundred 
miles. We reached the mouth of the Thames early in the 
morning on the first of July. Sailing up to the city, we had a 
good view of the shores. 

THE THAMES. 

The River Thames is one hundred and ten miles in length, 
and is navigable for large sea-going vessels to London, situated 
sixty miles from its mouth. Its width at London, is from eight 
hundred to fifteen hundred feet, while at its entrance to the 
sea, it is seven miles wide. The tide rises to about fifteen miles 
above London bridge. The mean range at London is seventeen 
feet, and the highest about twenty -two feet. 

The port of London has five thousand sea-going vessels, 
including steamers, of about two and a half million tons 
burden, besides a fleet of three hundred and fifty fishing 
smacks. Each year, about twenty thousand foreign vessels are 



AROUND THE WORLD. 611 

entered at this port, and about sixty thousand from all parts 
of the kingdom. 

The Thames is spanned by some of the most substantial 
bridges in the world, and around each hangs a history. A 
little more than one hundred years ago, the only bridge across 
the Thames was the old London bridge. In the reign of Queen 
Elizabeth, it was adorned with houses having gardens and 
arbors, so that " As fine as London Bridge " passed into a 
proverb. The river traffic above this bridge is limited to small 
vecsels. The present bridge was opened in 1831. It has a 
carriage-way fifty-two feet wide. Morp than twenty thousand 
carts, carriages, and other vehicles, cross this bridge each 
twenty-four hours, besides over one hundred thousand foot- 
men. 

Below this bridge are the famous London Docks. The 
largest of these is the West India Dock, covering a space of 
three hundred acres, and affording anchorage for many large 
vessels. Near this is the East India Dock, containing thirty- 
two acres. Millwall Dock and Victoria Dock, contain about 
two hundred acres each. In Millwall Docks the "Great 
Eastern " was built. Further down the river are other large 
docks, in which lie at safe anchor the steamers and ships that 
carry the wonderful volume of trade of London. 

LONDON. 

Passing the docks we landed near London Bridge, and soon 
found a home in this metropolis — the largest city in the world. 
We never cease to be impressed with its vastness. The great 
forest of masts rising from the Thames, the wilderness of 
steeples, and the rushing tide of life that flows through the 
streets, will long be remembered. Day after day we fell into 
this tide and visited and re-visited all the principal places of 
interest, during a year spent in the city. Here, four and one 
half millions of people live and engage in the various occupa- 
tions of life. Thousands of people rise in the morning not 
knowing where they are going to get a meal that day, or where 
they will sleep the next night. 

The old city, or London proper, is comparatively small — 
only about two hundred and thirty acres containing a popu- 



612 TEN YEARS 1 TRAVEL 

lation of seventy-five thousand. It is said that about seventy 
thousand vehicles, and nearly a million people enter and leave 
this area daily. 

UNDERGROUND RAILWAYS. 

London has few tram-ways, but many cabs, omnibuses, and 
underground railways. These latter are like the ordinary rail- 
way, except they are under ground in a tunnel. The stations 
are entered by steps which lead down to them. The cars are 
ivell lighted and run with great rapidity. There are about 
seven hundred and fifty miles of railway under the city, run- 
ning in all directions, even beneath the great business houses 
and fine mansions. 

BRITISH MUSEUM. 

As we resided near the British Museum, Ave often visited that 
place. ' Here may be seen many monuments of antiquity, art 
and genius. Greece, Ital}*, Rome, Syria, Nineveh — all have 
contributed of their treasures of art to replenish the museum. 
From Nineveh— so long buried — are statues of kings, queens, 
warriors, priests, colossal lions, and winged bulls, of marvelous 
execution. From Babylon is a gate taken from the wall of the 
city, dating back to 850 B. C. 

LARGEST LIBRARY IN THE WORLD. 

The Reading Room is a mine of intellectual wealth. It 
contains more than one and a half million volumes. We were 
told that it took twenty years to arrange and print the cata- 
logues of the books. This is the largest library in the world. 
It contains over twenty-five miles of book shelves. The desk 
of the chief librarian is directly under the center of the domej 
while his assistants sit near him. The various divisions, con- 
taining tables for the readers, radiate from the center like the 
spokes of a great wheel. 

WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 

Standing by the Houses of Parliament, is the grand old 
cathedral, around which so many sacred memories cluster. 
Here lie England's illustrious dead — crowned heads, philoso- 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



61J 




■ ': ■ ■ 




614 TEX YEARS' TRAVEL 

phers, sages, poets, artists, and warriors — whose monuments 
have been dimmed by the mould of ages. 

Some of the recent dead are David Livingston, Dean Stanley, 
and Sir Charles Lyell. I have listened- to some of Stanley's 
sermons in the Abbe} 7 , and attended the funeral of Lyell, the 
geologist, in 1875. The vault was sunk through the floor. 
After the coffin was let down, the excavation was filled with 
masonry and a tablet set in the floor. 

Every Sabbath afternoon, the best choral service in the city 
is held at the Abbey. The sovereigns of England are crowned 
there, and the coronation chairs are kept there. They are 
noted for their antiquity and their associations. They are of 
carved oak ; the newest was made at the coronation of William 
and Mary. The first was brought from Scotland, and contains 
the famous stone upon which the sovereigns of Scotland were 
crowned. 

At the coronation of Edward I. history states that handsome 
presents were made to the people — not car loads of beer, as in 
Russia — but five hundred horses were let loose in the crowd to 
be taken by any one who choose to make the effort. 

Westminster Abbey occupies the site of Apollo's Temple. 
The first Christian church was built here in 610. Here, in 
1502, Henry VII. built a most magnificent chapel — often 
styled " The Miracle of the World." The length is four hun- 
dred and sixteen feet, the width is two hundred and three 
feet. Its height is one hundred and one feet. Its towers are 
two hundred and twenty-five feet high. 

ST. PAUL'S. 

This is the most imposing and magnificent specimen of 
architecture in the city. It is the fifth church occupying 
the same spot, and over which ages have rolled. Formerly 
on this site, a temple of Diana stood. The first building 
was destroyed in the time of William the Conquerer; the 
second in the great fire of 1666. Upon approaching London 
from any direction, the first thing that attracts the eye is the 
dome of St. Paul's. The cathedral was built in thirty-five 
years, under the direction of one architect, one master mason, 
and one bishon, at a cost of seven and a half million dollars. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 6L5 

This amount was raised by a small tax on coal. The archi- 
tect — Sir Christopher Wren — lived to the age of ninety years. 
It was his delight in his old age to be carried twice a year to 
look at his noble work, his monument and tomb. The ground 
plan is that of a Latin cross, five hundred and lift}* feet long. 
The height to the top of the cross is three hundred and seventy 
feet. It is surmounted by an immense dome, at the bottom of 
which is the celebrated Whispering Gallery, in which the 
slightest whisper can be heard audibly throughout the whole 
extent. The geometrical staircase has one hundred and ten 
steps The clock goes eight days, and strikes a bell which can 
be heard twenty miles away. The new bell, called "Great 
Paul," strikes daily at one and at four p. m. It was set up in 
1882, at a cost of sixteen thousand two hundred and fifty 
dollars. 

St. Paul's contains numerous marble statues of England's 
heroes. The funeral car of Wellington is in the crypt, also the 
tomb of Nelson, whose body lies in a coffin made from the 
mast of the Orient, presented to him after the battle of the Nile. 
It would require days to view with careful study all the mon- 
uments in St. Paul's, and to trace out all the varied historical 
associations of each. The footsteps of history are everywhere 
to be seen. 



616 TEX YEARS' TRAVEL 



CHAPTER II. 

The Tower of London — Crowns and Jewels — British Par- 
liament — Opening of Parliaivient — Bank of England. 

|iT different times we visited the Tower, which stands on 
the bank of the Thames in the eastern part of the city. 
It is surrounded by a stone wall, with a deep ditch 
outside. The earliest history of the Tower dates back to 1066, 
when William the Conqueror built a fortress on the site of 
one that had been destroyed, supposed to have been erected by 
•Julius Csesar. This fortress was the residence of the sovereigns 
of England until the time of Elizabeth. Since that time, it 
has been used as a place of security for the regalia, the arms 
and stores belonging to the crown. It includes about twelve 
acres within the walls, and resembles a town. It contains 
arms and accoutrements for more than one hundred thousand 
men, and has weapons of both ancient and modern warfare, 
used in many quarters of the globe. In the Horse Armory is 
a collection ot ancient armor in complete suits, on wooden 
figures of men and horses. Leaving these implements of 
warfare, we passed into the inner yard of the Tower, and 
walking over the the green grass, we came to a stone slab laid 
in the ground — a place of execution. Upon this I stood and 
listened to the guard relate sad tales of victims who had 
perished there. Lady Jane Grey, and the unfortunate Annie 
Boleyn, were beheaded there. 

CROWNS AND JEWELS. 

In the Jewel Tower, we saw the crown jewels and regalia, 
valued at twenty million dollars. They are under glass and 
surrounded by iron grating and kept under guard. They 
consist of four crowns, the Queen's diadem, the staff and orb, 



AROUND THE WORLD. 617 

five scepters, the sword of mercy, two s words of justice, and 
many other pieces. Queen Victoria's crown is of purple velvet, 
enclosed in hoops of silver, surmounted by a ball and cross, 
all of which are resplendent with diamonds. In the center of 
the cross is a valuable sapphire and a pear-shaped ruby. 

The Prince of WaJes' crown is of pure gold unadorned with 
jewels. 

The great Koh-i-noor, or "Mountain of Light" — one of the 
largest diamonds in the world — is kept here. 

BRITISH PARLIAMENT. 

We- attended a sitting of the House of Lords, and heard Lord 
Granville, Shaftsbur} r , and many other distinguished speakers. 

The House of Lords is a magnificent chamber, richly gilded 
and ornamented with wrought metal and carved wood. The 
throne of her majesty is at one end — a grand ornate structure 
— and on each side are seats for the Prince and Princess of 
Wales. The seat, called the Woolsack, is just in front of the 
throne. On this the Lord Chancellor, who represents the 
Queen, sits. He wears a black gown, and the largest wig in 
the house. The Woolsack is covered with crimson. The 
Parliament Buildings comprise a whole group — the House of 
Lords, Commons, and Royal State Apartments, besides five 
hundred other apartments, courts and offices, covering an area 
of eight acres. Its architecture is Gothic — the finest in the 
world. The Queen is present only at the opening of Parlia- 
ment. On different occasions I have seen the Queen and the 
Prince and Princess of Wales, also other members of the royal 
family. 

OPENING OF PARLAIMENT. 

We were in London at the opening of Parliament, and 
through the courtesy of the American Minister, Mr. Lowell, 
we had the privilege of attending. We were admitted at the 
Peer's entrance, and passing through the long halls ornamented 
with carved wood-work and paintings, and lighted through 
richly staine'd glass, we entered the House of Lords. I was the 
first of the eighty-five ladies who took their seats, which were 
usually occupied by the Peers and Peereses. I sat within a 



618 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

few feet of the throne, and had a good view of the whole 
proceedings. The chair in the center, for the sovereign, is 
overlaid with gold. The coat of arms of the United King- 
dom, is worked on the inside of the back, in gold, and the chair 
is surmounted by a golden crown. On the right is the Prince 
of Wales' dhair, bearing his emblem — ostrich feathers worked 
in silver. The chair of the Princess is on the left. The seats 
in the House of Lords are covered with crimson Morocco, and 
both the seats and the backs are comfortable as well as elegant. 
The railing arOund the gallery is richly gilded and ornamented. 
The windows are of stained glass. 

The first to enter on this occasion, were three bishops. 
Their costumes consisted of a long surplice and a square cap. 
The Archbishop of Canterbury — who is called the primate of all 
England and metropolitan — is the first peer of England, and 
next to royal blood. It is his duty to crown the sovereign. 
The barristers came next in their long black gowns and great 
white wigs of horse hair. The gentleman usher of the Black 
Rod preceded the Lord Chancellor, or keeper of the great seal, 
who opens the Parliament in absence of the sovereign. The 
; ' Black Rod'' is a highly polished staff, black as ebony, and 
encircled at each end and in the center by a band of gold. 
The sargeant of the mace carried the -mace — one of the emblems 
of royaky, which is a large gold staff wrought in different 
designs, and surmounted by a crown. Walking behind the 
sargeant of the mace, was the Lord Chancellor, keeper of the 
great seal. The Lord Chancellor took his s # eat on the Wool- 
sack, in front of the throne, and the two chamberlains of the 
royal household took seats on either side of him. The mace 
and the great seal were laid in front of the Chancellor. The 
five Chancellors were in robes of crimson, white, and black, 
bordered with ermine, and black high hats with rolled brims,. 
All, on entering, bowed to the throne, or chair of state. The 
clerk of Parliament read official letters with great royal seals 
attached. The usher of the Black Rod retired to call the 
Commons, which he did as follows : Proceeding to the Lower 
House, he gave three raps with the rod at the door, which 
was immediately opened. He then advanced to the bar and 
made a bow to the members. Then proceeding a few steps 



AROUND THE WORLD. 619 

further, he bowed a second time, and then a third time, saying : 
"Gentlemen of the House of Commons, the Lord Chancellor 
commands this honorable House to attend him immediately 
in the House of Peers." He then withdrew, retiring backwards 
and bowing. The Commons came and stood just inside 
the doors of the House of Lords. After they had bowed three 
times, which was returned by the Chancellors, the Queen's 
speech was read by the Lord Chancellor, who remained seated 
with his hat on The reading required ten minutes. The 
ceremony was over in less than an hour. A strict guard was 
kept lest some of the crowd should enter without tickets 
from the proper authority. 

During another stay in London, I attended the closing of the 
Parliament, with Mrs. MacLaren — the wife of a member from 
Edinburg. 

THE BANK OF ENGLAND. 

This bank occupies a fine structure, of Corinthian style, in 
Threadneedle Street — sometimes written "Threeneedle Street." 
It resembles the Temple of the Sybil, at Tivoli, Italy. This 
bank is the richest in the world, having in circulation notes to 
the amount of fifteen million pounds sterling. It was estab- 
lished in 1691. The registration of the bank notes is so J3erfect, 
that any note paid into the bank in the last five years can be 
obtained in a moment or two, with information as to the 
channel through which the note reached the bank, although 
the register contains seventy-seven millions of notes packed 
away in fourteen thousand five hundred boxes. These notes, 
if stitched together end to end, would extend twelve thousand 
five hundred miles, or more than halfway around the world. 
This establishment gives employment to about one thousand 
clerks. 

A military force has been statioued in the bank every night 
for the last hundred vears. 



620 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



CHAPTER III. 

Crystal Palace — Bunyan's Tomb — Temperance Lectures — 
Jottings on Tours in England — Falls of Lodore — Visit 
to Iron and Steel Works — Descent into a Salt Mine. 

V'ffllE Crystal Palace used for the World's Fair, was erected 
f/vX i Q 1851. The structure was one thousand eight hun- 
^p dred and fifty-one feet in length, and covered an area 
of twenty-one acres. It was built chiefly of glass and iron. 
The magnitude of the building, together with the exhibition, 
attracted world-wide attention, and during the first exhibition 
it was visited by more than six million people. 

In 1854, a permanent building of a similar character, in 
which much of the material of the former building was used, 
was erected at Sydenham, eight miles from London. Its cost 
was above seven million dollars. It is situated in beautiful 
and extensive grounds, and occupies a prominence giving a 
commanding view of the surrounding country. The grounds 
are beautifully laid out and arranged with trees and playing 
fountains, and nothing can be more delightful than a walk 
about this palace on a fine summer day. Many kinds of 
games for sport and amusement are continually being carried 
on here, and it is not unusual for from sixty to seventy thou- 
sand persons to visit it in a single day. The trains of two 
lines of railways run to and from this palace almost every 
quarter of a hour. 

On the fourth of July, we attended a fete at the Crystal 
Palace. In the evening the bombardment of Gibralter was 
represented by a grand display of fire-works. The fountains 
were illuminated by colored lights making the scene one of 
surpassing grandeur. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



621 



BUNYAN'S TOMB. 

We visited the burial place of the renowned Bunyan. The 
place is called " Bunhill Fields." The monument of John 
Bunyan is almost in the center of the cemetery. It is a white 
marble figure upon a high tomb. Near to Bunyan, lie three 
members of the Cromwell family. Just beyond, is buried 
Susannah, the mother of John and Charles Wesley. Her last 
request was, "Children, when I am dead sing a psalm of praise 
to God." 




Dr. Watts, the author of so many well known hymns, is 
also buried in this place. Near to this cemetery is the house 
of John Wesley, the founder of Methodism. He is buried 
behind the Wesleyan Chapel, where he preached so long. Not 
far from Bunhill Fields, is the Friends' meeting house and old 
burial place, where George Fox, the founder of the Society of 
Friends, is buried. 



622 TEX YEARS' TRAVEL 



TEMPERANCE LECTURES. 

Soon after reaching London on this tour, I gave myself to 
the temperance work. In the beginning of m}' lectures I had 
the valuable assistance and influence cf Mrs. Margaret B. 
Lucas, sister of the Right Honorable John Bright, and Pres- 
ident of the British Women's Temperance Association. She 
was present at some of niy lectures in London, and afterwards 
presided and spoke at twelve meetings in chief cities, at which 
I was one of the principal speakers. 

I also formed the acquaintance of Mrs. Margaret E. Parker 
— founder and first President of the British Women's Tem- 
perance Association, and one of the most efficient workers in 
the temperance cause in the British Isles. She arranged for 
me to address a number of societies at their annual meetings. 
At some of these she presided and gave the openirg address. 
I was afterwards a guest at her delightful home. 

Rev. Mr. Baxter, editor and publisher of the Christian 
Herald, on learning of my lectures in En land and America, 
published my biography and gave kindly notices in his paper. 
The confidence manifested by these parties, and their sympathy 
with the work, proved of invaluable service in opening the 
way for extensive labor, and I was employed by various 
societies and churches of different denominations, traveling, 
in all, about twenty-live hundred miles in England, and deliv- 
ering over one hundred lectures. 

During the time I was engaged in the temperance work, I 
attended a temperance fete at th^ Crystal Palace at Sydenham. 
This was attended by sixty thousand people, and choral con- 
certs were given by fifteen thousand young abstainers — five 
thousand standing up and singing at a time. The temperance 
workers in Great Britain have grown to a grand army, but 
the liquor traffic still prevails to an alarming extent. 

JOTTINGS ON TOURS IN ENGLAND. 

I can not attempt to take the reader over the route of all my 
tours in England, nor describe all that is really grand and 
interesting, for my space forbids. I must therefore content 
myself with a few brief notes. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 623 

Among the many charming places that I visited, is White 
Haven, located near the Irish Sea, about three hundred miles 
from London. It is an important sea port, and dates back 
to the tenth century. 

A drive of ten miles from White Haven brought us to Calder 
Abbey, founded in 1134, and destroyed by Cromwell. This 
magnificent ruin stands on the bank of the River Calder, in a 
deeply secluded vale, sheltered by majestic forest trees. The 
lofty pointed arches, the transepts and massive tower, bespeak 
the grandeur and wealth of the Abbey in its daj^. It was a 
branch of Furness Monastery, now a magnificent ruin on the 
coast forty-six miles south of White Haven. To this place I 
also made a visit. This is one of the ruins of interest visited 
by the tourist — a place which has furnished many a theme for 
the historian, the poet, and the lover of the romantic and the 
beautiful. 

I made a tour through what is known as the Lake Region, 
which lies in the north-western part of England. A number 
of small, clear water lakes, are interepersed like gems among 
the mountains of" this section. Beautiful water-falls are seen 
tumbling over precipices, six of the chief of which range from 
sixty to one hundred and fifty feet in height. 

While the mountains of England will not bear comparison 
in height with the gigantic peaks of those on the American 
continent, the altitude of some is sufficiently great to retain 
snow the most of the year. The verdure and forests of yew, 
fir, pine, and larch, of the lower ranges are in marked contrast 
with the bare, gray peaks. The greatest altitude of these 
mountains is that reached by Sea Fell Pike — three thousand 
one hundred and sixty-six feet. 

A VISIT TO THE FALLS OF LODORE. 

While in this neighborhood I visited the- Falls of Lodore. 
When in my early school days I recited with my class-mates 
the poem of Southey, " How the water comes down at Lodore." 
I little thought then that I should one day visit this wonderful 
cascade — that I should bathe my hands in its waters and climb 
among the towering cliffs of the wild ravine. But I now felt 
it a happy delight to ascend from height to height over the 



624 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

rocks — worn smooth in places by the feet of tourists — and 
then to stand upon the moss-covered edges, and to walk out 
upon the table rocks which hang over the dashing torrent. 
No wonder the mind of the great poet so feasted upon the 
scene, and with heaven-born genius painted it in such graphic 
characters that it has continued to live in song. 

The scene around the falls is of a wild, rocky, picturesque 
character. Beautiful cascades are formed by the water rushing 
over a number of large boulders, thrown together in apparent 
wild confusion. On each side of the stream rise immense 
cliffs, dotted with forest trees. 

The Lake Region has been the home of a number of poets. 
Near Lodore, Southey lived for fifty years previous to his death. 
In other sections, lived Wordsworth, Coleridge, and at times 
Sir Walter Scott. In all my travels I have seldom seen a more 
romantic and pleasing locality, and one better fitted to awaken 
into liveliest thought the mind of the poet and the lover of 
the romantic. 

VISIT TO IRON AND STEEL WORKS. 

At Workington, I went through the iron and steel works, 
where there are immense blasting furnaces. In the rolling 
mills I saw the metal drawn out into rails for railroads, and 
steel sheets for plating steamers and vessels. When the 
molten mass was being changed from the caldrons into tubs, I 
beheld showers of sparks flying off into scintellations, equaling 
in beauty and grandeur an exhibition of fire-works. 

Near Birmingham, I visited the iron works of Harper & Co. 
Here I saw the native ore thrown into the great furnaces, 
melted and drawn off a glowing mass, and carried into the 
shops where three hundred person's were employed in the 
manufacture of two thousand different articles. 

DESCENT INTO A SALT MINE. 

At Northwich, I visited the salt mines. Taking my position, 
with two other ladies and a guide, in the drop — a kind of deep 
tub — we descended the shaft to the depth of three hundred 
feet. On the way our light became accidentally extinguished, 
and down we went in utter darkness, with our tub grating 



AROUND THE WORLD. 625 

fearfully against the sides of the opening. When we reached 
the bottom we found ourselves in a spacious chamber, cut in 
the rock salt, with its walls sparkling in the glare of torch- 
lights. From this chamber, broad and lofty archways with 
massive supports, radiated in all directions. We spent some 
hours examining and studying these subterranean marvels, 
and traveled two or three miles in our rounds. There is 
always an even temperature of 65° fahrenheit. The work of 
mining is clean, but not light. Many a hard blow with heavy 
hammers and iron rods, have to be given to bring the salt 
from its native bed ; even blasting has to be employed. Where 
pools of water collect, the salt forms into beautiful crystals. 
We obtained some very fine specimens — some transparent, and 
others red, purple and orange. 

I can only give space to add that I visited Liverpool, Man- 
chester, Birmingham, New Castle on Tyne, Mansfield and 
other important places. On various tours since, 1871, I have 
made repeated journeys through England, and at all seasons of 
the year it seemed to me one of the most lovely lands in 
northern climes. The high state of cultivation of its fields, 
the beauty of its woodlands, the elegance of its buildings, and 
the almost perpetual spring-like appearance, constantly presents 
to the eye a charming picture. 



626 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



TWENTIETH TOUR-LONDON TO NEW 
ORLEANS. 



CHAPTER I 



Object in Returning to my Native Land — Fifth Voyage 
Across the Atlantic — Missionary Service on Board of 
Ship — Tossed Upon the Seas — Two Sabbaths on the Ocean 
— Landing in New York — The International Electrical 
Exhibition — Continuing the Journey — A Quiet Retreat. 



4. 



FTER making our home in London for one } r ear, we set 
sail for America. My object in returning to my native 
P* land at this time, was to assist in the publication of 
work. Some publishers in England and various parts 
of the United States, were desiring to secure the work, and 
I was about entering into arrangements with parties in 
England for its publication, when a number of circumstances 
combined, induced me to put it into the hands of my present 
publisher. One among the inducements, and one which has 
proved a source of delight to me, was the privilege of having 
the work published and of spending my time near my old dear 
home — the place where the early years of my life were spent — 
and I now feel that I have just cause for gratitude because of 
the impressions which led me to this choice. 

FIFTH VOYAGE ACROSS THE ATLANTIC. 

We sailed on one of the fine steamers of the National Line, 
on July 3, 1884. This was my fifth voyage across the Atlantic. 
As I took a last leave of the world's metropolis — the city of 
such vast proportions, so mighty, so mysterious, so sublime — 
grand old London — I truly felt that I was leaving a place 



AROUND THE WORLD. 627 

endeared to my heart by many interesting associations. True 
some feel that life in a great city is dreary and dull, but to me, 
London has many attractions, many pleasures, and many 
advantages. 

As our vessel moved on in its course along the southern 
coast of England, we passed Dover, Southampton, and the 
Isle of Wignt. On the second day, we arrived at Plymouth, 
where we stopped for a few hours to receive other passengers 
and more cargo. Plymouth has a fine harbor, and is one of 
the chief ports of England. It is memorable in histoiy as the 
place where the Pilgrim Fathers set out upon their voyage for 
America. 

MISSIONARY SERVICE ON BOARD OF SHIP. 

Before we left Plymouth, a missionary came on board and 
held a short service for the passengers. He took for his theme 
the appropriate text, " Be strong and of good courage ; be not 
afraid, neither be thou dismayed, for the Lord thy God is with 
thee whithersoever thou goest." 

TOSSED UPON THE SEAS. 

After a few hours' stay at Plymouth, our vessel was again 
moving onward at good speed, and in a little while, the emerald 
waters of the English Channel were left behind and the deep 
blue ocean rolled around us. We were soon rocked and tossed 
by cross currents. Out of two hundred and fifty passengers, 
the usual number were sea-sick. A few squalls came on, but 
no storm. Some days the water became quite calm, the air 
was balmy, and the scene from the deck was very delightful, yet 
there were those who sat in dread, with their eyes closed for 
hours, for fear — as they said — of seeing the "great black yawn- 
ing sea," like some people who close their eyes to all that is 
beautiful in life about them and dream only of trouble and 
disappointment. I have been on the ocean for more than one 
hundred days at a time, and not one day has passed but I have 
seen something new, beautiful, or grand — something to admire 
and enjoy; something that has impressed me more and more 
with the wonders of nature and lifted my soul still nearer to 
nature's God. 



628 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



TWO SA.BBATHS ON THE OCEAN. 

During our voyage there were two sabbaths, at which time 
services were held morning and evening, to which all were 
invited. At these services our captain officiated. It is a 
very rare thing to find a captain with such deep religious 
spirit, and capable of conducting devotional exercises. In all 
my travels on the water I have never before witnessed any 
thing like it. The chief stewart was also a man of remarkable 
religious convictions, and well versed in Scripture. 

LANDING IN NEW YORK. 

Our voyage was ended in fourteen days, and we anchored in 
the harbor at New York. The "America" — a steamer on the 
same line — but a* few days before we left London, had made 
the quickest time on record between New York and Liverpool 
— six days, fourteen hours, and twenty minues. 

On reaching New York, we were pleased to find the temper- 
ature moderate, for the sun was not pouring down his fervid 
heat with the degree usual in the month of July. As we 
landed, one large steamer was just leaving the pier, with its 
great load of passengers waving adieu to their friends on shore. 
How often I have witnessed such partings. What feelings, 
what deep anxieties crowd in upon the mind at an hour like 
this. Of all the partings of loved ones in life, none are calcu- 
lated to awaken deeper emotions than a parting that is long to 
separate b\ r wide deep seas. The experience of such a moment 
may have its counterpart in the joys of meeting again, where 
land and home have been made dear by years of happy 
associations. After spending one week in New York, we went 
to Philadelphia ; here we remained until the twentieth of 
September. 

ELECTRICAL. EXHIBITION. 

On the second of September, the first International Electrical 
Exhibition in America, was opened in Philadelphia, under the 
auspices of the Franklin Institute. The waiting room of the 
Pennsylvania depot — in which members, representatives and 
friends of the Exhibition assembled — was tastefully decorated 



AROUND THE WORLD. 629 

with shields and flags of many nations. The platform, from 
which an address was to be delivered, was almost hidden from 
sight by circling banks of flowers and tropical plants. Fes- 
tooned flags, evergreens and grouped bannerets, were arranged 
about the columns which supported a conical roof of hand- 
some and costly banners from leading nations. This room 
was connected with the main exhibition building by a bridge 
which extended over the street. Fine music was given by the 
orchestra. The mayor th<. n gave an address of welcome, after 
which the procession formed and marched into the main 
exhibition building. Here choice music was given and prayer 
offered. The opening address was then delivered by the 
President of the Franklin Institute. He said that near this 
spot, Dr. Benjamin Franklin brought electricity down from the 
clouds, and proved that it was identical with the electricity 
obtained by experiments in his laboratory. 

Governor Pattison of Pennsylvania was next introduced, 
and on rising, was greeted with prolonged cheers. He is a 
gifted speaker, and his address was highly interesting. When, 
at the close of his remarks, he announced: "The exhibition 
is now open,'' a message of greeting flashed over the wire, 
almost at his elbow, and beneath three thousand miles of 
ocean, to Paris, where the first International Exhibition was 
held. The machinery was then put in motion and the vast 
assembly dispersed to view the various objects on exhibition. 

The building is an imposing structure. Its seating capacity 
is six thousand five hundred, while an audience uf ten thou- 
sand can assemble within its walls. 

The illumination was exceedingly fine, without doubt 
surpassing anj^thing on record. Altogether, there were five 
thousand six hundred incandescent lamps, and three hundred 
and fifty arc lights. To produce this flood of light, and to 
keep in motion the vast machinery, seven powerful engines — 
having a combined capacity of one thousand and eight hun- 
dred horse power — was used. One of these engines, the Porter 
Allen, had a belt thirty inches wide, which run at the rate of 
nearly a mile per minute. 

One of the greatest attractions of the exhibition was Edison's 
light house, containing two thousand six hundred lights of 



630 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

various colors, and set in a column twenty-six feet high, in 
spiral lines from top to bottom, and so arranged as to give an 
alternation of colors each minute. 

In the center of the building was a magnificent fountain, in 
the form of a basin, thirty feet in diameter. The border of 
this fountain was set with moss, flowers, and tropical plants, 
and from it were thrown twelve jets of water. Brilliant 
effects were produced b3* the many colored lights which cast 
their shades upon the water. The scene was one of surpass- 
ing beauty. 

In the exhibition there were displayed over fifteen hundred 
different applications of the electrical force. Musical instru- 
ments were played by it, a train of cars was propelled, and 
sewing machines were run by it. Printing was also done by 
electricity, and it was applied in dentistry, in spinning, in 
weaving, in hatching chickens, and in many other things. 

We had the pleasure of being introduced to Mr. Edison and 
his daughter, and enjoyed their explanations of his remarkable 
inventions. Edison's great dynamo — the largest ever con- 
structed — supplied one thousand five hundred lights, each 
equal to sixteen and one half gas lights. 

CONTINUING THE JOURNEY. 

On the twentieth of September, we started for West Milton, 
Ohio — a distance of about six hundred miles. On the waj' we 
had a delightful journey across the Alleghany Mountains, over 
the route described in a former tour. We arrived at our place 
of destination on September twenty -second. With but little 
exception I remained here until June 1, 1885, devoting my 
time to the interest of my publications. 

A QUIET RETREAT. 

West Milton is a prosperous town, beautifully located in a 
charming section of the Miami Valley, in Miami county, Ohio. 
It is girt upon the east by wooded hills, and is well surrounded 
by tranquil vales. The Stillwater river, with its beautiful 
cascades and its lovely glens, flows in peaceful rhythm by the 
town. Cool and rapid spiings, in profusion, burst forth from 
hill-side and glen. Elegant farm houses, highly cultivated 



AROUND THE WORLD. 631 

fields, and beautiful woodlands, add to the beauty of the 
surrounding country. It is said that the name was given in 
memory of the English poet, John Milton, who spent his 
earlier days amid the scenes of a quiet village near London. 
Here he gathered the knowledge and caught the inspiration 
which in after years immortalized his name. The natural 
charms of West Milton and the surrounding country, can but 
inspire the soul and awaken the best thoughts of the writer, 
and may yet make this a literary center. Here the Morning 
Star Publishing Company have established their business, and 
from this point are sending out a number of periodicals and 
other publications, and if prosperity shall attend their efforts 2 , 
a marked influence for the intellectual and moral good of the 
community will be realized. To me, this has been a place of 
quiet sacred retreat after the many years of my long weary 
journeyings. 



632 TEX YEARS' TRAVEL 



CHAPTER II. 

Beginning of a Tour in the South — A Stage Drive — 
Arrival at Mammoth Cave— Entering the Cave — Awed 
by Subterranean Wonders — The Rotunda — The Metho- 
dist Church — The Giant's Coffin — Strange Illusions in 
Star Chamber — Gothic Chapel — Bridal Altar — Side- 
Saddle Pit — Bottomless Pit. 

N April 11, 1885, I left West Milton for a tour in the 
South, and to attend the World's Exposition at New 
Orleans. I purchased my ticket over the Louisville & 
Nashville railway, that I might include in this tour a visit to 
the Mammoth Cave, Kentucky. Early in the morning we 
reached Cave City, a station on the railroad, ten miles distant 
from the cave. From this place visitors are conveyed by stage. 
From two to three thousand persons annually visit this 
remarkable wonder of nature, but this year the number has 
been about doubled, owing to the fact that many have visited 
it on their way to the Exposition. 

A STAGE DRIVE. 

At half past seven in the morning, the stage was loaded with 
passengers and we were on our way to the cave. For three 
hours we went jostling along over a rough and stony road. 
Our speed was slow, but we took advantage of this to view the 
country along the way. The geological formation of this 
section is a loose limestone rock. The locality of a number of 
caves was pointed out to us as we passed along. Some of these 
are quite extensive and highly interesting, while others are 
comparatively unimportant. Others have been but little 
explored and their extent is unknown. It is claimed that 
nearly five hundred caves have been discovered in Edmonson 
County, of which the Mammoth Cave is the most extensive, 



AROUND THE WOULD. 633 

in fact it is the largest known cave in the world, and contains 
abont two hundred miles of caverns. According to the report 
of the State Geologist, the aggregate length of the caverns in 
this section is one hundred thousand miles. 

The porous nature of the rocks, and the numerous sinks 
which communicate vvith caverns beneath the surface, permit 
the water to sink away rapidly. It has been estimated that 
these sink-holes average one hundred to the square mile in 
this section. 

On our way to the Mammoth Cave, we met several stages 
well loaded with passengers, returning to the station. They 
had gone over the day before and spent the night at the cave. 
The fare for the round trip is three dollars. 

ARRIVAL AT MAMMOTH CAVE. 

At ten and a half o'clock we arrived at the Cave Hotel, which 
is connected with a series of curiously constructed buildings, 
arranged in the form of the letter L. The whole series of 
these buildings is six hundred feet in length, with a wide 
veranda extending entirely along one side. In front of these 
stands a more modern structure, in which are the various 
offices and parlors of the manager of Mammoth Cave and 
grounds. A gymnastic dress, close fitting cap and a cane, are 
furnished each visitor who desires them, while in the cave, for 
which a liberal fee is charged. The many avenues of the cave 
are divided into different routes, and the visitor is charged a 
fee according to the one he desires to take. Two of these are 
designated by the Long Route and the Short Route, the fees 
for which are, respectively, three and two dollars. The 
services of a guide, with lamps and preparations for illumin- 
ating the chambers and places of special interest along the 
route, are included in these prices. At ®ne time the cave 
property embraced two hundred acres, and was valued at forty 
dollars; at present, it embraces two thousand acres, and is 
valued at one hundred and fifty thousand dollars. 

ENTERING THE CAVE. 

From the hotel we passed through the garden and down 

into a wild rocky ravine, for a distance of about three hundred 

so 



634 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

yards, to the entrance of the cave. Each visitor was furnished 
with a lantern, and our guide led the way. The entrance is a 
broad deep archway, which narrows at a distance of three 
hundred feet, and is closed by an iron gate made of crossbars, 
and secured by a lock. The guide unlocked the gate and we 
passed in. The gate closed behind us, and for many hours we 
were shut from the light of day. It is difficult to prevent a 
strange sensation from coming over one at this place. It is 
said that some have been so overcome at this point that they 
utterly refused to continue farther. 

AWED BY SUBTERRANEAN WONDERS. 

For seven miles we wandered about viewing the greatest 
known wonders beneath the earth's surface. As we went from 
place to place and viewed these caverns, we became more and 
more astonished, until we felt awed and overwhelmed with the 
majesty and grandeur of the scenes unfolded to our view! 
What tremendous energies must have been required to rend 
and tear these rocks, and plow out such subterranean caverns. 
When these convulsions took place we know not, but for ages, 
all has been silent here. For miles and miles along these 
caverns, death-like stillness broods over all ! We are com- 
pletely shut out from the noise and bustle of the busy world ; 
even the loudest thunders which roll across the heavens, does 
not in /ade the quiet of these deep vaults. 

T H £ ROTUNDA. 

For about fifty yards from the iron gate where we enter, our 
way lies under a low ceiling. This is called the Narrows. 
Beyond this the way grows wider and the ceilings higher, 
when suddenly the roof lifts above our heads, and we are in 
the Rotunda. This is a large circular room, with high- ceiling. 
Its vastness, the deep silence which reigned around us, the 
brilliancy of the illuminations here made by the guide, all 
impressed .our minds with a feeling of astonishment. 

But a little distance from the Rotunda, is what is usually 
denominated the Bat Rooms, so called from the myriads of 
bats that congregate on the walls and ceilings. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 635 

THE METHODIST CHURCH. 

Continuing along the Main Cave, we came to what is called 
the Methodist Church. This is about eighty feet across and 
forty feet high. Here, many a sermon — often attended by 
music — has ben delivered from the rocky pulpit. How grand 
must have been the melody of song, the strains of music, and 
the tones of the Gospel as they echoed through these vaulted 
regions. 

New objects of interest meet us at every step as we go 
winding along the way. Silhouettes, made by the incrusta- 
tions of gypsum stained by the black oxide of Magnesia, seem 
to come out on the white limestone in almost an endless 
variety of figures. 

THE GIANT'S COFFIN. 

Along the side of one of the avenues is Giant's Coffin. Its 
singular shape resembles a mighty sarcophagus. It is a huge 
rock forty feet long and twenty feet wide, and stands upon an 
elevation of a few feet. 

In different portions of the cave, more than three hundred 
monuments have been erected by piling up stones. These are 
in honor of various individuals, noted institutions, and the 
several states of the Union. Each visitor is allowed to add a 
small stone to the institution or State which he or she may 
represent. To the monument for Ohio — my native State — and 
New York, where stands my Alma Mater, a stone was added 
by my own hand. Some of these monuments are piled up 
from floor to ceiling. 

In 1843, there was an attempt made to establish a Sanitar 
ium for consumptives in some of the avenues of the cave. 
Twelve cottages — two of stone and ten of wood — were 
erected and fifteen patients took up their abode in them. 
It was hoped that the salubrity of the atmosphere, its free- 
dom from changes dust, and noxious vapors, would be highly 
beneficial, but the experiment proved an utter failure, and it 
was soon abandoned. 

STRANGE ILLUSIONS IN STAR CHAMBER. 

This chamber is a hall from two hundred to five 
hundred feet long — according to the points at which it 



636 TEN YEARS' 1 TRAVEL 

is measured — about seventy feet wide at the floor, and narrow- 
ing to forty feet at the ceiling which rises to a height of sixty 
feet. The walls are light gray, while the ceiling is mostly 
coated with black gypsum, and studded with myriads of white 
spots, produced by sulphate of magnesia. The guide requested 
us to be seated on a long wooden bench. He then took our 
lamps and vanished behind a jutting rock, from which, by 
various manipulations, he produced the appearance of shadows 
and floating clouds upon the starry vault. The effect was 
extremely fine, and indeed it seemed as though the vault had 
been lifted, and that we were looking up into the starry 
heavens. The guide then said "Good night, 1 will see you 
again in the morning, 1 ' and with the lights he plunged into a 
wild gorge and we were left in total darkness ! The pall of 
blackness that settled over us could almost be felt ! Not even 
a struggling ray of light was left to penetrate the gloom. 

While waiting for the return of morning and of the guide, 
we could only measure time by the beating of our hearts. At 
length the dark silence was broken by cock-crowing and the 
appearance of a faint glimering light in the distance, which 
resembled the first rays of dawn. The light then increased 
in volume until it tinged the tips of the rocks, giving them 
the appearance of distant hill-tops. The horizon was soon lit 
up by the rising sun, when suddenly the guide appeared with 
his cluster of lamps and the sun was up. The starlight, moon- 
light, storm-clouds, midnight, cOck-crowing and day-dawn, 
made the illusion full of interest and amazement. 

G-OTHFC CHAPEL. 

Among the many places of interest to which we were intro- 
duced in our wanderings, is Gothic Chapel. The portal to 
this chapel is formed by the Pillars of Hercules, two enormous 
stalactites. Here our guide collected our lamps, and going on 
ahead, placed them among the arches of the chapel so as to 
produce a fine effect, and then invited us to enter. The roof 
of the room seems to rest on groups of stalagmitic columns. 
Some of these are immensely large and form Gothic arches, 
dividing the church into aisles. Some of them give the 
appearance of elaborate work of art and beautiful frescoing; 



AROUND THE WORLD. 637 

others resembling great pillars of stone, have not quite reached 
the ground, and remain suspended from the roof, while from 
the ground or rock beneath, rise stalagmites. Some of these 
have united and others are near together. When the stalactite 
and stalagmite unite, they are then denominated the "mighty- 
tite." The formation of these is' very slow, requiring centuries 
to develope their present dimensions. 

BRIDAL ALTAR. 

At one place in this chamber, a group of these pillars are 
arranged so as to form two Gothic arches, with smali stalactites 
hanging about them like drooping rosettes. This group is 
called the Bridal Altar. The marriage ceremony of seven 
couple has been performed at this unique altar. A runaway 
bride, who had promised her anxious mother that she would 
" never marry any man on the face of the earth" evaded the 
obligations of her promise by marying her lover before this 
altar, one hundred and ten feet under ground ! Here, love has 
sealed her promises by the most solemn vows, and before this 
altar, wrought out alone by the hand of Nature's Great Archi- 
tect, hearts have been plighted in perpetual union. 

Many grotesque curiosities are found along the avenue in 
which Gothic Chapel is situated. One styled the Old Arm 
Chair, is a very large stalagmite resembling the object for 
which it is named. Another singular formation is called the 
Elephant's Head. Other objects pointed out were Gateswood's 
Dining Table, Napoleon's Dome, Vulcan's Shop, and a place 
called the Lover's Leap. This is an immense dark abyss over 
which is a projecting crag. Next we were shown Lake 
Purity, so named because of the purity of its water. We were 
led on through narrow passages, up steps and then down, until 
we had passed amid some of the most impressive scenes. 
Lofty domes and deep pits, winding tunnels and yawning 
chasms, filled the mind with awe and wonder. 

SIDE SADDLE PIT. 

This is so named from the shape of -a projecting rock, which 
hangs over a yawning chasm. On this we took our stand and 
watched the blazing rolls of oiled paper which our guide 



638 TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 

dropped into the abyss. Down they went in a fiery spiral 
form, giving us a view of the corrugated sides of the pit, and 
finally lighting up the bottom, sixty-five feet below. The 
opening is about twenty-five feet across, and nearly over it is 
Minerva's Dome, thirty-five feet high. 

Descending a stairway, we entered the Labyrinth — a narrow 
winding passage — and after climbing a second stairway and 
going down a third, we reached an opening through which we 
peered into profound darkness. The monotonous sounds of 
dripping water, which falls from a vast height to a great depth, 
only intensified the gloom. The guide went further on and 
around an immense column of stone to a smaller opening, 
through which he thrust his blazing rolls of oiled paper, 
revealing indescribable wonders to our gaze. As the burning 
rolls went whirling down into the dark depths, the dizzy 
heights at which we were standing made us draw back in fear. 
The floor of this pit is about ninety feet below the window, 
and embraces an area of nearly an acre. A small pit opens to 
a body of water twelve feet deep. The vault overhead rises to 
a height of almost one hundred feet, making the altitude of 
this opening two hundred feet. The arch of this mighty 
chasm is known as Gorin's Dome. The walls are draped with 
immense stalagmitic formations resembling curtains bordered 
with rich and heavy fringes. 

THE BOTTOMLESS PIT. 

Retracing our way from the Labyrinth, we soon reached the 
famous abyss known as the Bottomlpss Pit. Into this pit 
there projects a tongue of rock twenty-seven feet, almost 
dividing the pit. A substantial bridge spans the gulf. Upon 
this bridge we took our stand, and leaning over the hand-rails 
we watched the blazing rolls as they descended into the mys- 
terious abyss about one hundred feet below. 

We might fill many more pages in describing other wonder- 
ful things we saw during our wanderings under ground, but 
these things must be viewed to be understood. I left the 
cave with the conviction that in four hours I had never seen 
more marvelous works of nature. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 639 



CHAPTER III. 

Continuing the Journey — Arrival at New Orleans — The 
Exposition Grounds — Exposition Buildings — Marvelous 
Exhibits — Illuminations. 

flp? ROM the Mammoth Cave I continued the journey to New 
■ : pi ( )rleans. One of the most important places on this route 
—^ is Nashville, Tennessee, situated on the Cumberland 
river. It is the capital of that state. The Capitol stands upon 
an eminence about two hundred' feet high. It is constructed 
of free stone and iron, at an expense of one and a half million 
dollars. From the train we saw the cemetery, where more than 
ten thousand tombstones mark the graves of those who lost 
their lives in the battles in and around the city, during the 
Rebellion. 

Soon after reaching Georgia, I realized that I had entered 
the Sunny South. On the. second morning, I arrived in the 
Gulf region, so noted for its vegetation. Everywhere orange 
groves and orange flowers were to be seen in abundance, and 
the fragrant wild honey suckle was in bloom. 

ARRIVAL AT JNEW ORLEANS. 

About eight o'clock a. m., I arrived in New Orleans, and the 
journey of one thousand miles was here ended. New Orleans 
is called the Creseut City, from its location. It is situated on 
the Mississippi River, one hundred miles from, its mouth, and 
occupies the banks for a space of six miles, on an outer and 
inner curve. The value of its exports and foreign commerce 
ranks second only to New York. It commands ten thousand 
miles of steamboat navigation, and is the natural port of one 
of the richest regions in the world. 



640 



TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



The Custom House is one of the largest buildings in 
America. It is built on ground lower than high water level, 
and is protected by levees, which extend hundreds of miles 
along both banks of the river. The city has eleven public 
parks and squares. The best quarter of the city is a delightful 
place, with broad streets shaded by trees. The houses are built 
with broad verandas and surrounded by gardens of flowers 
and trees. The climate may be termed delightful. 

EXPOSITION GROUNDS. 

On this visit the most of my time was spent at the Expo- 
sition. About one. hundred acres of the city park were set 
apart for Exposition purposes. The grounds extend about one 
half mile along the Mississippi, and is a delightful place — 
bright with evergreen trees and flowers in great variety. The 
meeting of the moss covered branches of giant oaks form a 
grand archway. Both in artistic and in natural decorations, 
the grounds are a place of unexcelled beauty. 

EXPOSITION BUILDINGS. 







THE 2XilI2T 3TTIL2DI1T3-. 

Near the center of the park stands the Main Building. It 
is thirteen hundred and seventv-eight feet long, and nine 
hundred and five feet wide. It covers thirty-three acres of 
ground, and is the largest ever erected. The roof is largely of 
glass, and affords an abundance of light. There are no parti- 
tions, and the interior is surrounded by wide and spacious 
galleries, twenty-three feet high, which are reached by twenty 
elevators and by flights of stairways. In the center of the 
building is the Music Hall, with a seating capacity for eleven 
thousand people, and a platform for six hundred musicians. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



641 



The machinery department occupies a space one thousand 
three hundred and seventy-eight feet in length, and three 
hundred feet in width. From the galleries more than two 
miles of shafting, running an almost endless variety of 
machine^, could be seen. 




G-OVES1TMS1TT BTJILZlIlTG-. 

The Government Building is eight hundred and eighty-five 
feet long and five hundred and sixty-five feet wide. Although 
much smaller than the Main Building, this is one of the 
largest exposition buildings ever erected. It was built espec- 
ially for the exhibits of the United States Government, and 
for State and Territorial Exhibits. Here the Post Office 
Department had on exhibit all the improvements in mail 
facilities, and arrangements to show the practical workings of 
the Postal System. The Treasury Department gavf an exhibit 
of various interests connected with that section of our National 
Government. The War and Navy Departments were repre- 




x 1 S E AET GALLEET. 

sented by their respective implements of warfare. The 
Interior Department, the United States Fishery Commission, 
Bureau of Agriculture and Bureau of Education, with many 
others, were represented in this building. 

8 



642 



TEN YEARS' TRAVEL 



The Art Gallery is two hundred and fifty feet long and one 
hundred feet wide. It is an elegant structure built of iron, 
and is fire proof. The collection was very rine, showing some 
of the best paintings, statuary and bronze figures. 




HOETICXTLTTTEAi 13! .A. ZL, X, . 




:m: :ei s: i c .a. 3*r btjildiitg-. 
The Horticultural Hall is six hundred feet long and one 
hundred and ninety-four feet wide. It is the largest conserv- 



ARUUXD THE WORLD. 



643 



atory in the world. A magnificent tower, ninety feet high, 
and roofed with glass, surmounts the center. Beneath this 
tower plays a grand fountain. Miles of fruits, an infinite 
variety of rare tropical and semi-tropical plants, flowers and 
shrubbery, were on exhibition. Exhibits from Mexico, Central 
America," the West Indies, and different states of the Union, 
were on display. 

The Mexican Building is of octagonal form, thirty-two 
feet across each side. Though small, it is of most exquisite 
design and of very costly workmanship. It is built of iron 
and glass. It was erected by the Mexican Government. A 
very extensive collection of minerals from Mexico were on 
exhibition here. 




l^TE2CIC^-lNr w'ua.TIOaTA.Xj IB-C7I-i_jJ=>X£TGr- 

The Mexican National Headquarters is a beautiful structure, 
erected by the Mexican Government. It contains offices for 
the various Mexican officials, for the different detachments of 
the Mexican force on duty at the Exposition, and quarters for 
the noted Mexican band. The building is three hundred feet 
long and one hundred and ninety feet wide. 

Several other very magnificent, buildings erected by corpor- 
ations or private individuals, occupied different parts of the 
ground. 



644 TEN YEARS 1 TRAVEL 

MARVELOUS EXHIBITS. 

This Exposition gave the best opportunity ever offered to 
see the productions and resources of the whole country. All 
the States and Territories except one were represented, while at 
the Centennial there were only twenty-two. The Government 
exhibits were the most complete ever made. A transparent 
globe, fifty feet in height, represented the various countries of 
the world, with their respective resources. 

The productions of the New England States were grouped 
together, showing their natural resources and historical collec- 
tions. The Middle States also, had their exhibits grouped 
together, making a grand display of their abundant resources. 
The exhibits from the Great Northwest were very marvelous. 
Extending across one end of the Government Building, were 
arranged the productions of nine mineral States and Territories. 
This is thought to have been the greatest collection of mineral 
specimens the world has ever witnessed. The group of exhibits 
from the Southern States was very fine, and their productions 
of cotton and various fruits, stood in rivalry with the minerals 
of more northern sections of our great country. 

The mineral wealth of California was represented by two 
thousand rare and beautiful specimens, arranged.in glass cases. 
These specimens of gold, silver, copper, and other choice min- 
erals on exhibition, were valued at ten thousand dollars. A 
cube, having an altitude of more than fourteen feet, represented 
the quantity of gold taken from the mines of California. The 
value of this is estimated at one billion, one hundred and 
sixty million dollars. The yield of the silver mines was also 
represented by a cube with an altitude of more than twelve 
feet. The production of these mines is valued at twenty-six 
million dollars. More than two thousand botanic specimens 
and flowers from California, were on exhibition. A section from 
one of the Big Trees was among the collections from California. 
This was fifty-four feet in circumference, with bark two feet 
thick, and was said to have been taken from the trunk ninety- 
six feet from the base. It is said that the height of this tree 
was three hundred and eight feet, and its computed age thirty- 
seven hundred years. It required five men twenty-five days, 
boring with long pump augers, to fell it. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 645 

It was not the intrinsic value alone of the thousands of arti- 
cles on exhibition that made a general view of the exhibits so 
exceedingly fine, but the artistic skill with which they were 
grouped and arranged. There were houses, statues, monuments 
and pavilions, constructed from the products on exhibition. 

One of the grand features of the exhibition was the illumin- 
ation at night. There were eight hundred arc lights and four 
thousand Edison lights in the Main Building. On the grounds 
on an ornamental stand, above one hundred feet in height, 
twelve lamps were placed, whose illuminating power combined, 
was equal to one hundred thousand candles. In front of five of 
the entrances were placed lights of thirty-six thousand candle 
power. In five sections of the ground, were towers one hun- 
dred and twenty-five feet in height, each lighted by ten 
standard arc lights. The general view of the grounds with 
their magnificent buildings, was imposing by day, but the 
scene at night was by far more enchanting,, 

Each week a grand display of fire works was given, in which 
figures of animals and other objects were represented in life- 
like motion. 

As from day to day I viewed the vast collections, and con- 
sidered the great expenditure of time and money to make this 
the crowning event of the age, I truly felt that America, with 
her resources and possibilities, stands second to no country in 
the world. With memory laden with stores of my country's 
greatness, I hastened home to add the closing chapters of this 
work. And now the end is reached, I humbly acknowledge a 
sense of deep gratitude to a kind Providence for upholding 
me during these years of -long journeyings; for directing me 
to the means whereby my cherished hopes of giving this book 
to the world have been realized, and for the pure and happy 
influences cast about me during its publication, and now I 
bid the reader a friendly adieu. 



INDEX. 



Abana, 213. 

Abdul Aziz, 264, 269. 

Abraham, 130, 134, 171. 

Absalom, 154. 

Abo, 592. 

Abbey, Calder, 623. 

Abbey, Furness, 623. 

Abbey, Westminster, 612. 

Acacia Trees, 355. 

Achan, 172. 

Aconcagua, 477. 

Acropolis, 253, 257. 

Adriatic Sea, 92, 110, 87. 

Agra, 382, 

A nab, 187,188. 

Ajalon, 118. 

Akbar, 373, 374, 383, 385. 

Ala-oodeen, Gate of, 395. 

Albatross, 475, 476. 

Alexis, Grand Duke, 253. 

Alexander, 70, 275, 407, 433, 598. 

Alexandria, 110, 275, 279, 280, 282, 283. 

Ailahabad, 313, 418. 

Alps, 15, 67. 

Amazon, 497. 

America, 260, 448. 

Annunciation, Church of, 190. 

Ants, of Australia 466. 

Antelope. 373. 

Anthon, 98. 

Antwerp, 63. 

Apis, 325: Mummies of 326. 

Apollo, 245. 

Apostles, Bones of, 77. 

Apostles, Statues and Medallions of, 78. 

Apennines, 18. 

Apennines, Brigands of, 24. 

Appian Way, 21. 

Arab Costumes, 209. 

Arab Encampment, 207. 

Arabs, 204, 206. 

Arabs Setting up Tents, 208. 

Arch of Napoleon, 47. 

Archipelago, 94, 438, 464, 465. 

Archer Fish. 378. 

Areopagus. 255. 

Arcquipa, 480. 

Arica, 479, 480. 

Aramathea, 117. 

Ark of the Covenent, 119, 182, 183. 

Arno, River, 73. 

Art Gallery, 14, 74, 91, 102, 109. 

Assemblage at Delhi, 414. 

Aspasia, 549. 

Atahualpa, 489, 500. 

Athens, 252—260. 



Atchison, 566. 
Altar of Roses, 365. 
Australia, 464 — 474. 
Avon, Stratiord upon, 45, 46 

Baalbec, 229—232. 

Balta, Assassination of, 490. 

Baltic Sea. 590. 

Bambino, 82. 

Bamboo, 354. 

Banana Tree, 355. 

Banyan Tree, 341, 355, 432. 433. 

Baptism at Florence, 74. 

Barclay, Dr. 142, 149. 

Barnabas. Apostle, 244. 

Barada, River, 228, 415. 

Barradurree, 348 

Basilicas, 75, 80, 167. 

Bashan, 201, 202. 

Batavia, 435 — 453. 

Bazaars, 293. 

Bhopal, 341. 

Bhurtpore, 366. 

Beduoin, 209. 

Begum, Queen of Bhopal, 341, 397. 

Behar, 228. 

Beirut, 234, 235. 

Renares, 418—420. 

Berdecheve, 100. 

Berlin, 7, 101. 

Betel Nut, 400, 434. 

Bethesda, 145. 146. 

Bethany, 159. 

Bethabara, 174. 

Bethel, 181. 

Bethlehem, 162—170.. 

Bethsaida, 200. 

Bible, Harmony of the Bands, .240, 241. 

Birds, Tropical, 376, 377. 

Black Rod, 618. 

Black Sea, 95. 

Boats, of Hider Ali, 354. 

Bois de Bologne, 47. 

Bologna, 87. 

Bombay, 331. 

Bone from Catacombs, 23. 

Bones of the Apostles, 77. 

Borromeo, of Milan. 107. 

Bosphorus, 95, 263, 266. 

Boulak, 306, 311, 326. 

Booth, J. Wilkes, Relics of 575. 

Boleyn, Anne, beheaded, 616. 

Brahma, 332. 

Brahmins, 419. 

Bremen, 589. 

Bread TYu.it Tree, 434. 



648 



INDEX. 



Bridge of Sighs, 89. 

Bridge in Andes, the Highest, 49-1. 

Brigands, 93. 

Bristol, 45. 

Brigham "> oung, 559. 

Bronze Horses, 88. 

Burlingame, 535. 

Bunhill Fields, 621. 

Buddhist, 431, 529. 

Buitenzorg, 442. 

Bull Fights, 489. 

Bungalow, 336. 

Burial at eea, 433. 

Byron, 94. 

Byzantium, 263. 

Cabbage Tree, 460 

Caesar, 86. 

Caesarium. 281. 

Cafes, 224, 226. 

Cairo, 110, 291, 293, 303, Ui, 324. 

California, 534, 554, 640. 

Calais, 64. 

Calixtus. St., 22. 

Clock, a Wonderful, 590. 

Calvarv, 130. 

Callao,'480, 482, 505. 

Calcutta, 421—432 

Camels. 203, 375. 

Campagna, 24. 

Cam[ o Santa, 72. 

Calms of Cancer, 508, 5*6. 

Cana, 192. 

Candia, 110. 

Candle Nut, 517. 

Capernaum, 199, 200, 210. 

Carnival, 4S7. 

Capture bv Arabs, 204. 

Castor Oil* Tree, 518. 

Carey, Wm., 421. 

Caravan, 202. 

Carob Tree, 288, 289. 

Capitol at Washington, 572. 

Castle, Edmburg, 40. 

Caste, 336. 

• ashmere, 405, 414. 

Catacomb. 22, 23, 98. 

Cawnpore, 346, 418. 

Ced'ir Keys, 581 

Cemeterv, 54, 265, 281. 

Cenis, Mt., 36, 106. 

C sterns, 136. 

Cities, Abandoned, 215. 

Chancellor, Lord, 618. 

Charleston, 578. 

Charlemagne, 13. 

Chauri, 340,375. 

''heetah, 341, 370—373. 

C leops, 277, 319— 321. 

Cheppatie, 403. 

Cherith, 172. 

Chicla, 493, 495, 497. 

v hili. 475—180. 

Chinese, 434. 

Chinaman. Wealthy, 448, 464, 456. 

Cholera, 2 '8, 246, 410. 

Chorazin, 200. 

Chosica, 493. 

Christian Martyrs, 84, 301. 

Chrvsopolis, 265. 

Ch utter Munzel, 348. 

Cleopatra's Needles, 280. 

Clive, Lord, 428. 

Clyde River, 5. 

Cobra, 379, 381. 



Clove Tree, 445. 
Cocoa Tree, 352. 
Cocoa-nui Palm, ?49— 352. 
Colosseum, 83. 
Cologne, Cathedral of, 62. 
Colossus of Rhodes, 245. 
Columbus' Monument, 72. 
Communists of Paris, 38. 
Coan, Bishop, 527. 
Commons, House of, 617. 
Confession Boxes, 91. 
Constantine the Great, 19, 80. 
Constantinople, 94, 263, 266. 
Copenhagen, 58. 
Copts, 308. 
Corinto, 507. 
Cordilleras, 477, 479. 
Corfu, 93. 
Corpus Christi, 10. 
Cossacks, 600. 
Costume, Arab, 209. 
Costume, Greek, 254. 
Costume, Turkish, 272. 
Costume of Alexandria, 279. 
Costume, Wedding, 307. 
Costume of Cairo, 310. 
Costume of Java, 436, 439. ■. 
Costume, Peruvian, 484. 
Costume, Hawaiian, 520. 
Cook, Captain, 526. 
Coronation at Moscow, 596. 
Coronation, Fetes of, 593, 595. 
Cotton Culture, 363. 
Courting in India, 484. 
Cow, Sacred, of India, 375. 
Crane, Silver-headed, 376. 
Crater of Vesuvius, 30. 
Cremation. 103. 
Crete, or Candia, 110. 
Crocodiles, Garrison of, 378. 
Cronstadt, 58. 

Cross seen by Constantine, 19. 
Crowns, Austrian, 13. 
Crowns, British, 616. 
Crowns, Russian, 597. 
Crucifixion, Passion Play. 448. 
Cyprus, Island of, 244. 
Custom House, 640. 
Cyclones, 566. 
Czar. 595—598. 
Czarina, 595 — 598. 

Dahabeehs, Nile Boats, 311. 
Damascus, 213. 
Danube, 8. 
Darwin, Port, 465. 
Date Line. 476. 
Date Pa m. 289, 352. 
David, 132, 134, 168. 170. 
David, Tower of, 120. 
David, Tomb of, 14S. 
Dead Sea, 175, 176. 
Deborah, 188. 

Deer Hunting in India, 373. 
Delhi, 392—396. 
Delta, 287. 
Dennison, Wm., 444. 
Dervishes. 294. 
Desert, 321, 327, 556. 
Desolation in Bashan, 210. 
Devil Fish, 521. 
Diamond, Orloff, 59S. 
Diana, 249, 251 
Digby, Lady, 225. 
Divan. 220. 



INDEX. 



649 



Divorce, 237, 271. 

Djerid, 190. 

Docks, Callao, 481. 

Dolgorouki, Princess, 70. 

Dolma Bagtche, 270. 

Domestic Habits, 236—240. 

Domestic Habits in Syria, 233. 

Dolphin, 512. 

Donkey, Egyptian, 279. 

Dothan, 188. 

Dowlah Surajah, 428. 

Dragoman, 206—208. 

Drowning, Escape from, 408, 462. 

Drosky, 60. 

Drunkard, Fate of, 4, 59. 

Durbar, for Prince of Wales, 340. 

Durjah, Gorgeous Tomb, 385. 

Dublin, 39. 

Dye Stuffs, India, 364. 

Easter at Paris, 55. 
Easter in Holy Land, 175. 
Easter in Peru, 487. 
Earthquake in Peru, 503. 
Erce Homo, 143. 
Eclipse, 419. 
Eden, 426, 432. 
Edinburg, 40. 
Editor and Wife, 19. 
Effendi, 235. 
Egg Festival, 487. 
Egypt, 274—327. 
Elbe River, 7. 
Elephants, 374. 
Elephanta, Cave of, 332. 
Elijah, 172. 
Elisha, 172. 
Elsinore, 57. 

Electrical Exhibition , 628. 
Emanuel.Victor, 17, 75, 82. 
Emu, 472. 
Engannin, 188. 
Engineering, 335. 
Ephesus, 247—251. 
Equator, 436, 507. 
Esdraelon, 188. 
Eucalyptus, 469, 483. 
Eugenie, Empress, 313. 
Executive Mansion, 574. 
Exposition, Vienna, 62. 
Exposition, New Orleans, 640. 

Fakir, 410—412, 426. 
Fashion, 440. 
Felicity, Gate of, 269. 
Feodosia, 98. 
Festival, a Royal, 109. 
Fever, Roman, 24, 494. 
Finland, 592. 
Fire Tree, 460. 
Florida, 579. 
Flood in India, 378. 
Florence, 18, 73. 
Flowers, 234, 315, 364. 
Flying Fish, 330. 
Food, 338, 359. 
Forum, Roman, 86 
Fountain of the Virgin, 147. 
Fountain of Solomon's Pools, 169. 
Fountain of Mary, 190 
Franklin Institute, 570. 
Fox, Geo, Place of Burial, 621. 
Franklin, Bust of, 313. 
Frederick the Great, 101, 102. 
Friday, Moslem Prayers, 394. 
Fridays, Two in One Week, 476. 
82 



Free Cities, 588. 
Funerals in Egypt, 306. 
Funerals in India, 345. 
Funerals in Peru, 501, 502. 

Galata, 263. 

Gallery, Art, 14, 74. 

Galileo, 72, 74. 

Galilee, 194—198. 

Ganges, Throwing Children in, 343—353 

Ganges, Delta of, 369. 

Ganges, Temples on, 418—421. 

Ganges, Great Historic River, 429 — 430. 

Gate, Golden, 140, 141. 

Gehanna, 162. 

Geneva, 68. 

Genevieve, Saint, 52. 

Genoa, 70. 

Gennaro, 27. 

Gethsemane, 153. 

Garfield, 540, 571. 

Ghauts, 331, 335. 

Gihon, 145. 

Glaciers, 105, 106. 

Glasgow, 5. 

Glonetta, Temple of, 14. 

Gold, Howdah of, 415. 

Gold, Discovery ot in California, 538. 

Gideon, 190. 

Goomtee River, 347. 

Goethe. 87. 

Gondolas of Venice, 16. 

Gobelin's Cloth, 56. 

Gum Trees, 355. 

Guillotine at Paris, 49. 

Guinea, New, Island of, 446. 

Gutierrez Brothers, 490. 

Green Flag, 300. 

Gray, Lady Jane, beheaded, 616. 

Grecian Islands, 92, 93. 

Greece, 252. 

Greece, Isles of, 262. 

Greek Parliament, 255. 

Halemaumau, 526. 

Harems, 235—274. 

Harems, Smoking in, 400. 

Harems, Emperor's in Java, 458. 

Harems, Number of Women in, 529, 

Hackree, Carriage in India, 399. 

Havelock, General, 346. 

Hamlet, Scene of, 58. 

Hawk and Hoop, 2S6. 

Hamburg, 589. 

Herculaneum, 35. 

Hellespont, 94. 

Heber, Bishop, 384. 

Hezekiah. Pool of, 144. 

Heliopolis or Baalbec, 231. 

Heliopolis in Egypt, 317. 

Halena, Empress, 166, 

Hebron, 170. 

Henry, Patrick, 578. 

Heaven, through the Ganges, 343. 

Herod, Colonade of, 187. 

Himalayas, 413. 

Holy of Holies, Site of, 134. 

Hospital at Vienna, 9. 

Horn, Golden, 95,263. 

Holyrood, Palace, 42. 

Houris of the Moslem, 238. 

Houses, Oriental, 277—279. 

Houses, Egyptian, 288. 

Houses, Plan of, 312. 

Howdah, 340, 415. 

Hoshungabad, 341, 342. 



650 



INDEX. 



Hook swinging, 346. 
Hospitality in Java, 451. 
Horse Racing, Melbourne, 471. 
Honolulu, 517, 524. 
Hotel, Palace, 533. 
Home, Return to, 569. 
Hull. 610. 

Human Sacrifice, 343. 
Hunt, Hon. Wm., 595. 
Hunting, Cheetah, 372. 
Huleh, 201. 
Hugo, Victor, 54. 
Hydaspes, 407. 

Ibraham Bey, 304. 

Ibis, 376. 

Icebergs, 2. 

Icon, 596. 

Ico.iastis, Treasures of, 602. 

Imambarra, Hoosian Abab,348. 

Incas, 483. 

Iucas, Last King of, 490. 

Incas, Roads of, 452. 

Incas, Sacred River of, 493. 

India, 331—431. 

Ireland, 5, 39. 

Iron and Steel Works. 624. 

Ishmael Pasha, 277, 2S2, 237— 291, 309-311. 

Islands, Volcanic, 464. 

Indian Ocean, 433. 

Inquisition, Implements of, 89. 

Intolerance, Religious, 126. 

Intoxicating Beverages, 255, 425, 446. 

Indore, 336. 

Invalades hotel at Paris. 52. 

Jacksonville, 580. 
Jacob, dream of, 134. 
Jacob, well of, 184. 
Jacob, bridge of, 201. 
Java, 430—460. 
James VI, of Scotland, 41. 
Jehau, Shah, 335-337. 
Jeypore, 382 
Jessamine, 365. 
Jellyfish, 330. 
, Jeddah, 329. 
Jezebel, 188. 
Jesreel, 187- 
Jenin, 188. 
Jerusalem, 119—144. 
Jews, wailing place of, 137. 
Jews, prayers of, 139. 
Jericho, 172. 
Joppa, 113. 
Joan d' Arc, 57. 
Jo'^i the Baotist, 221. 
John, St., 245, 247, 251. 
Jordan river, 171, 174, 175, 201. 
Joseph, husband of Mary, 157. 
Joseph, Patriarch, 184, 318. 
Jitomer, 100. 
Judas, Iscariot, 162 
Justin Martvr, 166 
Jupiter, Temple of, 231. 
Judea, 242. 

Justinian. Emperor, 264. 
Jummoo, 407 — 403. 
Jumna, 418. 

Kali, 346, 426. 
Kaugiroo, 472. 
Kalakana, 522, 523. 
Kapiolana, 522, 523. 
Kealakehaa, 526. 



Kedron, 153. 

Kilauea, 526. 

Kingkab, gold cloth, 341. 

Kief, 97. 

Knox, John, 42. 

Kristna, 367. 

Kremlin, 593, 599, 600, 602. 

Korapan, 444. 

Koh-i-noor, 406, 617. 

Koran, 297—298. 

Lagoons, bridge of, 16. 

Lazarus, tomb of, 159 — 160. 

Last supper, 149. 

Lahore, 406, 413. 

Lalla Lookh, 406. 

Lapis Lazuli, 606. 

Lake Region, Eng., 623. 

Lectures on Temperance, 622. 

Lent, 55, 266. 

Lebanon, Mt., 234. 

Ledo, 110. 

Leipsic, 103. 

Leandor, 94. 

Lesbos, 94, 262. 

Leaning Tower, 72. 

Leghorn, 72. 

Leith, 6. 

London, 610—619. 

Livingston's Tomb, 614. 

Lords, House of, 617. 

Lowell, Jas. Russel, 617. 

Lodore, Falls of, 623. 

Lotus, the sacred lily, 315. 

Louvre, 49. 

Louisville Exposition, 568. 

Los Angelos, 539. 

Lizards, in Java, 459. • 

Lizards Point, 586. 

Lima, 483. 

Lily, Victoria Regia, 534. 

Lincoln, place of assassination, 575. 

Liffey River, 39. 

Light House, 64, 65. 

Light House at Port Said, 112. 

Linden, Uuter Den, 101. 

Lyons, 69. 

Lyell, Sir Charles, 106. 

Lyell, Funeral of, 614. 

Lydda, 118. 

Lytton, 415, 416. 

Lyre Bird, 473. 

Luxembourg, Palace of, 49. 

Lucknow, 347. 

Lubeck, 589, 590. 

Madaleine, Church of, 53. 
Mary Queen of Scots, 42. 
Mammoth Cave, 632. 
Mammoth Cave, Rotunda, 634. 
Mammoth Cave, Methudist Church, 635. 
Mammoth Cave, Giant's Coffin, 635. 
Mammoth Cave, Star Chamber, 935, 
Mammoth Cave, G-othic Chapel, 636. 
Mammoth Cave, Bridal Altar, 637. 
Mammoth Cave, Side Saddle Pit, 637. 
Mammoth Cavj, Bottomless Pit, 638. 
Monastery, Furness, 623. 
Maximilian, Tomb of, 12. 
Marriage, in New Guinea, 466. 
Marriage, in Russia, 608. 
Marriage, in India, 340, 399. 
Marriage, in Egypt, 308. 
Marmora, Sea of, 95.. 
Madonna, at Naples, 27. 



INDEX. 



651 



Marseilles, 69. 
Mamenine Prisons, 83. 
Martyrs, in Collosseum, 84 
Martyrs, in Rome, 301. 
Mark, Saint, 88. 
Mary's Tomb. 153. 
Machpelah, Cave, 164, 170. 
Manger of Jesus, 167. 
Maggiore, 167 
Mamre, Plain of, 170. 
Magdala, '200. 
Mars' Hill, 255, 256. 
Martel, Charles, 299. 
Mamelukes, 304, 305. 
Mango Tree, 356. 
Maharajah, of Bhurtpore, 366. 
Maharajah, of Holkar, 336. 
Mahmoud and Idol, 407. 
Mohammedans in India, 431. 
Mohammedans in Java, 453. 
Malay Servants, 436. 
Madura, Island, 438. 
Manta, Spanish, 484. 
Mamo, Bird, 522. 
Maui, Island of, 526. 
Marble Canyon, 561. 
Marks, German Coin, 588. 
Malachito, Mines of, 607. 
Mercantile Institute, 559. 
Museum, British, 612 
Mediterranean Sea, 69. 
Mehemit Ali, 304. 
Memphis, 324, 325. 
Menagerie, 369. 
Metropolite, 601. 
Melbourne, 467—472. 
Meiggs, Henry, 335, 483, 47S, 493. 
Mid-night Sun, Land of, 592. 
Mississipp River. 567, 582. 
Mariposa Grove, 540. 
Mint, San Francisco, 533. 
Mirage, 512 

Missions, Damascus, 221. 
Missions. Holy Land, 192, 234. 
Missions, Athens, 260. 
Missions, Egypt, 309. 
Missions, Hawaiian Islands, 527. 
Missions, India, 421. 
Millionaire, Java, 454. 
Misrecardes, 210. 
Milman Dean, 180. 
Milan, Cathedral of, 107. 
Missol nghi, 94. 
Miramar Castle, 16. 
Mont Blanc, 68, 105. 
Moscow, 593. 

Monument. Washington, 576. 
Mohurrum, 338. 
Mormon Tabernacle, 558. 
Moeul Palace. 394, 406. 
Mollendo, 480 
Mourning, 398. 
Mourners, 265. 
Mocha, 329 
Moriah, Mount, 130. 
Moahite Stone, 150. 
Mosque at Hebron, 170. 
Mosque at Damascus, 221. 
Mosque of Mehemit Ali, 304. 
Mosque of St. Sophia, 263. 
Mosque at Agra, 384. 
Mosque at Delhi, 394. 
Moslem Pilgrims, 274, 293, 295. 
Moslem Weddings, 307. 
Moses, Island of Rhoda, 316. 
Monsoons, 407. 



Mons Meg, Cannon, 42. 
Mutiny in India, 346, 403. 
M ummies, 306, 326. 
Muezzin, 248. 
Muller George, 45. 

Nativity, Church of, 166. 

Napoleon at Moscow, 602. 

Napoleon in Egypt, 305, 319. 

Napoleon II, Vienna, 14. 

Napoleon, Coronation Robes, Paris, 51. 

Naples, 25, 

Nablus, 184. 

Naboth, 187. 

Nazareth, 190—192. 

Nabob, 397. 

National Observatory, D. C, 576. 

National Cemetery, 576. 

Nelson, Lord, 275. 

Nebo, 175. 

Nemesis, 86. 

Neem Tree, 356. 

Nerbudda River, 335. 

Nebras-ka, 363. 

N ew Orleans, 582- 

Nilometer, 316. 

Nile, 283—288. 

Nicaragua, 507. 

Nice, 69. 

Noor Mahal, 385—391. 

Notre Dame, 50. 

Nutmeg, 445. 

Nizam, 414. 

Obelisk, 280. 

Observatory at Melbourne, 471. 

Oderburg, 7. 

Odessa, 97. 

Ogden, 557. 

Omaha, 565. 

Omar, Mosque of, 132. 

Olga, Queen of Greece, 253. 

Olivet, 157—161. 

Oo Bird, 522. 

On, 317. 

Orman, 131. 

Opium in India, 362. 

Opera House, Paris, 13. 

Osiris, 325. 

Oukar Bird, India, 376. 

Pardo, Assassination of, 500. 
Parliament, British, 617. 
Paris, 38, 47, 105. 
Pantheon, Rome, 81. 
Pantheon, Paris, 52. 
Patmos. Isle of, 245. 
Parthenon, Athens, 258. 
Papyress, 316. 
Palanquin, 332. 
Parsee, 332. 

Palm Trees, 348, 349, 352. 
Palm, Travelers', 460. 
Pagoda, Golden, 419. 
Papandayang, Volcano, 454. 
Passion Play, 488. 
Penn, Bl-centennial, 570. 
Peru, 481—504. 
Pearls, 465, 341. 
Penang, 433. 
Peons, 341. 
Petra, 335. 
Pera, 95, 

Peacock, India, 376. 
Peacock, White, 313. 
Pet'rosky Park, Moscow, 595. 



652 



INDEX. 



Peter's, St., Rome, 76. 

Pere la Chase, 54. 

Phoenix Park, 39. 

Pharp^r, 212. 

Pharos Light-house, 276. 

Pharaoh, 326. 

Plymouth, 627. 

Place de la Concorde, 48. 

Pillar, Ancient Iron, Delhi, 395. 

Pisonia Alba, Cabbage Tree, 460. 

Pizarro, 485, 490, 500. 

Pibeseth, 327. 

Pithom, 327. 

Pilgrims for Mecca, 274. 

Pilgrims, Russian, 98. 

Pilgrims from Mecca,, 293. 

Pilgrims to Mecca, 305. 

Piraeus, 252. 

Pillars ot Proof, 336. 

Pisa, 72. 

Polland, 61. 

Pompey's Pillar, 281. 

Poi, 520. 

Pope, 17, 79. 

Pompei, 33. 

Pompey, Statue of, 86. 

Potsdam, 102. 

Polygamy, 238, 559. 

Polvcarp, 249. 

Poms, 407. 

Prairie Dog City, 564. 

Protestants, 529. 

Propvlaea, Athens, 258. 

Prodigol Son, 289. 

Priesthood, 431. 

Prado, General, 486. 

Prater, 14 

Punka, 336. 

Puniab, 406. 

Puna, 480. 

Pulaski, 579. 

Pyramid, 318-322. 

Railway Over Mont Cenis, 37. 

Railway up the Andes, 495. 

Raphael's Tomb, 82. 

Rachel's Tomb, 163. 

Ramleh, 116. 

Ramdum, 234. 

Ramadan, 266. 

Rameses, 325 — 327. 

Ramrod Tree, 355. 

Rajpoot, 382. 

Ravee River, 407. 

Residency at Lucknow, 34 7. 

Reptiles in India, 379. 

Reign of Terror, 49. 

Red Sea, 328, 329. 

Red Tape, 59. 

Rizzio, 42. 

Rice Culture, 359—361. 

Rimac River, 482. 

Richmond, 577. 

Rhoda, 316. 

Rhodes, 245. 

Rhine, 62. 

Rhone, 68. 

Rome, 19, 23, 75. • 

Roads in India, 356. 

Rosa Santa, 486. 

Rouen, 57. 

Rosenberg, Castle of, 58. 

Rock, the Sacred, 134. 

Roses, Attar of, 365. 

Rock Temples, 335. 



Robinson, 356. 

Rocky Mountains, 562, 563. 

Russia, 57—61, 97—10) , 593—609. 

Sappho, 94. 

Samos, 94, 246. 

Sabbaths at Berlin, 101. 

Saxony, 102. 

Savoy, 105. 

Said, Port, 111. 

Samuel's Birthplace, 117. 

Samaria, 185 — 187. 

Saul, 190. 

Safed, 200. 

Saladm, 226, 291. 

Sandals, 235, 236. 

Salamas, 244. 

Sand Storm, 326, 556. 

Sacrifice, 343—345, 422-426. 

Sago, 434. 

Samarang, 454. 

San dago, 478, 479. 

San Bartolome, 494. 

San Francisco, 514, 530, 532, 553, 554. 

Sepoy, 403. 

Servants, India, 331 ,336. 

Sealkote, 408, 412. 

Serampore, 421. 

San Joaquin, 539. 

San Jose, 539. 

Santa Barbara. 540. 

Sacramento, 554. 

Salt Lake City, 557 — 560. 

Savannah, 579. 

Salt Mine, 624, 625. 

Scutari, 265. 

Scroll. Ancient, 185. 

Scopus, Mount. 179. 

Schon Brunn, 14. 

Scripture, Authenticity of, 240. 

Selim, 385. 

Secundra, 384. 

Serapeum. 281. 

Seven Wonders, 245, 276, 277. 

Seraglio, 26S, 269. 

Seven Churches, 247. 

Sennachen 0,261. 

Sepulcher, 127—130. 

Seine, 48. 

Sisera, 188. 

Sirocco, 261. 

Sirius, 286. 

Sinai, 328, 

Sikhs, 404, 431. 

Siva, 332. 

Simla, 413, 414. 

Singapore, 434. 435. 

Sierra Nevadas, 477. 554 — 556. 

SiJoam, 146. 

Smith, Joseph, 559. 

Smyrna, 248, 249. 

Snow Shoes, 544. 

Snow Sheds, 556. 

Southey, 623. 

Sourabaya. 462. 

Soap Tree, 460. 

Solo, 457. 

Solomon, 229, 416. 

Sobiesk, John, King of Poland, 300. 

Sostraius, 276. 

Sodom, 170, 177. 

Spirit, Holy, 149. 

Sphinx. 323, 324. 
. St Paul, Apostle, 217. 
i St. Paul's, 614. 



Jill 971Q£n 



INDEX. 



653 



Stanley, Dean, 614. 

St Isaac. 606. 

St. Luke, 602. 

St. Valedemar, 601. 

St. Louis, 567. 

St. Petersburg, 605. 

Stockaolm, 590,591. 

etockton, Cal., 639. 

Susa, 36 

Suez, 327. 

Suez Canal, 111, 112. 

Sultan, 264, 267, 270. 

Sunset at Sea, 328, 512, 5S6, 587. 

Sunderbund, 369. 

Sumnath, 407. 

Sultana, 341. 

Sutlej River, 413. 

Surnbawa, 464. 

Sutler, General, 538. 

Stylurs, 316. 

Straight, Street Called, 218. 

Stambaul, 95, 263. 

Stratford, 46. 

Stephen's, St., Cathedral 11, Gate 153. 

Sweden, 590. 

Syria, Domestic Habits of, 233. 

Syria, Island of, 260. 

Sydney, 466, 467, 472, 474. 

Tartars, 96—98. 

Tarantass, 100. 

Tarbouch or Fez, 209. 

Taro, 520. 

Taylor, John, Mormon President, 559. 

Tando, 450. 

Taj Mahal, 385. 

Tattooing, 233, 311. 

Tadmor or Palmyra, 229. 

Tea Estate in Java, 445—448. 

Tea Plant, 446. 

Teeth in Java, 439. 

Tea Culture in India, 364. 

Tewfic, Khedive of Egypt, 295. 

Temple of the Sun, Peru, 491. 

Thebez, 188. 

Theseus, Temple of, 258. 

Throne Mogul, 394. 

Thousand Isles, 466. 

Thames, 610. 

Titecaca, 479. 

Titus, Arch of, 85. 

Tirzah, 188. 

Tibereas, 199. 

Tomb of Napolean, 52. 



Tomb of David, 148. 

Tomboro, Volcano, 464. 

Tangore, Princess, 414, 

Trade Winds, 508. 

Trieste, 92 

Tropic of Cancer, 516. 

Troitsa, 604. 

Tunnels, Sixty in Crossing the Andss in 

Peru, 494. 
Tumilat Valley, 327. 
Tuilleries, 49. 
Turin, 106. 

Umritsur, 404 — 405. 
University in Athens, 253. 
Upas Tree, in Java, 462. 

Valparaiso, 476 — 477. 

Vasanti, Goddess of Spring, 372. 

Vatican, 78. 

Venice, 16, 87, 109. 

Vendome Column, 49. 

Versailles, 56. 

Vesuveus, 26 — 32. 

Viceroy, Lord Lytton, 415—416. 

Wailing Place of the Jews, 137. 
Warsaw, 61 
Walking Leaf, 442. 
j Washington, 571 — 576. 
Wateree, War Steamer. 480. 
Wesley, John, Burial Place of, 621. 
Weddings, Egyptian, 307—308. 
Weddings, Russian, 99. 
West Milton, 630. 
Whales, in the Pacific, 505. . 
White Haven, 623. 
Whispering Gallery, 615. 
Wheeler, Gen., at Cavvnpore, 346 — 347. 
Wives in a Zenana, 400. 
Worship in the Greek Church, 607. 
Woolsack, 617. 
Winter Palace, St. Petersburg, 609. 

Xanthus, Steamer lor InrJia, 327 — 330. 

Yosemite Valley and Falls, 542. 

Zaleh, on the Lebanon Mountains, 233. 

Zagareet, 307. 

Zayat, 453. 

Zagazig, 327. 

Zenanas, 396—397. 

Zachariah, Tomb of, 156. 

Zion, 150. 



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